The sides of the ravine towards the top were bare, and of different

shades of color, being tinged by the water which flows from the

vegetable matter above: in the bottom, on the surface that was yet

unworked, lay some huge, half-rounded, amorphous masses. In the parts

which had been worked, I observed two or three substances of the same

kind, which being too large to be moved, the earth which imbedded

them had been cut away, and they appeared like detached nodules.

On breaking a fragment from one of them, with my hammer, I was much

surprised to find it a calcareous substance, a solid mass composed of

hexagonal crystals, with a small portion of brilliant specular iron

ore. I presented this fragment to the proprietor, informing him that it

was limestone, at which he was truly astonished, having never before

heard of stonelime[31]; nor would he believe me until I proved it by

calcination. The mountains, as I afterwards found, are of the same

substance.

As I stood observing the heavy operation of cutting and carrying away

the surface to get at the _cascalho_, it occurred to me that much

time and labor might be saved by arching the work with brick; but, on

suggesting the idea, I was informed that the sole or bottom was quite

decomposed, and subject to much water.

There is reason to suppose that the stratum of limestone, below the

earth in the bottom of the valley, is of very modern formation, and

that, if not too thick to cut through, there might be found, between

it and the granite stratum underneath, a bed of _cascalho_ of prior

formation, much richer in gold than the upper stratum.

After having investigated these works, we made an excursion of seven

or eight miles, chiefly over a rich plain, abounding with the finest

timber. On the margins of the rivulets which we crossed, I observed

that the moss was incrusted, somewhat like the tuffa at Matlock; and,

on more particular examination, I found a stratum of tuffa in all

the valleys, a few inches below the surface, which, as I conjecture,

must have proceeded from the deposition of calcareous matter by the

overflowings of the streams after heavy rains. The hills, even at

this distance, were composed of the same sparry limestone as at the

gold-washing. It is much to be wished that the value of this material

were duly appreciated at the capital, where the cost of the wood used

in burning shells into lime, exceeds the price at which lime brought

from Santa Rita might be delivered, if proper roads were made for its

conveyance from this district to Porto das Caixas. Such an undertaking

highly deserves the attention of His Highness’s ministers; the benefits

likely to result from it are incalculable, and the expense attending it

would be trifling; for in no part of the globe are roads made so cheap,

or public works of any kind done on such moderate terms, as in Brazil.

This fine but almost uninhabited district produces spontaneously many

valuable articles of commerce, which run to waste for want of hands to

cultivate and gather them. Here is found that celebrated variety of

the palm-tree, the long, serrated, lancet-formed leaves of which are

composed of innumerable fibres, that rival silk both in fineness and

strength. I bought some fishing-lines made of them for a mere trifle;

and I have no doubt that, if proper means were employed to propagate

the growth of the trees, this valuable substance might be produced in

as great plenty, and at as cheap a rate, as flax is in England. I laid

before His Highness’s ministers, a project for using it as a substitute

for that article in the manufacture of fine cordage, and I shewed by

experiment that it was fully adequate to the purpose.

We remained two days at Santa Rita and its vicinity, and on the third,

set out on our return, taking the same route by which we came. In some

parts we observed numerous flocks of birds, particularly parrots, and

a few fine wild hens of the wood, and these were the only objects that

engaged our attention. We reached Canta Gallo without having met with

any monstrous serpents, or any other uncommon sights which travellers

often see or fancy in a strange country.

After a few days’ rest, I set out, accompanied by a guide, to the

supposed silver-mine, notice having previously been sent to the men to

prepare them for my coming. We travelled for about two miles through a

deep valley, and arrived at a rapid stream called Macáco, which runs

between two almost perpendicular mountains of very inconsiderable

height, along one of which the road leads for about a mile and a half.

Having passed this gloomy and dangerous ravine, we proceeded half a

league farther, and halted at a neat farm-house called Machado, with

a portion of good and well-cultivated land around it, which looked

like a garden in the wilderness. The owner, a native of the Azores,

received us very politely, and introduced us to his lady, who, with her

blooming family of daughters, was engaged in needle-work on materials

of their own spinning. The neatness of their dress, and the general

air of propriety and comfort in the apartment where they sat, strongly

reminded me of my country; and when they regaled us with liquor made

from the fruits of their own farm, the image of our domestic scenes in

rural life was complete: I could almost have fancied myself transported

from the rugged wilds of Brazil to the smiling vales of England.

We left this peaceful abode; and, advancing for six miles through

thickets and forests, and over some plain land, we reached a farm

called St. Antonio, belonging to a widow named Dona Anna, who is

noted throughout the country for making excellent butter and cheese.

The dwelling is of two stories, and neat, but very inconvenient. The

good lady gave me a hearty repast of milk, and we entered into some

conversation respecting her dairy, in which I learned that she knew no

other mode of making butter than that of agitating the cream in a jar

or bottle; and her notions of cheese-making were equally defective,

In looking about the grounds for an hour, while our mules rested, I

noticed an excellent fence, formed by planting a strong thorny shrub,

that seemed of very rapid and luxuriant growth. The few cows that were

grazing in the inclosures appeared to be of a superior breed, but were

not managed with either method or foresight. The principal produce of

the farm is Indian corn, and a little cheese; the latter is only made

occasionally, when there happens to be a sufficient supply of milk for

the purpose.

We were here shewn various samples of earthy matter, wrapped very

carefully in paper, and preserved with great secrecy, under the names

of platina, silver, &c. They proved to be merely small crystals of

shining iron ore, and pyrites.

Proceeding a league over a fine country, we reached the Rio Grande, a

stream as large as the Derwent at Derby, which we crossed in a canoe,

our mules swimming after us as usual. We passed several groupes of

Aborigines, and occasionally saw many of their huts and places of

abode. The road now led along the bases of some huge bold mountains

of granite, from whose summits rushed fine cascades of water. The low

ground was interspersed with fragments of the same rock, lying in

heaps in every direction. In many places the grass was so tall that

it reached above the skirts of my saddle, and, the weather being wet,

rendered me very uncomfortable. After a laborious, and latterly a slow

progress, we arrived by sun-set at the house of Father Thomas de Nossa

Senhora da Conceição, who kindly accommodated us for the night.

The house was new, and neatly built, containing only four rooms, with

boarded floors; a convenience very rarely to be met with in these

parts. It is absolutely encircled with fine streams, abounding with

water-falls, which render the roads to it at all times indifferent,

and in wet weather almost impassable. The father, an intelligent and

industrious man, informed me that he took up that land about four years

since, that he had only one negro, and had no funds wherewith to carry

on his undertaking, except seven or eight pounds _per annum_, which he

gained by his profession as a clergyman; this he expended in hiring

those who chose to work. He shewed me his garden, which was full of

fine coffee-trees, and was kept in the neatest order; his fields were

covered with Indian corn; his live-stock consisted of a good milch

cow, a number of pigs, and one mule. On asking him how he disposed

of his produce, he told me that dealers came and purchased it on the

spot. The whole of the _sesmaria_, or plantation, with the stock upon

it, he valued at four hundred pounds sterling, and said that he had

no doubt he could obtain that price for it. These were clear data for

calculating the profits of farming, when managed with prudence and

industry. Here is a man who, having begun with little or nothing,

finds himself, at the end of four years, worth four hundred pounds; a

snug independency in these parts, and not more than his exertions and

perseverance deserved. Father Thomas lived more comfortably than any

person I had hitherto met with in this district: he was economical, but

not parsimonious; liberal in his sentiments, frank and communicative in

his conversation, and polite in his manners.

Here I was met by the discoverers of the reputed silver-mine, who came

to conduct me to it. We set out on foot, and, after walking about

six miles over mountains impassable for mules, fording rivulets, and

passing thickets that left me scarcely a single article of dress

untorn, we arrived at the miserable hut of these poor men; a perfect

contrast to the neat dwelling of Father Thomas. Never in my life was

I so exhausted by fatigue; I sat down, unable to go any farther, and

rested about an hour, when, being somewhat recovered, I accompanied

the men, along the edge of a beautiful stream, to the foot of the

mountain, where they shewed me a hole which they had dug, about two

feet deep, and informed me that the sand it contained at the bottom

abounded with grains of silver. Having ordered a quantity to be taken

out, I proceeded to examine the base of the mountain, which I found to

be of granite-like gneiss, with garnets, and small crystals of pyrites.

Near this place the margin of the rivulet contained rounded stones

and sand, but no where was there to be found any metallic substance,

except the one before mentioned. Indeed, the very idea of silver

appearing here in dust or grains, as gold does, would be preposterous,

and contradictory to every principle of nature, as, in such a state, it

would probably have been attacked by the sulphur in the pyrites, so as

to have assumed the form of a sulphuret.

I returned extremely wearied and much exhausted to Father Thomas’s,

where, after some needful repose, I proceeded to examine the sand and

stones I had collected at the supposed silver-mine, but no particle

of metal was to be found. I then ordered the men to produce their

samples, which I examined both by the blow-pipe and by acids, but

no silver appeared. After equivocating very much, they acknowledged

that they had rubbed and beaten substances to powder, and when they

found specular iron ore they thought it was silver. In one of the

samples there certainly was silver, but it appeared to have been filed

probably from an old buckle or spoon, or rubbed on a stone and mixed

with a pulverized substance. The farce could no longer be carried on:

I charged them, in a most determined manner, with imposture, which,

after some hesitation, they confessed: an officer who was with me

would have secured them, but I restrained him; for, having obtained a

confession, I was unwilling to bring them to punishment, or to render

them more miserable than they already were, by having them sent to the

army. Perhaps that would have been doing them a greater service than

setting them at liberty; for they were too lazy to work, and would, no

doubt, return to their old habits of prowling about, and subsisting

on the credulity of the public by spreading fallacious reports about

mines, precious stones, &c. Such impositions are not uncommon in South

America: I have known instances in which copper-filings, mixed with

earth, and afterwards washed, have been produced as samples, in order

to enhance the value of land, or serve some other sinister purpose. A

passion for mining is fatally prevalent among some of the lower orders

of the people: by deluding them with prospects of becoming speedily

rich, it creates in them a disgust for labor, and entails want and

wretchedness upon them. Even among the few families of this district,

I observed some examples of its effects; those who devoted themselves

wholly to mining were in general badly clothed and worse fed, while

those who attended to agriculture alone were well provided with every

necessary of life.

Having concluded the affair, I took leave of Father Thomas, and

returned to Canta Gallo, where I prepared my papers for a report

respecting it, as the Conde de Linhares, had desired me. During the

remainder of my stay I collected specimens of the different species of

wood, which the neighbourhood produces. The following is a list of

them:

_Tapinhoam Canella_—Hard, and excellent for sheathing ships.

_Venatico_—excellent timber.

_Cedar_—good and durable.

_Socupira_, also called _pao ferro_—hard and good.

_Olio_—very solid, and of a peculiar fragrance.

_Cubiuna._

_Jaracandá_—cabinet-wood, variegated, black and yellow—This is

called rose-wood in England: but the best sorts, as it appears to me,

have not hitherto been imported.

_Jaracatangá._

_Ubatanga._

_Palms_—many varieties, among which is the iriri, before described.

Its wood, though small, is unrivalled for strength and elasticity.

_Garfauna_—the bark of which, as I was informed, affords a yellow dye.

_Embé_—a creeping plant. The stems are used instead of cords, and

often made into bridles.

Many species of thorny trees.

Most of the above-named species of woods are of large growth, and well

calculated for ship-building. It is remarkable that this district

produces none of the dye-wood called Brazil wood.

Here are innumerable fruit-trees and shrubs which I have omitted to

particularize. Tobacco is cultivated in some parts, and is always

manufactured into roll by uniting the leaves with each other, and

twisting them with a winch. By this operation the juice is expressed,

and after a short exposure to the atmosphere, the color of the tobacco

changes from green to black.

Of wild animals, ounces are the most common; they are met with of

various colors, some black and brown-red. Tapirs or antas are not

unfrequent, but I saw only the footsteps of some of them. Wild hogs

breed here in great numbers, and also long-bearded monkeys; the

latter, when asleep, snore so loud as to astonish the traveller. The

most formidable reptiles are the corral snake, the surocucu, the

surocucu-tinga, and the jararaca, all said to be mortally venomous,

none of which I ever saw on the journey, except a small one of the

former species.

The prevailing method of clearing and cultivating the land here, is

precisely similar to that practised in the neighbourhood of S. Paulo.

After the timber and underwood have been cut down and burnt (often

very imperfectly), the negresses dibble the seed; in about six weeks

a slight weeding is performed, and then the ground is let alone till

harvest. The seed-time begins in October and lasts until November; the

maize is ripe in four or five months. The next year they commonly sow

beans on the corn land, which they then let lie, and proceed to clear

new ground. It is not common to molest the land from which they have

had two crops in succession, before eight or ten years have elapsed.

The sugar-cane and mandioca require from fourteen to eighteen months.

Coffee, planted by shoots, bears fruit in two years, and is in

perfection in five or six years. Cottons and palma Christi, raised from

seed, bear the first year.

Transplanting is only practised with tobacco; engrafting is little

known and rarely attempted.

The Indian corn is ground by a horizontal water-wheel, which acquires

great velocity from the rush of water upon it. On the upper end is

fixed the mill-stone, which makes from fifty to sixty revolutions in a

minute. They have likewise a mode of pounding the corn into flour, by a

machine called a Sloth. Near a current of water a large wooden mortar

is placed, the pestle of which is mortised into the end of a lever

twenty-five or thirty feet long, resting upon a fulcrum at five-eights

of its length. The extremity of the shorter arm of this beam is

scooped out, so as to receive a sufficient weight of water to raise

the other end, to which appends the pestle, and to discharge itself

when it has sunk to a given point. The alternate emptying and filling

of this cavity cause the elevation and fall of the pestle, which take

place about four times per minute. This contrivance surpasses all

others in simplicity; and in a place where the waste of water is of no

consequence, it completely answers its purpose.

[Illustration: HORIZONTAL CORN MILL.

POUNDING MACHINE.]

[Illustration: Mandioca first set cuttings.

Commencing to grow & form Root.

Nearly full grown & appearance of the Root.]

Having finished my affairs at Canta Gallo, I set out on my return to

the capital, accompanied for about a league of the road by the worthy

governor, the captain, the treasurer, and almost all the inhabitants.

During a residence of about fifteen days among these excellent men,

my table had been sumptuously supplied without cost, and I had been

treated with a degree of respect far exceeding my expectations or

merits. I took leave of them with regret, wishing most sincerely that

it might be in my power to be of service to them at court, by making

representations in their favor.

I arrived at Morro Queimado at night, after a journey of thirty-four

miles[32], and on the next day, in good time, reached the house of

my worthy friend Captain Ferreira. Being now less pressed for time,

I took a more leisurely survey of his establishment, particularly of

his sugarwork and distillery, both which are very ill conducted. When

I saw the furnaces for heating the coppers in the latter, I freely

told the Captain, that they could not have been constructed on a worse

plan, but I received for answer, that no better was known. It would,

indeed, be extremely difficult to introduce improvements into this

or any other parts of the distillery, for every thing is left to the

management of the negroes. When I asked any question concerning the

process, the owner professed his ignorance of it, and sent for one of

the African foremen to answer me. With this man I reasoned respecting

the excessive quantity of fuel consumed to no purpose, and proposed a

method for saving it, as well as for correcting the disagreeable taste

of the rum, caused by the empyreuma; which was, to redistil it with an

equal quantity of water, taking care previously to clean out the still;

but he only laughed at me, and signified that his certainly must be the

best method, for he had learned it of an old sugar-maker. Thus it is,

that from the indifference of the owners to their own interest, things

are suffered to go on in the same routine, being left to the direction

of men who shrink from a temporary increase of labor, even when it

promises them a lasting advantage. This aversion to improvement I have

often observed among the inhabitants of Brazil: when, for instance, I

have questioned a brick-maker, a sugar-maker, a soap-boiler, or even

a miner, as to his reasons for conducting his concerns in such an

imperfect manner, I have been almost invariably referred to a negro for

answers to my interrogatories.

Some parts of this estate are said to contain gold, and at the time

of my visit, Captain Ferreira was negociating for permission from

Government to work them. I presented to him a drawing of a plan for

washing the _cascalho_ in a manner superior to that commonly practised,

and explained to him the use of grinding or stamping those concrete

masses frequently found in it, which generally contain particles of

gold, but being too hard to be crushed by the hand, are thrown aside

among the debris.

In this _fazenda_, as in most others, the conveniences for storing

the produce, are so very poor and imperfect, that the weevil soon

gets into the corn, and the cotton, coffee, and other produce are

liable to be deteriorated in a thousand ways. The stabling, too, is

bad, and the cattle are deplorably neglected; indeed, the only part

of the live-stock that seems to be tolerably well attended to, is the

swine. In the dwelling-house I observed a total inattention to domestic

comfort; its general appearance confirmed a remark which I had often

heard made, that the owners of estates here, dislike to live upon them,

and considering their residence as only temporary, make shift with poor

accommodations.

The tract of land belonging to the farm is full two miles square, and

though still susceptible of great improvement, has not been wholly

neglected; the parts already cleared have produced many valuable crops,

and the rest will no doubt, in a few years, be brought to an equally

promising state of cultivation.

Having staid two days with Captain Ferreira, I set out on the morning

of the third for Porto das Caixas, where I arrived at two o’clock,

after a journey of thirty miles, and was delayed some time, as the

river was crowded with vessels, laden with ship-timber, for the

capital. As soon as the navigation became sufficiently open, I embarked

in a large boat, of about ten tons burthen, and rowing all night to

the mouth of the river, sailed with a land wind, and arrived at Rio

de Janeiro about noon. My first care was to inform His Excellency the

minister of my return, after which I employed a few days in drawing up

my journal for his inspection. He received it in the handsomest manner,

and laid it before his Royal Highness, who was pleased to signify, that

my description of the country, through which I had travelled, merited

his approbation.

[Illustration: _Published as the Act directs, 1822, by Longman & C.^o

Paternoster Row._]

CHAP. X.

_Permission obtained to visit the Diamond Mines.—Account of a

pretended Diamond presented to the Prince Regent.—Journey to Villa

Rica._

AFTER I had thoroughly recovered from the fatigues of my late journey,

I solicited his Royal Highness for permission to go and explore the

diamond mines of Cerro do Frio. This favor had never as yet been

granted to a foreigner, nor had any Portuguese been permitted to visit

the vicinity where the works are situated, except on business relative

to them, and even then under restrictions, which rendered it impossible

to acquire the means of giving an adequate description of them to the

public. Through the kind friendship of the Conde de Linhares, the

permission was granted, and my passports and letters of recommendation

were speedily made out. Lord Strangford was much pleased at my being

so highly favored, and willingly offered his service, and represented

me favorably at court. I obtained admission to the archives, for the

purpose of examining all the manuscript maps, and of copying from any

of them whatever might be necessary to guide me in my route. It may

here be proper to observe, that the most eligible mode of travelling

in the interior of Brazil, especially on such an excursion as I had

undertaken, is to procure orders from the government, and an escort of

soldiers, who have a right, under such orders, to require proper relays

of mules from all persons who reside on or near the road. The Conde

de Linhares intimated to me, that I might select any two soldiers I

thought proper, and while I was deliberating on the choice, a singular

occurrence took place, which was the means of furnishing me with two

men of the corps of miners, who were appointed to attend me, under an

injunction on the part of His Excellency, that their future promotion

would depend entirely on the report which I should give of their

conduct after my return. I am happy to say that their services merited

every commendation.

The occurrence to which I allude was this:—A free negro of Villa

do Principe, about nine hundred miles distant, had the assurance to

write a letter to the Prince Regent, announcing that he possessed an

amazingly large diamond which he had received from a deceased friend

some years ago, and which he begged he might have the honor to present

to His Royal Highness in person. As the magnitude which this poor

fellow ascribed to his diamond was such as to raise imagination to its

highest pitch, an order was immediately dispatched to the commander

of Villa do Principe, to send him forthwith to Rio de Janeiro; he was

accommodated with a conveyance, and escorted by two soldiers. As he

passed along the road, all who had heard the report hailed him as

already honored with a cross of the order of S. Bento, and as sure

of being rewarded with the pay of a general of brigade. The soldiers

also anticipated great promotion; and all persons envied the fortunate

negro. At length, after a journey which occupied about twenty-eight

days, he arrived at the capital, and was straightway conveyed to the

palace. His happiness was now about to be consummated, in a few moments

the hopes which he had for so many years indulged, would be realized,

and he should be exalted from a low and obscure condition, to a state

of affluence and distinction:—such, no doubt, were the thoughts which

agitated him during the moments of suspence. At length he was admitted

into the presence; he threw himself at the Prince’s feet, and delivered

his wonderful gem. His Highness was astonished at its magnitude; a

pause ensued; the attendants waited to hear the Prince’s opinion, and

what he said they seconded. A round diamond, nearly a pound in weight,

filled them all with wonder; some ready calculators reckoned the

millions it was worth; others found it difficult to numerate the sum

at which it would be valued, but the general opinion of His Highness’s

servants was, that the treasury was many millions of crowns the richer.

The noise which this occurrence created among the higher circles, may

be easily conceived; the general topic of remark and wonder, was

the negro’s offering. It was shewn to the ministers, among whom an

apprehension, and even a doubt, was expressed, that a substance so

large and round might not prove a real diamond; they, however, sent it

to the treasury under a guard, and it was lodged in the deposit of the

jewel-room.

On the next day, the Conde de Linhares sent for me, and related all the

circumstances which had come to his knowledge respecting this famous

jewel, adding, in a low tone of voice, that he had his doubts about

its proving a genuine diamond. His Excellency directed me to attend

at his office in a few hours, when letters from himself and the other

ministers to the Treasury should be given me[33], for permission to see

this invaluable gem, in order to determine what it really was. Readily

accepting a charge of so interesting a nature, I prepared myself, and

attended at the hour appointed, when I received the letters, which I

presented at the treasury to an officer in waiting, I was led through

several apartments, in which much business seemed to be transacting,

to the grand chamber, where presided the treasurer, attended by his

secretaries. Having my letters in his hand, he entered into some

conversation with me relative to the subject; I was then shewn through

other grand apartments hung with scarlet and gold, and ornamented with

figures as large as life, representing justice holding the balance. In

the inner room, to which we were conducted, there were several strong

chests with three locks each, the keys of which were kept by three

different officers, who were all required to be present at the opening.

One of these chests being unlocked, an elegant little cabinet was taken

out, from which the treasurer took the gem, and in great form presented

it to me. Its value sunk at the first sight, for before I touched it,

I was convinced that it was a rounded piece of crystal. It was above

two inches in diameter. On examining it, I told the governor it was

not a diamond; and to convince him I took a diamond of five or six

carats, and with it cut a very deep nick in the stone. This was proof

positive; a certificate was accordingly made out, stating, that it was

an inferior substance of little or no value, which I signed.

Other boxes were now unlocked, from one of which they showed me two

large slabs of diamond, each a full inch on the superficies, and about

the eighth of an inch in thickness, of a very bad brown color. When

found, they formed one entire piece, which, being amorphous, was not

known to be a diamond, until the administrator or chief of the working

party, after keeping it by him many days, had recourse to the old

experiment of placing it on a hard stone and striking it with a hammer.

The result of this experiment is, that if the substance resist the

blow, or, separate in laminæ, it must be a diamond; the latter was the

case in the present instance, and the man having thus made two diamonds

from one, transmitted them to the intendant.

The river Abaité, from whence these pieces came, has produced one of

an octahedral form, which weighs seven-eights of an ounce Troy, and is

perhaps the largest diamond in the world. It was found about twelve

years ago by three men who were under sentence of banishment for high

crimes; but on presenting this valuable gem to the then Viceroy, they

were pardoned and rewarded. It is now in the private possession of the

Prince Regent.

I was afterwards favored with a sight of the remaining diamonds in the

Treasury; they appeared to be in quantity about four or five thousand

carats. The largest did not generally exceed eight carats, except

one of a fine octahedral form, full seventeen. Among the few colored

diamonds, one of the smallest was of a beautiful pink, one of a fine

blue, and several were of a green tinge; the yellow were the most

common and least esteemed.

Having now finished my business, I took my leave of the treasurer, with

thanks for his polite attention, and on my return home wrote a letter

to the Conde de Linhares, stating the result of my visit. It was no

agreeable task to a stranger to have to announce that a substance which

had been considered as an inestimable addition to the treasures of

the state, was in reality, though singular in its appearance, of very

trifling value, and this too in a letter which was to be laid before

the Prince. His Highness, however, was prepared for the intelligence,

and was too noble-minded to manifest any chagrin at the disappointment.

The poor negro who had presented it was of course deeply afflicted by

this unwelcome news; instead of being accompanied home by an escort,

he had to find his way thither as he could, and would, no doubt,

have to encounter the ridicule and contempt of those who had of late

congratulated him on his good fortune.

When I had nearly completed my preparations for the journey, Mr.

Goodall, a most respectable merchant, expressed a desire to accompany

me to Villa Rica, which I readily acceded to, as he was a most

agreeable companion. Lord Strangford having procured him passports from

the ministers, he was enabled to join me without delay. On the 17th

of August, 1809, we set out on a journey which no Englishman had ever

before undertaken, nor had any ever yet been permitted to pass the

barrier of alpine mountains that stretch along the coast.

Having embarked in a large market-boat with our retinue, which

consisted of the two soldiers before mentioned, and my servant, a most

trusty negro-boy, we made sail at mid-day with a sea-breeze, and ran

down the bay about six leagues. We then passed the island of Governador

and various others, one of which was the beautiful Cocoa-nut island.

Proceeding along the strait, formed by it and another of similar

extent, we crossed a fine open bay, and arrived at the mouth of the

Moremim, a picturesque river which presents in its serpentine course

a great variety of beautiful scenery. It was now sun-set; the weather

was mild and serene, and we paused awhile to enjoy one of the finest

rural prospects which we had ever seen in Brazil—a fine romantic

fore-ground, enriched by the vivid foliage of the woods on the banks of

the stream, and contrasted by the bold outline of the mountains in the

distance, among which we noticed that singular chain of perpendicular

rocks, called the Organpipe mountains, from their resemblance in form

and position to the front of the instrument alluded to. Having advanced

two leagues up the river, we arrived at a village on its margin,

called Porto da Estrella, a place of great stir and bustle, on account

of the hourly arrival of numerous droves of mules laden with produce

from the interior. Here are some poor dwellings, and a number of large

storehouses for the reception of the produce. The muleteers, being

provided with bedding and cooking utensils, never leave their cattle,

so that good inns are to them unnecessary. We were shewn into the best

in the place, which was as dirty and inconvenient as can possibly be

imagined. I shall forbear to detail the discomforts of the night, and

merely observe that they were such as to make us early stirrers in

the morning. Our soldiers procured us mules, but owing to the great

bustle of loading and unloading, we were not in travelling order until

ten o’clock. We now proceeded about three leagues along the low land,

having the range of mountains on our left, and passing the village

of Piedade entered on a beautiful plain at their base. We stopped at

a house at which the Prince Regent had remained three nights for the

benefit of the air; but not being able to procure refreshment there, we

passed on and began our ascent along an excellent paved road, extending

five miles on a very steep elevation along the sides and over the

ridges of the mountains. Having rested awhile at the half-way-house,

which we had been near an hour in gaining, we toiled on, relieving

ourselves at times by turning to take a view of Rio de Janeiro, and the

bay, which from this lofty eminence appeared to great advantage. With

some difficulty we reached the summit, which, as I suppose, is four

thousand feet above the level of the sea; the atmosphere was at least

ten degrees colder than on the plain.

Our next halting place was a small village called Corgo Seco, situated

in a most rugged and uneven district, with not half an acre of level

ground in any part of its vicinity. Having taken some refreshment here,

we proceeded to Belmonte, a beautiful spot, situated by the edge of a

rapid stream, which washes the base of an immense mountain of granite

on the left. We journeyed along this stream until we reached a station

called Padre Correa, from the name of its owner. It consists of a

house and chapel, with a handsome area in front. The Father maintains

a large establishment of negroes, many of whom are employed in beating

out mules’ shoes from the cool Swedish iron, after they have been

forged into form. For these articles there is a considerable demand,

as the unwrought material pays no duty on this side the river Paraiba,

while on the other it is taxed full 100 _per cent_. which is also the

case with salt. The great consumption of these necessary articles has

probably induced Government to lay these heavy duties upon them, but

certainly every principle of good policy furnishes an argument against

the measure. Padre Correa received us very hospitably, afforded us an

asylum for the night, and assisted us in regulating our baggage by

supplying a pair of cane panniers for one of the mules, which proved

very serviceable. Before sun-rise we were awakened by the clatter

of hammers in the forges; the weather was dewy, and so cold that my

thermometer was down at 46 degrees. We passed some time in viewing the

garden, which was in tolerable order, and contained some fine peach

trees in blossom. Our host informed us, that he had a good plantation

a few miles distant, but his chief concern was the selling of corn and

shoes for the use of the mules.

Leaving this station we skirted the Piabunha, a river abounding in

falls, which flows into the Paraiba. Among the hills and dales which

we traversed, we at times observed farm-houses and plantations; but

the road, farther on, was quite confined by continual wood-scenery.

After proceeding about twenty miles we reached Cebolla, a tolerable

establishment, consisting of a house of two stories, a small chapel,

and a sugar-engine, in an unfinished state, situated in the bottom of

a valley. The owner, Captain Jose Antonio Barbosa, was a Portuguese

of the old school; he seemed much vexed that His Royal Highness had

permitted strangers to travel the country, and treated us with a

constrained civility, which shewed us that he thought we were come

about no good. His conversation ran continually against the operations

of Government in laying taxes upon rum and other commodities; and

though he tasted the sweets of office, being part-renter of the

lucrative ferry of Paraiba, which post he obtained through the

interest of a very worthy gentleman in Rio de Janeiro, yet he had

all the acerbity of a disappointed place-hunter. His self-interested

and narrow-minded views were but too plainly directed to one object,

monopoly; the mere mention of the Prince Regent’s liberality in

permitting strangers to reside in Brazil appeared to torture him,

and in short, so much of the snarler did he display while discussing

this topic, that no character could have more forcibly reminded us of

the dog in the manger. It is, however, but fair to add, that while

indulging in severe reflections on strangers, he did not forget the

duties of hospitality; before we went to rest, he invited us to partake

of a family supper, consisting of a boiled duck smothered in rice, and

a stewed pullet, to which sat down eight people, including ourselves.

Having thanked our host for his kindness, we retired to the apartments

allotted to us. My bed was so uneasy that I was obliged to sit up

during most of the night, having no alternative, for as the clay floor

was neither boarded nor paved, I could not venture to throw the bed

clothes upon it, and sleep there. Never did mortal hail day-break with

greater satisfaction; but my agreeable feelings were soon damped by one

of those little vexatious accidents which in some states of mind are

more hard to bear than real misfortunes. I had placed my thermometer in

a _wind-door_ or air-hole (for the aperture was not glazed); a stupid

fellow, in fastening the bridle of a mule to one of the bars, threw

down the instrument and broke it. Luckily I had another, therefore the

loss was not so grievous.

Our soldiers having, with their wonted alacrity, provided mules, we

set out at an early hour, and entered upon a much more level road than

that of the preceding day. We passed along several valleys, the surface

of which presented clay and decomposed granite, in some places more

ferruginous than in others. There are numerous sheds all the way for

the refreshment of travellers and their cattle. This day’s journey

being only sixteen miles, we soon completed it, arriving about noon

at the ferry of Paraibuna. This river, though as wide as the Thames at

Westminster, is unnavigable, by reason of the large rocks which impede

its course. The ferry-boat arriving, we went into it with all our

mules, and were conveyed with oars and setting poles to the other side,

where we found a Register for the examination of passengers, their

passports, and property. The place is guarded by a few old soldiers,

under the command of a lieutenant, who, though in ill health, shewed us

every attention. Our soldiers got us a dinner cooked at a _venda_[34],

kept by a young man originally from Oporto; we took tea and supped with

the commandant, who assigned to us an apartment in the Register. He was

very civil, and seemed highly pleased to see us, frequently exclaiming,

“Os Inglezes são grande gente,” (the English are a great nation). We

were gratified by this and other national compliments which he paid us,

and not less so by the respect which every one who came to visit us

testified for our country, as being in alliance with a Prince to whom

they were enthusiastically devoted.

The Register is a substantial edifice of wood, built on posts to

preserve it from the overflows of the river, which frequently inundate

the sandy flat on which it stands. It contains a few rooms, which serve

as barracks for the guards, and has a handsome gallery fronting the

ferry. The station is low, and in summer is said to be very hot and

unhealthy; a circumstance which, joined to the indolence and poverty of

the inhabitants, may sufficiently account for the general appearance of

debility observable among them. The little employment they have arises

chiefly from the passengers who frequent this great thoroughfare, and

from the numerous troops of mules which are continually arriving on

their way to, as well as from, the interior. The barges of the ferry

are as fine vessels as any I ever saw used for the purpose; and indeed

they ought to be, for a considerable toll is paid, not only for every

mule, or other beast of burden, but for every person crossing the

river. The annual amount collected yields, no doubt, a handsome profit

to the renters; but it might be considerably augmented if a regular

road were opened to Canta Gallo, which is only eighteen leagues distant.

Being informed that our next day’s journey would be an arduous one, on

account of the hilly district through which we should have to pass,

we retired to rest betimes, and were stirring at an early hour. We

mounted fresh mules, and proceeded along a good road through a rugged

and thinly peopled district; in the course of five leagues, we passed

over seven very high granite mountains, and eight smaller ones, and at

length reached the ferry of the Paraiba, a river considerably larger

than the Paraibuna. At the Register belonging to it, which is more

extensive and better guarded than the former, all goods are examined

and weighed, paying duty according to their weight, whatever be their

kind, quality, or value. This regulation bears very unequally upon

different articles; salt, for instance, pays nearly _cent. per cent._

iron and lead about the same; while woollens, cottons, and other light

goods do not, on an average, exceed eight or ten _per cent._

The commandant of the Register offered us every assistance, and was

kind enough to provide us a fresh mule for our baggage. The short time

we staid here did not allow much leisure for observation; and, indeed,

there was little of novelty to observe. The situation of the Register

is pleasant; the country around is well wooded and fertile, though

mountainous. The river is almost destitute of fish.

We proceeded about a league and a half farther, through thick woods,

and arrived at a place named Rosina de Negra, where we halted for the

night. Our next day’s journey presented the same varieties of hill

and ravine as those we had already passed. In one part of the road we

observed a kind of barracks, consisting of an _estalagem_ and some

_ranchos_ or huts, where an officer and about twenty horse-soldiers

are stationed; they patrole the road, and are authorised to stop

travellers, and make the strictest search of those whom they suspect

of having gold-dust or diamonds concealed. Proceeding two leagues, we

arrived at the Register of Mathias Barboza, situated in the midst of an

almost impervious wood. It was built about sixty or seventy years ago,

by the gentleman whose name it bears, and who was an ancestor of the

noble family of Sousa.

This Register is a large oblong building, with two great doors at each

end, through which all travellers, with their mules, are required to

pass. On entering, they stop, and deliver their passports to a soldier

for examination by the commander, who, if he judges that a correct

account is given of the property, suffers them to proceed: but if

any grounds of suspicion occur, the mules are unloaded, and all the

contents of their cargoes are examined with the strictest scrutiny. In

these examinations it not unfrequently happens that a negro has been

suspected of swallowing a diamond; in which case, he is shut up in a

bare room until such time as the truth can be proved. The command of

this station is entrusted to a major. The inner part of the building

consists of apartments for the officers, _ranchos_ for the soldiers,

cells for the confinement of suspected persons, and stabling for the

mules. In the yard there are numerous posts, to which the cattle are

tied while loading or unloading. There is also a _venda_ for the

accommodation of travellers.

Leaving this place, we proceeded through an extensive tract of wood,

in which we occasionally observed a few deer, but no birds, except now

and then a green parrot or a wood-pecker. The road, as far as the eye

could reach, was bounded on each hand by close continuous thickets, and

rarely enlivened by traces of habitation. Those persons who live by the

way-side are commonly of the lowest order, who settle there with the

view of selling refreshments to travellers, and corn for the mules;

they are in general an idle, gossipping race: the more respectable

classes reside at a distance from the public road.

We arrived about four in the evening at a farm-house called Madeiras,

belonging to Captain José Pinto de Sousa. The situation is cold and

salubrious, the vicinity well-watered, and abounding in fine tracts of

arable and pasture land, but deplorably neglected. The owner seemed to

prefer ease, with inconvenience, to labor, with comfort; and, satisfied

with the spontaneous bounty of nature, cared little about improving it

by industry. The house itself was miserably out of repair: its walls,

which consisted of lattice-work plastered with clay, were full of holes

and crevices, and its roof was in a very crazy and shattered condition.

We fared but poorly, and passed a very indifferent night; often

reflecting on the apathy and listless indolence of the people: who,

thought we, in a cold climate would live in a dwelling full of cracks

and air-holes, when a few dashes of mud might render it comparatively

comfortable!

From this place, which is an hundred miles from Porto da Estrella,

we continued our route next day over a chain of mountains, among

which we encountered other falls of the Paraiba nearer its source,

and, traversing a tract of close woodland, arrived at a station

called the Fazenda do Juiz de Fora. Here we procured fresh mules, and

proceeded for a considerable distance on the ascent, when we met with

two planters from Minas Novas, who were going to Rio de Janeiro with

forty-six mules loaded with cotton, packed in raw hides, each beast

carrying two packages. They had been nearly three months on the road.

We availed ourselves of their kind offers to carry intelligence to our

friends in the capital, and gave them letters for that purpose.

The remainder of our day’s journey afforded few incidents worth

notice. We observed several pines of a singular species, which yielded

abundance of resin. In one part of the road I shot a most beautiful

bird, the name of which I could not learn, but was informed that it

flew about much in the night. In another part, we noticed a beast of

prey, which was crossing the road before us, and fled at our approach.

I killed a small water-snake with two fins near its vent.

We arrived towards evening at the _fazenda_ of Antonio Ferreira,

formerly a good house, but now almost in ruins. The owner was not

at home; but his old negro-servants provided as handsomely for us as

we could have expected them to do if he had been present. We made a

tolerable supper of stewed fowls, with the addition of a fine wild

turkey, which I had killed in the vicinity. I may here observe, that a

traveller in this country should neglect no opportunity of providing

for himself with his gun, as he is never certain of palatable fare at

the places where he alights.

The surface of the country is in general good strong clay; all the

rocks are of gneiss and granite, in the composition of which hornblende

predominates. We this day passed the site of the first gold-washing,

which is very small, and has been many years abandoned. The rivulets

have a great deal of oxide of iron in small grains mixed with the

sand in their eddies. In some places the granite is in a decomposing

state, and there are large nodules of what the Germans call grünstein,

which appear not unlike basalt. The air in these elevated districts is

fresh and cool, except from two to four o’clock in the afternoon, when

I found it rather hot. In the evening, while amusing ourselves with

shooting, we observed a man in a friar’s habit, with a box bearing a

picture of the Virgin, fastened to his waist by a belt. His face was

overgrown with hair, and his whole appearance exceedingly wild and

uncouth. On inquiry, we were informed that this extraordinary figure

was a hermit; and that he had embraced this austere life by way of

doing penance for some great crime.

Having pursued our diversion while day-light lasted, we returned to

the house, where, for the first time since our departure from Rio, we

partook of a comfortable meal, and regaled ourselves with a bottle

of excellent Madeira, which my worthy companion by good fortune had

brought with him.

We set out next day by sun-rise, and proceeded some miles along a

tolerable road. The vallies as we advanced were wider, and more easy

of cultivation, but the mountains were excessively steep. On even

ground our general pace was three or four miles an hour, but on the

acclivities we proceeded slowly, and were obliged to observe every step

of our mules, and to balance ourselves accordingly. This action of the

body produces no perceptible consequences for the first few days, but

afterwards it begins to torture the loins with a species of lumbago.

After a journey of twenty-eight miles, which occupied nine hours, we

found ourselves at six in the evening at a small farm-house called

Fazenda de Dôna Clara e Dôna Maria. These two good ladies honored us

with a more polite reception than we had hitherto experienced on the

journey. It being the festival of St. Bartholomew, a great holiday

among the Brazilians, they had prepared a more sumptuous dinner

than usual, of which they kindly invited us to partake. We were

the more sensible of this act of hospitality, because it evidently

proceeded from sincere good-will; and, like the widow’s mite, derived

additional merit from the smallness of the store which supplied the

means of performing it. Their establishment seemed barely provided

with necessaries; and the house in which they lived was ill built and

scantily furnished. We could not but smile at the earnestness with

which one of these worthy ladies complained of the hardness of the

times; they paid, she observed, a moidore every three years in taxes.

How happy, thought we, would our English spinsters of slender incomes

deem themselves in being so lightly assessed!

We passed the evening tolerably, having provided ourselves with

candles, which we found very necessary both here and in other places

on the road; for the rooms in general are lighted only by a glimmering

lamp, which rather augments than diminishes their melancholy gloom.

In the morning we were informed that the mules which had been provided

for us over-night were taken away from the stable. This so enraged

our soldier, that he immediately rode in quest of them, brought them

back, and pressed others for our service. We here saw the convenience

of travelling under official orders: had we not been so provided, we

might have been exposed to a most vexatious delay. These military

requisitions of cattle may be considered by the owner as a grievance;

but he generally indemnifies himself by high charges to other

travellers, and by impositions in the way of trade.

Being now within the province of Minas Geraes, (a country famed at

Rio de Janeiro for its excellent cheese), I expected to see some

improvement in the condition of the country,—some establishment

worthy of being called a farm,—some dwelling, constructed not merely

for shelter but for comfort. I hoped to remark among the inhabitants

that air of health and animation which springs from the invigorating

occupations and cheering pursuits of husbandry; but no such pleasing

change was perceptible: the same want of exertion prevailed here as

in other parts of the country; the people seemed to act as if the

tenure by which they held their lands was about to be abolished; all

around them had the appearance of make-shift; their old houses, fast

hastening to decay, bore no marks of repair about them; wherever a bit

of garden-ground was inclosed, it appeared overrun with weeds; where

coffee-trees, planted in former years, still existed, the present

occupiers were too indolent to gather the fruit; no inclosures were

made for pasturage; a few goats supplied the little milk that was

consumed; and cows’-milk was rarely to be procured. On observing these

deplorable consequences of the apathy of the inhabitants, I could not

but reflect on the advantages which might accrue from the introduction

of the English system of agriculture among them. The example of a

single farm, conducted on that system, might go far towards rousing

the people from their slothful state; and, when they once felt their

faculties awakened, they would be ashamed to lounge about as they now

do, under an old great coat, for days together, burthens to themselves,

and objects of contempt to all strangers who see them.

The next place we visited, after quitting the residence of these old

ladies, offered every requisite for making the experiment above alluded

to. It was a _fazenda_ called Mantiqueira, situated in the largest

plain we had hitherto traversed, consisting of rich land watered by

numerous streams. The establishment was in a fit state to begin with:

the house was falling to ruin, and the grounds about it were overrun

with weeds and brushwood. What more desirable situation, exclaimed

I to my companion, could an English farmer select! Here cattle of

every description are cheap; cows and oxen at two years old may be

purchased at 30s. or 40s. per head; excellent horses from 60s. to

£8. each; and pigs, poultry, and other live-stock, at a price too

trifling to mention. Here is land which, under the influence of this

genial climate, is capable of yielding two hundred-fold; here is wood

in abundance for every purpose; excellent clay for making bricks; and

water at command. Yet all these advantages are lost to the present

occupiers, who consider them too cheap to be valuable; and, perpetually

hankering after the precious minerals, seem to think that the only

standard for estimating the gifts of nature, is the difficulty of

obtaining them.

Having passed the hamlet of St. Sebastian, we arrived late in the

evening at Borda do Campo, a village consisting of about twenty houses,

the best of which is that of Captain Rodrigo de Lima, who, on learning

our situation, kindly took us in for the night. While supper was

preparing, we had some conversation with him respecting the agriculture

and produce of the neighbourhood, in the course of which he paid much

attention to our observations, and promised next day to shew us the

system he pursued. At the repast, which was speedily announced, he

introduced us to his wife and daughter, and a lady who was then on a

visit to them. This was an unexpected act of politeness, and one which

had never yet been exercised towards us by any master of a family in

the whole course of our journey. The few females we occasionally saw

at any former place generally secluded themselves on our arrival and

during our stay; and, when they came near us by chance, they commonly

ran away in as much apparent alarm as if they had been accustomed to

be frightened at the name of an Englishman. The ladies appeared in

very neat dresses of English manufacture, with a profusion of gold

chains about their necks, which are always worn on receiving or paying

visits. Their conversation was gay and enlivening; they were very

inquisitive respecting the costume of English women, and seemed quite

astonished at hearing that they wore caps, it being never the custom

among the Brazilian females to cover their heads until advanced in

years. They ornament their hair with combs, frequently of gold, and

very richly wrought. Wine was introduced, of which the ladies could

not be prevailed on to partake: they gave our healths by putting the

glass to their lips. After supper, the table was covered with delicious

sweetmeats; when, being desirous of paying the lady of the house a

compliment, I spoke highly of their excellence, and presumed that the

fruits were preserved under her immediate direction; but she assured

me to the contrary, and observed that her negress did all that sort of

domestic work. I perceived, or imagined, that she was rather offended

at my remark, and therefore apologized by saying, that it was not

uncommon for the ladies in England to interest themselves personally in

the concerns of housewifery. The remainder of the evening passed off

very agreeably.

On looking out of my chamber-window the following morning, I was

surprised to see two small and very neat inclosures, in one of which

flax was growing, and in the other wheat. The latter, which apparently

had been sown about seven weeks, was very poor and unpromising: the

ground had too much water, and seemed of late to have been flooded. Our

host regaled us with a breakfast of stewed fowl, excellent coffee and

milk, and a dish of _feijones_, with mandioca and buttered toast; after

which he conducted us to his inclosures.

The flax was very healthful and strong: he told us he cut[35] it three

or four times a year, and that it was dressed, spun, and woven in his

own house. He grew but little, having occasion for no more than what

answered his domestic purposes. The wheat, he told us, was blighted. He

shewed us a sample of last year’s growth, which was very poor, coarse,

and foul. The mills are of similar construction to those used at Canta

Gallo, but I did not observe a pair of stones fit for the grinding of

wheat.

I now expressed a wish to see his dairy, which the good gentleman

immediately complied with. Instead of an apartment, such as I expected

to find, fitted up and kept in order for that sole purpose, I was shewn

into a kind of dirty store-room, the smell of which was intolerable.

The present, I was told, was not the time for making cheese, as

the cows gave milk only in the rainy season. I begged to see the

implements used in the process; and, on examining them, found, to my

utter astonishment, that neither the vats nor cloths had been washed

since they were last used; and the milk-pails, &c. were in the same

condition. This sufficiently accounted for the offensive smell which I

had perceived on entering the place. When I asked to see the utensil

used for making butter, an apology was made, by stating that it was

not in the way: they had observed my disgust at the other vessels, and

probably thought that this was equally unfit to be inspected. I did all

in my power to inform our worthy host of the manner in which English

dairies were conducted, and gave him several directions, which he wrote

down, but seemed quite indifferent about adopting them. On enquiry, I

found that no provision was made for the cows; there were no houses

erected for milking, and that operation was frequently neglected, and

at all times badly performed.

The premises bore traces of the industry and taste of the former

occupants: there was a mud-wall round them, encompassing about an acre

of ground, which, when perfect, must have given the whole a retired and

comfortable appearance; but it was now partly broken down in ruins.

The steps leading to the front door of the dwelling were of the lapis

ollaris, or pot-stone, of which substance there is a stratum in the

vicinity.

Our cattle being ready, we mounted about eleven in the forenoon,

returning thanks to our host, and offering to pay for the accommodation

we had met with; but the only compensation he required, was a promise,

on our part, to pass a day or two with him on our return. The ladies,

who had not appeared at breakfast, came out upon the gallery, and very

pleasingly and politely wished us a good journey.

Resuming our route, we passed several small farms, and observed

that the blight had destroyed all their bananas, and withered their

coffee-trees. My thermometer at the time was not lower than 52°, but

the damage had been done some days before by a sharp southerly wind.

In some parts of the road there were very small inclosures of flax

and rye. The country now appeared more open, and the wood-scenery

lay at a greater distance. We rode by the side of a barren mountain,

which was covered to an extent of three miles with quartz, and

produced little or no herbage, except a species of wiry or windle

grass, which was much parched by the sun. We descended a declivity

tremendously steep, and full a mile in length, at the bottom of which

we crossed the Rio das Mortes, here a small rivulet. On its further

bank is an _estalagem_, or inn, called Registro Velho, (Old Register)

having been originally built as a searching-office, to prevent the

smuggling of gold. Proceeding hence, the eye is again relieved from

confined wood-scenery by the prospect of a grand amphitheatre of

mountains, which are bounded by others of amazing magnitude, covered

with forests. On the side of one hill, which we skirted obliquely, I

observed several crystallized masses, which, on examination, proved

to be clusters of cubes of ferruginous quartz of a dark-brown color.

We shortly afterwards arrived at a village called Barbacena, situated

on a commanding eminence, in a most fertile country, and apparently

containing about two hundred dwelling-houses. While we stopped to take

some refreshment, numbers of the inhabitants came to look at us, having

never before seen Englishmen, and being on the rack of curiosity to

know the objects of our journey. At this place two great roads from the

mining country unite, and form the main road to Rio de Janeiro. That

to the westward leads from S. João d’El Rey, Sabará, and Cuiabá; the

other from Villa Rica, Mariana, Villa do Principe, Tejuco, Minas Novas,

&c. Being a sort of half-way station to the capital, and the last open

place on the road, it is much frequented by people from different parts

of the interior, and has a considerable traffic in various articles,

particularly baizes, cotton goods, salt, and iron. Many of the shops

were well stocked with English manufactures. The place is governed by

an _Ouvidor_, or justice of the peace, and a military officer. In its

neighbourhood there is a quarry of soft, whitish granite, from which

mill-stones are made; but, from the specimens I saw of it, the material

must be very unfit for such a purpose.

We arrived, about four in the evening, at a poor place called

Resequinha, the owner of which made every provision for us which his

scanty means afforded. He dispatched a negro to gather grass for

the mules, which is here incredibly scarce; and killed us a fowl

or two for dinner. The time previous to that meal hung heavy on our

hands; there were no birds to afford us an hour’s shooting, and we

had no source of diversion, except that which the lively fancy and

inexhaustible humor of my companion afforded. We dined heartily about

seven o’clock on stewed fowls and mandioca, which fully supplied the

want of bread. That article is so extremely scarce in these parts,

that even the populous village of Barbacena, though situated in the

richest corn-district of the province, could furnish us only one rusk.

Being overcome with weariness, we prepared for rest. One of our beds

was placed on the table, the other on a dried hide stretched upon the

clay floor. These were miserable accommodations; but sleep knows little

distinction between the hovel and the palace, and a man thoroughly

disposed may enjoy it as soundly in one as in the other. So it was

with my companion; he was in a profound slumber within five minutes

after he had lain down, in despite of the rough materials of which his

pallet was composed. Mine prevented me from sleeping, and compelled me

to sit up during most of the night; it consisted, as well as his, of

the leaves of Indian corn crammed into a bag, with the mouth tied up;

but the careless negro who performed that operation had neglected to

pick out the core or pith from which the grain is rubbed, so that there

was no finding an easy posture upon it. I sat musing on the absolute

wretchedness of every thing around; a miserable lamp hung over our

heads and threw a dismal glimmer about the apartment; the floor was

uneven and broken into holes; the table, on which we had dined,

consisted of one large plank of a quality not discoverable without the

assistance of a scraper, as it had never been cleaned since it was

made; there was not a chair or any thing resembling a seat, except an

antique bench with a back to it, fixed at a distance on one side of the

table, so that some of the guests had to take their repast standing.

The very beasts in the out-houses were better provided for than the

master, if we might judge from the healthy condition of those we saw,

whose slothful apathy could be matched only with that of the swine they

fed.

We left Resequinha an hour after day-break, and entered on some clayey

ground which caused our mules to come down frequently, as they were

unshod. The day being Sunday we found some difficulty in procuring

fresh mules, as they were all engaged in taking their masters to mass.

After proceeding about a league and a half we arrived at the _fazenda_

do Gama, consisting of a good mansion and some out-buildings. The

house, which is the residence of a major, stands on an eminence in

a fine open country, beautifully interspersed with clumps of trees

and small patches of wood, but wholly uncultivated and destitute of

inclosures. The land appeared much burnt up, and ill supplied with

water, but the vallies, we were told, abounded in numerous streams

and rivulets. Having stopped at the door, we were saluted by the voice

of a fine motherly-looking lady, apparently about forty, who invited

us to alight, and we readily obeyed, having occasion to change our

baggage-mule. Two young ladies, the daughters of the one whom we had

first seen, came on the gallery to welcome us. As the morning was

cool, they were covered with purple mantles of baize, which left only

a part of the face exposed, but shewed us sufficient to prove that the

females of this province, here called _mineras_, are above mediocrity

in personal charms. This opinion was confirmed on entering the house,

where these ladies appeared to much greater advantage; they were in

the bloom of health, rather tall in stature, and in their air and

gestures extremely graceful. We had just entered into conversation

when in came our soldier to announce that the baggage-mule was loaded,

and that the day was so far spent as barely to allow time enough to

reach the next station before night. This honest fellow for the first

time on our journey was the bearer of unwelcome news. I asked him why

he did not bring us to this mansion last night, instead of halting

at the miserable dog-hole of Resequinha. “Ah, Sir,” replied he, “the

mules could travel no further.” “Then you might have told us of this

delightful place, and we would have walked hither had it been double

the distance.” How much more merrily we should have passed the

evening, thought I, on observing two fine guitars hung up in a closet

that was accidentally opened. The mother, who now came in, gave us an

invitation to stop, regretting that her husband, being confined by

illness to his bed, was unable to pay his respects to us in person. We

expressed our disappointment at not being able to avail ourselves of

this invitation, and again related how ill we had passed the night at

Resequinha. “Yes,” observed one of the daughters very facetiously, “men

alone make very insipid society; you would have been much better here,

would not you?” Our soldier again came to say that the baggage-mule

was out of sight, and that we should be in danger of losing our way.

The mule, said I, may surely for once fall lame to accommodate us, or

some lucky misfortune may occur to give us a pretext for prolonging our

stay. We were at length obliged to yield to the pressing remonstrances

of our soldier, and took leave of the good lady and her amiable

daughters, promising to visit them on our return. We pursued our

journey with reluctance, over a dreary tract of country, passing at

intervals through small woods, where we shot a few wood-peckers, here

called _carpinteros_, a name sufficiently characteristic of their

peculiar habits. The incessant hacking which they make with their beaks

may be heard at a considerable distance. No incident worth mentioning

occurred in this day’s journey, which terminated at Bandeira de

Coelho, where we arrived at sun-set. A more dirty and slovenly place,

in a finer situation, we never visited. It was with great difficulty

that my negro-boy procured us a pot of any sort to dress us a fowl and

some beans for supper. The kitchen was a mere dirt-hole, blackened with

soot and smoke above and all around, and covered with mud and filth

below: the cooking utensil was a pot placed on three stones and heated

by a fire of green wood. The owner was very assiduous in helping us,

and heartily desired us to make free. He was reputed to be a man of

considerable property, which he had accumulated by selling corn for the

troops of mules which frequently stop here, and are generally better

accommodated than his biped guests. We procured something in the form

of a supper, and passed the night under the same sort of shed as that

which sheltered our cattle, and on bedding very little superior in

quality to theirs.

The experience of this night completed the catalogue of inconveniences

to which we had been exposed since the commencement of our journey. I

would advise every traveller who pursues the same route, to provide

himself with a hammock and blankets, a stock of tea, sugar, candles,

liquors, soap, and salt, two kettles, and a drinking-horn, (for in

few places will he meet with any of these articles), as well as an

umbrella, which can by no means be dispensed with. This equipage,

(together with proper instruments), is necessary for a person who

travels to make observations on the country, and will require two

baggage-mules to carry it.

We set out next morning at six, without breakfast, not being able to

procure either coffee or milk; and proceeding six miles, through a fine

open country, arrived at a large village called Louza, containing full

two thousand inhabitants. It is well built, but as I was informed, has

much declined from its former consequence, which it owed principally

to the rich mines in its vicinity, now almost exhausted. We procured

a tolerable breakfast of coffee and eggs at a _vend_; and, while we

partook of it, were much amused by the numbers of inhabitants, who

crowded the door in eager curiosity to see us, asking a variety of

questions of a political nature, and forming endless conjectures

respecting the object of our journey.

Leaving this village about eleven o’clock, we proceeded along a range

of mountains composed of argillaceous schistus, and passed a hill

covered with micaceous iron ore: in one part of it there was a break

that showed marks of stratification, which appeared vertical, or it

was probably a strong vein of ferruginous matter, which traversed the

mountain. I was not a little surprised to find that the road, for above

half a mile, was covered with rich oxide of iron.

We passed a place called Alto de Virginia, where, as well as in the

vicinity, to a considerable extent, there are gold-washings, which

bear the general name of Lavras de Virginia. I examined the heaps of

debris, but found in them nothing but rounded quartz and ferruginous

matter. Journeying half a league further, we came to the gold-washings

of S. Antonio do Ouro Branco, where hillocks of the same materials

abounded; and we soon afterwards entered the poor and almost deserted

village of the same name, containing about five hundred souls. We had

an interview with the commandant, but could obtain nothing in the way

of refreshment; indeed the few people we saw were so needy, that far

from being able to supply our wants, they seemed to crave all we had to

satisfy their own, and eyed us as if they expected we had brought them

something. Glad to get away from this wretched place, we continued our

journey through a succession of fine vallies, and arrived about four

o’clock at the foot of a tremendous mountain, overhung with clouds.

The ascent was so steep that, judging it in vain to attempt to ride, I

dismounted; our soldier, who was a lighter man than myself, exchanged

mules with me, and up we went in a zig-zag direction for half an hour,

when we found ourselves immersed in a thick cloud, which for some time

hindered us from seeing our way. We were at length able to proceed, and

in many parts had to mount up ledges nearly two feet perpendicular,

which we performed without alighting, as our saddles were secured from

slipping off behind by a strong strap passing round the mule’s neck.

It is considered very unsafe to dismount in these ascents, for the

animals go much less steady when led than when ridden. At seven o’clock

we reached the summit, where, though night was setting in, we found it

necessary to rest half an hour, and then proceeded a league in the dark

without our baggage-mule, which, being unable to keep pace with us, had

been left in charge of two men and the negro-boy. We were under little

apprehension for the safety of our property, though, as we afterwards

learnt, the poor animal was down above twenty times in the course of

the ascent. About eight o’clock we reached Alto do Morro, our baggage

arriving about an hour after. Here we halted for the night in one of

the best inns we had hitherto seen, the hostess of which soon provided

us with a comfortable supper, of which we partook very heartily, and

passed an agreeable evening. The good order and propriety which reigned

in this inn confirmed an observation we had often made, that of all

houses on the road those under the direction of females were managed

with most ability, and certainly afforded the best accommodations. I

may add, that there prevailed in them that evident disposition and wish

to oblige which generally makes up for any deficiency, and by appealing

to a stranger’s liberality makes him satisfied with whatever is set

before him.

The land, through which we this day passed, appeared much burnt up,

being in general very bare of vegetable soil, and having few trees to

defend it against the heat of the sun. In the mountains we observed

several slips or breaks, which presented abrupt and singular masses

lying in all directions like confused heaps of architectural ruins,

disclosing veins of soft talc, and some _cascalho_, poor in gold. The

stratum was argillaceous schistus, very ferruginous, and friable.

At the bottom of these slips, which appeared to be caused by the

disrupture of one part of the mountain from the other (probably through

the infiltration of water), there were small streams, which in rainy

weather swell into torrents, and burst through their channels with

great velocity.

The next day, it being our intention to reach Villa Rica before

night, we set out at an early hour, notwithstanding the cold cloudy

weather and the heavy dew which prevailed. We passed through a bare

and uneven tract of country, presenting similar characteristics to

those above described. Near a place called Capão, I rode down a hill

covered with rich iron ore in such profusion, that tons might have

been gathered from the surface. Proceeding a short distance farther,

we arrived at a house, the owner of which, we afterwards understood,

possessed a topaz-mine in the neighbourhood. The mention of a _mine_

of topazes excited my curiosity, as it gave me the idea of a vein

worked under-ground, and containing those substances in the matrix as

originally formed. On expressing to the owner my desire to see the

works, he kindly undertook to accompany me to the spot. After walking

about half a mile up the mountain just mentioned, I was shown two

breaks or slips, in which my guide informed me were the topaz-mines. We

entered one of them, which was in extent little short of two acres; the

argillaceous schistus, which formed the upper stratum, appeared in a

variety of stages, the greater part migrating into micaceous schistus.

In one part I observed two negroes poking in the little soft veins,

which the slips disclosed, with a piece of rusty iron, probably part

of an old hoop; and on enquiring what they were about, I was informed

they were the _miners_, searching for topazes. I took one of their

instruments, and on using it as they did, found these veins to contain

a very minute micaceous substance approaching to earthy talc, also some

quartz, and large crystals of specular iron ore. I had the good fortune

to find two or three topazes, which, as they had only one pyramid each,

and appeared fractured, I judged to be out of their original place. It

had hitherto been my opinion, that all the topazes which I had seen

at Rio de Janeiro, or elsewhere, and which were of similar form to

these, had been broken from the matrix by the miners; I now, therefore,

fully expected to meet with some having double pyramids, but, to my

great disappointment, all that I found were entirely detached. From

a great quantity (at least a cart-load) of inferior topazes, which

were afterwards shown to me in the owner’s house, (and any number of

which I might have taken away), I could not select one with a double

pyramid. They informed me that sometimes, but very rarely, topazes had

been found attached to quartz, but even in these instances the quartz

was fractured and out of its original place[36]. The topazes which were

shewn me, were very imperfect, and full of flaws. The negroes employed

in these works were superintended by two Creolians, who received what

they found.

After I had collected a variety of specimens, we returned to our mules,

continued our journey over bleak and sterile mountains, through roads

covered with dust, and arrived about three o’clock in sight of Villa

Rica. Though the town stands on an eminence rather steep and lofty, the

approach to it is not noble or striking, neither is there any thing in

a near view of it, which, to the eye of a traveller, corresponds with

the grandeur of its name. The environs, unlike those of opulent towns

in general, exhibited few signs of cultivation; not an acre of good

pasture was any where to be seen, nor an inclosure of any kind. We

arrived a little after four, and alighted at one of the first houses

to the left, on entering the town; it had been recommended to us as

one of the best inns, but we found, that, in point of cleanliness and

accommodation, report greatly overrated it. The owner, being a priest,

entrusted the entire management to a mulatto, who acted as if he was

seldom under the eye of his master. Having ordered dinner, we walked

into the town for about a mile; the streets were very irregular, and

so badly paved as to give us no favorable idea of the opulence of the

inhabitants. As night was coming on, and we felt fatigued, we postponed

delivering our letters until next day, and returned to our inn. Our

dinner, which was served up in as slovenly a manner as we had ever

witnessed, even in the poorest _rancho_ on the road, consisted of some

stewed beef and a fowl. The bread was tolerable, but dear. Being little

inclined to sit up after our repast, we retired early to rest; our

rooms, though destitute of almost every appropriate convenience, were

better than those to which we had of late been accustomed.

Notwithstanding the fatigue of the journey, which heartily disposed me

to sleep, my mind was for some time occupied in reflecting on the place

at which we had now arrived, and which had long been the theme of our

wonder and conjecture. Villa Rica—the rich village! The capital of

the province of Minas Geraes, and the seat of its government; a place

which had for many years been reputed the richest in Brazil, as to it

was brought all the gold found in the vast district around. Impatient

to see some vestiges of that splendor which its name implies, I slept

but little, and rose at an early hour. We, with difficulty, obtained

our breakfast, consisting of coffee and eggs, with bread and English

butter, after which we dressed and went to deliver our letters.

Our arrival being announced, we were directed to present ourselves at

the audience-chambers, which form part of a large edifice, containing

also the post-office and other public rooms for the transaction of

Government business. We were introduced to the General of the Forces,

and to Dr. Lucas Antonio Monteiro de Barras, Judge of the Supreme

Court; the latter held the principal authority in the absence of the

Viceroy, who was gone to Rio de Janeiro, another from Goyazes being

expected shortly to succeed him. We were honored with a most handsome

reception, and various houses were put in our choice, with a kind

invitation to make use of any of them during our stay, but we preferred

taking lodgings in the centre of the town, within three minutes’ walk

of the Palace, in Rua Dereita, the very Bond Street of Villa Rica.

After our interview with the Judge, we devoted some hours to a

perambulation of the town, and returned much fatigued to dine at our

inn. In the evening I paid a visit to the vicar, who gave me a hearty

welcome, and in the usual style of Portuguese compliment, told me his

house was mine. The saying, had it been verified, would have put me

in possession of one of the best mansions in Villa Rica. At tea the

worthy pastor introduced me to several officers, among whom was the

late governor of the Diamond district, who gave me much information

concerning it, and shewed me an aqua-marina, which had been found in

one of the washings. It was a perfect hexagonal prism, full seven

inches in length, and three quarters of an inch in diameter, clear

and free from flaws. After some hours of very agreeable conversation,

the party broke up, and it being dark, I was conducted to my inn by

a servant of the vicar’s, with his lantern. At the corners of the

streets, along which we passed, there were groups of the lower order

of people offering their prayers; in a niche above them was a figure

of the Virgin, with tapers burning before it. A voice in a low solemn

tone uttered the vespers, the responses were made by the multitude. I

took off my hat as I passed, knowing that such a token of reverence is

always expected.

The next day was occupied chiefly in removing our equipage to our new

lodgings in Rua Dereita; to this service our soldiers were particularly

attentive, and left us nothing to do which they could do for us. On

the day following we were honored with visits from the judge, the

general, the vicar, and many of the principal inhabitants, all of whom

testified their respect for us in the most polite manner. Many of

them afterwards sent me presents of fine sugar, coffee, sweetmeats,

cheese, and some good bread. One gentleman, to give me a proof of the

richness of the soil and salubrity of the climate, sent me a cabbage,

full fourteen inches in diameter, when stripped of its outside leaves;

a finer vegetable never was produced.

When our leisure permitted, we took excursions to view the town and

its vicinity, sometimes on horseback and sometimes on foot, generally

going and returning in a different direction. It is situated on the

side of a large mountain, connected with others forming an immense

chain, of which it is one of the highest. Most of the streets range,

in steps, as it were, from the base to the summit, and are crossed by

others which lead up the acclivity. It is most admirably supplied with

water, which is conducted into almost every house in a most convenient

and pleasant manner. In the streets are many fountains, which, though

not to be compared with those of Italy in architectural taste, are well

constructed. One cistern in particular contained water which tasted

strongly of sulphate of iron; the natives consider it serviceable in

the cure of cutaneous diseases, and frequently bathe in it. The town is

divided into two parishes, and contains a population of about twenty

thousand inhabitants, of whom there are more whites than blacks. The

climate is delightful, and perhaps equal to that of Naples. Though the

latitude of the place is only 20° south, yet owing to its elevated

site, the temperature of the air is generally moderate. The thermometer

never exceeds 82° in the shade and rarely below 48°, but its usual

range is from 64° to 80° in summer, and from 48° to 70° in winter. The

greatest heats prevail in January. Owing to its great elevation various

changes from heat to cold prevail in the same day, and there are

frequent showers of rain. Thunder-storms are common, but by no means

violent. The sun is sometimes clouded by dews and mist so dense as not

to subside until the forenoon is far advanced.

The gardens here are laid out with great taste, and from the

peculiarity of their construction present a curious spectacle. As there

is scarcely a piece of level ground, even ten yards square, on the

whole side of the mountain, the defect has been remedied by cutting

spaces one above another at regular distances, and supporting them by

low walls, the top of one being on a level with the base of that next

above it. An easy flight of steps leads from one level to the other.

These terraces seemed to me to be the very kingdom of Flora, for never

did I before see such a profusion of delicate flowers. Here were also

excellent vegetables of every kind, such as artichokes, asparagus,

spinach, cabbage, kidney-beans, and potatoes. There are many indigenous

fruits which might be much improved by a better system of horticulture.

The peach appears to be the only exotic fruit which has been hitherto

introduced; it florishes amazingly. I have frequently seen the

branches of the trees so loaded as to require perpendicular support.

The town is of considerable extent, but by no means so well peopled as

when the mines were rich. Few of the inhabitants have any employment

except the shopkeepers, who are indeed a numerous class. English

woollens were by no means dear, superfine cloth being at 30s. to 35s.

per yard; coatings, &c. nearly as cheap as in England; common cotton

prints at 1s. 6d. to 2s. per yard; hats, handkerchiefs, kerseymeres,

and Manchester piece goods in great plenty. There seemed, indeed, to

be a glut of English merchandise and produce of all sorts, except

earthenware, hams, porter, and butter, which were dear on account of

the risk of carriage. Common Figueira wine was 3s. 6d. the bottle. The

shops that sold the produce of the country were few in number and very

indifferent. There were a great many tailors, shoe-makers, tin-workers,

and venders of hardware, some smiths, and no inconsiderable number of

saddlers. In a country where every one is a horseman, this trade must,

one would imagine, take the lead of most others. The saddles that were

shewn me here, were of a much superior make to those which I saw in Rio

de Janeiro. I was surprised to find no workers in gold in a place so

renowned for the production of that precious metal, but I was informed

that the trade was prohibited by law, to prevent the gold from being

worked before it was permuted.

The market of Villa Rica was but ill supplied, notwithstanding the

fertility of the district around it. Pulse and vegetables for the table

were scarce, even grass was an article in great demand[37], and milk

was as dear as it is in London. Poultry sold at from 3s. 6d. to 4s.

6d. per couple. Beef of a tolerable kind, but by no means good, might

be had at 1-1/2d. per pound. Pork was very fine: mutton was utterly

unknown. Tallow was exceedingly dear, and candles were more than double

the price at which they sell in this country.

Though our arrival in the town excited some surprise, as we were the

first of our nation who had visited it, yet the people did not regard

us entirely as strangers, many of them having seen Englishmen in their

frequent intercourse with Rio de Janeiro. My worthy companion had

letters to some of the principal shopkeepers, which we took an early

opportunity of delivering. When we spoke to them of the richness of

the country, and of the quantity of gold with which it was reputed to

abound, they seemed glad of the opportunity of telling us, that they

believed the gold was all sent to England, adding that their capital

ought now to be termed Villa Pobre, instead of Villa Rica. Indeed we

were surprised to observe the comparative poverty which prevailed

among them. Of above two thousand habitations, which the town

contained, a considerable proportion was untenanted; and the rents of

the rest were continually lowering. Houses were to be purchased at one

half their real value; for instance, a house built a few years ago at

one thousand pounds cost, would not now sell for more than five hundred

pounds.

The mountain on which the town stands, appeared to me in length from

eight to nine miles, in every part narrow and almost insulated, being

surrounded by deep ravines. In riding over it in various directions,

I observed it to be composed of argillaceous schistus in almost every

gradation, migrating from the compact blue slate into micaceous

schistus. In some parts it lies in regular strata, in others it appears

in confused masses. The slate is sometimes, but not very generally,

used for paving, roofing, and other similar purposes. In some parts

I noticed a few slender, confused, and irregular quartzose veins of

little consequence, a large proportion of ferruginous accumulations

and stalactitic aggregates, together with pyrites, and a considerable

quantity of quartz pebbles of all sizes. That side on which the town

is built presents many small hills, which form a number of gulleys in

narrow ravines. Numerous streamlets flow down from the springs in the

mountain in various channels, and in rainy weather swell into cascades;

they form a rivulet at its base called Rio do Carmo, which in its

course from hence is joined by many others, and changes its name first

into that of Rio S. Jose, and then into Rio Doce. Of the latter I shall

have occasion in the sequel to speak more at large.

CHAP. XI.

_Origin and present State of Villa Rica.—Account of the Mint.—Visit

to the City of Mariana.—Excursion to the Fazendas of Barro and

Castro, belonging to His Excellency the Conde de Linhares._

THE history of an establishment, which, twenty years after its

foundation, was reputed the richest place on the globe, was an object

of considerable interest with me, and I made many enquiries respecting

it from some of the best informed men on the spot. It appears that

the first discovery of this once rich mountain was effected by the

enterprising spirit of the Paulistas, who, of all the colonists in

Brazil, retained the largest share of that ardent and indefatigable

zeal for discovery, which characterized the Lusitanians of former days.

They penetrated from their capital into these regions, braving every

hardship, and encountering every difficulty which a savage country,

infested by still more savage inhabitants, opposed to them. They cut

their way through impervious woods, carrying their provisions with

them, and occasionally cultivating small patches of land to afford

them food to retreat to, in case of necessity, as well as to keep up

a communication with their city S. Paulo. Every inch of ground was

disputed by the barbarous Indians, here called Buticudas, who were

constantly either attacking them openly or lying in ambush, and but

too frequently succeeded in surprising some of them, or their negroes,

whom they immediately sacrificed to their horrible appetite for human

flesh. They believed the negroes to be the great monkeys of the wood.

The bones of the unfortunate sufferers were frequently found exposed,

shocking testimonies of the barbarity of their murderers, whom the

Paulistas, roused to revenge, invariably shot, wherever they met them.

These examples of vengeance answered their desired end; the Indians,

terrified as well by the noise as by the fatal effect of fire-arms,

fled with precipitation, believing that the white men commanded

lightning and thunder.

It does not appear that in exploring this territory they received any

assistance whatever from the Aborigines: they followed the course of

rivers, occasionally finding gold, of which they skimmed the surface,

and continued to proceed until they arrived at the mountain which

is our present subject. Its riches arrested their course; they

immediately erected temporary houses and began their operations. The

principal men of the party that first settled here, were Antonio Dias,

Bartholomo Rocinho, Antonio Ferreira (_filho_) and Garcia Ruis. It

appears that they took the most direct way to the place, for the roads

they then opened are the same which are still used. The fame of their

success soon reached the city of S. Paulo; fresh adventurers arrived

in great numbers, bringing with them all the negroes they had means

to purchase. Other adventurers went from S. Paulo to Rio de Janeiro

to procure more negroes, their own city being drained; and thus the

news of the lately discovered gold mountain being made known in the

Brazilian capital, men of all descriptions went in crowds to this land

of promise by the way of S. Paulo, which was the only route then known.

The first settlers might have prevented the exposure of their good

fortune, had they been able to moderate their joy, and consented to act

in concert; but as gold was in such great abundance, every individual

appropriated a lot of ground, and thus became a capitalist. Each strove

which should make the most of his treasure in the shortest time, and

thus there was a continual demand for more negroes, more iron, &c. and,

in the general eagerness to obtain them, the secret, which all were

interested in keeping, was disclosed. The Paulistas independent in

spirit, and proud of their wealth, were desirous of giving laws to the

new-comers; but the latter determining to oppose this measure, formed

themselves into a party under the guidance of Manuel Nunes Vianna, an

adventurer of some consequence, who strenuously asserted their claim

to equal rights and advantages. Disputes arose on both sides, and were

at length aggravated into hostilities, which proved unfavorable to the

Paulistas, the greater part of whom fled to a considerable station of

their own, and there awaited reinforcements. Vianna and his followers,

without loss of time, went in pursuit of their foes, whom they found on

a plain near the site of St. João d’El Rey. The two parties met on the

border of a river, and a sanguinary battle took place, which ended in

the defeat of the Paulistas, who afterwards made the best terms they

could. The slain were buried on the margin of the river, which, from

that circumstance, took the name of Rio das Mortes.

The Paulistas, bent on revenge, but weakened by defeat, appealed to the

sovereign, King Pedro, denouncing Vianna and his followers as rebels,

who were attempting to take the district to themselves, and set up an

independent government. The King’s ministers apprised of the state of

affairs, and learning by report the immense riches of the country,

immediately sent a chief, with a competent body of troops, to take the

advantage of the strife between the two parties; which in a country

tenable by a few men, on account of its numerous strong-holds, was a

most fortunate circumstance. The name of this chief was Albuquerque;

a man of enterprise and perseverance, in all respects qualified for

the service on which he was sent. His appearance at first occasioned

much confusion and discontent among both parties; and though he was not

openly opposed, yet he was in continual alarm. The Paulistas now saw

that the riches which they in conjunction with their rivals might have

retained, were about to be seized by a third party, which would reduce

them both to subordination. Disturbances prevailed for some time, but

reinforcements continually arriving from Government, tranquillity was

at length perfectly established; and in the year 1711, a regular town

began to be formed; a government-house, a mint, and a depôt for arms

were built. A code of laws was enacted for the regulation of the mines;

all gold-dust found was ordered to be delivered to officers appointed

for that purpose; a fifth in weight was taken for the King, and the

remaining four parts were purified, melted into ingots at the expense

of Government, then assayed, marked according to their value, and

delivered to the owners, with a certificate to render them current. For

the greater convenience of trade, gold-dust was likewise permitted to

circulate for small payments. Notwithstanding these strict regulations,

a considerable quantity of the precious metal in its original state

found its way to Rio de Janeiro, Bahia, and other ports, clandestinely,

without paying the royal fifth, until Government, apprised of this

illicit traffic, established Registers in various parts for the

examination of all passengers, and stationed soldiers to patrole the

roads. By these means, gold in immense quantities was seized and

confiscated; the persons on whom any was found, forfeited all their

property, and, unless they had friends of great influence, were sent as

convicts to Africa for life. The greatest disgrace was attached to the

name of smuggler; and such was the rigor of the law against offenders

of this description, that every person quitting the district was

obliged to take a certificate stating whither he was going, and what he

carried with him. This regulation is still in force, and is rigorously

observed.

Villa Rica soon enjoyed a considerable trade with Rio de Janeiro; the

returns were negroes, iron, woollens, salt, provisions of various

kinds, and wine, all which at that time bore amazingly high profits.

About the year 1713, when Dr. Bras da Silva was appointed governor,

the quantity of gold produced was so considerable that the royal fifth

amounted to above half a million sterling annually. The mountain

became pierced like a honey-comb, as the miners worked every soft

part they could find, and penetrated as far as they could, conveying

the _cascalho_ which they dug out to a convenient place for washing.

In rainy weather the torrents of water running down the sides of

the mountain, carried away much earthy matter containing delicate

particles of gold, which settled in the ground near its base. When

the waters abated, this rich deposit gave employment to numbers of

the poorer sort of people, who took it away and washed it at their

convenience.

Antonio Dias, the person already mentioned as one of the leaders of

the Paulistas, who discovered the place, having become extremely

rich, built a fine church, and dying soon after, bequeathed to it

considerable funds. It bears his name. Five or six others were begun

and soon finished, as neither wood nor stone was wanting; and the

inhabitants were all ready to contribute a share of their property,

and to employ their negroes in furtherance of these pious works. A law

highly creditable to the wisdom of the Portuguese government was now

enacted, to prohibit friars from entering the territories of the mines.

What treasures were thus saved to the state, and what a number of

persons were thus continued in useful labor, who would else have become

burthensome to the community!

The town now underwent many improvements; its streets were more

regularly built, and some parts of the side of the mountain were

levelled, to afford more convenient room for the construction of

houses, and the laying out of gardens. Reservoirs were formed, from

which water was distributed by means of conduits to all parts, and

public fountains were erected in the most convenient and central

situations. The mint and smelting-houses were enlarged, and rendered

more commodious for the transaction of business. About this period the

inhabitants amounted to twelve thousand or upwards; those who possessed

mines, were either the first settlers or their descendants, and as

the best part of the district was occupied, the new adventurers who

continued to arrive from time to time, were obliged to enter into the

service of the existing owners until they had learned their methods

of working, after which they generally went in search of fresh mines,

proceeding along the water-courses and ravines, where they sometimes

discovered new sources of wealth. Between the years 1730 and 1750, the

mines were in the height of their prosperity; the King’s fifth, during

some years of that period, is said to have amounted to at least a

million sterling annually.

The mines which produced this immense wealth, at length became

gradually less abundant; and, as the precious metal disappeared,

numbers of the miners retired, some to the mother-country, loaded with

riches, which tempted fresh adventurers, and many to Rio de Janeiro and

other sea-ports, where they employed their large capitals in commerce.

Villa Rica, at the present day, scarcely retains a shadow of its former

splendor. Its inhabitants, with the exception of the shopkeepers,

are void of employment; they totally neglect the fine country around

them, which, by proper cultivation, would amply compensate for the

loss of the wealth which their ancestors drew from its bosom. Their

education, their habits, their hereditary prejudices, alike unfit

them for active life; perpetually indulging in visionary prospects

of sudden wealth, they fancy themselves exempted from that universal

law of nature which ordains that man shall live by the sweat of his

brow. In contemplating the fortunes accumulated by their predecessors,

they overlook the industry and perseverance which obtained them, and

entirely lose sight of the change of circumstances which renders those

qualities now doubly necessary. The successors of men who rise to

opulence from small beginnings, seldom follow the example set before

them, even when trained to it; how then should a Creolian, reared in

idleness and ignorance, feel any thing of the benefits of industry! His

negroes constitute his principal property, and them he manages so ill,

that the profits of their labor hardly defray the expenses of their

maintenance: in the regular course of nature they become old and unable

to work, yet he continues in the same listless and slothful way, or

sinks into a state of absolute inactivity, not knowing what to do from

morning to night. This deplorable degeneracy is almost the universal

characteristic of the descendants of the original settlers; every trade

is occupied either by mulattoes or negroes, both of which classes seem

superior in intellect to their masters, because they make a better use

of it.

During my stay here, I paid frequent visits to the mint, and was

liberally permitted by the officers to see every process performed

there. In the smelting-house were eight or ten small blast-furnaces, in

form much resembling blacksmiths’ hearths. The fuel used is charcoal.

When a quantity of gold-dust is brought, (no matter whether large or

small), say, for instance, six ounces, it is first permuted, and a

fifth taken for the Prince; the rest is put in a Hessian crucible,

about three inches in diameter, which is immediately placed in the

furnace. A quantity of corrosive sublimate is then put to it, which,

on being heated, exhales very strong fumes; the scoriæ, if any be

formed, are taken off with a pair of tongs, and more sublimate is added

if required. Ebullition sometimes occurs, in which case the crucible

is covered with a bit of common tile. As soon as the mercury is

evaporated, the gold is poured into an ingot-mould, previously rubbed

with animal fat; it is afterwards turned out into a tub of water. The

ingot generally, in some part or other, has mercury attached to it,

(which it seizes immediately), and the part of the gold thus affected

assumes the appearance of lead[38]. To remove this, they hold it in

a strong fire with a pair of tongs until the mercury is evaporated.

It is afterwards sent to the assay-master, who first compares it on

the touchstone with gold bars of different alloys, ascertained and

marked, and then assays it. The two methods being found to agree, the

assay-master stamps upon the ingot its degree of fineness, (called

_toque_), also its weight, its number, the name of the place, and the

year. It is then registered in a book kept for that purpose, and a copy

of the entry is made out on a slip of printed paper, in which the ingot

is wrapped, and delivered to the owner for circulation. The operation

of melting a given quantity seldom occupies more than ten minutes or a

quarter of an hour; that of cupelling about double the time: but I have

seen men deliver their gold-dust, and receive it in a circulating form

in less than an hour; so that little delay takes place, and, as there

are six furnaces, the bringers of gold have seldom to wait for their

turn. The pale color and low quality of various bars of gold are always

imputed to the silver, platina, or other metal contained in them. I

have seen some as low as sixteen carats, and others as fine as 23-1/2

carats, which is within half a carat of what is denominated pure gold.

Twenty-two is the standard, and gold exceeding that receives a premium

according to its fineness.

Considerable quantities of arsenical pyrites, said to be cobalt, were

brought to me: I examined some specimens with the blow-pipe, but found

no vestige of that metal, as the substance in no stage imparted a

blue color to borax or glass. Iron pyrites is found about three miles

from the town, where there is a very strong vein of it in quartz.

Antimony was brought to me from some distance, and also a few bits

of copper much oxidated, which were said to have been found in the

washings at a place called Caldeiroens, but this I had great reason

to doubt. Not a few impositions respecting the discovery of copper

were attempted upon me. One man brought a rounded piece of jasper,

about an ounce in weight, and with it half an ounce of copper, of the

form and about the size of a duck-shot, which he told me had been

produced by a smelting stone similar to the jasper then before me. I

with much difficulty persuaded him that the person who had performed

the operation for him had dropped a copper coin into the crucible.

I was astonished to find that many persons, even gentlemen of some

consequence, had a notion that almost every red-colored stone in the

pavement of the streets was copper. One fellow had circulated a report

that he possessed several pieces rich in that metal; but, on being

sent for, and questioned closely, he stated that he had lost them in

removing to another house. It is not surprising that tales of this kind

should gain easy credit among persons stimulated by avarice and blinded

by ignorance, and that the artful men who invent and propagate them,

should be tempted by success to repeat their impositions, and corrupt

others by their example. The rich iron ores with which the district

abounds, and of which I saw many specimens, might furnish employment

much more profitable than washing for gold, or following other idle and

chimerical speculations.

During the first few days of my residence here, my soldiers procured

me a quantity of the finest porcelain clay I have ever seen; that used

in the manufactory at Sèvres, near Paris, is inferior to it. This clay

is found at the foot of a mountain of argillaceous schistus, called S.

Antonio, near Congonhas do Campo, in a vein accompanied with quartz and

specular iron ore.

A week after my arrival here, I was invited to go to a pottery about

three miles distant. Crossing a bridge over the Rio do Carmo, at the

foot of the town of Villa Rica, we ascended another steep mountain, on

the summit of which I found iron ore in great quantities. Though not

very rich, I have no doubt it would produce 25 _per cent._ of metal.

The want of wood, which is here complained of as an objection to

working it, might be remedied by planting; for this summit is a fine

plain, which proper cultivation would render highly productive. At

present, though so near the town, it lies totally neglected, without

a single inclosure upon it. The pottery, at which we soon arrived,

has been but recently established. The clay is used in its native

state, without any admixture, and is cleared of its coarse particles

by washing. After the water has been let off and evaporated so as

to leave it of a sufficient consistency, it is put on the wheel and

formed into plates, mugs, jars, &c. which are bulky and heavy, but by

no means strong. They are rendered less fragile by being covered with

an excellent thick glazing. The furnaces have no chimneys, but consist

merely of a low arch in which are several vent holes. The glazing

furnace is reverberatory, but it is so ill constructed as to destroy

much fuel and produce little heat. Throughout the whole district there

is good coarse clay, for bricks, tiles, &c.

I was here invited to taste some wine, made from grapes grown on

the spot, which was excellent. A more happy situation than this

vicinity affords for the growth of fruits of every kind can scarcely

be imagined. The pear, the olive, and the mulberry would thrive here

equally well with the grape, if proper pains were taken with them. A

skilful agriculturist would with great ease, I am certain, bring it

into such a state of improvement, as to serve the double purpose of

a corn and dairy farm; excellent wheat might be grown, and a certain

quantity of the land kept under artificial grasses for cutting. A fine

stream of water runs through the whole, with a sufficient fall to turn

mills.

The principles of husbandry seem as little understood here as in any

part of the territory through which we had hitherto travelled. Perhaps

there is no country on the globe where the vicissitudes of plenty and

scarcity do not prevail, and where human experience has not shewn the

necessity of laying by a store in time of abundance, as a provision for

a season of famine; but here this salutary practice is almost wholly

disregarded. The cattle are turned out on the uninclosed tracts[39],

and left to subsist on whatever they can find. In the summer months,

when the grass throughout the wide extent is burnt up, they flock to

the margins of the rivulets as their last resource, which soon fails.

Numbers of them die of famine, and those that survive the season are so

exhausted and weakened, that they seldom thoroughly recover.

A small mount in the vicinity of this pottery presented much

ferruginous matter, and a heavy substance that appeared to me barytes

in a botryoidal form, a specimen of which I took with me. Since my

return to England it has been proved, by analysis, to be Wavellite,

without fluoric acid.

During my stay at Villa Rica, I rode to the city of Mariana, distant

eight miles, by a tremendous and almost impassable road, along a

ridge of mountains; and afterwards went thither by the general road

which passes between two high hills, and for some distance along the

river-side, all the way on the descent. The margins of the Rio do

Carmo, which runs through the town, have been washed the whole way

from Villa Rica: parties from which place held possession of this

settlement as early as the year 1710, claiming it on account of the

gold brought down from thence by the current of the river. It was

made a bishop’s see about the year 1715, and was called Cidade de

Mariana, in honor of the then reigning Queen of Portugal, the present

Prince Regent’s grandmother. It is a small, neat, and well-built town,

containing from six to seven thousand inhabitants. Here is a college

for the education of young men destined for the church. The bishop

is a prelate of exemplary character, and is beloved by all who know

him. The place has very little trade, and depends chiefly on the mines

and farms in its vicinity. Many miners reside here whose works are

several leagues distant, some of them have also washings extending to

the village of Camargo, situated beyond a large plain which stretches

westward from the confines of the city.

Having resided in Villa Rica nearly a fortnight, I expressed a desire

to visit two estates, forty miles distant, known by the names of

Barro and Castro, both belonging to the Conde de Linhares. Between

the years 1730 and 1740 these estates produced much gold, and were

then in the possession of Senhor Mathias Barboza, a settler of great

respectability, who took up these lands and drove the Aborigines from

them. He becoming very rich, sent his only daughter to Portugal to

be educated, where she remained, and after his death inherited his

whole property. She was married in Lisbon to a gentleman of the family

of Sousa, and from them are descended the two noblemen of that name,

who now hold high official situations under the Prince Regent. His

Excellency the Conde’s steward furnished me and my worthy friend with

mules, and Dr. Lucas, the Judge, obligingly ordered every necessary to

be provided for our journey. We rode through Mariana, and arrived at

Alto do Chapada, a village, three miles distant from it, situated on an

elevation in the midst of a fine plain. We soon afterwards reached a

very high and confined situation, between two perpendicular mountains,

from whence we had a bird’s eye view of the village of S. Sebastian.

From this steep we descended, with great difficulty, on foot, to

the Rio do Carmo at its base, over which is a very high-arched and

picturesque bridge. Passing this ravine we proceeded a full league by

the river side, through a rich country abounding in fine sloping hills

and fertile plains, watered by numerous streams, which flow into the

river in various directions, and all of which bear vestiges of having

been formerly washed for gold. The road-side exhibited similar remains,

and seemed to have been at some period connected with the river, which,

in this part, is as large as the Thames at Windsor. We passed through

San Giatanha, a straggling, thinly peopled village, and proceeding

about three miles farther, arrived at an indifferent house, called

Lavras Velhas, where we halted for the night, having performed half

our journey. The owner of this place found it difficult, with thirty

or forty negroes, to maintain himself decently, though the land was

susceptible of every species of culture, and needed only the hand of

industry to render it productive. Every thing about the establishment

exhibited a pitiful spectacle of neglect, indifference, and sloth. It

is but justice to add, that he treated us with the greatest civility,

and amply supplied our necessities.

Leaving Lavras Velhas at eight next morning, we passed Morro dos

Arreaes, the country presenting still finer valleys and excellent

timber, but totally destitute of cattle. Ascending a high hill, we

were immerged for about an hour in a cloud, and exposed to some small

rain, but not sufficient to penetrate our coats. This was the only rain

we experienced on the road by day. In the night the rain sometimes

fell plentifully. We observed some exceedingly large worms, stretched

motionless on the road, which our guide told us were sure signs of wet

weather. From this height we saw the Rio Gualacha, which, with another

river, joins the Rio do Carmo about ten leagues below, and forms the

Rio San Jose. Proceeding in that direction through a fine country,

we reached Altos de St. Miguel, where the river last mentioned is of

considerable width, but not deep. Its waters are extremely turbid, on

account of the mud brought from the gold-washings along the banks, from

its source to this place. These heights command a fine view of three

windings of the river; at their base there are vestiges of one of the

oldest and most extensive gold-washings, which yielded much treasure to

its discoverer and proprietor, Senhor Mathias Barboza. The country is

well wooded, but rather thinly peopled; I expressed some surprise at

observing no good dwelling-houses in a district which formerly produced

so much wealth, and was informed that the first miners, eager to take

the cream of the gold to as large an extent as they could, seldom

remained long on the same spot, and contented themselves with building

sheds, or _ranchos_, to serve for their temporary residence.

Descending this mountain, we entered upon the estate of His Excellency,

called Fazenda do Barro, and were shewn the house at a distance of

nearly a league, on a pleasing eminence, near the river-side. On

arriving, an excellent dinner was provided for us, of which, having

been eight hours on our mules, we partook very heartily.

The house, and indeed the whole establishment, were strikingly superior

in point of convenience, to the miserable places we had lately passed.

Having dined, we refreshed ourselves with a walk in the garden, where

the coffee-trees in full blossom showed, at a distance, as if their

branches were loaded with snow. This spot afforded a view of a most

enchanting country, diversified with gentle eminences and large valleys

well clothed with timber. From the farther margin of the river, which

flows at one hundred yards’ distance in front of the house, rises a

fine hill, well calculated for the culture of every species of produce,

and connected with others of equal fertility.

On the following day I was chiefly occupied in visiting every part

of the establishment. The distil-house, sugar-engine, and corn-mill,

were very much out of repair; the two latter were worked by horizontal

water-wheels of great power. The buildings of the _fazenda_ form

a square, the southern side being occupied by the house, and the

three others consisting of dwellings for the negroes, storehouses,

carpenters’ and blacksmiths’ shops, and other offices equally useful.

Having requested to see the cattle, I was shown seven fine well

proportioned cows; their calves were old, and they being unaccustomed

to be milked regularly, gave very little. I signified to the people my

wish to instruct them in the way of making butter after the English

mode; and the carpenter hearing my description of a churn, readily

assured me that he could make one, and set about it forthwith in the

following manner. He procured a trunk of a tree of the length and

girth required; sawed it length-wise in two equal parts, which, (after

hollowing them sufficiently, and preparing a bottom), he joined with

two iron hoops so tightly as to hold water. The churn-staff and top

were soon finished: but now an unexpected difficulty occurred; here

was no place free from dust and dirt to serve for a dairy, nor any pan

fit to hold the milk. All the cooking-pots that could be spared were

cleaned for this purpose, but they were quite of the wrong make, being

wide at the bottom and narrow at the brim. They were, however, laid by

along with the churn, to be used the first time the cows were milked.

The good lady of the house assisted in our preparations, and seemed

much interested in them.

In the afternoon I rode out to see the gold-washings. On the way

thither I observed a man training a horse, with a cord attached to the

bridle in one hand, and a whip in the other. Two pieces of leather,

in the form of breechings, were sewed to two iron rings; one part

was put over the back of the animal, the other part slipped down as

a breeching; the part on the back was to prevent its slipping lower.

To these rings were tied cords from the horse’s fore-feet, capable

of being shortened or lengthened at pleasure. The horse being put in

motion, took very short fore-steps, somewhat like those of the chargers

in equestrian performances. Horses thus trained are here called

_pacers_, and are in great request among persons of distinction of both

sexes, their gait being very easy and graceful.

On arriving at the washings, I saw a great extent of ground already

worked, and immense heaps of quartzose stones. On the margin of the

river where they were then working, I found them cutting away the

bank, to the depth of at least ten feet, to get at the _cascalho_

incumbent on the rock. The substance they had to cut through was clay,

so strong that, though falls of water were let upon it, and negroes

were constantly working it with hoes of various kinds, it was with

difficulty to be removed. This was not the only impediment, for, by the

constant precipitation of mud, the _cascalho_ was five feet below the

bed of the river; hence, when they had sunk their pits, they had to use

means for drawing the water from them. The hydraulic machines employed

for this purpose are constructed as follows: A trough or spout, made

of four stout planks, forming a trunk, about six inches square, is

placed in an inclined position, with its lower end in the pit, where

a roller is properly secured to a pile driven in the ground: an iron

chain, with peculiar links, on every one of which is fixed a piece of

wood, nearly answering the interior dimensions of the spout, is passed

through it, then under the roller, and over the outside, up to the axis

of a water-wheel, which, being put in motion, causes the discharge of

a column water equal to the cavity. These machines are calculated to

raise a great deal of water, but they are liable to be thrown out of

repair. In many cases hand-pumps would serve the purpose better, being

made at little trouble or expense, easily repaired, and always ready

at an hour’s notice. They are here utterly unknown.

In the operation of getting gold, the heavy work is assigned to the

male negroes, and the lighter labor to the females. The _cascalho_,

dug from these pits by the former, is carried away by the latter in

_gamellas_, or bowls, to be washed. When a sufficient quantity has been

procured, the men proceed to that process, which they perform much

in the way already described in treating of S. Paulo. I perceived,

however, that here they did not, in the first instance, attempt to

separate the gold from the black oxide of iron, but emptied their

_gamellas_ into a larger vessel, by rinsing them in the water which

it contained. The substance deposited in this vessel was delivered

out, in small portions of about a pound each, to the most skilful

washers, as the operation of washing, or, as it was termed, purifying

it, required great niceness and dexterity. Some of the grains of gold

were so fine as to float on the surface, and of course were liable to

be washed away in these repeated changes of water; to prevent which

the negroes bruised a few handfuls of herbs on a stone, and mixed the

juice in small proportions with the water in their _gamellas_. Whether

this liquid did in reality tend to precipitate the gold, I could not

positively ascertain, but the negroes certainly used it with the

greatest confidence.