ARRIVAL AT ST. CATHERINA--AMERICAN PLUCK--THE FOUR BRAVE TOURISTS.
It having been decided by the Captain of our vessel, at the request
of many of the passengers, that we visit some port upon the coast of
Brazil, upon consulting the sailing directions of Lieut. Maury, it was
found that in order to do so it was necessary to first visit the coast
of Africa, to take advantage of the trade winds. The ship’s course was
therefore directed towards the Continent of Africa, at which portion
of our planet we arrived in good time; and ’twas not until we found
that the dust from that continent was accumulating upon our clothing
and other articles on ship board, that our Captain concluded we were
near enough to the African coast. Our good ship was, therefore, turned
around and the bow pointed towards South America. With a fair wind we
crossed the ocean again, and on the 20th of May sailed into the port of
St. Catherina and dropped anchor under the guns of the fortification
located on the summit of a hill near the town.
We found lying at anchor here the steamer “Senator,” on her way
to California, as well as two or three other vessels loaded with
passengers from the United States for the same destination. An incident
in which the passengers of these vessels took a very prominent part
occurred a few days previous to our arrival, and is worth relating, as
it illustrates the type of American character which constituted the
advance guard of the California pioneers, and proves that the Americans
will submit to no indignity from a foreign race, if they possess the
power and means of resenting it.
A young man, a passenger of one of the vessels, was assassinated by
a native, but for what reason was not known, although supposed to be
from jealousy. The Americans demanded the arrest and punishment of
the assassin, but no attention was paid to the demand, and no efforts
were made for the murderer’s arrest, since he had slain only an
“Americano.” It may be of some interest to those of the human family
who have adopted the great American Eagle as their emblem, to know
that at this period in their history--40 years ago--when iron clads
were unthought of and monitors unknown, this nation of people were not
held in very high esteem by the various governments and peoples of the
South American continent, for the reason that their ports were but
very seldom visited by our ships of war, only upon certain isolated
occasions, when the American sloop of war “St. Marys,” or some craft
of similar dimensions, would put into these Southern ports. For this
reason, they seemed to be impressed with the idea that, in comparison
with England, with the monster ships of war with which they were all
familiar, the United States were of little consequence and small
potatoes generally. As a consequence, a demand for the arrest for the
murderer of the young American was treated with contempt; but they were
dealing now with the passengers of three or four ships who were on
their way to California--a crowd of Americans who were determined to
have the culprit arrested and punished at all hazards. The Governor of
the province, beginning to be alarmed by their demonstrations, for they
had threatened to capture the fortress upon the hill and to bombard the
town, despatched messengers instantly to the Emperor at Rio Janeiro for
assistance, believing, no doubt, that it was the intention of these
vile “Americanos” to capture the entire country and annex it to the
United States. This idea arose from the fact, as we heard related,
that the passengers from one ship did actually enter the fortress and
unfolded to the breeze the stars and stripes from the flag-staff, and
some one, for fun or accident, had with a piece of charcoal put in an
additional star which, of course, represented Brazil. But peace was
soon restored; the Governor had the culprit arrested, and after a fair
trial he was shot in the presence of those who demanded his execution;
and in a few days the ships sailed upon their course for California
with passengers satisfied and contented.
We found, a short distance in the interior, a man with his family
from the State of Vermont, who had emigrated here to live in ease and
comfort upon the spontaneous productions of the soil, which consist of
oranges, bananas and other tropical fruits. He stated that he had been
induced to make his home in this tropical country by an acquaintance
who was a seafaring man, and had often visited this portion of the
earth. Through representations of the beauty of the country and the
little labor and exertion required to live in ease and comfort, he had
been persuaded into coming here.
“The first year was pleasant indeed,” said he; “and often when we were
conversing upon the pleasures of such a life free from toil and care,
we wondered why the greater portion of those who dwelt in the far
northern New England States, amidst the snows and rains of their severe
winters, toiling and striving for the necessaries of life, did not come
to this earthly paradise. These were our thoughts and feelings during
the first year; but, after a residence of three years in this beautiful
country, with its warm sunny skies and its luxuriant vegetation,
despite these advantages, we have been forced to the conclusion that,
although the natives of the country were adapted by nature to such
conditions of existence, an American never would be. Why, sir, I can
take more solid enjoyment and comfort in one year among the rugged
hills and rocks of old Vermont, where the maxim is work or starve, than
it would be possible to find here in a lifetime, and I intend returning
to that country again just as soon as opportunity offers.”
It was here at St. Catherina, also, that we saw for the first time in
our lives diamonds in their rough state when taken from the river beds,
and which, to all appearances, are ordinary quartz pebbles, such as
are often seen upon the sea-shore. In their original state when first
formed in nature’s subterranean laboratory, they are crystallized with
proper facets and angles; but being subsequently deposited in the beds
of running streams, in process of time are worn to a smooth surface by
friction amongst the gravel of the river. These gems possess but little
value until much time and considerable labor is expended in again
restoring the worn out facets and angles. So far as known they serve
but one purpose in their rough state, and that is to illustrate the
fact that although a man may be very careless in his style of dress,
paying no regard to the latest fashion and even with his top-coat in
rags, yet he may be a real nice sort of a man for all that; a gem of
the first water beneath a rough coating. Experience illustrates the
fact that this is often the case, and for this reason it would be as
well before driving the tramp from out the back yard to search beneath
his rags for the gem that may possibly be there, or for anything else
of value that may be concealed.
We saw, also, a specimen of the diamond miner, a few of them having
just arrived from the mines, hundreds of miles away to the West, in
the interior, to dispose of the diamonds to the merchants in the town.
One of them explained to us the manner of finding the valuable gem:
the process being similar, in some respects, to the methods adopted in
California in mining for gold in the river-beds. By the use of wing
dams, the stream is turned, and, after shovelling the sand and gravel
from the bed rock, search is then made for what are termed pot holes
in the hard bed rock, in the bottom of which is found the diamond, or
at least it should be there, but unfortunately this is not always the
case, as all miners can testify to with sorrow.
A few miles inland was the border of the great Brazilian forest that
we had often read of in our school-boy days, and which, at this point,
approaches to within a few miles of the coast. We were informed that
a few miles within this dark forest could be found a small lake about
two miles in circumference, and that it was filled with a great variety
of creeping ferocious reptiles, such as alligators, crocodiles, huge
water snakes and water lizards. Upon its surface, also could be seen
water fowl of all kinds, and upon the branches of trees surrounding
it a great variety of birds, with the gayest plumage, could be found.
Frolicking amidst the tall grass upon its banks would be seen a variety
of wild animals, including beautiful specimens of the frolicsome
Brazilian tiger. A number of us determined to enter this dense
forest and investigate the beauties of this wonderful lake and its
surroundings; but we were warned by the natives that it was a dangerous
undertaking, unless we procured a suitable guide, as it was very dark
and dismal within the forest; and furthermore, that the trails formed
by the animals were so tortuous and crooked, that there was danger of
getting lost. To our inexperienced minds, an undertaking of this nature
offered irresistible fascinations, for we were of a nation that knew
no fear, and the national characteristic being to satisfy curiosity,
let the consequences be what they may, why should we fear? Were we not
armed with the latest discovery that the inventive genius of a Yankee
could devise as a protection? Perhaps the animals in the forest had
not, as yet, been made aware of the fact; but would they not crouch in
abject fear when we entered the dark trails of the vast forest to see
each of us carrying in his hand a Smith & Wesson, duplex patent, double
back action, revolver, vulgarly styled a “pepper-box”? Well, I should
say they would, and so we thought. Armed with this style of weapon,
one pleasant morning four of us (the bravest ones) determined to enter
the forest and beard the tiger in his lair. A native kindly volunteered
to leave his daily toil, and, for a small fee, guide us to the entrance
of the forest. We examined our weapons, drew a long breath, and in
single file, walked in the narrow trail for a short distance into the
dark abyss: then stopped, drew another long breath, and marched out
again. Not because we had any fear for our individual selves, but for
each other, for each didn’t like to see the other torn into a mass of
shoe strings by an enraged tiger.
“What was that awful roaring away in there, do you reckon?” asked one.
“Oh,” says another. “That noise was miles away. I ain’t afraid, so
let’s try it again.”
After discharging a few shots at imaginary beasts, as a fair warning
to others away in the forest that were not imaginary, we again entered
the dark trail and proceeded cautiously onward. The monkeys among the
branches over our heads would follow us, and occasionally approach near
enough to endeavor to snatch our hats from our heads. We had proceeded
in this manner for about a mile, when a Cape Cod chap, who was in the
van, suddenly came to a stop, at the same time exclaiming in a very
emphatic manner, “Go back! go back, quick!” We all pressed forward,
however, anxious to see the cause of the alarm, and we saw it. A few
straggling rays of the sun had forced their way through the thick
foliage above, and illuminated a small patch of the trail of about
two feet in extent, and lying in this sunny spot could be discerned
the head of an enormous serpent. The body was there too, of course,
but being among the bushes it was not visible. We cared nothing for
the body, but it was the ferocious looking head that startled us. Its
eyes assumed all the colors of the rainbow. Four pairs of very severe
eyes were concentrated upon the eyes of the monster, which seemed to
realize the situation, and from a feeling of bashfulness at being gazed
upon by strangers, or, perhaps, having caught sight of our weapons,
and recognized the brand, from an instinct of coming danger closed its
eyes. With optics partially closed, its countenance assumed a very
amiable expression; but a slight movement from one of us caused it to
again raise its eyes, and made one, at least, of us wish that he hadn’t
come.
“Oh pshaw!” remarked a Boston chap, who had attended high school some,
“let’s go ahead anyhow. You remember that Plato, or some other fellow,
said that courage was one of the virtues, or something of the kind. Now
let us prove that we are virtuous young men. We will turn his right
flank, and get to his rear easy enough.”
“Oh, git out,” said the Cape Cod chap; “them form of animals hain’t
got any right nor left flank at all; nor rear end neither, ’cause
their bodies come to a point on the fur end.” Just at this moment,
the monster made a forward movement and we retired in a rather hasty
manner, leaving the serpent to enjoy its sun bath.
But the reader would ask, since we were so well provided with weapons,
why in the name of Cæsar didn’t we massacre the brute at once, and go
on. It must have been from fear that we did not, and so it was. We were
fearful of shooting each other, for we had practiced so little with our
weapons that it had not as yet been positively decided whether or not
we should aim right at an animal that we desired to massacre, or in the
opposite direction. One of the young men who had practiced considerably
during the voyage shooting at the big waves, and was always positive
that he hit them, somewhere, volunteered to test his skill upon the
serpent, but for fear that the noise might make it angry and cause it
to bite some of us, he was prevented.
As we emerged from the forest, our ears were assailed with a most
unearthly screeching, that seemed to come from the open country beyond
the forest. We concluded, at once, that some ferocious monster had by
accident got out of the woods, and was unable to find its way back
again. We examined our weapons, determined to sell our lives at the
highest price, spot cash, and marched manfully in the direction of our
vessel.
The Cape Cod lad remarked, as we hurried onward, that the screeching
reminded him of a political caucus in his native town, and “the
cheerman was a-tryin’ to call ther meetin’ to order.” Upon reaching
a slight elevation, we saw, in the road ahead of us, a cart drawn by
a pair of oxen, and it was from this that the noise proceeded. We
concluded, at once, that the cart contained wild animals that were
perhaps being shipped to New York for Mr. Barnum; but upon nearer
approach we found, to our astonishment and disgust, that the terrible
Brazilian melody was caused by the wheels upon the axles, which in this
country are never greased.
[Illustration: THE MUSICAL OX-CART.]
We suggested to the driver, by certain signs, that they ought to be
greased, and that it was an evidence of barbarism, and would not be
tolerated in any civilized country. “Oh no,” he replied, “Americanos no
sabe. Wheels no sing: bullocks no go.”
Well, ’tis no wonder they go; anything would go from such a noise, and
never return. An army of Kansas grasshoppers would go into the regions
above and never again return to earth. The terrible screeching was
heard also on board of the ship, and it even suggested to our Captain
that we ought to go too, and that ten days was long enough to remain in
any country where they didn’t grease their cart wheels, and we went.
After taking on board a good supply of tropical fruits of various
kinds, with bananas in greatest abundance, which were suspended to the
ship’s rigging in all convenient places until she had the appearance
of a banana plantation going on an excursion, we sailed again out upon
the broad ocean and laid our course for Cape Horn, where we expected to
arrive by the middle of June.