which is erected on one of the highest peaks of the mountain, and from
which, at the approach of a steamer, a blue flag is displayed, or a
white one at the approach of a sailing vessel. The town is completely
land-locked, there being not the slightest indication of it until
passing around the bluff into the inner bay, when the castle is seen
directly in our course, and passing on, bearing to the left, the town is
seen stretching away up the side of the mountain. The bay has the
appearance of a lake being entirely shut in by mountains. Our steamer
passed on to within fifteen or twenty rods of the town when we dropped
anchor and were immediately boarded by the officer of the port, also by
innumerable men and boys for passengers, and females with fruit.
Passengers are taken into bungoes, or canoes, which are headed in until
the bow strikes the shore, when they take their stand preparatory to a
jump as the sea runs back. (See Plate.) Not unfrequently they are
overtaken by the next sea, which is extremely embarrassing, particularly
if one has just changed his linen. We entered the town at the foot of
the main street; two churches are seen, each supporting a tower, the
custom-house being in the foreground at the left. The buildings are of
one story, constructed of stone or _adobes_, and covered with tile. This
is one of the most beautifully located towns on the Pacific coast. It is
never visited by
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
ACAPULCO.]
blighting winds but is shut in by mountains, watered by mountain
rivulets, and supplied with all the tropical fruits, which grow here
spontaneously, and in the greatest abundance. It reminds one of the
“happy valley” of “Rasselas.” Along the margin of the bay are trees of
peculiar shape called the “amata,” or tree of love, the form of the top
resembling an umbrella, under which hammocks are slung--and people enjoy
their _siestas_. (See Plate). The castle is a work of some strength
mounting several brass pieces of heavy calibre; it is however much
neglected, being garrisoned only by a few barefooted soldiers. Just back
of the town is a stream of the purest water from springs on the mountain
side; this is the bathing place of the inhabitants, and a more inviting
one could not be imagined; the stream is so limpid, and of such a
congenial temperature, that one feels that he could repose in its bosom
forever. In taking a bath it was difficult to rid ourself of the
presence of a half dozen señoritas who would come to the bank, towel in
hand, offering to prepare you for your clothes, for the moderate sum of
sixpence. They were all beautiful, but I preferred seeing them under
other circumstances. This want of modesty, as it will be termed, is a
characteristic of Spanish America, and although it may show a want of
refined delicacy according to the frigid laws of the States, they are
entirely unconscious of impropriety.
The females here are celebrated for their beauty, finely developed
forms, and graceful bearing, as well as for their vivacity and winning
pathos in conversation. They possess many peerless traits of character,
and manifest a devoted attachment to their parents and offspring. The
full dress of a lady consists of a white chemise, a colored skirt
flounced at the bottom, and a scarf which serves alternately as a shawl
and bonnet.
The market is well supplied with every variety of fruit and cakes, and
beef by the yard. The stands are mostly attended by females. The first
salutation upon entering the market-place is from the little girls, who
hail you with, “Say, Americano! lemonade, picayune?” holding up to you a
plate containing a glass of lemonade, as will be seen by the
accompanying Plate. At the left, in the foreground, is seen a Señora
making love to an _hombre_ who looks from underneath his huge
_sombrero_, and seems to hold the tighter, his lemon basket and jug.
Then there is little _Niña_ with her picayune-lemonade, and _Muchacho_
with his hat on his head, inverted, and filled with lemons. He was
requested to stand for this drawing, and looked the very personation of
a corn-field effigy. Then there is _Señora_, the second, standing
demurely, supporting on her head, a basket of shells. Then comes one of
the “immortal garrison;” he supports a high plume and long cigar. There
is something extremely martial in his attitude, although he appears lame
in one foot. Just behind this soldier, is a group of three; the man is a
Californian; he was brought ashore by the boy, but does not seem anxious
to pay his fare. The boy has his hand full of stones, by which he
designs to convince the man that he had better pay. During the parley, a
female runs out, and recognizing the man as having got his dinner of her
without paying for it, she says, “Ah! you thought I wouldn’t know you,
but I do know you.” This was coming too thick for the man, and, giving a
kind of “b’hoy” bend of the knee, he runs both hands into his pockets,
with a “well, I guess if I owe you anything, I can p-a-y.” The range of
buildings at the right are eating and drinking saloons. An officer is
seen galloping across the plaza, with a sentinel at the left. Back of
the town, an opening is cut through the mountain, presenting a very
striking appearance, and is said to have been done by the Spaniards to
give the town a circulation of air. Acapulco contains 3,000 inhabitants,
many of whom are the native Indian race. It is somewhat subject to
earthquakes, there being at present several ruins of buildings,
including one church, that were prostrated a few years since.
In passing down from Acapulco to Realejo, there is a continuation of the
same magnificent scenery, and as you near the harbor, you see towering
up from the Cordilleras, Viejo, the most elevated volcano in Central
America. (See Plate.) It is seen rearing its head above the clouds, and
belching forth a column of smoke. This volcano, for many years, ceased
to burn; but a few years since, the whole of the surrounding country
became agitated; the air was filled for several days, with smoke so
dense and black, that it entirely obscured the sun, rendering it dark as
night. The inhabitants were appalled with terror, some fled the country,
others collected their families and shut themselves up
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
MARKET PLACE, ACAPULCO.]
in their houses, or assembled _en masse_ in the churches; beasts were
seen near the habitations crouching with fear, and wild fowls were heard
shrieking through the air. On the night of the third day, the country
underwent another frightful convulsion, followed by a terrific
explosion, when this volcano vomited forth a deluge of liquid fire,
which swept down its sides, carrying devastation in its track. At this
eruption, so great was the quantity of lava thrown out that part of the
summit, near the crater, was carried away, as will be seen by the
accompanying plate.
Realejo has a fine harbor, being situated on an arm of the ocean. As you
pass in, passing an island at the entrance, you find yourself in a bay
of sufficient capacity to accommodate the navies of the world. Our
steamer passed up three miles to a dock which was being constructed by
Howard and Son, and to which we made fast. This is one of the coal
depots for the line, and preparations were making to construct suitable
buildings. After landing our baggage, we engaged “bungoes” to convey us
to Realejo, three miles distant, and as we passed along up, we found the
margin of the bay low and swampy, and, in some places, as will be seen
at the right, above the dock, forests of mango-trees growing up from the
water. Several rivers put in at the head of the bay, their banks low and
swampy, presenting a very unhealthy appearance.
Realejo is a town of 400 inhabitants. The houses are one story, built of
_adobes_, and covered with tile. There are several churches in ruins,
and one much dilapidated, but still used; the natives are the most
squalid I saw in Central America, and everything is done on that
behind-the-age principle that characterizes Spanish America.
At the left, in the accompanying Plate, will be seen a cart, drawn by
two yoke of oxen, and lashed to their horns are sticks, four feet in
length, which fall against their foreheads, and by which they draw. The
cart-wheels are made by sawing two cuts from a log, and boring holes
through at the heart; a pole is run through, with a linch-pin hole in
each end. A rude frame of reed or cane is put on to keep the wheels from
running together, and as this is covered with raw hides, it serves as a
protection to the passengers in case of rain. When all are ready, the
driver mounts the tongue, with a long pole, prepared to “stir up the
animals;” he gives the inimitable whoop, and they are under way. When he
wants them to bear to the left, he applies the end of the pole to the
right-hand leader, shoves him out, and they come to, and _vice versa_.
On the road there is always in attendance a little boy, whose duty it is
to “grease the wheels.” He is supplied with a quantity of green bark,
and when the wheels creak he applies a piece; it winds around the axle,
and seems to ease the pain. This, to a person accustomed to an easy
carriage, would seem an uncomfortable mode of performing a journey; yet,
dear reader, in this same cart, at this particular time, there is a
gentleman and lady, well-known in New York circles, on their way to
Nicaragua, _en route_ to the United States. They are seated on their
trunks, in a recumbent attitude, with heads uncovered, each drop of the
wheel seeming to _give rise_ to new phrenological developments.
There is a spacious hotel now being built here, and there is a prospect
that the town will become Americanized. We were obliged to take lodgings
at a private house. We lived on chickens, eggs, and _carna_, or beef
dried in strings, and sold by the yard. At night we slung ourselves up
in hammocks, at the mercy of the mosquitos. After a detention of two
days, we succeeded in hiring passage, in carts, for Chinandega. Our
driver was anxious to start at an early hour, and _hitched his oxen to
the cart at_ 2 P.M. We seated ourselves on trunks, inside, and were soon
under way.
Nothing could have been more ludicrous than the appearance of the
passengers, as each had assumed a peculiar attitude. Here sat a lank
doctor of six feet three, his feet hanging out at the fore-end of the
cart, his legs and body being warped up along the side of the covering,
his head sticking out behind. On the other side, seated flat in the
bottom, was a man very nearly as tall, but not half so amiable, who had
somewhat the appearance of a clothes-rack unshipped, and seemed to think
this a suitable occasion for the use of _hard words_. He was under oath
all day, and swore himself to sleep at night. Soon after starting, our
driver, with the greatest precision, brought up against a rock, which
not only caused a great mortality
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
BARACO REALEJO.]
among the hats inside, but broke our axle. Our driver hacked down a
sapling with his matchet, and soon had a new one, and was again under
way.
Our driver was a decided genius in his way, and with a suitable pair of
pantaloons, and a clean shirt, would have done honor to Wall-street. He
would hide his oxen every opportunity, and then throw a native boy in
our way, who would offer to find them for $5. I need not add that the
reward was divided between them. One transaction of this kind we thought
quite sufficient; and in his subsequent financial transactions he was
not so successful, as the sequel will show. His entire wardrobe was a
shirt, which he carried in his hat. Our _muchacho_, who attended to the
wheels, was much less encumbered. We gave him a shirt, which he very
judiciously rolled up and tied around his neck; I say judiciously, for
when he arrived at Chinandega he had a clean shirt to put on.
The country from Realejo to Chinandega, is a continuous mud-hole, and,
together with the intense heat and our wretched conveyance, made our
sufferings intolerable. The distance was but seven miles, still as night
overtook us, and our team gave out, we were obliged to encamp before
reaching the town. In the morning, our driver went out in search of the
team, but soon returned, pronouncing them _unfindable_. This was most
vexatious. We were almost in sight of Chinandega, but with the prospect
of being detained for hours. Our driver was accompanied by a worthy, of
about his own age and personal appearance. We sent our driver out again
in search, but his companion remained. After loitering for half an hour,
he proposed going out in search of the team, thought he could find them
for five dollars; we, as if wishing to drive the best bargain we could,
asked him if he could not find them for less; he came down to four,
three, two, and one dollar, and finally to twenty-five cents. We took
him, tied his hands behind him, then tied him to a tree; we then cut a
half-dozen good sized _saplings_, designing to “put him through a course
of sprouts.” He was almost frantic, and seemed to look upon this as a
crisis in his affairs. We asked him where the oxen were, he said, “just
over the hill;” we asked him if our driver knew it, he said, “Si,
Señor.” We told him to call him, and in a moment he was at hand. He
looked with apparent concern at the situation of his _companion_, and
endeavored to keep beyond the orbit of our _saplings_. We ordered him to
back up to a tree, he fell on his knees and said he would find the team
in “_una momento_,” and in a moment they were at the tongue of our cart;
we now demanded his half of the five dollars already extorted, which he
immediately paid over, and seemed to breathe more freely. We now
released his companion, in part, in order to give him an opportunity to
escape, which we saw he was anxious to do. He improved the golden
moment, for as we were making certain demonstrations with our _saplings_
he made one tremendous leap and disappeared in the chaparrals. We were
soon at Chinandega, and did not forget to deduct the other two dollars
and a half from our freight bill.
Chinandega is a beautiful town, well laid out, the streets running at
right angles, and built upon compactly. In the suburbs, the streets are
walled up, with the fluted cactus, with an occasional opening through
which you enter into ornamented groves and arbors. Nothing can exceed
the beauty and luxury of these retreats. Fruits of the most delicious
flavor grow spontaneously, every vine blooms, and the air laden with
incense, breathes through, whispering gently to the foliage; here are
also innumerable tropical birds, lending their notes and plumage to the
scene. This town is celebrated for its beautiful women, and never did I
look upon such specimens of female grace and loveliness. Their eyes were
dark and lustrous, and their countenances, like their native clime,
always beaming with sunshine. The town numbers several churches and
convents of great extent, one of the former being surmounted by a
spacious dome and spire, (see Plate,) and furnished with an organ and
valuable scriptural paintings. Near the town is a stream and pool, the
favorite bathing-places of the inhabitants. (See Plate.) In the pool are
seen both sexes, the Señoritas displaying their graceful forms, without
the least reserve or sense of impropriety. Water is obtained here for
the use of the town; bathers fill the earthen jars, when the Señoritas
place them upon their heads and walk gracefully away. Here are seen a
party of females preparing corn for “tortillos;” they boil it in water
into which is thrown a handful of ashes; it is then put into a basket
and the hull removed, by getting in with their feet; it is then washed,
dried,
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
CHURCH IN SHINANDAGUA.]
and parched, placed upon a flat stone, and with another stone ground to
a flour.
I engaged a cart to take myself and baggage to Grenada, but after
waiting one day, with no prospect of starting, I purchased a horse, and
engaged passage for my trunk in a cart that was about to start, and was
soon under way. We passed through Chichigalpa, Poselagua, &c., small
towns, and at night, put up at a miserable _rancho_, with the prospect
of a poor supper, and poorer lodgings. We had traveled, during the day,
through a level, densely timbered country, the road having been a
continuous mud-hole, in many places almost impassable; I stretched
myself out on a bench, half my length, and after paying court to
Morpheus for an hour, fell into his arms. The next morning, at ten, we
arrived at Leon, the capital of Nicaragua; we had not breakfasted,
consequently this was our first care, after which we took a survey of
the town.
This is a place of much importance, being the home of the aristocracy
and talent of the country. It is ornamented with public buildings,
churches, and convents which, for extent and magnificence, are not
equalled in the country. The plaza is spacious, and surrounded by public
buildings, elaborately ornamented with stucco, all indicating the work
of a master-hand. My first impressions were of the most pleasing
character, but upon extending my walk, a feeling of sadness insensibly
stole upon me. Here, too, amidst the beauties, I might say the
perfections of nature, here in this almost celestial atmosphere, is
found the impress of those sanguinary revolutions, with which this
doomed country has been laid waste. One half the town is in ruins.
Palaces that were once the scene of regal banquets, are now roofless,
and tenanted only by loathsome reptiles. Here, are figures, representing
Liberty and Peace, now half-buried beneath the ruins, their faces
bearing the marks of the ruthless sabre. The political, like the natural
existence of this country, has always been precarious; her social
elements, like her subterranean caverns, have always been in a state of
agitation; the lava of human passions frequently bursting forth,
devastating, and drenching the country with blood.
The inhabitants of Leon were, as a class, superior to any I had seen in
the country; the men were robust, active, and intelligent, and the
females beautiful. They seemed more nearly allied to the Castilian than
any I had seen in any of the departments of Spanish America. Hospitality
is the predominant characteristic; we frequently found ourselves under
obligations, and owing debts of gratitude I fear it will never be in our
power to cancel. We feel under particular and lasting obligation to Don
Pedro Vaca, and family, for their unsolicited attentions. It was to them
we were indebted for a bountiful repast, which was prepared and served
by the accomplished daughters,
Whose sympathetic smiles chased fatigue away,
And changed the night of melancholy into day.
They were beautiful, and unconsciously so. I was at a loss which most to
admire, the graceful forms, finely-chiseled features, lustrous eyes, and
flowing hair, or that soft winning artlessness, which was so
preëminently theirs. There was a daughter-in-law in the family; she was
also beautiful, but her beauty was in strong contrast with that of the
daughters--she having auburn hair, light eyes, and an alabaster
complexion. I here fell in with Capt. B., an “old salt,” who very kindly
received my trunk into the cart with his own.
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
BATHEING AND WASHING CORN,
_AT CHINANDAGA_.]
Chapter Twenty-fifth.
A PROBLEM IN MATHEMATICS WORKED OUT WITH A CANE--PUEBLO
NUEVA--CULTIVATING THE ACQUAINTANCE OF A HORSE--LOOKING FOR THE
RIDER--AN “OLD SALT” STUCK IN THE MUD--UNCOMFORTABLE NIGHT’S
REST--NAGAROTES--LAKE LEON AND THE SURROUNDING
VOLCANOS--MATARES--DELIGHTFUL COUNTRY--MANAGUA--DON JOSE MARIA
RIVAS--NINDAREE--RUINS OF A VOLCANO--A LONG INDIVIDUAL IN SPURS--A
DILEMMA--ONE OF MY HORSE’S LEGS IN MOTION--A BOY IN A MUSICAL
MOOD--ENTRY INTO MASSAYA--BLOOMERISM.
After remaining three hours at Leon, we were again in motion; not,
however, without the usual “_poco tiempo_.” Our driver now had half a
dozen “_compañeros_;” and in this country people are slow, in
mathematical progression, or retrogression--what takes one half an hour
to do, takes three six hours. Our captain, however, worked out this
problem with his cane upon the back of one of the drivers, which
produced a very different result. Our team did not get hungry, nor our
drivers fatigued; the latter manifested a particular aversion to the
captain’s system of mathematics. The very sight of his cane would create
a _stampede_ among them.
Our route, during the day, lay through a densely timbered country, the
road muddy, and heat excessive; our team becoming much jaded. We moved
on until 11 P.M., when, finding feed, we encamped for the night; we
found neither a downy pillow nor a musquito net, but were obliged to
drop down in the mud at the mercy of those vile insects. Three hours of
_rest_ sufficed, and at 2 A.M., we were again in motion, and at nine
arrived at Pueblo Nueva. Here we found nothing new, excepting that the
inhabitants wore hats and pantaloons. We had breakfast and were again in
motion, our route, as on the previous day, being through a densely
timbered country, with extremely muddy roads. I had purchased a horse
and equipage, and anticipated a pleasant day’s ride. My horse and myself
were strangers, but I was soon in a fair way of _cultivating_ his
acquaintance. The party had gone on. After arranging my saddle, I
mounted, gave the word, and started, myself, but my horse did not; I
applied my spur gently, but no signs of life; I applied both spurs, with
the same result. I dismounted, examined the saddle, and finding all
right, I again mounted; but with all my arguments I could not induce him
to take the first step. Presuming there was something wrong, I again
dismounted, and went into a critical examination. The saddle was
properly adjusted, he had the usual number of legs, and seemed in good
condition. There was nothing malicious in his eye, nor was he stuck in
the mud. I cut a fair-sized cane and again mounted, but with this
additional argument I could not induce him to move, although it was
accompanied by the most vehement jestures. He would occasionally look me
in the face, and seem to say, “I don’t _exactly_ understand what this
means.” Three natives coming along at this particular juncture, I
induced them to go behind and push; their first effort caused a general
relaxation of the muscular system, and the next moment my horse was on
his back, his eyes rolled up, the very picture of resignation; _I_ was
looking around on the ground for the rider. We stood in momentary
expectation of seeing him breathe his last, but he soon got up and very
deliberately commenced eating; I tried to lead him, but no. As the
natives were going in the same direction, we each cut a long pole and
went behind, soon convincing him that he was a very fair traveler.
I soon overtook the captain, he being on foot, a short distance in the
rear of the party, and informed him of the difficulty I had had with my
horse. He thought it was owing to his reluctance at leaving home, and
proposed to buy a half-interest, and I pay half the expenses of the
cart. Two influences operated upon my mind in coming to a conclusion;
one, that my trunk was already on the cart, the other that I thought one
owner quite insufficient for _such_ a horse. The captain mounted, and I
hurried on to overtake the team. Night soon overtook us, and with it a
terrific thunder storm. It was extremely dark, and we were obliged to
grope about to find our way, the rain pouring down in torrents. We had
distanced the captain, but he soon informed us of his locality by
bawling out lustily for help. We were startled, and hurried back to his
assistance, when we found him
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
HARBOUR OF REALAJO.]
mounted, the only difficulty being that our horse imagined himself stuck
in the mud. The captain had exhausted all the arguments of spurs and
stogy, but could not succeed in dispelling from his mind this strange
hallucination. We cut a couple of _saplings_, and after warping him
“fore and aft,” half a dozen times, he came to the conclusion that there
must be some mistake about it, and moved on. We were destined to
encounter other difficulties, for soon after overtaking our cart the
axle broke, we unloaded, cut a new one, and after a detention of two
hours, were again in motion.