to the number of her possessions, she entrusted the execution of her
designs to the most able marine officers, such as Behring, Tchirikoff,
Levacheff, and others equally celebrated. Some fitted out their vessels
at Okotsk, and others sailed from the port of Avatscha, or Saint Peter
and St. Paul, at the point of Kamtschatka; all were eager to traverse
the vast archipelago that opened before them; all proceeded from one
discovery in pursuit of another. Copper island, Behring island, the
Aleutienne and Fox islands, were found in turns, and new tributes
enriched the royal treasury. Having wandered a long time over the
seas, these happy Argonauts reached the coast of America. A peninsula
(that of Alaxa) presented itself to their view; having landed, they
understood that it formed a part of the main continent; every thing
indicated that it was the new quarter of the world, and full of joy,
they sailed back to their country.
Scarcely had they given an account of the success of their voyage,
proved by the useful observations they made, when the views of commerce
were eagerly directed towards a region that offered inexhaustible
resources. Russian factories were established at Alaxa[55], and
the immense profit accruing to them has, in spite of the distance,
supported ever since between the factors and their principals, the
strictest correspondence. The following is the mode of traffic adopted
at Okotsk, whence a number of vessels sail every year for America.
When a merchant has resolved to make this voyage, either in person
or by means of one of his agents, he asks the consent of the governor,
which is seldom refused. The cargo is divided into shares, and every
person is at liberty to purchase. The shares amount only to the sum
necessary to defray the expences of fitting out, and purchasing the
articles of merchandise, which consist of stuffs, iron utensils, glass
trinkets, handkerchiefs, brandy, tobacco, and other things held in
estimation by savages. The officers and sailors have no wages, but are
allowed a part of the cargo, which is called _paï_. The voyage lasts
three, four, or six years; and from a spirit of avarice, the vessel
is conducted to such places as are the least frequented, and even new
discoveries are attempted[56].
Upon their return, these ships undergo a strict search. The owners pay
duties to government, regulated by the nature of their cargoes, and
estimated by the bills of lading. An appraisement is then made of the
remainder, which is divided into equal portions: each owner receives
either in kind or in money the amount of his capital, (allowing for
freightage, and loss) and his share in the profits, if any have
accrued. It will readily be perceived that it is chance alone in a
manner that decides upon the quantum of dividend or deficit. In fine,
part of the goods are sold at Okotsk, and part transported to Yakoutsk,
from thence to Irkoutsk, and last of all to Kiakhta, where the Chinese
are the established purchasers.
The mode of government is equally entitled to attention. During my
abode in the peninsula, the tribunals of which, as I have already
observed, hold from those of Okotsk, I obtained the fullest information
on this subject[57]. I had only therefore to consider more attentively
the discipline of the garrison, and the police of the town, which
equally astonished me.
I expected to see, as it formerly was, a licentious soldiery; that
is, a band of ferocious Cossacs, robbers by nature, and ignorant of
every law but their caprice or interest. Not a day passed without some
of them deserting with arms and baggage, and frequently the magazines
were pillaged by this audacious troop. It was to no purpose that the
representatives of the sovereign practiced severity to put a stop
to these desertions and plunderings; it was to no purpose that all
the criminals, whom it was possible to apprehend, were subjected to
the _battogues_, or gantlet, and other punishments practiced in the
Russian army. These desperadoes were so hardened to stripes, or so
incorrigible, that they incurred the next day new penalties; nor could
the severest punishment restrain them, or deter others. At present
however the garrison is subjected to a still severer discipline, and
instances of disobedience are more rare. Great praise is due to the
reformers, whose perseverance and ability have operated such good
effects.
Equal attention has been paid to the department of the police, which
it was no easy task to establish in a town that has a considerable
number of exiles among its inhabitants. The majority bear the indelible
marks with which the hand of justice has branded their guilty heads,
and the rest, condemned to the gallies, meditate incessantly during
their labours in the port, how to break their chains with impunity.
Sometimes escapes are effected, and woe to those places where these
culprits betake themselves! But the continual vigilance of the governor
does not long permit them to enjoy this fatal liberty; they are soon
apprehended and punished, and by being loaded with heavier chains, all
fears for the public safety are removed. The conduct of M. Kokh on
this occasion struck me as equally prudent and determined; to a spirit
of moderation, which forms the essence of his character, the utmost
inflexibility is united.
The Lamouts, the Toungouses, and the Yakouts, fail not also to find
employment for administration, either by the complaints which they
occasion, or by their frequent insurrections, particularly at the
time of levying taxes. This department is intrusted to the care of M.
Loftsoff, inspector general, who, by his activity and prudence, has the
art of appeasing the tumults, accommodating the disputes, and executing
without violence the decrees of his sovereign. I had an opportunity of
judging how perfectly satisfied all parties were with his conduct.
Such was the prosperous situation in which I found this branch of the
general government. May the testimony which I am desirous of giving
in its favour, be contrasted with the first accounts, and guard the
reader against the disadvantageous prejudices, which a view of the
former defective government is calculated to inspire. The new governors
are at least intitled to this justice, that if abuses still prevail,
they exert themselves without intermission to put a stop to them, in
proportion as such abuses become known.
A report lately prevailed, I know not from what authority, that there
was an intention of removing the inhabitants of Okotsk, either to
Oudskoi, or some neighbouring settlement. If the court have really
such a project in view, it must have felt, I should suppose, the
necessity of having a more considerable town in this quarter, and that
convenience, extent, and security, will determine its choice of a new
port.
I have promised the reader some account of the commission of M.
Billings. I have already observed, that he has two ships building in
the dock of Okotsk, but I should be considerably at a loss to say what
is their destination. It is not possible to penetrate the mystery;
and all I know is, that M. Billings, from his reputation, and the
abilities he displayed in one of the voyages of captain Cook, who was
his countryman, has been invited into Russia, and, with the rank of
captain, appointed to command a secret expedition, the object of which
is supposed to be that of discovery. The powers accorded to him seem
to be boundless; and materials, workmen, sailors, every requisite, in
short, have been supplied by the court.
For the sake of dispatch, M. Billings had divided his men, and sent
a part of them to Okotsk under the superintendance of M. Hall, his
lieutenant, to construct two vessels, while he himself made, with
the remainder, for the Frozen Ocean, in stout sloops and other ships
hastily built in the river Kolumé.
The end of this first expedition is as yet a secret, and various
conjectures are formed respecting it. The most intelligent persons
agreed in supposing that he was to make the circuit of this part of
Asia, to double cape Svetoï, and endeavour to return to Okotsk by
the sea of Kamtschatka. If such were his project, it is probable
that he met with some insurmountable obstacles in its execution, as
he returned, after three months navigation, to the river Kolumé, and
sailed from thence for Yakoutsk.
The armament under the direction of M. Hall had been suspended for a
considerable part of the winter, but was revived and carried on with
vigour during my abode at Okotsk. The hull of one vessel was already
finished, and the keel of another laid in the dock. The ropemakers,
blacksmiths, carpenters, sailmakers, caulkers[58], had separate
workshops. The continual presence of the superintending officers
animated the zeal of the workmen. Notwithstanding this diligence on all
sides, to which I was a witness, I doubt whether these ships will be
fit for sea these two years.
The river Okhota had always been disencumbered of its ice before 20
May; to the great astonishment of the inhabitants it did not begin
to float this year till the 26 in the afternoon. It was a spectacle
for the town, and I was invited as to a party of pleasure; but from
the idea that it must be similar to what I had seen at Petersburg, I
discovered little inclination or curiosity. Importuned however upon the
subject, I went to the river. The crowd was already assembled, and I
was immediately assailed on every side by the unanimous vociferations
of those about me, who exclaimed in full chorus at sight of the
enormous sheets of ice which were lifted up by the rapidity of the
current. The noise of some seemed to drown that of others, and the
multitude flocked together without end. The next moment loud groans
struck my ears. I endeavoured to discover whence these cries proceeded,
and I saw a number of men and women running like so many persons in
despair along the bank. I approached with trepidation, persuaded that
some unfortunate child was in danger of being drowned; but I soon
discovered my error.
A troop of about a dozen dogs was the cause of this lamentation.
Their masters, either from avarice or compassion, bewailed in concert
the fate of these poor animals, whose loss seemed inevitable. Seated
tranquilly on the ice that supported them, they looked with an air of
astonishment at the crowd collected upon the bank, whose clamours and
signs could not move them from their posture. Two only had the instinct
to attempt to save themselves, and gained with difficulty the opposite
side; the rest were out of sight in a few minutes, and, conveyed into
the main ocean, must there infallibly have perished.
These dogs were the only victims of the breaking up of the ice; but
its effects have been sometimes so terrible, as to have occasioned the
removal of all the houses[59] near the river. The scattered ruins bear
witness that many of them have been overturned by this fatal event, and
I was informed, that in the course of some years, nearly a fourth part
of the town had been destroyed by it.
The inhabitants wait with impatience for the period when the river
shall regain its natural state; it is time that the fishing season
should commence, and relieve them from the famine that begins to
prevail. The stock of fish procured in the preceding summer had
been scanty, and was nearly exhausted. The supply of meal was also
considerably diminished, and what remained was so dear that the common
people were unable to purchase. The humanity of M. Kokh signalised
itself on this occasion. There was a reserve of rye flour in the stores
belonging to government, and he distributed it among the indigent class
of the inhabitants. This afforded them some relief, but it was not of
long duration. M. Kokh, who received a number of persons at his table,
was reduced to the necessity of having recourse to a few eatables which
he had laid by in the preceding year. At last we had nothing to eat but
beef dried in the sun. To get a supply of fresh provisions, the major
sent out a party to hunt deer and argali, but they had only once the
good fortune to be successful.
The thaw being ended, he ordered the seine to be immediately used. I
was present with a large party, and the spectacle was much superior, in
my opinion, to that to which I had before been invited. It is not easy
to express the pleasure, the transport of the multitude of spectators
upon the first cast of the net. A prodigious quantity of small fish,
like smelts and herrings, were caught, and the joy and clamour
redoubled at the sight. The most famished were first served, and the
whole produce of this fortunate beginning given up to them. I could
not restrain my tears on perceiving the ravenousness of these poor
creatures; whole families contended for the fish, which were devoured
raw before my eyes.
To these fishing enterprises, which became more successful every day
from salmon[60], and other large fish coming up the river, succeeded
the diversion of hunting water fowl[61], which were so abundant as to
cover the surface of the water: this was a new means of subsistance for
the inhabitants.
In the mean time the season advanced, and in spite of the frequent
fogs, we had now and then some fine days. They were the more
acceptable, as the snow had fallen during the night of the 29 two
inches deep, and the cold was so severe as to be one degree below zero.
The waters gradually abated, but there was no appearance of vegetation.
Some blades of rotten grass, the melancholy fruit of the last efforts
of Nature at the close of autumn, was the only nourishment that the
earth afforded to the horses, till the return of the genial influence
of spring.
I was already anxious to be gone, and though I could not deceive
myself respecting the miserable state of these animals, I intreated M.
Kokh to order such as had been appointed for my use to be collected,
resolving to leave Okotsk 6 June at latest. His orders were punctually
executed; and thanks to his cares, to the kindness of Mrs. Kasloff, and
the liberality of a number of friends, whom I left in this settlement,
I found myself all at once amply provided with bread and biscuit. Had
it not been for the recollection of the famine, I should have felt
myself flattered by these presents; but the idea that I was to support
myself with the sacrifices of friendship, hurt my feelings, and it
was not without considerable pain that I was obliged to keep what no
refusals could induce them to take back.
The evening preceding my departure was devoted to taking leave. I had
the pleasure to learn that M. Loftsoff intended to accompany me to
Moundoukann, and that lieutenant Hall, called to that place by some
affairs relative to the armament under his care, was to go with us.
I had little expected a third companion, doubly dear to me, but M.
Allegretti informed me, that he had prepared every thing to conduct
me as far as the cross of Yudoma. How great were my surprise and
gratitude, when I understood that personal attachment was the sole
motive of his journey! Of my two soldiers, Golikoff only attended me;
Nedarezoff staid at Okotsk, but I took his father to serve me as pilot
on the river Yudoma. A number of workmen, as I had agreed with the
major, were to set out immediately after me, to repair the boats, which
would be found unfit for service, that I might not be exposed to new
dangers or new delays.
All my preparations being completed, I tore myself from the arms of M.
Kokh. A number of inhabitants did me the honour to attend me to the
gates of the town, where our horses waited for us, and where, after
mutual reiterations of good wishes, we separated: my hosts carried with
them, I trust, the conviction, that they had not entertained a man
insensible to obligation.
At sight of the horse I was to mount, I drew back with horror and
compassion. I had never seen so wretched an animal. His sides were lank
and hollow, his buttocks narrow and peaked, so that you might count
every bone they contained, his neck unsupported, his head between his
legs, his haunches nerveless and weak. Such is the exact description
of my steed. You may judge of the figure of the other horses, among
which mine passed for one of the least despicable. The saddle had a
considerable resemblance to our own. Those which were provided for our
baggage were smaller, made of wood, and perforated with holes; upon the
top there were two sticks fastened cross-wise on which the load[62] was
suspended, taking care however to make the weight equal on both sides,
as the smallest disproportion would infallibly have prevented the
beasts from maintaining their equilibrium.
It was in this pitiful plight that our caravan sat out. To console
ourselves for the slow pace we travelled, each was merry at the expence
of his steed. Twelve wersts from Okotik, a tolerably large salt work
was pointed out to me on the sea coast; the men employed in it were all
malefactors or convicts. Beyond this house we left the sea at our left,
and travelled for some time on the banks of the Okhota.
If the breaking up of this river occasion such alarm to the
inhabitants of the town, its overflowings are not less fatal to the
environs. Rising above the banks, the water not only floods the
adjacent country, but becomes a torrent, that swells as it extends
itself. It has been said to rise two feet above the tops of the highest
trees. From this account one may suppose its ravages to be dreadful,
and certain it is that I saw in the forests gulfs of an astonishing
depth, said to be the work of these floods.
Within a short distance from Medvejé-golova, my horse fell under me,
and it was impossible to make him get up again; I had fortunately time
to quit the saddle, and received therefore no injury. We left the beast
on the spot[63], where it doubtless expired a few hours after. We had
still eleven horses remaining; I was therefore remounted in an instant,
and reached the village without meeting with any other accident.
We proceeded the next day, at nine o’clock in the morning, and forded
the river Okhota, the course of which we were no longer to pursue. I
perceived here and there some Yakout yourts at a considerable distance
from each other: seldom are any number of them seen together.
The disposition of these families to live in this isolated manner,
results from a motive of interest that is of the first importance.
Horses being their chief source of wealth, if the proprietors (some of
whom possess more than a thousand) built their habitations nearer to
each other, how would they be able to procure nourishment for their
numerous studs? The neighbouring pastures must soon be exhausted, and
it would be necessary to send multitudes of them to a considerable
distance; but how many inconveniences would result in consequence of
the negligence or dishonesty of the keepers.
Arrived at Moundoukann, our horses were so fatigued that we passed the
night there and all the next day, which was 8 June. I have already
observed that this village is twenty wersts from Medjevé-golova; it
gives its name to a river on which it is situated.
At break of day I separated from M. Hall and M. Loftsoff, who were to
stay in this place. I first climbed a high mountain called _Ourak_, the
summit of which was still covered with snow; it reached to the bellies
of our horses, who suffered extremely in this passage.
A river of the same name runs at the foot of the mountain. It is wide,
deep, and rapid; and on its bank is a yourt inhabited by watermen. They
were at this time all absent, probably a hunting, as their open house
indicated that they had not long been departed.
Tired of calling and waiting for them, we launched the least defective
of the boats that were fastened on the bank, and after searching about
we found some oars. We unloaded and unsaddled the horses, and placed
the baggage in the boat, which in turn conveyed us to the other side.
Our steeds still remained, and I trembled lest they should not be able
to swim across. The security of my Yakouts in this respect appeared to
me unaccountable; by dint of whipping them, they forced them into the
water; the boat went before to guide them, and one of our conductors
was left on the bank to pelt them with stones and frighten them with
his cries, so as to prevent their turning back. In about half an
hour they all arrived safe, when they were immediately saddled and
reloaded[64], and we pursued our journey.
The weakness of our horses obliged us to halt twenty-five wersts from
Moundoukann, in a place that offered us most pasture, and that seemed
to have few traces of bears. From a fast of six months, it is easily
conceived how much the voracity of these animals is to be dreaded.
Deserting their dens, they prowl about the country, and from the want
of fish, with which the rivers do not yet abound, they ravenously
attack every animal they meet, and particularly horses. We were obliged
to take precautions even for our own safety. From the following
description, the reader will be able to form an idea of the nature of
our halts.
Having fixed upon the spot, the horses were eased of their burthens
and permitted to graze at liberty. Fires were then kindled at equal
distances round our little camp, and at the entrance of my tent I
repeatedly discharged my musquet, being assured that the report and
smell of the powder would terrify and drive away the bears. At break of
day our horses are assembled; if any of them were dispersed they came
at the cry of my Yakouts, who possess the same talent in this respect
as the Koriacs with their rein deer.
Surprised at seeing tufts of horse hair suspended to the branches
of trees, I asked the cause of it, and was informed that they were
offerings made by the people of the country to the gods of the woods
and highways. My guides had their favourite places, where they piously
deposed similar gifts. This superstition is at least productive of
one good effect, as the offerings may serve to point out the road to
travellers.
In the course of the preceding day we had crossed various branches
of the river Ourak, the ramifications of which are infinite, but
none of them occasioned us any delay. The 11, about five o’clock
in the afternoon, we met this river again: its width was not very
considerable, and, but for the rain[65] that had fallen and swelled
the current, we should have felt no hesitation in fording it as we had
done in the preceding instances. My principal guide represented it
as dangerous; but having been forewarned that if I listened to their
advice they would frequently make me halt even at noon day, to repose
themselves rather than from a wish to refresh their horses, I resolved
at least to have the depth founded. The experiment however convinced me
that my guide was in the right. The person whom I ordered to go into
the river was quickly obliged to return, as his horse lost footing a
few steps from the bank. It was necessary to pitch our camp in the
neighbourhood, where our horses fortunately found something to eat.
That I might lose less time, I restricted myself to one regular meal
in the evening, satisfied with the refreshment of rye biscuit in the
course of the day; but I had desired my people to inform me whenever
they perceived any game[66], and we lived for some time on the fruits
of my success. Necessity is an able master, and custom supplied the
want of skill.
If I happened to kill any small animals, they fell to the lot of my
Yakouts, except the skins, which they returned to me. Golikoff had
given me a disgust to this food, which I conceived from his report
to be very nauseous. Tempted however one day by the whiteness of the
flesh, when boiled, I eat part of one of these little animals: they
taste of the fir, but are less disagreeable than I had been led to
believe. In a time of scarcity, I should have considered them as very
acceptable, and can forgive the Yakouts their high relish of them.
Their principal food, which they call _bourdouk_, gave me infinitely
more repugnance. It is a kind of thick frumenty, made of rye meal and
water, into which, after it is taken off the fire, they pour fish
oil: the quantity they eat of it astonished and shocked me. I was
told that in general they were not very great eaters; it was however
added, that they now and then, as a treat, roast a horse, which is
demolished in a few hours by a very small number of guests, and the
intestines of the animal are by no means the least precious morsel. Who
would suppose that men of such voracious appetites, practice at other
times a frugality that seems scarcely sufficient to support life, and
frequently continue a number of days together without food?