[Illustration:
C. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. OF C. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N.Y.
PART OF SAN FRANCISCO,
_from a sketch by G. W. Casilear_
]
CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED:
INCLUDING
A DESCRIPTION
OF THE
PANAMA AND NICARAGUA ROUTES.
BY
A RETURNED CALIFORNIAN.
New York:
WILLIAM HOLDREDGE, PUBLISHER,
NO. 140 FULTON STREET.
1852.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852,
BY J. M. LETTS,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the
Southern District of New York.
E. O. JENKINS, PRINTER AND STEREOTYPER,
No. 114 Nassau Street, New York.
TO
Miss Hetta P. Letts,
OF
_Wood Lawn, Staten Island_,
THIS JOURNAL
IS
Most Respectfully Dedicated,
BY
THE AUTHOR.
Note to the Reader.
I have, in these pages, endeavored to convey a correct impression, I
have stated such facts _only_ as I knew to be facts, and interspersed
them with incidents that fell under my own observation. A season’s
residence in the mineral regions enabled me to obtain a correct
_interior view_ of life in California. The illustrations are truthful,
and can be relied upon as faithfully portraying the scenes they are
designed to represent. They were drawn upon the spot, and in order to
preserve characteristics, _even the attitudes_ of the individuals
represented are truthfully given. The first part of this volume is
written in a concise manner, with a view to brevity, as the reader is
presumed to be anxious to make the shortest possible passage to the
Eldorada.
THE AUTHOR.
Contents.
Page
CHAPTER FIRST.--Sail from New York--Our Pilot leaves us--Land recedes
from View--Sea-Sickness--A Whale--Enter the Gulf Stream--Encounter a
Gale--Enter the Tropic of Cancer--“Land, ho!”--Caycos and Turk’s
Islands--St. Domingo--Cuba--Enter the Caribbean
Sea--Sporting--Sunday--Standing in for the Port of Chagres--Beautiful
Scene--Drop Anchor, 9
CHAPTER SECOND.--Natives and “Bungoes”--Crescent City arrives--We sail
into the mouth of the River--Prepare for a Fight--Fashions and
Fortifications--An honest Alcalde--Non-fulfillment of Contracts, 13
CHAPTER THIRD.--First Attempt at Boat building--Excitement on
“’Change”--A Launch and Clearance--The Crew--A Mutiny--Quelled--Poor
Accommodations--A Night in Anger--An Anthem to the Sun--Nature in Full
Dress, 16
CHAPTER FOURTH.--Breakfast--Primitive Mode of Life--Meet the
Orus--Mutiny and Rain--A Step backward--Encampment--A fortified and
frightened Individual--Sporting--Mosquitos, 20
CHAPTER FIFTH.--First Rapid--An Unfortunate Individual--A Step
Backward--Several Individuals in a State of Excitement--Tin Pans not
exactly the thing--A Breakfast Extinguished--Sporting--Monkey
Amusements--A Flash in the Pan--Two Feet in our Provision
Basket--Poverty of the Inhabitants and their Dogs--Arrival at
Gorgona, 23
CHAPTER SIXTH.--Customs and Dress of the Nobility--A Suspicious
Individual--Journey to Panama--A Night Procession--A wealthy Lady in
“Bloomer”--An Agreeable Night Surprise--“Hush” on Horseback--Captain
Tyler shot--A Mountain Pass at Night--Thunder Storm in the
Tropics, 27
CHAPTER SEVENTH.--Panama--Cathedral and Convents--Religious
Ceremonies--Amalgamation--Fandango, 33
CHAPTER EIGHTH.--Bay of Panama--Islands--Soldiers--Arrival of $1,000,000
in Gold and Silver--A Conducta--“Bungoes” “up” for California--Wall
Street Represented--Sail for San Francisco--Chimborazo--Cross the
Equator--A Calm--A Death at Sea, 37
CHAPTER NINTH.--Stand in for San Francisco--Indications of Land--The
Coast--Enter the “Golden Gate”--Inner Bay--San Francisco--Lumps of
Gold--Notes of Enterprise--Surrounding Scene--Gambling, 44
CHAPTER TENTH.--The “Hounds”--Villainy--Indignation Meeting--Vigilance
Committee, 51
CHAPTER ELEVENTH.--Start for the Mineral Regions--Banks of the
Sacramento River--Shot at--Gold versus Mica--Sutterville--Primitive Mode
of Life--Sacramento City--An Individual who had “seen the
Elephant,” 56
CHAPTER TWELFTH.--Sutter’s Fort--A Herd of Cattle--“Lassoing”--Rio de
los Americanos--A Disappointed Hunter--A Californian Serenade--A Mule
and his Rider--Parting Company--Thirst--Serenades supported by Direct
Taxation--Sierra Nevada, 63
CHAPTER THIRTEENTH.--Venison--First View of the Gold
Regions--Surrounding Scenery--“Mormon Bar”--A Pocket--My Machine in
Motion--Certainty of Success--First Dinner--“Prospecting”--A Good
“Lead”--Disappointed Miners--A New Companion--A Higher Point on the
River--Volcanoes--Snowy Mountain--Auburn--Lonely Encampment, 70
CHAPTER FOURTEENTH.--A Sea Captain as Cook--A Herd of Deer--Return to
Mormon Bar--Keeping House--Our Machine in Motion--$1,500 in One Hour--An
Elopement--Wash Day--Sporting--Prospecting--Discovery of
Gold--Excitement--Fatigue--The Cakes “hurried up”--Incentives to
Exertion--Canalling a Bar, 80
CHAPTER FIFTEENTH.--Start for Sacramento City--The “Niagara
Co.”--Frederick Jerome--A Love Chase--Heroine under a
Blanket--Suspicious Boots--Part of a Lady’s Hat found--A Ball--Arrival
at Sacramento City--Poor Accommodations--Return to the Interior--A
Chase--A New York Merchant--Beals’ Bar--Embark in Trade--A
Mountaineer--Indian Characteristics, 87
CHAPTER SIXTEENTH.--The Mormons--The attempted Murder of Gov.
Boggs--Canalling Mormon Bar--False Theories in reference to Gold
Deposits--Influence of Amasa Lyman, “the Prophet”--Exciting Scene--Jim
returns--A Monte Bank “Tapped”--Jim’s Advent at Sacramento City, 95
CHAPTER SEVENTEENTH.--False Reports and their Influences--Daily
Average--Abundance of Gold--Original
Deposit--“Coyotaing”--Sailors--Their Success and Noble
Characteristics--Theatrical Tendencies--Jack in the After-Piece--Miners
on a “Spree”--The Wrong Tent, 101
CHAPTER EIGHTEENTH.--Arrivals--Preparation for the Rainy Season--New
Discoveries--Coloma--Gamblers _versus_ Bayonets--“Hangtown”--Public
Executions--Fashionable Entertainments--Wild Cattle--Dangerous
Sporting--Murdered Indians--The Wrongs they suffer, 107
CHAPTER NINETEENTH.--Canalling operations--Unsuccessful
Experiments--Coffee-Mills and Gold Washers--Formation of Bars--Gold
removed from the Mountains during the Rainy Season--Snow on the
Mountains, and its Dissolution--Rise and Fall of the River--Stock
Speculations--Quicksilver Machines--Separation of Gold and
Quicksilver--Individual Enterprise--Incentives to
Exertion--Expenses, 113
CHAPTER TWENTIETH.--Commotion in the Political Elements--California a
State--Slavery Prohibited--Political Campaign, and the Rainy
Season--Speech of a Would-be-Governor--Enthusiasm and Brandy--Election
Districts--Ballot-Boxes and Umbrellas--Miners in a Transition
State--Preparations for the Rainy Season--Primitive Habitations--Trade
Improving--Advent of the Rainy Season--Its Terrific Effects--Rapid Rise
of the River--Machines destroyed--Arrivals--My Store and Bed--A Business
Suit--Distressing Groans--The Bottle a Consolation--Several Strange
Specimens of Humanity cooking Breakfast--The Scurvy--A Death, 118
CHAPTER TWENTY-FIRST.--Dangerous Navigation--A Trip over the Falls--A
Night from Home--Sailor Hospitality--Scarcity of Provisions--A Hazardous
Alternative--A Wayward Boy--Preparations for leaving the
Interior--Distribution of Effects--Our Traveling Suit--Start for San
Francisco--Farewell--Three Individuals under a Full Head of
Steam--Arrival at the “Half-Way Tent”--Poor Accommodations--A Morning
Walk and Poor Breakfast--Wading Lagoons--Wild Geese--Arrival at the
American River--Our Toilet, and entry into Sacramento City, 123
CHAPTER TWENTY-SECOND.--A Dry Suit--Restaurants--Waiters and
Champagne-Two Individuals “Tight”--A $10 Dinner--Monte Banks and
Mud--Gambling and its Results--Growth of Sacramento City--Unparalleled
Prosperity--A Revulsion and its Cause--The Flood, 130
CHAPTER TWENTY-THIRD.--Sail for San Francisco--A
Fleet--Mud--Prosperity--Ships and Storehouses--Buoyant Seas--Shoals in
Business--Revulsion and Fire--Their Consequences--Sail for Santa
Barbara--The Town--Dexterous Feat by a Grizzly Bear--Fashions--Sail for
St. Lucas--Porpoises and Sea Fowls--Their Sports--Approach the
town--Peculiar Sky--Caverns in the Sea--Cactus--Beautiful Sea
Shells--Sail for Acapulco--Magnificent Scenery--Volcanos and
Cascades--Volcanos at Night--Eternal Snow, 134
CHAPTER TWENTY-FOURTH.--Acapulco--The Tree of Love--Bathing and
Females--A Californian in a Tight Place--Earthquakes--Sail for
Realejo--Volcano Viejo--Its Devastating Eruption--Realejo and Harbor--A
Cart and its Passengers--A Wall-street Financier
fleeced--Chinandega--Its beautiful Arbors--Bathing--Preparing
Tortillos--Leon--Its magnificence and desolation--Don Pedro Vaca and
Family, 142
CHAPTER TWENTY-FIFTH.--A Problem in Mathematics worked out with a
Cane--Pueblo Nueva--Cultivating the Acquaintance of a Horse--Looking for
the Rider--An “Old Salt” stuck in the Mud--Uncomfortable Night’s
Rest--Nagarotes--Lake Leon and the surrounding
Volcanos--Matares--Delightful Country--Managua--Don Jose Maria
Rivas--Nindaree--Ruins of a Volcano--A Long Individual in Spurs--A
Dilemma--One of my Horse’s Legs in motion--A Boy in a Musical
Mood--Entry into Massaya--Bloomerism, 151
CHAPTER TWENTY-SIXTH.--Massaya--The Carnival--Female
Labors--Gourds--Maidens consigned to a Volcano--A Donkey “_non est_”--Ox
_versus_ Donkey--Same Medicine prescribed--Lake Nicaragua--Grenada--A
“Priest” in a Convent--“Our” Horse--A Group of Islands--Cross the
Lake--Mr. Derbyshire’s Plantation--Breakfast--Bullocks stepping on
Board--Sail for San Carlos--Magnificent Scene--A Hymn of Thanks--A
Mountain City--Gold Mines--Arrival at San Carlos--Custom House
Regulations repudiated, 157
CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVENTH.--Passage down the San Juan River--Castilian
Rapids--The “Director”--Arrival at San Juan--Boarded by a Posse of
Negroes--British Protectorate--Philanthropy of Great Britain--Her
Magnanimous and Disinterested Conduct towards the Nations of the
Earth--Nicaragua graciously remembered--A Hunt for a Sovereign--A
Full-Grown King Discovered--His Diplomacy--Invincibility--Amusements and
Coronation--His First Pair of Pantaloons--Hail “King of the Mosquito
Coast”!!!--All hail, Jamaca I.!!!--“Hear! hear!!!” 163
CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHTH.--Sail for Home--Pass the “Golden Gate”--Sad
Condition of the Passengers--Graves at the Base of the Snowy
Mountains--Land Recedes--Luxuries on Board--A Death and Burial--Another
Death--Whales and Porpoises _versus_ Serpents of Fire--Thunder
Storm--Death of Dr. Reed--Three Dead Bodies found on Board--The
Scurvy--Five of the Passengers Insane--Evils of the Credit System--A
Cultivated Mind deranged--Memory lost--Its Cause--The Victim upon the
Verge of Death--Harpooning Porpoises--Exciting Sport, 169
CHAPTER TWENTY-NINTH.--Cloud and Clipperton Islands--Whales, Sharks,
Porpoises, and Dolphins--A Shark captured--Shark Steak--“Caudle
Lecture”--Death of Samuel B. Lewis--A Calm--Foot Races by the Ship’s
Furniture--Passenger Peculiarities--Short of Provisions--“’Bout
Ship”--First of January--Its Luxuries at Sea--A Tame Sea Fowl--A
Passenger Dying--A Shark--A delightful Evening Scene--A Death--Burial at
Sea by Candle Light--A Turtle navigating the Ocean--His suspicious
conduct--A written Protest against the Captain--Cocus Island--Capturing
“Boobies,” 175
CHAPTER THIRTIETH.--Intense Heat--Human Nature as exhibited by the
Passengers--Danger, not apprehended--A Tattler--A “Dutch Justice”--“Long
Tom Coffin”--A Quaker Hat--An Individual running Wild--His Oaths,
Depredations, Musical Accomplishments, Showman Propensities, and
Pugilistic Developments--“Blubber,” Buckskin, and “The Last Run of
Shad”--A capsized Whale Boat--Thrilling Sensation--Harpoon used--A
Shark--“Land ho!”--Gulf of Panama--South American Coast--“Sail
ho!”--Dolphin for Dinner--A Whale--A Terrific Gale--Our Sails and Spars
carried away, 180
CHAPTER THIRTY-FIRST.--Bay of Panama--Its Beauties--Tropical Fruits--The
City in sight--Excitement on Board--Appearance of the City--Her
Ruins--Preparations to Drop Anchor--“Stand by!”--“Let go the
Anchor!”--Farewell to the Sick--A Perilous Ride on the Back of an
Individual--On Shore--First Dinner--Nothing left--An Individual feeling
comfortable--Panama Americanized--A Moonlight Scene viewed from a Brass
“Fifty-Six”--A Dilapidated Convent as seen at Night--Church
Bells--Burning the Dead--Exposure of the Desecrated Remains--Sickening
and Disgusting Sight--Infants cast into Pits--The Rescue of their Souls
requiring a Gigantic Effort on the part of the Church--A
Catacomb--“Eternal Light”--Ignorance of the Mass--Peerless
Characteristics, 184
CHAPTER THIRTY-SECOND.--A Nun--Fandango--Marriage Engagement
broken--Start for Gorgona--Our Extreme Modesty--Sagacity of the
Mule--Sleep on my Trunk--A Dream--An Alligator with a
Moustache--Infernal Regions--Demons--An Individual with Long Ears, and a
Mule in Boots--Falling out of Bed--Funeral Procession--Gorgona--Start
for Chagres--Our Bungo Full--Spontaneous Combustion, almost--“Poco
Tiempo”--Lizards for Dinner--The Hostess--Gatun--Music of the
Ocean--Arrival, 190
CHAPTER THIRTY-THIRD.--Chagres, its Growth--Getting on board the Empire
City--Magnificent Steamer--Gold Dust on board--Steamers Alabama, Falcon,
Cherokee, and Severn--My friend Clark arrives on board--Preparations for
Starting--Our Steamer makes her First Leap--“Adios”--Caribbean
Sea--Heavy Sea on--Jamaica--Port Royal--Kingston--“Steady!”--Beautiful
Scene--Orange Groves--People flocking to the Shore--Drop Anchor--The
Town--General Santa Anna’s Residence--“Coaling up”--Parrot Pedler in a
Dilemma, 196
CHAPTER THIRTY-FOURTH.--Our Wheels revolve--The Natives of the Island
Extinct--The Wrongs they have suffered--The Island once a Paradise--San
Domingo, her Mountains--Cuba--A Shower Bath Gratis--“Sail ho!”--Caycos
Island and Passage--Turtle for Dinner--A Sermon--Gallant Conduct of our
Steamer--We ship a Sea--A Spanish Vessel in Distress--Our Tiller Chains
give way--A Knife and Fork in search of Mince Pies--Gulf
Stream--Water-Spouts--“Light Ship”--Sandy Hook--Anxiety--Sight of New
York--Feelings and Condition of the Passengers--A Sad Fate--Aground--A
new Pilot--Again under weigh--Near the Dock--Death--Man Overboard--Make
Fast--At Home--One Word to those about to embark, 201
CONSTITUTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA, 207
CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED,
INCLUDING A DESCRIPTION OF THE
PANAMA AND NICARAGUA ROUTES.
Chapter First.
SAIL FROM NEW YORK--OUR PILOT LEAVES US--LAND RECEDES PROM
VIEW--SEA-SICKNESS--A WHALE--ENTER THE GULF STREAM--ENCOUNTER A
GALE--ENTER THE TROPIC OF CANCER--“LAND, HO!”--CAYCOS AND TURK’S
ISLANDS--ST. DOMINGO--CUBA--ENTER THE CARIBBEAN
SEA--SPORTING--SUNDAY--STANDING IN FOR THE PORT OF
CHAGRES--BEAUTIFUL SCENE--DROP ANCHOR.
DEAR READER:--If you have visited California, you will find nothing in
these pages to interest you; if you have not, they may serve to kill an
idle hour. On the 27th of January, 1849, having previously engaged
passage, I had my baggage taken on board the bark “Marietta,” lying at
Pier No. 4, East River, preparatory to sailing for Chagres, _en route_
to California. It was 9, A.M. A large concourse of friends and
spectators had collected on the pier to witness our departure, and after
two hours of confusion and excitement, we let go our hawser--and, as we
swung around into the stream, received the last adieus of our friends on
shore. We were taken in tow by a steam-tug, and were soon under way, our
bowsprit pointing seaward. We occupied our time, while running down the
bay, in writing notes to our friends, our pilot having kindly
volunteered to deliver them. We passed Forts Hamilton and Diamond at 1,
P.M., and at three had made Sandy Hook. Our pilot’s boat, which had been
laying off, came along side to receive him; we gave our last thoughts
into his charge, and bade him adieu.
We had now passed Sandy Hook, and putting our helm down, we stood away
to the South. The wind being light, we bent on studding sails, and were
soon making our course at the rate of five knots. The excitement had now
subsided; and, as the hills were fast receding, we were most painfully
admonished that we were leaving home and friends. We soon sunk the
highest points of land below the horizon, and felt that we were fairly
launched upon the ocean, and that we were traveling to a scene of
adventure, the result of which no one could divine. We felt that sinking
of spirit one only feels on such occasions; and, at this particular
time, clouds as dark as night hung in the horizon of the future. Night
came on, and with it a stiff breeze, creating a heavy sea. This caused
most of the passengers to forget their friends, and bestow their
undivided care upon themselves.
For some cause, at this particular juncture, the passengers were
affected with peculiar sensations, mostly in the region of the stomach.
They did not think it was sea-sickness. Whatever the cause may have
been, the effect was most distressing. It assumed an epidemic form. The
symptoms were a sickening sensation and nausea at the stomach; the
effect, distressing groans and copious discharges at the mouth. The
captain felt no alarm; said he had had similar cases before on board his
ship. The night was spent in the most uncomfortable manner imaginable.
Many of the passengers, too sick to reach their berths, were lying about
on deck, and at every surge would change sides of the vessel. All being
actuated by the same impulse, performed the same evolutions.
With the dawn of the 28th, the wind lulled, and our canvas was again
spread to a three knot breeze. At noon we took our first observation,
and at evening passed a ship, although not within speaking distance. The
dawn of the 29th is accompanied by a seven-knot breeze, and we stand
away on our course with all sail set. At 3 P.M., we were saluted by a
whale, and at 4 entered the Gulf Stream. We here first observe luminous
substances in the water, which at night appear like an ocean of fire.
During the night it blew a gale, and we ran under double-reefed
topsails, with mainsail furled. 30th. Leave the Gulf Stream, the wind
blowing a terrific gale. We are tossed about on mountainous waves, and
all sick. 31st. All sail set, and running six knots; dolphins and
porpoises playing about the ship. We are again saluted by a whale.
1st Feb. Pleasant; all appear at table; enter the trade winds; hoist
studding-sails; lovely day; 4, P.M., mate catches a dolphin, and brings
him on deck. 2d. Calm summer day. 3d. All on deck; extremely pleasant.
4th. Sunday; pleasant; pass a ship; fine breeze; throw the log; are
running eight knots. 5th. Pass through schools of flying-fish, one of
which flies on board. We enter the tropic of Cancer. A flock of black
heron are flying through the air; we take an observation; are eighty
miles from Caycos and Turk’s Island; making for the Caycos passage. 7th.
5, P.M. The captain discovers land from the mast-head, and we are
cheered with the cry of “Land, Ho!” We pass around Caycos Island, and
through the passage; and on the morning of the 8th, are in sight of St.
Domingo, sixty miles distant. It looms up from the horizon like a heavy
black cloud. 9th. Pass the island of Cuba, and on the 10th enter the
Caribbean Sea. We passed near the island of Nevassa, a small rocky
island, inhabited only by sea-fowl. They mistaking our vessel for a fowl
of a larger species, came off in flocks, until our rigging was filled,
and the sun almost obscured. They met with a _foul_ reception. There
were eighty passengers on board, all armed. They could not resist the
temptation, but wantonly mutilated the unsuspecting birds, many of which
expiated with their lives the crime of confiding in strangers. One would
receive a charge of shot, with which it would fly back to the island,
uttering the most unharmonious screeches, when a new deputation would
set off for us, many of them destined to return to the island in the
same musical mood. Fortunately, we were driven along by the breeze, and
they returned to their homes, and have, no doubt, spent many an evening
around the family hearth, speculating upon the peculiar sensations
experienced on that occasion. The enthusiasm of the passengers did not
immediately subside, but they spent the afternoon in shooting at
targets.
11th. Thermometer standing at 80°. We are carried along with a
three-knot breeze; our ship bowing gracefully to the undulations of the
sea. It being Sunday, home presents itself vividly to our imagination.
13th. Standing in for the coast of New Grenada; at 6 P.M., the captain
cries out from the mast-head, “Land Ho!” We shorten sail, and on the
morning of the 14th are standing in for the port of Chagres.
A most beautiful scene is spread out before us; we are making directly
for the mouth of the river, the left point of the entrance being a bold,
rocky promontory, surmounted by fortifications. (See Plate). The coast
to the left is bold and rocky, extending a distance of five miles, and
terminating in a rocky promontory, one of the points to the entrance of
Navy Bay, the anticipated terminus of the Panama railroad. The coast to
the right is low, stretching away as far as the eye can reach. In the
background is a succession of elevations, terminating in mountains of
considerable height, the valleys, as well as the crests of the hills,
being covered with a most luxuriant growth of vegetation, together with
the palm, cocoa-nut, and other tropical trees of the most gigantic size.
As we neared the port, we passed around the steamer Falcon, which had
just come to anchor, and passing on to within half a mile of the mouth
of the river, we rounded to, and let go our anchor.
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS, III NASSAU St. N. Y.
CHAGRES FROM THE ANCHORAGE.
Feb. 14th 1849.]
Chapter Second.
NATIVES AND “BUNGOES”--CRESCENT CITY ARRIVES--WE SAIL INTO THE
MOUTH OF THE RIVER--PREPARE FOR A FIGHT--FASHIONS AND
FORTIFICATIONS--AN HONEST ALCALDE--NON-FULFILLMENT OF CONTRACTS.
Our attention was first attracted to the natives who were rowing off to
us in “bungoes,” or canoes of immense size, each manned by eight, ten,
or twelve natives, apparently in a state of nudity. Their manner of
propelling their craft was as novel as their appearance was ludicrous.
They rise simultaneously, stepping up on a high seat, and, uttering a
peculiar cry, throw themselves back on their oars, and resume their
former seats. This is done with as much uniformity as if they were an
entire piece of machinery. In the afternoon the Crescent City came to
anchor, together with several sailing vessels, bringing, in all, about
one thousand passengers.
We remained outside until the 17th, when we weighed anchor and passed
into the mouth, making fast to the right bank, now called the American
side of the river. We found an abundance of water in the channel, but at
the entrance several dangerous rocks. As this coast is subject to severe
northers, it is an extremely difficult port to make. The steamers still
anchor some two miles out. We found several vessels near the mouth,
beached and filled.
It was amusing to see the passengers preparing to make their advent on
land. It is well understood that no one started for California without
being thoroughly fortified, and as we had arrived at a place, where, as
we thought, there must be, at least, _some_ fighting to do, our first
attention was directed to our _armor_. The revolvers, each man having at
least two, were first overhauled, and the six barrels charged. These
were put in our belt, which also contained a bowie knife. A brace of
smaller pistols are snugly pocketed inside our vest; our rifles are
liberally charged; and with a cane in hand, (which of course contains a
dirk), and a _slung shot_ in our pockets, we step off and look around
for the enemy.
We crossed the river to Chagres, which consists of about thirty huts
constructed of reeds, and thatched with palm-leaves, the inhabitants,
the most squalid set of beings imaginable. They are all good Catholics,
but do not go to the Bible for the fashions. There are fig-leaves in
abundance, yet they are considered by the inhabitants quite superfluous,
they preferring the garments that nature gave them, sometimes, however,
adding a Panama hat.
We visited the fortifications, which were in a dilapidated state, the
walls fast falling to decay. The only sentinels at the time of our
visit, were three goats and two children. (See Plate.) It has a
commanding position, and has been a work of much strength, but the guns
are now dismounted, and the inhabitants ignorant of their use. In
returning from the fort, we crossed a stream where a party of _ladies_
were undressing for a bath, i. e., they were taking off their hats. We
passed on, and after viewing the “lions,” returned to our vessel, not
very favorably impressed with the manners or customs of the town.
We had contracted with the Alcalde for canoes to carry us up the river.
The steamboat Orus, then plying on the river, having contracted to take
up the Falcon’s passengers, had offered an advanced price, and secured
all the canoes, including ours. Our Alcalde had been struck down to the
highest bidder, and I will here say that, although many charges have
been brought against the New Grenadians, they have never been accused of
fulfilling a contract, especially if they could make a “_real_” by
breaking it. We did not relish the idea of remaining until the canoes
returned, as Chagres had the name, (and it undoubtedly deserved it,) of
being the most unhealthy place in Christendom. Many of our passengers
had their lives insured before starting, and there was a clause in each
policy, that remaining at Chagres over night would be a forfeiture.
The trunks of the steamers’ passengers, particularly those of the
Crescent City, were landed on the bank of the river, while their owners
were endeavoring to secure passage up. The
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU St. N. Y.
INTERIOR OF THE CASTLE,
_AT CHAGRES_.]
“bungoes” had all gone up with the Orus. There were left two or three
small canoes, and the scenes of competition around these were exciting,
and often ludicrous in the extreme. Now a man would contract for passage
for himself and friend, and while absent to arrange some little matter
preparatory to a start, some one would offer the worthy _Padrone_
(captain) a higher price, when he would immediately put the trunks of
the first two on shore, and take on board those of the latter, together
with their owners, and shove out into the stream. Now the first two
would appear, with hands filled with refreshments for the voyage, and
begin to look around for their boat. In a moment their eyes fall upon
their trunks, and the truth flashes across their imagination. Now the
scene of excitement begins. The boat is ordered to the shore, it don’t
come, and they attempt to wade out to it. The first step convinces them
of the impracticability of this expedient, as they sink into the mud to
their necks. Revolvers are flourished, but they can be used by both
parties, consequently are not used at all.
Chapter Third.
FIRST ATTEMPT AT BOAT BUILDING--EXCITEMENT “ON ’CHANGE”--A LAUNCH
AND CLEARANCE--THE CREW--A MUTINY--QUELLED--POOR ACCOMMODATIONS--A
NIGHT IN ANGER--AN ANTHEM TO THE SUN--NATURE IN FULL DRESS.
We saw but one alternative, which was, to construct a boat ourselves,
and work it up the river. Upon this we decided, and purchasing the
temporary berths of our vessel, soon had a boat on the stocks, 6 feet by
19, and in three days it was afloat at the side of the “Marietta,”
receiving its freight. We called it the “_Minerva_,” and she was
probably the first American-bottom ever launched at this port. A
misfortune here befel me which I will relate somewhat minutely, as it
was undoubtedly the cause of the death of a party concerned. In going
out one morning to assist in the construction of the boat, I left my
vest, which had a sum of money sewed up in the upper side pocket, in my
berth, covered in such a manner I thought no one could discover it. I
did not give it a thought during the day, but on going to my berth in
the evening, I noticed the covering had been disturbed, and as my
room-mates were in the habit of helping themselves to prunes, from a box
in my berth, I imagined they had discovered and taken care of it. I was
the more strongly impressed that this was the case from the fact that
they had frequently spoken of my carelessness. I immediately saw them;
they had seen nothing of it. Watches were stationed and the ship
searched, but no trace of the money. A person who had had access to the
cabin on that day for the first time was strongly suspected, but no
trace of the money found. Our suspicions, however, were well founded, as
the sequel will show. The passengers very kindly offered to make up a
part of the loss, but as I had a little left I most respectfully
declined its acceptance. We had about 3000 lbs. of freight and nine
persons,
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
LITH. OF G. W. LEWIS III NASSAU ST. N. Y.
ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER CHAGRES.]
and at 2 P.M., 22d Feb., gave the word, “let go,” run up our sail, and
as it was blowing a stiff breeze from the ocean, glided rapidly along up
the river, our worthy captain, Dennison, and his accomplished mate, Wm.
Bliss, of the “Marietta,” calling all hands on deck, and giving us three
times three as we parted, to which _adios_ we responded with feeling
hearts. Now, as there is a straight run of three miles, a fair wind, and
nothing to do but attend to our sail and tiller, we will take a survey
of craft and crew. We are freighted with trunks, shovels, pick-axes,
India-rubber bags, smoked ham, rifles, camp-kettles, hard-bread, swords
and cheese. Our crew, commencing at the tallest, (we had no first
officer,) consisted of two brothers, Dodge, young men of intelligence
and enterprise; the eldest a man of the most indomitable perseverance,
the younger of the most unbounded good humor, both calculated to make
friends wherever they go, and to ride over difficulties without a
murmur. They had associated with them three Germans, Shultz, Eiswald,
and Hush. Shultz was a young man of energy, fond of music, a good
singer, gentlemanly and companionable; Eiswald, full of humor and mirth,
extracting pleasure from every incident, always at his post, a fine
companion and good navigator; Hush, was a small man, with exceedingly
large feet; he appeared to be entirely out of his element; he was
disposed to do all he could, but his limbs would not obey him; his arms
appeared to be mismated; his legs, when set in motion, would each take
an opposite direction, and his feet were everywhere, except where he
wanted to have them. We were quite safe when he was still, but when set
in motion we found him a dangerous companion. Mr. Russ, a young lawyer
of New York, Mr. Cooper, an artist, also of New York, a man of energy,
perseverance and genius, and one of the most efficient men of the party.
Mr. Beaty, an elderly man, extremely tall and slender, and very moral
and exemplary in his habits; being in feeble health, he was to act as
cook for the voyage. Ninthly and lastly, myself, an extremely choleric
young man, of whom delicacy forbids me to say more.
We have now arrived at the bend of the river, and as here is a spring of
excellent water, we make fast and fill our water-keg. Water is obtained
here for the vessels in port, by sending up small boats. It can be
obtained in any quantity, and a more lovely place cannot well be
conceived of. After adjusting our baggage preparatory to manning our
oars, we again shoved out into the stream. We manned four oars,
consequently kept a reserve. We were all fresh and vigorous, and, being
much elated with the novelty of our voyage, resolved to work the boat
all night. It was already quite dark, but with the aid of a lamp we kept
on our course. The river here was walled up on either side by gigantic
trees, their branches interchanging over our heads, almost shutting out
the stars. Sometimes the branches stretching out but little above the
surface of the river, were filled with water fowls, the white heron
presenting a strange and most striking appearance. They would start with
fright at our approach, striking wildly in the dark with their wings;
some would find secure resting-places on the more elevated branches,
while others would settle down through the dense foliage to the margin
of the river. Innumerable bats, attracted by our light, were flitting
along the surface of the river, but aside from these all nature appeared
to be hushed in sleep.
We moved along with much spirit until about eleven o’clock, when there
were symptoms of disaffection. Some were weary, others sleepy; some
declared they would work no longer, others that the boat should not
stop. We had all the premonitory symptoms of a mutiny. It was suggested
that we should uncork a bottle of brandy, which was accordingly done,
and it was soon _unanimously_ declared that our prospects had never
appeared so flattering. I am _sure_ our boat was never propelled with
such energy. I am not prepared to say that the brandy _didn’t_ have an
influence. We moved along rapidly for an hour when we had a relapse of
the same disaffection. We resolved to stop; but we were in a dilemma. We
had left home under the impression that the Chagres river was _governed_
by alligators and anacondas, assisted by all the venomous reptiles in
the “whole dire catalogue,” consequently, to run to the shore was to run
right into the jaws of death, which we did not care to do at this
particular time. We pulled along until we came in contact with a limb,
which stretched out over the surface of the river, to which we made
fast. After detailing two of the party as a watch, we stowed ourselves
away as best we could. I was in a half-sitting posture--my feet hanging
outside the boat, my back coming in contact with the chime of our
water-keg. I tried for some time to sleep, but in vain. I tried to
persuade myself that I was at home in a comfortable bed, just falling
into a doze, but my back was not to be deceived in that way; and after
spending two hours in my uncomfortable position, I got up. I found that
my companions had been as badly lodged as myself, and all as anxious to
man the oars. We were soon under way, and soon the approaching day was
proclaimed by the incessant howl of the animal creation, including the
tiger, leopard, cougar, monkeys, &c., &c., accompanied by innumerable
parrots and other tropical birds. All nature seemed to be in motion. The
scene is indelibly impressed upon my memory. The trees on the margin of
the river were of immense size, clothed to their tops with
morning-glories and other flowers of every conceivable hue, their
tendrils stooping down, kissing the placid bosom of the river. Birds of
the most brilliant plumage were flying through the air, in transports of
joy. All nature seemed to hail the sun with bursts of rapture.
Everything appeared to me so new and strange. My transition from a
northern winter to this delightful climate, seemed like magic, and
appeared like a scene of enchantment, like the dawning of a new
creation.
Chapter Fourth.
BREAKFAST--PRIMITIVE MODE OF LIFE--MEET THE “ORUS”--MUTINY AND
RAIN--A STEP BACKWARDS--ENCAMPMENT--A “FORTIFIED” AND FRIGHTENED
INDIVIDUAL--SPORTING--MOSQUITOS.
We moved along until the sun had ascended the horizon, when we made fast
to the shore and took breakfast. Being somewhat fatigued, we remained
until after dinner. We were visited here by two native men and a little
boy, all dressed in black, the suits that nature gave them. They were
cutting poles with big knives or machets; they had brought their dinner
with them, which consisted of a piece of sugar-cane, a foot in length.
We again manned our oars and worked our boat until about sunset, when we
drew along shore at a pleasant point designing to encamp. Some of the
party were anxious to gain a higher point on the river, and we again
pushed out. As we were gaining the middle of the stream, a canoe turned
the point containing two boys; they immediately cried out, “vapor!
vapor!” (steamboat, steamboat,) and before we could reach the shore, the
“Orus” came dashing around the point, throwing her swell over the sides
of our boat, and we were near being swamped. This caused great
consternation and excitement, which soon subsided, and we were again
under way. We were, however, destined not to end our day’s journey,
without additional difficulties. We worked an hour without finding a
suitable place to spend the night. Those having proposed stopping below,
now strongly demurred to going on, and after an _eloquent_ and
_spirited_ discussion, it was decided by a majority vote, that we should
run back. It commenced to rain about this time, and we returned in not
the most amiable mood.
We erected an india rubber tent on shore and, laying our masts fore and
aft, threw our sail over it as a protection to the boat; and, after
supper, detailed our watch, when another attempt was made to sleep. Mr.
Hush and myself, were on the first watch. I took my station in the boat,
but there being a strange commotion in the water, and the sides of the
boat not being very high, Mr. H. preferred the shore. He armed himself
with a brace of revolvers, and one of horse pistols, a bowie-knife, a
large German rifle and broad sword, and stepped on shore. The night was
extremely quiet, and at ten o’clock it ceased to rain. Nothing was heard
except the peculiar whistle of a bird, which much resembled that of a
school boy. The river, however, was in a constant agitation, which we
presumed to be caused by alligators rushing into schools of fish.
At 12, Mr. H. thought he heard a strange noise in the forest,
approaching the encampment, and in a few minutes uttering a most
unearthly yell, he jumped for the boat. His feet hanging a little “too
low on the edge,” caught under a root, and he brought up in the river.
This being full of alligators, only added to his fright, and the precise
time it took him to get out, I am unable to say.
The morning was again hailed by universal acclamation, and after an
early breakfast we resumed our voyage. We had a pleasant run during the
day, stopping frequently to secure pheasants, pigeons, toucans, parrots,
&c. The latter are not very palatable, but we were not disposed to be
fastidious, and every thing we shot, except alligators, went into the
camp-kettle. Late in the afternoon we met a bungo, the natives pointing
to a tree, the top of which was filled with wild turkeys. We pulled
along under the tree, discharged a volley, and succeeded in frightening
them to another. Having a carbine charged with shot, I brought one to
the ground. I climbed up the bank, but found the forest impenetrable.
The under growth was a dense chaparal, interlaced with vines, every
shrub and tree armed with thorns. I, however, with my _machet_, reached
the turkey. There being a sandy beach near, we resolved to encamp for
the night; and while we were pitching our tent, Mr. B. dressed and
cooked our turkey.
We were here attacked by the most ravenous swarm of musquitos it was
ever my lot to encounter. We had promised ourselves a comfortable
night’s rest, but it was like most of the promises one makes himself. We
entered the campaign with the greatest zeal; but before morning, would
have been glad to capitulate on any terms. The morning dawned as it only
dawns within the tropics. Being Sunday we resolved to rest, and called
our place of encampment, Point Domingo.
Chapter Fifth.
FIRST RAPID--AN UNFORTUNATE INDIVIDUAL--A STEP BACKWARDS--SEVERAL
INDIVIDUALS IN A STATE OF EXCITEMENT--TIN PANS NOT EXACTLY THE
THING--A BREAKFAST EXTINGUISHED--SPORTING--MONKEY AMUSEMENTS--A
“FLASH IN THE PAN”--TWO FEET IN OUR PROVISION BASKET--POVERTY OF
THE INHABITANTS AND THEIR DOGS--ARRIVAL AT GORGONA.
Monday morning, having an early breakfast, we were again under way. We
shot several alligators, and at 10, A.M., arrived at the first rapid. We
uncorked a bottle of brandy and prepared for hard work. As Mr. Hush did
not help work the boat, (_it was not safe to give him a pole_) it was
suggested that he should walk. We commenced the ascent, and after an
hour of hard labor, gained the summit. We drew up along shore, and Mr.
H. attempted to jump on board. His feet, as usual, taking the wrong
direction, he stumbled and caught hold of an India rubber bag for
support, which not being securely fastened, went overboard. The current
being strong it passed rapidly down, and there was no alternative but to
follow it with the boat. We soon found ourselves going with the greatest
velocity, down the rapid we had just toiled so hard to ascend. We
overtook the bag at the foot, and making fast to the shore, we held a
_very animated_ colloquy, which was embellished with an occasional oath
by way of emphasis. Mr. H. suspected that he was the subject of our
animadversions, but there was _nothing said_.
We again ascended the rapid, and worked on until rain and night overtook
us. We were obliged to encamp on an unpleasant rocky shore, and cook
supper in the rain. We passed an uncomfortable night; and in the morning
it was still raining in torrents. We were furnished with India rubber
_ponchos_ and were making preparations to start while Mr. Cooper and Mr.
Beaty were preparing breakfast. It was difficult to get fuel, and still
more difficult to make it burn. They however succeeded in kindling the
fire. We usually boiled our coffee-water in the camp-kettle, but this
being full of game, we filled a large tin pan with water, and placed it
over the fire, supported by three stones. The ham was frying briskly by
the fire, our chocolate dissolving, and every thing going on
_swimmingly_, when one of the stones turned, capsizing the tin pan,
putting out every particle of fire, and filling the chocolate and ham
with ashes. (See plate.) Mr. Cooper was frantic with rage, doffing his
hat, throwing the ham into the river, kicking over the chocolate cup,
cursing every thing in general, and tin pans in particular, while Mr.
Beaty, with a most rueful countenance, clasped his hands, exclaiming,
“Oh! my!!!”
Mr. Dodge came to the rescue, and we had a warm breakfast, and were soon
under way. At ten, the sun came out, and we had a pleasant run, using
our sail. We encamped in a delightful place on the left bank of the
river, and had a comfortable night’s rest. When we awoke in the morning,
the air was filled with parrots, toucans, tropical pheasants, etc. Our
guns were immediately brought into requisition, and we soon procured a
full supply, including seven pheasants. One of the party and myself
finding a path that had been beaten by wild beasts resolved to follow
it, and penetrate more deeply into the forest. After going some distance
we heard a strange noise, which induced my companion to return. Being
well armed I proceeded on, and soon came upon a party of monkeys taking
their morning exercise. There were about twenty of them, in the top of a
large tree. The larger ones would take the smaller and pretend they were
about to throw them off; the little ones, in the mean time, struggling
for life. There was one very large one, with a white face, who appeared
to be doing the honors of the occasion, viz., laughing when the little
ones were frightened. If I had been within speaking distance of _his
honor_, I would have informed him that his uncouth laugh had diminished
the audience on the present occasion by at least one half. I did not
break in upon their sports, but, following the path, soon found myself
at a bend of the river.
A native was passing, who informed me that there were turkeys on the
other side. I stepped into his canoe, and in a
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS III, NASSAU ST. N.Y.
PREPARING BREAKFAST
_on the Chagres River_.]
moment we were climbing the opposite bank. When within shooting distance
I raised my gun; it missed fire, and the turkeys flew away, the native
exclaiming “_mucho malo_.” We recrossed, and I soon reached the
encampment. Our game was cooked, and the party ready to embark. We
shoved out, but, unfortunately, Hush had forgotten his bowie knife. We
floated back, he ascended the bank, and succeeded in finding it. In
returning, he found it difficult to reach the boat; the bank being quite
abrupt, he, however, determined to jump, and, after making a few
peculiar gyrations with his arms, he _did_ jump, and landed both feet in
our provision basket, breaking several bottles, and in his effort to
extricate himself kicked the basket overboard. He would have followed
it, had it not been for timely assistance.
The day was excessively hot, the river rapid, and our progress slow. In
the after part of the day, we passed a rancho where there were a few
hills of corn, the first sign of industry we had seen along the river.
One can hardly conceive of a country susceptible of a higher
cultivation. They have a perpetual summer; tropical fruits grow
spontaneously; they have the finest bottom lands for rice, tobacco,
cotton, corn, or sugar plantations perhaps on this continent; yet, with
the exception of a very little corn and sugar, nothing is cultivated.
The enterprise of the States would make the country a paradise.