fastened in a mud-hole; this was a most inauspicious state of things,
and to say that we were vexed is using a tame term. There is always one
alternative, in our case there were two; we could either stand up in the
rain, or lay down in the mud; we chose the former, and as soon as it was
sufficiently light, disentangled our cart, and at nine arrived at
Nagarotes.
We were in a sad plight to make our appearance among bright eyes. We
were in a similar condition to the individual who had not slept any for
three nights--last night, to-night, and to-morrow night, with the
addition, in our case, of having been thoroughly saturated with rain.
Our driver, as if to show his superior wisdom, took his hat from beneath
a rawhide in the cart, and dressed in dry pants and shirt, the first
clothing he had had on since our first acquaintance with him. Nagarotes
is a miserable town; the inhabitants a mixture of Spanish and Indian,
the latter predominating. They are all extremely robust and healthy in
appearance.
After breakfast we moved on, and at 12 M. arrived at Lake Leon. The
appearance of this lake as it opened to our view was peculiarly
striking. It is shut in by lofty mountains, which tower up in
innumerable peaks of volcanic origin, from many of which the smoke curls
gracefully out, commingling with the clouds. From the center of the lake
rises an island of conical form, which towers up as if to look into the
surrounding craters. While our driver was feeding his team we prepared
for a bath. We were, however, much disappointed in the anticipated
pleasure, finding the heat of the water almost insufferable. Our first
sensation was that of pain, and we were soon again in our clothes. This
phenomenon added a peculiar interest; the lake seemed a huge cauldron,
steaming over an invisible furnace, the surrounding craters serving as
flues or chimneys.
We passed along down to Matares, a small town situated on an eminence
overlooking the lake, and inhabited by descendants of the African race.
We breakfasted on chickens, _frijoles_, _tortillos_, eggs, &c., and
after an hour’s detention started for Managua. We passed through a
delightful region of country, the soil, in many places, highly
cultivated, bearing the impress of thrift and industry, I had not before
seen in the country. Fruits grow in abundance, cattle had an unlimited
range, and were the finest I ever saw; the country was broken, the
mountains towering up to the clouds, and some covered with perpetual
snow; but at their base were vales watered by mountain rivulets, and
shaded by groves of orange and fig, seeming a retreat fit for the
angels.
Night overtook us, and we encamped on the bank of the lake; starting
early in the morning we descended a hill, being the immediate bank of
the lake, and at sunrise arrived at Managua, which is situated at the
foot of the lake. We breakfasted with Don Jose Maria Rivas. He was a man
of much intelligence, and seemed to feel a lively interest in the
affairs of the United States, as well as those of his own country. He
alluded to General Taylor’s career, and spoke of his death as a national
calamity. We could not prevail upon him to accept remuneration for our
breakfast, but pressed it upon a member of the family. We hope we may
some day have the honor of serving the worthy Don at our own board.
After a detention of two hours, we were again under way, passing through
a most delightful country, with highly cultivated plantations, watered
by rivulets running from the mountains. We passed along on the margin of
the stream which connects Lake Leon with Lake Nicaragua, running in the
direction of the latter. After a fatiguing day’s march night overtook
us, and our driver very considerately got the cart fast in another
mud-hole. We encamped, and soon had the satisfaction of hearing the
rumbling of distant thunder, and soon were wet to the skin. In the
morning at sunrise we were at Nindaree; soon after leaving this town we
came to what appeared the _ruins_ of
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of W. G. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
OUR ARRIVAL AT MASAYA.]
a volcano. It had consumed itself to its very base, and the surrounding
country was strewn with lava, which, in color and form, much resembled
blooms or pigs of iron. We moved on, and soon saw indications of the
city of Massaya.
I had two companions who were mounted on donkeys. (See Plate). Our
_long_ friend was obliged to hold up his feet to keep them from dragging
on the ground; he wore spurs, but they were, _at first_, of no use to
him; when he would raise his feet to apply them, they would be so far
_aft_ they would not touch the animal; he, however, with Yankee
ingenuity, put them on just below the knee; this had a perceptible
influence, enabling him to lead the party.
We were disposed to make as favorable an impression upon our _entrée_ as
possible. My other companion had hoisted his umbrella, and got his
donkey well waked up; I had been leading _our_ horse all the morning,
wishing to make my advent on a _fresh_ animal. As we were about to
ascend the hill I mounted; my horse at this moment was seized with a
most voracious appetite. I applied my spurs, which only seemed to give
him a keener relish for the grass. I pulled upon the bridle--it seemed
to open his mouth the wider, but go he would not. My companions had left
me, and even the cart had passed; and now a party of females, laden with
corn for the market, walked leisurely by, not, however, without giving a
mischievous wink at my perplexity. This was too much; I dismounted, cut
a heavy stick, and again mounted. Under the influence of this, he seemed
to devour small brush with the greatest avidity. I must confess I felt
cornered; what to do I did not know. I hailed a native lad who was
passing, and requested him to go behind and push; this the horse seemed
to think derogatory to his _standing_, and raising one of his hoofs, he
struck the lad about _midships_; the precise number of summersets he
turned, I am not prepared to say. He soon gained his feet, and, in a
most musical mood, took the longest kind of steps in the direction of a
_rancho_, where, no doubt, his mother lived.
One of the horse’s legs having got in motion, I applied, most
vigorously, spurs and cudgel, and soon the other three started, and I
was under way at a rapid pace. I soon gained the summit of the hill,
when my horse raised his head, pricked up his ears, and with his
nostrils distended looked a very Bucephalus. Never did I make a more
auspicious entrée into a city than on this occasion; the natives stood
all agog, and even the Bloomer-clad señoras, that had looked upon me
sneeringly but a few moments before, now courtesied with veneration.
_Apropos_ of Bloomerism--this is the prevailing fashion in Central
America; it has become so deeply rooted that it will be difficult to
eradicate it. I would recommend this as a favorable retreat for ladies
of the North who wish to dispense with the long robe.
Chapter Twenty-sixth.
MASSAYA--THE CARNIVAL--FEMALE LABORS--GOURDS--MAIDENS CONSIGNED TO
A VOLCANO--A DONKEY “NON EST”--OX _versus_ DONKEY--SAME MEDICINE
PRESCRIBED--LAKE NICARAGUA--GRENADA--A “PRIEST” IN A CONVENT--“OUR”
HORSE--A GROUP OF ISLANDS--CROSS THE LAKE--MR. DERBYSHIRE’S
PLANTATION--BREAKFAST--BULLOCKS STEPPING ON BOARD--SAIL FOR SAN
CARLOS--MAGNIFICENT SCENE--A HYMN OF THANKS--A MOUNTAIN CITY--GOLD
MINES--ARRIVAL AT SAN CARLOS--CUSTOM-HOUSE REGULATIONS REPUDIATED.
After breakfast we strolled about to see the town; the location is
commanding, being on the bank of a lake of the same name. The town is
large, well laid out, with an open plaza in the centre, which serves as
a market-place. At this time everything wore a business-like appearance.
Extensive preparations were being made for the carnival, which was to
come off in a few days. Here are many fine buildings, including
churches, monasteries, and convents, all elaborately ornamented, and
decorated with paintings.
This is considered one of the most pleasant towns, if not the most
pleasant, in the country. Yet, strange as it may seem, it is wholly
dependent, for water, upon the lake, the bank of which is a
perpendicular ledge of rocks, one hundred feet in height. Up this
precipice females are toiling, day after day, for life, in the service
of inhuman masters. The water is conveyed in gourds of immense size,
which are held to the back by a strap and netting of grass, the former
passing over the forehead. These gourds grow on trees, and are natives
of the tropics; they grow sufficiently large to contain one and a half
or two gallons, perhaps more.
The surrounding country is a mass of lava, the mountains frequently
towering up, terminating in volcanic peaks, the most prominent being
that of Massaya. This was once the terror of the country, but has now
ceased to burn. It is said that the natives formerly, in order to
appease its rage, were in the habit of consigning their most beautiful
maidens to its terrific bosom. After stopping two hours we were again
under way, _en route_ to Grenada, distant twelve miles.
The country is rolling, and timbered with cedars, our route laying along
a stream emptying into Lake Nicaragua. After traveling six miles we
encamped for the night. In the morning our companion’s donkey was _non
est_; there were three drivers now in the party; four _reals_ was the
first charge for finding said donkey; the proposition being readily
accepted by the owner, they thought it was worth _five_; this being,
accepted, six were demanded, or two _reals_ each for the drivers. Now,
we still had fresh in our minds a certain transaction, the subject of
which was an ox instead of a donkey. After a word of consultation we
came to the conclusion, that notwithstanding the disparity in the length
of ears, the same remedy might prove effectual in both cases. We
immediately acted upon this hypothesis, and prepared a liberal dose of
_saplings_, and in order that the medicine might reach the system
_unadulterated_, we ordered them to take off their shirts. The medicine
proved too strong for their nerves, even before tasting it, and
forgetting the _reals_, they assured us that they would have “_mula aqui
una momento_,” and in five minutes his donkeyship was under the saddle.
It was the donkey belonging to our _long_ friend, and it was shrewdly
suspected that he (the above-named donkey) was in collusion with the
drivers. Whether the accusation was true or false, I am not prepared to
say; I noticed, however, that in the course of the morning his master
administered to him a dose of the same kind of medicine.
At 9 A.M., we were on the banks of Lake Nicaragua, at Grenada. This is a
beautifully located town, with paved streets, and magnificent churches.
A description of one town in Central America describes them all. They
are all built upon the same plan, with spacious plazas in the
centre;--extensive churches and convents, all after a similar order of
architecture, some of them ornamented with a degree of splendor seldom
surpassed, if equalled, on this continent. The streets, when paved, are
paved with cobble-stone, with the gutter in the center. This mode has
its advantages when carriages are seldom used.
We here found an American, Mr. Priest, of Philadelphia, who had just
entered a convent; not, however, with a view to taking the veil, but to
take down the superfluous crosses and ornaments, preparatory to
converting the building into a hotel. The building had attained the
advanced age of two hundred and forty years; it seemed almost sacrilege
to divest it of its ornaments. The natives were accustomed to seeing
priests enter convents, but they looked upon the demonstrations of our
Philadelphia Priest with a suspicious eye.
In Spanish America, a horse that is led through the street is always
considered “up” for sale. We hired a _muchacho_ to lead ours through
Grenada, and soon had several applicants. One, wishing to try him,
mounted, and the horse being thirsty, walked very deliberately down to
the lake, and waded in until the water came up to his sides. After
remaining for a certain length of time, the rider pulled on the reins,
and invited the horse to step ashore; but, no--he was perfectly
satisfied with his situation, and did not wish to change it. He applied
the spurs--the horse appeared to have fallen into a quiet slumber; he
swore in Spanish, but it was of no use. There was no alternative but to
dismount, and wade or swim ashore. He reached the shore in safety, but
did not buy the horse. We offered him to Mr. Priest for six dollars,
including saddle, bridle, and spurs. He offered two, at which price we
“closed him out.”
Our first efforts were directed to hiring conveyance to San Carlos and
San Juan; we applied to Mr. Derbyshire, an English merchant from
Jamaica, and succeeded in hiring a _bungo_ of sufficient capacity to
carry our party of fifteen, including baggage. There were two other
_bungoes_, hired by Americans that were to be our company down; and
after a protracted and vexatious detention of two days, the time of
starting arrived. We now, however, had a new and unexpected difficulty
to encounter, the boatmen refused to go on board; but after a long
parley, a complaint was lodged with the Alcalde, who ordered out a file
of soldiers, they forming in line along the river bank to protect the
agents, while they were _whipping_ the boatmen on board. At length the
oars were plied, and we shot out into the lake, and laid our course for
a group of islands three miles distant, in order to lay in a stock of
plantains for the voyage. This group number one hundred islands, each
having one house and one proprietor. Nothing can excel the beauty and
fertility of this group; tropical fruits grow spontaneously and in the
greatest abundance, and the islands seem to nestle, with feeling
security, in the bosom of this lake, which sleeps in perpetual calm. The
foliage is most luxuriant, interlaced with vines bearing flowers of
every conceivable hue; these flowers generally hang from the vines on
tendrils, and spend their hours fondling with the air, loading its
breath with perfume. The trees grow to the very margin of the lake, and
seem to look admiringly into the mirror at their feet.
Remaining during the night we took an early start, laying our course in
the direction of Mr. Derbyshire’s plantation, which is on the opposite
side of the lake, thirty miles distant. Our mission here, or that of our
boatmen, was to take in cattle for the San Juan market. We arrived early
in the morning of the second day from the islands. Our ambitious boatmen
would work only in the evening and morning; in the middle of the day
they would lay and broil in the sun.
We arrived at an early hour, and commenced preparing breakfast. We had
chickens, and rice, and chocolate on board; we sent to the plantation
for eggs, milk, and bananas, and soon sat down to a breakfast that would
have pleased the most fastidious palate. The manner in which it was
served I am not prepared to say was quite so satisfactory. (See Plate.)
One was sitting on a rock, drinking his coffee from a tin basin; another
standing up, doing likewise; a third holding a chicken by a leg and
wing, trying to dissect it without the use of edged tools. One of our
party has finished his breakfast, and is sitting on a rock, in a very
aldermanic attitude, smoking a pipe, probably the only one ever
introduced into Central America.
While we were taking breakfast, the natives were taking in a cargo of
bullocks; the manner was truly Spanish. The bungoes were anchored a
short distance from shore, the cattle were driven as near as convenient,
when one of them would be _lassoed_, the other end of the lasso being
fastened to the horse’s neck; the horse is mounted and spurred into the
lake, drawing the victim after him, which, in case of resistance, is
unmercifully beaten. The horse tows him around on the seaward side of
the
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
BREAKFASTING ON SHORE,
_NICARAGUA LAKE_.]
_bungo_, when the lasso is slipped and the bullock beaten and _booted_
until he jumps on board. Two passengers of this class will be seen
cozily chewing their cuds in the midships of the two _bungoes_ in the
foreground, and one is just _stepping on board_ that on the right. In
the background is seen a party of natives, cooking and eating breakfast.
They put rice and plantains together into an iron pot, and stew them
into a chowder which is served out in small gourds. After spending an
hour on shore, there was a simultaneous move to go on board; the
inexpressibles of some were rolled up, others pulled off. Before
starting we saw one native moving towards the _bungo_, and one only; he
was dressed in nature’s garments, with a palm-leaf hat in his hand, and
a bunch of stolen bananas on his shoulder. On arriving at the side of
our bungo, we found the best apartments occupied by his bullockship, to
which we immediately protested, as contrary to the rules of polite
society; not that we wished to limit any one of the passengers in the
number of legs used, but then his head-dress was “positively shocking,”
and might put us to great inconvenience in a case of emergency. Our
first impulse was to show him the depth of water on our larboard
quarter, but then he seemed quiet, and as he was engaged to appear at
the table of nobility at San Juan, we resolved to submit to the
inconvenience, and let him ride. We soon slipped our cables, and were
under way in the direction of San Carlos. Nothing can exceed the
magnificence and beauty of the scene that now surrounds us. Mountains
are climbing one above the other, until the last is lost in the clouds;
the lake is studded with islands, some reposing modestly in her bosom,
others rearing their heads as if trying to vie with the surrounding
mountains. Now night throws her sable mantle over the scene, and all is
hushed as death; the surrounding volcanos light their watch fires, and
loom up in the most terrific grandeur. In the morning our boatmen rose
up from their seats, and, in a wild strain, chanted a hymn of praise to
God for protection to themselves and “los Americanos.”
In the course of the morning we passed in sight of a town, which was
situated on the side of the mountain, at a great elevation, presenting a
most picturesque appearance. We also saw miners at work in the gold
mines, on the side of the mountain. As we drew near San Carlos, we saw
several volcanos rising, in pyramidal form, from the bosom of the lake;
one, that of Omotepeque, towering up to the height of six thousand feet.
(See Plate.)
On our arrival at San Carlos we were required to submit to custom-house
regulations, the officer insisting upon searching our trunks. To this we
demurred, having passed through the entire country without submitting to
such an ordeal. The officer seeming anxious to compromise the matter,
demanded $5 in stead from each; the Americans who had preceded us
submitted to this extortion, but we were determined to resist. The
officer became more moderate, coming down--down--down--to a _real_; upon
our refusing to pay this, he made a move in the direction of the cannon
which was near; we, however, were first to possess it, and things for
the moment wore a warlike appearance. The officer, not wishing to bring
things to a crisis, held a consultation with our “Padrone,” and came to
the conclusion that all was right, that as we were Americans he would
treat us with due consideration. At the left, in the Plate, is seen the
residence of this worthy officer, behind which is the village of San
Carlos.
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SAN CARLOS NICARAGUA LAKE]
Chapter Twenty-seventh.
PASSAGE DOWN THE SAN JUAN RIVER--CASTILIAN RAPIDS--THE
“DIRECTOR”--ARRIVAL AT SAN JUAN--BOARDED BY A POSSE OF
NEGROES--BRITISH PROTECTORATE--PHILANTHROPY OF GREAT BRITAIN--HER
MAGNANIMOUS AND DISINTERESTED CONDUCT TOWARDS THE NATIONS OF THE
EARTH--NICARAGUA GRACIOUSLY REMEMBERED--A HUNT FOR A SOVEREIGN--A
FULL-GROWN KING DISCOVERED--HIS
DIPLOMACY--INVINCIBILITY--AMUSEMENTS AND CORONATION--HIS FIRST PAIR
OF PANTALOONS--HAIL “KING OF THE MUSQUITO COAST”!!!--ALL HAIL
JAMACA I.!!!--“HEAR! HEAR!!!”
We were soon on board, and passing around a point, were floating down
the San Juan river at the rate of five knots. After a two hour’s run our
boatmen unshipped their oars, and commenced gambling; we were borne
along by the current, at the rate of two miles an hour, until toward
evening, when the oars were again manned. At nine in the evening, the
roar of the water admonished us that we were approaching the Castilian
rapids, and we came to anchor. The natives have a dread of this rapid,
and in passing it feel that their lives are in imminent peril; in this
case, however, a party of boatmen forgetting themselves in sleep, passed
over, and in the morning found themselves entangled in the bushes, along
the margin of the river. We descended the rapid, finding the steamboat
“Director,” in the act of ascending; she was making her first passage
up, preparatory to taking her place on the lake for the transportation
of passengers, in connection with Vanderbilt’s Line of steamships. The
passage up the rapid was very difficult, owing to the strong current,
being about six knots; she however succeeded, and is now plying on the
lake. We passed down, and at two the next morning came to anchor in the
harbor of San Juan.
At an early hour in the morning we were boarded by a posse of negroes,
whose mission it was to search our baggage for firearms; they succeeded
in finding two rusty guns belonging to our padrone, which they carried
off in triumph. It is well known that this harbor is under the
protectorate of Great Britain, and our worthy visitors were subjects of
Her Majesty, as well as of His Majesty of the “Mosquito Coast.” They
seem in fear of an army from Grenada, hence this precaution.
The town consists of about fifty thatched houses, tenanted by French,
English, German, Spanish, and Negroes. Things here are, in a measure,
_reverso_; a negro is agent for Great Britain--his boots are blacked by
a white man. We found a British man-of-war in port, which is kept here
to enforce their _wholesome regulations_.
The philanthropy of Great Britain has become proverbial. There is
scarcely a port on the European continent that has not heard the music
of her cannon, and been relieved of its surplus treasures. Three-fourths
of a century ago, she _succeeded_ in establishing, on the American
continent, the government of the United States, and a few years
thereafter voluntarily offered the use of a fleet and army at New
Orleans, a part of which was _used_, the balance returned. Mexico has
also been a recipient of her kind attentions. She has taken possession
of the richest mines in Mexico, and worked them _gratuitously_, sending
off millions under the protection of the “red cross of St. George.” Her
sappers and miners have found their way to Peru and Chili, as well as
other divisions on the Pacific coast of South America, the mines of all
of which have been taken possession of, and worked on the same
_accommodating_ terms as those of Mexico. She sent a fleet _free of
charge_ to the Argentine Republic, took possession of her ports, and
_forced_ the navigation of her rivers. Texas, after emerging from her
glorious struggle for liberty, was offered the kind wing of protection;
Great Britain even going so far as to offer her assistance in
maintaining a separate republic, thinking annexation to the United
States inexpedient. She visited China in the capacity of doctor, and
most magnanimously forced her prescription down their unwilling throats.
Her philanthropic eye next took a survey of Central America. Here she
found governments of that _odious_ form called republican, that of
Nicaragua having an extent of sea coast, with accessible ports, and
numerous rivers.
No one, up to this time, had interfered with the jurisdiction
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA.]