The young Cham only receives the minimum of education. The priests

teach the boys the first principles of reading and writing. In the

first lessons the pupils learn by heart the letters of the alphabet,

each letter representing, according to Hindu belief, one of the

divinities which make their dwelling-place in the human body. After

the alphabet come the names of the animals which symbolize the years

of the duodenary cycle. The remuneration of the teachers consists of a

present of eggs and a bottle of spirits and is due at the beginning of

the first lesson. The Cham, however, are not apt pupils, being

incorrigibly lazy and it is quite a triumph if a woman knows the

elements of housekeeping. When we tried to make laundresses of some of

the women in our escort we discovered the depths of their ignorance

and stupidity. The articles we sent to be washed came back as dirty as

when they went, for the sole idea of washing was to beat the object a

certain number of times against a stone. The number of times was a

fixed quantity beyond which the laundress refused to go, even if the

dirt remained unshaken!

But if the domestic education of the women is neglected what shall be

said of their moral education which is practically non-existent? Here,

as elsewhere in the Far East, a woman is regarded as requiring nothing

more than a knowledge of etiquette and her instruction is complete

when she can recite by heart all the rules which govern social

intercourse and constitute good manners. Some of these rules seem

nothing less than comic to the European.

For example, to laugh in public as a sign of pleasure is strictly

forbidden, but it is the height of good form to yawn when bored. When

the flax is being gathered in it is proper to pretend to be drunk, for

the plant is thereby encouraged to preserve its inebriating qualities.

When a domestic utensil, such as a cooking-pot, becomes broken with

use the good housewife will do nothing so ill-advised as to throw it

away. Good breeding as well as respect, which is due to inanimate

objects just as much as to living persons, exact that the faithful

servant shall be hung on the piles on which the house stands and in

due time be graciously abandoned to a sudden flood. Hence the enormous

number of utensils of all descriptions which are to be seen in the

rivers of Cambodia and other countries inhabited by the Cham.

Lessons in etiquette, which are obligatory on both boys and girls, are

varied most pleasantly with games of all kinds. Of these perhaps the

most popular are the foot races which are organized for children of

all ages. The competitors are handicapped according to their years and

intense is the excitement when the signal is given to start. The

prizes awarded to the winners are generally bananas or mangoes,

whichever is in season. When the sugar cane is ripe the children are

very fond of a game which is played in this wise.

A stick of sugar cane is put on the ground. The player takes a knife

and his task is to cut the stalk into five pieces in three strokes. If

he is a skilled performer he makes the second cut in such a way that

two of the pieces lie close enough together to be slashed through with

the final stroke. The rules forbid the player to use his hands to

arrange the pieces so that the second stroke requires no little skill.

If the canes cannot be obtained from the paternal field recourse must

be had to the shops, and then a contest ensues in which each child

tries to avoid being left to pay the bill. To settle this thorny point

lots are drawn, for the first comers have a great advantage. The

fortunate player on whom the lot falls has the right of selecting the

largest stalk from the dealer's stock, taking care that the bottom

section is of normal form. He now balances the cane before him, and

with one slash of his knife cuts it in two before it has had time to

fall. He is entitled to keep the part he has cut off and if he is

skilful it will be a large one. The second player now takes the rest

of the stick and performs the same operation. The others follow in

turn, the various sections are compared and the owner of the shortest

piece has the honour of paying for all after which they devour the

booty with the solemnity of a public ceremony.

The children pick up a smattering of musical knowledge and never lose

an opportunity of performing on their fathers' gongs. Sometimes they

play together and occasionally attain the height of a recognizable

melody when the instruments are of much the same pitch and the touch

of the artist is light. Children of a more serious disposition are

initiated into the mysteries of chess, a game which is played all the

world over. The Cham chessman is very similar to ours and the board

has also sixty-four squares. The castle, however, is replaced by a

general, the bishops by canoes, and the pawns by fishes. The object of

each player is to put the opposing king in check and the means adopted

are virtually the same as in our game.

CHAPTER III

RITES AND SUPERSTITIONS

The beginnings of Islam in Indo-China--Rites which accompany

initiation into the priestly caste--The gods of

Cham--Temples--Resemblance between the architecture of the Cham

and that of the Kmer--Phallic rites--A visit to a royal

sepulchre.

The date of the introduction of Islam into Indo-China has never been

more than approximately fixed. The better opinion is that it made its

way into the country in the twelfth century through the medium of

Persian or Arab traders. However that may be, the new faith maintained

itself more or less in its primitive purity among the Cham, thanks

largely to the zeal of the Malays who had proved ready converts and

migrated into Indo-China, and more especially Cambodia, in large

numbers from the fourteenth century onwards. In Annam, on the other

hand, Islam was speedily blended with Hinduism to form a compound in

which the original ingredients almost defied recognition.

Among the Mohammedan Cham, known as the Cham Bani, the head of the

priestly caste is called "Pô Gru" or "Ong Gru," titles the sense of

which may be rendered by "Leader of the Faithful." He is selected

from the Imôns, the priesthood who are assisted in the discharge of

their ceremonial duties by various religious officials of lower rank.

The rank of a priest is indicated by the length of the scarlet and

gold tassels on his turban. Otherwise there is no distinction in the

costume which consists of a white sarong, a white shirt fastened with

yellow glass buttons and a white girdle also ornamented with tassels.

The crook is a long rattan stalk carried in the hand. The High

Priest's crook is distinguished by having its roots plaited together

to form a kind of basket.

Few of the priests read Arabic and that with difficulty, while the

surahs they recite by heart bear only a distant resemblance to the

Koran. The very word "Koran" is unfamiliar. It is usually referred to

as "The Book of Islam," or "The Book of Praise," or the "Treatise of

the Faith."

In Annam the Ramadan lasts only three days, though the priests observe

the fast for the full prescribed month.

On the evening before the fast begins each priest makes his way to the

mosque and takes up his station in the building with his impedimenta.

He is careful not to forget his minimum of necessaries. His first act

is to spread out with meticulous care the mat which is to serve him

for a bed. At one end of this he places a cube of lacquered wood, his

pillow. Next he solemnly unrolls the palm leaves on which the sacred

lines have been engraved with some sharp instrument. Then he hangs his

string of amber beads on the wall. As earthly indulgences are not

entirely forbidden to him, he takes good care to bring his cigarettes

and the apparatus for preparing betel and tea.

As long as the fast lasts he is prohibited from leaving the building,

so the two vessels containing water for the nine liturgical ablutions

are set up under the porch just within reach. These ablutions are a

very serious part of the business, for it is absolutely essential that

no part of the ceremony should be omitted, even in forgetfulness.

First he washes his hands, spraying the water up to his elbows, then

his mouth, nostrils, forehead, and finally his feet as far as the

ankles. Woe to him if he forgets to recite his five daily prayers or

his nightly salaam, religious exercises which he usually consigns to

oblivion at other times! The meticulous observance of the rites during

these four weeks is a guarantee of sanctity and the redemption of

sins, past, present and prospective.

Of these sins the commonest are breaches of the multifarious

regulations, affecting both the Kaphir and Bani priests, prohibiting

the consumption of certain specified foods. That sins of this

character should be distressingly frequent is hardly surprising when

we remember that each month, and even each day of the month, has its

particular prohibition. Thus stews, hashes, hare and poultry are

strictly forbidden on Mondays in the second month. All foods

containing oil and dark-coloured meat may not be touched on Thursdays

in the fifth month. Prohibitions so strict and comprehensive show the

road to certain transgression in a country where in the nature of

things there can be little variety of diet.

Historians have noted in all peoples, whatever the degree of

civilization that has been attained, the prevalence of the idea that

some intermediary is necessary to establish communication between man

and his God. Thus, in Egypt of the Pharaohs, the King was considered

the son of God, and as such the proper medium through which his

subjects should address their deity. This sacred office of the King

was recognized by the deity himself. On certain appointed days the

statue of the god made some conventional sign to indicate his approval

and assent. We have the evidence of bas-reliefs in the temples to show

that this fiction was still maintained in the days of the Roman

Empire. At a subsequent period the sacred function was delegated to a

special priestly caste; under the later Empire we find the High

Priests of Amon at Thebes usurping the royal authority in its

entirety.

Professor Foucart, in his "History of Religions,"[4] shows that the

origin of the sacerdotal caste is to be sought in remote antiquity.

Man has always experienced the need of a privileged class, set apart

for the purpose of ensuring the observance of certain religious rites

and securing their transmission from generation to generation in their

primitive purity. These rites, which are usually simple in character

and in essentials common to all religions, are generally accompanied

by mystic phrases, the sum of which constitutes Ritual. As the phrases

are often high-sounding and impressive, historians have been tempted

to attribute to them a meaning which is not warranted in fact. In most

cases the words used do nothing more than define the character of the

ceremonial act which they accompany. But as the essence of Magic is

the endowment of a simple phrase or object with an ulterior mystical

significance it is not surprising that the ritual-makers should spare

no pains to produce an illusion in the minds of the worshippers. Their

obvious motive is to exploit, in the interest of their own class, a

science which results in material advantages.

The education of the priests is not confined to the study of the

secret language but extends to a knowledge of the special objects used

in religious ceremonies. Consequently a period of initiation, a

phenomenon noticed in all ages and among all races, is regarded as

essential for aspirants to the priestly ranks. The rites which mark

this period of initiation are substantially similar among all races.

They are directed in the main towards the purification of the neophyte

from the sins inherent to the secular state and to set the stamp of

legality on his adoption of the religious life. In general, they

consist of a rite of separation to mark the abandonment of old ties,

a rite of purification proper, and rites of adoption into the new

association. From this it is easy to see why ceremonies of this kind

always enshrine the metaphor of a death to the old life and a re-birth

in the new one. Whether we turn to the Shamans of Siberia, the Lamas

of Thibet, the Brahmins of India, the Bonzes of Cambodia, the Padjaos

of the Cham, we find the essence of the ceremony identical, however

diversified the details may be.

All those familiar with the practice of the Roman Catholic Church know

that among certain of the Orders the ceremony of entry or taking the

veil includes the Burial Service followed by a hymn of triumph to hail

the resurrection of the new spirit reclaimed from the world. In other

religions the procedure is a heavy sleep from which the novice awakes

to find himself consecrated by Heaven.

The rudiments of this idea are found in the rites which mark the

ordination of a Padjao among the Kaphir Cham. A Padjao is not so much

a priestess as a prophetess in whom resides the power of foretelling

the future and also of protecting from all evil when the Spirit--or

rather the "Transport," to adopt the professional phrase used by her

class--takes her.

Properly speaking the Padjao does not "take vows," but rather devotes

herself to strict celibacy. If she is married when the heavenly call

comes to her her husband must leave her at once. The observance of

continence, apparent if not actual, is obligatory, and any breach of

this rule would be visited by the Spirits with the most condign

punishment affecting both the transgressor and her accomplice.

[Illustration: Image of a Departed Saint in a Phallic Temple.]

[Illustration: Statues erected to the Dead in Laos.]

[Illustration: Shrine of a Laotian Priest.]

[Illustration: The Interior of the Shrine.]

According to a certain priest of Phanrang, "Padjao" means "Princess,"

and the modern priestesses perform the functions which formerly

devolved on the ladies of royal blood who filled religious offices in

ancient Champa. On the other hand, "Padjand" in old Javanese, means

"Moonlight," and in this connection it is significant that the Cham

identify with the moon one of their most highly venerated divinities,

the "Celestial Padjao." However this may be, the ordination of these

women in Annam is marked by some very curious ceremonies. The novice

is selected by the Priestess herself when, feeling herself advancing

in years, the choice of a successor becomes an urgent matter. The

fortunate object of her selection receives the name of "Happiness of

the Human Race." She falls on her knees before her spiritual mother

and offers her two eggs, a cup of spirits and some betel, a sign of

her dutiful submission. The recipient of these gifts now takes off her

girdle and passes it round the head of her newly appointed assistant

who is bound henceforth to appear in this form of turban at every

public ceremony. Then they both swallow three grains of rice and salt,

symbols of plenty. The novice next falls into a sleep or trance,

during which her soul departs to the moon to be consecrated by the

great "Celestial Padjao," who will reveal to her all the mysteries of

life and the secrets of mortals. This trance is, of course, the

counterpart of the symbolic death and resurrection which we have seen

to be characteristic of the change from the earthly to the heavenly

life.

During this ceremony, which is called the "Deification of the Padjao,"

the Faithful sacrifice a black kid and burn eagle-wood, the odour of

which is supposed to be particularly agreeable to the dwellers in the

Heavens.

Priestess and novice next indulge in a religious dance known as the

"Tania." In their left hands they wave a scarlet scarf while holding a

fan in their right. Then taking a betel leaf the priestess passes it

through the flame of a candle and offers it to her who is

thenceforward to share her office. It must not be imagined, however,

that the novice secures her entry into the priestly caste by this

ceremony. Her admission is temporary and is only confirmed when, after

a novitiate of a year, the Gods indicate their consent to delegate

their powers to her. A second ordination is thus necessary which must

be attended by all those who were present at the first. If, however,

some of the original spectators have died in the meantime the rites

are satisfied if they are represented by members of their families of

the same sex.

On the evening before this second ceremony all those who are to take

part in it must take the bath of purification.

As the approval of the Celestial Padjao is by no means a foregone

conclusion her answer is awaited by the priestess with some

trepidation. With a view to securing her favourable regard the latter

brings an offering in a basket on which she sets up two lighted

candles. These candles are the medium through which the divine will is

to be revealed. If they go out or burn with a smoky flame this is a

clear indication to the novice to abandon her hopes and return to her

old life. In that case a successor to her will be found in due time.

But if the candles burn up brightly the year's apprenticeship has been

judged sufficient to qualify her for divine approval.

A person whose assistance is indispensable to the Padjao is the

"Meûdoun," an individual who does not belong to the priestly caste but

who is in constant touch with the deities by virtue of his office. The

period of initiation is short and is occupied by learning to perform

on the drum and reciting liturgical phrases. The "Meûdoun" is

appointed by his predecessor and enters upon his duties immediately.

His services are requisitioned when exorcisms, incantations or

divinations are on foot.

Among the Cham of Cambodia another variety of ceremonies marks the

ordination of their Prophetess. In the first place, the social status

enjoyed by that official is not as high as in Annam. She seems to

inspire a kind of awe rather than any sentiment of veneration. Here

the rites of initiation savour of Demonology.

The requirements of time and place are satisfied by a clear moonlight

night and a deserted ant-heap in the depths of the forest. The

prospective Prophetess appears and with one sweep with a sword severs

a cock in twain from its head to its tail. Then, totally naked, she

executes a frenzied dance, accompanied by weird incantations before

her victim until the mystic moment when, thanks to the powers of magic

and the veil of night, the severed halves join together and the

resurrected fowl utters a pæan of victory!

Priestesses of all these regions have this in common, that they dress

either in white or in black and red. The flesh of swine and lizards is

absolutely forbidden, no mean hardship in a portion of the globe where

the lizard is regarded as a great delicacy.

It is to be observed that, contrary to the practice prevailing among

most semi-barbarous peoples, the Cham allow young and middle-aged

women to perform religious functions. The age of twenty is, in fact,

the normal time for entering the sacerdotal caste. This is all the

more remarkable because it has frequently been demonstrated that among

primitive races women are not admitted to the privileges of men until

after the menopause.

The Pantheon of the Cham Bani consists of the "Heroes of Civilization"

to whom they ascribe the foundation and development of their three

ancient capitals. Thus Pô Oulah, or Allah the Mighty, made his

residence during the eleventh century in the town of Bal Sri Banôy. It

is more than likely that this potentate was the actual conqueror who

first brought Islam into Indo-China.

Pô Klong Garai is said to have founded the second capital, Bal-Hangov,

the "City of Pine Trees," the reputed traces of which have been

discovered near Hué. Finally Pô Binôsuor shed the lustre of his name

on Bal Angouai, the ruins of which are still visible at Cha Bàn in the

province of Binh Dinh. Some philologists associate this city with the

ancient town of Balonga mentioned by Ptolemy. For this last ruler,

however, whose great achievement was the repulse of the Annamite

invasion, the Cham have substituted the name of Pô Ramé, a prince of

no great fame, who seems to have been a kind of adventurer who sprang

into importance by marrying a princess of royal blood.

It need hardly be said that these great heroes are credited with all

manner of marvellous exploits. The supernatural even enters into their

birth, for they are supposed to have been born of virgin mothers, a

detail which enhances their resemblance to the Brahminic divinities.

In this connection it may be observed that the members of the Hindu

Trinity, Brahma, Vishnu and Siva, with their "Saktis," or wives, Umâ,

Lasmî and Kali, are universally confused with the native deities of

the Cham either under their own or substituted names. For example, Pô

Inö Nögar, the Black Lady, the Queen of Women, is none other than

ancient Bhagavati, the sakti of Siva.

The Pantheon of the Kaphir Cham is no less nondescript. At its head

stand out three masculine divinities. The first is Pô Amö, Lord of

Creation, who bears a close resemblance to Brahma. The second, Pô

Yâta, is only an emanation of Pô Amö and reigns over the Vault of

Heaven. The third is Pô Allah, an incorporeal deity whose sanctuary is

at Mecca and who has been borrowed from the pantheon of the Cham Bani.

Then follows a certain number of female divinities, among whom Pô Inö

Nögar of the Cham Bani appears as Pô Yang Inö Nögar Taha, the Great

Mother-Goddess of the Kingdom who is endowed with authority over the

others. This venerable matron, born, it is said, from a wave of the

sea, married no less than ninety-seven husbands. Her offspring,

however, amounted to no more than thirty-eight daughters, a poor

compliment to the prolific powers of her spouses.

These girls remained virgins all their lives and showed the effects of

their enforced celibacy in their sour tempers. This unpleasant

characteristic, however, has made them objects of peculiar veneration

to the natives whose utilitarian morals teach them to neglect the

deities reputed to be amiable and concentrate all their fervour on

those considered evilly disposed towards man.

In addition to housing these disagreeable virgins, the Heavens are

also the abode of a young queen who can grant or withhold all human

joys. Her name is Padjao Yang and she personifies the Moon, the

faithful minister of Pô Adityak, the Sun. When the Sun passes before

Padjao Yang she shows her good breeding and training by bowing to the

ground before her Master, a mark of respect which produces the

phenomenon of eclipse. One characteristic which this immortal person

shares with her mortal sisters is worthy of remark. She is never more

than thirty years old! This figure has been selected probably because

thirty is the average number of days in a lunar month. It need hardly

be said that she never complains of this burden of youth. Some of the

more gallant Cham go further, and seeing her sometimes arrayed in a

diaphanous halo, swear that her age never exceeds that of her robe!

How many of those same mortal sisters would like to say the same!

The temples in which the ritualistic ceremonies of the Cham take place

differ according to the observances of the various sects. Thus the

mosques of the Cham Bani are narrow huts which could hardly

accommodate a single family. It is doubtful whether more than a dozen

are to be found in the whole of Annam. They invariably face west, the

direction of Mecca, and for furniture and accessories contain a few

mats for the use of the worshippers, a drum to call them to prayer and

a pulpit which never seems to be occupied. On the very holiest of

holy days strips of white cloth are hung over this pulpit and spread

over the floor. On Fridays is held the general service of prayer,

which, however, is usually but sparsely attended. The Koran requires a

quorum of forty, but in practice that figure is seldom reached. At the

conclusion of this ceremony wine and spirits are freely circulated

among the worshippers though these liquids are taboo to the true

Mussulman.

The hut-temples of the Siva-worshippers among the Kaphir Cham are not

more elaborate. The chief object to be seen in one of these is the

"Mukha-Linga," a piece of stone cut to resemble the male organ of

generation but adorned with the face of the god Siva, which is made

more life-like by a dressing of coloured plaster. On special occasions

this curious object is dressed up in a scarlet mantle. A stone

receptacle for holy water and a few other utensils complete the

necessary accessories.

These temples, however, are not the only outward and visible signs of

religious life among the Cham. A certain number of ancient monuments,

which both Annamites and Europeans erroneously call towers, but which

are in fact exclusively devoted to religious uses, are carefully

preserved. These constructions are always to be found on hills or at

other conspicuous points dominating the surrounding country. The

choice of the site is not without significance. It is a matter of

universal knowledge that most races attach a sacred character to

heights. For example, Mount Sinai and Mount Tabor are mentioned as

holy mountains in the Bible. The temple of Delphi stood on a hill. The

Acropolis looks over Athens, and the Celts always selected some

prominent spot as the scene of their sacrifices.

The best preserved of the temples which date from the days when the

kingdom of the Champa stood at its apogee is only a few miles distant

from Phanrang. It was built early in the fourteenth century and was

consecrated to Pô Klong Garai. I had plenty of opportunity to examine

the ruins carefully, for with the sacrilegious indifference of

Europeans we had erected on them the lofty mast which was essential to

our geodetical operations.

They consisted of a principal building with three annexes. All four

faced east and were made of brick. As we made our way into the

sanctuary for the first time, through the opening which served for

sole entrance and exit, we were greeted by a nauseating smell and the

clapping of innumerable wings. The place was literally infested with

bats, and, in addition, was pitch dark, so that a torch was a prime

necessity.

The interior was not what might have been expected from inspection of

the exterior. As access to light and air was only provided by the one

narrow doorway, it is not difficult to imagine how the sanctuary had

become the favourite resort of all the bats in the district.

A stone altar stood against the back wall. The upper surface was

slightly concave to enable liquids to run off. On one of its sides was

a "Mukha-Linga" with black beard and whiskers, which contrasted

strangely with the pallor of the face. In the vestibule, with a

necklace round its throat was a "Nandi," the White Bull of Siva, which

the Cham call "Kapila." He it is who bears away the dead on his back

to Keylasa, of which he is the guardian. According to the Hindus the

"Nandi" is also Siva's favourite mount and frequently their identities

blend in the figure of a Hermit with the body of a man and the head of

a bull.

The Samaritans also favoured animal-headed deities. It will be

remembered that Thartac had a donkey's head and Anubis that of a dog.

Other analogies between various early religious systems readily

suggest themselves.

Thus the Babylonian Ishtar stood for the principle of fecundity and

must be compared with the goddess Kali, the sakti of Siva, who is also

known as "Yomi," the "Fertile Womb."

The Assyrians worshipped another Ishtar, a highly formidable goddess,

who always appears in her statues armed with some murderous weapon.

This characteristic of cruelty is equally prominent in Kali, the

goddess of Blood, Lust and Death, whose statues always represent her

grimacing and repulsive with a necklace and bracelets of human skulls

and bones.

The doorway of the temple is formed of three granite monoliths of

which the two uprights are covered with inscriptions. Above is a

bas-relief on a kind of sculptured lintel, representing Siva dancing.

It is remarkably well-preserved. The god has six arms. The lowest pair

grasp a trident, as is usual in statues of Siva, and a lotus-bloom,

which is more generally associated with Vishnu. The middle pair

brandish a scimitar and a dagger. The other pair are clasped behind

the god's head.

Four small stone elephants complete the accessories of the sanctuary.

They represent the wild elephants which, so legend says, entered the

temple while it was being built.

There is a broad general resemblance between the temples of the Cham

and those of the Kmer who also professed the Brahminic religion. The

Kmer also selected rising ground with a wide sweep of view as the site

for their sacred edifices. Great care was taken that the main façade

should face towards the east. The interior consisted of a single hall

with an entrance sometimes so low that it was necessary to stoop to

get in. The walls were innocent of all decoration and became damp and

clammy in the darkness. The outside walls and especially the doorway,

however, were the objects of considerable artistic effort. The doorway

in particular was usually surmounted by a lintel with figures of the

gods and their distinctive symbols. Thus Vishnu is represented astride

of Garuda, the parrot-headed god, Brahma rides on geese and Indra a

three-headed elephant. The dancing Siva, with a multitude of arms

disposed halo-wise around his head, is one of the commonest figures. I

remember seeing one on the façade of the Temple of Pô Klong Garai.

The architecture of the Javanese also furnishes some equally

remarkable resemblances.

I have already remarked that the Siva-worshipping Cham, like their

Hindu co-religionists, have adopted the symbol of a linga to represent

that deity. It is worthy of note in this connection that the Egyptians

represented their god Osiris in the form of a phallus, the equivalent

of a linga. This phallus-worship made its way into Greece, and

especially Babylon where the earliest inscriptions are found engraved

on large clay phalli.

Phallus-worship, transformed into linga-worship, was introduced into

the Far East by the Hindus. Traces of it have been found in Java. In

spite of the distance, Japan also welcomed it along with many other

foreign cults but to-day it only remains a tradition in that country,

though there are some Japanese villages where huge phalli, made of

bamboo covered with canvas, figure in the local processions. At the

top of these weird structures is a small opening from which urchins

make a pretence of haranguing the crowd.

Barth considers the origin of linga-worship to be wrapped in

obscurity. We know that phallic rites were part of the religions of

the Veda but that there was no actual phallus-worship.

Some say it came from the west, probably Greece, but it is at least as

likely that the Hindus evolved this particular symbolism themselves.

However that may be, it is certain that the cult made its appearance

simultaneously with Siva-worship.

The linga is often represented in conjunction with the yoni, the

female organ and the symbol of Devi, wife of Siva.

It should be said at once that these objects are treated symbolically,

not realistically. The linga is a simple cone, the yoni a triangular

prism. This abstract treatment is said by some to be the outcome of a

protest against idolatry, in proof of which they point to the fact

that Vishnu and Lasmî his wife are represented respectively by a

fossil-shell, the Calagrama, and a plant of the sweet-basil species,

the Tulosi. It should be added that Hindu art is remarkable for its

freedom from suggestiveness and that, in whatever guise the mystery of

life is symbolized, the form selected is one which never provokes

indecent ideas.

The Kaphir Cham of Phantiet and Phanry have another cult of the same

kind, the worship of the yoni in another form. This rite is the

introduction into some cavity, the hollow of a tree perhaps, or the

fissure of a rock or the burrow of an animal, of a large rudely carved

wooden cylinder. The worshipper recites the wish on the fulfilment of

which his hopes are set while pouring spirits on the cylinder. He

makes his prayer to Pô Yang Dari, the Shameless Goddess who can cure

children of all diseases.

The primitive conception which underlies all this symbolism must, of

course, be traced to the belief in imitative magic, which endows the

performance of a ritualistic act with the power of inducing other

beings or objects to imitate that act. It is thus quite natural that

the idea of fecundity, the word being taken in its widest sense,

should be closely associated with every phase and form of

phallus-worship.

It is a thousand pities that from the beginning of the nineteenth

century the spread of pharisaical prudery has prevented even those

best qualified by long residence among uncivilized races from probing

into questions concerning sex and publishing the results of their

researches. The explorers of the eighteenth century were not so

hampered, and their observations, from which the veil of priggish

reticence is withdrawn, furnish us with much valuable information on a

department of human activity which is of surpassing interest and

importance to the ethnographer.

The Kmer took their architecture from the Hindus. There is an obvious

resemblance between the religious edifices of the two peoples and in

addition both built their temples in naturally secluded places, a

preference which is amply explained by the nature of a religion which

endows its deities with so formidable a character that only priests

may approach them. The rank and file of worshippers have to be content

with following the sacrifices with their thoughts. They congregate in

the outer paved courts of the temples and make themselves shelters of

bamboos and leaves. In some places asylums for ailing pilgrims are

built in the immediate neighbourhood of the temples. These hospices

are under the charge of monks who care for the stricken wayfarers.

Of the slight differences which distinguish the buildings of the two

peoples the most noticeable is the treatment of the roof. The Kmer

roof is a kind of ogival dome recalling the edifices of the Arabs,

while the Hindus crown their quadrangular pyramids with a four-sided

cone.

The artistic skill of the Kmer has mainly been lavished on pyramids,

sacred pools and rock-surfaces, many of which are entirely covered

with figures of gods. There are also many towers which serve as

shrines for images of the deities. It will be remembered that the

stupas of the Hindus are devoted to a similar use.

The temples face east, an arrangement which is explained by the fact

that the services usually take place early in the morning on that side

of the building which receives a maximum of sun. On the other hand

certain temples devoted to the worship of the Gods of the Lower

Regions face to the west, for the reason that the rites are always

celebrated at sunset.

The statuary of the Cham seems to owe much both to the Kmer and the

Hindus. One fact, indeed, is incontestable, that the human type

represented is clearly the Aryan, whereas the Cham artists spent all

their lives among men of a totally different type. It is plain that

they did not take their own people for their models. The explanation

can only be that the Cham imported their art of sculpture just as they

imported their religion. Another remarkable fact is that in their

statues of gods and prophets the figures are almost destitute of

clothing, while their kings and heroes are always represented in

gorgeous apparel. In this connection it may be remembered that the

prophets of one of the two principal sects of the Jainists call

themselves the "Digambara," which means "They who are clothed in

space."

The usual type of head-dress is conical or cylindrical in shape. The

lobes of the ears are elongated and pierced with holes from which

earrings are hung. The feet are always bare. The figures of women show

them as of the same type as the men, and their hair is dressed in

similar fashion. The upper half of the body is uncovered, exposing

their breasts which are full and perfect in shape. The lower half is

concealed by a kind of skirt secured at the waist by a girdle with

fringes which sweep to their feet. Their ears, neck, legs and arms are

adorned with jewels.

These main features are found reproduced in the few antique statues

still to be found among the Cham.

I have a lively recollection of one occasion on which, so I was told,

I was the first European to enter a certain temple. No experience in

my varied life has left a more indelible impression on my memory. The

Mission was engaged in scientific operations between Phantiet and

Phanry, the ancient home of the Cham, and our headquarters consisted

of a number of rude huts in the very heart of the forest.

One day I received a visit from the headman of a neighbouring village,

a diminutive individual with a face the colour of a dead leaf. I had

previously rendered him some service by treating him for severe

ophthalmia and he now proposed to show his gratitude by revealing to

me the whereabouts of a ruined temple which was so concealed in the

forest as hitherto to defy discovery by Europeans. He told me I should

find two statues, in excellent preservation, of kings who had been

raised to the rank of deities by their subjects. Also I was to have

every opportunity of sketching and taking photographs.

The temple was not more than thirty miles distant, so my expedition

was duly announced as a mere excursion for pleasure. We set out,

accompanied by two young natives, my usual companions in my private

wanderings, who had charge of the photographic and other apparatus as

well as our arms and provisions. Our journey was without incident, for

my kind guide gave me the fullest instructions as to the route to the

Temple of Song Sui.

[Illustration: Statue of an Ancient King of Cambodia.]

[Illustration: Statue of an Ancient Queen of Cambodia.]

[Illustration: An Old Cham Temple in a Cambodian Forest.]

[Illustration: The House of a Cham Aristocrat.]

[Illustration: A Cottage Home in Cambodia.]

This remarkable sanctuary is the tomb of an ancient king of the Cham

and the object of a very popular pilgrimage at certain seasons of the

year. It consists of three separate pavilions in a large enclosure

which is divided into two halves, one higher than the other. The lower

half is used by the general public while the upper is reserved for the

family of any worshipper who desires to make a sacrificial offering.

The statue of the King is in the central building. It is cut from a

single block of granite and coloured to show a robe of red and gold.

On the King's head is a fez to which a golden helmet is added on

special occasions. The neck and the ears are pierced with holes from

which necklaces and earrings are suspended. The eyebrows meet above

the nose, the moustaches are twisted upwards and the eyes are

half-closed.

The door of the central pavilion is of beaten iron, hand-forged. Of

the two other pavilions one alone remains, a picturesque ruin. The

other has completely disappeared in the undergrowth, a few stones

remaining to mark the site. In the survivor there is a statue of one

of the King's two wives standing between two elaborate steles. The

Queen's hair is arranged in the shape of a cone, a fashion which is

typical of the statues of the Kmer. The nails are stained red, and all

the fingers (except the middle one), and also the thumb, are covered

with rings.

A balustrade, very similar to those which decorate European tombs,

runs round behind this pavilion. In this enclosure an unhappy black

goat is chained up, destined to decapitation at the precise moment

when the sacrifice is consummated. The floor is made of stone with a

narrow trench through which the blood is drained off.

Having exhibited the resemblances between this temple and those of the

Kmer I propose to suggest other resemblances, not less striking,

between it and some of the ancient Egyptian tombs.

The royal steles of the Egyptians are of a fairly regular outline,

gently rounded at the top and usually semicircular. As is well known,

their purpose was to hand down to posterity the identity and genealogy

of a particular Pharaoh. The monarch's statue, on the other hand, was

the actual living image of the departed, for it was universally

believed that the dead man's double returned to make its abode in his

form. It is even possible that the first idea of statuary had its

origin in this conception of a magical reanimation.

The deceased was always represented in his robes of state (however

scanty) and seated on the throne. Food was set on a small table within

his reach. The figure was dressed, covered with jewels and smothered

in perfumes. The nails were coloured with henna and the eyes

blackened. Every step in the proceedings was accompanied by formal

chanting.

In the case of royal statues these ceremonies were observed up to the

twelfth dynasty. They then fell into desuetude and it became

customary merely to paint up the statue with clothes, jewels and other

accoutrements in as realistic a manner as possible. In the British

Museum there are three large wooden statues, taken from royal tombs of

the thirteenth century, which are remarkable illustrations of this

process of evolution in statuary.

It is to this process of evolution, due to a change of ideas, that we

must ascribe the gradual disappearance of the belief that the soul of

the deceased returned to dwell in his statue, and also of the equally

primitive belief that the purpose and meaning of offering a sacrifice

was to furnish the deceased with food in his new existence.

I was extremely interested in my visit with its valuable discoveries,

and it may readily be imagined that I was in great haste to return to

camp and develop my plates. My guide announced that he knew a route

which would save us many miles. The morning passed uneventfully

enough. On many occasions we crossed the tracks of elephants, but I

was not to be moved from my purpose. Hunting was out of fashion that

day. We were too bent on getting home.

To be ready for any emergency I gave one of my rifles to the Cham

chief who was a good shot. Some alligators were sunning themselves on

the sandy banks of a stream. We broke in upon their siesta without

hesitation and without apology.

My companion informed me that we should pass through a certain

village and that, at the rate at which we were then marching, we

should reach it before nightfall. However, our two boys, less

accustomed to forced marching than their elders, began to show signs

of distress. I could see them shifting from one shoulder to the other

the bamboo-pole from which our impedimenta was slung and they soon

began to complain of the thorns in the path which lacerated their

feet. The two boys were quite young, the elder being perhaps sixteen.

They had been attached to the Mission for more than six months, a long

period for natives, who dislike regular occupation and are ever in

search of change. I had a peculiar affection for these two. They were

indefatigable servants and remarkably docile and even-tempered.

Their complaints seemed reasonable enough and to relieve them the

chief and I shouldered the bamboo-pole. We set off again but soon put

a large and growing distance between ourselves and the younger

generation lagging behind. Meanwhile the sun was hastening towards his

western bed. At one time the loiterers seemed to have put on a spurt,

but the effort exhausted itself and they fell behind once more. At a

bend of the path we decided to wait until the boys came up. We kept

ourselves carefully out of sight lest the vision of our halt should

inspire them to a similar indulgence.

Some minutes passed, but no one appeared. Had the rascals given up the

attempt to follow us or had they lost their way? I ran back to the

bend in the path. The route by which we had come stretched away in a

straight line for miles, but no human being was in sight.

Our coolies had fled!

The mask-like countenance of my companion betrayed neither surprise

nor any other emotion. The truants were not of his faith nor did they

hail from his village. They were but vulgar Annamites, at best a race

of sneaking hucksterers. His sympathies were evidently confined to the

faithful of his own parish.

I confess I was irritated by his obvious indifference. To my knowledge

the forest through which we had passed was infested with tigers and

the stunted leafless trees were the most illusory refuge from the

brutes. I had an uncomfortable premonition that our pleasure-party, so

happily begun, was entering the realms of tragedy.

In the course of our three years' residence in southern Annam no less

than twelve natives had been devoured by tigers. Several of the

victims were attached to the Mission, and on more than one occasion I

had been the hapless witness of their horrible sufferings.

On one occasion a coolie suddenly vanished through the wicker-work

floor of our hut, which was built on piles quite nine feet high. The

tiger, however, had climbed on to a baulk of timber which was lying on

the ground below and using this as a platform had succeeded in

catching hold of one end of his victim's waist-cord which happened to

be hanging through the interstices of the floor. The beast gave a

violent tug and dragged the hapless coolie through the floor. The man,

taken by surprise, was helpless and fell, an unresisting prey, into

the tiger's jaws.

I feel considerable diffidence in telling a story which I myself

should not have believed had the tragedy not occurred before my very

eyes.

On another occasion one of my colleagues and myself were taking our

evening meal, waited on by a Cham boy about twelve years old. It was

shortly after seven, I think, and the rain was falling in torrents.

All at once we heard a shriek proceeding from the direction of the

kitchen and in a moment the boy entered, white with terror.

"The Tiger," he could hardly get the words out, "seized hold of my

coat." He showed us a huge rent in the flimsy material which covered

his trembling body. Outside it was pitch dark. We had no lamps and it

seemed highly risky to venture forth with so undesirable a neighbour

watching us. We quickly set about protecting ourselves by barricading

the entrance to the room with a palisade of wattles. The real mystery

was how the beast had made its way into the enclosure, guarded as it

was by a solid fence made of baulks of timber and forming a veritable

blockhouse. An hour later we heard the stamping of hoofs, violent

kicks and terror-stricken neighing. Then silence. About midnight our

light went out. It would have been madness to go to the kitchen to

fetch another, so we found ourselves condemned to wait in the

darkness, listening for every sound and our nerves on edge. Needless

to say, sleep was impossible. At dawn we ventured out. Everything was

in confusion. Our horses had broken loose and stampeded over the

fence. One of them lay disembowelled before us and half its

hindquarters had disappeared. On the face of the embankment on which

our house was elevated, immediately before the door of the room where

we had been sitting, were the traces of a tiger's paws clearly visible

in the clay.

The boy had not been mistaken. He had indeed been seized by the beast

and owed his safety to his worn and tattered clothing. The marks of

teeth and claws on some of the baulks of the palisade showed us that

the visitor had climbed over. We learnt one lesson from this

experience. Our camp, with its solid rampart ten feet high, was only

an illusory protection against a really determined man-eater!

All these horrible recollections--and many others which can find no

place here, this not being a story of adventure--flashed through my

mind in the space of a few seconds.

Meanwhile time was flying and night came down on us unheralded by

twilight as in Europe. Our search was all in vain and no answer came

to our repeated shouts. The coolies had gone.

It was not until late at night and after much struggling that we

reached the village. In spite of the friendly light thrown by a torch

I remained all night a prey to the most vivid hallucinations. Time

after time I watched a huge tiger spring out of the darkness with the

corpse of one of the missing boys in his jaws.

Two days later the elder of the two came into the village. He was

shivering with fever and dared not present himself before me, so I

went to see him. Ghastly was the story he had to unfold. Just before

the bend in the path which I have mentioned the two boys had been

unable to go further and had sat down. When we were out of sight they

had attempted to continue their journey, but before they had advanced

a few yards a huge tiger had sprung upon the younger, while the elder

had remained dumb with astonishment and terror. Helpless with fear and

weariness the survivor had wandered in the forest and at last, in

sheer desperation, had climbed into a tree expecting at every moment

to share the fate of his luckless companion.

The Cham chief, who listened to this harrowing story with an air of

indifference and barely concealed scorn, at length delivered himself

of an aphorism:

"Fear claims far more victims than courage."

CHAPTER IV

RITES AND SUPERSTITIONS (_continued_)

Agrarian rites--Tabooed ricefields--Secret ploughing--Sleeping

rice--Various uses of eagle-wood--How the Cham procure

it--Public festivals and holy days.

Of all the races which inhabit Indo-China the Cham come easily first

for the variety and individuality of their agrarian rites. There is

practically no difference between the Bani and Kaphir in this respect.

Both peoples recognize three kinds of sacred ricefields in which no

manner of work may be carried on without the accompaniment of a

special ritual. If, in the course of ploughing a rice-field, excessive

fatigue has been occasioned to either man or beast, sufficient to

cause illness, the field becomes taboo, "Hamu Tabung." The evil eye

has been cast upon it, and no remedy exists but to sell the

contaminated place at no matter what sacrifice. It need hardly be said

that the only possible purchasers are the few Annamite Christians who

are scattered throughout these regions. The Buddhist Annamites shun

such a spot as if it were plague-stricken. The cause of the mischance

is supposed to be the presence of some ancient burial-ground, the

existence of which was not suspected.

Every village has its two or three sacred ricefields the "Hamu

Canrauv," which are invariably the first to be ploughed. As a rule

they are the property of the local aristocracy. The owner with his

wife, who plays the principal part in the ceremony, goes to the field

in question, either in the evening or at dawn. They lay down a mat at

one corner and on it place two eggs, a cup of spirits and three betel

leaves, which the wife offers as a sacrifice to Pô Olwah Tak Alâ, the

great Lord of the Underworld, begging him to accept them. To set a

good example, husband and wife share the good things between them

while making three furrows round the field. After this ceremony

ploughing and sowing may proceed in the ordinary manner.

There are also fields where cultivation is forbidden, the "Hamû Klaik

Lavâ." To speak more accurately the interdict only extends to open

cultivation and the tabooed area is ploughed and worked in secret.

These operations are accomplished in the following manner. With the

first signs of day the husband and wife go to the field and after

making three furrows in silence return home. When morning comes they

walk to the place and profess the greatest astonishment that the work

of ploughing has already begun. "Who is the kindly Spirit," they

exclaim, "who has worked for us while we slept?" Without loss of time

they run back to their house to fetch suitable offerings. So great a

marvel as a field which cultivates itself is worthy to be consecrated

with a sacrifice. Accordingly they first bury five pieces of betel in

the ground and throw a handful of rice into the three magic furrows,

after which plough and bullocks are sprinkled with holy water and the

remaining operations may be carried out without further concealment.

A sacrifice is offered as soon as the stalks have emerged from the

ground and are tall enough "to hide the doves." Another marks the

moment of flowering, and a third, the most important, celebrates the

time of harvest. On this last occasion the owner cuts off the heads of

three of the stalks and wraps them up in a cloth. The next step is to

pass them through the smoke of a fire in which several pieces of

eagle-wood are burning. These ears are the first-fruits offered to the

goddess Pô Nögar, and they are afterwards hung in the owner's house

until the next sowing time comes round. The same field will then be

sown from the rice thus gathered.

For "unconsecrated" ricefields the ritual is less complicated. When

the harvesting is due the oldest woman of the group is selected to cut

three tufts, which she sets with much pomp against the bank which

borders the field and harangues the grain as yet ungathered in the

following terms:

"Follow the example you see here before you and you will be worthy of

a place in my barns." After this address harvesting proceeds without

interruption.

When the grain is safely gathered in, the Cham believe that it sleeps

all day and only awakes at night. It would be the height of

desecration and imprudence to disturb its slumbers, and consequently

we soon learnt the futility of asking our hosts for paddy in the

daytime. We were invariably informed that we must wait until night. It

was only at a late hour that the owner would consent to open the door

of his barn and give us what we wanted.

There was a very curious rite, fallen into desuetude since our

occupation in 1888, which accompanied the gathering of the precious

essence known as eagle-wood or aloe-wood. This substance is mentioned

in the Bible, the Egyptian papyri, and by many Greek, Hindu and Arab

writers. It seems to have been used extensively for embalming the

dead, as also for combining with camphor to make a kind of incense

burnt in the temples. It appears under different names, "ahalot" in

Hebrew, "aghäluhy" in Arabic, "ἀγάλλοχον" in Greek, "agaru" in

Sanscrit. The Cham call it "galao." Portuguese explorers, who seem to

have been the first to discover its commercial value, used the Arabic

name and translated it "pao de Aguila." In Latin this becomes "lignum

aquilae," and so, in modern tongues, "eagle-wood," or "agal-wood,"

"adlerholz," and "bois d'aigle."

This essence has attracted the attention of travellers of all nations

owing to its various properties, and was formerly a commercial product

of great importance among the Cham. It is found all over this region,

which seems to have been the land of its origin, for it is never met

with further north than the thirteenth or fourteenth degree of

latitude.

Botanists are not yet agreed as to the class of trees from which it is

produced. The most up-to-date investigators assert that it is produced

by diseases due to malnutrition in certain trees such as the

_aquilaria secundaria_, _aloexylum agallochum_, and _aquilaria

agallocha_, all of the family of the _aquilarinæa_. It is an aromatic

substance with a slightly resinous odour and bitter to the taste.

The natives distinguish three varieties, according to their commercial

value. The first quality, which is almost impossible to find to-day,

commanded a price of no less than fifty-four pounds a kilogramme. The

medium quality was worth sixteen pounds for the same quantity, and the

cheapest quality was worth rather more than one pound a kilogramme.

The variety of uses to which this accommodating substance can be put

is astonishing, though it is not suitable for cabinet-making.

It is largely used for incense. When thrown into a fire it melts like

wax and gives off an odour which is supposed to be particularly

pleasing to the Gods. Certain other of its properties are no less

useful to man, who values more material favours. Thus, for example, it

has very great value as a safeguard against dysentery, which is

prevalent throughout Indo-China. No Mandarin in all this region

ventures forth on a journey without having a supply of this

indispensable medicine with him.

Of course, the oriental imagination is not content to confine the

virtues of this substance to those which have been demonstrated by

actual experience. The supernatural is bound to appear somewhere, and

accordingly all kinds of magical powers are also attributed to it.

Thus every person who bears this talisman will never succumb, however

long he may be deprived of food. On the contrary, his body will no

longer be subjected to earthly necessities but will enter on a state

of divinity which requires no sustenance. The Mandarins have every

reason to appreciate this arrangement, especially at the time of their

presentation at the Imperial Court at Hué. Etiquette exacts that until

the Sovereign actually enters the throne-room they must remain quite

motionless, and they sometimes find themselves compelled to stand for

hours without stirring!

With properties so invaluable as this, it is hardly to be wondered at

that eagle-wood figured largely in the gifts presented by the

sovereign of Annam to the Emperor of China by way of tribute every

three years. To ensure a sufficient supply, all trade in this

substance, whether for home or export, was strictly prohibited, but

the prohibition was removed after our occupation, when the obligation

of tribute was suspended and finally annulled.

According to Masoudi, the celebrated Arab writer, eagle-wood has a

celestial origin.

"After the Fall, when Adam had been driven from Heaven by the

angel, he fled to Mount Rahoun in the island of Ceylon. Before

leaving Paradise, however, he contrived to snatch some leaves

from the trees and sewed them together to make a garment. To

his astonishment they shrivelled up immediately and the winds

scattered them to every corner of India. It is said, but of the

truth God alone can judge, that these remnants of our first

father's vestment gave birth to all the perfumes of Asia, and,

among them, to eagle-wood."

Other legends of Hindu origin say that the aloes tree grew in an

earthly paradise and that fragments of it were swept over the face of

the globe by a series of floods.

It is also said that the tree originally grew only on the tops of

inaccessible mountains where fearful monsters or wild beasts guarded

it from the greedy hands of man.

However that may be, it is certain that at the present time the public

is not interested in the origin of this substance so much as its

exploitation for commercial purposes. An industry formerly so

flourishing should be systematically revived, if only for its

prospective financial importance.

Balap, where the members of our mission remained for some time, is

celebrated as the residence of Pô Galao, the "Lord of the Eagle-wood,"

on whom devolved in former times the duty of supervising the gathering

of the precious substance. His associates were sixteen men of the same

village and a certain number of the "Raglaï" Moï, a group living in

the neighbourhood whose keen sense of smell is vital to success. A

good nose is of far greater importance than good sight, for eagle-wood

exhales a characteristic odour which has to be detected from among the

various smells of the virgin forest. Indeed the task of finding the

tree is beset with difficulties. The undergrowth is so thick, the

vegetation so hardy and rampant, that progress can only be made by

clearing a path with knife and hatchet. The decaying vegetation is a

prolific source of fevers. It is easily understood that with so many

perils ahead the expedition never sets out without a preliminary

sacrifice to the deities who can assure or withhold success. Of these

deities the most important to appease are the four tutelary divinities

of the valley of Phanrang. To earn their goodwill it is necessary to

build a special barn for the sacrifice and make offerings of a goat,

cooked rice, eggs and spirits.

As soon as the expedition starts the searchers are bound by a

religious law of silence. Should any member of the party speak it

would be almost certain that the wood would lose its perfume, and

therefore all its value.

Of course, an occasional direction to the "Raglaï" Moï is unavoidable,

and for this purpose the Cham make use of certain brief vivid

expressions. For example, if they wish to indicate an axe they say

"the wood-pecker." When they want to speak of fire they say "the red."

For a long time it was believed that this conventional language was a

form of religious speech, somewhat similar to the "Bhasa Hantu," or

language of the Spirit, employed by the Malays. Further research,

however, has proved that these expressions are confined to a few

detached words borrowed from the Raglaï dialect and used by the Cham

to communicate with them alone.

The women who remain behind in the villages are strictly forbidden to

quarrel amongst themselves while their husbands are away looking for

eagle-wood. A breach of this regulation would mean that the men would

run grave risk of being attacked by tigers or bitten by serpents. The

cynical, however, assert that even this evil possibility is

insufficient to preserve harmony in the village!

While I was at Malam near Phantiet I was present at the annual

festival of the Cham Bani of that village. The ceremony is known as

"Raja," a name which is also applied to the priestess who officiates.

On reaching the courtyard of the compound to which I was invited I

observed a large hut and several sheds ornamented with branches of

trees on which sheets of coarse cotton were spread. The sheds served

to accommodate the many guests who, like myself, had accepted the

invitation to be present at the festival. The hut was devoted to the

ceremonies of ancestor-worship, which were that day celebrated.

This building faced the east. On entering I immediately noticed at the

back of the room a kind of trough serving as an altar. From the

ceiling hung paper figures of boats, carts, animals and various

domestic objects. In the middle of the room, suspended from the two

principal beams, was a swing with its seat covered with

brightly-coloured materials, which took on a strangely gay and

barbaric aspect under the lights of many little candles.

The native orchestra comprised a flute, a stringed instrument with

some resemblance to a guitar, gongs and tambourines. The conductor,

who seemed to be the principal performer, also improvised on a flat

drum, timing his melodious drone to fill the intervals when the

priestess was resting.

The latter, clothed in a long white robe and with a wreath of flowers

in her hair, joined with an assistant priest in the steps of a

saraband. Together they gave vent to their feelings in dancing,

singing, prayers, imprecations, tears, grinding of teeth and hypnotic

ecstasies, all with the object of appeasing the shades of the

ancestors. Suddenly the priestess seated herself on the swing in the

narrow passage left between the candles. She swung herself slowly to

and fro, running her hands up and down the supporting ropes and

droning through endless prayers. When she had finished the priest

followed her example and went through the same rigmarole. So curious

was the scene that I could not resist the malevolent idea of taking a

photograph and without reflection I fired a piece of magnesium ribbon.

Woe to me for my impatience! In the confusion which followed the flash

both I and my camera were almost upset. I had purposely given the

company no notice of my intention in order to avoid the "posing" which

self-conscious sitters cannot avoid. The Faithful, in their amazement,

had taken the sudden apparition as an emanation of the Gods

themselves. Something more than explanations was necessary to allay

the general alarm, and it was only after a generous distribution of

tobacco that I was able to restore some measure of harmony.

The religious celebrations lasted three days, interspersed with feasts

and other diversions, notably an acrobatic display by a performer who

roused his audience to a frenzy of enthusiasm. At the beginning of

each feast a priest called all the deities by name and executed the

movements of a dance in their honour. These evolutions are an

invitation to the divinities to take their place in the celebrations.

At dawn on the second day the priestess filled with cakes and fruit a

toy boat hollowed out of the trunk of a banana-tree by some ingenious

artisan. In this frail canoe a rag monkey was placed, squatting on its

haunches in a very grotesque position. The boat was meant to

commemorate the vessel which in former days came from China every

three years to fetch the tribute exacted from a vassal state.

After this the roysterers fell upon the improvised temple and hacked

it to pieces amongst general rejoicings.

The next day, by way of applying the closure to the festivities, the

whole crowd, headed by the priest and priestess, marched to a

neighbouring canal, taking the symbolical boat with them. While the

orchestra poured forth an unmelodious symphony the lilliputian vessel

was entrusted to the waters, in which it speedily filled and

disappeared.

There are strong resemblances between this Cham ceremony and the

celebrations in India which mark the changes of the monsoon. In this

latter country travellers find the same gaily bedecked sheds, the same

rude figures cut out of paper, and the same swing scene. The Hindus

regard the backward and forward movement of the swing as a symbol of

the movements of the seasons.

Most of the rites which obtain among the Cham, in fact, recall the

ritual observances of the Vedic and Brahminic religions, of which the

following are among the most characteristic features.

The place selected for the crowning act of sacrifice, "Devayajana," is

always an open space, whether at a cross-roads or in an enclosure. The

improvised temple is made of branches or clods of earth and is

invariably destroyed by the worshippers after the solemn ceremony is

over.

Each sacrifice is regarded as the conclusion of a treaty between the

gods and mortals. The value of the offering is in proportion to the

extent of the favours desired. Most sacrifices are for heat or rain,

two necessaries of life without which neither health nor prosperity is

possible.

The officiating priest and his bodyguard of acolytes are housed and

fed at the expense of the "Yajamana," the individual for whose

ultimate benefit the benevolence of the gods is solicited. I ought to

add that the previous life and blamelessness of this person have

nothing to do with the efficacy of the sacrifice. On the contrary, the

only thing that matters is the exact, punctilious observance of the

rite itself.

It is plain that intellect plays little part in these religious

ceremonies. Throughout, each act is designed to fire the imagination

and arouse the emotions, rather than carry conviction.

It is equally certain that rites of undoubted Dravidian origin are to

be observed among the Cham. The common denominator of all the

religions of India is the worship of divinities personifying the earth

or the elements, generally in the shape of a woman, and almost always

considered malevolent.

Horrible sacrifices are offered to appease them, and the religious

ceremonies usually terminate in the most abandoned orgies. The

presiding priest, or "Devil Dancer," after a series of frantic

contortions, falls to the ground in a hypnotic trance, during which

the incoherent expressions that fall from his lips are greedily noted

and repeated by the Faithful, who regard them as the words of Divinity

itself.

For a last example there are certain fêtes, such as the "Durgapuja" in

Bengal, marked by buffoonery and pantomime, in which the worshippers

conclude the ceremonies by carrying a statue of the goddess in

procession to the river banks, and casting it into the waters to the

strains of an ear-shattering orchestra.

CHAPTER V

RITES AND SUPERSTITIONS (_continued_)

Burial rites--Philology--Legends and fables.

The exorcisms of the "Padjao" directed towards expelling disease from

the bodies of the Cham are too similar to those of the Moï sorceress

to merit description, which would be little more than repetition.

On the other hand, the burial rites of the Kaphir Cham are highly

characteristic.

Children who die before the age of puberty, and therefore not

initiated into the full rights and mysteries of manhood, are buried in

the earth, while adults of both sexes are cremated. The reason for

this distinction is not far to seek. The adults are regarded as a

class set apart with its own complex of funeral rites and observances.

Further, those who die while still of tender years die in innocence

and need no such purification from their sins as is implied in the

practice of submitting the bodies of their elders to the scourge of

fire.

After death the spirits of the little ones are supposed to dwell in

the bodies of rats, and their memory is perpetuated from time to time

by ceremonies in which the head of the family, clad in a new robe for

the occasions, makes offerings, waves his hands in the air to imitate

the movements of a bird, performs certain mystical passes, and puts a

red flower in a bronze vase.

The burial rites which are still practised by the Kaphir Cham of

Phanrang and Phanry serve as excellent comments on the duties of the

priest in case of the death of any inhabitant of a village.

The fundamental notion on which all the observances are based is that

the soul of the deceased must have a new body in which it may take

refuge after the loss of its earthly dwelling-place. All the

ceremonies are designed to create this new body. It is universally

agreed that rice alone can operate the necessary transformation, and

as the rice must be of the finest quality procurable, each family

preserves the best stalks from the harvest and lays them up in

anticipation of a death.

When the dread moment arrives the selected grains are mixed in a bowl

into which a gold ring, symbol of immortality, has been dropped. The

priest now glues a few grains together with melted wax to form a soft

round ball, which is introduced under the dead man's tongue. A few

mystical passes, and the soul leaves its old shell for the new

ætherial body thus called into existence. The next and last step is to

give the soul its necessary directions. These depend upon the manner

of life of the deceased. Virtuous men are sent to the sun, women

against whom there is no reproach to the moon. If the credit and

debit items of a man's moral account balance out he is dispatched to

the planets. The wicked are dispersed among the clouds, as are also

the poor and lowly, an inequitable disposition worthy of a theocracy!

The actual ceremony of cremation follows after a period which is

determined by the state of the corpse and the financial position of

the deceased's family. From the moment of death to the cremation

custom exacts that all visitors to the family should be housed and fed

at the expense of the relations. These visitors come to keep the

deceased company and pretend to entertain him by their wit and

conversation. They also cheer up the relations and do their best to

keep sorrow at a convenient distance.

The family build a special shed under which the corpse is laid, after

having been dressed in eight robes, one over the other. Thus swathed

in white linen the body looks exactly like a package with the head,

covered with a thin veil, emerging from one end. It is strictly

forbidden to offer any nourishment to the deceased before he leaves

his own house. The bed on which the corpse is laid is turned towards

the south and surmounted by a kind of canopy from which hang birds cut

out of paper. It seems that the function of this winged escort is to

conduct the soul to its future home. Clumps of hemp and various foods

are strewn around the bier and the walls of the shed are hung with

martial trophies.

[Illustration:

_Photo by_] [_A. Cabaton._

Cremation in Cambodia: The Head of the Procession.]

[Illustration:

_Photo by_] [_A. Cabaton._

A Catafalque upon which several Bodies are being carried away for

Cremation.]

[Illustration:

_Photo by_] [_A. Cabaton._

The Hearse and Bearers at an Annamese Funeral.]

[Illustration:

_Photo. by_] [_A. Cabaton._

The Altar of his Ancestors which accompanies the Deceased.]

Three times a day the priestess prepares a meal for the deceased.

An orchestra plays from morning to night almost without intermission.

It is soon plain that this lying-in-state, so far from being a rite of

mourning, is more like a festival. The guests consume enormous

quantities of food and drink, and only the unfortunate relations are

under ban to refrain from meat until after the cremation.

When at length the great day arrives the priests construct a

catafalque adorned with paper figures, the mourners line up in

procession behind, and all proceed to the appointed place. Every

villager dons his white scarf--white being the colour of

mourning--brandishes a spear, sword, or flag, and joins in the

cortège. The bearers perform the most remarkable evolutions with the

body, carrying it now feet first, now head first, or turning it round

and round in order to confuse the spirit and prevent it from finding

its way back. This essential object is also secured by a priest, known

on these occasions as "Pô Damoeun," "Lord of Sorrow," who remains in

the house of the deceased, shuts himself in, and calls on every

object, animate and inanimate, to prevent the soul from entering and

molesting the living.

When the funeral procession is within a hundred yards from the exit

from the village a priest takes a spade and marks out the spot

destined for the funeral pyre. Wood is brought and piled up and the

corpse is stripped of its wrappings and offered its last meal. As soon

as the flames break out the clothes of the deceased are thrown into

them. Now comes the moment, marked by the passage of the soul to the

life beyond, when the living send gifts to their dead relations. Each

man writes his list of presents on a slip of paper and then burns it.

The list is exhaustive, including such homely and necessary articles

as a pipe, spittoon and the inevitable receptacle for betel and lime.

Even underclothing and small change are not forgotten. During the

progress of the conflagration the spectators joke and chatter

together, leaving the serious business of desolation to the hired

mourners, who weep aloud and tear their hair. At the conclusion of the

ceremony the frontal bone of the deceased is carefully broken in nine

pieces, which are collected in a metal box, the "klong," a special

kind of urn. Every man provides himself with one of these receptacles

in anticipation of his own death, but the usual practice is to conceal

it in some place known only to his family, as it is not altogether

pleasant to be perpetually reminded of the terror to come.

The fragments of bone are now subjected to a long and tedious process

of purification, after which they are buried at the foot of a tree,

which is carefully noted, as being only a temporary depository. For

the next seven years on each anniversary the family dig up the box,

carry it back to their house, and offer sacrifices in its honour.

After the seventh year the interment is permanent. A spot is chosen

near to the best of the family ricefields, trees are planted round it,

and a tombstone is erected.

Sometimes the rites require that for the first interment the "klong"

of a man and a woman must be used together. It follows that in small

families where many years may elapse between the deaths of its members

the first "klong" runs a great risk of exceeding its seven compulsory

years of waiting before reaching its final resting-place.

The direction in which the urn is placed varies with the sex of the

deceased. The "klong" of a woman points to the west, that of a man to

the east.

I have described these rites at some length on account of their

intrinsic interest, but it would be illuminating to compare them with

similar ceremonies obtaining among other groups.

The Man Quan Trang, or "white-breeched" Man of Tonkin, bury the hair

and portions of the nails and bones in a different place from that of

the corpse itself. The reason for this is that these fragments are

considered the abode of the Material Soul and the Vital Spirits.

The Bouriates of Siberia bury some of the bones of their priests at

the foot of a tree.

The Egyptians made a set speech to their dead, in which they gave

directions for the guidance of the soul to the distant regions, and

enumerated a list of necessary articles to accompany it. The

recitation of these articles dispensed with the necessity of

furnishing them. The will was thus considered as good as the deed.

Lastly the funeral rites I have described find analogies among the

Laotians and the peoples of Cambodia. Here also a death is celebrated

as a happy event, as being merely a step to a new existence far more

blessed than the life on earth. The face of the corpse is covered with

a mask in gold leaf which is moulded to the features, and the process

of decomposition is retarded by the introduction of mercury. The

catafalque is large or small according to the social position of the

deceased. A king, for example, has a regular monument known as the

"Mén." A Minister of State or a High Priest is honoured with a rather

smaller edifice, while those of humble estate have to be content with

a simple pyramid. A large white cloth is hung over the catafalque, of

which the opening is guarded by a small figure in the mask of a

monkey. This is "Yéac," a subject of Couvera, the God of Riches, whose

statue adorns every place where a mystical transformation is to be

accomplished. The quaint figure holds in its hand a reel of white

cotton, of which one end is secured to the coffin and which will guide

the soul after it has left the body. The torch which fires the funeral

pyre is lit at a brasier which contains the sacred embers which must

never be extinguished. When cremation is complete the bones are

collected into a box made of precious metal, which is buried under a

tower, the height of which varies with the wealth of the deceased.

All these rites, however much they vary among themselves in detail,

seem to be based on the same popular ideas of the significance of

death.

* * * * *

Like ourselves, the Cham write from left to right. Their alphabet

varies in different regions. In Cambodia it comprises four vowels, two

diphthongs, and twenty-nine consonants. In Annam there are five short

vowels, five long vowels, and four diphthongs. Both of these alphabets

have two special signs which correspond to the "Anusvara" and

"Visarga" of Sanscrit. There are also certain signs usually employed

in conjunction with the vowels which influence their pronunciation.

With the exception of the figures 4 and 0 the numerals are only a

modified form of the letters.

The popular pen is a short bamboo cut to a point and manipulated like

a paint-brush. The European pen is, however, coming into fashion with

the progress of Western ideas.

In Cambodia manuscripts are written in a beautiful free hand on paper

of Western form and manufacture. On the other hand, the Cham of Annam

use sheets of rice-paper of tremendous size imported from China.

Occasionally the traveller meets with inscriptions made with a needle

on palm-leaves.

The priests of Annam employ a hieratic writing, which they call "Akhar

Rik," especially for such purposes as engraving magical inscriptions

on amulets. A secret system and an abbreviated system are also used

when occasion requires.

A curious feature of their books is that the authors display a

tendency to coin new words from Sanscrit or Arabic roots even when the

idea expressed in those roots has only the remotest similarity to the

meaning they wish the word to convey.

The Cham Bani of Phanrang are the proud possessors of the manuscript

of a Bible, the text of which has been modified in many places by

Mohammedan influence. The truth of this will be demonstrated from the

examples translated by Father Durand.

"This Book tells the story of the beginnings of Earth and

Heaven.... The creation of the Sun God and the Moon Goddess.

The Lord Uwlwah--Allah--then created the Pô Adam and the woman

Hawā, whom he took from the man's side.... Their children

numbered nine and ninety, an equal(!) number of boys and girls.

They died in the Kingdom of Judah."

Then follow the story of the flood, the lives of Abraham and David,

without conspicuous discrepancies.

"The son of Nabi Dalawat--Daoud, David--(the Cham have no final

d) was called the Nabi Suleiman--Solomon. Allah commanded him

to build the Caabah--temple--and gave him a mountain of gold

and silver. Suleiman covered the walls of his Caabah with these

precious metals and it became wondrously beautiful. He was

appointed Chief of the Priests therein.... Then Nabi

Esā--Issa, Jesus--was born in the country of Baitelem and

him Allah took to himself.... Then Mohammat--Mahomet--for forty

years decreed all the Doctrine in the Kingdom of

Makah--Mecca--and died in the Kingdom of Madjanah--Medina....

Then Adam and Hawā produced the seven Royalties. The sum of

these seven epochs gives the total of 7306 years to the cyclic

year of the Tiger....

"That is all...."

The Cham, like the Kmer, have taken little trouble over the

composition of their legends and fables.

Apart from certain legends which by internal evidence and local

flavour can only be regarded as having originated among the Cham, all

the others are more or less successful adaptations of Hindu tales. In

almost all countries, and conspicuously in the Far East, popular fancy

fastens and feeds on the fabulous, or, at least, incredibly romantic,

adventures of the ancient Kings. It is at least true to say that these

adventures furnish a canvas on which imagination has worked wondrous

pictures.

The origin of the special tight-fitting costume worn by the Cham women

is explained on this wise.

In the darkness of the Past a Cham Prince named Hon Hoî declared war

on a Laotian Princess, whose ricefields he coveted. In accordance with

the customs of the women of her race, the Princess, Diep Lieu, was

arrayed in nothing more than a scanty covering of bamboo fibres. The

barbarity and ignorance of her subjects was incredible. All buying

and selling went on by night, and in the darkness it was impossible to

determine the quality of the wares displayed except by their fine

smell. The Prince had no difficulty in overwhelming her forces and

making her his prisoner. But she found favour in his sight, and within

a short time she exchanged captivity for freedom and honour as his

wife. The Prince, however, was shocked at the summary attire of his

betrothed and for the wedding-day he gave her a costume of his own

making. This was a kind of sack, at the top of which was a narrow hole

for the head to come through. The Cham also honour the thesis that

imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, so the women adopted this

new mode with avidity, and it has survived all the attacks of time and

feminine caprice.

* * * * *

A legend has gathered round each of the kings who has been raised to

the ranks of divinity by the Cham. Pô Klong Garai was born of a Virgin

Mother, Pô Sah Ineu, who rose alive from the waves. Though hardly yet

a woman she conceived her son while sipping water from a stream which

flowed through a rock. The child was smitten with the horror of

leprosy from birth. While he rested near a rock, a dragon emerged from

a cavern, licked the sores caused by the fell disease, and the child

was immediately cured. From that day he felt himself endowed with

matchless celestial powers. On one occasion, when about to make a

distant journey, and at a loss for a receptacle in which to carry

water he saw a pumpkin.

At the first touch of his hand the fruit broke its stalk and offered

its services as a gourd. When this magician became King he built

several dams in the valley of Phanrang and turned an arid desert into

a fertile plain. So great were his services to his people that finally

the gods rewarded him by calling him to be one of themselves.

Hardly less humble in origin than this prince was Pô Romé. He also was

born of a Virgin Mother, whom the family drove from their doors in

horror at the alleged crime. Nature, too, was not more kindly to the

tiny bastard, who had neither arms nor legs and rolled over the ground

like a cocoa-nut (a peculiarity from which he soon took that name). In

spite of his deformity, however, the reigning sovereign praised him to

his mother and appointed him to guard the cattle. Destiny was watching

over him and a Dragon soon appeared to tell him of all the glories the

future had in store. Warned of the approaching miracle by the court

astrologers, the King set himself to win the regard of one who might

one day prove a formidable rival to himself. He finally decided to

abdicate in the young man's favour and added to his benefits by giving

him the hand of his daughter in marriage and two other wives of the

second and third degree. But Cocoa-nut was not happy even with his

three wives. Hardly had he ascended the throne than he lost his crown

through the artifices of his second wife. This lady was the daughter

of the King of Annam who coveted his neighbour's lands and was not

above treachery to secure them. At this time the tutelary deity of the

Cham was shut up in the trunk of a tree, known as the "Kraik," and so

long as this tree was alive no misfortune could befall the race

beneath its ægis. The second wife, adopting the counsel of her evil

father, pretended to be smitten with a grave malady. She refused all

cures and asserted that her only hope was the destruction of the

Kraik. Cocoa-nut, who had a strong affection for this wife, had her

carefully examined by the four most eminent medicine-men of his

kingdom. All four agreed that the illness was a sham, and all four

paid for their truthfulness with their heads. Meanwhile the lady's

condition seemed to go from bad to worse, and the King decided to fell

with his own hand the tree on which hung the destinies of his people.

Streams of blood flowed from the smitten trunk and soaked the ground

around. The King had not long to wait for retribution. Betrayed by his

treacherous spouse, his kingdom was wrested from him and he was hacked

in pieces by his triumphant foe. His incisors alone were restored to

his first wife that she might pay the honour due to his remains. The

ex-Cocoa-nut, become Pô Romé, now dwells among the Gods, but even

there, it seems, his domestic tribulations have pursued him, and he is

often glad, when distracted by the factious quarrels of his

womenfolk, to get away from his palace and leave it to them.

The Cham have a certain partiality for songs and lyrical poems not

destitute of taste and feeling have acquired popularity among them. A

romance which the girls of Phanrang sing on their fishing expeditions

is as follows:

"Do you go forth to set sail, my Lord, that you look at the

leaves for the direction of the wind? Ibrahim, my soul of gold

... hard would it be if you left me....

"Pity your little sister fair as gold itself! Do not leave her,

like an orphan, to wander in the forests where fear and danger

lurk....

"You will stay! Oh joy! Life will be naught but play and

laughter and walks together, hand in hand!"

Finally, there is the skeleton, not much more, of a literature. Here

are some extracts from a bedside book which all girls are supposed to

study before making their own homes.

"Liver and Bile of thy mother, approach, my child, and learn

what a woman should know.

"When thou speakest with thy husband, let thy tone above all be

modest.

"Strive not to appear superior or even as his equal, for the

man it is who should lead the woman.

"My child, the boat will not leave its moorings if the stake is

solid and secure! In a family the husband is the keystone of

the structure!

"The honour he gains goes to the credit of his wife.

"My daughter, ever remember that the happiness of a household

lies in the hands of the wife. She must not waste the goods he

entrusts to her.

"Waste not then the least trifle. See that every door has

always its bolt.... Follow these precepts and wert thou as

hideous as an ape thou shalt keep the love of thy husband, for

thy presence shall be more profitable to him than a bar of

gold, were it the height of a cocoa-nut tree...."

Of such homely advice consists the very ancient manuscript which Moura

translated and which escaped the wreck in which all the others were

lost.

I expect modern young ladies will find these mother's words somewhat

out of date. But what European husband would not occasionally envy the

Cham so perfect a partner?

THE END

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_Printed at The Chapel River Press, Kingston, Surrey._

FOOTNOTES

[1] According to the measurements of Dr. Noël Bernard the cephalic

index of the living male is 76. The transverse nasal index varies

between 84 and 95.

[2] Pronounced Tiam, Tiampa. Ch = tia.

[3] _Les Tjames et leurs religions_, by Aymonier. _Nouvelles

Recherches sur les Cham_, by A. Cabaton.

[4] See Bibliography at end.

* * * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Diacritical markings have been made consistent. Otherwise the text,

including hyphenated variants, has been transcribed as printed.

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