branches of a tree, six feet and an half long, three inches wide, and
very roughly finished, the extremities of which in front are bent
upwards in the form of a demi-crescent, is placed the body of the
sledge, which is really nothing more than a frame of open work, five
feet long and eighteen inches wide, raised two feet and a few inches
above the ground. Two small poles, about five inches in circumference,
constitute the frame of this vehicle, the minuter parts of which are
formed of thick laths, inserted the one in the other. A cross bar,
more substantial than these poles, unites their forward extremities,
which are prolonged to the arches of the skates, and fastened to them
with leathern thongs. The lower part of this open work rests upon a
sort of curvilinear feet, the lower ends of which, spreading out, are
inserted in the skates, and the back is constructed in the form of an
open calash, being sixteen inches high and twenty-four deep, disposed
in a semi-circular form, with short poles ranged at the top, in the
perforations of a demi-hoop, nearly like the backs of our arm chairs in
a garden. In this narrow inclosure, the traveller commonly places his
provisions, or whatever else is destined for continual use. For myself,
I employed it to receive my box of dispatches, and seated myself upon
it till the moment that I took the place of my guide. His seat is
towards the middle of the open work, not far from the cross bar; here
he places himself astride, with his feet resting upon the skates of the
sledge.
The team consists of two rein deer placed abreast, with no other
harness than a leathern collar, which passes across the breast and
between the fore legs of the animal, and is fastened to his flank by
a thong, in the manner of a trace, so that that which belongs to the
deer on the right, is fastened to the cross bar of the sledge, and
that which belongs to the deer on the left, to the bottom of one of
the bent supporters of the carriage, and on the same side. As reins,
they have two slender thongs, one end of which is twisted about the
root of the horns of the deer[35]. When they want to go to the right,
they pull the rein gently in this direction, giving at the same time
a sort of back handed lash to the animal on the left. When they want
to go to the left, they give two or three smart shakes to the right
rein, touching at the same time the deer to which it belongs. The
left rein has no other use than as a curb to the deer to which it is
fastened. The driver has also a stick, one end of which is armed with
a sort of hammer. The head of the instrument consists of an horizontal
bone, one of whose extremities is very sharp, and is principally used
to disengage the traces of the deer, while they are going on, if they
happen to become entangled about their feet; and this is considered
as one of the nicest accomplishments of a driver. The other end of
the bone is round and blunted, and serves the purpose of a whip; but
the blows that are given with it are much more severe; and are beside
distributed so liberally, that the poor animals are sometimes covered
with streams of blood. These sticks are very apt to break, and they
therefore take care to provide themselves with a number of them, which
are fastened lengthwise to the sledge.
We travelled very slowly till the evening. The only inconvenience I
felt was the not being able, for want of an interpreter, to enjoy the
conversation of my princely guide. It doubtless deprived me of a fund
of information which it was in his power to have furnished, and our
mutual taciturnity did not render my journey the more pleasant.
We stopped at seven o’clock. It was necessary to gain a mountain well
known to our Koriacs, and which had been marked in our itinerary as our
first stage. I should in vain have wished to seek shelter in a wood, as
had been my custom when drawn by dogs. The convenience of the traveller
is left out of the account in the choice of a resting place; that of
the rein deer only is consulted, and the spot that most abounds with
moss is invariably preferred. Half way up the mountain our steeds were
unharnessed, and no other care taken of them than that of tying them
with leathern thongs. I saw them instantly scrape away the snow, under
which they well knew how to come at their food. At a short distance
we made a fire, and set on our kettle, and the length of our supper
answered to its frugality. I admitted my Koriac prince to my mess, who
appeared to be highly flattered with the honour. I then laid myself
down on the snow, and was permitted to sleep a few hours; but when the
time was expired, they awoke me without compunction to proceed on our
journey.
It is necessary to observe that the Koriacs will travel four, five, or
six days incessantly without taking scarcely any repose. The rein deer
are habituated to run day and night. In every two or three hours they
are unharnessed, and allowed the interval of an hour to feed, after
which they set off again with equal ardour; and this mode is repeated
till they arrive at the end of the journey. It may be supposed from
this account, that I considered myself as fortunate, when the night
came, to be indulged with two hours uninterrupted sleep. The favour
however was not long accorded to me, and by degrees I was obliged to
accustom myself to the practice of my inflexible conductors, though it
was not without extreme difficulty.
Before I remounted, Eviava informed me that he was under the necessity
of lightening our vehicle, the weight of two persons being for a
continuance too much for our steeds, and that if I wished to make
the experiment of being my own charioteer, he would take one of the
empty sledges, with which we were furnished as a resource in case of
accident, or the loss of any of our deer. The proposal coincided too
well with my inclination for me to hesitate a moment in accepting it,
and I instantly seized the reins, and began my new apprenticeship.
I found it equally arduous with that to which I subjected myself
at Bolcheretsk, with this difference, that I was then the first to
laugh at the frequency of my falls; whereas in the present case, I
obtained the conviction of their danger at the risk of my life. The
trace of the deer on the left, being fastened to the supporter of the
sledge on the corresponding side, nearly touches the left foot of the
conductor, who must be continually on his guard to keep clear of it.
From forgetfulness or inexperience, I failed in this precaution, and
my leg became entangled. The violence of my fall, or more probably
the sudden and acute pain I felt in my leg, led me imprudently to
relinquish my hold of the reins, in order to apply my hand to it. By
what means could I disengage myself? The deer, finding no longer the
same restraint, advanced with greater speed, and every effort I made to
get free encouraged and irritated them. Dragged along in this manner,
my head sweeping the snow and striking continually against the skate
of the sledge, and feeling every moment as if my leg would be shivered
in pieces, it is scarcely conceivable what I suffered. I was no longer
able to cry out; I had lost all consciousness; when, by a motion purely
mechanical, I extended my left hand exactly upon the reins that floated
by chance. A new jolt of the sledge made me draw back my hand, and this
involuntary check stopped my deer. Some of my people came up at the
same time, expecting to find me either dangerously wounded, or already
deprived of life. Meanwhile after a swoon of a few minutes, my senses
returned, and I recovered my strength. The only injury I sustained was
a violent contusion on my leg, and a head-ache, which were attended
with no very material consequences. The joy of having escaped from
this danger, gave me additional courage, and I ascended my sledge, and
pursued my journey as if nothing had happened.
Become more circumspect, I took care in future whenever I was
overturned, to check immediately my deer, for I ought to consider
myself as fortunate that, in their impetuosity, they did not proceed
with me to the mountains[36]. In that case how could they have been
stopped? Three or four days are frequently spent in this pursuit, and
sometimes without success. This intelligence, which I received from
my Koriacs, made me tremble for my dispatches, which were in a box
fastened to my sledge, and were thus liable to be taken from me every
moment.
I perceived at the left of our road the village of Karbanda, situated
on the sea-coast, and ninety wersts from Ingiga. We did not pass nearer
than a werst to it, and it appeared to be a very inconsiderable ostrog.
Three wersts farther on I saw two yourts and six balagans, which are
occupied only in summer.
We had still seven wersts to the place destined for our halt, which was
a wretched hamlet in the middle of a small wood watered by the river
Noyakhona. It consists of a single yourt and three or four balagans,
inhabited winter and summer by ten or twelve Koriacs, who gave me a
tolerable reception; for they sheltered me at least; and this was no
trifling convenience to a man frequently obliged to sleep in the open
air, and upon a bed of snow.
About two o’clock in the morning we sent for our deer, which had
been conducted to a distance from the hamlet, that they might have an
opportunity of feeding, and be out of the reach of the dogs. We pursued
our journey, but the day afforded nothing interesting.
In the evening, Eviava, who was not well acquainted with the situation
of the yourt of Oumiavin’s brother, proposed to me to ascend a mountain
at the left, where he expected to find one of his countrymen that could
direct us. In the space of an hour and an half we reached the summit,
but upon looking round, could perceive no trace of an habitation. The
night would not permit us to extend our search. Perceiving that I was
tired and little disposed to go any farther, Eviava was unhappy. To
satisfy him, I desired that he would make the search without me, and
that I would in the mean time, repose myself in this place till his
return. In about three hours he came with joy to awake me. He had found
his friend, prince Amoulamoula and all his herd. They entreated me not
to quit the place where I was till the next morning, being all desirous
of coming to meet me. I was not sorry for the event, as it procured me
almost a whole night’s rest.
As soon as it was light my visitors came. The chief approached me
first, to pay me his compliments in the Koriac mode. He accompanied
them with a beautiful black and red fox skin, or _sevadouschka_, which
he drew from his parque, and obliged me to accept[37]. In return for
this civility, I treated them all with brandy and tobacco, with which I
had amply provided myself at Ingiga; and having thanked them for their
kindness, I took my leave, supplied with the necessary information to
direct our course.
Though the snow was very deep, and not at all firm, our deer ran with
surprising ease and lightness. Having broader feet, they do not sink
so much as the dogs, and have in this respect the advantage, as there
is no necessity of going before them with rackets to clear the way.
But then the dogs are not so soon tired, and spare the traveller the
disagreeable circumstance of stopping every two or three hours.
In my way I killed a number of partridges. From the quantity we saw,
these cantons must be congenial to them. Some wild rein deer fled upon
our approach with a velocity that scarcely gave me time to observe
them. Happily the abundance of my provisions took from me all desire to
kill them.
At noon we could distinguish the Stoudenaïa-reka, and in an hour after
we had crossed it, or rather we were arrived at the yourt of the
brother of Oumiavin, in whose hands Eviava had undertaken to place me.
My new host came to meet me at the head of his family. Their
satisfaction at seeing me was visible in their countenances, and they
seemed to strive who should press closest. The address of the old
prince was short, but replete with the cordiality which he had before
demonstrated. Every thing he had was at my disposal, and I might
command the services of himself and his family. They immediately began
to place my sledges and effects under cover. I had no other care than
that of my dispatches, and before they would permit me to have even
this trouble, I was obliged to explain to them that I never trusted
this box out of my own hands.
When I entered the yourt, my first care was to pay prince Eviava
my post expences. I had twelve sledges, each drawn by two deer; the
distance we had travelled was a hundred and eighty-five wersts; and I
was indebted therefore seven roubles forty kopecks. In receiving this
sum, my good conductor exclaimed upon my generosity. It was in vain
I endeavoured to prove that I paid him no more than his just due; he
could not comprehend my calculation; and it was the continual burden
of his song, that he had never met with so honest a man. To pay him
for having conferred an obligation upon me, was in his opinion an act
of sublime virtue. So many encomiums, give room for suspicion that the
Russians practice something more than œconomy; and it is asserted, that
their travelling in this country is not attended with much expence.
We sat down to our dinner, which was very joyous. Eviava and my host
eat with me; the brandy was not spared; and my enchanted guests never
remembered to have fared so sumptuously.
I employed the rest of the day in making observations, and
interrogating the people about me. But the reader may have perhaps the
curiosity to know something more of the brave Koriac who received me
with so good a grace.
His name also is Oumiavin, but he is distinguished from his brother by
that of Simeon, in which he was baptized when an infant. He confessed
to me with the utmost frankness, that he had no idea of the nature of
the Christian religion. So little care had been taken to instruct this
young proselyte, that he was ignorant of the very first principles
of the gospel. Accustomed to an absurd mixture of the errors of his
country, and a few external practices of Christianity to which he had
habituated himself[38], he happily found in his heart the principles of
natural rectitude, by which alone his conduct was governed.
Like all the Koriacs, he is small and sallow. His head is
characteristic of his mind. An expression of frankness and benevolence,
confirmed by the whole of his figure, prejudices us in his favour;
and his short white locks, added to the regularity of his features,
give him an air of true distinction. He is lame of his right-arm, in
consequence of an obstinate contest with a bear. His companions fled
through fear, and he was left alone to oppose the monster, and though
he had no other weapon but his knife, he defeated and killed him. The
chace is his favourite amusement. Equally skilful and intrepid, he is
regarded also as a very fortunate hunter.
But it is the strength of his mind, that renders him most estimable
and interesting. The project he formed, and which he laments the not
having been permitted to execute, could only have been dictated by a
head strongly organised. It proves at least much good sense and deeper
reflection than can be ascribed to the rest of his countrymen. It
originated thus.
Indocile and jealous of its liberty, this people had for a long time
impatiently brooked the idea of being tributary to Russia. The severe
administration of the governors was accused by this savage tribe as
being a tyrannical abuse of power; and doubtless, among the numerous
subaltern officers there were many who felt no compunction in harassing
these new subjects of the empress.
Simeon Oumiavin was the first whose indignation was roused. More
enraged at the obduracy of these extortioners, than at what was taken
for them, it was impossible, he said, they could be authorised by a
sovereign whose justice and lenity were incessantly vaunted. This
judicious reflexion made the strongest impression upon his mind, and
awakened all his natural courage. Immediately assembling a few of his
countrymen, who, like himself, were victims of the iniquity of these
petty tyrants, he communicated to them his suspicions, and his design.
“My brethren,” said he, “do you feel the weight of your chains? Were
you born to wear them, to be the prey of these avaricious rulers, whose
rapacity, abusing every day the power entrusted to them, leads them
to regard us as a property which they may squander at their pleasure?
How do we hope to deliver ourselves from this scourge? We cannot have
recourse to arms; we are too weak; and new and more formidable enemies
would spring up from the ashes of the dead. But we dare pass the
immense tract of country which they traversed to come to us; we dare
carry our complaints to the palace of our sovereign. It is in her name,
but not by her order, that we are harassed, that we are robbed. The
mildness of her government gives the lie to such injurious treatment,
such perfidies. Her licentious ministers are the most forward to boast
of its lenity. Let us go in person to claim it, throw ourselves at her
feet, and declare our grievances. She is our common mother, and will
not turn a deaf ear to the cries of a part of her subjects, of whom she
can have no knowledge but from the false accounts of her wicked agents.”
This speech, which I have reported nearly as it was delivered to me
by Oumiavin, inspired every mind with the indignation and enthusiasm
of its author. It was a zealous contest among them who should go to
Petersburg. Meanwhile the most wealthy and intrepid were selected
for the office. Oumiavin, from his ability to speak with tolerable
readiness the Russian language, had the honour of being placed at the
head of the deputation, and they departed, furnished with a variety of
valuable articles which were intended as presents. Arrived at Okotsk,
our travellers stood in need of succour. They applied to the governor,
intreating him to supply them with the means of gaining Irkoutsk at
least. He had got some intelligence of their design, and foreseeing
its danger, took measures to prevent it. Under the specious pretext of
first obtaining the consent of the governor general, he detained them
several months. During this interval, he employed every means to seduce
them. Reasonings, intreaties, kindness, every thing was resorted to;
but nothing could dissuade them from continuing their journey; they
were inflexible. Violence was then made use of; a thousand snares were
spread for them; it was easy for monopoly and persecution to create
wrongs; and as a punishment, they were constrained to return, with the
shame and mortification of having sacrificed to no purpose the greatest
part of their wealth, and their deer.
This melancholy experience discouraged not the chief of the Koriac
confederacy; it was in his eyes an additional proof of the utility
of his design, and the necessity of executing it. From this moment
he treasured up the remembrance of it, hoping that more fortunate
circumstances would one day offer. At the time of my visit, his heart
was still inflamed with the desire of undertaking this expedition.
“Yes,” said he, “in spite of my age, I would set off this moment. My
motive indeed would be different, and I should no longer have the
same obstacles to fear, as our present governors are entitled to our
confidence and praises. My ambition would be to see my sovereign. I
endeavour sometimes to form an idea of her splendid palace, and the
wealth and variety with which it abounds, and it revives my regret at
not having been permitted to behold her in all her magnificence and
glory. We should have considered her as a divinity, and the faithful
account we should have given to our countrymen, would have filled every
heart with respect and submission. Influenced still more forcibly
by love, than we had before been by fear, we should cheerfully have
paid every tribute imposed by moderation. We should have taught our
neighbours to venerate her government, by making them the witnesses of
our satisfaction and gratitude.”
Almost my whole conversation with this honest Koriac was of this
nature. I considered myself as bound to transcribe it in this place,
to give the fuller description of his character. I beg leave to add
another anecdote.
The expences he had incurred had nearly ruined him. A considerable
time was necessary to repair his flock, which, from the neglect
and infidelity of the keepers, had during his absence fallen into
decay. It was at this very moment that he gave a striking proof of
his generosity. One of his relations had some months before lost all
his deer, and was reduced to servitude. Simeon Oumiavin came to his
assistance, and made up for him a small flock which he lent him without
interest. On his return from his fatal embassy, he refused to take it
back, because it was not yet sufficiently augmented to leave his friend
wherewith to support himself.
Their deer is the only source of riches to this wandering people. The
chief of a horde has seldom less than two or three hundred, and many of
them have three or four thousand. Oumiavin’s flock amounted, when I was
with him, to about eight or nine hundred, the view of which afforded me
very great pleasure.
This multitude of deer are seen on the top of a mountain, near the
Stoudenaïa-reka, sometimes collected, and sometimes scattered, seeking
under the snow for moss. It is seldom that any of them wander from the
flock, and they are always caught without difficulty. On the evening
of my arrival I had an opportunity of enjoying this spectacle. They
had been assembled in order to select what were necessary for my use,
which required only a quarter of an hour. Upon a particular cry of
their keepers, the tame deer came towards us. The young ones, and
those which are unaccustomed to, or exempt from, labour, go off in a
different direction. The slow and the restive ones were next separated
from the rest, and those that were wanted were easily caught by means
of a running noose which they threw over them with singular dexterity.
The choice being made, they separated those destined for my use, and
which if they had not been detained by force, would speedily have gone
to rejoin the rest.
They do not ordinarily employ in labour the female deer, which are
reserved for the propagation of the species. They are coupled in
autumn, and foal in the spring. The young males designed for draught,
are castrated nearly in the same manner as the dogs of Kamtschatka.
There are almost always three or four deer in a flock that are trained
for the chace. The instinct of these animals is inconceivable; they
hunt even while they are feeding. If a tame deer perceives a wild one,
he immediately, without showing any sign either of joy or surprise,
imitates in browsing the gait and manner of the other, who sometimes
approaches him without suspecting a snare. Presently one sees them
play together; their horns become entangled, they part, they join each
other again, they fly and pursue each other by turns. In these sportive
amusements the tame deer gradually draws his prey within musquet shot
of the hunter. With a well managed deer, one is able to seize his
companion alive; a cord is hung upon the horns of the former, which, in
their play, he entangles in the horns of his adversary. From that time
the greater the efforts made by the wild deer to escape, the closer the
running knot is drawn, and the more strongly the tame deer pulls at
the cord, in order to give his master time to come up. It frequently
happens however that the wild deer suspects the trick, and escapes the
danger by flight.
When a Koriac comes out of his yourt in the morning, the deer flock
about him in expectation of a drink, which is the highest treat to
them; this is nothing more than human urine, which is carefully
preserved in vessels, or hampers made of straw, and of so nice a
contexture that the liquor cannot penetrate through them. The flock are
so extremely fond of this beverage, that whatever quantity you give
them, it is all swallowed in an instant.
Simeon Oumiavin ordered a young deer to be killed, the best of his
flock. It was cut up for my use, and the half of a wild deer added to
it, the flesh of which appeared to be still more succulent. He gave me
also four very beautiful skins[39]. We then entered the yourt, where I
passed the night upon a mattrass spread in one corner.