placed in spring or early summer. For flower-garden effects, the large
and mature bulbs should be secured; for colonizing in shrubbery or on
the lawn, the smaller sizes may be sufficient. Insist that your bulbs
shall be first class, for there is wide difference in the quality; even
with the best of treatment, good results cannot be secured from poor
bulbs.
[Illustration: Fig. 257. A purple-flowered Amaryllis.--_Lycoris
squamigera_, but known as _Amaryllis Hallii_.]
It is not generally known that there are autumn-flowering bulbs.
Several species of crocus bloom in the fall, _C. sativus_ (the saffron
crocus) and _C. speciosus_ being the ones generally recommended. The
colchicums are excellent autumn-blooming bulbs and should be more
generally planted. _C. autumnale_, rosy purple, is the usual species.
These autumn-blooming bulbs are planted in August or early September
and treated in general the same as other similar bulbs. The colchicums
usually remain in the ground several years in good condition.
[Illustration: Fig. 258. The Japanese gold-banded lily.--_Lilium
auratum_]
All kinds of bulbs are partial to a deep, rich, water-free soil. This
is no small part of their successful culture. The spot should be well
drained, either naturally or artificially. In flattish and rather moist
lands the beds may be made above the surface, some 18 inches high, and
bordered with grass. A layer of rough stones a foot deep is sometimes
used in the bottom of ordinary beds for drainage, and with good
results, when other methods are not convenient, and when there is fear
that the bed may become too wet. If the place is likely to be rather
wet, place a large handful of sand where the bulb is to go and set the
bulb on it. This will keep the water from standing around the bulb.
Very good results may be had in heavy soil by this method.
[Illustration: Fig. 259. One of the common wild lilies.--_Lilium
Philadelphicum_.]
The soil for bulbs should be well enriched with old manure. Fresh
manure should never be allowed close about the bulb. The addition of
leafmold and a little sand also improves the texture of heavy soils.
For lilies the leafmold may be omitted. Let the spading be at least a
foot deep. Eighteen inches will be none too deep for lilies. To make a
bulb bed, throw out the top earth to the depth of 6 inches. Put into
the bottom of the bed about 2 inches of well-rotted manure and spade it
into the soil. Throw back half of the top soil, level it off nicely,
set the bulbs firmly on this bed, and then cover them with the
remainder of the earth; in this way one will have the bulbs from 3 to 4
inches below the surface, and they will all be of uniform depth and
will give uniform results if the bulbs themselves are well graded. The
“design” bed may be worked out easily in this way, for all the bulbs
are fully exposed after they are placed, and they are all covered at
once.
[Illustration: Fig. 260. Common species of narcissus.--_a a. Narcissus
Pseudo-Narcissus_ or daffodil; _b._ Jonquil; _c. N. Pœticus_.]
Of course, it is not necessary that the home gardener go to the trouble
of removing the earth and replacing it if he merely wants good blooms;
but if he wants a good bed as a whole, or a mass effect, he should take
this pains. In the shrubberies and on the lawn he may “stick them in”
here and there, seeing that the top of the bulb is 3 to 6 inches
beneath the surface, the depth depending on the size of the bulb (the
bigger and stronger the bulb, the deeper it may go) and on the nature
of the soil (they may go deeper in sand than in hard clay).
As the time of severe winter freezing approaches, the bed should
receive a mulch of leaves, manure or litter, to the depth of 4 inches
or more, according to the latitude and the kind of material. If leaves
are used, 3 inches will be enough, because the leaves lie close
together and may smother out the frost that is in the ground and let
the bulbs start. It will be well to let the mulch extend 1 foot or more
beyond the margins of the bed. When cold weather is past, half of the
mulch should be removed. The remainder may be left on till there is no
longer danger of frost. On removing the last of the mulch, lightly work
over the surface among the bulbs with a thrust-hoe.
If the weather happens to be very bright during the blooming season,
the duration of the flowers may be prolonged by light shading—as with
muslin, or slats placed above the beds. If planted where they have
partial shade from surrounding trees or shrubbery, the beds will not
need attention of this kind.
Lilies may remain undisturbed for years. Crocuses and tulips may stand
two years, but hyacinths should be taken up each year and replanted;
tulips also will be better for the same treatment. Narcissus may remain
for some years, or until they show signs of running out.
[Illustration: Fig. 261. The Belladonna lily.--_Amaryllis Belladonna_.]
Bulbs that are to be taken up should be left in the ground till the
foliage turns yellow, or dies down naturally. This gives the bulbs a
chance to ripen. Cutting off the foliage and digging too early is a not
uncommon and serious mistake. Bulbs that have been planted in places
that are wanted for summer bedding plants may be dug with the foliage
on and heeled-in under a tree, or along a fence, to stand till ripened.
The plant should be injured as little as possible, as the foliage of
this year makes the flowers of the next. When the foliage has turned
yellow or died down, the bulbs—after cleaning, and curing them for a
few hours in the sun—may be stored in the cellar or other cool, dry
place, to await fall planting. Bulbs that are lifted prematurely in
this way should be planted permanently in the borders, for they will
not make good flower-garden subjects the following year. In fact, it is
usually best to buy fresh, strong bulbs each year of tulips, hyacinths,
and crocuses if the best results are desired, using the old bulbs for
shrubberies and mixed borders.
Crocuses and squills are often planted in the lawn. It is not to be
expected that they will last more than two to three years, however,
even if care is taken not to cut the tops closely when the lawn is cut.
The narcissus (including daffodils and jonquils) will remain in good
condition for years in grassy parts of the place, if the tops are
allowed to mature.
[Illustration: Fig. 262. The common Dutch hyacinth.]
_List of outdoor fall-planted bulbs for the North_.
Crocus.
Hyacinth.
Tulip.
Narcissus (including daffodil and jonquil).
Scilla, or squill.
Snowdrop _(Galanthus)._
Snowflake _(Leucoium)._
Chionodoxa.
Hardy alliums.
Bulbocodium.
Camassia.
Lily-of-the-valley.
Winter aconite (_Eranthis hycmalis_).
Dog-tooth violets (_Erythronium_).
Crown imperial (_Fritillaria Imperialis_).
Fritillary (_Fritillaria Mekagris_).
Trilliums.
Lilies.
Peonies, tuberous anemones, tuberous buttercups, iris, bleeding heart,
and the like, may be planted in autumn and are often classed with
fall-planted bulbs.
_Winter bulbs_ (p. 345).
Some of these bulbs may be made to bloom in the greenhouse,
window-garden, or living room in winter. Hyacinths are particularly
useful for this purpose, because the bloom is less affected by cloudy
weather than that of tulips and crocuses. Some kinds of narcissus also
“force” well, particularly the daffodil; and the Paper-white and
“Chinese sacred lily” are practically the only common bulbs from which
the home gardener may expect good bloom before Christmas. The method of
handling bulbs for winter bloom is described under Window-gardening (on
*p. 345).
_Summer bulbs_.
There is nothing special to be said of the culture of the so-called
summer-blooming and spring-planted bulbs, as a class. They are tender,
and are therefore planted after cold weather is past. For early bloom,
they may be started indoors. Of course, any list of spring-planted
bulbs is relative to the climate, for what may be planted in spring in
New York perhaps may be planted in the fall in Georgia.
The common “summer bulbs” are:—
Gladiolus
Tuberose
Dahlia
Canna
Arum
Calla
Calochortus
Alstremeria
Amaryllis
Colocasia
5. THE SHRUBBERY
(Exclusive of coniferous evergreens and climbing plants.)
The common hardy shrubs or bushes may be planted in fall or spring. In
the northernmost parts of the country and in Canada spring planting is
usually safer, although on well-drained ground and when thoroughly
mulched the plants may even there do well if planted as soon as the
leaves drop in fall. If the shrubs are purchased in spring, they are
likely to have come from “cellared stock”; that is, the nurserymen dig
much of their stock in fall and store it in cellars built for the
purpose. While stock that is properly cellared is perfectly reliable,
that which has been allowed to get too dry or which has been otherwise
improperly handled comes on very slowly in the spring, makes a poor
growth the first year, and much of it may die.
In the planting of any kind of trees or shrubs, it is well to remember
that nursery-grown specimens generally transplant more readily and
thrive better than trees taken from the wild; and this is particularly
true if the stock was transplanted in the nursery. Trees that
transplant with difficulty, as the papaw or asimina, and some nut
trees, may be prepared for removal by cutting some of their roots—and
especially the tap-root, if they have such—a year or two in advance.
XIII. The pageant of summer. XIII. The pageant of summer. Gardens of C.
W. Dowdeswell, England, from a painting by Miss Parsons. For permission
to reproduce the above picture we are indebted to the kindness of
Messrs. Sutton & Sons, Seed Merchants, Reading, England, the owners of
the copyright, who published it in their Amateur’s Guide in
Horticulture for 1909.
It is ordinarily best to plow or spade the entire area in which the
shrubs are to be set. For a year or two the ground should be tilled
between the shrubs, either by horse tools or by hoes and rakes. If the
place looks bare, seeds of quick-growing flowers may be scattered about
the edges of the mass, or herbaceous perennials may be used.
The larger shrubs, as lilacs and syringas, may be set about 4 feet
apart; but the smaller ones should be set about 2 feet apart if it is
desired to secure an immediate effect. If after a few years the mass
becomes too crowded, some of the specimens may be removed (*p. 76).
Throw the shrubs into an irregular plantation, not in rows, and make
the inner edge of the mass more or less undulating and broken.
It is a good practice to mulch the plantation each fall with light
manure, leaf mold, or other material. Even though the shrubs are
perfectly hardy, this mulch greatly improves the land and promotes
growth. After the shrub borders have become two or three years old, the
drifting leaves of fall will be caught therein and will be held as a
mulch (p. 82).
When the shrubs are first planted, they are headed back one half or
more (Fig. 45); but after they are established they are not to be
sheared, but allowed to take their own way, and after a few years the
outermost ones will droop and meet the green*-sward (*pp. 25, 26).
Many rapid-growing trees may be utilized as shrubs by cutting them off
near the ground every year, or every other year, and allowing young
shoots to grow. Basswood, black ash, some of the maples, tulip tree,
mulberry, ailanthus, paulownia, magnolias, _Acer campestre_, and others
may be treated in this way (Fig. 50).
Nearly all shrubs bloom in spring or early summer. If kinds blooming
late in summer or in fall are desired, they maybe looked for in
baccharis, caryopteris, cephalanthus, clethra, hamamelis, hibiscus,
hydrangea, hypericum, lespedeza, rhus _(R. Cotinus), Sambucus
Canadensis_ in midsummer, tamarisk.
Plants that bloom in very early spring (not mentioning such as birches,
alders, and hazels) may be found in amelanchier, cydonia, daphne,
dirca, forsythia, cercis (in tree list), benzoin, lonicera _(L.
fragrantissima_), salix (_S. discolor_ and other pussy willows),
shepherdia.
Shrubs bearing conspicuous berries, pods, and the like, that persist in
fall or winter may be found in the genera berberis (particularly _B.
Thunbergii_), colutea, corylus, cratægus, euonymus, ilex, physocarpus,
ostrya, ptelea, pyracantha (Plate XIX) pyrus, rhodotypos, rosa (_R.
rugosa_), staphylea, symphoricarpus, viburnum, xanthoceras.
_List of shrubbery plants for the North_.
The following list of shrubs (of course not complete) comprises a
selection with particular reference to southern Michigan and central
New York, where the mercury sometimes falls to fifteen degrees below
zero. Application is also made to Canada by designating species that
have been found to be hardy at Ottawa.
The list is arranged alphabetically by the names of the genera.
The * denotes that the plant is native to North America.
The ‡ indicates species that are recommended by the Central
Experimental Farms, Ottawa, Ontario.
It is often difficult to determine whether a group should be listed
among shrubs or trees. Sometimes the plant is not quite a tree and is
yet something more than a shrub or bush; sometimes the plant may be
distinctly a tree in its southern range and a shrub in its northern
range; sometimes the same genus or group contains both shrubs and
trees. In the following genera there are doubtful cases: æsculus,
alnus, amelanchier, betula, caragana, castanea, cornus (_C. florida_),
cratægus, elæagnus, prunus, robinia.
Dwarf buckeye, _Æsculus parviflora (Pavia macrostachya_).* Attractive
in habit, foliage, and flower; produces a large foliage mass.
Alder. Several bushy species of alder are good lawn or border subjects,
particularly in wet places or along streams, as _A. viridis,* A.
rugosa,* A. incana_,* and others.
June-berry, _Amelanchier Canadensis_* and others. Flowers profusely in
spring before the leaves appear; some of them become small trees.
Azalea, _Azalea viscosa_* and _A. nudiflora_.* Require partial shade,
and a woodsy soil.
Japanese azalea, _A. mollis_ (or _A. Sinensis_). Showy red and yellow
or orange flowers; hardy north.
Groundsel tree, “white myrtle,” _Baccharis halimifolia_.* Native on the
Atlantic seashore, but grows well when planted inland; valuable for its
white fluffy “bloom” (pappus) in latest fall; 4-10 ft.
Spice-bush, _Benzoin odoriferum (Lindera Benzoin_*). Very
early-blooming bush of wet places, the yellow, clustered, small flowers
preceding the leaves; 6–10 ft.
Barberry, _Berberis vulgaris_. Common barberry; 4-6 ft. The
purple-leaved form (var. _purpurea_‡) is popular.
Thunberg’s barberry, _B. Thunbergii_.‡ One of the best of lawn and
border shrubs, with compact and attractive habit, deep red autumn
foliage and bright scarlet berries in profusion in fall and winter;
excellent for low hedges; 2-4 ft.
Mahonia, _Berberis Aquifolium_.*‡ Evergreen; needs some protection in
exposed places; 1-3 ft.
Dwarf birch, _Betula pumila_.* Desirable for low places; 3-10 ft.
Box, _Buxus sempervirens_. An evergreen shrub, useful for hedges and
edgings in cities; several varieties, some of them very dwarf. See page
220.
Carolina allspice, sweet-scented shrub, _Calycanthus floridus_.* Dull
purple, very fragrant flowers; 3-8 ft.
Siberian pea-tree, _Caragana arborescens_.‡ Flowers pea-like, yellow,
in May; very hardy; 10-15 feet.
Small pea-tree, _C. pygmœa_. Very small, 1-3 ft, but sometimes grafted
on _C. arborescens_.
Shrubby pea-tree, _C. frutescens_.‡ Flowers larger than those of _C.
arborescens_; 3–10 ft.
Large-flowered pea-tree, _C. grandiflora_.‡ Larger-flowered than the
last, which it resembles; 4 ft.
Blue spirea, _Caryopteris Mastacanthus_. Flowers bright blue, in late
summer and fall; 2-4 ft., but is likely to die to ground in winter.
Chinquapin or dwarf chestnut, _Castanea pumila_.* Becomes a small tree,
but usually bushy.
Ceanothus, _Ceanothus Americanus_.* A very small native shrub,
desirable for dry places under trees; 2-3 ft. There are many good
European garden forms of ceanothus, but not hardy in the northern
states.
Button-bush, _Cephalanthus occidentalis_.* Blossoms in July and August;
desirable for water-courses and other low places; 4-10 ft.
Fringe tree, _Chionanthus Virginica_.* Shrub as large as lilac, or
becoming tree-like, with fringe-like white flowers in spring.
White alder, _Clethra alnifolia_.* A very fine, hardy shrub, producing
very fragrant flowers in July and August; should be better known; 4-10
ft.
Bladder senna, _Colutea arborescens_. Pea-like yellowish flowers in
June, and big inflated pods; 8-12 ft.
European osier, _Cornus alba_ (known also as _C. Sibirica_ and _C.
Tatarica_). Branches deep red; 4-8 ft.; the variegated form ‡ has
leaves edged white.
Bailey’s osier, _Cornus Baileyi_.* Probably the finest of the native
osiers for color of twigs and foliage; 5-8 ft.
Red-twigged osier, _Cornus stolonifera_.* The red twigs are very showy
in winter; 5 to 8 ft.; some bushes are brighter in color than others.
Flowering dogwood, _C. florida_.* Very showy tree or big shrub,
desirable for borders of groups and belts. A red-flowered variety is on
the market.
Cornelian Cherry, _Cornus Mas_. Becoming a small tree, 15-20 ft.;
flowers numerous in bunches, yellow, before the leaves; fruit,
cherry-like, edible, red.
Hazel or filbert, _Corylus maxima_ var. _purpurea_. A well-known
purple-leaved shrub, usually catalogued as _C. Avellana purpurea_. The
eastern American species (_C. Americana_* and _C. rostrata_*) are also
interesting.
Cotoneaster. Several species of cotoneaster are suitable for
cultivation in the middle and southern latitudes. They are allied to
cratægus. Some are evergreen. Some kinds bear handsome persistent
fruits.
Wild thorns, _Cratœgus punctata_,* _C. coccinea_,*‡ _C. Crus-galli_,*‡
and others. The native thorn apples or hawthorns, of numerous species,
are amongst our best large shrubs for planting and should be much
better known; 6-20 ft.
Japanese quince, _Cydonia_ (or _Pyrus_) _Japonica_. An old favorite
blooming in earliest spring, in advance of the leaves; not hardy at
Lansing, Mich.; 4-5 ft.
Maule’s Japanese quince, _C. Maulei_.‡ Bright red; fruit handsome;
hardier than _C. Japonica_; 1-3 ft.
Daphne, _Daphne Mezereum_. Produces rose-purple or white flowers in
abundance in earliest spring before the leaves appear. Should be
planted on the edges of groups; leaves deciduous; 1-4 ft.
Garland flower, _D. Cneorum_.‡ Pink flowers in very early spring and
again in autumn; leaves evergreen; 1-1/2 ft.
Deutzia, _Deutzia scabra_ (or _crenata_) and varieties. Standard
shrubs; the variety “Pride of Rochester,” with pinkish flowers, is
perhaps the best form for the North; 4-6 ft. Of this and the next there
are forms with ornamental foliage.
Small deutzia, _D. gracilis_. Very close little bush, with pure white
flowers; 2-3 ft.
Lemoine’s deutzia, _D. Lemoinei_. A hybrid, very desirable; 1-3 ft.
Weigela, _Diervilla Japonica_ and other species. Free bloomers, very
fine, in many colors, 4-6 ft.; the forms known as _Candida,‡ rosea_,‡
_Sieboldii variegata_,‡ are hardy and good.
Leatherwood, _Dirca palustris_.* If well grown, the leatherwood makes a
very neat plant; blossoms appear before the leaves, but not showy; 4-6
ft.
Russian olive, oleaster, _Elœagnus angustifolia_.‡ Foliage silvery
white; very hardy; becoming a small tree, 15-20 ft.
Wolf-willow, _E. argentea_.*‡ Large and silvery leaves; suckers badly;
8-12 ft.
Goumi, _E. longipes_ (sometimes called _E. edulis_). Attractive
spreading bush, with handsome edible cranberry-like berries; 5-6 ft.
Burning-bush, _Euonymus atropurpureus_.* Very attractive in fruit; 8-12
ft., or even becoming tree-like.
Several other species are in cultivation, some of them evergreen. In
the North, success may be expected with _E. Europœus_ (sometimes a
small tree), _E. alatus, E. Bungeanus, E. latifolius_, and perhaps
others.
Exochorda, _Exochorda grandiflora_. A large and very showy shrub,
producing a profusion of apple-like white flowers in early spring; 6-12
ft; allied to the spireas.
Forsythia, _Forsythia viridissima_. Blossoms yellow, appearing before
the leaves; requires protection in many places North; 6-10 ft.
Drooping forsythia, _F. suspensa_. Makes an attractive mass on a bank
or border; 6-12 ft.
Dyer’s weed, _Genista tinctoria_.‡
Yellow pea-like flowers in June; 1-3 ft.
Silver-bell tree, _Halesia tetraptera_.*
Bell-shaped white flowers in May; 8-10 ft.
Witch hazel, _Hamamelis Virginiana_.*
Blossoms in October and November; unique and desirable if well grown;
8-12 ft.
Althea, Rose of Sharon, _Hibiscus Syriacus_ (_Althœa frutex_).
In many forms, purple, red, and white, and perhaps the best of late
summer-blooming shrubs; 8-12 ft.
Hydrangea, _Hydrangea paniculata_, var. _grandiflora_.‡
One of the best and most showy small flowering shrubs; 4-10 ft.
Downy hydrangea, _H. radiata_.*
Attractive in both foliage and flower.
Oak-leaved hydrangea, _H. quercifolia_.*
This is especially valuable for its luxuriant foliage; even if killed
to the ground in winter, it is still worth cultivating for its strong
shoots.
The greenhouse hydrangea (_H. hortensis_ in many forms) may be used as
an outdoor subject in the South.
St. John’s wort, _Hypericum Kalmianum,*‡ H. prolificum,_* and _H.
Moserianum._
Small undershrubs, producing bright yellow flowers in profusion in July
and August; 2-4 ft.
Winter-berry, _Ilex verticillata_.*‡
Produces showy red berries, that persist through the winter; should be
massed in rather low ground; flowers imperfect; 6-8 ft.
The evergreen hollies are not suitable for cultivation in the North;
but in the warmer latitudes, the American holly (_Ilex opaca_), English
holly (_I. Aquifolium_), and Japanese holly (_I. crenata_) may be
grown. There are several native species.
Mountain laurel, _Kalmia latifolia_.*
One of the best shrubs in cultivation, evergreen, 5-10 ft., or even
becoming a small tree south; usually profits by partial shade; thrives
in a peaty or loamy rather loose soil, and said to be averse to
limestone and clay; extensively transferred from the wild for landscape
effects in large private places; should thrive as far north as it grows
wild.
Kerria, corchorus, _Kerria Japonica_. A bramble-like shrub, producing
attractive yellow single or double flowers from July until September;
twigs very green in winter. There is a variegated-leaved form. Good for
banks and borders; 2-3 ft.
Sand myrtle, _Leiophyllum buxifolium_.* Evergreen, more or less
procumbent; 2-3 ft.
Lespedeza, _Lespedeza bicolor_.‡ Reddish or purple small flowers in
late summer and fall; 4-8 ft.
Lespedeza, _L. Sieboldii_ (_Desmodium penduliflorum_).‡ Rose-purple
large flowers in fall; killed to the ground in winter, but it blooms
the following year; 4-5 ft.
Lespedeza, _L. Japonica_ (_Desmodium Japonicum_). Flowers white, later
than those of _L. Sieboldii_; springs up from the root.
Privet, _Ligustrum vulgare, L. ovalifolium_ (_L. Californicum_), and
_L. Amurense._‡ Much used for low hedges and borders; 4-12 ft.; several
other species.
Tartarian honeysuckle, _Lonicera Tatarica_.‡ One of the most chaste and
comely of shrubs; 6-10 ft.; pink-flowered; several varieties.
Regel’s honeysuckle, _L. spinosa_ (_L. Alberti_).‡ Blooms a little
later than above, pink; 2-4 ft.
Fragrant honeysuckle, _L. fragrantissima_. Flowers exceedingly
fragrant, preceding leaves; 2-6 ft.; one of the earliest things to
bloom in spring. There are other upright honeysuckles, all interesting.
Mock-orange (Syringa incorrectly), _Philadelphus coronarius_.‡ In many
forms and much prized; 6-12 ft. Other species are in cultivation, but
the garden nomenclature is confused. The forms known as _P. speciosus,
P. grandiflorus_, and var. _speciosissimus_‡ are good; also the species
_P. pubescens_,* _P. Gordonianus_,* and _P. microphyllus,_* the last
being dwarf, with small white very fragrant flowers.
Nine-bark, _Physocarpus opulifolius_ (_Spiræa opulifolia_).* A good
vigorous hardy bush, with clusters of interesting pods following the
flowers; the var. _aurea_ ‡ is one of the best yellow-leaved shrubs;
6-10 ft.
Andromeda, _Pieris floribunda_.*
A small ericaceous evergreen; should have some protection from the
winter sun; for this purpose, it may be planted on the north side of a
clump of trees; 2-6ft.
Shrubby cinquefoil, _Potentilla fruticosa_.*‡
Foliage ashy; flowers yellow, in June; 2-4 ft.
Sand cherry, _Prunus pumila_* and _P. Besseyi_.*
The sand cherry of sandy shores grows 5-8 ft.; the western sand cherry
(_P. Besseyi_) is more spreading and is grown for its fruit. The
European dwarf cherry (_P. fruticosa_) is 2-4 ft., with white flowers
in umbels.
Flowering almond, _Prunus Japonica_.
In its double-flowered form, familiar for its early bloom; 3-5 ft;
often grafted on other stocks, which are liable to sprout and become
troublesome.
Hop-tree, _Ptelea trifoliata_.*
Very interesting when bearing its roundish winged fruits; 8-10 ft., but
becoming larger and tree-like.
Buckthorn, _Rhamnus cathartica_.
Much used for hedges; 8-12 ft.
Alpine buckthorn, _R. alpina_.
Foliage attractive; 5-6 ft.
Rhododendron, _Rhododendron Catawbiense_* and garden varieties.
Hardy in well-adapted locations, 3-8 ft., and higher in its native
regions.
Great laurel, _R. maximum_*
A fine species for mass planting, native as far north as southern
Canada. Extensively transplanted from the wild.
White kerria, _Rhodotypos kerrioides_.
White flowers in May and blackish fruit; 3-5 ft.
Smoke-tree (Fringe-tree erroneously), _Rhus Cotinus_.
One of the best shrubs for massing; two colors are grown; the billowy
“bloom,” holding late in the season, is composed of flower stems rather
than flowers; size of large lilac bushes.
Dwarf sumac, _R. copallina_.*
Attractive in foliage, and especially conspicuous in autumn from the
brilliant red of its leaves; 3-5 ft., sometimes much taller.
Sumac, smooth and hairy, _R. glabra_* and _R. typhina_.*
Useful for the borders of large groups and belts. They may be cut down
every year and allowed to sprout (as in Fig. 50). The young tops are
handsomest. _R. glabra_ is the finer species for this purpose. They
usually grow 10-15 ft. tall.
Osbeck’s sumac, _R. semialata_ var. _Osbeckii_.
Strong bush, 10-20 ft., with leaf-rachis strongly winged, the foliage
pinnately compound.
Flowering, or fragrant currant, _Ribes aureum_.*‡
Well known and popular, for its sweet-scented yellow flowers in May;
5-8 ft.
Red-flowering currant, _R. sanguineum_.*
Flowers red and attractive; 5-6 ft. _R. Gordonianum_, recommendable, is
a hybrid between _R. sanguineum_ and _R. aureum_.
Rose acacia, _Robinia hispida_.*‡
Very showy in bloom; 8-10ft.
Roses, _Rosa_, various species.
[Illustration: Fig. 263. Rosa rugosa.]
Hardy roses are not always desirable for the lawn. For general lawn
purposes the older sorts, single or semi-double, and which do not
require high culture, are to be preferred. It is not intended to
include here the common garden roses; see Chapter VIII for these. It is
much to be desired that the wild roses receive more attention from
planters. Attention has been too exclusively taken by the highly
improved garden roses.
Japanese rose, _Rosa rugosa_.‡
Most excellent for lawn planting, as the foliage is thick and not
attacked by insects (Fig. 263); white and pink flowered forms; 4-6 ft.
Wild swamp rose, _R. Carolina_.* 5-8 ft.
Wild dwarf rose, _R. humilis_* (_R. lucida_ of Michigan). This and
other wild dwarf roses, 3-6 ft., may be useful in landscape work.
Say’s Rose, _R. acicularis_ var. _Sayi_.* Excellent for lawns; 4-5 ft.
Red-leaved rose, _R. ferruginea (R. rubrifolia_).‡ Excellent foliage;
flowers single, pink; 5-6 ft.
Japanese bramble, _Rubus cratægifolius_. Valuable for holding banks;
spreads rapidly; very red in winter; 3-4 ft.
Flowering raspberry, mulberry (erroneously), _R. odoratus_* Attractive
when well grown and divided frequently to keep it fresh; there is a
whitish form; 3-4 ft.
Japanese wineberry, _R. phaenicolasius_. Attractive foliage and red
hairy canes; fruit edible; 3-5 ft.
Kilmarnock willow, _Salix Capraea_, var. _pendula_. A small weeping
plant grafted on a tall trunk; usually more curious than ornamental.
Rosemary willow, _S. rosmarinifolia_‡ of nurserymen _(R. incana_
properly). 6-10 ft.
Shining willow, _S. lucida_.* Very desirable for the edges of water;
6-12 ft.
Long-leaved willow, _S. interior_.* Our narrowest-leaved native willow;
useful for banks; liable to spread too rapidly; 8-12ft.
Fountain willow, _S. purpurea_. Attractive foliage and appearance,
particularly if cut back now and then to secure new wood; excellent for
holding springy banks; 10-20 ft.
Pussy willow, _S. discolor_* Attractive when massed at some distance
from the residence; 10-15 ft.
Laurel-leaved willow, _S. pentandra (S. laurifolia_ of cultivators)‡
See under Trees, p. 329. Many of the native willows might well be
cultivated.
Elders, _Sambucus pubens_* and _S. Canadensis_.* The former, the common
“red elder,” is ornamental both in flower and fruit. _S. Canadensis_ is
desirable for its profusion of fragrant flowers appearing in July; the
former is 6–7 ft. high and the latter 8-10 ft. Golden-leaved elder, _S.
nigra_ var. _foliis aureis_,‡ and also the cut-leaved elder, are
desirable forms of the European species; 5-15 ft.
Buffalo-berry, _Shepherdia argentea_* Silvery foliage; attractive and
edible berries; 10-15 ft., often tree-like.
Shepherdia, _S. Canadensis_.* Spreading bush, 3–8 ft., with attractive
foliage and fruit.
Early spirea, _Spiræa arguta_.‡ One of the earliest bloomers among the
spireas; 2-4 ft.
Three-lobed spirea, bridal wreath, _S. Van Houttei_.‡ One of the most
showy early-flowering shrubs; excellent for massing; blooms a little
later than the above; 3-6 ft.
Sorbus-leaved spirea, _S. sorbifolia (Sorbaria sorbifolid_).‡ Desirable
for its late blooming,—late June and early July; 4-5 ft.
Plum-leaved spirea, _S. prunifolia_.
Fortune’s spirea, _S. Japonica (S. callosa_),‡ 2 to 4 ft.
Thunberg’s spirea, _S. Thunbergii_. Neat and attractive in habit;
useful for border-hedges; 3-5 ft.
St. Peter’s Wreath, _S. hypericifolia_; 4-5 ft.
Round-leaved spirea, _S. bracteata_.‡ Follows Van Houttei; 3-6 ft.
Douglas’ spirea, _S. Douglasii_.* Blossoms late,—in July; 4-8 ft.
Hard-hack, _S. tomentosa_.* Much like the last, but less showy; 3-4 ft.
Willow-leaved spirea, _S. salicifolia_.*‡ Blooms late; 4-5 ft.
Bladder-nut, _Staphylea trifolia_* Well-known rather coarse native
shrub; 6-12 ft.
Colchican bladder-nut, _S. Colchica_. Good early flowering shrub; 6-12
ft.
[Illustration: Fig. 264. A spirea, one of he most servicable flowering
shrubs.]
Styrax, _Styrax Japonica_. One of the most graceful of flowering
shrubs, producing fragrant flowers in early summer; 8-10 ft. or more.
Snow-berry, _Symphoricarpos racemosus_.*‡ Cultivated for its snow-white
berries, that hang in autumn and early winter; 3-5 ft.
Indian currant, _S. vulgaris_.‡ Foliage delicate; berries red; valuable
for shady places and against walls; 4-5 ft.
Common lilac, _Syringa vulgaris_.‡ (The name syringa is commonly
misapplied to the species of _Philadelphus_.) The standard
spring-blooming shrub in the North; 8-15 ft.; many forms.
Josika lilac, _S. Josikaeca_.‡ Blooming about a week later than S.
_vulgaris_; 8-10 ft.
Persian lilac, _S. Persica_. More spreading and open bush than _S.
vulgaris_; 6-10 ft.
Japanese lilac, _S. Japonica_.‡ Blooms about one month later than
common lilac; 15-20 ft.
Rouen lilac, _S. Chinensis_ (or _Rothomagensis_)‡ Blooms with the
common lilac; flowers more highly colored than those of _S. Persica_;
5-12 ft.
Chinese lilacs, _S. oblata_‡ and _villosa_.‡ The former 10-15 ft. and
blooming with common lilac; the latter 4-6 ft., and blooming few days
later.
Tamarisk, _Tamarix_ of several species, particularly (for the North)
_T. Chinensis, T. Africana_ (probably the garden forms under this name
are all _T. parviflora_), and _T. hispida (T. Kashgarica_).
All odd shrubs or small trees with very fine foliage, and minute pink
flowers in profusion.
Common snowball, _Viburnum Opulus_.*‡ The cultivated snowball ‡ is a
native of the Old World; but the species grows wild in this country
(known as High-bush Cranberry),‡ and is worthy of cultivation; 6-10 ft.
Japanese snowball, _V. tomentosum_ (catalogued as _V. plicatum_). 6-10
ft.
Wayfaring tree, _V. Lantana_.‡ Fruit ornamental; 8-12 ft., or more.
Plum-leaved haw, _V. prunifolium_.*‡ Leaves smooth and glossy; 8-15 ft.
Sweet viburnum or sheep-berry, _Viburnum Lentago_.* Tall coarse bush,
or becoming a small tree.
Arrow-wood, _V. dentatum_.* Usually 5-8 ft., but becoming taller.
Dockmackie, _V. acerifolium_.* Maple-like foliage; 4-5 ft.
Withe-rod, lilac viburnum, _V. cassinoides.* 2-5_ ft. Other native and
exotic viburnums are desirable.
Xanthoceras, _Xanthoceras sorbifolia_. Allied to the buckeyes; hardy in
parts of New England; 8–10ft.; handsome.
Prickly ash, _Zanthoxylum Americanum_.*
_Shrubs for the South_.
Many of the shrubs in the preceding catalogue are also well adapted to
the southeastern states. The following brief list includes some of the
most recommendable kinds for the region south of Washington, although
some of them are hardy farther North. The asterisk * denotes that the
plant is native to this country.
The crape myrtle _(Lagerstrœmia Indica_) is to the South what the lilac
is to the North, a standard dooryard shrub; produces handsome red (or
blush or white) flowers all summer; 8-12 feet.
Reliable deciduous shrubs for the South are: althea, _Hibiscus
Syriacus,_ in many forms; _Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis; Azalea
calendulacea,* mollis_, and the Ghent azalea _(A. Pontica)_; blue
spirea, _Caryopteris Mastacanihus_; European forms of ceanothus; French
mulberry, _Callicarpa Americana_*; calycanthus*; flowering willow,
_Chilopsis linearis_*; fringe, _Chionanthus Virginica_*; white alder,
_Clethra alnifolia_*; corchorus, _Kerria Japonica;_ deutzias, of
several kinds; goumi, _Elœagnus longipes_; pearl bush, _Exochorda
grandiflora_; Japan quince, _Cydonia Japonica;_ golden-bell, _Forsythia
viridissima_; broom, _Spartium junceum;_ hydrangeas, including _H.
Otaksa_, grown under cover in the North; _Jasminum nudiflorum_; bush
honey suckles; mock orange, _Philadelphus coronarius_ and
_grandiflorus_*; pomegranate; white kerria, _Rhodotypos kerrioides_;
smoke tree, _Rhus Cotinus;_ rose locust, _Robinia hispida_*; spireas of
several kinds; _Stuartia pentagyna_*; snowberry, _Symphoricarpos
racemosus_*; lilacs of many kinds; viburnums of several species,
including the European and Japanese snowballs; weigelas of the various
kinds; chaste-tree, _Vitex Agnus-Castus;_ Thunberg’s barberry; red
pepper, _Capsicum frutescens; Plumbago Capensis_; poinsettia.
A large number of broad-leaved evergreen shrubs thrive in the South,
such as: fetter bush, _Andromeda floribunda_*; some of the palms, as
palmettoes* and chamærops; cycas and zamia* far South; _Abelia
grandiflora_; strawberry tree, _Arbutus Unedo;_ ardisias and aucubas,
both grown under glass in the North; azaleas and rhododendrons (not
only _R. Catawbiense_* but _R. maximum* R, Ponticum_, and the garden
forms); _Kalmia latifolia*; Berberis Japonica_ and mahonia*; box;
_Cleyera Japonica_; cotoneasters and pyracantha; eleagnus of the types
grown under glass in the North; gardenias; euonymus*; hollies*;
anise-tree, _Illicium anisatum_; cherry laurels, _Prunus_ or
_Laurocerasus_ of several species; mock orange (of the South), _Prunus
Caroliniana_* useful for hedges; true laurel or bay-tree, _Laurus
nobilis_; privets of several species; _Citrus trifoliata_, specially
desirable for hedges; oleanders; magnolias*; myrtle, _Myrtus communis;
Osmanthus (Olea) fragrans_, a greenhouse shrub North; _Osmanthus
Aquifolium_*; butcher’s broom, _Ruscus aculeatus_; phillyreas*;
_Pittosporum Tobira_; shrubby yuccas*; _Viburnum Tinus_ and others; and
the camellia in many forms.
XIV: Virginia creeper screen, on an old fence, with wall-flowers and
hollyhocks in front. XIV: Virginia creeper screen, on an old fence,
with wall-flowers and hollyhocks in front.
6. CLIMBING PLANTS
Vines do not differ particularly in their culture from other herbs and
shrubs, except as they require that supports be provided; and, as they
overtop other plants, they demand little room on the ground, and they
may therefore be grown in narrow or unused spaces along fences and
walls.
In respect to the modes of climbing, vines may be thrown into three
groups,—those that twine about the support; those that climb by means
of special organs, as tendrils, roots, leaf*stalks; those that neither
twine nor have special organs but that scramble over the support, as
the climbing roses and the brambles. One must recognize the mode of
climbing before undertaking the cultivation of any vine.
Vines may also be grouped into annuals, both tender (as morning-glory)
and hardy (as sweet pea); biennials, as adlumia, which are treated
practically as annuals, being sown each year for bloom the next year;
herbaceous perennials, the tops dying each fall down to a persisting
root, as cinnamon vine and madeira vine; woody perennials (shrubs), the
tops remaining alive, as Virginia creeper, grape, and wistaria.
There is scarcely a garden in which climbing plants may not be used to
advantage. Sometimes it may be to conceal obtrusive objects, again to
relieve the monotony of rigid lines. They may also be used to run over
the ground and to conceal its nakedness where other plants could not
succeed. The shrubby kinds are often useful about the borders of clumps
of trees and shrubbery, to slope the foliage down to the grass, and to
soften or erase lines in the landscape.
In the South and in California, great use is made of vines, not only on
fences but on houses and arbors. In warm countries, vines give
character to bungalows, pergolas, and other individual forms of
architecture.
If it is desired that the vines climb high, the soil should be fertile;
but high climbing in annual plants (as in sweet peas) may be at the
expense of bloom.
The use of vines for screens and pillar decorations has increased in
recent years until now they may be seen in nearly all grounds. The
tendency has been towards using the hardy vines, of which the
ampelopsis, or Virginia creeper, is one of the most common. This is a
very rapid grower, and lends itself to training more readily than many
others. The Japan ampelopsis (_A. tricuspidata_ or _Veitchii_) is a
good clinging vine, growing very rapidly when once established, and
brilliantly colored after the first fall frosts. It clings closer than
the other, but is not so hardy. Either of these may be grown from
cuttings or division of the plants.
Two recommendable woody twiners of recent distribution are the
actinidia and the akebia, both from Japan. They are perfectly hardy,
and are rapid growers. The former has large thick glossy leaves, not
affected by insects or disease, growing thickly along the stem and
branches, making a perfect thatch. It blooms in June. The flowers,
which are white with a purple center, are borne in clusters, followed
by round or longish edible fruits. The akebia has very neat-cut
foliage, quaint purple flowers, and often bears ornamental fruit.
Of the tender vines, the nasturtiums and ipomeas and morning-glories
are the most common in the North, while the adlumia, balloon vine,
passion vine, gourds, and others, are frequently used. One of the best
of recent introduction is the annual hop, especially the variegated
variety. This is a very rapid-growing vine, seeding itself each year,
and needing little care. The climbing geraniums (_Pelargonium peltatum_
and its derivatives) are much used in California. All the tender vines
should be planted after danger of frost is past.
So many good vines are now on the market that one may grow a wide
variety for many uses. The home gardener should keep his eyes open for
the wild vines of his neighborhood and add the best of them to his
collection. Most of these natives are worthy of cultivation. Even the
poison ivy makes a very satisfactory cover for rough and inaccessible
places in the wild, and its autumn color is very attractive; but of
course its cultivation cannot be recommended.
Vines that cling closely to walls of buildings are Virginia creeper
(one form does not cling well), Boston or Japanese ivy _(Ampelopsis
tricuspidata_; also _A. Lowii_, with smaller foliage), English ivy,
euonymus _(E. radicans_ and the var. _variegata_), and _Ficus repens_
far south; others that cling less closely are trumpet creeper, and
climbing hydrangea _(Schizophragma hydrangeoides)._
Vines for trailing, or covering the ground, are periwinkle _(Vinca),_
herniaria, moneywort _(Lysimachia nummularia_), ground-ivy _(Nepeta
Glechoma), Rosa Wichuraiana_, species of native greenbrier or smilax
(not the so-called smilax of florists), _Rubus laciniatus_, dewberries,
and also others that usually are not classed as vines. In the South,
Japanese honeysuckle and Cherokee rose perform this function
extensively. In California, species of mesembryanthemum (herbaceous)
are extensively used as ground covers on banks. Page 86.
For quickly covering brush and rough places, the many kinds of gourds
may be used; also pumpkins and squashes, watermelons, _Cucumis
fœtidissima_, wild cucumbers _(Echinocystis lobata_ and _Sicyos
angulata_), nasturtiums, and other vigorous annuals. Many of the woody
perennials may be used for such purposes, but usually these places are
only temporary.
For arbors, strong woody vines are desired. Grapes are excellent; in
the South the muscadine and scuppernong grapes are adaptable to this
purpose (Plate XV). Actinidia and wistaria are also used. Akebia,
dutchman’s pipe, trumpet creeper, clematis, honeysuckles, may be
suggested. Roses are much used in warm climates.
For covering porches, the standard vine in the North is Virginia
creeper. Grapes are admirable, particularly some of the wild ones.
Japan honeysuckle is much used; and it has the advantage of holding its
foliage well into the winter, or even all winter southward. Actinidia,
akebia, wistaria, roses, dutch-man’s pipe, and clematis are to be
recommended; the large-flowered clematises, however, are more valuable
for their bloom than for their foliage (_C. paniculata_, and the native
species are better for covering porches).
The annual vines are mostly used as flower-garden subjects, as the
sweet pea, morning-glories, mina, moonflowers, cypress vine,
nasturtiums, cobea, scarlet runner. Several species of convolvulus,
closely allied to the common morning-glory, have now enriched our
lists. For baskets and vases the maurandia and the different kinds of
thunbergias are excellent.
The moonflowers are very popular in the South, where the seasons are
long enough to allow them to develop to perfection. In the North they
must be started early (it is a good plan to soak or notch the seeds)
and be given a warm exposure and good soil (see in Chap. VIII).
In the following lists, the plants native to the United States or
Canada are marked by an asterisk *.
_Annual herbaceous climbers_.
(Grown each year from seed.)
_a. Tendril-climbers_
Adlumia (biennial).*
Balloon Vine _(Cardiospermum)_.*
Cobea.
Gourds.
Nasturtiums _(Tropaeolum)._
Canary-bird Flower _(Tropaeolum peregrinum_).
Sweet pea (Fig. 265).
Wild cucumber.*
Maurandia.
Gourds or gourd-like plants, as, _Coccinia Indica_; Cucumis of several
interesting species, as _C. erinaceus, grossulariœformis,
odoratissimus_; dipper or bottle gourd _(Lagenaria)_;
vegetable sponge, dish-cloth gourd, rag gourd _(Luffa);_ balsam apple,
balsam pear _(Momordica)_; snake gourd _(Trichosanthes)_; bryonopsis;
_Abobra viridiflora_.
All the above except sweet pea are quickly cut down by frost.
_b. Twiners_
Beans, Flowering.
Cypress vine.
Dolichos Lablab, and others.
Hop, Japanese.
Ipomcea Quamoclit (cypress vine) and others.
Moonflower, several species.
Morning-glory.
Mina lobata.
Thunbergia.
Mikania scandens.*
Butterfly pea, _Centrosema Virginiana_.*
Scarlet runner, _Phaseolus multiflorus_ (perennial South).
Velvet or banana bean, _Mucuna pruriens_ var. _utilis_ (for the South).
[Illustration: Fig. 265. Sweet pea.]
_Perennial herbaceous climbers_.
(The tops dying down in fall, but the root living over winter and
sending up a new top.)
_a. Tendril-climbers or root-climbers_
Everlasting pea, _Lathyrus latifolius_. Clematis of various species, as
_C. aromatica, Davidiana, heracleaefolia (C. tubulosa_), are more or
less climbing. Most of the clematises
are shrubs.
May-pop, _Passiflora incarnata_.* Not reliable north of Virginia.
Wild Gourd, _Cucurbita fœtidissima (Cucumis perennius_).* Excellent
strong rugged vine for covering piles on the ground.
Mexican rose, mountain rose, _Antigonon leptopus_.
Root tuberous; a rampant grower, with pink bloom; outdoors South, and a
conservatory plant North.
Kenilworth ivy, _Linaria Cymbalaria_.
A very graceful little perennial vine, re-sowing itself even where not
hardy; favorite for baskets.
_b. Herbaceous twiners_
Hop, _Humulus Lupulus_.*
Produces the hops of commerce, but should be in common use as an
ornamental plant.
Chinese yam, cinnamon vine, _Dioscorea divaricata (D. Batatas_).
Climbs high, but does not produce as much foliage as some other vines.
Wild yam, _D. villosa_.*
Smaller than the preceding; otherwise fully as good.
[Illustration: Fig. 266. Clematis Henryi. One-third natural size.]
Ground-nut, _Apios tuberosa_.*
A bean-like vine, producing many chocolate-brown flowers in August and
September.
Scarlet runner and White Dutch runner beans, _Phaseolus multiflorus_.
Perennial in warm countries; annual in the North.
Moonflowers, _Ipomcea_, various species.
Some are perennials far South, but annual North.
Hardy moonflower, _Ipomœa pandurata_.*
A weed where it grows wild, but an excellent vine for some purposes.
Wild morning-glory, Rutland beauty, _Convolvulus Sepium_* and
California rose, _C. Japonicus_.
The former, white and pink, is common in swales. The latter, in double
or semi-double form, is often run wild.
Madeira vine, mignonette vine, _Boussingaultia baselloides_.
Root a large, tough, irregular tuber.
Mikania, climbing hempweed, _Mikania scandens_.*
A good compositous twiner, inhabiting moist lands.
_Woody perennial climbers_.
(Climbing shrubs, the tops not dying down in fall except in climates in
which they are not hardy.)
_a. Tendril-climbers, root-climbers, scramblers, and trailers_
Virginia creeper, _Ampelopsis quinquefolia_,*
The best vine for covering buildings in the colder climates. Plants
should be selected from vines of known habit, as some individuals cling
much better than others. Var. _hirsuta_,* strongly clinging, is
recommended by the experimental station at Ottawa, Canada. Var.
_Engelmanni_* has small and neat foliage.
Japanese ivy, Boston ivy, _A. tricuspidata (A. Veitchii_).
Handsomer than the Virginia creeper, and clings closer, but is often
injured by winter in exposed places, especially when young; in northern
regions, tops should be protected for first year or two.
Variegated ivy, _Ampelopsis heterophylla_ var. _elegans_ (_Cissus
variegata_).
Handsome delicate hardy grape-like vines with mostly three-lobed
blotched leaves and bluish berries.
Garden clematis, _Clematis_ of various species and varieties.
Plants of robust and attractive habit, and gorgeous blooms; many garden
forms. _C. Jackmani_, and its varieties, is one of the best. _C.
Henryi_ (Fig. 266) is excellent for white flowers. Clematises bloom in
July and August.
Wild clematis, _C. Virginiana_*
Very attractive for arbors and for covering rude objects. The
pistillate plants bear curious woolly balls of fruit.
Wild clematis, _C. verticillaris_.*
Less vigorous grower than the last, but excellent.
Japanese clematis, _C. paniculata_.
The best late-blooming woody vine, producing enormous masses of white
flowers in late summer and early fall.
Trumpet creeper, _Tecoma radicans_.*
One of the best of all free-flowering shrubs; climbs by means of roots;
flowers very large, orange-scarlet.
Chinese trumpet creeper, _T. grandiflora (Bignonia grandiflora_).
Flowers orange-red; sometimes scarcely climbing.
Bignonia, _Bignonia capreolata_.*
A good strong evergreen vine, but often a nuisance in fields in the
South.
Frost grape, _Vitis cordifolia_.*
One of the finest of all vines. It is a very tall grower, producing
thick, heavy, dark leaves. Its foliage often reminds one of that of the
moon-seed. Does not grow readily from cuttings.
Summer and river-bank grapes, _V. bicolor_* and _V. vulpina
(riparia)_.*
The common wild grapes of the Northern states.
Muscadine, scuppernong, _Vitis rotundifolia_.*
Much used for arbors in the Southern states (Plate XV).
Ivy, _Hedera Helix_.
The European ivy does not endure the bright sun of our winter; on the
north side of a building it often does well; the best of vines for
covering buildings, where it succeeds; hardy in favorable localities as
far north as southern Ontario; many forms.
Greenbrier, _Smilax rotundifolia_* and _S. hispida_.*
Unique for the covering of small arbors and summer-houses.
Euonymus, _E. radicans_.
A very close-clinging root-climber, excellent for low walls; evergreen;
the variegated variety is good.
Climbing fig, _Ficus repens_.
Used in greenhouses North, but is hardy far South.
Matrimony vine, boxthorn, _Lycium Chinense_.
Flowering all summer; flowers rose-pink and buff, axillary, star-like,
succeeded by scarlet berries in the fall; stems prostrate, or
scrambling; an old-fashioned vine on porches.
Bitter-sweet, _Solanum Dulcamara_.
A common scrambling or semi-twining vine along roadsides, with
brilliant red poisonous berries; top dies down or nearly so.
Periwinkles, _Vinca minor_ and _V. major_.
The former is the familiar trailing evergreen myrtle, with blue flowers
in early spring; in its variegated form the latter is much used for
hanging baskets and vases.
Climbing hydrangea, _Schizophragma hydrangeoides_.
Clings to walls by rootlets, producing white flowers in midsummer.
Passion-flower, species of _Passiflora_ and _Tacsonia_.
Used in the South and in California.
_b. Woody twiners_
Actinidia, _A. arguta_.
Very strong grower, with beautiful thick foliage that is not attacked
by insects or fungi; one of the best vines for arbors.
Akebia, _A. quinata_. Very handsome and odd Japanese vine; a strong
grower, and worthy general planting.
Honeysuckles, woodbine, _Lonicera_ of many kinds.
Japanese honeysuckle, _L. Halliana_ (a form of _L. Japonica_).
10-20 ft.; flowers, white and buff, fragrant mainly in spring and fall;
leaves small, evergreen; stems prostrate and rooting, or twining and
climbing. Trellises, or for covering rocks and bare places; extensively
run wild in the South. Var. _aurea reticidata_ is similar to the type,
but with handsome golden appearance.
Belgian Honeysuckle, L. _Periclymenum_ var. _Belgica_.
6-10 ft.; monthly; flowers in clusters, rosy red, buff within; makes a
large, rounded bush.
Coral or trumpet honeysuckle, _L. sempervirens_.*
6-15 ft.; June; scattering scarlet flowers through the summer; with no
support makes a large rounded bush; for trellises, fences, or a hedge;
it is one of the list of hardy trees and shrubs recommended for Canada
by the Experiment Station at Ottawa.
Honeysuckle, _L. Caprifolium_, with cup-like connate leaves.
Good native climbing honeysuckles are _L. flava_,* _Sullivanti_,*
_hirsuta_,* _dioica_,* and _Douglasi_.*
Wistaria, _Wistaria Sinensis_ and _W. speciosa_.*
The Chinese species, _Sinensis_, is a superb plant; flowers
blue-purple; there is a white-flowered variety.
Japanese wistaria, _W. multijuga_.
Flowers smaller and later than the Chinese, in looser racemes.
Dutchman’s pipe, _Aristolochia macrophytta (A. Sipho_).* A robust
grower, possessing enormous leaves. Useful for covering verandas and
arbors.
Wax-work or false bitter-sweet, _Celastrus scandens_.* Very ornamental
in fruit; flowers imperfect.
Japanese celastrus, _C. orbiculatus (C. articulatus_ of the trade). _C.
articulatus_ and _C. scandens_ are in the list of 100 trees and shrubs
recommended by the Experiment Station at Ottawa for Canada.
Moonseed, _Menispermum Canadense_.* A small but very attractive twiner,
useful for thickets and small arbors.
Bokhara climbing polygonum, _Polygonum Baldschuanicum_. Hardy North,
although the young growth may be killed; flowers numerous, minute,
whitish; interesting, but does not make a heavy cover.
Kudzu vine, _Pueraria Thunbergiana (Dolichos Japonicus_). Makes very
long growths from a tuberous root; shrubby South, but dies to the
ground in the North.
Silk vine, _Periploca Græca_. Purplish flowers in axillary clusters;
long, narrow, shining leaves; rapid growing.
Potato vine, _Solanum jasminoides_. A good evergreen vine South,
particularly the var. _grandiflorum_.
Yellow jasmine, _Gelsemium sempervirens_.* A good native evergreen vine
for the South, with fragrant yellow flowers.
Malayan jasmine, _Trachelospermum_ (or _Rhynchospermum) jasminoides_. A
good evergreen vine for the South and in California.
Climbing asparagus, _Asparagus plumosus_. Popular as an outdoor vine
far South and in California.
Jasmines, _Jasminum_ of several species. The best known in gardens are
_J. nudiflorum_, yellow in earliest spring, _J. officinale_, the
jessamine of poetry, with white flowers, and _J. Sambac_, the Arabian
jasmine (and related species) with white flowers and unbranched leaves;
these are not hardy without much protection north of Washington or
Philadelphia, and _J. Sambac_ only far South.
Bougainvillea, _Bougainvillaea glabra_ and _B. spectabilis_.
The magenta-flowered variety, sometimes seen in conservatories in the
North, is a popular outdoor vine in the South and is profusely used in
southern California. The red-flowered form is less seen, but is
preferable in color.
Wire-vine (polygonum of florists), _Muehlenbeckia complexa_.
Abundantly used on buildings and chimneys in southern California.
XV: Scuppernong grape, the arbor vine of the South. This plate shows
the noted scuppernongs on Roanoke Island, of which the origin is
unknown, but which were of great size more than one hundred years ago.
XV: Scuppernong grape, the arbor vine of the South. This plate shows
the noted scuppernongs on Roanoke Island, of which the origin is
unknown, but which were of great size more than one hundred years ago.
_Climbing roses_.
[Illustration: 267. Climbing rose, Jules Margottin.]
The roses do not climb nor possess any special climbing organs;
therefore they must be provided with a trellis or woven-wire fence.
Some of the roses classed as climbing are such as only need good
support, Fig. 267. For culture of roses, see Chapter VIII.
The most popular climbing or pillar rose at present is Crimson Rambler,
but while it makes a great display of flowers, it is not the best
climbing rose. Probably the best of the real climbing roses for this
country, bloom, foliage, and habit all considered, are the derivatives
of the native prairie rose, _Rosa setigera_ (native as far north as
Ontario and Wisconsin). Baltimore Belle and Queen of the Prairie belong
to this class.
The climbing polyantha roses (hybrids of _Rosa multiflora_ and other
species) include the class of “rambler” roses that has now come to be
large, including not only the Crimson Rambler, but forms of other
colors, single and semi-double, and various climbing habits; a very
valuable and hardy class of roses, particularly for trellises.
The Memorial rose _(R. Wichuraiana_) is a trailing, half-evergreen,
white-flowered species, very useful for covering banks and rocks.
Derivatives of this species of many kinds are now available, and are
valuable.
The Ayrshire roses _(R. arvensis_ var. _capreolata_) are profuse but
rather slender growers, hardy North, bearing double white or pink
flowers.
The Cherokee rose _(R. Icevigata_ or _R. Sinica_) is extensively
naturalized in the South, and much prized for its large white bloom and
shining foliage; not hardy in the North.
The Banksia rose _(R. Banksice_) is a strong climbing rose for the
South and California with yellow or white flowers in clusters. A
larger-flowered form _(R. Fortuneana_) is a hybrid of this and the
Cherokee rose.
The climbing tea and noisette roses, forms of _R. Chinensis_ and _R.
Noisettiana_, are useful in the open in the South.
7. TREES FOR LAWNS AND STREETS
A single tree may give character to an entire home property; and a
place of any size that does not have at least one good tree usually
lacks any dominating landscape note.
Likewise, a street that is devoid of good trees cannot be the best
residential section; and a park that lacks well-grown trees is either
immature or barren.
Although the list of good and hardy lawn and street trees is rather
extensive, the number of kinds generally planted and recognized is
small. Since most home places can have but few trees, and since they
require so many years to mature, it is natural that the home-maker
should hesitate about experimenting, or trying kinds that he does not
himself know. So the home-maker in the North plants maples, elms, and a
white birch, and in the South a magnolia and China-berry. Yet there are
numbers of trees as useful as these, the planting of which might give
our premises and streets a much richer expression.
It is much to be desired that some of the trees with “strong” and
rugged characters be introduced into the larger grounds; such, for
example, as the hickories and oaks. These may often transplant with
difficulty, but the effort to secure them is worth the expenditure.
Good trees of oaks, and others supposed to be difficult to transplant,
may now be had of the leading nurserymen. The pin oak _(Quercus
palustris_) is one of the best street trees and is now largely planted.
It is at least possible to introduce a variety of trees into a city or
village, by devoting one street or a series of blocks to a single kind
of tree,—one street being known by its lindens, one by its plane-trees,
one by its oaks, one by its hickories, one by its native birches,
beech, coffee-tree, sassafras, gum or liquidambar, tulip tree, and the
like. There is every reason why a city, particularly a small city or a
village, should become to some extent an artistic expression of its
natural region.
The home-maker is fortunate if his area already possesses well-grown
large trees. It may even be desirable to place the residence with
reference to such trees (Plate VI); and the planning of the grounds
should accept them as fixed points to which to work. The operator will
take every care to preserve and safeguard sufficient of the standing
trees to give the place singularity and character.
The care of the tree should include not only the protecting of it from
enemies and accidents, but also the maintaining of its characteristic
features. For example, the natural rough bark should be maintained
against the raids of tree-scrapers; and the grading should not be
allowed to disguise the natural bulge of the tree at the base, for a
tree that is covered a foot or two above the natural line is not only
in danger of being killed, but it looks like a post.
The best shade trees are usually those that are native to the
particular region, since they are hardy and adapted to the soil and
other conditions. Elms, maples, basswoods, and the like are nearly
always reliable. In regions in which there are serious insect enemies
or fungous diseases, the trees that are most likely to be attacked may
be omitted. For instance, in parts of the East the chestnut
bark-disease is a very great menace; and it is a good plan in such
places to plant other trees than chestnuts.
A good shade tree is one that has a heavy foliage and dense head, and
that is not commonly attacked by repelling insects and diseases. Trees
for shade should ordinarily be given sufficient room that they may
develop into full size and symmetrical heads. Trees may be planted as
close as 10 or 15 feet apart for temporary effect; but as soon as they
begin to crowd they should be thinned, so that they develop their full
characteristics as trees.
Trees may be planted in fall or spring. Fall is desirable, except for
the extreme North, if the land is well drained and prepared and if the
trees may be got in early; but under usual conditions, spring planting
is safer, if the stock has been wintered well (see discussion under
Shrubs, p. 290). Planting and pruning are discussed on pp. 124 and 139.
If one desires trees with conspicuous bloom, they should be found among
the magnolias, tulip trees, kœlreuteria, catalpas, chestnuts,
horse-chestnut and buckeyes, cladrastis, black or yellow locust, wild
black cherry, and less conspicuously in the lindens; and also in such
half-trees or big shrubs as cercis, cytisus, flowering dogwood,
double-flowered and other forms of apples, crab-apples, cherries,
plums, peaches, hawthorn or cratægus, amelanchier, mountain ash.
Among drooping or weeping trees the best may be found in the willows
_(Salix Babylonica_ and others), maples (Wier’s), birch, mulberry,
beech, ash, elm, cherry, poplar, mountain ash.
Purple-leaved varieties occur in the beech, maple, elm, oak, birch, and
others.
Yellow-leaved and tricolors occur in the maple, oak, poplar, elm,
beech, and other species.
Cut-leaved forms are found in birch, beech, maple, alder, oak,
basswood, and others.
_List of hardy deciduous trees for the North_.
(The genera are arranged alphabetically. Natives are marked by *; good
species for shade trees by †; those recommended by the Experiment
Station at Ottawa, Ontario, by DD)
In a number of the genera, the plants may be shrubby rather than
arboreus in some regions (see the Shrub list), as in acer _(A. Ginnala,
A. spicatum_), æsculus, betula _(B. pumila_), carpinus, castanea (_C.
pumila_), catalpa _(C. ovata_), cercis, magnolia (_M. glauca_
particularly), ostrya, prunus, pyrus, salix, sorbus.
Norway maple, _Acer platanoides_.(D, DD) One of the finest medium-sized
trees for single lawn specimens; there are several horticultural
varieties. Var. _Schwedleri_‡ is one of the best of purple-leaved
trees. The Norway maple droops too much and is too low-headed for
roadside planting.
Black sugar maple, _A. nigrum_.(A, DD) Darker and softer in aspect than
the ordinary sugar maple.
Sugar maple, _A. saccharum_.(A, DD) This and the last are among the
very best roadside trees.
Silver maple, _A. saccharinum (A. dasycarpum_).(A, DD) Desirable for
water-courses and for grouping; succeeds on both wet and dry lands.
Wier’s cut-leaved silver maple, _A. saccharinum_ var. _Wieri_.(D, DD)
Light and graceful; especially desirable for pleasure grounds.
Red, soft, or swamp maple, _A. rubrum_.* Valuable for its spring and
autumn colors, and for variety in grouping.
Sycamore maple, _A. Pseudo-platanus._ A slow grower, to be used mostly
as single specimens. Several horticultural varieties.
English maple, _A. campestre_. A good medium-sized tree of slow growth,
not hardy on our northern borders; see under Shrubs (p. 291).
Japan maple, _A. palmatum (A. polymorphum)_. In many forms, useful for
small lawn specimens; does not grow above 10-20 ft.
Siberian maple, _A. Ginnala_.‡ Attractive as a lawn specimen when grown
as a bush; the autumn color is very bright; small tree or big shrub.
Mountain maple, _A. spicatum_.* Very bright in autumn.
Box-elder, _Acer Negundo (Negundo aceroides_ or _fraxinifolium_).*†
Very hardy and rapid growing; much used in the West as a windbreak, but
not strong in ornamental features.
Horse chestnut, _Æsculus Hippocastanum_.†‡ Useful for single specimens
and roadsides; many forms.
Buckeye, _Æ. octandra (Æ. flava)_*‡
Ohio buckeye, _Æ. glabra_*
Red buckeye, _Æ. cornea (Æ. rubicunda)_.
Ailanthus, _Ailanthus glandulosa_. A rapid grower, with large pinnate
leaves; the staminate plant possesses a disagreeable odor when it
flowers; suckers badly; most useful as a shrub; see the same under
Shrubs (also Fig. 50).
Alder, _Alnus glutinosa_. The var. _imperialis_‡ is one of the best
cut-leaved small trees.
European birch, _Betula alba_.
Cut-leaved weeping birch, _B. alba_ var. _laciniata pendula_.‡
American white birch, _B. populifolia_.*
Paper, or canoe birch, _B. papyrifera_.*
Cherry birch, _B. lenta_. *
Well-grown specimens resemble the sweet cherry; both this and the
yellow birch (_B. lutea_*) make attractive light-leaved trees; they are
not appreciated.
Hornbeam or blue beech, _Carpinus Americana_.* Chestnut, _Castanea
saliva_† and _C. Americana_.*†
Showy catalpa, _Catalpa speciosa_.†‡ Very dark, soft-foliaged tree of
small to medium size; showy in flower; for northern regions should be
raised from northern-grown seed.
Smaller catalpa, _C. bignonioides_.† Less showy than the last, blooming
a week or two later; less hardy.
Japanese catalpa, _C. ovata_ (_C. Kœmpferi_).‡ In northern sections
often remains practically a bush.
Nettle-tree, _Celtis occidentalis_.*
Katsura-tree, _Cercidiphyllum Japonicum_.‡ A small or medium-sized tree
of very attractive foliage and habit.
Red-bud, or Judas-tree, _Cercis Canadensis_.* Produces a profusion of
rose-purple pea-like flowers before the leaves appear; foliage also
attractive.
Yellow-wood, or virgilia, _Cladrastis tinctoria_.* One of the finest
hardy flowering trees.
Beech, _Fagus ferruginea_.*† Specimens which are symmetrically
developed are among our best lawn trees; picturesque in winter.
European beech, _F. sylvatica_.† Many cultural forms, the purple-leaved
being everywhere known. There are excellent tricolored varieties and
weeping forms.
Black ash, _Fraxinus nigra_ (_F. sambucifolia_).*† One of the best of
the light-leaved trees; does well on dry soils, although native to
swamps; not appreciated.
White ash, _F. Americana_.*†
European ash, _F. excelsior_.† There is a good weeping form of this.
Maiden-hair tree, _Ginkgo biloba_ (_Salisburia adiantifolia_).‡ Very
odd and striking; to be used for single specimens or avenues.
Honey locust, _Gleditschia triacanthos_.*† Tree of striking habit, with
big branching thorns and very large pods; there is also a thornless
form.
Kentucky coffee-tree, _Gymnocladus Canadensis_.* Light and graceful;
unique in winter.
Bitternut, _Hicoria minima_ (or _Carya amara_).* Much like black ash in
aspect; not appreciated.
Hickory, _Hicoria ovata_ (or _Carya_) *†‡ and others.
Pecan, _H. Pecan_.*† Hardy in places as far north as New Jersey, and
reported still farther.
Butternut, _Juglans cinerea_.*
Walnut, _J. nigra_.*
Varnish-tree, _Kœlreuteria paniculata_. A medium-sized tree of good
character, producing a profusion of golden-yellow flowers in July;
should be better known.
European larch, _Larix decidua (L. Europœa_).‡
American larch or tamarack, _L. Americana_.*
Gum-tree, sweet gum, _Liquidambar styraciflua_.*† A good tree, reaching
as far north as Connecticut, and hardy in parts of western New York
although not growing large; foliage maple-like; a characteristic tree
of the South.
Tulip tree or whitewood, _Liriodendron Tulipifera_.*† Unique in foliage
and flower and deserving to be more planted.
Cucumber tree, _Magnolia acuminata_.*† Native in the Northern states;
excellent.
White bay-tree, _M. glauca_.*† Very attractive small tree, native along
the coast to Massachusetts; where not hardy, the young growth each year
is good.
Of the foreign magnolias hardy in the North, two species and one group
of hybrids are prominent: _M. stellata_ (or _M. Halleana_) and _M.
Yulan_ or _(M. conspicua),_ both white-flowered, the former very early
and having 9-18 petals and the latter (which is a larger tree) having
6-9 petals; _M. Soulangeana,_ a hybrid group including the forms known
as _Lennei, nigra, Norbertiana, speciosa, grandis_. All these magnolias
are deciduous and bloom before the leaves appear.
Mulberry, _Morus rubra_.*
White mulberry, _M. alba_.
Russian mulberry, _M. alba_ var. _Tatarica_. Teas’ weeping mulberry is
a form of the Russian.
Pepperidge or gum-tree, _Nyssa sylvatica_* One of the oddest and most
picturesque of our native trees; especially attractive in winter;
foliage brilliant red in autumn; most suitable for low lands.
Iron-wood, hop hornbeam, _Ostrya Virginica_.* A good small tree, with
hop-like fruits.
Sourwood, sorrel-tree, _Oxydendrum arboreum_.* Interesting small tree
native from Pennsylvania in the high land south, and should be reliable
where it grows wild.
Plane or buttonwood, _Platanus occidentalis_*†‡ Young or middle-aged
trees are soft and pleasant in aspect, but they soon become thin and
ragged below; unique in winter.
European plane-tree, _P. orientalis_.† Much used for street planting,
but less picturesque than the American; several forms.
Aspen, _Populus tremuloides_,* Very valuable when well grown; too much
neglected (Fig. 33). Most of the poplars are suitable for pleasure
grounds, and as nurses for slower growing and more emphatic trees.
Large-toothed aspen, _P. grandidentata_.* Unique in summer color;
heavier in aspect than the above; old trees become ragged.
Weeping poplar, _P. grandidentata_, var. _pendula_. An odd, small tree,
suitable for small places, but, like all weeping trees, likely to be
planted too freely.
Cottonwood, _P. deltoides_ (_P. monilifera_).* The staminate specimens,
only, should be planted if possible, as the cotton of the seed-pods is
disagreeable when carried by winds; var. _aurea_‡ is one of the good
golden-leaved trees.
Balm of Gilead, _P. balsamifera_* and var. _candicans_.* Desirable for
remote groups or belts. Foliage not pleasant in color.
Lombardy poplar, _P. nigra_, var. _Italica_.
Desirable for certain purposes, but used too indiscriminately, it is
likely to be short-lived in northern climates.
White poplar, abele, _P. alba_.
Sprouts badly; several forms.
Bolle’s poplar, _P. alba_, var. _Bolleana_.
Habit much like the Lombardy; leaves curiously lobed, very white
beneath, making a pleasant contrast.
Certinensis poplar, _P. laurifolia_ (_P. Certinensis_).
A very hardy Siberian species, much like _P. deltoides_, useful for
severe climates.
Wild black cherry, _Prunus serotina_.*
European bird cherry, _Prunus Padus_.
A small tree much like the choke cherry, but a freer grower, with
larger flowers, and racemes which appear about a week later.
Choke cherry, _P. Virginiana_.*
Very showy while in flower.
Purple plum, _Prunus cerasifera_, var. _atropurpurea_ (var.
_Pissardi_).
One of our most reliable purple-leaved trees.
Rose-bud cherry, _P. pendula_ (_P. subhirtella_).
A tree of drooping habit and beautiful rose-pink flowers preceding the
leaves.
Japanese flowering cherry, _P. Pseudo-Cerasus._
In many forms, the famous flowering cherries of Japan, but not reliable
North.
There are ornamental-flowered peaches and cherries, more curious and
interesting than useful.
Wild crab, _Pyrus coronaria_* and _P. Iœnsis_.*
Very showy while in flower, blooming after apple blossoms have fallen;
old specimens become picturesque in form. _P. Iœnsis flore pleno_‡
(Bechtel’s Crab) is a handsome double form.
Siberian crab, _P. baccata_.‡ Excellent small tree, both in flower and
fruit.
Flowering crab, _Pyrus floribunda_. Pretty both in flower and fruit; a
large shrub or small tree; various forms.
Hall’s crab, _P. Halliana_ (_P. Parkmani_). One of the best of the
flowering crabs, particularly the double form. Various forms of
double-flowering apple are on the market.
Swamp white oak, _Quercus bicolor_.*† A desirable tree, usually
neglected; very picturesque in winter.
Bur oak, _Q. macrocarpa_.*†
Chestnut oak, _Q. Prinus_,*† and especially the closely related _Q.
Muhlenbergii_ (or _Q. acuminata_).*†
White oak, _Q. alba_*†
Shingle oak, _Q. imbricaria_.*†
Scarlet oak, _Q. coccinea_.*† This and the next two are glossy-leaved,
and are desirable for bright planting.
Black oak, _Q. velutina_ (_Q. tinctoria_).*†
Red oak, _Q. rubra_.*†‡
Pin oak, _Q. palustris_.*† Excellent for avenues; transplants well.
Willow oak, _Q. Phellos_*
English oak, _Q. Robur_. Many forms represented by two types, probably
good species, _Q. pedunculata_ (with stalked acorns) and _Q.
sessiliflora_ (with stalkless acorns). Some of the forms are reliable
in the Northern states.
The oaks are slow growers and usually transplant with difficulty.
Natural specimens are most valuable. A large well-grown oak is one of
the grandest of trees.
Locust, _Robinia Pseudacacia_.*† Attractive in flower; handsome as
single specimens when young; many forms; used also for hedges.
Peach-leaved willow, _Salix amygdaloides_.* Very handsome small tree,
deserving more attention. This and the next valuable in low places or
along water-courses.
Black willow, _S. nigra_.*
Weeping willow, _S. Babylonica_.
To be planted sparingly, preferably near water; the sort known as the
Wisconsin weeping willow appears to be much hardier than the common
type; many forms.
White willow, _S. alba_, and various varieties, one of which is the
Golden willow.
Tree willows are most valuable, as a rule, when used for temporary
plantations or as nurses for better trees.
Laurel-leaved willow, _S. laurifolia_‡
A small tree used in cold regions for shelter-belts; also a good
ornamental tree. See also under Shrubs.
Sassafras, _Sassafras officinalis_.*†
Suitable in the borders of groups or for single specimens; peculiar in
winter; too much neglected.
Rowan or European mountain ash, _Sorbus Aucuparia_ (_Pyrus
Aucuparia_).‡
Service-tree, _S. domestica_.
Fruit handsomer than that of the mountain ash and more persistent;
small tree.
Oak-leaved mountain ash, _S. hybrida_ (_S. quercifolia_).
Small tree, deserving to be better known.
Bald cypress, _Taxodium distichum_.*
Not entirely hardy at Lansing, Mich.; often becomes scraggly after
fifteen or twenty years, but a good tree; many cultural forms.
American linden or basswood, _Tilia Americana_.*†
Very valuable for single trees on large lawns, or for roadsides.
European linden, _T. vulgaris_ and _T. platyphyllos_ (_T. Europaea_ of
nurserymen is probably usually the latter).†
Has the general character of the American basswood.
European silver linden, _T. tomentosa_ and varieties.†
Very handsome; leaves silvery white beneath; among others is a weeping
variety.
American elm, _Ulmus Americana_.*†
One of the most graceful and variable of trees; useful for many
purposes and a standard street tree.
Cork elm, _U. racemosa_.* Softer in aspect than the last, and more
picturesque in winter, having prominent ridges of bark on its branches;
slow grower.
Red or slippery elm, _U. fulva_.* Occasionally useful in a group or
shelter-belt; a stiff grower.
English elm, _U. campestris_, and Scotch or wych elm, _U. scabra_ (_U.
mantana_). Often planted, but are inferior to _U. Americana_ for street
planting, although useful in collections. These have many horticultural
forms.
_Non-coniferous trees for the South_.
Among deciduous trees for the region of Washington and south may be
mentioned: Acer, the American and European species as for the North;
_Catalpa bignonioides_ and especially _C. speciosa_; celtis; cercis,
both American and Japanese; flowering dogwood, profusely native; white
ash; ginkgo; kœlreuteria; sweet gum (liquidambar); American linden;
tulip tree; magnolias much as for the North; China-berry (_Melia
Azedarach_); Texas umbrella-tree (var. _umbraculiformis_ of the
preceding); mulberries; oxydendrum; paulownia; oriental plane-tree;
native oaks of the regions; _Robinia Pseudacacia_; weeping willow;
_Sophora Japonica; Sterculia platanifolia_; American elm.
Broad-leaved evergreens of real tree size useful for the South may be
found among the cherry laurels, magnolias, and oaks. Among the cherry
laurels are: Portugal laurel (_Prunus Lusitanica_), English cherry
laurel in several forms (_P. Laurocerasus_), and the “mock-orange” or
“wild orange” (_P. Caroliniana_). In magnolia, the splendid _M.
grandiflora_ is everywhere used. In oaks, the live-oak (_Quercus
Virginiana_, known also as _Q. virens_ and _Q. sempervirens_) is the
universal species. The cork oak (_Q. Suber_) is also recommended.
XVI: The flower-garden of China asters with border, one of the dusty
millers (_Centaurea_). XVI: The flower-garden of China asters with
border, one of the dusty millers (_Centaurea_).
8. CONIFEROUS EVERGREEN SHRUBS AND TREES
In this country the word “evergreen” is understood to mean coniferous
trees with persistent leaves, as pines, spruces, firs, cedars,
junipers, arborvitæ, retinosporas, and the like. These trees have
always been favorites with plant lovers, as they have very distinctive
forms and other characteristics. Many of them are of the easiest
culture.
It is a common notion that, since spruces and other conifers grow so
symmetrically, they will not stand pruning; but this is an error. They
may be pruned with as good effect as other trees, and if they tend to
grow too tall, the leader may be stopped without fear. A new leader
will arise, but in the meantime the upward growth of the tree will be
somewhat checked, and the effect will be to make the tree dense. The
tips of the branches may also be headed in with the same effect. The
beauty of an evergreen lies in its natural form; therefore, it should
not be sheared into unusual shapes, but a gentle trimming back, as I
suggested, will tend to prevent the Norway spruce and others from
growing open and ragged. After the tree attains some age, 4 or 5 in.
may be taken off the ends of the main branches every year or two (in
spring before growth begins) with good results. This slight trimming is
ordinarily done with Waters’s long-handled pruning shears.
There is much difference of opinion as to the proper time for the
transplanting of evergreens, which means that there is more than one
season in which they may be moved. It is ordinarily unsafe to
transplant them in the fall in northern climates or bleak situations,
since the evaporation from the foliage during the winter is likely to
injure the plant. The best results are usually secured in spring or
summer planting. In spring they may be moved rather late, just as new
growth is beginning. Some persons also plant them in August or early
September, as the roots secure a hold on the soil before winter. In the
Southern states transplanting may be done at most times of the year,
but late fall and early spring are usually advised.
In transplanting conifers, it is very important that the roots be not
exposed to the sun. They should be moistened and covered with burlaps
or other material. The holes should be ready to receive them. If the
trees are large, or if it has been necessary to trim in the roots, the
top should be cut when the tree is set.
Large evergreens (those 10 ft. and more high) are usually best
transplanted late in winter, at a time when a large ball of earth may
be moved with them. A trench is dug around the tree, it being deepened
a little day by day so that the frost can work into the earth and hold
it in shape. When the ball is thoroughly frozen, it is hoisted on to a
stone-boat or truck (Fig. 148) and moved to its new position.
Perhaps the handsomest of all the native conifers of the northeastern
United States is the ordinary hemlock, or hemlock spruce (the one so
much used for lumber); but it is usually difficult to move.
Transplanted trees from nurseries are usually safest. If the trees are
taken from the wild, they should be selected from open and sunny
places.
For neat and compact effects near porches and along walks, the dwarf
retinosporas are very useful.
Most of the pines and spruces are too coarse for planting very close to
the residence. They are better at some distance removed, where they
serve as a background to other planting. If they are wanted for
individual specimens, they should be given plenty of room, so that the
limbs will not be crowded and the tree become misshapen. Whatever else
is done to the spruces and firs, the lower limbs should not be trimmed
up, at least not until the tree has become so old that the lowest
branches die. Some species hold their branches much longer than others.
The oriental spruce (_Picea orientalis_) is one of the best in this
respect. The occasional slight heading-in, that has been mentioned,
will tend to preserve the lower limbs, and it will not be marked enough
to alter the form of the tree.
The number of excellent coniferous evergreens now offered in the
American trade is large. They are slow of growth and require much room
if good specimens are to be obtained; but if the space can be had and
the proper exposure secured, no trees add greater dignity and
distinction to an estate. Reliable comments on the rarer conifers may
be found in the catalogues of the best nurserymen.
_List of shrubby conifers_.
The following list contains the most usual of the shrub-like coniferous
evergreens, with * to mark those native to this country. The ‡ in this
and the succeeding list marks those species that are found to be hardy
at Ottawa, Ontario, and are recommended by the Central Experimental
Farm of Canada.
Dwarf arborvitæ, _Thuja occidentalis_.*
There are many dwarf and compact varieties of arborvitæ, most of which
are excellent for small places. The most desirable for general
purposes, and also the largest, is the so-called Siberian. Other very
desirable forms are those sold as _globosa, ericoides, compacta,‡
Hovey,‡ Ellwangeriana,‡ pyramidalis,‡ Wareana_ (or _Sibirica_),‡ and
_aurea Douglasii_.‡
Japanese arborvitæ or retinospora, _Chamœcyparis_ of various species.
Retinosporas‡ under names as follows: _Cupressus ericoides_, 2 ft.,
with fine soft delicate green foliage that assumes a purplish tinge in
winter; _C. pisifera,_ one of the best, with a pendulous habit and
bright green foliage; _C. pisifera_ var. _filifera_, with drooping
branches and thread-like pendulous branches; _C. pisifera_ var.
_plumosa_, more compact than _P. pisifera_ and feathery; var. _aurea_
of the last, “one of the most beautiful golden-leaved evergreen shrubs
in cultivation.”
Juniper, _Juniperus communis_* and garden varieties.
The juniper is a partially trailing plant, of loose habit, suitable for
banks and rocky places. There are upright and very formal varieties of
it, the best being those sold as var. _Hibernica (fastigiata)_,‡ “Irish
juniper,” and var. _Suecica_, “Swedish juniper.”
Northern juniper, _J. Sabina_, var. _prostrata_* One of the best of the
low, diffuse conifers; var. _tamariscifolia_,‡ 1-2 ft.
Chinese and Japanese junipers in many forms, _J. Chinensis_.
Dwarf Norway spruce, _Picea excelsa_, dwarf forms. Several very dwarf
sorts of the Norway spruce are in cultivation, some of which are to be
recommended.
Dwarf pine, _Pinus montana_, var. _pumilio_.
Mugho pine, _Pinus montana_, var. _Mughus_.‡ There are other desirable
dwarf pines.
Wild yew, _Taxus Canadensis_.* Common in woods; a wide-spreading plant
known as “ground hemlock”; 3-4 ft.
_Arboreous conifers_.
The evergreen conifers that one is likely to plant may be roughly
classed as pines; spruces and firs; cedars and junipers; arborvitæ;
yews.
White Pine, _Pinus Strobus_.*‡ The best native species for general
planting; retains its bright green color in winter.
Austrian pine, _P. Austriaca_.‡ Hardy, coarse, and rugged; suitable
only for large areas; foliage very dark.
Scotch pine, _P. sylvestris_.‡ Not so coarse as Austrian pine, with a
lighter and bluer foliage.
Red pine, P. _resinosa_*‡ Valuable in groups and belts; usually called
“Norway pine”; rather heavy in expression.
Bull pine, P. _ponderosa_.*‡ A strong majestic tree, deserving to be
better known in large grounds; native westward.
Cembrian pine, _Pinus Cembra_. A very fine slow-growing tree; one of
the few standard pines suitable for small places.
Scrub pine, _P. divaricata_ (_P. Banksiana_).*
A small tree, more odd and picturesque than beautiful, but desirable in
certain places.
Mugho pine, _P. montana_ var. _Mughus_.‡
Usually more a bush than a tree (2 to 12 ft.), although it may attain a
height of 20-30 ft.; mentioned under Shrubs.
Norway spruce, _Picea excelsa_.‡
The most commonly planted spruce; loses much of its peculiar beauty
when thirty to fifty years of age; several dwarf and weeping forms.
White spruce, _P. alba_.*‡
One of the finest of the spruces; a more compact grower than the last,
and not so coarse; grows slowly.
Oriental spruce, _P. orientalis_.
Especially valuable from its habit of holding its lowest limbs; grows
slowly; needs some shelter.
Colorado blue spruce, _P. pungens_.*‡
In color the finest of the conifers; grows slowly; seedlings vary much
in blueness.
Alcock’s spruce, _P. Alcockiana_.‡
Excellent; foliage has silvery under surfaces.
Hemlock spruce, _Tsuga Canadensis_.*
The common lumber hemlock, but excellent for hedges and as a lawn tree;
young trees may need partial protection from sun.
White fir, _Abies concolor_.*‡
Probably the best of the native firs for the northeastern region;
leaves broad, glaucous.
Nordmann’s fir, _A. Nordmanniana_.
Excellent in every way; leaves shining above and lighter beneath.
Balsam fir, _A. balsamea_.*
Loses most of its beauty in fifteen or twenty years.
Douglas fir, _Pseudotsuga Douglasii_.*‡
Majestic tree of the northern Pacific slope, hardy in the east when
grown from seeds from far north or high mountains.
Red cedar, _Juniperus Virginiana_*
A common tree, North and South; several horticultural varieties.
Arborvitae (white cedar, erroneously), _Thuja occidentalis_.*
Becomes unattractive after ten or fifteen years on poor soils; the
horticultural varieties are excellent; see p. 333, and Hedges, p. 220.
Japanese yew, _Taxus cuspidata_.
Hardy small tree.
_Conifers for the South_.
Evergreen conifers, trees and bushes, for regions south of Washington:
_Abies Fraseri_ and _A. Picea_ (_A. pectinata_); Norway spruce; true
cedars, _Cedrus Atlantica_ and _Deodara_; cypress, _Cupressus
Goveniana, majestica, sempervirens; Chamœcyparis Lawsoniana;_
practically all junipers, including the native cedar (_Juniperus
Virginiana_); practically all arborvitæ, including the oriental or
biota group; retinosporas (forms of chamæcyparis and thuja of several
kinds); Carolina hemlock, _Tsuga Caroliniana_; English yew, _Taxus
baccata; Libocedrus decurrens_; cephalotaxus and podocarpus;
cryptomeria; Bhotan pine, _Pinus excelsa_; and the native pines of the
regions.
9. WINDOW-GARDENS
Although the making of window-gardens may not be properly a part of the
planting and ornamenting of the home grounds, yet the appearance of the
residence has a marked effect on the attractiveness or unattractiveness
of the premises; and there is no better place than this in which to
discuss the subject. Furthermore, window-gardening is closely
associated with various forms of temporary plant protection about the
residence (Fig. 268).
Window-gardens are of two types: the window-box and porch-box type, in
which the plants are grown outside the window and which is a summer or
warm-weather effort; the interior or true window-garden, made for the
enjoyment of the family in its internal relations, and which is chiefly
a winter or cold-weather effort.
_The window-box for outside effect_.
[Illustration: Fig. 268. A protection for chrysanthemums. Very good
plants can be grown under a temporary shed cover. The roof may be of
glass, oiled paper, or even of wood. Such a shed cover will afford a
very effective and handy protection for many plants.]
Handsomely finished boxes, ornamental tiling, and bracket work of wood
and iron suitable for fitting out windows for the growing of plants,
are on the market; but such, while desirable, are by no means
necessary. A stout pine box of a length corresponding to the width of
the window, about 10 inches wide and 6 deep, answers quite as well as a
finer box, since it will likely be some distance above the street, and
its sides, moreover, are soon covered by the vines. A zinc tray of a
size to fit into the wooden box may be ordered of the tinsmith. It will
tend to keep the soil from drying out so rapidly, but it is not a
necessity. A few small holes in the bottom will provide for drainage;
but with carefulness in watering these are not necessary, since the box
by its exposed position will dry out readily during summer weather,
unless the position is a shaded one. In the latter case provision for
good drainage is always advisable.
Since there is more or less cramping of roots, it will be necessary to
make the soil richer than would be required were the plants to grow in
the garden. The most desirable soil is one that does not pack hard like
clay, nor contract much when dry, but remains porous and springy. Such
a soil is found in the potting earth used by florists, and it may be
obtained from them at 50 cents to $1 a barrel. Often the nature of the
soil will be such as to make it desirable to have at hand a barrel of
sharp sand for mixing with it, to make it more porous and prevent
baking. A good filling for a deep box is a layer of clinkers or other
drainage in the bottom, a layer of pasture sod, a layer of old cow
manure, and fill with fertile garden earth.
Some window-gardeners pot the plants and then set them in the
window-box, filling the spaces between the pots with moist moss. Others
plant them directly in the earth. The former method, as a general rule,
is to be preferred in the winter window-garden; the latter in the
summer.
The plants most valuable for outside boxes are those of drooping habit,
such as lobelias, tropeolums, othonna, Kenilworth ivy, verbena (Fig.
269), sweet alyssum, and petunia. Such plants may occupy the front row,
while back of them may be the erect-growing plants, as geraniums,
heliotropes, begonias (Plate XX).
For shady situations the main dependence is on plants of graceful form
or handsome foliage; while for the sunny window the selection may be of
blooming plants. Of the plants mentioned below for these two positions,
those marked with an asterisk * are of climbing habit, and may be
trained up about the sides of the window.
[Illustration: Fig. 269. Bouquet of verbenas.]
Just what plants will be most suitable depends on the exposure. For the
shady side of the street, the more delicate kinds of plants may be
used. For full exposure to the sun, it will be necessary to choose the
more vigorous-growing kinds. In the latter position, suitable plants
for drooping would be: tropeolums,* passifloras,* the single petunias,
sweet alyssum, lobelias, verbenas, mesembryanthemums. For erect-growing
plants: geraniums, heliotropes, phlox. If the position is a shaded one,
the drooping plants might be of the following: tradescantia, Kenilworth
ivy, senecio* or parlor ivy, sedums, moneywort,* vinca, smilax,*
lygodium* or climbing fern. Erect-growing plants would be dracenas,
palms, ferns, coleus, centaurea, spotted calla, and others.
After the plants have filled the earth with roots, it will be desirable
to give the surface among them a very light sprinkling of bone-dust or
a thicker coating of rotted manure from time to time during the summer;
or instead of this, a watering with weak liquid manure about once a
week. This is not necessary, however, until the growth shows that the
roots have about exhausted the soil.
In the fall the box may be placed on the inside of the window. In this
case it will be desirable to thin out the foliage somewhat, shorten in
some of the vines, and perhaps remove some of the plants. It will also
be desirable to give a fresh coating of rich soil. Increased care will
be necessary, also, in watering, since the plants will have less light
than previously, and, moreover, there may be no provision for drainage.
Porch-boxes may be made in the same general plan. Since the plants are
likely to be injured in porch-boxes, and since these boxes should have
some architectural effect, it is well to use abundantly of rather heavy
greenery, such as swordfern (the common form of _Nephrolepis exaltata_)
or the Boston fern, _Asparagus Sprengeri_, wandering jew, the large
drooping vinca (perhaps the variegated form), aspidistra. With these or
similar things constituting the body of the box planting, the flowering
plants may be added to heighten the effect.
_The inside window-garden, or “house plants_.”
The winter window-garden may consist simply of a jardinière, or a few
choice pot-plants on a stand at the window, or of a considerable
collection with more or less elaborate arrangements for their
accommodation in the way of box, brackets, shelves, and stands.
Expensive arrangements are by no means necessary, nor is a large
collection. The plants and flowers themselves are the main
consideration, and a small collection well cared for is better than a
large one unless it can be easily accommodated and kept in good
condition.
The box will be seen near at hand, and so it may be more or less
ornamental in character. The sides may be covered with ornamental tile
held in place by molding; or a light latticework of wood surrounding
the box is pretty. But a neatly made and strong box of about the
dimensions mentioned on page 337, with a strip of molding at the top
and bottom, answers just as well; and if painted green, or some neutral
shade, only the plants will be seen or thought of. Brackets,
jardinières, and stands may be purchased of any of the larger florists.
The box may consist of merely the wooden receptacle; but a preferable
arrangement is to make it about eight inches deep instead of six, then
have the tinsmith make a zinc tray to fit the box. This is provided
with a false wooden bottom, with cracks for drainage, two inches above
the real bottom of the tray. The plants will then have a vacant space
below them into which drainage water may pass. Such a box may be
thoroughly watered as the plants require without danger of the water
running on the carpet. Of course, a faucet should be provided at some
suitable point on a level with the bottom of the tray, to permit of its
being drained every day or so if the water tends to accumulate. It
would not do to allow the water to remain long; especially should it
never rise to the false bottom, as then the soil would be kept too wet.
The window for plants should have a southern, southeastern, or eastern
exposure. Plants need all the light they can get in the winter,
especially those that are expected to bloom. The window should be
tight-fitting. Shutters and a curtain will be an advantage in cold
weather.
Plants like a certain uniformity in conditions. It is very trying on
them, and often fatal to success, to have them snug and warm one night
and pinched in a temperature only a few degrees above freezing the
next. Some plants will live in spite of it, but they cannot be expected
to prosper. Those whose rooms are heated with steam, hot water, or hot
air will have to guard against keeping rooms too warm fully as much as
keeping them too cool. Rooms in brick dwellings that have been warm all
day, if shut up and made snug in the evening, will often keep warm over
night without heat except in the coldest weather. Rooms in frame
dwellings exposed on all sides soon cool down.
It is difficult to grow plants in rooms lighted by gas. Most
living-rooms have air too dry for plants. In such cases the bow-window
may be set off from the room by glass doors; one then has a miniature
conservatory. A pan of water on the stove or on the register and damp
moss among the pots, will help to afford plants the necessary humidity.
The foliage will need cleansing from time to time to free it from dust.
A bath tub provided with a ready outlet for the water is an excellent
place for this purpose. The plants may be turned on their sides and
supported on a small box above the bottom of the tub. Then they may be
freely syringed without danger of making the soil too wet. It is
usually advisable not to wet the flowers, however, especially the white
waxen kinds, like hyacinths. The foliage of rex begonias should be
cleansed with a piece of dry or only slightly moist cotton. But if the
leaves can be quickly dried off by placing them in the open air on mild
days, or moderately near the stove, the foliage may be syringed.
Some persons attach the box to the window, or support it on brackets
attached below the window-sill; but a preferable arrangement is to
support the box on a low and light stand of suitable height provided
with rollers. It may then be drawn back from the window, turned around
from time to time to give the plants light on all sides, or turned with
the attractive side in as may be desired.
Often the plants are set directly in the soil; but if they are kept in
pots they may be rearranged, and changed about to give those which need
it more light. Larger plants that are to stand on shelves or brackets
may be in porous earthenware pots; but the smaller ones that are to
fill the window-box may be placed in heavy paper pots. The sides of
these are flexible, and the plants in them therefore may be crowded
close together with great economy in space. When pots are spaced, damp
sphagnum or other moss among them will hold them in place, keep the
soil from drying out too rapidly, and at the same time give off
moisture, so grateful to the foliage.
In addition to the stand, or box, a bracket for one or more pots on
either side of the window, about one-third or half-way up, will be
desirable. The bracket should turn on a basal hinge or pivot, to admit
of swinging it forward or backward. These bracket plants usually suffer
for moisture, and are rather difficult to manage.
Florists now usually grow plants suitable for window-gardens and winter
flowering, and any intelligent florist, if asked, will take pleasure in
making out a suitable collection. The plants should be ordered early in
the fall; the florist will then not be so crowded for time and can give
the matter better attention.
Most of the plants suitable for the winter window-garden belong to the
groups that florists grow in their medium and cool houses. The former
are given a night temperature of about 60°, the latter about 50°. In
each case the temperature is 10 to 15° higher for the daytime. Five
degrees of variation below these temperatures will be allowable without
any injurious effects; even more may be borne, but not without more or
less check to the plants. In bright, sunny weather the day temperature
may be higher than in cloudy and dark weather.
Plants for an average night temperature of 60° (trade names).
_Upright flowering plants_,—Abutilons, browallias, calceolaria “Lincoln
Park,” begonias, bouvardias, euphorbias, scarlet sage, richardia or
calla, heliotropes, fuchsias, Chinese hibiscus, jasmines, single
petunias, swainsona, billbergia, freesias, geraniums, eupheas.
_Upright foliage plants_.—Muehlenbeckia, _Cycas revoluta, Dracœna
fragans_ and others, palms, cannas, _Farfugium grande_, achyranthes,
ferns, araucarias, epiphyllums, pandanus or “screw pine,” _Pilea
arborea, Ficus elastica, Grevillea robusta_.
_Climbing plants_.—_Asparagus tenuissimus, A. plumosus, Cobœa
scandens,_ smilax, Japanese hop, Madeira vine (Boussingaultia),
_Senecio mikanioides_ and _S. macroglossus_ (parlor ivies). See also
list below.
_Low-growing, trailing, or drooping plants_.—These may be used for
baskets and edgings. Flowering kinds are: Sweet alyssum, lobelia,
_Fuchsia procumbens_, mesembryanthemum, _Oxalis pendula, 0. floribunda_
and others, _Russelia juncea, Mahernia odorata_ or honey-bell.
_Foliage plants of drooping habit_.—Vincas, _Saxifraga sarmentosa_,
Kenilworth ivy, tradescantia or wandering jew, _Festuca glauca_*
othonna, _Isolepsis gracilis_,* English ivy, _Selaginella denticulata_,
and others. Some of these plants flower quite freely, but the flowers
are small and of secondary consideration. Those with an asterisk *
droop but slightly.
Plants for an average night temperature of 50°.
_Upright flowering plants_.—Azaleas, cyclamens, carnations,
chrysanthemums, geraniums, Chinese primroses, stevias, marguerite or
Paris daisy, single petunias, _Anthemis coronaria_, camellias, ardisia
(berries), cinerarias, violets, hyacinths, narcissus, tulips, the
Easter lily when in bloom, and others.
_Upright foliage plants_.—Pittosporums, palms, aucuba, euonymus (golden
and silvery variegated), araucarias, pandanus, dusty millers.
_Climbing plants_.—English ivy, maurandia, senecio or parlor ivy,
lygodium (climbing fern).
_Drooping or trailing plants_.—Flowering kinds are: Sweet alyssum,
_Mahernia odorata_, Russelia and ivy geranium.
_Bulbs in the window-garden._
Bulbs flowering through the winter add to the list of house plants a
charming variety. The labor, time, and skill required is much less than
for growing many of the larger plants more commonly used for winter
decorations (for instructions on growing bulbs out-of-doors, see p.
281; also the entries in Chapter VIII).
Hyacinths, narcissus, tulips, and crocus, and others can be made to
flower in the winter without difficulty. Secure the bulbs so as to be
able to pot them by the middle or last of October, or if earlier all
the better. The soil should be rich sandy loam, if possible; if not,
the best that can be got, to which about one-fourth the bulk of sand is
added and mixed thoroughly.
If ordinary flower-pots are to be used, place in the bottom a few
pieces of broken pots, charcoal, or small stones for drainage, then
fill the pot with dirt so that when the bulbs are set on the dirt the
top of the bulb is even with the rim of the pot. Fill around it with
soil, leaving just the tip of the bulb showing above the earth. If the
soil is heavy, a good plan is to sprinkle a small handful of sand under
the bulb to carry off the water, as is done in the beds outdoors. If
one does not have pots, he may use boxes. Starch boxes are a good size
to use, as they are not heavy to handle; and excellent flowers are
sometimes secured from bulbs planted in old tomato-cans. If boxes or
cans are used, care must be taken to have holes in the bottoms to let
the water run out. A large hyacinth bulb will do well in a 5-inch pot.
The same size pot will do for three or four narcissuses or eight to
twelve crocuses.
After the bulbs are planted in the pots or other receptacles, they
should be placed in a cool place, either in a cold pit or cellar, or on
the shady side of a building, or, better yet, plunged or buried up to
the rim of the pot in a shady border. This is done to force the roots
to grow while the top stands still, as only the bulbs with good roots
will give good flowers. When the weather gets so cold that a crust is
frozen on the soil, the pots should be covered with a little straw, and
as the weather gets colder more straw must be used. In six to eight
weeks after planting the bulbs, they should have made roots enough to
grow the plant, and they may be taken up and placed in a cool room for
a week or so, after which, if they have started into growth, they may
be taken into a warmer room where they can have plenty of light. They
will grow very rapidly now and will want much water, and after the
flowers begin to show, the pots may stand in a saucer of water all the
time. When just coming into bloom the plants may have full sunlight
part of the time to help bring out the color of the flowers.
Hyacinths, tulips, and narcissus all require similar treatment. When
well rooted, which will be in six or eight weeks, they are brought out
and given a temperature of some 55° to 60° till the flowers appear,
when they should be kept in a cooler temperature, say 50°. The single
Roman hyacinth is an excellent house plant. The flowers are small, but
they are graceful and are well adapted to cutting. It is early.
The Easter lily is managed the same way, except to hasten its flowers
it should be kept at not lower than 60° at night. Warmer will be
better. Lily bulbs may be covered an inch or more deep in the pots.
Freesias may be potted six or more in a pot of mellow soil, and then
started into growth at once. At first they may be given a night
temperature of 50°; and 55° to 60° when they have begun to grow.
Small bulbs, as snowdrop and crocus, are planted several or a dozen in
a pot and buried, or treated like hyacinths; but they are very
sensitive to heat, and require to be given the light only when they
have started to grow, without any forcing. Forty to 45° will be as warm
as they ever need be kept.
_Watering house plants_.
It is impossible to give rules for the watering of plants. Conditions
that hold with one grower are different from those of another. Advice
must be general. Give one good watering at the time of potting, after
which no water should be given until the plants really need it. If, on
tapping the pot, it gives out a clear ring, it is an indication that
water is needed. In the case of a soft-wooded plant, just before the
leaves begin to show signs of wilt is the time for watering. When
plants are taken up from the ground, or have their roots cut back in
repotting, gardeners rely, after the first copious watering, on
syringing the tops two or three times each day, until a new root-growth
has started, watering at the roots only when absolutely necessary.
Plants that have been potted into larger pots will grow without the
extra attention of syringing, but those from the borders that have had
their roots mutilated or shortened, should be placed in a cool, shady
spot and be syringed often. One soon becomes familiar with the wants of
individual plants, and can judge closely as to need of water. All
soft-wooded plants with a large leaf-surface need more water than
hard-wooded plants, and a plant in luxuriant growth of any kind more
than one that has been cut back or become defoliated. When plants are
grown in living-rooms, moisture must be supplied from some source, and
if no arrangement has been made for securing moist air, the plants
should be syringed often.
All plant-growers should learn to withhold water when plants are
“resting” or not in active growth. Thus camellias, azaleas, rex
begonias, palms, and many other things are usually not in their growing
period in fall and midwinter, and they should then have only sufficient
water to keep them in condition. When growth begins, apply water; and
increase the water as the growth becomes more rapid.
_Hanging baskets_.
To have a good hanging basket, it is necessary that some careful
provision be made to prevent too rapid drying out of the earth. It is
customary, therefore, to line the pot or basket with moss. Open wire
baskets, like a horse muzzle, are often lined with moss and used for
the growing of plants. Prepare the earth by mixing some well-decayed
leafmold with rich garden loam, thereby making an earth that will
retain moisture. Hang the basket in a light place, but still not in
direct sunlight; and, if possible, avoid putting it where it will be
exposed to drying wind. In order to water the basket, it is often
advisable to sink it into a pail or tub of water.
Various plants are well adapted to hanging baskets. Among the drooping
or vine-like kinds are the strawberry geranium, Kenilworth ivy,
maurandia, German ivy, canary-bird flower, _Asparagus Sprengeri_, ivy
geranium, trailing fuchsia, wandering jew, and othonna. Among the
erect-growing plants that produce flowers, _Lobelia Erinus_, sweet
alyssum, petunias, oxalis, and various geraniums are to be recommended.
Among foliage plants such things as coleus, dusty miller, begonia, and
some geraniums are adaptable.
_Aquarium_.
A pleasant adjunct to a window-garden, living room, or conservatory, is
a large glass globe or glass box containing water, in which plants and
animals are living and growing. A solid glass tank or globe is better
than a box with glass sides, because it does not leak, but the box must
be used if one wants a large aquarium. For most persons it is better to
buy the aquarium box than to attempt to make it. Five points are
important in making and keeping an aquarium:
(1) The equilibrium between plant and animal life must be secured and
maintained;
(2) the aquarium must be open on top to the air or well ventilated;
(3) the temperature should be kept between 40° and 50° for ordinary
animals and plants (do not place in full sun in a hot window);
(4) it is well to choose such animals for the aquarium as are adapted
to life in still water;
(5) the water must be kept fresh, either by the proper balance of plant
and animal life or by changing the water frequently, or by both.
The aquatic plants of the neighborhood may be kept in the
aquarium,—such things as myriophyllums, charas, eel-grass, duckmeats or
lemnas, cabomba or fish grass, arrow-leafs or sagittaria, and the like;
also the parrot’s feather, to be bought of florists (a species of
myriophyllum). Of animals, there are fishes (particularly minnows),
water insects, tadpoles, clams, snails. If the proper balance is
maintained between plant and animal life, it will not be necessary to
change the water so frequently.