CHAPTER VII

THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS—THE CLASSES OF PLANTS, AND LISTS

In choosing the kinds of plants for the main grounds the gardener

should carefully distinguish two categories,—those plants to compose

the structural masses and design of the place, and those that are to be

used for mere ornament. The chief merits to be sought in the former are

good foliage, pleasing form and habit, shades of green, and color of

winter twigs. The merits of the latter lie chiefly in flowers or

colored foliage.

Each of these categories should be again divided. Of plants for the

main design, there might be discussion of trees for a windbreak, of

trees for shade; of shrubs for screens or heavy plantings, for the

lighter side plantings, and for incidental masses about the buildings

or on the lawn; and perhaps also of vines for porches and arbors, of

evergreens, of hedges, and of the heavier herbaceous masses.

Plants used for mere embellishment or ornamentation may be ranged again

into categories for permanent herbaceous borders, for display beds,

ribbon edgings, annuals for temporary effects, foliage beds, plants for

adding color and emphasis to the shrubbery masses, plants desired to be

grown as single specimens or as curiosities, and plants for porch-boxes

and window-gardens.

Having now briefly suggested the uses of the plants, we shall proceed

to discuss them in reference to the making of home grounds. This

chapter contains a brief consideration of:

_Planting for immediate effect,_

_The use of “foliage” trees and shrubs,_

_Windbreaks and screens,_

_The making of hedges,_

_The borders,_

_The flower-beds,_

_Aquatic and bog plants,_

_Rockeries and alpine plants;_

and then it runs into nine sub-chapters, as follows:—

1. Plants for carpet-beds, p. 234;

2. The annual plants, p. 241;

3. Hardy herbaceous perennials, p. 260;

4. Bulbs and tubers, p. 281;

5. The shrubbery, p. 290;

6. Climbing plants, p. 307;

7. Trees for lawns and streets, p. 319;

8. Coniferous evergreen trees and shrubs, p. 331;

9. Window-gardens, p. 336.

And then, in Chapter VIII, the particular cultures of plants needing

special care are briefly discussed.

_Planting for immediate effect_.

It is always legitimate, and, in fact, desirable, to plant for

immediate effect. One may plant very thickly of rapid-growing trees and

shrubs for this purpose. It is a fact, however, that very rapid-growing

trees usually lack strong or artistic character. Other and better trees

should be planted with them and the featureless kinds be gradually

removed. (Page 41.)

The effect of a new place may be greatly heightened by a dexterous use

of annuals and other herbaceous stuff in the shrub plantations. Until

the shrubbery covers the ground, temporary plants may be grown among

them. Subtropical beds may give a very desirable temporary finish to

places that are pretentious enough to make them seem in keeping.

Very rough, hard, sterile, and stony banks may sometimes be covered

with coltsfoot (_Tussilago Farfara_), sacaline, _Rubus cratœgifotius,_

comfrey, and various wild growths that persist in similar places in the

neighborhood.

However much the planter may plan for immediate effects, the beauty of

trees and shrubs comes with maturity and age, and this beauty is often

delayed, or even obliterated, by shearing and excessive heading-back.

At first, bushes are stiff and erect, but when they attain their full

character, they usually droop or roll over to meet the sward. Some

bushes make mounds of green much sooner than others that may even be

closely related. Thus the common yellow-bell (_Forsythia virdissima_)

remains stiff and hard for some years, whereas _F. suspensa_ makes a

rolling heap of green in two or three years. Quick informal effects can

also be secured by the use of Hall’s Japanese honeysuckle (_Lonicera

Halliana_ of nurserymen), an evergreen in the South, and holding its

leaves until midwinter or later in the North. It may be used for

covering a rock, a pile of rubbish, a stump (Fig. 236), to fill a

corner against a foundation, or it may be trained on a porch or arbor.

There is a form with yellow-veined leaves. _Rosa Wichuraiana_ and some

of the dewberries are useful for covering rough places.

Many vines that are commonly used for porches and arbors may be

employed also for the borders of shrub-plantations and for covering

rough banks and rocks, quickly giving a finish to the cruder parts of

the place. Such vines, among others, are various kinds of clematis,

Virginia creeper, actinidia, akebia, trumpet creeper, periploca,

bitter-sweet (_Solanum Dulcamara_), wax-work (_Celastrus scandens_).

Of course, very good immediate effects may be secured by very close

planting (page 222), but the homesteader must not neglect to thin out

these plantations when the time comes.

[Illustration: Fig 236. Stump covered with Japanese honeysuckle.]

_The use of “foliage” trees and shrubs_.

There is always a temptation to use too freely of the trees and shrubs

that are characterized by abnormal or striking foliage. The subject is

discussed in its artistic bearings on pages 40 and 41.

As a rule, the yellow-leaved, spotted-leaved, variegated, and other

abnormal “foliage” plants are less hardy and less reliable than the

green-leaved or “natural” forms. They usually require more care, if

they are kept in vigorous and seemly condition. Some marked exceptions

to this are noted in the lists of trees and shrubs.

There are some plants of striking foliage, however, that are perfectly

reliable, but they are usually not of the “horticultural variety”

class, their characteristics being normal to the species. Some of the

silver or white-leaved poplars, for example, produce the most striking

contrasts of foliage, particularly if set near darker trees, and for

this reason they are much desired by many planters. Bolle’s poplar

(_Populus Bolleana_ of the nurseries) is one of the best of these

trees. Its habit is something like that of the Lombardy. The upper

surface of the deeply lobed leaves is dark dull green, while the under

surface is almost snowy white. Such emphatic trees as this should

generally be partially obscured by planting them amongst other trees,

so that they appear to mix with the other foliage; or else they should

be seen at some distance. Other varieties of the common white poplar or

abele are occasionally useful, although most of them sprout badly and

may become a nuisance. But the planting of these immodest trees is so

likely to be overdone that one scarcely dare recommend them, although,

when skillfully used, they may be made to produce most excellent

effects. If any reader has a particular fondness for trees of this

class (or any others with woolly-white foliage) and if he has only an

ordinary city lot or farm-yard to ornament, let him reduce his desires

to a single tree, and then if that tree is planted in the interior of a

group of other trees, no harm can result.

_Windbreaks and screens_.

A shelter-belt for the home grounds is often placed at the extreme edge

of the home yard, toward the heaviest or prevailing wind. It may be a

dense plantation of evergreens. If so, the Norway spruce is one of the

best for general purposes in the northeastern states. For a lower belt

the arbor vitae is excellent. Some of the pines, as the Scotch or

Austrian, and the native white pine, are also to be advised,

particularly if the belt is at some distance from the residence. As a

rule, the coarser the tree the farther it should be placed from the

house.

The common deciduous trees of the region (as elm, maple, box-elder) may

be planted in a row or rows for windbreaks. Good temporary shelter

belts are secured by poplars and large willows. On the prairies and far

north the laurel willow _(Salix laurifolia_ of the trade) is excellent.

Where snow blows very badly, two lines of breaks may be planted three

to six rods apart, so that the inclosed lane may catch the drift; this

method is employed in prairie regions.

Persons may desire to use the break as a screen to hide undesirable

objects. If these objects are of a permanent character, as a barn or an

unkempt property, evergreen trees should be used. For temporary

screens, any of the very large-growing herbaceous plants may be

employed. Very excellent subjects are sunflowers, the large-growing

nicotianas, castor beans, large varieties of Indian corn, and plants of

like growth. Excellent screens are sometimes made with vines on a

trellis.

Very efficient summer screens may be made with ailanthus, paulownia,

basswood, sumac, and other plants that tend to throw up very vigorous

shoots from the base. After these plants have been set a year or two,

they are cut back nearly to the ground in winter or spring, and strong

shoots are thrown up with great luxuriance during the summer, giving a

dense screen and presenting a semi-tropical effect. For such purposes,

the roots should be planted only two or three feet apart. If, after a

time, the roots become so crowded that the shoots are weak, some of the

plants may be removed. Top-dressing the area every fall with manure

will tend to make the ground rich enough to afford a very heavy summer

growth. (See Fig. 50.)

_The making of hedges_.

Hedges are much less used in this country than in Europe, and for

several reasons. Our climate is dry, and most hedges do not thrive so

well here as there; labor is high-priced, and the trimming is therefore

likely to be neglected; our farms are so large that much fencing is

required; timber and wire are cheaper than live hedges.

However, hedges are used with good effect about the home grounds. In

order to secure a good ornamental hedge, it is necessary to have a

thoroughly well-prepared deep soil, to set the plants close, and to

shear them at least twice every year. For evergreen hedges the most

serviceable plant in general is the arbor vitae. The plants may be set

at distances of 1 to 2-1/2 feet apart. For coarser hedges, the Norway

spruce is used; and for still coarser ones, the Scotch and Austrian

pines. In California the staple conifer hedge is made of Monterey

cypress. For choice evergreen hedges about the grounds, particularly

outside the northern states, some of the retinosporas are very useful.

One of the most satisfactory of all coniferous plants for hedges is the

common hemlock, which stands shearing well and makes a very soft and

pleasing mass. The plants may be set from 2 to 4 feet apart.

Other plants that hold their leaves and are good for hedges are the

common box and the privets. Box hedges are the best for very low

borders about walks and flower-beds. The dwarf variety can be kept down

to a height of 6 inches to a foot for any number of years. The

larger-growing varieties make excellent hedges 3, 4, and 5 feet high.

The ordinary privet or prim holds its leaves well into winter in the

North. The so-called Californian privet holds its leaves rather longer

and stands better along the seashore. The mahonia makes a low, loose

hedge or edging in locations where it will thrive. Pyracantha is also

to be recommended where hardy. In the southern states, nothing is

better than _Citrus trifoliata_. This is hardy even farther north than

Washington in very favored localities. In the South, _Prunus

Caroliniana_ is also used for hedges. Saltbush hedges are frequent in

California.

For hedges of deciduous plants, the most common species are the

buckthorn, Japan quince, the European hawthorn and other thorns,

tamarix, osage orange, honey locust, and various kinds of roses. Osage

orange has been the most used for farm hedges. For home grounds,

_Berberis Thunbergii_ makes an excellent free hedge; also _Spiræa

Thunbergii_ and other spireas. The common _Rosa rugosa_ makes an

attractive free hedge.

Hedges should be trimmed the year after they are set, although they

should not be sheared very closely until they reach the desired or

permanent height. Thereafter they should be cut into the desired form

in spring or fall, or both. If the plants are allowed to grow for a

year or two without trimming, they lose their lower leaves and become

open and straggly. Osage orange and some other plants are plashed; that

is, the plants are set at an angle rather than perpendicularly, and

they are wired together obliquely in such a way that they make an

impenetrable barrier just above the surface of the ground.

For closely clipped or sheared hedges, the best plants are arbor vitae,

retinospora, hemlock, Norway spruce, privet, buckthorn, box, osage

orange, pyracantha, _Citrus trifoliata_. The pyracantha _(Pyracantha

coccinea_) is an evergreen shrub allied to cratægus, of which it is

sometimes considered to be a species. It is also sometimes referred to

cotoneaster. Although hardy in protected places in the North, it is

essentially a bush of the middle and southern latitudes, and of

California. It has persistent foliage and red berries. Var. _Lalandi_

has orange-red berries.

_The borders_.

The word “border” is used to designate the heavy or continuous planting

about the boundaries of a place, or along the walks and drives, or

against the buildings, in distinction from planting on the lawn or in

the interior spaces. A border receives different designations,

depending on the kinds of plants that are grown therein: it may be a

shrub-border, a flower-border, a hardy border for native and other

plants, a vine-border, and the like.

There are three rules for the choosing of plants for a hardy border:

choose (1) those that you like best, (2) those that are adapted to the

climate and soil, (3) those that are in place or in keeping with that

part of the grounds.

The earth for the border should be fertile. The whole ground should be

plowed or spaded and the plants set irregularly in the space; or the

back row may be set in a line. If the border is composed of shrubs, and

is large, a horse cultivator may be run in and out between the plants

for the first two or three years, since the shrubs will be set 2 to 4

feet apart. Ordinarily, however, the tilling is done with hand tools.

After the plants are once established and the border is filled, it is

best to dig up as little as possible, for the digging disturbs the

roots and breaks the crowns. It is usually best to pull out the weeds

and give the border a top-dressing each fall of well-rotted manure. If

the ground is not very rich, an application of ashes or some commercial

fertilizer may be given from time to time.

The border should be planted so thick as to allow the plants to run

together, thereby giving one continuous effect. Most shrubs should be

set 3 feet apart. Things as large as lilacs may go 4 feet and sometimes

even more. Common herbaceous perennials, as bleeding heart,

delphiniums, hollyhocks, and the like, should go from 12 to 18 inches.

On the front edge of the border is a very excellent place for annual

and tender flowering plants. Here, for example, one may make a fringe

of asters, geraniums, coleus, or anything else he may choose. (Chap.

II.)

Into the heavy borders about the boundaries of the place the autumn

leaves will drift and afford an excellent mulch. If these borders are

planted with shrubs, the leaves may be left there to decay, and not be

raked off in the spring.

The general outline of the border facing the lawn should be more or

less wavy or irregular, particularly if it is on the boundary of the

place. Alongside a walk or drive the margins may follow the general

directions of the walk or drive.

In making borders of perennial flowers the most satisfactory results

are secured if a large clump of each kind or variety is grown. The

herbaceous border is one of the most flexible parts of grounds, since

it has no regular or formal design. Allow ample space for each

perennial root,—often as much as three or four square feet,—and then if

the space is not filled the first year or two, scatter over the area

seeds of poppies, sweet peas, asters, gilias, alyssum, or other

annuals. Figures 237-239, from Long (“Popular Gardening,” i., 17, 18),

suggest methods of making such borders. They are on a scale of ten feet

to the inch. The entire surface is tilled, and the irregular diagrams

designate the sizes of the clumps. The diagrams containing no names are

to be filled with bulbs, annuals, and tender plants, if desired.

[Illustration: Fig. 237. Suggestions for a border of spring flowers.]

[Illustration: Fig. 238. A border of summer-flowering herbs.]

It must not be supposed, however, that one cannot have a border unless

he has wide marginal spaces about his grounds. It is surprising how

many things one can grow in an old fence. Perennials that grow in

fence-rows in fields ought also to grow in similar boundaries on the

home grounds. Some of garden annuals will thrive alongside a fence,

particularly if the fence does not shut off too much light; and many

vines (both perennial and annual) will cover it effectively. Among

annuals, the large-seeded, quick-germinating, rapid-growing kinds will

do best. Sunflower, sweet pea, morning glory, Japanese hop, zinnia,

marigold, amaranths, four o’clock, are some of the kinds that will hold

their own. If the effort is made to grow plants in such places, it is

important to give them all the advantage possible early in the season,

so that they will get well ahead of the grass and weeds. Spade up the

ground all you can. Add a little quick-acting fertilizer. It is best to

start the plants in pots or small boxes, so that they will be in

advance of the weeds when they are set out.

[Illustration: Fig. 239. An autumn-flowering border.]

_The flower-beds._

We must remember to distinguish two uses of flowers,—their part in a

landscape design or picture, and their part in a bed or separate garden

for bloom. We now consider the flower-bed proper; and we include in the

flower-bed such “foliage” plants as coleus, celosia, croton, and canna,

although the main object of the flower-bed is to produce an abundance

of flowers.

In making a flower-bed, see that the ground is well drained; that the

subsoil is deep; that the land is in a mellow and friable condition,

and that it is fertile. Each fall it may have a mulch of rotted manure

or of leafmold, which may be spaded under deeply in the spring; or the

land may be spaded and left rough in the fall, which is a good practice

when the soil has much clay. Make the flower-beds as broad as possible,

so that the roots of the grass running in from either side will not

meet beneath the flowers and rob the beds of food and moisture. It is

well to add a little commercial fertilizer each fall or spring.

Although it is well to emphasize making the ground fertile, it must be

remembered (as indicated at the close of Chap. IV) that it can easily

be made too rich for such plants as we desire to keep within certain

stature and for those from which we wish an abundance of bloom in a

short season. In over-rich ground, nasturtiums and some other plants

not only “run to vine,” but the bloom lacks brilliancy. When it is the

leaf and vegetation that is wanted, there is little danger of making

the ground too rich, although it is possible to make the plant so

succulent and sappy that it becomes sprawly or breaks down; and other

plants may be crippled and crowded out.

There are various styles of flower-planting. The mixed border, planted

with various hardy plants, and extending along either side of the

garden-walk, was popular years ago; and, with modifications in

position, form, and extent, has been a popular attachment to home

grounds during the past few years. To produce the best effects the

plants should be set close enough to cover the ground; and the

selection should be such as to afford a continuity of bloom.

The mixed flower-bed may contain only tender summer-blooming plants, in

which case the bed, made up mostly of annuals, does not purport to

express the entire season.

In distinction from the mixed or non-homogeneous flowerbed are the

various forms of “bedding,” in which plants are massed for the purpose

of making a connected and homogeneous bold display of form or color.

The bedding may be for the purpose of producing a strong effect of

white, of blue, or of red; or of ribbon-like lines and edgings; or of

luxurious and tropical expression; or to display boldly the features of

a particular plant, as the tulip, the hyacinth, the chrysanthemum.

In ribbon-bedding, flowering or foliage plants are arranged in

ribbon-like lines of harmoniously contrasting colors, commonly

accompanying walks or drives, but also suitable for marking limits, or

for the side borders. In such beds, as well as the others, the tallest

plants will be placed at the back, if the bed is to be seen from one

side only, and the lowest at the front. If it is to be seen from both

sides, then the tallest will stand in the center.

A modification of the ribbon-line, bringing the contrasting colors

together into masses forming circles or other patterns, is known as

“massing,” or “massing in color,” and sometimes is spoken of as

“carpet-bedding.”

Carpet-bedding, however, belongs more properly to a style of bedding in

which plants of dense, low, spreading habit—chiefly foliage plants,

with leaves of different forms and colors—are planted in patterns not

unlike carpets or rugs. It is often necessary to keep the plants

sheared into limits. Carpet-bedding is such a specialized form of

plant-growing that we shall treat of it separately.

Beds containing the large foliage plants, for producing tropical

effects, are composed, in the main, of subjects that are allowed to

develop naturally. In the lower and more orderly massing, the plants

are arranged not only in circles and patterns according to habit and

height, but the selection is such that some or all may be kept within

proper limits by pinching or trimming. Circles or masses composed of

flowering plants usually cannot be cut back at the top, so that the

habit of the plants must be known before planting; and the plants must

be placed in parts of the bed where trimming will not be necessary.

They may be clipped at the sides, however, in case the branches or

leaves of one mass or line in the pattern grow beyond their proper

bounds.

The numbers of good annuals and perennials that may be used in

flower-beds are now very large, and one may have a wide choice. Various

lists from which one may choose are given at the end of this chapter;

but special comment may be made on those most suitable for bedding, and

in its modification in ribbon-work and sub-tropical massing.

Bedding effects.

Bedding is ordinarily a temporary species of planting; that is, the bed

is filled anew each year. However, the term may be used to designate a

permanent plantation in which the plants are heavily massed so as to

give one continuous or emphatic display of form or color. Some of the

best permanent bedding masses are made of the various hardy ornamental

grasses, as eulalias, arundo, and the like. The color effects in

bedding may be secured with flowers or with foliage.

Summer bedding is often made by perennial plants that are carried over

from the preceding year, or better, that are propagated for that

particular purpose in February and March. Such plants as geranium,

coleus, alyssum, scarlet salvia, ageratum, and heliotrope may be used

for these beds. It is a common practice to use geranium plants which

are in bloom during the winter for bedding out during the summer, but

such plants are tall and ungainly in form and have expended the greater

part of their energies. It is better to propagate new plants by taking

cuttings or slips late in the winter and setting out young fresh

vigorous subjects. (Page 30.)

Some bedding is very temporary in its effect. Especially is this true

of spring bedding, in which the subjects are tulips, hyacinths,

crocuses, or other early-flowering bulbous plants. In this case, the

ground is usually occupied later in the season by other plants. These

later plants are commonly annuals, the seeds of which are sown amongst

the bulbs as soon as the season is far enough advanced; or the annuals

may be started in boxes and the plants transplanted amongst the bulbs

as soon as the weather is fit.

Many of the low-growing and compact continuous-flowering annuals are

excellent for summer bedding effects. There is a list of some useful

material for this purpose on page 249.

Plants for subtropical effects (Plates IV and V).

The number of plants suitable to produce a semitropical mass or for the

center or back of a group, which may be readily grown from seed, is

limited. Some of the best kinds, are included below.

It will often be worth while to supplement these with others, to be had

at the florists, such as caladiums, screw pines, _Ficus elastica,_

araucarias, _Musa Ensete_, palms, dracenas, crotons, and others.

Dahlias and tuberous begonias are also useful. About a pond the papyrus

and lotus may be used.

Practically all the plants used for this style of gardening are liable

to injury from winds, and therefore the beds should be placed in a

protected situation. The palms and some other greenhouse stuff do

better if partially shaded.

In the use of such plants, there are opportunities for the exercise of

the nicest taste. A gross feeder, as the ricinus, in the midst of a bed

of delicate annuals, is quite out of place; and a stately,

royal-looking plant among humbler kinds often makes the latter look

common, when if headed with a chief of their own rank all would appear

to the best advantage.

Some of the plants much used for subtropical bedding, and often started

for that purpose in a greenhouse or coldframe, are:—

Acalypha.

Amarantus.

Aralia Sieboldii (properly Fatsia Japonica).

Bamboos.

Caladium and colocasia.

Canna.

Coxcomb, particularly the new “foliage” kinds.

Grasses, as eulalias, pampas-grass, pennisetums.

Gunnera.

Maize, the striped form.

Ricinus or castor bean.

Scarlet sage.

Wigandia.

_Aquatic and bog plants_.

Some of the most interesting and ornamental of all plants grow in water

and in wet places. It is possible to make an aquatic flower-garden, and

also to use water and bog plants as a part of the landscape work.

The essential consideration in the growing of aquatics is the making of

the pond. It is possible to grow water-lilies in tubs and half barrels;

but this does not provide sufficient room, and the plant-food is likely

soon to be exhausted and the plants to fail. The small quantity of

water is likely also to become foul.

The best ponds are those made by good mason work, for the water does

not become muddy by working among the plants. In cement ponds it is

best to plant the roots of water-lilies in shallow boxes of earth (1

foot deep and 3 or 4 feet square), or to hold the earth in mason-work

compartments.

X: A shallow lawn pond, containing water-lilies, variegated sweet flag,

iris, and subtropical bedding at the rear; fountain covered with

parrot’s feather _(Myriophyllum proserpinacoides_). X: A shallow lawn

pond, containing water-lilies, variegated sweet flag, iris, and

subtropical bedding at the rear; fountain covered with parrot’s feather

_(Myriophyllum proserpinacoides_).

Usually the ponds or tanks are not cement lined. In some soils a simple

excavation will hold water, but it is usually necessary to give the

tank some kind of lining. Clay is often used. The bottom and sides of

the tank are pounded firm, and then covered with 3 to 6 in. of clay,

which has been kneaded in the hands, or pounded and worked in a box.

Handfuls or shovelfuls of the material are thrown forcibly upon the

earth, the operator being careful not to walk upon the work. The clay

is smoothed by means of a spade or maul, and it is then sanded.

The water for the lily pond may be derived from a brook, spring, well,

or a city water supply. The plants will thrive in any water that is

used for domestic purposes. It is important that the water does not

become stagnant and a breeding place for mosquitoes. There should be an

outlet in the nature of a stand-pipe, that will control the depth of

water. It is not necessary that the water run through the pond or tank

rapidly, but only that a slow change take place. Sometimes the water is

allowed to enter through a fountain-vase, in which water plants (such

as parrot’s feather) may be grown (Plate X).

In all ponds, a foot or 15 in. is sufficient depth of water to stand

above the crowns of the plants; and the greatest depth of water should

not be more than 3 ft. for all kinds of water-lilies. Half this depth

is often sufficient. The soil should be 1 to 2 ft. deep, and very rich.

Old cow manure may be mixed with rich loam. For the nympheas or

water-lilies, 9 to 12 in. of soil is sufficient. Most of the foreign

water-lilies are not hardy, but some of them may be grown with ease if

the pond is covered in winter.

Roots of hardy water-lilies may be planted as soon as the pond is clear

of frost, but the tender kinds (which are also to be taken up in the

fall) should not be planted till it is time to plant out geraniums.

Sink the roots into the mud so that they are just buried, and weight

them down with a stone or clod. The nelumbium, or so-called Egyptian

lotus, should not be transplanted till growth begins to show in the

roots in the spring. The roots are cleaned of decayed parts and covered

with about 3 in. of soil. A foot or so of water is sufficient for lotus

ponds. The roots of Egyptian lotus must not freeze. The roots of all

water-lily-like plants should be frequently divided and renewed.

With hardy aquatics, the water and roots are allowed to remain

naturally over winter. In very cold climates, the pond is protected by

throwing boards over it and covering with hay, straw, or evergreen

boughs. It is well to supply an additional depth of water as a further

protection.

As a landscape feature, the pond should have a background, or setting,

and its edges should be relieved, at least on sides and back, by

plantings of bog plants. In permanent ponds of large size, plantings of

willows, osiers, and other shrubbery may set off the area to advantage.

Many of the wild marsh and pond plants are excellent for marginal

plantings, as sedges, cat-tail, sweet-flag (there is a striped-leaved

form), and some of the marsh grasses. Japanese iris makes an excellent

effect in such places. For summer planting in or near ponds, caladium,

umbrella-plant, and papyrus are good.

If there is a stream, “branch,” or “run” through the place, it may

often be made one of the most attractive parts of the premises by

colonizing bog plants along it.

_Rockeries, and alpine plants_.

A rockery is a part of the place in which plants are grown in pockets

between rocks. It is a flower-garden conception rather than a landscape

feature, and therefore should be at one side or in the rear of the

premises. Primarily, the object of using the rocks is to provide better

conditions in which certain plants may grow; sometimes the rocks are

employed to hold a springy or sloughing bank and the plants are used to

cover the rocks; now and then a person wants a rock or a pile of stones

in his yard, as another person would want a piece of statuary or a

sheared evergreen. Sometimes the rocks are natural to the place and

cannot well be removed; in this case the planning and planting should

be such as to make them part of the picture.

The real rock-garden, however, is a place in which to grow plants. The

rocks are secondary. The rocks should not appear to be placed for

display. If one is making a collection of rocks, he is pursuing geology

rather than gardening.

Yet many of the so-called rock-gardens are mere heaps of stones, placed

where it seems to be convenient to pile stones rather than where the

stones may improve conditions for the growing of plants.

The plants that will naturally grow in rock pockets are those requiring

a continuous supply of root moisture and a cool atmosphere. To place a

rockery on a sand bank in the burning sun is therefore entirely out of

character.

Rock-garden plants are those of cool woods, of bogs, and particularly

of high mountains and alpine regions. It is generally understood that a

rock-garden is an alpine-garden, although this is not necessarily so.

In this country alpine-gardening is little known, largely because of

our hot dry summers and falls. But if one has a rather cool exposure

and an unfailing water supply, he may succeed fairly well with many of

the alpines, or at least with the semi-alpines.

Most of the alpines are low and often tufted plants, and bloom in a

spring temperature. In our long hot seasons, the alpine-garden may be

expected to be dormant during much of the summer, unless other

rock-loving plants are colonized in it. Alpine plants are of many

kinds. They are specially to be found in the genera arenaria, silene,

diapensia, primula, saxifraga, arabis, aubrietia, veronica, campanula,

gentiana. They comprise a good number of ferns and many little heaths.

A good rock-garden of any kind does not have the stones piled merely on

the surface; they are sunken well into the ground and are so placed

that there are deep chambers or channels that hold moisture and into

which roots may penetrate. The pockets are filled with good fibrous

moisture-holding earth, and often a little sphagnum or other moss is

added. It must then be arranged so that the pockets never dry out.

Rock-gardens are usually failures, because they violate these very

simple elementary principles; but even when the soil conditions and

moisture conditions are good, the habits of the rock plants must be

learned, and this requires thoughtful experience. Rock-gardens cannot

be generally recommended.

1. PLANTS FOR CARPET-BEDS

(By Ernest Walker)

The beauty of the carpet-bed lies largely in its unity, sharp contrast

and harmony of color, elegance—often simplicity—of design, nicety of

execution, and the continued distinctness of outline due to scrupulous

care. A generous allowance of green-sward on all sides contributes

greatly to the general effect,—in fact it is indispensable.

Whatever place is chosen for the bed, it should be in a sunny exposure.

This, nor any kind of bed, should not be planted near large trees, as

their greedy roots will rob the soil not only of its food, but of

moisture. The shade also will be a menace. As the plants stand so

thick, the soil should be well enriched, and spaded at least a foot

deep. In planting, a space of at least six inches must be left between

the outer row of plants and the edge of the grass. The very style of

the bed requires that lines be straight, the curves uniform, and that

they be kept so by the frequent and careful use of the shears. During

dry periods watering will be necessary. The beds, however, should not

be watered in the hot sunshine. Foliage plants are most in use, and are

the ones which will prove the most satisfactory in the hands of the

inexperienced, as they submit to severe clipping and are thus more

easily managed.

The following list will be helpful to the beginner. It embraces a

number of the plants in common use for carpet-bedding, although not all

of them. The usual heights are given in inches. This, of course, in

different soils and under different treatment is more or less a

variable quantity. The figures in parentheses suggest in inches

suitable distances for planting in the row when immediate effects are

expected. A verbena in rich soil will in time cover a circle three feet

or more in diameter; other plants mentioned spread considerably; but

when used in the carpet-bed, they must be planted close. One cannot

wait for them to grow. The aim is to cover the ground at once. Although

planted thick in the row, it will be desirable to leave more room

between the rows in case of spreading plants like the verbena. Most of

them, however, need little if any more space between the rows than is

indicated by the figures given. In the list those plants that bear free

clipping are marked with *:

_Lists for carpet-beds._

_The figure immediately following the name of plant indicates its

height, the figures in parentheses the distance for planting, in

inches_.

1. LOW-GROWING PLANTS

A. FOLIAGE PLANTS.

_Crimson_.—*Alternanthera amœna spectabilis, 6 (4-6).

Alternanthera paronychioides major, 5 (3-6).

Alternanthera versicolor, 5 (3-6).

_Yellow_.—Alternanthera aurea nana, 6 (4-6).

_Gray, or whitish_.—Echeveria secunda, glauca, 1-1/2 (3-4).

Echeveria metallica, 9 (6-8).

Cineraria maritima, 15 (9-12).

Sempervivum Californicum, 1-1/2 (3-4).

Thymus argenteus, 6 (4-6).

_Bronze brown_.—Oxalis tropæoloides, 3 (3-4).

_Variegated_

(white and green).—Geranium Mme. Salleroi, 6 (6-8).

*Sweet alyssum, variegated, 6 (6-9).

B. FLOWERING PLANTS.

_Scarlet_.—Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).

Cuphea platycentra, Cigar Plant, 6 (4-6).

_White_.—Sweet alyssum, Little Gem, 4 (4-6).

Sweet alyssum, common, 6 (6-8).

Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).

_Blue_.—Lobelia, Crystal Palace, 6 (4-6).

Ageratum, Dwarf Blue, 6 (6-8).

2. PLANTS OF TALLER GROWTH

A. FOLIAGE PLANTS.

_Crimson_.—*Coleus Verschaffeltii, 24 (9-12).

*Achyranthes Lindeni, 18 (8-12).

*Achyranthes Gilsoni, 12 (8-12).

*Achyranthes Verschaffeltii, 12 (8-12).

*Acalypha tricolor, 12-18 (12).

_Yellow_.—*Coleus, Golden Bedder, 24 (9-12).

*Achyranthes, aurea reticulata, 12 (8-12).

Golden feverfew (Pyrethrum parthenifolium

aureum), (6-8).

Bronze geranium, 12 (9).

_Silvery white_.—Dusty miller (Centaurea gymnocarpa), 12 (8-12).

*Santolina Chamæcyparissus incana, 6-12

(6-8).

Geranium, Mountain of Snow, 12 (6-9).

_Variegated_

(white and green).—*Stevia serrata var., 12-18 (8-12).

Phalaris arundinaeca var., (grass), 24 (4-8).

Cyperus alternifolius var., 24-30 (8-12).

_Bronze_.—*Acalypha marginata, 24 (12).

B. FLOWERING PLANTS.

_Scarlet_.—Salvia splendens, 36 (12-18).

Geraniums, 24 (12).

Cuphea tricolor (C. Llavae), 18 (8-12).

Dwarf nasturtium (Tropaeolum), 12-18 (12-18).

Begonia, Vernon, 12 (6-8).

Verbenas, 12 (6-12).

Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).

_White_.—Salvia splendens, White-flowered, 36 (12-18).

Geraniums, 18-24 (12).

Lantana, Innocence, 18-24 (8-12).

Lantana, Queen Victoria, 24 (8-12).

Verbena, Snow Queen, 12 (6-12).

Ageratum, White, 9 (6-9).

Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).

_Pink_.—Petunia, Countess of Ellesmere, 18 (8-12).

Lantana, 24 (8-12).

Verbena, Beauty of Oxford, 6 (8-12).

Phlox Drummondii, Dwarf, 6 (4-6).

_Yellow_.—Dwarf nasturtium, 12 (12-18).

Anthemis coronaria fl. pl., 12 (6-8).

_Blue_.—Ageratum Mexicanum, 12 (6-8).

Verbenas, 6 (6-12).

Heliotrope, Queen of Violets, 18 (12-18).

In Fig. 240 are shown a few designs suitable for carpet-beds. They are

intended merely to be suggestive, not to be copied precisely. The

simple forms and component parts of the more elaborate beds may be

arranged into other designs. Likewise the arrangement of plants, which

will be mentioned as suitable for making a given pattern, is only one

of many possible combinations. The idea is merely to bring out the

design distinctly. To accomplish this it is only necessary to use

plants of contrasting color or growth. To illustrate how varied are the

arrangements that may be used, and how easily different effects are

produced with a single design, several different combinations of color

for the bed No. 1 will be mentioned:

[Illustration: Fig. 240. Designs for carpet-beds.]

No. 1.—Arrangement A: Outside, Alternanthera amœna spectabilis; inside,

Stevia serrata variegata. B: lobelia, Crystal Palace; Mme. Salleroi

geranium. C: lobelia, Crystal Palace; scarlet dwarf phlox. D: sweet

alyssum; petunia, Countess of Ellesmere. E: coleus, Golden Bedder;

Coleus Verschaffeltii. F: Achyranthes Lindeni; yellow dwarf nasturtium.

No. 2.—Outside, red alternanthera; middle, dusty miller; center, pink

geranium.

No. 3.—Outside, Alternanthera aurea nana; middle, Alternanthera amœna

spectabilis; center, Anthemis coronaria.

No. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 12 may each be filled with a single color, or given

a border of suitable plants if the planter so chooses.

No. 9.—Ground, Alternanthera aurea nana; center, Acalypha tricolor;

black dots, scarlet geranium.

No. 10.—Ground of Centaurea gymnocarpa; circle, Achyranthes Lindeni;

cross, Golden coleus.

No. 11.—Border, Oxalis tropæoloides; center, blue heliotrope, blue

ageratum, or Acalypha marginata; cross about the center, Thymus

argenteus, or centaurea; scallop outside the cross, blue lobelia;

corners, inside border, santolina.

Designs 13 and 14 are, in character, somewhat in the style of a

parterre; but instead of the intervening spaces in the bed being

ordinary walks they are of grass. Such beds are of a useful type,

because they may be made large and yet be executed with a comparatively

small number of plants. They are especially suitable for the center of

an open plot of lawn with definite formal boundaries on all sides, such

as walks or drives. Whether they are to be composed of tall-growing or

of low-growing plants will depend upon the distance they are to be from

the observer. For a moderate-sized plot the following plants might be

used:—

No. 13.—Border, red alternanthera; second row, dwarf orange or yellow

nasturtium; third row, Achyranthes Gilsoni, or Acalypha tricolor;

central square, scarlet geraniums, with a border of Centaurea

gymnocarpa; intervening spaces, grass. Instead of the square of

geraniums, a vase might be substituted, or a clump of Salvia splendens.

No. 14.—Composite beds like this and the former are always suggestive.

They contain various features which may readily be recombined into

other patterns. Sometimes it may be convenient to use only portions of

the design. The reader should feel that no arrangement is arbitrary,

but merely a suggestion that he may use with the utmost freedom, only

keeping harmony in view. For No. 14, the following may be an acceptable

planting arrangement: Border, Mme. Salleroi geranium; small dots, dwarf

scarlet tropeolum; diamonds, blue lobelia; crescents, Stevia serrata

variegata; inner border, crimson achyranthes or coleus; loops,

Centaurea gymnocarpa; wedge-shaped portions, scarlet geranium.

No. 15.—Suitable for a corner. Border, red alternanthera; second row,

Alternanthera aurea nana; third row, red alternanthera; center,

Echeveria Californica.

[Illustration: Fig. 241. Carpet-bed for a bay or recession in the

border planting.]

No. 16—Border, crimson alternanthera (another border of yellow

alternanthera might be placed inside of this); ground, Echeveria

secunda glauca; inner border, Oxalis tropæoloides; center,

Alternanthera aurea nana. Or, inner border, Echeveria Californica;

center, crimson alternanthera.

[Illustration: Fig. 242. Another circular carpet-bed.]

No. 17.—Another bed intended to fill an angle. Its curved side will

also fit it for use with a circular design. Border, dwarf blue

ageratum; circle, blue lobelia; ground (3 parts), crimson

alternanthera.

Other carpet or mosaic beds (after Long), with the plants indicated,

are shown in Figs. 241, 242.

2. THE ANNUAL PLANTS

The annual flowers of the seedsmen are those that give their best bloom

in the very year in which the seeds are sown. True annuals are those

plants that complete their entire life-cycle in one season. Some of the

so-called annual flowers will continue to bloom the second and third

years, but the bloom is so poor and sparse after the first season that

it does not pay to keep them. Some perennials may be treated as annuals

by starting the seeds early; Chinese pink, pansy and snapdragon are

examples.

The regular biennials may be treated practically as annuals; that is,

seeds may be sown every year, and after the first year, therefore, a

seasonal succession of bloom may be had. Of such are adlumia,

Canterbury bell, lunaria, ipomopsis, Œnothera Lamarckiana; and

foxglove, valerian, and some other perennials would better be treated

as biennials.

Most annuals will bloom in central New York if the seeds are sown in

the open ground when the weather becomes thoroughly settled. But there

are some kinds, as the late cosmos and moon-flowers, for which the

northern season is commonly too short to give good bloom unless they

are started very early indoors.

If flowers of any annual are wanted extra early, the seeds should be

started under cover. A greenhouse is not necessary for this purpose,

although best results are to be expected with such a building. The seed

may be sown in boxes, and these boxes then placed in a sheltered

position on the warm side of a building. At night they may be covered

with boards or matting. In very cold “spells” the boxes should be

brought inside. In this simple way seeds may often be started one to

three weeks ahead of the time when they can be sown in the open garden.

Moreover, the plants are likely to receive better care in these boxes,

and therefore to grow more rapidly. Of course, if still earlier results

are desired, the seed should be sown in the kitchen, hotbed, coldframe,

or in a greenhouse. In starting plants ahead of the season, be careful

not to use too deep boxes. The gardener’s “flat” may be taken as a

suggestion. Three inches of earth is sufficient, and in some cases (as

when the plants are started late) half this depth is enough.

The difficulty with early sown seedlings is “drawing up,” and weakness

from crowding and want of light. This is most liable to occur with

window-grown plants. Vigorous June-sown plants are better than such

weaklings. It must be remembered that very early bloom usually means

the shortening of the season at the other end; this may be remedied to

some extent by making sowings at different times.

The “hardy” annuals are such as develop readily without the aid of

artificial heat. They are commonly sown in May or earlier, directly in

the open ground where they are to grow. Florists often sow certain

kinds in the fall, and winter the young plants in coldframes. They may

also be wintered under a covering of leaves or evergreen boughs. Some

of the hardy annuals (as sweet pea) withstand considerable frost. The

“half-hardy” and “tender” annuals are alike in that they require more

warmth for their germination and growth. The tender kinds are very

quickly sensitive to frost. Both these, like the hardy kinds, may be

sown in the open ground, but not until the weather has become settled

and warm, which for the tender kinds will not commonly be before the

first of June; but the tender kinds, at least, are preferably started

in the house and transplanted to their outdoor beds. Of course, these

terms are wholly relative. What may be a tender annual in Massachusetts

may be a hardy annual or even a perennial in Louisiana.

These terms as ordinarily used in this country refer to the northern

states, or not farther south than middle Atlantic states.

Some familiar examples of hardy annuals are sweet alyssum, ageratum,

calendula, calliopsis, candytuft, Centaurea Cyanus, clarkia, larkspur,

gilia, California poppy, morning-glory, marigold, mignonette,

nemophila, pansy, phlox, pinks, poppies, portulaca, zinnia, sweet pea,

scabiosa.

Examples of half-hardy annuals are: China aster, alonsoa, balsam,

petunia, ricinus, stocks, balloon-vine, martynia, salpiglossis,

thunbergia, nasturtium, verbena.

Examples of tender annuals: Amarantus, celosia or coxcomb, cosmos,

cotton, Lobelia Erinus, cobea, gourds, ice-plant, sensitive-plant,

solanums, torenia, and such things as dahlias, caladiums, and acalypha

used for bedding and subtropical effects.

Some annuals do not bear transplanting well; as poppies, bartonia,

Venus’ looking-glass, the dwarf convolvulus, lupinus, and malope. It is

best, therefore, to sow them where they are to grow.

Some kinds (as poppies) do not bloom all summer, more especially not if

allowed to produce seed. Of such kinds a second or third sowing at

intervals will provide a succession. Preventing the formation of seeds

prolongs their life and flowering period.

A few of the annuals thrive in partial shade or where they receive

sunshine for half the day; but most of them prefer a sunny situation.

Any good garden soil is suitable for annuals. If not naturally fertile

and friable, it should be made so by the application of well-rotted

stable-manure or humus. The spading should be at least one foot deep.

The upper six inches is then to be given a second turning to pulverize

and mix it. After making the surface fine and smooth the soil should be

pressed down with a board. The seed may now be sprinkled on the soil in

lines or concentric circles, according to the method desired. After

covering the seed, the soil should be again pressed down with a board.

This promotes capillarity, by which the surface of the soil is better

supplied with moisture from below. Always mark with a label the kind

and position of all seed sown.

If the flowers are to be grown about the edges of the lawn, make sure

that the grass roots do not run underneath them and rob them of food

and moisture. It is well to run a sharp spade deep into the ground

about the edges of the bed every two or three weeks for the purpose of

cutting off any grass roots that may have run into the bed. If beds are

made in the turf, see that they are 3 ft. or more wide, so that the

grass roots will not undermine them. Against the shrub borders, this

precaution may not be necessary. In fact, it is desirable that the

flowers fill all the space between the overhanging branches and the

sod.

It is surprising how few of the uncommon or little known annuals really

have great merit for general purposes. There is nothing yet to take the

place of the old-time groups, such as amaranths, zinnias, calendulas,

daturas, balsams, annual pinks, candytufts, bachelor’s buttons,

wallflowers, larkspurs, petunias, gaillardias, snapdragons, coxcombs,

lobelias, coreopsis or calliopsis, California poppies, four-o’clocks,

sweet sultans, phloxes, mignonettes, scabiosas, nasturtiums, marigolds,

China asters, salpiglossis, nicotianas, pansies, portulacas, castor

beans, poppies, sunflowers, verbenas, stocks, alyssums, and such good

old running plants as scarlet runners, sweet peas, convolvuluses,

ipomeas, tall nasturtiums, balloon vines, cobeas. Of the annual vines

of recent introduction, the Japanese hop has at once taken a prominent

place for the covering of fences and arbors, although it has no floral

beauty to recommend it.

For bold mass-displays of color in the rear parts of the grounds or

along the borders, some of the coarser species are desirable. Good

plants for such use are: sunflower and castor bean for the back rows;

zinnias for bright effects in the scarlets and lilacs; African

marigolds for brilliant yellows; nicotianas for whites. Unfortunately,

we have no robust-growing annuals with good blues. Some of the

larkspurs and the browallias are perhaps the nearest approach to them.

For lower-growing and less gross mass-displays, the following are good:

California poppies for oranges and yellows; sweet sultans for purples,

whites, and pale yellows; petunias for purples, violets, and whites;

larkspurs for blues and violets; bachelor’s buttons (or cornflowers)

for blues; calliopsis and coreopsis and calendulas for yellows;

gaillardias for red-yellows and orange-reds; China asters for many

colors.

For still less robustness, good mass-displays can be made with the

following: alyssums and candytufts for whites; phloxes for whites and

various pinks and reds; lobelias and browallias for blues; pinks for

whites and various shades of pink; stocks for whites and reds;

wallflowers for brown-yellows; verbenas for many colors.

A garden of pleasant annual flowers is not complete that does not

contain some of the “everlastings” or immortelles. These “paper

flowers” are always interesting to children. They are not so desirable

for the making of “dry bouquets” as for their value as a part of a

garden. The colors are bright, the blooms hold long on the plant, and

most of the kinds are very easy to grow. My favorite groups are the

different kinds of xeranthemums and helichrysums. The globe amaranths,

with clover-like heads (sometimes known as bachelor’s buttons), are

good old favorites. Rhodanthes and acrocliniums are also good and

reliable.

The ornamental grasses should not be overlooked. They add a note to the

flower-garden and to bouquets that is distinct and can be secured by no

other plants. They are easily grown. Some of the good annual grasses

are _Agrostis nebulosa_, the brizas, _Bromus brizæformis_, the species

of eragrostis and pennisetums, and _Coix Lachryma_ as a curiosity. Such

good lawn grasses as arundo, pampas-grass, eulalias, and erianthus are

perennials and are therefore not included in this discussion.

Some of the most reliable and easily grown annuals are given in the

following lists (under the common trade names).

_List of annuals by color of flowers._

White Flowers

Ageratum Mexicanum album.

Alyssum, common sweet; compacta.

Centranthus macrosiphon albus.

China asters.

Convolvulus major.

Dianthus, Double White Margaret.

Iberis amara; coronaria, White Rocket.

Ipomœa hederacea.

Lavatera alba.

Malope grandiflora alba.

Matthiola (Stocks), Cut and Come Again; Dresden Perpetual; Giant

Perfection; White Pearl.

Mirabilis longiflora alba.

Nigella.

Phlox, Dwarf Snowball; Leopoldii.

Poppies, Flag of Truce; Shirley; The Mikado.

Zinnia.

Yellow and Orange Flowers

Cacalia lutea.

Calendula officinalis, common; Meteor; sulphurea; suffruticosa.

Calliopsis bicolor marmorata; cardaminefolia; elegans picta.

Cosmidium Burridgeanum.

Erysimum Perofskianum.

Eschscholtzia Californica.

Hibiscus Africanus; Golden Bowl.

Ipomœa coccinea lutea.

Loasa tricolor.

Tagetes, various kinds.

Thunbergia alata Fryeri; aurantiaca.

Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Lady Bird; Tall, Schulzi.

Zinnia.

Blue and Purple Flowers

Ageratum Mexicanum; Mexicanum, Dwarf.

Asperula setosa azurea.

Brachycome iberidifolia.

Browallia Czerniakowski; elata.

Centaurea Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact; Cyanus minor.

China asters of several varieties.

Convolvulus minor; minor unicaulis.

Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata.

Iberis umbellata; umbellata lilacina.

Kaulfussia amelloides; atroviolacea.

Lobelia Erinus; Erinus, Elegant.

Nigella.

Phlox variabilis atropurpurea.

Salvia farinacea.

Specularia.

Verbena, Black-blue; caerulea; Golden-leaved.

Whitlavia gloxinioides.

Red and Rose-red Flowers

Abromia umbellata.

Alonsoa grandiflora.

Cacalia, Scarlet.

Clarkia elegans rosea.

Convolvulus tricolor roseus.

Dianthus, Half Dwarf Early Margaret; Dwarf Perpetual; Chinensis.

Gaillardia picta.

Ipomœa coccinea; volubilis.

Matthiola annuus; Blood-red Ten Weeks; grandiflora, Dwarf.

Papaver (Poppy) cardinale; Mephisto.

Phaseolus multiflorus.

Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf; Dwarf Fireball; Black Warrior.

Salvia coccinea.

Saponaria.

Tropaeolum, Dwarf, Tom Thumb.

Verbena hybrida, Scarlet Defiance.

Zinnia.

_Useful annuals for edgings of beds and, walks, and for ribbon-beds._

Ageraturn, blue and white.

Alyssum, sweet.

Brachycome.

Calandrinia.

Clarkia.

Collinsias.

Dianthuses or pinks.

Gilia.

Gypsophila muralis.

Iberis or candytufts.

Leptosiphons.

Lobelia Erinus.

Nemophilas.

Nigellas.

Portulaca or rose moss (Fig. 243).

Saponaria Calabrica.

Specularia.

Torenia.

Whitlavia.

_Annuals that continue to bloom after frost_.

This list is compiled from Bulletin 161, Cornell Experiment Station.

Several hundred kinds of annuals were grown at this station (Ithaca,

N.Y.) in 1897 and 1898. The notes are given in the original trade names

under which the seedsmen supplied the stock.

[Illustration: Figure 243. Portulaca, or rose moss.]

Abronia umbellata.

Adonis aestivalis; autumnale.

Argemone grandiflora.

Calendulas.

Callirrhoë.

Carduus benedictus.

Centaurea Cyanus.

Centauridium.

Centranthus macro-

Cerinthe retorta. {siphon.

Cheiranthus Cheiri.

Chrysanthemums.

Convolvulus minor; tricolor.

Dianthus of various kinds.

Elsholtzia cristata.

Erysimum Perofskianum; Arkansanum.

Eschscholtzias, in several varieties (Fig. 249).

Gaillardia picta.

Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata; laciniata; tricolor.

Iberis affinis.

Lavatera alba.

Matthiolas or stocks.

Œnothera rosea; Lamarckiana;

Phlox Drummondii. {Drummondii.

Podolepis affinis; chrysantha.

Salvia coccinea; farinacea; Horminum.

Verbenas.

Vicia Gerardi.

Virginian stocks.

Viscaria elegans; oculata; Cœli-rosa.

_List of annuals suitable for bedding (that is, for “mass effects” of

color)._

A list of this kind is necessarily both incomplete and imperfect,

because good new varieties are frequently appearing, and the taste of

the gardener must be consulted. Any plants may be used, broadly

speaking, for bedding; but the following list (given in terms of trade

names) suggests some of the best subjects to use when beds of solid,

strong color are desired.

[Illustration: Fig. 244 Pansies]

Adonis aestivalis; autumnalis.

Ageratum Mexicanum; Mexicanum, Dwarf.

Bartonia aurea.

Cacalia.

Calendula officinalis, in several forms; pluvialis; Pongei; sulphurea,

fl. pl.; suffruticosa.

Calliopsis bicolor marmorata; cardaminefolia; elegans picta.

Callirrhoë involucrata; pedata; pedata nana.

Centaurea Americana; Cyanus, Victoria Dwarf Compact; Cyanus minor;

suaveolens.

China asters.

Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum; carinatum; coronarium; tricolor.

Convolvulus minor; tricolor.

Cosmidium Burridgeanum.

Delphinium, single; double.

Dianthus, Double White Half Dwarf Margaret; Dwarf Perpetual;

Caryophyllus semperflorens; Chinensis, double; dentosus hybridus;

Heddewigii; imperialis; laciniatus, Salmon Queen; plumarius;

superbus, dwarf fl. pl.; picotee.

Elsholtzia cristata.

Eschscholtzia Californica; crocea; Mandarin; tenuifolia (Fig. 249).

Gaillardia picta; picta Lorenziana.

Gilia achilleaefolia; capitata; laciniata; linifolia; nivalis;

tricolor.

Godetia Whitneyi; grandiflora maculata; rubicunda splendens.

Hibiscus Africanus; Golden Bowl.

Iberis affinis; amara; coronaria; umbellata.

Impatiens or balsam.

Lavatera alba; trimestris.

Linum grandiflorum.

Madia elegans.

Malope grandiflora.

Matricaria eximia plena.

Matthiola or stock, in many forms; Wallflower-leaved; bicornis.

Nigella, or Love-in-a-mist.

Œnothera Drummondii; Lamarckiana; rosea tetraptera.

Papaver or poppy, of many kinds; cardinale; glaucum; umbrosum.

Petunia, bedding kinds.

Phlox Drummondii, in many varieties.

Portulaca (Fig. 243).

Salvia farinacea; Horminum; splendens.

Schizanthus papilionaceus; pinnatus.

Silene Armeria; pendula.

Tagetes, or marigold, in many forms; erecta; patula; signata.

Tropaeolum, Dwarf.

Verbena auriculaeflora; Italica striata; hybrida; caerulea;

Golden-leaved.

Viscaria Cœli-rosa; elegans picta; oculata.

Zinnia, Dwarf; elegans alba; Tom Thumb; Haageana; coccinea plena (Fig.

247).

XI. The back yard, with summer house, and gardens beyond. XI. The back

yard, with summer house, and gardens beyond.

_List of annuals by height_.

It is obviously impossible to make any accurate or definite list of

plants in terms of their height, but the beginner may be aided by

approximate measurements. The following lists are made from Bulletin

161 of the Cornell Experiment Station, which gives tabular data on many

annuals grown at Ithaca, N.Y. Seeds of most of the kinds were sown in

the open, rather late. “The soil varied somewhat, but it was light and

well tilled, and only moderately rich.” Ordinary good care was given

the plants. The average height of the plants of each kind at full

growth, as they stood on the ground, is given in these lists. Of

course, these heights might be less or more with different soils,

different treatments, and different climates; but the figures are

fairly comparable among themselves.

The measurements are based on the stock supplied by leading seedsmen

under the trade names here given. It is not unlikely that some of the

discrepancies were due to mixture of seed or to stock being untrue to

type; some of it may have been due to soil conditions. The same name

may be found in two divisions in some instances, the plants having been

grown from different lots of seeds. The lists will indicate to the

grower what variations he may expect in any large lot of seeds.

Seedsmen’s catalogues should be consulted for what the trade considers

to be the proper and normal heights for the different plants.

Plants 6-8 in. high

Abronia umbellata grandiflora.

Alyssum compactum.

Callirrhoë involucrata.

Godetia, Bijou, Lady Albemarle, and Lady Satin Rose.

Gypsophila muralis.

Kaulfussia amelloides.

Leptosiphon hybridus.

Linaria Maroccana.

Lobelia Erinus and Erinus Elegant.

Nemophila atomaria, discoidalis, insignis, and maculata.

Nolana lanceolata, paradoxa, prostrata, and atriplicifolia.

Podolepis chrysantha and affinis.

Portulaca.

Rhodanthe Manglesii.

Sedum caeruleum.

Silene pendula ruberrima.

Verbena.

Plants 9-12 in. high

Alyssum.

Asperula setosa azurea.

Brachycome iberidifolia.

Calandrinia umbellata elegans.

Callirrhoë pedata nana.

Centaurea Cyanus Victoria Dwarf Compact.

Centranthus macrosiphon nanus.

Collinsia bicolor, candidissima and multicolor marmorata.

Convolvulus minor and tricolor.

Eschscholtzia crocea.

Gamolepis Tagetes.

Gilia laciniata and linifolia.

Godetia Duchess of Albany, Prince of Wales, Fairy Queen, Brilliant,

grandiflora maculata, Whitneyi, Duke of Fife, rubicunda splendens.

Helipterum corymbiflorum.

Iberis affinis.

Kaulfussia amelloides atroviolacea, and a. kermesina.

Leptosiphon androsaceus and densiflorus.

Linaria bipartita splendida.

Matthiola dwarf Forcing Snowflake, Wallflower-leaved.

Mesembryanthemum crystallinum.

Mimulus cupreus.

Nemophila atomaria oculata and marginata.

Nigella.

Nolana atriplicifolia.

Omphalodes linifolia.

Œnothera rosea and tetraptera.

Phlox, Large-flowering Dwarf and Dwarf Snowball.

Rhodanthe maculata.

Saponaria Calabrica.

Schizanthus pinnatus.

Silene Armeria and pendula.

Specularia.

Viscaria oculata cserulea.

Plants 13-17 in. high

Abronia umbellata.

Acroclinium album and roseum.

Brachycome iberidifolia alba.

Browallia Czerniakowski and elata.

Cacalia.

Calandrinia grandiflora.

Calendula sulphurea flore pleno.

Chrysanthemum carinatum.

Collomia coccinea.

Convolvulus minor and minor unicaulis.

Dianthus, the Margaret varieties, Dwarf Perpetual, Caryophyllus

semperflorens, Chinensis, dentosus hybridus, Heddewigii, imperialis,

laciniatus, plumarius, superbus dwarf, picotee, Comtesse de Paris.

Elsholtzia cristata.

Eschscholtzia Californica, Mandarin, maritima and tenuifolia.

Gaillardia picta.

Gilia achillesefolia alba and nivalis.

Helipterum Sanfordii.

Hieracium, Bearded.

Iberis amara, coronaria Empress, coronaria White Rocket,

Sweet-scented, umbellata, umbellata carnea, and umbellata lilacina.

Leptosiphon carmineus.

Lupinus nanus, sulphureus.

Malope grandiflora.

Matthiola, Wallflower-leaved and Virginian stock.

Mirabilis alba.

Nigella.

Œnothera Lamarckiana.

Palafoxia Hookeriana.

Papaver, Shirley and glaucum.

Petunia.

Phlox of many kinds.

Salvia Horminum.

Schizanthus papilionaceus.

Statice Thouini and superba.

Tagetes, Pride of the Garden and Dwarf.

Tropaeolum, many kinds of dwarf.

Venidium calendulaceum.

Verbena of several kinds.

Viscaria Cœli-rosa, elegans picta, oculata, and oculata alba.

Whitlavia gloxinioides.

Plants 18-23 in. high

Adonis aestivalis and autumnalis.

Amarantus atropurpureus.

Calendula officinalis, Meteor, suffruticosa, and pluvialis.

Calliopsis bicolor marmorata.

Callirrhoë pedata.

Centaurea Cyanus minor Blue and suaveolens.

Centranthus macrosiphon.

[Illustration: Fig. 245. Gaillardia, one of the showy garden annuals.]

Chrysanthemum Burridgeanum, carinatum, tricolor Dunnettii.

Cosmidium Burridgeanum.

Delphinium (annual).

Eutoca Wrangeliana.

Gaillardia picta (Fig. 245), Lorenziana.

Gilia achilleaefolia, a. rosea and tricolor.

Helichrysum atrosanguineum.

Ipomœa coccinea.

Linum grandiflorum.

Loasa tricolor.

Lupinus albus, hirsutus and pubescens.

Malope grandiflora alba.

Matricaria eximia plena.

Matthiola, several kinds.

Œnothera Drummondii.

Papaver Mephisto, cardinale, c. hybridum, c. Danebrog, umbrosum.

Tagetes patula and signata.

Vicia Gerardii.

Whitlavia grandiflora and g. alba.

Xeranthemum album and multiflorum album.

Zinnias of many kinds (all not mentioned in other lists).

Plants 24-30 in. high

Bartonia aurea.

Calendula officinalis fl. pl., Prince of Orange and Pongei.

Calliopsis elegans picta.

Cardiospermum Halicacabum.

Carduus benedictus.

Centaurea Cyanus minor Emperor William.

Cheiranthus Cheiri.

Chrysanthemum tricolor, t. hybridum and coronarium sulphureum fl. pl.

Clarkia elegans rosea.

Datura cornucopia.

Erysimum Arkansanum and Perofskianum.

Eutoca viscida.

Gilia capitata alba.

Helichrysum bracteatum and macranthum.

Hibiscus Africanus.

Impatiens, all varieties.

Lupinus hirsutus pilosus.

Matthiola Blood-red Ten Weeks, Cut and Come Again, grandiflora,

annuus, and others.

Mirabilis Jalapa folio variegata and longiflora alba.

Papaver, American Flag, Mikado and Double.

Perilla laciniata and Nankinensis.

Salvia farinacea.

Tagetes Eldorado, Nugget of Gold, erecta fl. pl.

Xeranthemum annuum and superbissimum fl. pl.

Zinnia elegans alba fl. pl.

[Illustration: Fig. 246. Wild phlox (_P. maculata_), one of the parents

of the perennial garden phloxes.]

Plants 31-40 in. high

Acroclinium, double rose and white.

Adonis aestivalis.

Ageratum Mexicanum album and blue.

Amarantus bicolor ruber.

Argemone grandiflora.

Centaurea Americana.

Centauridium Drummondii.

Cerinthe retorta. [c. double yellow.

Chrysanthemum coronarium album and Clarkia elegans alba fl. pl.

Cleome spinosa.

Cyclanthera pedata.

Datura fastuosa and New Golden

Euphorbia marginata. [Queen.

Gilia capitata alba.

Helianthus Dwarf double and cucu-

Hibiscus Golden Bowl. [merifolius.

Lavatera trimestris.

Madia elegans.

Martynia craniolaria.

Salvia coccinea.

[Illustration: Fig. 247. Zinnias. Often known as “youth and old age.”]

Plants 41 in. and above.

Adonis autumnalis.

Helianthus of several garden kinds (not mentioned elsewhere).

Ricinus, all varieties.

And many climbing vines.

_Distances for planting annuals_ (or plants treated as annuals).

Only an approximate idea can be given of the distances apart at which

annuals should be planted, for not only does the distance depend on the

fertility of the land (the stronger the soil the greater the distance),

but also on the object the person has in growing the plants, whether to

produce a solid mass effect or to secure strong specimen plants with

large individual bloom. If specimen plants are to be raised, the

distances should be liberal.

The distances here given for some of the commoner annuals may be

considered to represent average or usual spaces that single plants may

occupy under ordinary conditions in flowerbeds, although it would

probably be impossible to find any two gardeners or seedsmen who would

agree on the details. These are suggestions rather than

recommendations. It is always well to set or sow more plants than are

wanted, for there is danger of loss from cut-worms and other causes.

The general tendency is to let the plants stand too close together at

maturity. In case of doubt, place plants described in books and

catalogues as very dwarf at six inches, those as medium-sized at twelve

inches, very large growers at two feet, and thin them out if they seem

to demand it as they grow.

The plants in these lists are thrown into four groups (rather than all

placed together with the numbers after them) in order to classify the

subject in the beginner’s mind.

6 to 9 inches apart

Ageratum, very dwarf kinds.

Alyssum.

Asperula setosa.

Cacalia.

Candytuft.

Clarkia, dwarf.

Collinsia.

Gysophila muralis.

Kaulfussia.

Larkspur, dwarf kinds.

Linaria.

Linum grandiflorum

Lobelia Erinus. Mignonette, dwarf kinds.

Pansy.

Phlox, very dwarf kinds.

Pinks, very dwarf kinds.

Rhodanthe.

Schizopetalon.

Silene Armeria.

Snapdragon, dwarf.

Sweet pea.

Torenia.

[Illustration: Fig. 248. Improved perennial phlox.]

10 to 15 inches apart

Those marked (ft.) are examples of plants that may usually stand at

twelve inches.

Abronia (ft.).

Acroclinium.

Adlumia.

Adonis autumnalis.

Ageratum, tall kinds.

Alonsoa.

Aster, China, smaller kinds (ft.).

Balsam.

Bartonia.

Browallia.

Calendula.

California poppy (Eschscholtzia).

Calliopsis.

Cardiospermum.

Carnation, flower-garden kinds (ft.).

Celosia, small kinds.

Centaurea Cyanus.

Centauridium (ft.).

Centranthus (ft.).

Clarkia, tall (ft.).

Convolvulus tricolor (ft.).

Gaillardia, except on strong land.

Gilias.

Glaucium.

Godetia (ft.).

Gomphrena.

Gypsophila elegans.

Helichrysum (ft.).

Hunnemannia.

Jacobaea. {kinds.

Larkspur, tall annual

Malope. {varieties.

Marigold, intermediate

Mignonette, tall kinds.

Mesembryanthemum

(ice-plant) (ft.).

Morning-glory.

Nasturtium, dwarf.

Nemophila.

Nigella.

Petunia.

Phlox Drummondii.

Pinks.

Poppies (6 to 18 in., according to variety).

Portulaca (ft.).

Salpiglossis (ft.).

Scabiosa (ft.).

Schizanthus.

Snapdragon, tall kinds.

Statice (ft.).

Stock (ft.).

Tagetes, dwarf French.

Thunbergia (ft.).

Verbena.

Whitlavia (ft.), {(ft.).

Zinnia, very dwarf kinds

[Illustration: Fig 249. Eschscholtzia, or California poppy. One-half

size.]

18 to 24 inches

Amarantus.

Ammobium.

Argemone.

Aster, China, the big kinds (or rows 2 ft. apart and plants 1 ft. in

row).

Callirrhoë.

Canterbury bell (up to 3 ft.).

Celosia, large kinds (up to 30 in.).

Chrysanthemum, annual.

Cosmos, smaller kinds.

Euphorbia marginata.

Four o’clock (up to 30 in.)

Hop, Japanese. (to 30 in.)

Kochia, or summer cypress

Marigold, tall kinds.

Nasturtium, tall, if allowed to

spread on the ground.

Nicotiana (up to 30 in.).

Œnothera, tall kinds.

Salvia coccinea (_splendens

grandiflora_), about 2 ft.

Zinnia, tall kinds (up to 3 ft).

[Illustration: Fig. 250. A modern peony.]

About 3 feet or more

Caladium.

Cosmos, tall kinds (2 to 3 ft.).

Dahlia.

Datura.

Martynia.

Ricinus or castor bean.

Solanums.

Sunflower, tall kinds.

Wigandia.

3. HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS

There is a rapidly growing appreciation of perennial herbs, not only as

flower-garden and lawn subjects, but as parts of native landscapes.

Every locality yields its wild asters, golden-rods, columbines, iris,

trilliums, lilies, anemones, pentstemons, mints, sunflowers, or other

plants; and many of these also make good subjects for the home grounds.

It is important to remember that some perennial herbs begin to fail

after one to three seasons of full bloom. It is a good plan to have new

plants coming on to take their place; or the old roots may be taken up

in the fall and divided, only the fresh and strong parts being planted

again.

Perennial herbs are propagated in various ways,—by seeds, and by

cuttings of the stems and roots, but mostly by the easy method of

division. On the raising of these plants from seeds, William Falconer

writes as follows in Dreer’s “Garden Book” for 1909:—

“Hardy perennials are easily grown from seed. In many cases they are a

little slower than annuals, but with intelligent care they are

successfully raised, and from seed is an excellent way to get up a big

stock of perennials. Many sorts, if sown in spring, bloom the first

year from seeds as early as annuals; for instance: gaillardia, Iceland

poppies, Chinese larkspur, platycodon, etc. Others do not bloom until

the second year.

“The amateur may have more success and less bother growing perennials

from seed sown in the open ground than from any other way. Prepare a

bed in a nice, warm, sheltered spot in the garden, preferably not very

sunny. Let the surface of the bed be raised four or five inches above

the general level, and the soil be a mellow fine earth on the surface.

Draw shallow rows across the surface of the bed three or four inches

apart, and here sow the seeds, keeping the varieties of one kind or

nature as much together as practicable, covering the seeds thinly;

press the whole surface gently, water moderately, then dust a little

fine loose soil over all. If the weather is sunny or windy, shade with

papers or a few branches, but remove these in the evening. When the

seedlings come up, thin them out to stiffen those that are left, and

when they are two or three inches high, they are fit for transplanting

into permanent quarters. All this should be done in early spring, say

March, April, or May. Again, in July or August perennials are very

easily raised out of doors, and much in the same way as above. Or they

may be sown in early spring indoors, in the window, the hotbed, the

coldframe, or the greenhouse, preferably in boxes or pans, as for

growing annuals. Some gardeners sow seed right in the coldframe. I have

tried both ways, and find the boxes best, as the different varieties of

seeds do not come up at the same time, and you can remove them from the

close frame to more airy quarters as soon as the seed comes up,

whereas, if sown in a frame, you would have to give them all the same

treatment. When the seedlings are large enough, I transplant them into

other boxes, and put them into a shady part of the garden, but not

under the shade of trees, as there they will ‘draw’ too much. About the

fifteenth of September plant them in the garden where they are to

bloom, or if the garden is full of summer-flowering plants, put them in

beds in the vegetable garden, to be planted out in the early spring,

and give them a light covering of straw or manure to keep sudden

changes of the weather away from them.”

Hardy perennial herbs may be planted in September and October with

excellent results; also in spring. See that they are protected with

mulch in winter.

_Perennial herbs suitable for lawn and “planting” effects._

Some of the striking plants that are valuable for lawn planting in the

North, chosen chiefly on account of their size, foliage, and habit, are

mentioned in the following brief list. They may or may not be suitable

for flower-gardens. It is impossible to give to this list any degree of

completeness; but the names here printed will be suggestive of the

kinds of things that may be used. The * denotes native plants.

Yucca, _Yucca filamentosa._*

Funkia, _Funkia_, of several species.

Peltate saxifrage, _Saxifraga peltata._*

Rose mallow, _Hibiscus Moscheutos._*

Elecampane, _Inula Helenium_ (Fig. 251).

Wild sunflowers, _Helianthus_* of different species, especially _H.

orygalis, H. giganteus, H. grosse-serratus, H. strumosus_.

[Illustration: Fig. 251. Elecampane. Naturalized in old fields and

along roadsides.]

Compass-plants, _Silphium_* of several species, especially _S.

terebinthinaceum, S. laciniatum, S. perfoliatum_.

Sacaline, _Polygonum Sachalinense_.

Japanese knotweed, _Polygonum cuspidatum_.

Bocconia, _Bocconia cordata_.

Wild wormwood, _Artemisia Stelleriana_* and others.

Butterfly-weed, _Asclepias tuberosa_.*

Wild asters, _Aster_* of many species, especially _A. Novæ-Anglæ_

(best), _A. laevis, A. multiflorus, A. spectabilis_.

Golden-rods, _Solidago_* of various species, especially _S. speciosa,

S. nemoralis, S. juncea, S. gigantea_.

Loose-strife, _Lythrum Salicaria_.

Flags, _Iris_ of many species, some native.

Japanese wind-flower, _Anemone Japonica_.

Goat’s beard, _Aruncus sylvester (Spiræa Aruncus_).*

Baptisia, _Baptisia tinctoria_.*

Thermopsis, _Thermopsis mollis_.*

Wild senna, _Cassia Marilandica_.*

Wild trefoil, _Desmodium Canadense_* and others.

Ribbon grass, _Phalaris arundinacea_* var. _picta_.

Zebra grass, _Eulalia_ (or _Miscanthus_) species, and varieties.

Wild panic grass, _Panicum virgatum_.*

Bambusas (and related things) of several sorts.

Ravenna grass, _Erianthus Ravennæ_.

Arundo, _Arundo Donax_, and var. _variegata_.

Reed, _Phragmites communis_.*

This and the remaining plants of the list should be planted in the

edges of water or in bogs (the list might be greatly extended).

Wild rice, _Zizania aquatica_.*

Cat-tail, _Typha angustifolia_* and _T. latifolia_.*

Lizard’s-tail, _Saururus cernuus_.*

Peltandra, _Peltandra undulata_.*

Orontium, _Orontium aquaticum_.*

Native calla, _Calla palustris_.*

_A brief seasonal flower-garden or border list of herbaceous

perennials._

To facilitate making a selection of perennial herbs for bloom, the

plants in the following list are arranged according to their flowering

season, beginning with the earliest. The name of the month indicates

when they usually begin to bloom. It should be understood that the

blooming season of plants is not a fixed period, but varies more or

less with localities and seasons. These dates are applicable to most of

the middle and northern states. Natives to North America are marked

with an asterisk *. This list is by Ernest Walker.

MARCH

Blue Wind-flower, _Anemone blanda_. 6 in. March-May. Sky-blue,

star-like flowers. Foliage deeply cut. For border and rockwork.

Bloodroot, _Sanguinaria Canadensis_.* 6 in. March-April. Pure white.

Glaucous foliage. Partial shade. Border or rock-work.

APRIL

Mountain Rock-cress, _Arabis albida_. 6 in. April-June. Flowers pure

white; close heads in profusion. Fragrant. For dry places and

rock-work.

Purple Rock-cress, _Aubrietia deltoidea_. 6 in. April-June. Small

purple flowers in great profusion.

Daisy, _Bellis perennis_, 4-6 in. April-July. Flowers white, pink, or

red; single or double. The double varieties are the more desirable.

Cover the plants in winter with leaves. May be raised from seed, like

pansies.

Spring Beauty, _Claytonia Virginica_.* 6 in. April-May. Clusters of

light pink flowers. Partial shade. From six to a dozen should be set

together.

Shooting Star, _Dodecatheon Meadia_.* 1 ft. April-May. Reddish purple

flowers, orange-yellow eye, in clusters. Cool, shady location. Plant

several in a place.

Dog’s-bane, _Doronicum plantagineum_ var_excelsum_. 20 in. April-June.

Large, showy flowers; orange-yellow. Bushy plants.

Liver-leaf, _Hepatica acutiloba_* and _triloba_.* 6 in. April-May.

Flowers small but numerous, varying white and pink. Partial shade.

Hardy Candytuft, _Iberis sempervirens_. 10 in. April-May. Small white

flowers in clusters; profuse. Large, spreading, evergreen tufts.

Alpine Lamp-flower, _Lychnis alpina_.* 6 in. April-May. Flowers

star-like, in showy heads; pink. For border and rockery.

Early Forget-me-not, _Myosotis dissitiflora_. 6 in. April-June. Small

clusters of deep sky-blue flowers. Tufted habit.

[Illustration: Fig. 252. The wild Trillium grandiflorum.]

Everblooming F., _M. palustris_ var. _semperflorens_. 10 in. Light

blue; spreading habit.

Blue-bells, _Mertensia Virginica_.* 1 ft. April-May. Flowers blue,

changing to pink; pendent; tubular; not showy, but beautiful. Rich

soil. Partial shade.

Tree Peony, _Pæonia Moutan_. (See _May_, Pæonia.)

Moss Pink, _Phlox subulata_.* 6 in. April-June. Numerous deep pink,

small flowers; creeping habit; evergreen. Suitable for dry places as a

covering plant.

_Trilliums_.* Of several species; always attractive and useful in the

border (Fig. 252). They are common in rich woods and copses. Dig the

tubers in late summer and plant them directly in the border. The large

ones will bloom the following spring. The same may be said of the

erythronium, or dog’s-tooth violet or adder’s tongue, and of very many

other early wild flowers.

MAY

_Ajuga reptans_. 6 in. May-June. Spikes of purple flowers. Grows well

in shady places; spreading. A good cover plant.

Madwort, _Alyssum saxatile_ var. _compactum_. 1 ft. May-June. Flowers

fragrant, in clusters, clear golden-yellow. Foliage silvery.

Well-drained soil. One of the best yellow flowers.

Columbine, _Aquilegia glandulosa_ and others (Fig. 253). 1 ft.

May-June. Deep blue sepals; white petals. Aquilegias are old favorites.

(See _June_.) The wild _A. Canadensis_* is desirable.

Lily-of-the-Valley, _Convallaria majalis_.* 8 in. May-June. Racemes of

small white bells; fragrant. Well known. Partial shade. (See Chap.

VIII.)

Fumitory, _Corydalis nobilis_. 1 ft. May-June. Large clusters of fine

yellow flowers. Bushy, upright habit. Does well in partial shade.

Bleeding-Heart, _Dicentra spectabilis_. 2-1/2 ft. May-June. Well known.

Racemes of heart-shaped, deep pink and white flowers. Will bear partial

shade.

Crested Iris, _Iris cristata_.* 6 in. May-June. Flowers blue, fringed

with yellow. Leaves sword-shaped.

German Iris, _I. Germanica_. 12-15 in. May-June. Numerous varieties and

colors. Large flowers, 3-4 on a stem. Broad, glaucous, sword-shaped

leaves.

Peony, _Pæonia officinalis._ 2 ft. May-June. This is the well-known

herbaceous peony. There are numerous varieties and hybrids.

[Illustration: Figure 253. One of the columbines.]

Large flowers, 4-6 in. across. Crimson, white, pink, yellowish, etc.

Suitable for lawn or the border. Fig. 250.

Tree Peony, _P. Moutan_. 4ft. April-May. Numerous named varieties.

Flowers as above, excepting yellow. Branched, dense, shrubby habit.

Meadow Sage, _Salvia pratensis_. 2-1/2 ft. May-June, August. Spikes of

deep blue flowers. Branching from the ground.

JUNE

_Achillea Ptarmica, fl. pl._, var. “The Pearl.” 1/2 ft. June-August.

Small double white flowers, in few-flowered clusters. Rich soil.

Wind-flower, _Anemone Pennsylvanica_.* 18 in. June-September. White

flowers on long stems. Erect habit. Does well in the shade.

St. Bruno’s Lily, _Paradisea Liliastrum_. 18 in. June-July. Bell-like,

white flowers in handsome spikes.

Golden-spurred Columbine, _Aquilegia chrysantha_.* 3 ft. June-August.

Golden flowers with slender spurs; fragrant.

Rocky Mountain Columbine, _A. cœrulea_.* 1 ft. June-August. Flowers

with white petals and deep blue sepals, 2-3 in. in diameter. (See

_May_.)

Woodruff, _Asperula odorata_. 6 in. June-July. Small white flowers.

Herbage fragrant when wilted. Does well in shade; spreading habit. Used

for flavoring drinks, scenting and protecting garments.

_Astilbe Japonica_ (incorrectly called Spiræa). 2 ft. June-July. Small

white flowers in a feathery inflorescence. Compact habit.

Poppy Mallow, _Callirrhoë involucrata_.* 10 in. June-October. Large

crimson flowers, with white centers. Trailing habit. For border and

rockery.

Carpathian Harebell, _Campanula Carpatica_ (Fig. 254). 8 in.

June-September. Flowers deep blue. Tufted habit. For border or rockery.

Good for cutting.

_C. glomerata_ var. _Dahurica_. 2 ft. June-August. Deep purple flowers

in terminal clusters. Branching from the ground. Erect habit.

Canterbury Bell, _C. Medium_. An old favorite. It is biennial, but

blooms the first season if sown early.

_Corydalis lutea._ 1 ft. June-September. Flowers yellow, in terminal

clusters. Loose branching habit. Glaucous foliage.

Scotch Pink, _Dianthus plumarius_. 10 in. June-July. White and

pink-ringed flowers on slender stems. Densely tufted habit.

[Illustration: Fig. 254. Campanula Carpatica.]

Fringed Pink, _D. superbus_. 18 in. July-August. Fringed flowers. Lilac

tint.

Gas Plant, _Dictamnus Fraxinella_. 3 ft. June. Flowers purple, showy,

fragrant; in long spikes. Regular habit. Var. _alba_. White.

_Gaillardia aristata_.* 2 ft. June-October. Showy orange and maroon

flowers on long stems. Good for cutting. Hybrid gaillardias offer quite

a variety of brilliant colors.

_Heuchera sanguinea_.* 18 in. June-September. Flowers in open panicles,

scarlet, on clustered stems from a tufted mass of pretty foliage.

Japan Iris, _Iris laevigata (I. Kaempferi)._ 2-3 ft. June-July. Large

flowers of various colors, in variety. Green, sword-like leaves. Dense

tufted habit. Prefers a moist situation.

Blazing Star, _Liatris spicata_.* 2 ft. June-August. Spikes of fine,

small purple flowers. Slender foliage. Unbranched, erect stems. Will

grow in the poorest soil.

Iceland Poppy, _Papaver nudicaule_.* 1 ft. June-October. Bright yellow

flowers. A close, dense habit. Erect, naked stems. The varieties Album,

white, and Miniatum, deep orange, are also desirable.

Oriental Poppy, _P. orientale_. 2-4 ft. June. Flowers 6-8 in. across;

deep scarlet, with a purple spot at the base of each petal. There are

other varieties of pink, orange, and crimson shades.

_Pentstemon barbatus_ var. _Torreyi_.* 3-4 ft. June-September. Crimson

flowers in long spikes. Branching from the base. Erect habit.

XII. The back yard, with heavy flower-garden planting. XII. The back

yard, with heavy flower-garden planting.

Perennial Phlox, _Phlox paniculata_* and hybrids with _P. maculata_.*

2-3 ft. June. A great variety of colors in selfs and variegated forms.

Flowers borne in large, flat panicles. (Figs. 246, 248.)

_Rudbeckia maxima_* 5-6 ft. August. Large flowers; cone-like center and

long, drooping, yellow petals.

Dropwort, _Ulmaria Filipendula_. 3 ft. June-July. White flowers in

compact clusters. Tufted foliage, dark green and handsomely cut. Erect

stems. (Often referred to Spiræa.)

Adam’s Needle, _Yucca filamentosa_.* 4-5 ft. June-July. Waxen white,

pendulous, liliaceous flowers in a great thyrsus. Leaves long, narrow,

dark green, with marginal filaments. For the lawn, and for massing in

large grounds.

JULY

Hollyhock, _Althæa rosea_. 5-8 ft. Summer and fall. Flowers white,

crimson, and yellow, lavender and purple. Stately plants of spire-like

habit; useful for the back of the border, or beds and groups. The newer

double varieties have flowers as fine as a camellia. The plant is

nearly biennial, but in rich, well-drained soil and with winter

protection it becomes perennial. Easily grown from seed, blooming the

second year. Seeds may be sown in August in frames and carried over

winter in the same place. The first year’s bloom is usually the best.

Yellow Chamomile, _Anthemis tinctoria_. 12-38 in. July-November.

Flowers bright yellow, 1-2 in. in diameter. Useful for cutting. Dense,

bushy habit.

_Delphinium Chinense_. 3 ft. July-September. Variable colors; from deep

blue to lavender and white. Fine for the border.

_D. formosum_. 4 ft. July-September. Fine spikes of rich blue flowers.

One of the finest blue flowers cultivated.

_Funkia lancifolia_. (See under _August_.)

_Helianthus multiflorus_* var. _fl. pl_. 4 ft. July-September. Large

double flowers, of a fine golden color. Erect habit. An excellent

flower.

_Lychnis Viscaria_ var. _flore pleno_. 12-15 in. July-August. Double,

deep rose-red flowers in spikes. For groups and masses.

_Monarda didyma_.* 2 ft. July-October. Showy scarlet flowers in

terminal heads.

_Pentstemon grandiflorus.* 2_ ft. July-August. Leafy spikes of showy

purple flowers.

_P. lœvigalus_ var. _Digitalis_.* 3 ft. July-August. Pure white flowers

in spikes, with purple throats.

_Platycodon grandiflorum (Campanula grandiflora)_. 3 ft.

July-September. Deep blue, bell-shaped flowers. Dense, fine, erect

habit.

_P. Mariesi_. 1 ft. July-September. Flowers larger; deep violet-blue.

Heavier foliage.

AUGUST

Day Lily, _Funkia subcordata_. 18 in. August-October. Trumpet,

lily-like, pure-white flowers in clusters, borne upon a stalk from the

midst of a group of heart-shaped green leaves.

_F. lancifolia_ var. _albo-marginata_. July-August. Lavender flowers.

Lance-like leaves margined with white.

Flame Flower, _Kniphofia aloides (Tritoma Uvaria_). 3 ft.

August-September. Bright orange-scarlet flowers, in close, dense

spikes, at the summit of several scape-like stems. Leaves slender,

forming a large tuft. For lawn and borders. Hardy only when covered

with litter or straw in winter.

Cardinal Flower, _Lobelia cardinalis_.* 2-1/4-4 ft. August-September.

Flowers intense cardinal-red, of unrivaled brilliancy. Tall spikes.

Stems clustered; erect.

Giant Daisy, _Chrysanthemum_ (or _Pyrethrum) uliginosum_. 3-5 ft.

July-October. Flowers white, with golden centers. About 2 in. across. A

stout, upright, bushy plant. Useful for cutting.

Golden Glow, _Rudbeckia laciniata_.* 6-7 ft. August-September. Large

double golden-yellow flowers in great profusion. Bushy habit. Cut off

when done flowering. Leaves appear at the base and a new crop of

flowers, on stems about 1 ft. high, appear in October.

Goldenrod, _Solidago rigida_.* 3-5 ft. August-October. Flowers large

for this genus, in close, short racemes in a corymbose-paniculate

cluster. Fine, deep yellow. Erect habit. One of the best of the

goldenrods.

SEPTEMBER

Japanese Wind-flower, _Anemone Japonica_. 2 ft. August-October. Flowers

large, bright red. One of the best autumn flowers.

_A. Japonica_ var. _alba_. Flowers pure white, with yellow centers.

Fine for cutting.

OCTOBER

_Hardy Chrysanthemums_. The Chinese and Japanese Chrysanthemums, so

well known, are hardy in light, well-drained soils, if well protected

with litter or leaves during the winter, and in such situations will

stand without protection south of Indianapolis. Chrysanthemums are

gross feeders, and should have a rich soil.

But there is a race of hardier or border chrysanthemums that is again

coming into favor, and it is sure to give much satisfaction to those

who desire flowers in latest fall. These chrysanthemums are much like

the “artemisias” of our mother’s gardens, although improved in size,

form, and in range of color.

_One hundred extra-hardy perennial herbs_.

The following list of 100 “best hardy perennials” is adapted from a

report of the Central Experimental Farm, Ottawa, Ontario. These plants

are chosen from over 1000 species and varieties that have been on trial

at that place. Those considered to be the best twenty-five for Canada

are marked by a dagger †; and those native to North America by an

asterisk *.

_Achillea Ptarmica flore pleno_.—Height, 1 foot; in bloom fourth week

of June; flowers, small, pure white, double, and borne in clusters;

blooming freely throughout the summer. †

_Aconitum autumnale_.—Height, 3 to 4 feet; September; flowers, bluish

purple, borne in loose panicles.

_Aconitum Napellus_.—Height, 3 to 4 feet; July; flowers, deep blue,

borne on a large terminal spike; desirable for the rear of the border.

_Adonis vernalis_.—Height, 6 to 9 inches; first week of May; flowers,

large, lemon-yellow, borne singly from the ends of the stems.

_Agrostemma (Lychnis) Coronaria_ var. _atropurpurea_.—Height, 1 to 2

feet; fourth week of June; flowers, medium size, bright crimson, borne

singly from the sides and ends of the stems; a very showy plant with

silvery foliage, and continues to bloom throughout the summer.

_Anemone patens_.*—Height 6 to 9 inches; fourth week of April; flowers,

large, and deep purple.

_Anthemis tinctoria_ var. _Kelwayi_.—Height, 1 to 2 feet; fourth week

of June; flowers, large, deep yellow, borne singly on long stems; it

continues to bloom profusely throughout the summer; is very showy and

valuable for cutting. †

_Aquilegia Canadensis_.*—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; third week of May;

flowers, medium size, red and yellow.

_Aquilegia chrysantha_.*—Height, 3 to 4 feet; fourth week of June;

flowers, large, bright lemon-yellow, with long slender spurs; much

later than other columbines. †

_Aquilegia cœrulea_.*—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; fourth week of May;

flowers, large, deep blue with white center and long spurs. †

_Aquilegia glandulosa_.—Height, 1 foot; third week of May; flowers,

large, deep blue with white center and short spurs.

_Aquilegia oxysepala_.—Height, 1 foot; second week in May; flowers,

large, deep purplish blue with blue and yellow centers; a very

desirable early species.

_Aquilegia Stuarti_.—Height 9 to 12 inches; third week of May; flowers,

large, deep blue with white center; one of the best.

_Arabis alpina_.—Height, 6 inches; first week in May; flowers, small,

pure white, in clusters.

_Arnebia echioides_.—Height, 9 inches; third week of May; flowers,

yellow, borne in clusters with petals spotted with purple. One of the

most charming of early flowering plants.

_Asclepias tuberosa_.*—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; third week of July.

Flowers, bright orange, borne in clusters. Very showy.

_Aster alpinus_.*—Height, 9 inches; first week of June; flowers, large,

bright purple, borne on long stems from the base of the plant; the

earliest flowering of all the asters.

_Aster Amellus_ var. _Bessarabicus_.—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; July to

September; flowers, large, deep purple, singly on long stems; very

fine. †

_Aster Novæ-Anglæ_ var. _roseus_.*—Height, 5 to 7 feet; fourth week of

August; flowers, bright pink, borne profusely in large terminal

clusters; very showy.

_Boltonia asteroides_*—Height, 4 to 5 feet; September; flowers, smaller

than the next, pale pink, borne very profusely in large panicles; much

later than the next species.

_Boltonia latisquama_*—Height, 4 feet; first week of August; flowers,

large, white, somewhat resembling asters, and borne very profusely in

large panicles.

_Campanula Carpatica_.—Height, 6 to 9 inches; first week of July;

flowers, medium size, deep blue, borne profusely in loose panicles;

continues in bloom throughout the summer. A white variety of this is

also good.

_Campanula Grossekii_.—Height, 3 feet; first week of July; flowers,

large, deep blue, borne on a long spike.

_Campanula persicifolia_.—Height, 3 feet; flowers, large, blue, borne

in a raceme with long flower stems. There are also white and double

varieties which are good.

_Clematis recta_.—Height, 4 feet; fourth week of June; flowers, small,

pure white, borne profusely in dense clusters. This is a very compact

bushy species and desirable for the rear of the border. _Clematis

Jackmani_ with large deep purple flowers and _Clematis Vitalba_ with

small white flowers, are excellent climbing sorts.

_Convallaria majalis_* (Lily-of-the-valley).—Height, 6 to 9 inches;

latter part of May.

_Coreopsis delphiniflora_.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of July;

flowers, large, yellow, with dark centers and borne singly with long

stems.

_Coreopsis grandiflora_.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; fourth week of June;

flowers, large, deep yellow, borne singly on long stems, blooming

profusely throughout the summer.

_Coreopsis lanceolata_.*—Height, 2 feet; fourth week of June; flowers

large though slightly smaller than the last, and borne on long stems,

blooming throughout the season.†

_Delphinium Cashmerianum_.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July;

flowers, pale to bright blue, in large open heads.†

_Dianthus plumarius flore pleno_.—Height, 9 inches; second week of

June; flowers, large, white or pink, very sweet scented; and two or

three borne on a stem. A variety called Mrs. Simkins is especially

desirable, being very double, white and deliciously perfumed, almost

equaling a carnation. It blooms the fourth week of June.

_Dicentra spectabilis_ (Bleeding Heart).—Height, 3 feet; second week of

May; flowers, heart-shaped, red and white in pendulous racemes.

_Dictamnus albus_.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; second week of June;

flowers, white with an aromatic fragrance, and borne in large terminal

racemes. A well-known variety has purple flowers with darker markings.

_Doronicum Caucasicum_.—Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers,

large, yellow, and borne singly.

_Doronicum plantagineum_ var. _excelsum_.—Height, 2 feet; third week of

May; flowers, large and deep yellow.†

_Epimedium rubrum_.—Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers, small,

bright crimson and white, borne in a loose panicle. A very dainty and

beautiful little plant.

_Erigeron speciosus_.*—Height, 1-1/2 feet; second week of July;

flowers, large, violet-blue, with yellow centers, and borne in large

clusters on long stems.

_Funkia subcordata (grandiflora)._—Height, 1-1/2 feet; August; flowers,

large and white, borne in racemes. The best funkia grown at Ottawa;

both leaves and flowers are handsome.

_Gaillardia aristata_ var. _grandiflora_.*—Height, 1 1/2 feet; third

week of June; flowers, large, yellow, with deep orange centers, and

borne singly on long stems. The named varieties, Superba and

Perfection, are more highly colored and are of great merit. These all

continue blooming profusely until late in the autumn.†

_Gypsophila paniculata_ (Infant’s breath).—Height, 2 feet; second week

of July; flowers, small, white, borne profusely in large open panicles.

_Helenium autumnale_*—Height, 6 to 7 feet; second week of July;

flowers, large, deep yellow, borne in large heads; very ornamental in

late summer.

_Helianthus doronicoides_.*—Height, 6 to 7 feet; second week of August;

flowers, large, bright yellow, and borne singly; continues blooming for

several weeks.

_Helianthus multiflorus_.*—Height, 4 feet; flowers, large, double,

bright yellow, and borne singly; a very striking late-flowering

perennial.

_Heuchera sanguinea_*—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; first week of June;

flowers, small, bright, scarlet, borne in open panicles; continues

blooming throughout the summer.

_Hemerocallis Dumortierii_.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; second week of June;

flowers, large, orange-yellow, with a brownish tinge on the outside,

and three or four on a stem.†

_Hemerocallis flava_.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; latter part of June;

flowers, bright orange-yellow and fragrant.†

_Hemerocallis minor_.—Height, 1 to 1-1/2 feet; second week of July;

flowers, medium size and yellow; blooms later than the two preceding

species and has a smaller flower and narrower foliage.

_Hibiscus Moscheutos_.*—Height, 5 feet; third week of August; flowers,

very large, varying in color from white to deep pink. A variety called

“Crimson Eye” is very good. This plant makes a fine show in late

summer.

_Hypericum Ascyron_ (or _pyramidatum_).*—Height, 3 feet; fourth week of

July; flowers, large, yellow, and borne singly.

_Iberis sempervirens_.—Height, 6 to 12 inches; third week of May;

flowers, pure white, fragrant, and borne in dense flat clusters.†

_Iris Chamœiris_.—Height, 6 inches; fourth week of May; flowers, bright

yellow with brown markings.

_Iris flavescens_.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; first week of June;

flowers, lemon-yellow with brown markings.

_Iris Florentina_.—Height, 2 feet; first week of June; flowers, very

large, pale blue or lavender, sweet scented.†

_Iris Germanica_.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of June; flowers,

very large, of elegant form; color, deep lilac and bright purple, sweet

scented. There is a large number of choice varieties of this iris.†

_Iris lœvigata (Kœmpferi)._—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; first week of

July; flowers, purple and modified colors, very large and distinct in

color and shape.†

_Iris pumila_.—Height, 4 to 6 inches; third week of May; flowers, deep

purple. There are several varieties.

_Iris Sibirica_.—Height, 3 to 4 feet; fourth week of May; flowers, deep

blue, borne on long stems in clusters of two or three. This species has

many varieties.

_Iris variegata_.—Height, 1 to 1 1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers,

yellow and brown, veined with various shades of brown.

_Lilium auratum_.—Height, 3 to 5 feet; July; flowers, very large,

white, with a yellow central band on each petal, and thickly spotted

with purple and red. The most showy of all lilies and a splendid

flower. This has proved hardy at the Central Experimental Farm,

although it has been reported tender in some localities.†

_Lilium Canadense_.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; latter part of May; flowers,

yellow to pale red with reddish spots, pendulous.

_Lilium elegans_.—Height, 6 inches; first week of July; flowers, pale

red; several varieties are better than the type.

_Lilium speciosum_.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; July; flowers, large, white,

tinged and spotted with deep pink and red. Hardier than _Lilium_

_auratum_ and almost as fine. There are several fine varieties.†

_Lilium superbum_.*—Height, 4 to 6 feet; first week of July; flowers,

very numerous, orange red, thickly spotted with dark brown. An

admirable lily for the rear of the border. †

_Lilium tenuifolium_.—Height, 1 1/2 to 2 feet; third week of June;

flowers, pendulous and bright scarlet. One of the most graceful of all

lilies.

_Lilium tigrinum_.—Height, 2 to 4 feet; flowers, large, deep orange,

spotted thickly with purplish black.

_Linum perenne_.—Height, 1 1/2 feet; first week of June; flowers, large

deep blue, borne in loose panicles, continuing throughout the summer.

_Lobelia cardinalis_.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; August; flowers, bright

scarlet, borne in terminal racemes; very showy.

_Lychnis Chalcedonica flore pleno_.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of

July; flowers, bright crimson, double, and borne in terminal racemes.

_Lysimachia clethroides_.—Height, 3 feet; fourth week of July; flowers,

white, borne in long spikes. A very striking late-flowering perennial.

_Myosotis alpestris_.—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers,

small, bright blue with a yellowish eye. A very profuse bloomer.

_Œnothera Missouriensis._*—Height, 1 foot; fourth week of June;

flowers, very large, rich yellow, and borne singly, throughout the

summer.

_Pœonia officinalis_.—Height, 2 to 4 feet; early part of July. The

double-flowered varieties are the best, and can be obtained in several

colors and shades, †

_Papaver nudicaule_*—Height, 1 foot; second week of May; flowers,

medium size, orange, white, or yellow, almost continuously until late

autumn. †

_Papaver orientale_.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week of June; flowers,

very large, scarlet, and variously marked, according to variety, there

being many forms.

_Pentstemon barbatus_ var. _Torreyi_.*—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first week

of July; flowers, deep red, borne in long spikes, very ornamental.

_Phlox amœna_.*—Height, 6 inches; second week of May; flowers, medium

size, bright pink, in compact clusters.

_Phlox decussata_* (the garden perennial hybrids).—Height, 1 to 3 feet;

third week of July; flowers, of many beautiful shades and colors, are

found in the large number of named varieties of this phlox, which

continues to bloom until late in the autumn. †

_Phlox reptans_.*—Height, 4 inches; fourth week of May; flowers, medium

size, purple, and borne in small clusters.

_Phlox subulata_* _(setacea)_.—Height, 6 inches; third week of May;

flowers, medium size, deep pink, and borne in small clusters.

_Platycodon grandiflorum_.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; second week of

July; flowers, very large, deep blue, borne singly or in twos.†

_Platycodon grandiflorum_ var. _album_.—A white-flowered variety of the

above and makes a fine contrast to it when they are grown together. It

blooms a few days earlier than the species.

_Platycodon Mariesii_.—Height, 1 foot; second week of July; flowers,

large and deep blue.

_Polemonium cœruleum_.*—Height, 2 feet; second week of June; flowers,

deep blue, borne in terminal spikes.

_Polemonium reptans_.*—Height, 6 inches; third week of May; flowers,

medium in size, blue, and borne profusely in loose clusters.

_Polemonium Richardsoni_.*—Height, 6 inches; third week of May;

flowers, medium in size, blue, borne profusely in pendulous panicles.

_Potentilla hybrida_ var. _versicolor_.—Height, 1 foot; fourth week of

June; flowers, large, deep orange and yellow, semi-double.

_Primula cortusoides_.—Height, 9 inches; third week of May; flowers,

small, deep rose, in compact heads.

_Pyrethrum_ (or _Chrysanthemum_) _uliginosum_.—Height, 4 feet;

September; flowers, large, white with yellow centers, and borne singly

on long stems.

_Rudbeckia laciniata_* (Golden Glow).—Height, 5 to 6 feet; August;

flowers, large, lemon-yellow, double, and borne on long stems. One of

the best of lately introduced perennials. †

_Rudbeckia maxima_.*—Height, 5 to 6 feet; July and August; flowers,

large, with a long cone-shaped center and bright yellow rays, and borne

singly. The whole plant is very striking.

_Scabiosa Caucascia_.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers,

large, light blue, and borne singly on long stems, very freely

throughout remainder of the summer.

_Solidago Canadensis_* (Golden-rod).—Height, 3 to 5 feet; first week of

August; flowers, small, golden yellow, and borne in dense panicles.

_Spiræa_ (properly _Aruncus_)_ astilboides_.—Height, 2 feet; fourth

week of June; flowers, small, white, very numerous, and borne in many

branched panicles. Both foliage and flowers are ornamental.

_Spiræa_ (or _Ulmaria_) _Filipendula_.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; third week

of June; flowers, pure white, borne profusely in loose panicles. The

foliage of this species is also very good. There is a double flowered

variety which is very effective. †

_Spiræa (Ulmaria) purpurea_ var. _elegans_.—Height, 2 to 3 feet; first

week of July; flowers, whitish with crimson anthers, borne very

profusely in panicles.

_Spiræa Ulmaria (Ulmaria pentapetala_).—Height, 3 to 4 feet; second

week of July; flowers, very numerous, dull white, borne in large

compound heads, having a soft, feathery appearance.

_Spiræa venusta (Ulmaria rubra_ var. _venusta_).—Height, 4 feet; second

week of July; flowers, small, bright pink, borne profusely in large

panicles. †

_Statice latifolia_.—Height, 1-1/2 feet; first week of July; flowers,

small, blue, borne very profusely in loose panicles. Very effective in

the border.

_Thalictrum aquilegifolium_.—Height, 4 to 5 feet; fourth week of June;

flowers, small, white to purplish, very numerous and borne in large

panicles.

_Trollius Europæs_.—Height, 1-1/2 to 2 feet; fourth week of May;

flowers, large, bright yellow, continuing a long time.

4. BULBS AND TUBERS

_(See the particular culture of the different kinds in Chapter VIII;

and instructions for forcing on *p. 345.)_

It is customary to write of bulbs and tubers together, because the tops

and flowers of all the bulbous and tuberous plants spring from large

reservoirs of stored food, giving rise to similar methods of culture

and of storage.

Structurally, the bulb is very different from the tuber, however. A

bulb is practically a large dormant bud, the scales representing the

leaves, and the embryo stem lying in the center. Bulbs are condensed

plants in storage. The tuber, on the other hand, is a solid body, with

buds arising from it. Some tubers represent thickened stems, as the

Irish potato, and some thickened roots, as probably the sweet-potato,

and some both stem and root, as the turnip, parsnip, and beet. Some

tubers are very bulb-like in appearance, as the corms of crocus and

gladiolus.

Using the word “bulb” in the gardener’s sense to include all these

plants as a cultural group, we may throw them into two classes: the

hardy kinds, to be planted in fall; and the tender kinds, to be planted

in spring.

_Fall-planted bulbs_.

The fall-planted bulbs are of two groups: the “Holland bulbs” or early

spring bloomers, as crocus, tulip (Fig. 255), hyacinth (Fig. 262),

narcissus (Fig. 260), squill (Fig. 256), snowdrop; the summer bloomers,

as lilies (Figs. 258, 259). The treatments of the two groups are so

similar that they may be discussed together.

[Illustration Fig: 255. Tulips, the warmest of spring flowers.]

All these bulbs may be planted as soon as they are mature; but in

practice they are kept till late September or October before they are

put into the ground, as nothing is gained by earlier planting, and,

moreover, the ground is usually not ready to receive them until some

other crop is removed.

[Illustration: Fig 256. One of the squills.--_Scilla bifolia_.]

These bulbs are planted in the fall (1) because they keep better in the

ground than when stored; (2) because they will take root in fall and

winter and be ready for the first warmth of spring; (3) and because it

is usually impossible to get on the ground early enough in spring to

plant them with much hope of success for that season.

The bulbs lie dormant until spring, so far as outward appearances go;

they are mulched to insure that they will not start in warm weather of

fall or winter, and to protect the ground from heaving.