horse-shoe, and one of the most delightful spots I ever saw. I selected
it for my own use--as a rice and sugar plantation--but have not _yet_
had the title examined. In the middle of the night a canoe passed down
in which was the man suspected of having borrowed my vest. He spoke to
one of our party, said he was on his way to Chagres, on business, but
would return to Gorgona immediately. We took an early start in the
morning, and at nine stopped at a rancho to purchase cigars. Such a
squalid family I never saw. There were three women, two or three young
ladies, and half a dozen children--none of them were dressed, excepting
a little boy who had on a checked palm leaf hat. We asked for cigars,
they had none, but would make some for us, “poco tiempo,” (little time).
We couldn’t wait. We were much struck with the appearance of the dog,
which was so poor that, in attempting to bark at us, it turned a
summerset. We were now not far from Gorgona, and exerted every nerve to
reach our destination. At noon, while at dinner, a young native
approached us from the forest, and proposed to help work the boat up to
Gorgona. As he was a tall, athletic young fellow, and _didn’t charge
anything_, we accepted his proposition, and gave him his dinner. We were
now six miles from Gorgona, and with the aid of our native there was a
prospect of arriving in good time. The river was shallow, with frequent
rapids, and, although our boat drew only nine inches water, we were
frequently obliged to get out and tow it up. (See Plate). Your humble
servant is standing on the bow of the boat with a long pole. Cooper is
“_boosting_” at the side. Hush is doing duty--the first on the rope.
Dodge is in a passion and in the act of addressing some emphatic remark
to _gentlemen_ on board. Natives are seen in their canoes, and just
above, seated on the limb of a tree, is a monkey who appears to be
looking on enjoying the scene. As we passed under the tree he came down
upon one of the lower branches, and seemed disposed to take passage. An
alligator is seen on the bank below, and in the air innumerable parrots.
The noise of these is one of the annoyances of this country, their
screeching incessant and intolerable. Late in the afternoon we arrived
within half a mile of Gorgona, which was behind a bend of the river,
where our native wished to land. We soon passed the bend, when the town
was in full view, and in a few moments our labors were at an end. Our
friends had felt some solicitation for us. Seven days was an unusual
passage _at this season of the year_, and if they had wished to effect
an insurance on us it is doubtful whether it could have been done in
Gorgona at the usual rates.
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N.Y.
PASSING A RAPPID,
_on Chagres river_.]
Chapter Sixth.
CUSTOMS AND DRESS OF THE NOBILITY--A SUSPICIOUS INDIVIDUAL--JOURNEY
TO PANAMA--A NIGHT PROCESSION--A WEALTHY LADY IN “BLOOMER”--AN
AGREEABLE NIGHT SURPRISE--“HUSH” ON HORSE BACK--CAPTAIN TYLER
SHOT--A MOUNTAIN PASS AT NIGHT--THUNDER STORM IN THE TROPICS.
The town is pleasantly situated about fifty feet above the level of the
river, and contains some eight hundred inhabitants. At the time of our
arrival, there were about five hundred Americans encamped in the town.
The buildings are mostly constructed of reed, thatched with palm-leaf.
(See Plate). A hammock is slung under the eave of one of these houses,
occupied by the mother, in the act of administering to the wants of a
little one; an open countenanced dog is near, as if waiting to relieve
the child, a señora is shelling corn, and a hog is looking on, one foot
raised, in readiness to obey the _first_ summons.
The people dress, as in Chagres, with the addition, in some cases, of
half a yard of linen and a string of beads. The Alcalde and his lady
were generally well dressed; but, as strange as it may appear, they were
always accompanied in their morning walks by their son, a lad of
fourteen, his _entire_ costume consisting of a Panama hat. In the
evening of the day of our arrival, we observed our worthy boatman making
himself familiar around the American tents. Soon the police were on the
alert, and we were informed that he was one of the most notorious
thieves in the country. He had landed back, thinking it safer to come
into town at night. We had our baggage carried up, and were soon
residents of the American part of the town. I was here put in possession
of facts which strengthened my suspicions of the individual who passed
down the river on the previous night; and, in the sequel, instead of
returning to Gorgona, he, on his arrival at Chagres, hired a native to
carry him to a vessel that was about to sail for New Orleans, and in
attempting to climb on board he missed his footing, fell into the water
and was drowned. His hat came to the surface, but his body was never
recovered.
There was, at this time, no means of conveyance from Panama to San
Francisco, and people preferred remaining, and consuming their
provisions in Gorgona, to paying exorbitant prices to have it
transported to Panama. After remaining some days I purchased a horse,
and started for Panama, twenty-five miles distant.
It is a pleasant ride across, being a succession of mountains and
valleys, each valley containing a spring-brook of the purest water. Two
miles out of Gorgona you enter a mule path running through a dense
forest, the branches interchanging overhead, forming an arbor
sufficiently dense to exclude the sun. You sometimes pass through
gullies in the side of the mountain, sufficiently wide at the bottom to
admit the mule and his rider, and looking up, you find yourself in a
chasm with perpendicular sides, twenty feet in depth, into which the sun
has never shone. Here, as in all Spanish countries, are numerous
crosses, marking the resting-place of the assassin’s victim. When within
three miles, the country opens, disclosing to the view the towers of the
cathedral, indicating the location of Panama. The balance of the road is
paved with cobble stones, the work of convicts, who are brought out in
chain-gangs. One mile out, you cross the national bridge, a stone
structure of one arch; here is also an extensive missionary
establishment, now in ruins. When within half a mile of the wall of the
city, you pass a stone tower, surmounted by a cross. You are now in the
suburbs of the city. The street is paved, and on either side are ruins,
some of considerable extent, having been costly residences, with highly
cultivated gardens attached. You pass a plaza, on one side of which is
an extensive church. You now enter between two walls, which gradually
increase in height, as you approach the gate, until, crossing a deep
moat which surrounds the city, they are joined to the main wall.
On entering the gate the first thing that presents itself is a chapel,
where you are expected to return thanks for your safe arrival. I rode
through, put my horse in the court-yard of the
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N. Y.
NEW GRANADEAN MOTHER]
“Washington House,” took supper, surveyed the town, and retired. At
about three in the morning, I was aroused by a strange noise. On going
to the window I saw a procession of nuns and priests passing through the
street, escorted by a band of music. They presented a strange
appearance. The priests were dressed in black robes and tights, wearing
black hats with broad brims, rolled up and fastened to the crown; the
nuns, with white scarfs passing over the head and sweeping the round,
each carried a lighted taper, presenting the appearance of a procession
of ghosts. They would all join in chanting some wild air, when the band
would play the chorus. Nothing could be more impressive than such a
scene as this. Aroused from sleep at the dead of night, by such wild
strains, uttered in such impassioned tones, as if pleading for mercy at
the very gates of despair. They seemed like doomed spirits, wandering
about without a guiding star, under the ban of excommunication.
I rose early in the morning, bathed in the Pacific, and after breakfast
mounted for Gorgona, where I arrived in the evening. I went to a
_rancho_, half a mile distant, for sugar-cane for my horse. I was waited
upon by the proprietress who accompanied me to the cane-field, and used
the machet with her own hands. After cutting a supply for the horse, she
presented me with a piece for my own use, which I found extremely
palatable. This _lady_ is one of the most extensive landholders in New
Grenada, and one of the most wealthy. She lived in a thatched hovel, the
sides entirely open, with the earth for a floor. Her husband was
entirely naked, and seemed to devote his attention to the care of the
children, of whom there were not less than a dozen, all dressed like
“Pa.” She dressed in “Bloomer,” i. e., she wore a half-yard of linen,
and a palm-leaf hat. My horse was stolen during the night. I went to the
Alcalde next morning, offered him $5 reward, and before night I was
obliged to invest another _real_ in sugar-cane for my worthy animal.
Money here is a much more effectual searcher than eyes, particularly for
stolen horses.
After remaining a few days I again started for Panama. It was after
noon, and after riding some distance my horse was taken sick. I stopped
until evening, when I again mounted, but was soon obliged to dismount
and prepare for spending the night in the woods. It was quite dark, and
as I was taking the saddle off my horse five very suspicious-looking
natives came up, and were disposed to be inquisitive. To rid myself of
them, I told them I expected a “companiero.” They left with apparent
reluctance. After kindling the fire, fearing they might renew their
visit, I put caps on my revolver, preparatory to loading it. As I was in
the act of so doing my horse startled, looked wildly about, and, in a
moment, I heard footsteps approaching. As they drew near, I thought they
were in boots, and consequently Americans. I cried out, “Americano?”
They immediately called my name. My surprise and pleasure can well be
imagined as I recognized the voices of the Dodges, Shultz, Eiswald, and
Hush.
After mutual congratulations we prepared supper, and were soon seated
around the fire, recalling the incidents of our voyage up the river. The
elder Dodge was lying on a trunk near the fire, and late in the evening,
as the muleteer was attempting to drive the horses back, one of them
took fright, wheeled about, and in attempting to jump over the trunk,
his forefeet came in contact with Dodge, knocking him off, and planting
his hind feet into his back. We were struck with horror, supposing him
dead, but after straightening him up, and washing his face and head, he
was able to speak. He was still in a critical condition, and we were
obliged to attend him during the night. The next morning, after a long
hunt for our horses, we rode a short distance to an American tent, and
leaving the Dodges and company, I rode on to Panama. The next day Mr.
Dodge arrived, in a very feeble state of health, but eventually
recovered.
In a few days I returned to Grorgona, and sold the “Minerva.” She was
drawn up into town, inverted, making the roof of the “United States
Hotel,” the first framed building erected in Gorgona. On my way back to
Panama, as I had got about half way through, I was surprised at meeting
Mr. Hush. He informed me that he did not think Panama a healthy place,
and that he was on his return to the States. He sat on his horse with a
good deal of ease, his feet appearing to have on their best behavior. He
could not get them into the stirrups, still they appeared to go quietly
along by the sides of the horse. Why he thought Panama unhealthy, was a
mystery to some. I am not prepared to say that his party ever
_insinuated_ anything of the kind. In the after part of the day, I was
over taken by Maj. Sewall, lady, and suite. They descended the mountain,
and as they were about to cross the brook at its base, Capt. Tyler, one
of the party, dismounted, and as he was crossing over, a
double-barrelled gun accidentally discharged within four feet of him, he
receiving the entire charge in his hip. This caused the greatest
consternation. The Capt. having Mrs. Sewall’s child in his arms, it was
feared it had received a part of the charge. This fortunately did not
prove to be the case. The Capt. was immediately stripped, the wound
dressed, and through the kind assistance of the Engineering corps of the
Panama Railroad, who were encamped near, a litter was constructed, and
he was taken through to Panama on the shoulders of the natives.
I was detained until the sun had disappeared behind the mountain, and it
was with some difficulty my horse found his way. I ascended the next
mountain, and in attempting to descend, lost my way. I dismounted, and
after a long search, found the gully through which it was necessary to
pass. There was not a ray of light--it was the very blackness of
darkness--and on arriving at the end of the gully, I was again obliged
to dismount, and after groping about for half an hour, found what I
presumed to be the path. My horse was of a different opinion. The matter
was discussed--I carried the “point.” After riding a short distance, he
stopped, and on examining the path, I found that it dropped abruptly
into a chasm twenty feet in depth. My horse now refused to move in any
direction, which left no alternative but to encamp. I succeeded in
finding canebrake, which I cut for him, and spreading out my India
rubber blanket, using my saddle as a pillow, I stretched myself out for
the night. A most profound stillness reigned through the forest. All
nature seemed to be hushed in sleep. Occasionally a limb would crack,
struggling with the weight of its own foliage, and once, not far
distant, a gigantic tree, a patriarch of the forest, came thundering to
the ground. A slight breeze passed mournfully by, as if sighing its
requiem, and again all was still.
This solemnity was painfully ominous. There appeared to be something
foreboding in the very solemnity that reigned. If I ever realized the
companionship of a horse, it was on this occasion; and I believe it was
reciprocal, for when I would speak to him, he would neigh, and seem to
say, “I love you, too.”
In the middle of the night I was attracted by the barking of a monkey,
which very much resembled that of a dog. This called to mind home, and
caused many a bright fancy to flit through my imagination. I was soon,
however, drawn from my reverie by the low muttering of distant thunder,
portending an approaching deluge, which, in this climate, invariably
follows. It grew near, and was accompanied by the most vivid flashes of
lightning. This revealed to me my situation. I was on the side of the
mountain, at the base of an almost perpendicular elevation, which was
furrowed by deep gullies, giving fearful token of approaching
devastation. Very near was a gigantic palm-tree, the earth on the lower
side of which appeared to have been protected by it. I removed my saddle
and blanket, and my horse, asking to accompany me, was tied near. The
lightning grew more vivid, and the thunder, as peal succeeded peal,
caused the very mountains to quake. The clouds, coming in contact with
the peaks, instantaneously discharged the deluge, which, rushing down,
carried devastation in its track. The sight was most terrific. By the
incessant flashes I could see the torrents rushing down, chafing,
foaming, and lashing the sides of the mountains, as if the _furies_ were
trying to vie with each other in madness. In an hour the rage of the
elements had ceased, the thunder muttering a last adieu, fell back to
his hiding place, and again all was still. My blanket had protected me
from the rain; and if I am ever on a committee to award premiums for
valuable inventions, Mr. Goodyear will be at the head of my list. I
slept until morning, when I had an opportunity of viewing the
devastation of the night. I mounted, and at 10 o’clock arrived at
Panama.
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST N. Y.
BATTERY, PANAMA.]
Chapter Seventh.
PANAMA--CATHEDRAL AND CONVENTS--RELIGIOUS
CEREMONIES--AMALGAMATION--FANDANGO.
Panama, under the Spanish dominion, was a city of twelve thousand
inhabitants, and was the commercial mart of the Pacific. The old city
having been destroyed by buccaneers, the present site was selected. The
military strength of the city is a true index to the state of the
country at the time of its construction; and its present condition a
lamentable commentary on the ruthless spirit that has pervaded the
countries of South America. The number and extent of the churches and
monasteries are a monument to the indomitable zeal and perseverance for
which the Catholic Church has been justly celebrated. Old Panama is
seven miles distant. An ivy-grown tower is all that remains to mark the
spot. The city is inclosed by a wall of much strength, outside of which
is a deep moat. It has one main and one side entrance by land, and
several on the water-side. The base of the wall on the water-side is
washed by the ocean at flood tide, but at the ebb the water recedes a
mile, leaving the rocks quite bare. There was formerly a long line of
fortifications, but at present the guns are dismounted, excepting on an
elbow of the wall, called the “battery.” (See Plate.) In the centre of
the town is the main plaza, fronting which is the cathedral, the
government house, and the prison. (See Plate.) Here is seen a “Padre,”
walking with a señorita; an “hombre,” mounted on a donkey, with a large
stone jar on each side, from which he serves his customers with water; a
“chain-gang” of prisoners, carrying bales of _carna_, guarded by a
barefooted soldier. And still further to the left is a sentinel watching
the prison. I will here state, that most of the Panama hats that are
made here, are manufactured in this prison.
The principal avenues, running parallel, are “Calle San Juan de Dio,”
“Calle de Merced,” and “Calle de Obispo.” There are numerous extensive
churches, the principal one being the cathedral. This is a magnificent
structure, and of colossal dimensions. In the end fronting the plaza are
niches, in which are life-size statues of the twelve Apostles, of
marble. It has two towers, the upper sections of which are finished with
pearl. The interior was furnished without regard to expense. It is now
somewhat dilapidated, but still has a fine organ. The convent, “La
Mugher,” is an extensive edifice, being 300 feet in length. The roof of
most parts has fallen in, and the walls are fast falling to decay. The
only tenant is a colored woman who has a hammock slung in the main
entrance. She has converted the convent into a stable, charging a _real_
a night for a horse or mule--they board themselves; they, however, have
the privilege of selecting their own apartments. It encloses a large
court, in which there are two immense wells, and numerous fig, and other
fruit trees. There is a tower still standing on one end of the building,
without roof or window; it has, however, several bells still hanging.
The convent of “San Francisco,” is also an extensive structure, in a
dilapidated state; one part of it is still tenanted by nuns. It has a
tower with bells still hanging. These buildings, as well as all the
buildings of Panama, are infested by innumerable lizards, a peculiarity
of the city that first strikes the stranger. They are harmless, but to
one unaccustomed to seeing them, are an unpleasant sight.
The people here, as in all catholic countries, are very attentive to
religious rites and ceremonies, and almost every day of the week is
ushered in by the ringing of church and convent bells. The ringing is
constant during the day; and people are seen passing to and from church,
the more wealthy classes accompanied by their servants, bearing mats,
upon which they kneel on their arrival. Almost every day is a saint’s
day, when all business is suspended to attend its celebration.
Good Friday is the most important on the calendar. All business is
suspended, all attend church during the day, and at night they
congregate _en masse_ in the plaza in front of one of the churches
outside the walls. Inside the church, held by a native in Turkish
costume, is an ass, mounted on which is a
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS, III NASSAU ST. N.Y.
GRAND CATHEDRAL, PANAMA.]
life-size wax figure of the Saviour. There are also life-size figures of
Mary, St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. John, each mounted on a car, and each
car illuminated by one hundred tapers, which are set in candelabras of
silver, and borne by sixteen men. Incense is burned, a chant is sung
accompanied by the organ, and at the ringing of a small bell, all rise
from their knees; the bell rings again, and the procession moves. The
ass is first led out, followed by the figures of Mary and the Apostles
in order; next, the band of music and the procession follows, which is
illuminated by innumerable tapers. They move toward the main gate, all
joining in the chant. The passage of the first of the procession through
the gate, is announced by the simultaneous discharge of rockets which
illumine the very heavens. The discharging of rockets is continued, and,
after passing through the principal streets, they return to the church
and deposit the images. They again return to the city, seize an effigy
of Judas Iscariot and after hanging it up by the neck, cut it down and
burn it. The celebration closes with the usual night procession of nuns
and priests. These celebrations and processions are conducted with the
greatest solemnity, the people all engaging in them as if they thought
them indispensable to salvation.
The priests are quite ultra in their dress, wearing a black silk gown,
falling below the knee, black silk tights, patent-leather shoes,
fastened with immense silver buckles, a black hat, the brim of the most
ungovernable dimensions, rolled up at the sides and fastened on the top
of the crown. Their zeal in religion is equalled only by their passion
for gaming and cock-fighting. It appears strange to see men of their
holy calling enter the ring with a cock under each arm, gafted for the
sanguinary conflict, and, when the result is doubtful, enter into a most
unharmonious wrangle, with the _faithful_ under their charge.
The citizens of Panama are composed of all grades of color, from the
pure Sambo, (former slaves or their descendants,) to the pure Castilian.
The distinctive lines of society are not very tightly drawn. At the
fandangoes all colors are represented, and a descendant of Spain will
select, as a partner, one of the deepest dye. In this hot climate the
waltz or quadrille soon throws all parties into a most profuse
perspiration, which causes _that other_ characteristic of the African
race to manifest itself. I would recommend my American friends to select
partners of the lighter color, as I am not prepared to say the _odor_ is
altogether pleasant. The order of the evening is to fill the floor; the
music and dance commence; when a gentleman gives out, another takes his
partner, and so on, until it is time for refreshments. The ladies never
tire.
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N. Y.
THE ISLANDS, FROM PANAMA]
Chapter Eighth.
BAY OF PANAMA--ISLANDS--SOLDIERS--ARRIVAL OF $1,000,000 IN GOLD AND
SILVER--A CONDUCTA--“BUNGOES” “UP” FOR CALIFORNIA--WALL STREET
REPRESENTED--SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO--CHIMBORAZO--CROSS THE
EQUATOR--A CALM--A DEATH AT SEA.
In the bay of Panama (called the “Pearl Archipelago,” from the numerous
pearls obtained in its waters,) there are innumerable islands, all of
great fertility, supplying the city with vegetables, tropical fruits,
eggs, fowls, &c. (See Plate.) It is, from these islands vessels are
supplied with provisions and water, the latter being obtained at Toboga,
one of the largest of the group. A more enchanting scene than is
presented from the higher points of these islands, cannot be imagined.
The bay as placid as a mirror, Panama in full view, with mountains
rising in the background. Looking along down the coast of South America,
you see a succession of lofty mountains, some by their conical peaks
proclaiming their volcanic origin, some still clouded in smoke, giving
token of the fierce struggle that is going on within. Still farther to
the right the bay opens into the broad Pacific; that little ripple that
is now running out, will go on gathering strength, until it breaks upon
the shores of the “Celestial Empire.” Still farther to the right, a
tower, shrouded in ivy, seems weeping over the tomb of a city.
In the background mountain succeeds mountain, until the last is buried
in clouds. Ships and steamers are lying quietly at anchor; numerous
islands are blooming at your feet, clothed with tropical fruits, growing
and ripening spontaneously. Nature reigns supreme, the hand of man has
not marred her perfection; if his rude habitation is sometimes seen, it
is nestling quietly in the bosom of some grove planted by the hand of
Nature, interlaced by vines, their tendrils entwining, forming an arbor
over his head, and presenting fruit and wine at his door. It seems a
paradise. It would seem that man might be happy here. He has not to care
for to-morrow, but to partake of the bounties of nature as they are
presented. But, alas! man spends his life struggling for the thousand
phantasies his own diseased imagination has engendered, while nature has
placed happiness within his reach, and only asks contentment on the part
of the recipient of her bounties.