There is another mode of separating the gold from the _cascalho_ called

canoe-washing, which is extremely interesting. The canoes are made in

the following manner:—Two ten or twelve-inch planks, about twelve or

fifteen feet in length, are laid on the ground, forming an inclined

plane, sloping about one inch in twelve: two other planks of similar

dimensions are fixed in the same direction at the lower end, forming a

second inclined plane, with a fall of six inches from the former. On

their sides are boards placed edge-wise, and staked down to the ground

so as to form long shallow troughs, the bottoms of which are covered

with hides tanned with the hair on, having the hairy side outwards, or,

in defect of these, with rough baize. Down these troughs is conveyed

the water containing the oxide of iron and the lighter particles of

gold; the latter substance precipitating in its course is entangled by

the hair. Every half hour the hides are taken up, and carried to a tank

near at hand, formed of four walls, say five feet long, four broad,

and four deep, and containing about two feet depth of water. The hides

are stretched over this tank and well beaten, then dipped and beaten

repeatedly, until all the gold is disentangled, after which they are

carried back and replaced in the troughs. The tanks are locked up at

nights, and well secured. The sediment taken from them being light, is

easily washed away by the hand in the manner before described, leaving

only the black oxide of iron, called _esmeril_, and the gold, which is

so fine that mercury is used to separate it. The process, as I saw it

performed, was as follows: About two pounds weight of oxide of iron,

very rich in fine grains of gold, was put into a clean bowl; a quantity

of mercury, about two ounces, was added to it; the mass of oxide, which

was very damp, was worked by the hand for about twenty minutes, when

the mercury appeared to have separated the _esmeril_, and to have taken

up all the gold, assuming a soft doughy mass, that retained any form

into which it was squeezed. The grains of gold, however, remained, not

amalgamated with, but merely enveloped in the mercury. The mass was put

into a folded handkerchief, and an ounce or more of mercury was wrung

or squeezed from it. The rest was put into a small brass dish, covered

with a few green leaves, and then placed over a charcoal fire, where it

was stirred with an iron rod to prevent the gold from adhering to the

sides of the dish. The leaves were occasionally changed as they became

parched by the heat. When taken off, they exhibited, in some parts,

small globules of mercury, and in others white oxide; on washing them

with water, nearly half an ounce of the former substance was obtained

from them[40]. I ever observed that the gold, after this operation,

was changed in color from an agreeable soft yellow to a dirty brown,

and presented a very different appearance from that which was not

subjected to mercury.

By way of suggesting an improvement, I made some drawings and models of

earthen vessels for evaporating, and afterwards condensing the mercury;

but the quantity of gold in the hands of individuals requiring this

mode of separation is so inconsiderable, that it would scarcely be

worth their while to alter the process now practised.

I rode over various parts of the estate, and more particularly along

both banks of the river, which, as well as the bed, appeared to have

been much washed. The bends, or parts where eddies were formed, were

the places noted as being rich in gold. Wherever the margin formed a

flat, or level, the _cascalho_ continued under the surface to some

distance, appearing like a continuation of the bed of the river, which,

in all probability, it was, as the river is known to have been much

wider formerly. The parts that were then working, and others that had

yet to be worked, bore a very unpromising appearance.

An opportunity was soon afforded me of carrying into execution the

proposed dairy experiment. Having obtained about six quarts of milk,

(which, on account of the scarcity of grass, was very poor), I put it

into the culinary vessels that had been set apart for it; but such

was the state of the place in which they were deposited, that that

though I placed banana leaves over them, the surface next morning was

covered with dust. I took off the cream in the best manner I could,

but not being able to find a cellar or cold place for it to stand in,

I was obliged to leave it in the same room with the milk, where it was

hardly secure against the pigs. On each of the two following mornings,

I obtained about two gallons of milk, which, being added to the other,

was in due time churned; and, notwithstanding the disadvantages of poor

milk, improper utensils, and bad keeping, a tolerably fair proportion

of good butter was obtained. The people seemed highly satisfied with

the success of the process; but I had strong doubts that they would

not pursue it after my departure, as they must naturally dislike

the trouble and care which it required. Such was the force of their

habitual and long-cherished prejudices, that I have no hesitation

in saying they would take ten times more pains to procure forty

shillings-worth of gold, at an expense of thirty shillings, than they

would to obtain forty-shillings worth of butter, though it were only to

cost them five.

It may be expected that I should assign some reasons for entering so

frequently into detail upon one of the simplest branches of rural

economy. I have to observe, then, that ere I left Rio de Janeiro to

undertake this journey, I was informed that the cheese generally

consumed in that capital, and regarded there as a luxury, was the

produce of the district to which I was going. Its taste was sometimes

so extremely rancid and disagreeable, as to be utterly unwholesome, and

from this circumstance I judged that there must be great mismanagement

in the preparation of it. All the farms which I had occasion to visit

on my journey to Villa Rica, and from thence to this place, fully

confirmed my opinion; for, miserable as was the condition of every

department belonging to them, that of the dairy was still worse. In

the few places where they pretended to prepare milk for cheese, not

only were the various utensils in an extremely filthy condition,

but the rennet was so putrid as to be in the last degree sickening.

I endeavoured to make the people sensible of the advantages of an

improved mode of management, and wherever I had an opportunity, gave

them information how to proceed; but as oral or written instructions

were little calculated to make a durable impression, I determined, when

leisure and convenience should concur, to enforce them by example. The

first and only opportunity of this kind presented itself at the Fazenda

do Barro; and I was the more induced to avail myself of it, from

considering that the precedent which I wished to give to the farmers

of the district, would have greater influence by being sanctioned by

the approval of His Excellency the Conde de Linhares. The result, as

I have just observed, was not very flattering to my hopes; a solitary

experiment can do little towards reforming a general evil of long

continuance; and there is no probability that this or any other branch

of the farming system of the country will be improved, until the great

and the opulent zealously unite for the accomplishment of an object so

highly important.

In our excursions through various parts of the estate, we observed on

the exterior of many of the trees a great variety of crimson lichens,

which, on being steeped in water, imparted a very strong tinge of that

color. Here were excellent barks for tanning, particularly that of a

tree called Canafistula, which does not redden or color the hide. We

found many beautiful varieties of the jacarandá, or rose-wood.

Having resided at Barro some days, we set out for the Fazenda de

Castro, distant about seven miles, where we arrived, after a pleasant

ride over a mountainous and finely-wooded district, containing large

tracts of rich virgin land, watered by many excellent streams. This

noble mansion was erected by the first possessor of the district,

Senhor Mathias Barboza. It is very spacious and airy, having a gallery

in front forty-eight yards long, to which open fourteen folding-doors,

or windows, extending nearly from the top to the bottom of the rooms.

It is situated near the confluence of the Ribeiro do Carmo and the Rio

Gualacha, which form the San Jose, a river as large as the Thames at

Battersea.

We did not rest above an hour at this _fazenda_, it being our

intention to visit the _aldea_ or village of S. José da Barra Longa,

situated on the confines of the territory inhabited by the Buticudos

Indians. Crossing the river by a fine wooden bridge, built about fifty

years ago, but still in tolerable repair, we proceeded along the bank,

which was embellished with several gardens, and presented more frequent

appearances of cultivation than we had of late been accustomed to

view. The climate is much hotter than at Villa Rica, on account of the

lowness of the situation; and we were informed that fruits of every

kind, particularly the pine, grew in this soil to great perfection in

size and fineness of flavor. The truth of these accounts we could not

ascertain, as this was not the fruit season.

After travelling about four miles, we arrived at the village. It

being Sunday, numbers of people had come from various parts in the

neighbourhood to attend divine service, and, after it was over, flocked

in crowds to the place where we alighted. It appeared as if the whole

population of the village, men, women, and children, were possessed

with the same spirit of curiosity, so great was their eagerness to get

a sight of us. We dined in a mixed company of ladies and gentlemen, at

the house of the worthy vicar, who kept a very hospitable table, and

paid us the most flattering attention. A military officer and a judge,

who were of the party, entered into conversation with us; and it was

difficult to decide who were the most inquisitive, they, respecting

the motives and objects of our journey, or we, respecting the state of

the country, the Aborigines, &c.

We learnt that the village was founded about twenty-three years ago

by a number of Portuguese, who were tempted to settle, in a spot thus

exposed to the depredations of the Buticudos, by the gold with which

it abounded. At the present day, I was informed that it contains about

four hundred inhabitants, and that the vicinity is well peopled, so

that a sufficient force is always at hand to repel the savages; who, no

longer daring to attack openly, now have often recourse to stratagem.

When they have marked out a house, and ascertained its strength, they

set fire to it by shooting arrows with fire-brands into the roof, and

fall on the unfortunate inhabitants as they are attempting to escape.

These savages, accustomed to live in the woods, and well practised in

all the arts requisite for catching the wild animals on which they

subsist, have a thousand stratagems for way-laying the settlers.

Sometimes they render themselves invisible by tying branches and young

trees about them, and fix their bows imperceptibly, so that, when a

poor negro or white happens to pass near them, they seldom miss their

aim. At other times they rub themselves with ashes and lie on the

ground, or make pit-falls, in which they place pointed stakes, and

cover them with twigs and leaves. They have a great dread of fire-arms,

and betake themselves to flight whenever they hear them: but these

weapons are by no means so general among the settlers as they ought to

be, and the few they have are of very indifferent make, and frequently

altogether useless. It sometimes, though rarely, happens, that the

soldiers surprise the aborigines, in which case no combat takes place;

the latter run away as speedily as possible; and their pursuers, taking

vengeance for injuries sustained, seldom give quarter. Those whom

they make prisoners they are obliged to tie hand and foot, and carry

on a pole to a place of security: if any one of them be loosed but

for a moment, he bursts away, and flees into the woods like a tiger,

leaving his pursuers behind. They are untameable, either by stripes or

kindness; and, if they find no means of escaping from confinement, they

commonly refuse sustenance, and die of hunger.

The injuries occasionally done to settlers by these savages have

excited the attention of Government, who have passed a decisive law

against them. A proclamation has been issued by the Prince Regent, in

which they are invited to live in villages, and become Christians,

under a promise that, if they come to terms of peace and amity with the

Portuguese, their rights shall be acknowledged, and they shall enjoy,

in common with other subjects, the protection of the state; but, if

they persist in their barbarous and inhuman practices, the soldiers

of His Royal Highness are ordered to carry on a war of extermination

against them. Those who are taken prisoners are at the disposal of

their captors as slaves, for the space of ten years. It is doubtful

whether the offers of conciliation contained in this proclamation

will produce in any degree the desired effect; for the Buticudos have

an unconquerable aversion to a settled way of life, and a rooted

antipathy to every other nation; nor have they intelligence enough to

appreciate the benefits of civilized society; so that there appears

no hope of reducing them but by the dreadful alternative proposed in

the latter part of the decree. One reason for having recourse to this

summary mode of dealing with them, which will probably outweigh any

arguments in favor of gentler proceedings, is, that the country they

inhabit contains gold, and the settlers and adventurers are desirous

to obtain speedy possession of it. Some officers, well acquainted with

the locality of the territory, and skilled in the art of conducting an

Indian war, are already employed in this difficult enterprise. About

two leagues from this village is another, called Piranga, situated

near the margin of a river of that name, which at a distance of four

leagues joins the San Jose, and with it forms the Rio Dôce. This river

runs through a fine country, in a northerly and afterwards an easterly

direction, discharging itself into the sea in lat. 19° 30′ south. There

are three islands at its mouth, called Os Tres Irmâos, (the Three

Brothers).

Were this river rendered navigable, what benefits might accrue to

the fine country through which it flows! Large quantities of sugar,

cotton, and other produce, which the soil is capable of growing,

besides excellent timber for exportation, would then form the basis of

an extensive commerce, by stimulating the industry of the planters,

who are at present averse from cultivating beyond the extent of their

own consumption, on account of the heavy expense attendant on a

land-carriage of above five hundred miles to the nearest sea-port.

Piranga is perhaps more exposed to the attacks of the Indians than

the village of San Jose, but there are some gold-washings in its

neighbourhood which tempt the inhabitants to brave that danger. A small

band of horse-soldiers is stationed here to parade the confines, enter

the woods, and go in quest of the natives whenever information is

given. Yet, notwithstanding these precautions, the village is never in

perfect security; a house in its immediate vicinity was surprised a few

months previous to our visit to this district.

We now took leave of the vicar and his guests, and, I may add, of

all the villagers, who came out to salute us as we passed. Returning

to Castro, I remained the whole of the next day to examine the

establishment. It is built, like that at Barro, in the form of a

square, the dwellings of the negroes forming three sides, and the

mansion the fourth, the entrance being in front through a pair of

gates, which, when shut, secure the whole. The rooms in the mansion

were like ancient halls, adorned with carvings, and fitted up and

furnished after the old fashion. Here were blunderbusses, swords, and

other weapons for defence, used in former days, when the house was

liable to the continual attacks of the Buticudos. The stairs, gallery,

and floors, were of fine wood, of a quality which time had not in any

degree perceptibly injured. Attached to the house were the remains

of a sugar-mill, distil-house, corn-mill, and a machine, worked by a

strap and spindles, for spinning cotton, all in a state of neglect. The

whole establishment bore marks of former opulence and grandeur, from

which it appeared to have gradually declined as the gold-washings at

the confluence of the rivers and in other parts had become exhausted.

The negroes were now all removed to Castro, except a few infirm and

sick, who were stationed here to keep the mansion in order, (this being

considered as a light employment for them), until such time as their

convalescence should fit them for resuming their labors along with

their brethren at the other estate.

Having made a sketch of the house, and visited every part which

interested me, I returned by the same road to Barro, where I employed

myself in making a topographical map of the river, distinguishing by

different colors the places already washed for gold, those which were

then washing, and the yet unworked grounds. This sort of map might be

made on a large scale, so as to include a whole district or parish,

where the several mines, or gold-beds, in their different stages, might

be exhibited at one view.

On this estate are employed one hundred and fifty-six negroes, of all

descriptions, who, on such excellent land, producing every necessary

for food and clothing, might be expected to earn considerably more

than their own maintenance; yet a former steward managed so ill for

twenty successive years, that, although he had nothing to purchase but

a little iron, and though the gold-mines were then more productive

than at present, he ran the establishment annually into debt to the

shopkeepers of Villa Rica. A single circumstance may account for this

mismanagement; the noble proprietor resided in Portugal. At present the

estate is in a much more prosperous way, being entrusted to the care of

another steward, and three overseers, all Creolians. The latter receive

a salary of thirty _milrees_ (about nine pounds sterling) _per annum_,

besides their maintenance; their business is to execute the orders of

the steward, and to superintend the labor of the negroes committed to

their charge. They lead a life of extreme indolence, never putting

their hands to any species of work.

The general diet of the country-people in this land of Canaan is

somewhat similar to that of the miners in the vicinity of S. Paulo,

already described. The master, his steward, and the overseers, sit

down to a breakfast of kidney-beans of a black color, boiled, which

they mix with the flour of Indian corn, and eat with a little dry pork

fried or boiled. The dinner generally consists, also, of a bit of pork

or bacon boiled, the water from which is poured upon a dish of the

flour above mentioned, thus forming a stiff pudding. A large quantity

(about half a peck) of this food is poured in a heap in the middle of

the table, and a great dish of boiled beans is set upon it: each person

helps himself in the readiest way, there being only one knife, which is

very often dispensed with. A plate or two of colewort or cabbage-leaves

complete the repast. The food is commonly served up in the earthen

vessels used for cooking it; sometimes on pewter dishes. The general

beverage is water. At supper nothing is seen but large quantities of

boiled greens, with a little bit of poor bacon to flavor them. On any

festival occasion, or when strangers appear, the dinner or supper is

improved by the addition of a stewed fowl.

The food prepared for the negroes is Indian corn-flour, mixed with hot

water, in which a bit of pork has been boiled. This dish serves both

for breakfast and supper. Their dinner consists of beans boiled in the

same way. This unfortunate race of men are here treated with great

kindness and humanity, which, indeed, their good behaviour seems to

deserve. They are allowed as much land as they can, at their leisure,

cultivate, (Sundays and holidays being by law allotted to them for

that purpose), and are permitted to sell or dispose of their produce

as they please. Their owners clothe them with shirts and trowsers made

of coarse cotton, which is grown and woven on the estate. Their days

of labor are rather long; before sun-rise a bell rings to summon them

to prayers, which are recited by one of the overseers, and repeated

by the congregation; after worship is over they proceed to work, at

which they continue till after sun-set, when prayers are said as in

the morning. An hour after supper they are employed in preparing

wood to burn, taking Indian corn from the husk, and in other in-door

operations. Swelled necks are not uncommon among the men-negroes, but

in other respects they appear healthy: I saw few or none afflicted with

elephantiasis, or with any cutaneous disease. There were many very

aged of both sexes; a few even remembered their old master, the first

possessor, though he has been dead upwards of sixty years.

Their principal article of diet, the _farinha de milho_, or flour of

Indian corn, appeared so palatable and nutritive, that, after living

upon it for some time, I had the curiosity to enquire into the mode

of preparing it from the grain. It is first soaked in water, and

afterwards pounded in its swelled and moist state, to separate the

outer husk. It then appears almost granulated, and is put upon copper

pans, which have a fire underneath, and in these it is kept constantly

stirred until it is dry and fit for eating. This substitute for bread

is as common among the inhabitants here as is the _farinha de Pao_,

or mandioca, among the people of Rio de Janeiro, S. Paulo, and other

districts.

The grain is grown always on virgin lands, cleared by burning, after

the manner already described. In good seasons, or, in other words, when

the dry weather allows the felled wood to be completely reduced to

ashes, the return is from one hundred and fifty to two hundred bushels

for one. Weeding is only performed after the seed has been a short

time in the ground; indeed, the growing crops suffer less from the

neglect of that operation than from the depredations of rats, which are

frequently very considerable.

On the state of society here I had little leisure to make observations.

A general debility seemed to prevail among the females, which I imputed

to the want of better food and more exercise: they confine themselves

principally to the sedentary employments of sewing, or making lace.

While at San Jose I saw many females from the country, dressed in gowns

made of English prints; some of them had woollen mantles, edged with

gold lace or Manchester velvet, thrown loosely over their shoulders.

Their hair was invariably fastened with combs, and they in general

wore, out of doors, men’s hats. The men, most of whom belonged to the

militia, appeared in uniforms. No two things can be more different

than the deshabille and full-dress of a nominal militia officer. When

at home he seldom puts on more than half his clothes, over which he

throws an old great coat; and saunters about the house in this attire

from morning till night, a true picture of idleness. On Sundays, or

on gala-days, after some hours spent in decorating his person, he

sallies forth, completely metamorphosed from a slip-shod sloven into

a spruce-officer, glittering in a weight of gold lace, on a horse

caparisoned with equal splendor, forming as fine a sight for the gazing

multitude as a general at a review. He observes no medium between these

extremes, being always very shabby or very fine.

During my stay at Barro I was presented with some singularly fine

fruit, equal in flavor to fresh almonds, and capable of being preserved

by drying only, so as to become a valuable article of commerce. Having

never before heard of this fruit, I am induced to give a brief account

of it. The exterior substance is about the size of a full-grown

cocoa-nut with the rind on, say nine or ten inches long and five or

six in the thickest part. It grows suspended from the branch by a

very slender but strong stem. This shell is full of kernels, to the

number of from thirty to fifty, of the shape of almonds, but twice or

thrice the size, disposed in ranges or layers, and separated from each

other by a white pithy substance. As these kernels ripen, the top of

the shell, which appears like a lid, is gradually forced open, and

when they are at full maturity, the larger part, which contains them,

separates and falls to the ground. The trees, at the season of shedding

their fruits, are frequented by wild hogs, herds of monkies, flocks of

parrots, and other birds, which never quit them, while any of these

delicious nuts remain. I was credibly informed that some trees have

been known to produce above a ton weight in a season. One of the nuts I

preserved and brought with me, which I sent to Sir Joseph Banks.

We now took leave of the good people at the _fazenda_, and returned to

Villa Rica by the way we came. I had, with great difficulty, procured a

few pounds of butter, made after the new process, as a present for Dr.

Lucas, the Judge, which arrived perfectly fresh and sweet. On passing

Lavras Velhas, as we returned, we were shown some excellent cinchona,

very like that of Peru, and said to possess similar properties in

a high degree. From the specimen we saw, there was every reason

to believe, that, if fairly introduced into practice, it might be

administered in many cases with as much success as Peruvian bark; and,

as great quantities might be procured here, the experiment is certainly

worth attending to by medical men. I sent a parcel of it home, but by

some accident or other it was lost at the Custom-house.

In many parts of our route we might have collected insects, but they

require so much attention and care in preserving them for conveyance

so great a distance, that I gave up the pursuit. It appeared to me

extraordinary, that I had not, since my arrival in Brazil, seen (except

in the cabinets of the curious,) more than one _curculio imperialis_

(diamond-beetle), though I had frequently searched for them in almost

every variety of plantation.

During my absence from Villa Rica one of my soldiers had procured me a

full pound of native bismuth in lumps, none of which exceeded an ounce

in weight. It is frequently found in this state, which proves that it

is out of its place, as it originally occurs in veins. Many pieces of

pyrites, and various iron ores, were also brought to me.

I had commissioned some persons to collect land shells for me during my

absence, and was now to my great gratification presented with six, of

a fine chesnut brown color, with beautiful pink mouths, belonging to a

new variety of the helix. Having kept them a few days, without taking

out the animals, I was surprised to find that one of the latter had

laid two eggs. I had before imagined that they were oviparous. I took

one of the shells in my hand, while the animal was crawling, when it

immediately folded itself, and entered very quickly, in which exertion

another egg was deposited in the mouth of the shell. All the eggs were

about the size of a sparrow’s. These were the only land shells I had

seen on this journey.

On resuming my visit to the mint I took an early opportunity of stating

to the acting governors my ideas respecting a new regulation for

supplying mercury to the miners. One great impediment to the use of

that metal, so essential in certain branches of the process, was the

exorbitant price at which it was exclusively sold by the apothecaries,

generally upwards of two shillings the ounce. I suggested that the mint

should be the general depository for it, and that it should be issued

from thence to the gold-washers without profit. By this regulation

the article would be brought into general use, much to the benefit

of the state as well as of private individuals. I also gave them

models of earthen vessels, which might be made at a small expense, for

evaporating and condensing the mercury, which, if universally adopted,

would effect a great saving in the consumption of that article.

The remainder of my stay, previous to my journey to Tejuco, passed

very agreeably. In the evening-parties to which I was invited, and

which generally consisted of ladies and gentlemen, I observed that the

English style of dress prevailed, particularly among the former. The

houses of the higher classes in Villa Rica are much more convenient and

better furnished than any I saw in Rio de Janeiro and S. Paulo, and

are for the most part kept in the exactest order. Their beds seemed

to me so elegant as to deserve a particular description. The posts

were of fine wood, fluted or carved in various ways; the sides plain,

the bottoms of boards or leather. The bed itself was of cotton, the

sheets of fine linen edged with lace of home manufacture, full nine

inches broad. The bolster was covered with fine muslin, the ends of

which were edged also with lace. The pillows were made round at the

ends and covered with pink sarsnet, over which was another of fine

muslin, terminated with broad lace, which being starched and delicately

managed had a very rich appearance. The coverlet was yellow satin of a

Damask pattern, edged like the sheets and pillows with broad lace. The

hangings were of the same materials, in the form of a canopy, without

curtains. Not excepting the refinements of recent date in this article

of furniture, I never saw beds so magnificent as those of the opulent

in this captaincy.

Every thing being now in readiness for my departure, I waited upon

the several inhabitants to whom I had been introduced, to express

my thanks for the polite attentions they had shewn me, and received

from them the most obliging assurances of friendship, and the kindest

wishes for my welfare. I also, much to my regret, took leave of my

valued friend and fellow-traveller, Mr. Goodall, whose affairs required

him to go to St. João D’El Rey, and thence return to Rio de Janeiro.

Never was a traveller more fortunate in a companion; always cheerful

and in spirits, he had the happy faculty of regarding every thing on

its bright side, and in all the various inconveniences of bad roads,

wretched inns, miserable fare, and worse accommodations, he exemplified

the truth of the adage that, “a merry heart hath a continual feast.”

Being perfectly master of the language, and well acquainted with the

character and manners of the people, he made himself at home every

where, and generally contrived to draw from the conversation of those

around him, some topic either for lively remark or instructive comment.

These amiable qualities, the offspring of a cultivated understanding

and an excellent heart, gave him a double claim to that respect and

confidence which we ever entertain for those whom we distinguish by the

name of friend.

CHAP. XII

_Journey from Villa Rica to Tejuco, the Capital of the Diamond

District._

HAVING previously sent letters to his Excellency the Conde de Linhares,

giving him an account of my proceedings, I set out from Villa Rica,

attended by the two soldiers and my negro servant. I passed through the

city of Mariana, and entered upon the plain in its vicinity already

mentioned, which, in the rainy season, is often entirely overflowed.

To the left I observed a beautiful and romantic mountain, called Morro

de Santa Anna, on which stood many small neat houses, surrounded

by coffee-plantations and orangeries; its base was watered by a

_corvinha_, or rivulet, the banks of which contain much gold, and are

worked by the inhabitants of the mount. Passing onward, the road became

very confined; and the land, though now covered with wood, appeared to

have been formerly under cultivation. We here met a number of mules

laden with sugar, destined for Villa Rica, or, if not sold there, for

Rio de Janeiro.

We arrived and refreshed at a little village called Camargo, and passed

an excellent house, situated near a rivulet of that name, where there

is a gold-washing, which employs about two hundred negroes, and is said

to be very productive. About a league farther we passed a poor little

place called Bento Rodriguez, and about six in the evening arrived at

a very considerable village, called Inficionado, which contains full

fifteen hundred inhabitants. It had been more populous, but its mines

having decreased, it was then on the decline. Finding no inn that

offered any thing tolerable, I alighted at the house of a shopkeeper,

who very civilly provided me an apartment to sleep in, and introduced

me at supper to his wife, and three other ladies, whose society was

very pleasant and cheerful. On the next day, after some trouble,

my soldiers at a late hour procured mules, when I set out about ten

o’clock upon a bad road, and, after travelling half a league, arrived

at the Corgo do Inficionado, a fine rivulet flowing through a country

rich in gold, particularly near the village of Santa Barbara, where

washings appear in all directions. From hence to the village of Catas

Altas, two leagues distant, is a tract of the finest open country I

ever travelled in Brazil; it has many features resembling that between

Matlock and Derby, and its mountains bear a strong similarity to those

of Westmoreland. There are slips in some of them in which topazes are

found, but rarely any of good quality. This district appeared equally

suited for mining and agriculture, the ground being rich above as well

as below. The village of Catas Altas, through which we rode, contains

at least two thousand inhabitants, and is situated in a populous

neighbourhood. The public buildings are well constructed, and the

private houses in general appear very respectable, but bear evident

marks of decay. We crossed the river which is broad but shallow, and

has works on its banks of greater extent and under better management

than any I had hitherto seen. The whole vicinity is irrigated by

numerous rivulets, many of which are diverted from their courses to a

great distance for the purpose of gold-washing. In all parts, even on

the tops and sides of the hills, we observed operations of this kind

going on; in the valleys there were many spots still rich in gold,

which had not yet been washed.

Continuing about six miles over this naked country, we entered on a

more confined road, and passing a village called Cocaes, proceeded half

a league further in the dark, to the mansion of Senhor Felicio, the

_Capitao Mor_ of the district, where we alighted, having travelled this

day above thirty miles. On being announced, I was immediately shown

up stairs into a suite of handsome apartments, furnished with great

magnificence, where I was introduced by the _Capitao_ to his amiable

lady and daughter. We were joined by Dr. Gomides, a man of talents and

science, with whom I entered into conversation, and who afterwards

showed me a fine collection of gold in various forms, some like

duck-shot, others laminated with micaceous iron, others arborescent.

He had also some specimens of stalactitic matter, on which nitre was

forming, others of specular iron ore, and three or four fine pieces

of chrome, which I at first took for realgar. From this gentleman I

received considerable information respecting the mineralogy of the

country, which is so difficult to be obtained accurate, that I found

reason to reject all which did not correspond with what I saw. In the

course of the evening the party was joined by the Count de Oeyenhausen,

who commands a corps of cavalry in the district. He made many enquiries

of me respecting England, that being the country in which he had

received his education, and to which he seemed as much attached as to

his native soil.

This large establishment, though still rich in gold, is worked by

only two hundred negroes. One part of the estate is an auriferous

mountain of schistus, containing beds of micaceous iron ore; the

latter substance forms a thin stratum, which contains gold in grains

laminated with it. It is singular to remark, that the _cascalho_, which

generally, nay, almost invariably occurs in ravines and low situations,

is here found at a very small depth below the surface on the summit.

The discovery of the original gold mine in this rich _sesmaria_,

is said to have been owing to the following accident. Some negroes

employed in clearing the land, broke up an ant-hill of considerable

size, when, on laying it open to the air, for the purpose of destroying

or dispersing the insects, large grains of gold were found. It is,

however, highly probable that the general characteristics of the soil

had led to the discovery long before this period, and that the accident

here related, served only to indicate the presence of gold in a part

which had not been supposed to contain any. The estate is situated

almost in the centre of the mining country, and is reputed one of the

richest portions of it. The owner and his brother, who are partners,

have conducted their concerns in a liberal way, and are said to be very

wealthy. It was my wish to have staid a day or two for the purpose of

inspecting the extensive works which they have opened; but I forebore

to make any request of this nature, as I perceived, or supposed, some

little jealousy or suspicion respecting my views. It seemed to be the

opinion here, as well as in other places, that I had a mission from

Government, authorizing me to enquire into the state of the mines, and

give a report concerning them.

In riding past the works, after having taken leave of the _Capitao_

I did not perceive any machinery used for facilitating manual labor.

The tedious process of washing by hand was most generally practised;

in some instances inclined canoes were used, which, if carried to the

degree of improvement of which they are susceptible, might much more

effectually answer the purpose.

Between the mountain on _Capitao_ Felicio’s estate and the village of

Sabará is a rich mining district, which extends also to Bromare, over

a continuation of hilly country. It is occupied by several opulent

miners, who possess many fine grounds still unworked. A tract of land

a few miles in extent is appropriated to agricultural purposes, being

reputed to be destitute of gold.

I proceeded four leagues, over a well-watered and finely-wooded

country, to a hamlet called Vaz, a name which had become familiar

to my ear through the frequent mention which my soldiers made of

“the good old man of Vaz.” This person, whose reception of me fully

justified the appellation with which he had been distinguished, was

a farmer from Oporto, who had been resident here about forty years.

He bought the estate with twenty negroes upon it, and paid for it by

yearly instalments in twenty years afterwards. This mode of disposing

of estates is much practised, being at once easy to the purchaser,

and advantageous to the seller, as it ensures to the latter a better

price than he could obtain on the condition of immediate payment.

The house, which is well-built and convenient, has a sugar-mill and

distillery attached to it. The sugar is generally sent to Rio, under an

agreement with the carrier, giving him half or sometimes two-thirds of

the proceeds, with a promise of back-carriage of salt, iron, and other

commodities.

Owing to the kind assiduities of my worthy host, the evening passed

very agreeably. Many of the neighbours came to see and converse with

me, as I was the first Englishman, or perhaps foreigner, who had ever

travelled so far into the interior. Their curiosity led them to examine

almost every implement I carried with me; my saddle, bridle, and

stirrups, were viewed with great attention; nor could they imagine how

it was possible to sit in the former with any degree of safety. There

was no convincing them that it was much preferable to the Portuguese

saddle, which has a ridge about eight inches high, both before and

behind, so that the rider is, as it were, in the stocks, and, though

not so liable to be thrown out, has a most galling and uncomfortable

seat.

The next morning I visited the negroes’ houses, and was much pleased

to find one set apart for the reception of poor distressed travelling

negroes, who here find a fatherly protection, and are allowed to

stay as long a time as may suit their necessities. On taking leave

of the good old gentleman, I could not prevail on him to accept any

remuneration for his kindness, and he replied to my thanks with the

warmest assurances of welcome. I crossed a fine stream, and rode

through several plantations of sugar-cane, which were at this season

nearly ready for cutting. The country, as we proceeded, gradually

became more mountainous, and abounded with argillaceous schistus

very full of quartz. After riding about sixteen miles, we saw a very

singular mountain, or bare rock of granite, called Itambé, forming part

of a high ridge which lay on our left. About four o’clock we arrived

at a poor village, also called Itambé, situated near a fine river of

the same name. This place was formerly of some consequence, but as the

gold in its vicinity failed, it sunk into poverty and wretchedness.

It contains about a thousand inhabitants, who, degraded to the lowest

stage of inactive apathy, looked as if they were the ghosts of their

progenitors haunting the ruins of their departed wealth.

Every thing about them bore a cheerless aspect; the houses were ready

to fall to the ground through want of repair; the door-places were

overgrown with grass, and the patches of garden-ground that here and

there appeared, were covered with weeds. The face of the country, too,

was entirely different from that which I had passed on my way hither,

being universally sterile, dry, and stony. It may well be supposed,

from this description, that our accommodations here were of the worst

kind: we halted at a miserable abode, where they offered us some mouldy

Indian corn and _feijones_, and, after a great deal of difficulty,

procured us a fowl. My servant was obliged to clean all the utensils

before they could be used; and the soldiers while cooking, were obliged

to guard the pot lest some half-famished prowler should steal it. The

commandant of the place, with whom we had afterwards some conversation,

answered our remarks on the visible signs of starvation in the looks of

the villagers, by coolly saying, “While they get Indian corn to eat,

and water to drink, they will not die of hunger.” I was glad to depart

from this home of famine as fast as possible, heartily joining in the

exclamation which the Portuguese have bestowed upon it; “Das mizerias

de Itambé _libera nos Domine_!”—(From the miseries of Itambé the Lord

deliver us!)

After riding about five miles, we came to the River Das Onzas, so

named from the numbers of those animals which formerly infested its

banks. Changing our mules at a village called Lagos, cosisting of a

few miserable _fazendas_, we proceeded a league over a most rugged

and mountainous road, and passing a ridge, entered on a fine country,

presenting to view a grand picturesque mountain nearly a league distant

from us; about mid-way up was a large house, to which we directed our

course. We forded a rather deep river called Rio Negro, on account of

the blackness of its waters, caused by the decomposition of bituminous

or vegetable matter. Its margin, along which we rode for some distance,

presented some fine grazing land. Passing through a broken and

irregular tract of country, we arrived at another deserted village

called Gaspar Soares, and rode up to the house above-mentioned, the

owner of which was from home, but his lady received me very politely.

Having arrived rather early in the evening, I employed myself some time

in walking about the grounds: the mountain on which the house stands

consists almost entirely of micaceous iron ore[41]; the wall before

the door of the house was built of that substance. In some parts, to

my great surprise, I observed it lying in regular strata, not more

than an inch in thickness, between beds of white sand. The quantity of

ore found in this neighbourhood is so considerable as to have induced

Government to commence an iron-work, under the direction of Dr. Manoel

Ferreira da Camara, Intendant of the Diamond District. In aid of this

undertaking, the gentleman, at whose house I was a guest, has presented

a square league of woodland, the only tract of that description in the

neighbourhood. The ground for the intended works is marked out, and

a few blocks of stone are prepared; but the undertaking seems to go

on very slowly, and probably will not arrive at any great degree of

perfection.

This hill and the streams near it were formerly rich in gold, but they

have been completely washed, and are at present as much exhausted

as the works at Itambé. A rivulet which runs over the top of the

hill afforded conveniences for washing, which are very rarely to be

met with; it is now intended to be converted to the use of the iron

manufactory.

On the following day I continued my route northerly, over a fine

country, and, after riding, or rather walking, about six miles of

bad road with wretched mules, ascended a hill abounding with rich

compact iron ore. Two leagues of the way were covered with excellent

oxide of iron, and it appeared as if the hills were entirely covered

with that substance. Without any material occurrence, we arrived at a

beautiful rivulet, near which stood a miserable hut, where two women

were weaving cotton. This place, apparently so insignificant, proved

one of the most interesting, in a mineralogical point of view, which

I had hitherto visited. It is called Lagos, and also bears the name

of Ouro Branco (White Gold), in allusion to a granular substance, not

unlike gold in size and weight, found in a gold-washing in the bed of

the stream. This substance, which has since been proved to be platina,

was discovered many years ago in the _cascalho_ below the vegetable

earth, and incumbent on the solid rock, accompanied with gold and

black oxide of iron. From these circumstances the people judged it

to be gold united with some other metal, from which it could not be

separated; and, as the quantity of real gold found was small, and the

white gold, as they called it, was not known to be of value, the work

was gradually neglected, and at length abandoned. I procured a specimen

of the substance: it appeared accompanied with _osmium_ and _iridium_,

and was in rougher grains than the platina brought from the province of

Choco; which latter circumstance may be owing to its not having been

triturated with mercury. Now that the substance is known to be platina,

it is doubtful whether the work might be resumed with advantage, as

the demand for that article is at present so small, that the quantity

sold would hardly pay expenses. Near this place is a work called Mata

Cavallos.

The rivulet of Lagos empties itself into the Rio de St. Antonio,

along which we rode a small distance, and proceeding about four miles

farther, arrived at Conceição, a large and tolerably handsome village.

I was conducted to the house of the curate, who kindly assigned to me

an apartment for the night, and, perceiving that I was unwell, gave me

an invitation to rest a day, which I very gladly accepted.

I here received many visits from the villagers, whose curiosity had

been excited by the news of an Englishman having arrived: some of

them were upwards of eighty years of age, and, as they had resided

here more than fifty, they were able to give many curious accounts of

the country, and of the progress and decline of its mines. I was much

pleased with the information they communicated, but more so with the

attention of the good curate, who corrected every misrepresentation,

and seemed anxious that I should not be led into error, either through

accident or design. By some means or other, an opinion circulated

among them that I was a medical man, and numbers of infirm persons,

principally old men, women, and children, were brought to me for

advice. In the evening we were entertained with music by some of the

younger females, who brought their guitars, and sung several pleasing

airs.

I was here shown a Buticudo Indian boy, apparently about nine years of

age, who had been taken about six months before. He could not utter a

word of Portuguese; but, from the expression of his countenance, his

mind seemed capable of receiving any tuition. His eyes had so much

vivacity in them that they almost spoke, especially when his attention

was attracted by any thing agreeable, as I found by offering him

a few sweetmeats, with which he seemed much delighted. I examined

his features and the construction of his frame with some curiosity,

as exhibiting the characteristics of the singular race of men from

whom he sprung. The face was short, the mouth rather wide, the nose

broad, the eyes large and black, skin of a dusky copper color, hair

jet-black, strong, straight, and of regular length, limbs stout and

well-proportioned, feet large, probably from going without shoes. He

lived with a poor woman, who clothed and brought him up exactly as

one of her family. On enquiring how he came there, I was informed

that he belonged to a party of Indians who were surprised at a place

about six leagues distant, and all either fell or escaped, except this

little fellow, who was taken care of, and brought hither by an officer

resident in the village.

Being still too unwell to travel, I remained another day, and met with

every attention and care from the good clergyman and his housekeeper.

In the course of conversation, he informed me that he studied and had

been ordained at S. Paulo; and when he learnt that I had been there so

recently, seemed much pleased, and asked me many questions respecting

the present state of that city, which showed his attachment to it as

the scene of his youthful days.

About a week previous to my arrival, this village was the scene of

a somewhat remarkable adventure. A _tropeiro_[42] going to Rio de

Janeiro with some loaded mules, was overtaken by two cavalry soldiers,

who ordered him to surrender his fowling-piece; which being done, they

bored the butt-end with a gimblet, and finding it hollow, took off the

iron from the end, where they found a cavity containing about three

hundred carats of diamonds, which they immediately seized. The man

in vain protested his innocence, stating that he had bought the gun

of a friend: he was hurried away, and thrown into prison at Tejuco,

where I afterwards saw him. The diamonds were confiscated, and the

soldiers received half their value. The fate of this man is a dreadful

instance of the rigor of the existing laws: he will forfeit all his

property, and be confined, probably, for the remainder of his days

in a loathsome prison, among felons and murderers. What must be the

feelings (if, indeed, he can be said to possess any) of the fellow who

betrayed him; for, doubtless, the poor man owed his misfortune to some

secret villain, in the shape of a confidential friend, who, having

learned his mode of carrying diamonds concealed, had, for the sake of

a paltry premium, or from some mean spirited motive, given notice of

it to Government! How must the miscreant recoil at having brought to

irreparable ruin, and plunged into that lowest state of human misery,

perpetual imprisonment, a man who not only claimed his sympathy as a

fellow-creature, but was united to him by the ties of friendship!

The village of Conceição, seemed to me large enough to contain

two thousand inhabitants, but, like most others in this exhausted

district, it was fast hastening to decay. The rent of a tolerable

house is about two shillings a month. The only manufacture carried on

here is that of a little cotton, which is spun by the hand and woven

into coarse shirting. It appears to be a maxim among the inhabitants

rather to go naked, than labor to clothe themselves. The vestiges of

old gold-washings in every direction, and the slight quantities still

found in all parts, from the summits of the mountains to their bases,

might almost lead a traveller to conclude that the whole country was

at one period auriferous. The surface is in general fine red earth,

and in many parts presents fine situations for iron works, as there

is ore and wood in abundance. It is much to be wished that such works

were established; for iron is so dear at Conceição, and the people in

general so poor, that the mules have seldom a shoe to their feet, which

is irksome to the riders, and dangerous to the animals themselves,

as they are continually coming down, particularly when ascending a

clay-hill, after a shower of rain.

Neither here, nor in any other part of my journey from Villa Rica,

did I observe any limestone, though I was informed that considerable

quantities were found near Sabará.

Taking leave of the worthy curate, I set out for Tapinhoá-canga[43],

distant about thirty miles. After an unpleasant ride through a rough

stony country, abounding in quartz laminated with schistus, I reached a

village called Corvos, where there are some gold-washings, one of which

produced, about half a year ago, a net profit of £800, though only

four negroes were employed a month upon it. The road to the village

above mentioned led through a most uneven tract, presenting formidable

precipices, which required us to travel with so much caution, that

we did not complete our journey until an hour after sun-set. I was

received into a very respectable house, which had the appearance

of former opulence. The owner, Captain Bom-jardim, a venerable old

gentleman, came to welcome me: on entering into conversation, he

informed me that he had emigrated hither from Oporto at the age of

seventeen, and had lived here sixty-two years. He was tempted to settle

here by the hope of participating in the rich treasures for which the

country was then famed; but he arrived two or three years too late:

the mines were already on the decline, and he was obliged to turn his

attention to agricultural pursuits, in which he persevered with such

success that he was enabled to realize a comfortable independency, and

to bring up a numerous family in credit and respectability. It had been

well if his neighbours had profited by so eminent an example, instead

of deserting the country when the gold on its surface disappeared.

That many did so was evident from the declining state of the village;

a great number of its houses were falling to decay, others were

untenanted, and its population, which formerly amounted to near three

thousand, was dwindled to a third of that amount.

Continuing my journey next day, I crossed the ridge of a lofty chain of

mountains, abounding with streams, that were much swoln in consequence

of the late rains; one of the largest, called Rio dos Peixes, I forded

thrice, and entered on a wide champaign country. In many parts I saw

large tracts of bare places, where the grit-stone alternated with

argillaceous schistus. The next ten miles led through an elevated

and fertile plain, intersected with rivulets in every direction, and

well calculated for farming, but very thinly inhabited. Early in the

afternoon I reached an eminence, from which I had a fine view of Villa

do Principe, situated on the rise of a lofty hill opposite, the base of

which was washed by a rivulet called _Corvinho dos Quatro Vintens_[44].

On arriving in the town, I was conducted to the house of the governor,

or chief magistrate, who received me very politely, and introduced me

to his lady and a party of friends, with whom I took tea.

Villa do Principe was established as a _comarco_, or district, in

the year 1730, when the gold-washings were most productive: but it

dates its origin fifteen years earlier, at which period the place was

discovered by the Paulistas, who had then commenced to migrate from

Villa Rica and the adjacent settlements. The town at present contains

about five thousand inhabitants, the most considerable proportion of

whom are shopkeepers, and the rest artisans, farmers, miners, and

laborers. Here is a house of permutation, to which every miner in the

district brings the gold he obtains, and pays the royal fifth, as is

done in Villa Rica. The _ouvidor_ holds the office of mint-master,

which renders his situation one of the best in the gift of the crown.

Here are several inferior officers belonging to various departments of

the public service. As this town is situated very near the confines of

the Diamond District, and on the high road leading to it, the strictest

regulations prevail respecting the passage of all persons thither. No

one, except travellers on business, with certificates to that effect,

is suffered to proceed, until a formal notification has been made to

the governor of that district; the laws of which are so strict, that

any person found within it, out of the regular road, is liable to

be apprehended on suspicion, and subjected to an examination, which

frequently occasions much trouble and delay.

The country around Villa do Principe is very fine and open, being free

from those impenetrable woods, which occur so frequently in other

parts of the province. Its soil is in general very productive, and the

climate mild and salubrious.

At a washing about six leagues distant, a lump of gold was found of

several pounds weight. From the same place I procured some above two

ounces, and obtained the large crystals now in my possession, one of

which is considered unique.

I quitted Villa do Principe about noon on the day following, after

making my acknowledgments for the polite attentions of the governor,

who kindly sent a servant to attend me the first league of the road.

This man I commissioned, under a promise of pecuniary recompence, to

collect for me land-shells and insects, against my return, which I

expected would take place in two or three months; and, from the aptness

with which he received my directions, (joined to the prospect of

emolument), I had little doubt but that he would attend to them.

As we journeyed on, I perceived that the country bore an aspect

entirely different from that in the neighbourhood of Villa do

Principe: its surface, consisting of coarse sand and rounded quartz

pebbles, was almost destitute of wood or herbage. One hillock near

the road exhibited perpendicular laminæ of micaceous grit, which, on

alighting from my horse and examining, I found to be flexible. My

soldier, hearing me remark that the country bore characteristics which

I had never observed elsewhere, exclaimed, “Senhor, we are in the

Diamond District.” This circumstance, which I had not before thought

of, fully accounted for the change. We travelled over a very sterile

country for the first four leagues, and passed several high mountains.

Towards the close of the day we reached an eminence, from which we

beheld a most romantic cluster of dwellings, resembling a labyrinth,

or a negroes-town in Africa. We descended the hill, and approached the

place; when, it being nearly dark, I was conducted to a house much

larger than any of the others, where I learnt that the establishment

was a diamond-work called San Gonzales, the first which occurs in the

Serro do Frio. It has been some time on the decline, and employs about

200 negroes. The intendant, a very intelligent man, had been apprised

of our coming by a letter from the governor at Tejuco, and gave me

a very friendly reception. While engaged in conversation with him,

I observed (it being now moon-light) some fine cows in front of the

premises, and concluded that they were come to be milked, but this I

understood was not the case. They were licking the doorposts and sides

of the houses, with much apparent eagerness, and, on enquiring what

this signified, I was told that they wanted salt. They were so tame

and gentle that, on holding out my hand, they licked it; when, being

desirous to see the effect which salt produced on them, I procured

some, and gave them a handful: but they became so very unruly for more,

that had I not immediately desisted and retired, their fury might have

produced serious consequences. This article is so necessary for the

support of the cattle, that their very existence depends on it, yet it

is encumbered with a heavier duty than any other article of import,

iron alone excepted. Surely, when it is considered that vast herds are

daily sent from this province to Rio de Janeiro, each paying a toll of

nearly twelve shillings on crossing the river Paraibuna, the impolicy

of this duty must be self-evident, because, in raising the price of the

commodity to an excessive degree, it checks the breed of cattle, and

thus ultimately defeats the purpose for which it was imposed.

The next day, before we left this romantic place, I devoted some

time to an examination of the refuse-hillocks contiguous to the

diamond-works, but found nothing among the heaps of quartzose stones,

which had been washed when this place was more in repute. I here

noticed a thin stratum below the roots of the grass, which I had

elsewhere seen, but never so distinctly characteristic. It is called

_bergalhão_, and consists of quartz pebbles, generally angular, and

not unfrequently large beds of solid quartz not more than four or

five inches thick. This stratum does not appear to have been formed

at the same time, or by the same means as the _cascalho_, from which

it is invariably separated by a stratum of vegetable earth unequal

in thickness; it has more the appearance of a thin bed of quartz

subsequently shattered into innumerable fragments.

Having taken leave of the administrator, I proceeded through a

continuation of mountains and sterile country, very thinly inhabited.

I stopt at one of the best of the few miserable houses on the road to

procure some refreshment. There was a half-starved cat in the door-way,

the sight of which plainly evinced to me what I had to expect. Poor

animal, thought I, the habitation in which thou existest, will not

afford maintenance for a mouse, much less for thee! While musing on

this picture of distress and famine, a poor meagre woman came to the

door, of whom I requested a little water, which she brought me, and

while I was drinking it she began to implore charity. Her countenance

had already expressed what her tongue now uttered: I gave her the few

provisions my soldiers had with them, together with a small piece of

money, and took leave;—the last words I heard from her were those of

gratitude.

Ere we arrived at this place, we had seen Tejuco at full twelve miles’

distance, and were now much nearer. We crossed two rapid rivulets,

one of them called Rio Negro, the waters of which were of a very black

color, and afterwards passed a guard-house, or register, called Milho

Verde, situated near a stream of the same name, formerly much noted for

diamonds. Here a band of soldiers are stationed, who are always on the

alert, riding after and examining passengers. The country is extremely

rough, and destitute of vegetation, covered in all directions with

grit-stone rocks full of rounded quartzose pebbles. We rode two miles

along the Corvinho de St. Francisco, which runs through the ravine

at the foot of the mountain on the side of which Tejuco is built,

presenting much the same appearance as Villa Rica. I entered the town,

and took up my abode at the best inn, which contained some neat rooms,

and afforded tolerable accommodations.

This was Sunday the 17th of September, being one month since my

departure from Rio de Janeiro, during which period I had been

almost continually on horseback; for the time I remained at Villa

Rica was principally occupied in journies to various places in the

neighbourhood.

CHAP. XIII.

_Visit to the Diamond Works on the River Jiquitinhonha.—General

Description of the Works.—Mode of Washing.—Return to Tejuco.—Visit

to the Treasury.—Excursion to Rio Pardo.—Miscellaneous Remarks._

THE continual fatigues, and want of accommodation on the journey, had

rendered me very unwell, and I was therefore desirous of resting a

week at Tejuco before I proceeded to the diamond mines; but, learning

that I had been expected for the last two or three days, I sent one of

my soldiers up to the house of Dr. Camara, the governor, to announce

my arrival, and to state that I was prevented by indisposition from

personally paying my respects to him. He immediately came with a few

friends to visit me, gave me a most hearty welcome to Tejuco, and staid

with me at least three hours. I delivered to him my public and private

letters, passports, and other credentials, which he perused with great

satisfaction, observing to the _ouvidor_ and his friends, that I

possessed the same privileges which they did, having permission from

the court to see every place I wished, which they were directed to show

me. He then told me that, in expectation of my arrival, he had delayed

a journey to the greatest of the diamond works, called Mandanga,

situated on the river Jiquitinhonha, which employs about a thousand

Negroes, and on particular occasions double that number. He was

desirous that I should see this great work with all the machinery in

operation, which would be very speedily removed, the late rains having

swoln the rivers so much as to render working more, impracticable. He

therefore kindly invited me to breakfast at his house on the following

morning, when he would have all in readiness for a journey of about

thirty miles to the place above mentioned.

At an early hour I arose; and, though so unwell as to be scarcely

more than half alive, I could not resist the favorable opportunity

now offered me of gratifying the curiosity which had so long occupied

my mind, by visiting the diamond mines, in company with the principal

officer in the administration of them, who was therefore qualified

to furnish me with the amplest information. A fine horse was waiting

for me at the door, and I rode up to the house of the governor, who

introduced me to his amiable lady, daughters, and family, with whom

I had the honor to take breakfast. Several officers of the diamond

establishment arrived on horseback to accompany us, their presence

being required on this occasion.

At nine o’clock we set out, and crossed the ravine, watered by the

small rivulet of St. Franciso, which separates Tejuco from the opposite

mountains. The road was very rough and uneven, continually ascending

or descending mountains of considerable extent, the strata of which

were grit alternating with micaceous schistus, and presenting an

immense quantity of rude masses, composed of grit and rounded quartz,

forming a loose and friable kind of pudding-stone. The country appeared

almost destitute of wood, presenting occasionally a few poor shrubs;

there were no cattle to be seen, yet some of the tracts would certainly

maintain sheep in great numbers. Having halted at a place about half

way, we descended a very steep mountain, full a mile in the declivity,

and entered a ravine, where we crossed a very good wooden bridge over

the river Jiquitinhonha, which is larger than the Derwent at Derby. We

rode along its margin, where the land appears much richer, presenting

a good vegetable soil covered with underwood; and, proceeding about a

league, arrived at the famed place called Mandanga. The habitations,

which are about one hundred in number, are built detached, and are

generally of a circular form, with very high thatched roofs, like

African huts, but much larger. The walls are formed of upright stakes,

interwoven with small branches, and coated with clay inside and out.

The houses of the officers are of the same materials but of much more

convenient form, and whitewashed within. Near some of the houses we

observed inclosures for gardens, which, in some degree, enlivened

the prospect, and gave an air of comfort to these rude and simple

dwellings.

I remained here five days, during which I was occupied in viewing and

examining various parts of the works, of which I shall here attempt to

give a general description.

This rich river, formed by the junction of a number of streams which

will be hereafter noted, is as wide as the Thames at Windsor, and

in general from three to nine feet deep. The part now in working is

a curve or elbow, from which the current is diverted into a canal

cut across the tongue of land, round which it winds, the river being

stopped just below the head of the canal by an embankment, formed

of several thousand bags of sand. This is a work of considerable

magnitude, and requires the co-operation of all the negroes to

complete it; for, the river being wide and not very shallow, and also

occasionally subject to overflows, they have to make the embankment so

strong as to resist the pressure of the water, admitting it to rise

four or five feet.

[Illustration: BREAK IN THE HILL SHEWING THE TOPAZ MINE AT CAPON.]

[Illustration: BED OF THE RIVER LAID DRY BY AN AQUEDUCT TO CONNECT THE

ALLUVIAL SOIL IN ORDER TO WASH IT FOR DIAMONDS, GOLD, &c.]

The deeper parts of the channel of the river are laid dry by means

of large _caissons_ or chain-pumps, worked by a water-wheel. The

mud is then carried off, and the _cascalho_ is dug up and removed

to a convenient place for washing. This labor was, until lately,

performed by the negroes, who carried the _cascalho_ in _gamellas_

on their heads, but Dr. Camara has formed two inclined planes about

one hundred yards in length, along which carts are drawn by a large

water-wheel, divided into two parts, the ladles or buckets of which are

so constructed that the rotatory motion may be altered by changing the

current of water from one side to the other; this wheel, by means of

a rope made of untanned hides, works two carts, one of which descends

empty on one inclined plane, while the other, loaded with _cascalho_,

is drawn to the top of the other inclined plane, where it falls into

a cradle, empties itself, and descends in its turn. At a work, called

Cangica, formerly of great importance, about a mile up the river on the

opposite side, there are three cylindrical engines (_wims_) for drawing

the _cascalho_, like those used in the mining country of Derbyshire,

and also rail-ways over some uneven ground. This was the first and

only machinery of consequence which I saw in the Diamond District, and

there appear many obstacles to the general introduction of it. Timber,

when wanted of large size, has to be fetched a distance of one hundred

miles at a very heavy expense; there are few persons competent to the

construction of machines, and the workmen dislike to make them, fearing

that this is only part of a general plan for superseding manual labor.

The stratum of _cascalho_ consists of the same materials with that in

the gold district. On many parts, by the edge of the river, are large

conglomerated masses of rounded pebbles cemented by oxide of iron,

which sometimes envelop gold and diamonds. They calculate on getting

as much _cascalho_ in the dry season as will occupy all their hands

during the months which are more subject to rain. When carried from

the bed of the river whence it is dug, it is laid in heaps containing

apparently from five to fifteen tons each.

Water is conveyed from a distance, and is distributed to the various

parts of the works by means of aqueducts, constructed with great

ingenuity and skill. The method of washing for diamonds at this place

is as follows:—A shed is erected in the form of a parallelogram,

twenty-five or thirty yards long, and about fifteen wide, consisting of

upright posts which support a roof thatched with long grass. Down the

middle of the area of this shed a current of water is conveyed through

a canal covered with strong planks, on which the _cascalho_ is laid two

or three feet thick. On the other side of the area is a flooring of

planks, from four to five yards long, embedded in clay, extending the

whole length of the shed, and having a slope from the canal, of three

or four inches to a yard. This flooring is divided into about twenty

compartments or troughs, each about three feet wide, by means of planks

placed on their edge. The upper ends of all these troughs (here called

canoes) communicate with the canal, and are so formed that water is

admitted into them between two planks that are about an inch separate.

Through this opening the current falls about six inches into the

trough, and may be directed to any part of it, or stopped at pleasure

by means of a small quantity of clay. For instance, sometimes water is

required only from one corner of the aperture, then the remaining part

is stopped; sometimes it is wanted from the centre, then the extremes

are stopped; and sometimes only a gentle rill is wanted, then the clay

is applied accordingly. Along the lower ends of the troughs a small

channel is dug to carry off the water.

[Illustration: NEGROES WASHING FOR DIAMONDS, GOLD &c.]

On the heap of _cascalho_, at equal distances, are placed three high

chairs[45] for the officers or overseers. After they are seated, the

negroes[46] enter the troughs, each provided with a rake of a peculiar

form and short handle, with which he rakes into the trough about fifty

or eighty pounds weight of _cascalho_. The water being then let in

upon it, the _cascalho_ is spread abroad and continually raked up to

the head of the trough, so as to be kept in constant motion. This

operation is performed for the space of a quarter of an hour; the water

then begins to run clearer, having washed the earthy particles away,

the gravel-like matter is raked up to the end of the trough; after the

current flows away quite clear, the largest stones are thrown out, and

afterwards those of inferior size, then the whole is examined with

great care for diamonds[47]. When a negro finds one, he immediately

stands upright and claps his hands, then extends them, holding the gem

between his forefinger and thumb; an overseer receives it from him, and

deposits it in a _gamella_ or bowl, suspended from the centre of the

structure, half full of water. In this vessel all the diamonds found

in the course of the day are placed, and at the close of the work are

taken out and delivered to the principal officer, who, after they have

been weighed, registers the particulars in a book kept for that purpose.

When a negro is so fortunate as to find a diamond of the weight of an

_octavo_ (17-1/2 carats), much ceremony takes place; he is crowned with

a wreath of flowers and carried in procession to the administrator, who

gives him his freedom, by paying his owner for it. He also receives a

present of new clothes, and is permitted to work on his own account.

When a stone of eight or ten carats is found, the negro receives two

new shirts, a complete new suit, with a hat and a handsome knife. For

smaller stones of trivial amount proportionate premiums are given.

During my stay at Tejuco a stone of 16-1/2 carats was found: it was

pleasing to see the anxious desire manifested by the officers, that it

might prove heavy enough to entitle the poor negro to his freedom; and

when, on being delivered and weighed, it proved only a carat short of

the requisite weight, all seemed to sympathize in his disappointment.

Many precautions are taken to prevent the negroes from embezzling

diamonds. Although they work in a bent position, and consequently

never know whether the overseers are watching them or not, yet it

is easy for them to omit gathering any which they see, and to place

them in a corner of the trough for the purpose of secreting them at

leisure hours, to prevent which they are frequently changed while the

operation is going on. A word of command being given by the overseers,

they instantly move into each other’s troughs, so that no opportunity

of collusion can take place. If a negro be suspected of having

swallowed a diamond, he is confined in a strong room until the fact

can be ascertained. Formerly the punishment inflicted on a negro for

smuggling diamonds was confiscation of his person to the state; but it

being thought too hard for the owner to suffer for the offence of his

servant, the penalty has been commuted for personal imprisonment and

chastisement. This is a much lighter punishment than that which their

owners or any white man would suffer for a similar offence.

There is no particular regulation respecting the dress of the negroes:

they work in the clothes most suitable to the nature of their

employment, generally in a waistcoat and a pair of drawers, and not

naked, as some travellers have stated. Their hours of labor are from

a little before sunrise until sun-set, half an hour being allowed for

breakfast, and two hours at noon. While washing they change their

posture as often as they please, which is very necessary, as the work

requires them to place their feet on the edges of the trough, and to

stoop considerably. This posture is particularly prejudicial to young

growing negroes, as it renders them in-kneed. Four or five times during

the day they all rest, when snuff, of which they are very fond, is

given to them.

The negroes are formed into working parties, called troops, containing

two hundred each, under the direction of an administrator and inferior

officers. Each troop has a clergyman and a surgeon to attend it.

With respect to the subsistence of the negroes, although the present

governor has in some degree improved it by allowing a daily portion of

fresh beef, which was not allowed by his predecessors, yet I am sorry

to observe that it is still poor and scanty: and in other respects

they are more hardly dealt with than those of any other establishment

which I visited: notwithstanding this, the owners are all anxious to

get their negroes into the service, doubtless from sinister motives, of

which more will be said hereafter.

The officers are liberally paid, and live in a style of considerable

elegance, which a stranger would not be led to expect in so remote

a place. Our tables were daily covered with a profusion of excellent

viands, served up on fine Wedgewood ware, and the state of their

household generally corresponded with this essential part of it. They

were ever ready to assist me in my examination of the works, and freely

gave me all the necessary information respecting them.

Having detailed the process of washing for diamonds, I proceed to a

general description of the situations in which they are found. The flat

pieces of ground on each side the river are equally rich throughout

their extent, and hence the officers are enabled to calculate the value

of an unworked place by comparison with the amount found on working

in the part adjoining. These known places are left in reserve, and

trial is made of more uncertain grounds. The following observation I

often heard from the Intendant: “That piece of ground” (speaking of an

unworked flat by the side of the river) “will yield me ten thousand

carats of diamonds whenever we shall be required to get them in the

regular course of working, or when, on any particular occasion, an

order from Government arrives, demanding an extraordinary and immediate

supply.”

The substances accompanying diamonds, and considered good indications

of them, are bright bean-like iron ore, a slaty flint-like substance,

approaching Lydian-stone, of fine texture, black oxide of iron in

great quantities, rounded bits of blue quartz, yellow crystal, and

other materials entirely different from any thing known to be produced

in the adjacent mountains. Diamonds are by no means peculiar to the

beds of rivers or deep ravines; they have been found in cavities and

water-courses on the summits of the most lofty mountains.

I had some conversation with the officers respecting the matrix of the

diamond, not a vestige of which could I trace. They informed me that

they often found diamonds cemented in pudding-stone, accompanied with

grains of gold, but that they always broke them out, as they could

not enter them in the treasury, or weigh them with matter adhering to

them. I obtained a mass of pudding-stone, apparently of very recent

formation, cemented by ferruginous matter enveloping grains of gold and

diamonds; likewise a few pounds of the _cascalho_ in its unwashed state.

This river, and other streams in its vicinity, have been in washing

many years, and have produced great quantities of diamonds, which have

ever been reputed of the finest quality. They vary in size; some are so

small that four or five are required to weigh one grain, consequently

sixteen or twenty to the carat: there are seldom found more than two

or three stones of from seventeen to twenty carats in the course of a

year, and not once in two years is there found throughout the whole

washings a stone of thirty carats. During the few days I was here they

were not very successful; the whole quantity found amounted only to

forty, the largest of which was only four carats, and of a light green

color.

From the great quantity of _debris_, or worked _cascalho_, in every

part near the river, it is reasonable to calculate that the works have

been in operation above forty years; of course there must arrive a

period at which they will be exhausted, but there are grounds in the

neighbourhood, particularly in the Cerro de St. Antonio, and in the

country now inhabited by the Indians, which will probably afford these

gems in equal abundance.

After residing here five days, we visited a diamond work called

Monteiro, about two miles up the river, and went a league further to

a gold-work called Carrapato. The _cascalho_ at this work was taken

from a part of the river eight feet deep, which formed an eddy under

a projecting point; I was shewn a heap of it, that was estimated to

be worth £10,000. In removing this heap from its bed, four hundred

negroes had been employed three months; and to wash it, would occupy

one hundred men for three months more, the expense of both operations

amounting to perhaps £1,500. We arrived at this place at eight o’clock

in the morning; six negroes were employed four hours in washing two

troughs, containing together about a ton of _cascalho_, when, to

my great surprise, after the water ran clear, and the large stones

were thrown out, the black oxide of iron, of which there was great

abundance, was fringed with grains of gold, a novel and very agreeable

sight to a stranger. The gold was taken out at three or four different

times, and, when the washing was completed, was dried over a fire and

weighed: it amounted to nearly twenty ounces Troy. This is esteemed a

very rich place, and such circumstances are of rare occurrence. The

whole neighbourhood is sterile, presenting the same characteristics

as those before described. By proper cultivation the vallies might

be rendered very productive; but, as the troops of negroes and their

officers are continually changing, no agricultural establishments are

formed.

This place probably derived its name from a most disagreeable insect,

which infests the low brushwood in the neighbourhood. It is like a

sheep-tick; and, on getting access to any part of the body, it fastens

imperceptibly, buries its head under the skin, and draws blood until

its body is swelled to the size of a bean. If forcibly removed, it

leaves a very deep disagreeable hole, which is frequently difficult to

heal. The best mode of getting rid of the animal is to anoint it with

either laudanum or oil, and suffer it to remain until it dies, when it

will drop off.

In the afternoon we returned to Tejuco by another route more

mountainous than that by which we had come. Crossing a deep ravine,

formerly very rich in diamonds, we rode up a mountain full a mile on

the ascent, and passed several rivulets, which I was informed had

produced many fine stones. These, and in fact all the best situations

in the district, had been in the possession of the smugglers, and were

explored by those enterprising men. In the course of our journey, I

observed that whenever a traveller or a negro was seen by any of our

party at a distance from the road, a soldier was instantly dispatched

to bring him to the officers, before whom he underwent an examination.

In the evening we arrived at Tejuco, where I was desirous of remaining

a week to recruit my strength. Dr. Camara ordered my baggage to his

house, whither I removed in compliance with his pressing invitation:

he was kind enough to give me his library as my private room; it was

extensive and very select, consisting chiefly of English authors on

science. Adjoining to it is a fine garden of nearly three acres in

extent, planted chiefly with grass. It was formerly a gold-washing, and

consequently presented a surface of only refuse stones; but the present

proprietor levelled it, brought a little soil from various parts, and

planted a peculiar variety of grass, which he keeps in cutting for his

mules. This was the commencement of the fruit season; the peaches,

with which the trees were loaded, were nearly ripe. The asparagus, and

vegetables of every description, were very fine. The climate appeared

to be mild and genial; the thermometer was generally at 62 degrees at

sunrise, and at mid-day, in a room rather exposed to the sun, rose to

74 degrees.

Tejuco being situated in a sterile district, which produces nothing

for the maintenance of its inhabitants, in number about six thousand,

depends, for a supply of provisions, on farms situated several leagues

distant. The bread of the country was at this time extremely dear;

Indian corn, from which it is made, being from 5s. 6d. to 6s. the

bushel; beans and other pulse in proportion. Beef was very indifferent,

this being the dry season; pork and poultry were rather plentiful.

At no place do I recollect to have seen a greater proportion of

indigent people, particularly of females. Full a hundred and fifty

of these unhappy persons come weekly to receive portions of flour

which the governor was pleased to allow them. They are totally

without occupation, here being neither agriculture nor manufactures

to afford them any; yet both these main supports of the population

might be introduced, if a proper spirit of industry prevailed among

the inhabitants. The land would, with little trouble, yield excellent

crops, were any kind of inclosures made, which, it must be allowed,

is an undertaking attended with some difficulties, yet not of such

magnitude as to render it hopeless. With respect to manufactures, a

most valuable material is at hand, as cotton from Minas Novas, distant

only from sixty to one hundred miles, passes through this place to the

capital.

Yet, notwithstanding the idleness of the inhabitants, Tejuco may be

called florishing, on account of the circulation of property created

by the diamond works. The annual sum paid by Government for the

hire of negroes, salaries of officers, and various necessaries, such

as nitre and iron, does not amount to less than £35,000, and this,

added to the demands of the inhabitants of the town and its vicinity,

occasions a considerable trade. The shops are stocked with English

cottons, baizes, and cloths, and other manufactured goods; also hams,

cheese, butter, porter, and other articles of consumption. Mules from

Bahia and Rio de Janeiro came loaded with them. Great complaints were

made among the shopkeepers of the bad quality of the cotton goods,

and of their losing their colors in washing. Some of the principal

inhabitants exclaimed against the introduction of foreign luxuries, and

rather wished that their trade with England should furnish them the

means of working their iron mines, and enable them to defend themselves.

Tejuco, owing to its situation by the side of a hill, is very

irregularly built; its streets are uneven, but the houses in general

are well constructed and in good condition, compared with those of

other towns in the interior. Its name, which, in the Portuguese

language, signifies a muddy place, is derived from places of that

description in its neighbourhood, which are rendered passable by being

covered with large pieces of wood.

Through the kind care and attention of Dr. Camara and his excellent

family, my health was in part re-established, and I was enabled to

ride out daily, occupying myself in seeing all I could, and gaining

the best information, in which I was assisted by my worthy host and

all his friends. Our evenings were passed in a most agreeable manner,

among the parties which regularly assembled at the Intendant’s house,

consisting of some of the principal inhabitants of the town. In these

parties the gentlemen engage at whist, and the ladies take tea and play

round games, or enter into conversation on the passing occurrences

of the day. In no part of Brazil did I meet with society so select

and agreeable; this may certainly be called the court of the mining

district. In their manners there was no ceremonious reserve or courtly

refinement, but their whole demeanour was genteel and well-bred,

enlivened by an ease and good humor which the affability of the

chief and his amiable lady and daughters ever tended to promote. The

company all dressed after the English mode, and in dresses of English

manufacture: the gentlemen were almost all men of title, distinguished

with stars, yet the _constellation_ which they formed, was far inferior

in brilliancy and elegance to that of the ladies.

I was invited to pay a visit to the treasury, which can only be viewed

when a meeting of officers is called, as the treasure is kept in

chests, under three distinct locks, the keys of which are entrusted

to three several officers, who are all required to be present at the

opening. They here showed me the diamonds taken from the _tropeiro_ at

Conceição, which were in general much better than those from the mines

worked by Government. One about eleven carats was a very fine stone,

perfectly crystallized, in the form of an octahedron. The unfortunate

man from whom they were taken, I was informed, was very ill in prison.

I was then shown about eight hundred carats found in the regular course

of washing; they were in general very small, not one exceeding five

carats. I observed several round and many inferior ones colored. Those

with a dark green hue and rough exterior, were, they informed me, when

cut, of the purest water, and from Rio Pardo.

Here the diamonds found in the district are deposited monthly, as they

are received from the different works. They are carefully weighed, and

some selected and kept separate. The average quantity obtained may be

estimated at from 20,000 to 25,000 carats annually, which are sent

under a military escort to Rio, and there lodged in the treasury.

The diamonds are tied up in black silk bags, and deposited in elegant

inner cabinets, the whole of which are locked up in strong chests bound

with iron.

They then showed me the gold, which was in large bars, weighing from

five to ten pounds each, the whole of which I estimated at full 150lbs.

weight. It was found in the district of Cerro do Frio, and was reserved

to pay part of the expenses attending the establishment.

An excursion was some days afterwards proposed to another diamond work,

called Rio Pardo, distant about twenty miles in a north-west direction.

After proceeding a third of the way, over a country covered with a poor

wiry sort of grass, we passed several fine falls of water, and crossed

a ridge of mountains. The land as we advanced appeared much better,

though still very naked, having only a few poor crooked small trees,

that rather increased than took from its desolate appearance.

We passed through Chapada, a little dirty village, once famous for

its washings, as were all the streams and ravines in the vicinity,

and proceeded over some good clay-land, and a considerable tract of

peat-moss, well watered by streams which burst in all directions from

the hills. The country was open, and had a most romantic appearance,

caused by a quantity of low rocks of soft pudding-stone, laminated,

which lay on the surface in the most irregular forms. These lands were

well calculated for pasturage, particularly in the season of abundance,

but I was told that the cattle put to graze upon them were frequently

stolen by the negroes[48], and that there were many noxious plants in

the herbage which proved fatal to the beasts that ate them.

We arrived at the houses of the establishment about eleven in the

forenoon, and walked four miles farther to the diamond works, on

which a full troop of negroes was then employed. Rio Pardo is a dirty

paltry-looking rivulet, which runs into the Rio Velho: in some parts it

is confined by shelving rocks of quartz, through which it runs rapidly;

in others it takes a serpentine course, and forms eddies, which are

called _caldrones_, on account of their resemblance to the cavity of

a boiler. The bed of the river, though confined, has a stratum of

_cascalho_ of variable thickness, which, after the current has been

diverted, is dug up, and washed in the same way as at Jiquitinhonha.

The _caldrones_, or holes, formerly eddies, but now partly filled

with _cascalho_, so as to be no more than three or four feet deep,

are frequently found to contain many diamonds; one of them, which was

cleared by four men in as many days, produced one hundred and eighty

carats.

Rio Pardo, though paltry and insignificant in its appearance, has

produced as large a quantity of the most precious gems as any river

in the district. The rough blueish-green-colored diamonds, formerly

so much esteemed by the Hollanders, continue to be found here, and

the stones of this rivulet are to this day reputed the most valuable

in Brazil. The accompanying substances are somewhat different from

those of the washings at Mandanga; here is no bean-like iron ore, but

a considerable quantity of flinty-slate, like Lydian-stone, in various

shapes and sizes, and very small black oxide of iron; the earthy matter

is also much finer than at the above place. I was informed that there

remained as much unworked ground as would occupy a hundred negroes full

twenty years.

Rio Pardo runs about a league to the westward of Capella Velha, which

is a chapel on a mountain, washed at its base by a stream, called

Corgo de Capella Velha, which some years ago was worked, and produced

diamonds of great size and superior brilliancy. The rivulets to the

eastward of this ridge of mountains run into the Jiquitinhonha; those

to the westward have their course into the Rio Velho, which flows into

the Rio de San Francisco. The height of the mountains I had no means

of ascertaining, but they are considered as undoubtedly the highest in

Brazil. The air in this elevated region is pure and rather keen; the

thermometer in the mornings and evenings stood at 62, and at mid-day

about 74. In all the parts which I visited, the land appeared favorable

for the growth of almost every species of produce, and, if properly

inclosed and cultivated, might in no long time become the granary of

the district.

On our return to Tejuco I was shown several dwarfish trees, of the

height and size of a common crab-tree, with extremely crooked branches;

and was informed that they were a species of the _quercus suber_. I cut

from them some pieces of bark about an inch in thickness, which were

elastic, and actually proved to be cork. It seemed to me a question of

considerable interest, whether these trees, if regularly planted and

attended to, might not produce cork of as good a quality as that which

we obtain from the Mediterranean.

After resting a few days, I accompanied the Intendant to a small

diamond work, called Corolina, and returned the same day. This work

some years ago produced many good stones, but at present it employs

very few people. The mode of washing is exactly the same with that

practised at Mandanga.

At Tejuco some tolerably good barley was shown to me; it was not so

heavy as that of our best from Norfolk, and was but little known. The

Intendant uses it as provender for his mules whenever he can obtain

it. On examining the sample, I could not but reflect that, if land

so ill-managed produced such barley, how much superior would be the

quality of the grain under good management.

At a subsequent period of my visit, the Intendant, with whom

malt-liquor is a favorite beverage, expressed a desire to see some

of the barley converted into malt, in order to brew beer, and, after

repeated solicitations, I undertook to make the experiment. A quantity

was procured which I endeavoured to prepare in the best manner that

circumstances would allow. Having steeped it the requisite time,

I put it on a cold floor, and managed it as is customary in our

malt-houses; when it had germinated sufficiently, I dried it over a

slow fire; afterwards, having cleansed it from the combs by rubbing,

I crushed it, and finally mashed it. The infusion produced a tolerable

wort, which, however, I did not deem sufficiently good, as it wanted

saccharine matter: this deficiency I supplied by the admixture of a

small quantity of sugar. It was then boiled until it was judged of a

proper consistency, and a very pleasant bitter was added instead of

hops. The fermentation I endeavoured to promote with leaven, which had

been prepared a few days before, and, when that process had terminated,

the liquor was put into small casks, which we stopped close. Though

it might not prove good from the hasty manner in which the process

was conducted, yet the mode of preparing it was exemplified, which

was the main purpose of the experiment. It appeared to me by no means

impossible either to make malt or to brew beer, if proper places were

made under-ground, so as to ensure a moderate degree of cold for the

operation of malting, and for the subsequent process. Sugar is here

so abundant, that any quantity of saccharine matter might be added to

improve the poorness of the malt; and it is highly probable that a very

pleasant beverage might be made, which would relieve the inhabitants

of this remote district from the necessity of having recourse to the

metropolis for bad wines, and from the ill effects which proceed from

drinking bad spirits distilled in the vicinity.

Many parts of this fine country abound in oranges, pines, peaches,

guavas, and a great variety of indigenous fruits, both sweet and acid,

particularly the _jaboticaba_, which is very rich in mucilaginous

matter; yet no attempt has hitherto been made to obtain wine from any

of them. Ginger and pepper grow here spontaneously, and many spices

might probably be cultivated with success.

Grass for cattle was as dear at Tejuco as at Rio de Janeiro, and

the small quantity which cost eight-pence would scarcely suffice a

mule a day. The Intendant and the Captain of the cavalry had each of

them about two acres under cultivation, of a species called _Engorda

Cavallos_ (fattener of horses), which grew from five to seven feet

high, with a thick esculent stem, and long lancet-shaped leaves. It has

a large fibrous root, and is well-calculated for stony ground where

there is little earth; it even grew among rounded stones that had been

washed three years before[49].

The Intendant, who had a taste for rural economy, and more particularly

his lady, were very anxious to make their own butter and cheese, and

expressed a great desire to be instructed in the process as practised

in England, though milk was very scarce; and it was not without much

difficulty that, after sending a few miles, about three gallons were

collected. In the mean time such household utensils as were most fit

for the purpose, having been made ready, and others procured, very

excellent butter was produced, and afterwards a few cheeses were made,

which there was every reason to suppose would prove good. The lady

interested herself greatly in the experiment, not only performing part

of the operations, with the assistance of her daughter, but inviting

several of her friends in the town to see with what little trouble

the processes were performed, and distributing the products among

them[50]:—a rare example of industry! I am decidedly of opinion,

that, were the females of Brazil better educated, especially in

whatever relates to domestic economy, and were they accustomed to

see the concerns of a household conducted with regularity and order,

they would be better members of society; for I have ever observed in

them that inquisitive disposition and desire of information, which

may be called the first step to improvement. But what can be expected

from ill-educated females, reared from their infancy among negras, in

miserable houses, scarcely affording a shelter from the rain, or a

shade from the sun, and destitute of every ray of comfort!

In 1815, some iron works were established at the Morro de Pilar, a

mountain rich in ore, about twenty-five leagues south of Tejuco, on the

road to Villa Rica. The _Observador Portuguese_, vol. xvii. p. 143,

contains an interesting account of the festivities which took place

when the first sample of iron was brought from thence to the capital of

the Diamond District.

CHAP. XIV.

_Some Account of the Districts of Minas Novas and Paracatu.—Of the

large Diamond found in the River Abaiti._

IT was my intention to have continued my journey to Minas Novas, and

from thence westward to Paracatu, and to have returned by Abaiti,

a place that has produced many large diamonds, though generally of

inferior quality. This design I was prevented from accomplishing by

illness, being attacked with a violent sciatic complaint, accompanied

with great debility in the right side, which obliged me to return as

soon as possible. While I remained at Tejuco, for the purpose of

regaining strength sufficient to encounter the fatigues of a journey

back to the capital, I employed myself in collecting information

respecting these districts from intelligent persons who resided there,

as well as from officers on the establishment. The following brief

description is the result of the communications with which they favored

me.

The principal village in Minas Novas, called Tocaya, is thirty-five

leagues distant from Tejuco, in a north-easterly direction. The road

thither is parallel with the river Jiquitinhonha, which runs from two

to five leagues westward of it[51]. Numerous rivulets flow into it in

this direction, in some of which are found white topazes, more commonly

known here by the name of _minas novas_. They are pretty pellucid

pebbles, generally rounded, though sometimes they occur perfectly

crystallized, in the same form as the yellow topaz. Blue topazes

and _aqua-marinas_ are also found here; some of the former are of a

singular variety, being in one part blue, and in the other clear and

pellucid. This neighbourhood is also noted for producing the beautiful

Chrysoberyl, which is much esteemed by the higher orders of society in

Brazil, and in great request among the jewellers of Rio de Janeiro.

These gems rarely occur crystallized; they sell at considerable

prices in their rough state, and are much more valued in America than

in England, where, indeed, they are little known, or they would be

more highly appreciated, being, when polished, of great brilliancy and

exquisite beauty.

To the westward of the river Jiquitinhonha, and opposite the village

of Bom Successo, is the Cerro of Santo Antonio, a place much famed

for diamonds, which are said to be of an indifferent quality. There

are, also, other parts, well known to many of the inhabitants of the

district as being rich in these treasures.

The country is very fertile, and produces a great variety of the finest

woods for cabinet-works; also numerous fruits, and most exquisite

Vanilla, which grows spontaneously. The land, being less elevated[52]

than Cerro do Frio, is said to be much warmer, and is highly favorable

to the growth of sugar and coffee. The plantations are chiefly of

cotton, which is reputed to be equal in color and quality to that

of Maranham. It is transported to Rio de Janeiro on mules, and many

hundreds of those useful animals are continually employed in this

commerce. A troop of loaded mules are full three months, and sometimes

four, in going, and the same time in returning. These animals in this

district are double the price that they are in S. Paulo. The journeys

are attended with considerable expense and difficulty; Indian corn must

be daily bought for their use; and, notwithstanding the great attention

paid to them on the road, many die, and others are frequently lamed and

disabled. Their burdens are divided into two equal parts, and suspended

on a pack-saddle of peculiar make by straps of raw hide. The average

burden is nine _arrobas_, nearly equal to three hundred pounds weight,

the carriage-expense of which, from Rio de Janeiro to Minas Novas, is

six or seven pounds sterling; to Tejuco five pounds; to Villa Rica

about three.

The trade to Minas Novas from Rio de Janeiro consists principally in

negroes, iron, salt, woollens, hats, printed cottons, hardware, arms,

and some fancy articles, a little wine and oil, salt-fish, and butter.

Few luxuries enter these remote parts, the inhabitants seeking for

little beyond mere necessaries.

Minas Novas is under the jurisdiction of the _Ouvidor_ of Villa do

Principe, who goes thither once a year to settle disputes, administer

justice, and discharge other duties belonging to his office.

At Tocaya the Jiquitinhonha flows into a larger river, called Rio

Grande, which, taking an easterly direction, enters the sea in

lat. 16° 20´ south, near Porto Seguro. A gentleman with whom I was

acquainted undertook to navigate this fine river from Tocaya to the

sea, and, as the current was rapid, he performed the task in six

days. On his return, which occupied fifteen days, he observed several

tributary rivers, the sources of which are unknown, as they rise in the

country inhabited by the Indians. The river being free from falls, may

in a short time be frequented by vessels from sea, for I did not learn

that its entrance was shallow or unfit for navigation; probably the

land about it is low and marshy, which may be the reason that it is so

little known.

It cannot be too much recommended to the Government of Brazil,

immediately to order a survey of this river, which might be performed

in one of their launches in two months at little or no expense, and,

were it found necessary, a chain of connection might be established

from its mouth to Tocaya. The benefits resulting to the inhabitants

from opening the navigation may be easily conceived. The produce of the

country, its cotton, coffee, and sugar, its rich cabinet-woods, and

many other valuable articles, would be brought into active commerce;

extensive plantations would be established, and the whole territory

would be improved. It is true that the commerce of the district would

flow through another channel, and the tolls paid on passing the

Paraibuna, to and from the capital, would be a little diminished: but

surely the policy of Government is not so confined as to allow that

consideration to have any weight against a measure of such national

importance, when it is obvious that one of the greatest disadvantages

under which the empire of Brazil labors, is the want of traffic on all

its rivers, except to Rio Grande de St. Pedro.

The population of Minas Novas is thin, compared with its extent, but is

daily increasing. It does not appear that mining is the object which

attracts settlers, though there is a considerable quantity of precious

stones exported, which are found only here, as has been before observed.

Where the rivers are deep it is very difficult to raise the _cascalho_

from their beds, in order to wash it for gold, &c. for this purpose

various trivial and ineffectual methods are practised: it would be

highly conducive to the interest of the proprietor, as well as of the

state, to have rafts or boats constructed, and to adopt the machinery

used by the ballast-heavers on the river Thames[53], by means of which

the _cascalho_ might be raised, even from a depth of twenty feet.

The requisite iron-work might be prepared in Rio de Janeiro, (if

necessary,) and admitted into the mining country, free of duty: there

would probably be such an increase of gold obtained by it, that the

proportionate augmentation of the royal fifths would amply repay the

expense of introducing the improvement.

Paracatu is the principal village or town of a district of the same

name, which lies about ninety leagues north-west of Tejuco, bordering

on the _Capitania_ of Goyazes, from which it is separated by a chain

of high mountains that take a northerly direction. The numerous rivers

which rise on the eastern side of the mountains, and flow into the

great river S. Francisco, are rich in gold. The population of the

village is estimated at above a thousand souls, and will shortly be

more numerous, as the reputed richness of some late discoveries has

tempted many families to migrate thither. It has all the advantages of

a high and healthy situation, in the midst of a most fertile country,

and has considerable intercourse with Sabará and Villa Rica, where the

gold procured in its vicinity is permuted. It is governed by a _Capitao

Mor_, who is subordinate to the governor of the latter place, to whom

all disputes of consequence are referred. To the southward is the rich

_destacamento_ of Rio da Prata, a river that yields fine diamonds, and

has been much frequented by many adventurers, who, when discovered and

seized, are called _grimpeiros_ (smugglers). A strong guard of soldiers

is stationed here to prevent the precious stones from being sought for

clandestinely.

A few leagues to the north of the Rio Prata is the rivulet named

Abaité, celebrated for having produced the largest diamond in the

Prince’s possession, which was found about twelve years ago. Though

this circumstance has been already briefly stated, it may be allowed

me in this place to relate the particulars as they were detailed

to me during my stay at Tejuco. Three intelligent men, having been

found guilty of high crimes, were banished into the interior, and

ordered not to approach any of the capital towns, or to remain in

civilized society, on pain of perpetual imprisonment. Driven by this

hard sentence into the most unfrequented part of the country, they

endeavoured to explore new mines or new productions, in the hope

that, sooner or later, they might have the good fortune to make some

important discovery, which would obtain a reversal of their sentence,

and enable them to regain their station in society. They wandered

about in this neighbourhood, making frequent searches in its various

rivers for more than six years, during which time they were exposed

to a double risk, being continually liable to become the prey of the

Anthropophagi, and in no less danger of being seized by the soldiers

of Government. At length they by hazard made some trials in the river

Abaité, at a time when its waters were so low, in consequence of a

long season of drought, that a part of its bed was left exposed. Here,

while searching and washing for gold, they had the good fortune to

find a diamond nearly an ounce in weight. Elated by this providential

discovery, which at first they could scarcely believe to be real, yet,

hesitating between a dread of the rigorous laws relating to diamonds,

and a hope of regaining their liberty, they consulted a clergyman, who

advised them to trust to the mercy of the state, and accompanied them

to Villa Rica, where he procured them access to the governor. They

threw themselves at his feet, and delivered to him the invaluable gem

on which their hopes rested, relating all the circumstances connected

with it. The governor, astonished at its magnitude, could not trust the

evidence of his senses, but called the officers of the establishment

to decide whether it was a diamond, who set the matter beyond all

doubt. Being thus, by the most strange and unforeseen accident, put in

possession of the largest diamond ever found in America, he thought

proper to suspend the sentence of the men as a reward for their having

delivered it to him. The gem was sent to Rio de Janeiro, from whence

a frigate was dispatched with it to Lisbon, whither the holy father

was also sent to make the proper representations respecting it. The

sovereign confirmed the pardon of the delinquents, and bestowed some

preferment on the worthy sacerdote.

The governor immediately ordered a guard on the river, which was

soon afterwards worked under the direction of the Intendant of Cerro

do Frio, who sent thither an administrator and two hundred negroes.

It has since been worked at different periods with various success;

sometimes large diamonds have been found, but of an indifferent

quality. The work, being considered unprofitable, is now abandoned by

Government, but it yet gives occupation to numbers of adventurers. Its

neighbourhood has many interesting places, hitherto but little explored.

A few leagues from this river is a very rich vein of lead ore in

calcareous spar. I have seen pieces of it of the weight of twenty

pounds, and it is said to be so abundant, that any quantity may be

obtained. Some of the specimens presented to me were covered with

carbonate of lead. It has not the appearance of being rich in silver.

No one has undertaken to work it, as the difficulty and expense of

conveying the metal to Rio de Janeiro, would exceed the price at which

it would sell for at present in that market[54]. When the neighbourhood

becomes more populous, and the value of this useful metal is better

known, the mine will probably be a source of riches; for lead ore is

certainly scarce in Brazil, nor did I hear of any other place which

produces it.

The river St. Francisco is very considerable, and is said to contain

great quantities of fish[55], which is a sufficient proof that there

are but few (if any) gold-washings in it. On the banks, and in the

country to the eastward, great numbers of cattle are bred, which are

sold in all the populous towns of the captaincy, and large herds are

sent to Rio de Janeiro, a distance of above six hundred miles. A

considerable commerce is carried on with them, and some families, who

raise large numbers, are reported to have acquired great fortunes by

it. The want of salt is a very general complaint; it is requisite for

the cattle, nor will they breed well without it.

This district is too far distant from a sea-port to enjoy any extent

of commerce in the general articles of its produce. Gold and precious

stones are easily transported, but lead, and other commodities of

greater bulk and inferior value, would scarcely pay the expense of

carriage. Hence no cotton, coffee, or sugar is grown for exportation,

and the quantity consumed in the district is very limited, owing to

the small number of the inhabitants, and the miserable indigence in

which they generally live, their common diet being Indian corn-flour,

boiled beans, and a little pork. The trade to Rio de Janeiro is much

similar to that of Minas Novas, and consists chiefly in iron, salt,

cotton-prints, woollens, arms, hardware, and a few trivial luxuries:

also hats and India goods. Persons of all ranks are eager to purchase

negroes. The only articles sent to Villa Rica are gold-dust and hides.

In this district, and in other parts of these immense territories,

particularly to the eastward, are large tracts of land _devoluto_, or

not occupied by any person under a grant from government. These lands

to a considerable extent (half a league to a league square) may be

taken by making proper application, and afterwards held as freehold.

Other excellent situations are in the possession of indigent people,

who are equally incapable and unwilling to reap advantage from them.

These may be bought very cheap, and are certainly preferable to the

unoccupied tracts, as they have generally some few conveniences

attached to them, and may, therefore, more easily be brought into a

proper state of cultivation. Here is every inducement for a spirited

and experienced agriculturist to settle: a rich and fertile district,

in which there remains much to be discovered in every department, where

all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life are produced

almost spontaneously; and where the exertions of industry would be

rewarded in a tenfold degree by the bounteous hand of nature, and

stimulated by the certain hope of arousing a slender population to

follow the example. Nor could there be any objection on the score of

differences in opinion; for I am persuaded that no one would here be

molested for his religious tenets, while he prudently avoided giving

offence, and paid the same regard to the conscience of his neighbour

which he expected for his own.

CHAP. XV.

_Observations on Tejuco and Cerro do Frio_.

IN the foregoing pages I have endeavoured to present to the reader

a narrative of whatever I observed worthy of note in the Diamond

District, and have related the several particulars in the order in

which they occurred to me, reserving the task of general description

for that period of my residence there when I might be supposed best

qualified to perform it. This mode of proceeding will expose me to

the risk of a few repetitions, for which my apology must rest on the

peculiar circumstances under which I visited Tejuco,—on the continual

journeys in which I was occupied from the moment of my arrival to the

time when I was attacked by illness, and which left me no leisure for

combining my actual observations with general views of the country.

The district of Cerro do Frio consists of rugged mountains, that have

a northerly and southerly direction, and are generally allowed to be

the highest in Brazil. What is termed the Diamond ground, extends

about sixteen leagues from north to south, and about eight from east

to west. It was first explored by some enterprising miners from Villa

do Principe, a few years after the establishment of that town. These

men proceeding northerly found an open country, watered by many small

rivulets, which they tried for gold by washing: some of them engaged

their attention for a short time, but not proving sufficiently rich,

they continued their route, passing the places now called San Gonçalo

and Milho Verde, until they arrived at a few streams that flow from the

base of the mountain on which Tejuco is built. These rivulets were then

washed for gold, and were considered as belonging to the district of

Villa do Principe. No idea was at first entertained that the rivulets

contained diamonds, although it is said that some were collected and

presented to the then governor of Villa do Principe as curious bright

stones, and were used by him as counters at cards. Soon afterwards a

few of them found their way to Lisbon, and were given as pretty pebbles

to the Dutch minister to send to Holland, which was then the principal

mart in Europe for precious stones. The lapidaries, to whom they were

presented for examination, pronounced these pebbles to be very fine

diamonds. Information was accordingly sent to the Dutch consul at

Lisbon, who did not fail to profit by the occasion; for he managed the

affair with Government so well, that he contracted for the precious

stones, at the same time that he communicated the intelligence.

Government afterwards endeavoured to monopolize the diamonds, and made

a distinct district of Cerro do Frio, placing it under peculiar laws

and regulations.

The number of diamonds sent over during the first twenty years after

the discovery is said to be almost incredible, and to exceed one

thousand ounces in weight. This supply could not fail to diminish the

general value of diamonds, as none had ever before been known to come

from any other part of the globe, except India, whither the Brazilian

diamonds were afterwards sent, and found a better market there than in

Europe.

By stratagems and intrigues Government was prevailed on to let these

invaluable territories to a company, who were under stipulations to

work with a limited number of negroes, or to pay a certain sum per

day for every negro employed. This opened a door to every species of

fraud; double the stipulated number of negroes was admitted; and this

imposition was connived at by the agents of Government, who received

pay in one hand and bribes in the other. Presents were made to men

possessing influence at court, by the contractors, who soon became

rich; and they continued (subject to a few regulations) in possession

of the diamond mines until about the year 1772, when, Government

determining to take them into their own hands, these contracts were

ended.

This was the time for reforming abuses, and for placing this rich

district under the best regulations, but it was neglected; prejudice

prevailed over prudence; and the management was entrusted to men

who did not understand the real interests of the concern, or, what

is more probable, who were so shackled in their authority, that

they could not pursue them. From this time, affairs became worse,

and the establishment was in debt to foreigners, who had advanced a

considerable sum of money on the security of having all the diamonds

which the mines produced. There were other incumbrances, which can be

removed only by a total change of system. In its present state the

establishment appears to produce much greater wealth than it actually

does. During a period of five years, from 1801 to 1806 inclusive,

the expenses were £204,000; and the diamonds sent to the treasury at

Rio de Janeiro weighed 115,675 carats. The value of gold found in

the same period amounted to £17,300 sterling, from which it appears

that the diamonds actually cost Government thirty-three shillings and

nine-pence per carat. These years were esteemed singularly productive;

the mines do not in general yield to Government more than 20,000 carats

annually[56].

The town is under the absolute government of the Intendant. The

principal officers of the civil and military establishments are, an

_ouvidor_ or _fiscal_, a captain of cavalry, and a _capitao mor_. In

the Diamond establishment there is a great number of officers, of

whom the following are the principal: 1st, the Intendant, who is a

judge, and intendant-general of the Diamond district (this office

is one of the best in the gift of the crown): 2d. the Treasurer,

whose situation is almost a sinecure; he receives 8,000 crusades _per

annum_: and 3d. the Administrator-general, who has a salary of 6000.

The book-keeper has 4,000; and three clerks, or key-keepers, have from

800 to 1,000 each. These officers are employed in whatever relates to

the treasury, or to the general concerns of the establishment; they

all reside in Tejuco, and are the most respectable of the inhabitants.

The management of the different works is entrusted to eight or ten

under-administrators, each having in his care two hundred negroes,

called a troop; to which, besides a clergyman and a surgeon, are

attached several overseers and subordinate officers, who have salaries

of from 400 to 200 crusades. The privilege of employing a certain

number of negroes in the works is common to all the officers, to an

extent corresponding with their rank; the superior officers let to hire

as many as they please, say forty, and sometimes upwards of fifty; the

inferior officers are permitted to let out two or three, in preference

to other individuals; a decidedly bad practice, as will be shown

hereafter.