VI.

Settled for another Winter.--Arrival of old Friends.--Dogs and

Sledging.--A Russian Christening.

Detained for another winter, we endeavored at once to make the

acquaintance of the inhabitants of the village, and to become

familiar with the country in its vicinity. We were introduced to

all the people of note, and kindly entertained by them. We made

pedestrian excursions for several miles in every direction, and

visited all the common places of resort. The scenery was picturesque,

and the view from the elevations was beautiful and grand. The Awatska

Bay, or outer harbor, as it is called, is completely land-locked, and

at the same time so extensive, that a thousand ships might ride at

anchor in it with safety. The distant mountains, and particularly the

high peak Awatska, add greatly to the landscape. The latter presents

the imposing spectacle of a volcano in full blast, always overhung

with a cloud of smoke, and constantly belching fire and lava.

We had only one source of annoyance at the village during the early

part of our stay, and we soon became well used to that. I refer to

the barking of the numerous dogs, though it can scarcely be called

barking, for they howl like a wolf. At sunset regularly they would

begin their serenade at one end of the settlement,--which, by the

way, extended all round the harbor,--and in the course of half an

hour all the voices would join in the chorus, and keep it up all

night long. With this single temporary drawback, we passed our time

very pleasantly until the first of November. By then we had visited

on foot all the places in the more immediate neighborhood, and we

concluded to make a short boat excursion to a small river named

Paratunka, to see some warm springs situated several miles from

its mouth. This spring issues from the ground in a boiling state,

and spreads out over a basin excavated for its reception. It forms

an excellent bathing-place, being of suitable depth, with a sandy

bottom, and the bather can choose any degree of warmth he pleases.

The water is impregnated with sulphur and other minerals. We found

here some Russian invalids who had come to enjoy the use of the

spring. All the rivers in the neighborhood abounded in salmon,

though it was so late in the season; and we protracted our stay for

a day or two, hunting and fishing, and boiling our game in the hot

water of the spring.

[Illustration: PETROPOWLOWSK IN KAMTCHATKA]

On our return to the village we were surprised to find one of our

old Norfolk Sound friends, Lieutenant Davidoff, who had arrived at

the harbor in command of the little new vessel built at Sitcha, and

called the Awos. He had left the Sound in August, accompanied by the

Juno, under the command of Lieutenant Schwostoff, and having Baron

von Resanoff on board to be carried to Ochotsk. He had parted with

them off the Kurile Islands. About the middle of November Lieutenant

Schwostoff made his appearance with the Juno. After landing his

Excellency about Ochotsk, he received orders to proceed to one of

the southernmost of the Kurile Islands, and break up a Japanese

settlement reported to have been established there. He found at the

place four Japanese, with a large stock of goods for trade with

the islanders, consisting of rice, tobacco, fish-nets, lacquered

ware, salt, cotton, silk, and many other articles; all of which he

seized without opposition, and brought Japanese, goods, and all to

Kamtchatka. Thus we met our old friends in a very unexpected manner.

As we were doomed to pass another winter in this region, their

company was very pleasant, and to have the Juno in sight again was

especially agreeable to me.

I now took lodgings in a shanty owned and occupied by a very clever

old man, named Andra, and his wife and little boy. I called him in

a familiar way Starruk, that is old man, and his wife Starruke,

old woman. He was quite thrifty for the place, and was one of the

few in the village who owned and kept a cow. This was a fortunate

circumstance, for good milk was a rarity in that section. His shanty

was warm and comfortable, and was divided into three apartments. In

one corner of the largest they made a bunk for me, and curtained it

round. My man Parker slept in the same room on a movable bed. In

the next room, which was the cooking-room, there was a large brick

oven, or furnace, and on the top of this slept Starruk, his wife,

and little boy. The third apartment was devoted to the cow and her

fodder. At this place I took my meals at night and morning, but dined

by general invitation at the Company’s table, at the house of the

Superintendent. Comfortably settled in my new quarters, I prepared

for a long winter’s siege.

It was necessary to be provided with a set of good dogs and a sledge.

With the assistance of Starruk I was soon possessed of five of the

best animals of the kind, and had them tied up near the house, that

they might get accustomed to me, and be ready for use. In the spring

of the year the dogs are turned loose, and left to provide for

themselves, in the best way they can. Hence they are great thieves

until the herring season comes, when they have an abundant supply of

food, which they go into the water and catch for themselves, until

they become very fat, and unfit for use.[31] At that season, too,

great quantities of the herring are caught by the owners of the dogs,

and split and dried in the sun, to feed them in the winter, when they

give them nothing else.

I also purchased a first-rate sledge, at once light and handsome, fur

garments, Kamtchatka boots, bear-skin, and everything needed to make

my equipage complete; and, now fully prepared, I waited impatiently

for the snow. There had been already several squalls, but about the

last of November the ground was well covered and the winter set in.

My dogs were in good travelling condition, and I now made my first

essay, with three of them to begin with. The style in which they

tumbled me about in the snow was “a caution,” as Paddy says, and

furnished great amusement to the villagers. But I persevered, with

a determination to make myself master of the business, and at the

end of a week was quite an adroit performer. The sledges were so

constructed, that it required nearly as much skill and practice to

keep in equilibrium as in skating; but when well understood, they

afforded a most splendid recreation and agreeable exercise. Being

soon able to harness and manage my five dogs with dexterity, we used

frequently to make a party, consisting of Langsdorff, Schwostoff,

Davidoff, and Miasnikoff, and go out on excursions to the neighboring

villages, from ten to twenty miles distant. When the weather was

unfavorable, we had balls and parties; and in this way the weeks and

months of the long winter passed off quite cheerfully.

About the 1st of January, 1807, the Governor-General, Koscheleff,

who resides at Nischney, which is the capital of Kamtchatka, made

his annual visit of inspection to all the military posts on the

peninsula. His entrance into Petropowlowsk with a long handsome

sledge, a Kamtchadale on each side, as conductors, and a string of

twenty dogs, was quite a new and pleasing sight to me. During his

stay of five days, we had royal feastings and visitings; and when

he left, half the village accompanied him to the distance of ten or

fifteen miles, myself among the number. We made a string nearly a

mile long.

The sledging in Kamtchatka is not without some adverse casualties to

the best of managers. One occurred to me which I will narrate. I was

coming from Melka, an interior village, with a load of frozen salmon,

in company with my landlord, Starruk, and, my dogs being better than

his, I got several miles ahead of him. The snow was deep, but the

top was crusted, and the underbrush all covered. The surface was

perfectly smooth, but interrupted by numerous large trees; and to

avoid them our track was serpentine. At last we came to an inclined

plane of a mile or so in length, and, my sledge being heavily laden,

it became necessary for me to be constantly on my guard, and keep a

sharp lookout. Accordingly I took the usual preliminary precaution in

such cases, of sitting sideways, with the left hand hold of the fore

part, left foot on the runner, and my right leg extended; my foot,

slipping over the snow, operated as a sort of an outrigger. The dogs

at the same time, fearful lest the sledge should run on to them, went

down the declivity like lightning. The trees seemed to grow thicker

and thicker, and to avoid them it soon became hard up and hard down

with me. At last, coming to a sharp curve to the right, the sledge,

shearing to the other side, struck with such force as to scatter my

whole establishment, and I received such a blow on the head that it

stunned me and laid me out on the snow unconscious. When I came to

a little, and looked up, I saw my sledge was partly a wreck, four

of my dogs had broken from their harness and gone on, while one,

left fast in his gear, was sitting on his haunches, and watching me

with wonder, as much as to say, “How came you here?” It was not long

before Starruk came up. He asked me what was the matter. I replied

that some one in passing had run foul of me. “No,” said he, “I

guess you run foul of that tree”; which, on collecting my scattered

thoughts I found to be the fact. But as there were no bones broken,

I brightened up, and, with the old man’s assistance, caught my dogs

again, repaired damages and pursued my journey, not a little worse

for my tumble.

[Illustration: SLEDGE AND EQUIPMENTS IN KAMTCHATKA]

I will mention another circumstance which occurred to me,--not that

there was anything extraordinary in it, but merely to show the

sagacity of dogs, and the convenience of travelling with them. I

was coming from a village about ten miles distant. It was dusk when

I started, and night soon closed in with Egyptian darkness and an

arctic snow-storm. I could not see even my dogs. The new snow soon

covered and obliterated the old track. It was difficult to tell

whether I was going ahead or standing still, without putting my foot

through the new-fallen snow down to the old crust. In this way I

went on for an hour or so, the dogs making very slow progress, and

very hard work of it. Not being able to see anything, I somehow or

other became persuaded that the dogs had inclined to the left of the

beaten track, and consequently I kept urging them to the right. Thus

I went on for some time, until I found myself in a forest of large

trees, and had much difficulty in keeping clear of them. At last I

became decidedly bewildered, but convinced that I had lost my way.

Not knowing whither I was going, and fearing that I might wander, the

Lord knew where, during the long night, I concluded to halt, and make

my dogs fast to a tree. I then sat awhile on my sledge, and listened,

to see if I could hear anybody, and finally prepared my bear-skin and

fur garments for a night’s bivouac. I had not lain more than an hour

before I heard the howling of dogs; my own immediately answered them.

I found they were approaching, and when I judged them to be within

hailing distance, I called out. A man called out in return, and soon

drove up. It was a Kamtchadale coming from Petropowlowsk. It appeared

that I had urged the dogs a considerable distance from the proper

track, which, with the new-comer’s assistance, I regained. He told me

not to attempt to guide the dogs, but to let them pick their own way.

I accordingly sat on my sledge for an hour or so, scarcely realizing

that I was moving, till at last I turned my eyes up, and found myself

right under the light of my own window.

These little mishaps occurred while I was yet a novice in the art

of sledging; but I soon became acquainted with the habits and

dispositions of my dogs, and they became accustomed to me, so that I

travelled fearlessly, alone or in company, and made excursions to all

the villages in the southern part of the peninsula within a hundred

miles of Petropowlowsk. While I was amusing myself in the southern,

the Doctor was traversing the northern part of Kamtchatka all by

himself, and collecting specimens of natural history.

I was always an admirer of the rigid adherence of the Russians to

their religious forms and ceremonies. I never saw a Russian, high

or low, who did not, both before and after eating, ask a blessing,

and give thanks to God for his bounty, apparently with a sincere

and thankful heart. Yet there were some things very absurd in their

ceremonies. For instance, I was invited to the christening of a

child at the house of the Superintendent, and requested to stand

as godfather with Dr. Langsdorff, as it was necessary, I was told,

to have two godfathers and two godmothers.[32] At the appointed

time we repaired to the house, where we found the pope and numerous

guests already assembled. The pope had brought with him a small box,

resembling a tea-caddy, containing, as was said, consecrated oil. A

large tub full of water was placed in the centre of the room, and

the pope’s apparatus near at hand. He then commenced the operation

with prayers, after which, he took the child in his arms and plunged

it under the water. Then, with a small brush and some oil from the

box, he crossed the child all over its body and legs, and afterwards

marched round the tub, and we, the godfathers and godmothers,

followed, in Indian file, three times around. The child was then

given to one of the godfathers, crossed again, and round the tub we

went three times more. And so it continued until we all had taken

our turns, and made fifteen circuits of the tub. Now I thought this,

or the greater part of it, a nonsensical ceremony, and a piece of

rigmarole; but it was not my part to find fault or object to it, and

I willingly conformed to the custom.

When it was over, the tub was taken away, and a table put in its

place, madam, the mother of the child, brought on the goodies,

pies of flesh and pies of fish, cakes of various kinds, preserved

berries, and many other things; but what astounded me most was that

a bottle of real ardent spirits found its way to the table on this

extra occasion, an article which had disappeared from among our

stores several months previous. The pope paid his respects to it with

peculiar unction, and a glowing countenance, and the rest of us were

not slow in following suit. This was one of the friendly gatherings

to which I made it a point never to refuse an invitation; and I found

the Russians very fond of celebrating birthdays, christenings, and as

many holidays as they could make an excuse for.

VII.

Voyage to Ochotsk.--Journey from Ochotsk to Yakutsk.

About the last of March the snow began to disappear rapidly, and by

the middle of April the ground was so bare that our sledging parties

were abandoned. The ice had left the bay, and all hands were at work,

under the directions of Lieut. Schwostoff and Davidoff, sawing and

breaking up the ice in the inner harbor, in order to extricate the

Juno and Awos, which had been preparing to sail for some time. By

the 25th the channel was cleared, and the two vessels put to sea,

with the four Japanese who had passed the winter with us. Their

destination was the northern Japanese Islands, where they intended to

land their passengers, and make some further attempts to establish an

intercourse with the people.

By this movement I was prompted to get my little craft afloat and

prepare for the remainder of my voyage. I was admonished, by those

acquainted with the breaking up of the ice in the rivers at the head

of the Ochotsk Sea, not to be in a hurry; but my anxiety to be off

rendered me deaf to all remonstrances; and on the 22d of May I was

ready. At this point I was beset by a number of persons, both male

and female, for a passage to Ochotsk. I concluded to take five in

addition to Madam Lariwanoff and daughter, viz. one elderly widow

woman, one old woman and her daughter, one very respectable young

man in the Company’s service, and one other gentleman. Our party

now numbered eighteen. We were tolerably well equipped, and had

an abundant supply of such provisions as the place afforded. When

our arrangements were all completed, Doctor Langsdorff and myself

devoted a day to taking leave of the many friends who had entertained

us during the winter; and I particularly of my old landlord and

landlady, Starruk and Starruke. To the former I paid what he thought

a very liberal compensation for the apartment I had occupied at his

house. I also made him a present of my sledge, its equipage, and my

dogs, with the exception of one, which I took with me. To Starruke

I gave my bedding, curtains, and furniture. I then bade good-bye

to these warm-hearted people, and left them with their warmest

prayers for a prosperous voyage. Our passengers now came on board,

and, after making the best accommodations for them our contracted

quarters would admit, on the 26th, with fair weather, we bade adieu

to Petropowlowsk, and weighed anchor.

Favorable winds continued just long enough to give us a good offing,

when they became light and adverse, with calms, and so continued for

several days. On the 30th, having just taken a brisk breeze, which

was driving us along, for a wonder, at nearly five knots, we ran

into a large whale which was lying near the surface. We somehow slid

up his back so as to raise our little vessel two or three feet and

throw her over on her side four or five streaks. It was like striking

a rock, and brought us to a complete standstill. The monster soon

showed himself, gave a spout, “kicked” his flukes and went down. He

did not appear to be hurt, nor were we hurt, but most confoundedly

frightened. I sounded the pump immediately, and found that all was

safe as to leakage, and we continued on our course quite satisfied

with the result.

June 3d, we passed through between the second and third Kurile

Islands from the southern part of Kamtchatka, and entered the Sea of

Ochotsk. Here again we were annoyed by the calms, which continued

with but little variance until the 14th, when we had reached latitude

58°. We now began to meet ice, at first so scattered that we thought

it possible to push through it; but after working in amongst it for

a few hours, it became so compact as to be impassable, and extended

east, west, and north as far as the eye could reach, even from the

masthead a solid mass. Finding it impossible to proceed any farther,

and as the ice was closing rapidly around us, I deemed it advisable

to avail myself of that better part of valor, discretion, and pole

out as we had poled in; for I had soon discovered that our little

craft was too slight to deal freely with heavy ice. Having gained

the open water, I steered to the eastward all day without finding

any passage-way. The wind proving unfavorable for sailing in that

direction, we turned and went westward. Thus we continued for ten

days, making various attempts to get clear of the ice, and at last

succeeded. On the 26th, at meridian, we found our latitude 59°20′,

and the land was in sight. On the 27th, we anchored off the mouth of

the river Ochota. At 2 P. M., the tide turned, and we crossed the

bar, entered the harbor of Ochotsk, and made fast to the Company’s

wharf. Thus terminated a long and tedious passage of thirty-three

days.

We were told here that the ice had only left the rivers and bays

four or five days. We were likewise informed, to our great grief,

that his Excellency Baron von Resanoff had died at Krasnojarsk in

Siberia, on his route to St. Petersburg. He had fallen from his

horse on the road from Ochotsk to Yakutsk, which was supposed to be

the cause of his death. The passport and letters I had previously

received from his Excellency at once made me acquainted with the

Company’s Superintendent, Mr. Petroff; likewise with the commandant

of the port, Captain Bucharin. By both these gentlemen I was treated

with the utmost kindness and civility; and, knowing my desire to be

on my way to St. Petersburg, they were both anxious to afford me

every facility in their power. A taboo was immediately put upon a

sufficient number of the first horses that arrived from Yakutsk. With

the greatest possible despatch, it was necessary to wait a few days,

and in the mean time I was taken round the place to see the lions.

They did not amount to much. The town was situated on a sand spit,

washed by the sea on one side and the river Ochota on the other. The

river Kuchtin unites with the Ochota near the harbor’s mouth, which,

at the best, is an indifferent one, and not accessible to vessels

drawing more than eight feet of water. The town is joined to the

mainland by a narrow neck of marshy ground, which is often inundated.

In fact, it appeared to me that any extra rise of the river or sea

would swamp the whole place. Some ship-building was going on here,

and many convicts were employed in the government service.

For my convenience, the privilege was accorded to me by the Company

of selecting a Russian subject to accompany me on my road, as a

kind of an assistant. A young man by the name of Kutsnetsoff,

or Smith, was pointed out as one desirous of going with me, but

the Superintendent did not feel authorized to release him from

the service, unless I should think proper to select him, and I

accordingly did so. He had been ten years at the settlements on the

Aleutian Islands, and was anxious to return to Irkutsk, his native

place. He had a brother in Moscow, a merchant in high standing, who

was at the head of the Company’s establishment there.

On the morning of July 3d, my horses, eleven in number, were brought

out. They did not look very promising, as they had been overworked on

the route hither. This was rather discouraging, for it was important

that they should be in a good condition for a journey of 500 miles,

through a country with no signs of a settlement except a few log

shanties at great distances asunder, and no road but a serpentine

footpath; moreover, we had a fair amount of luggage, and for comfort

and convenience we were obliged to carry a tent, cooking-utensils,

and bear-skins, &c. for bedding. Bad as they were, these horses were

better than none, and I must make the best of them.

Having completed my preparations, I took leave of my highly esteemed

friend, Dr. Langsdorff, who intended to remain a week or so for the

promotion of his favorite object; also of Madam Lariwanoff and her

daughter, my other passengers, and sailors,--particularly of the

three Alashka Indians, who had proved themselves excellent men,

and rendered me good service.[33] They fell upon their knees and

entreated me to take them with me. As this was impracticable, I

could only make them a gratuity in rubles, and recommend them to the

kindness of Mr. Petroff, in whose employ and charge they were. Having

finished our leave-takings, we mounted our horses. There were five of

us,--myself and two aids, Parker and Kutsnetsoff, and two Yakutas,

the owners of the horses, and acting as guides. Three of the other

six horses carried our luggage, and the remaining three were kept in

reserve for a change on the road. Dr. Langsdorff, the Superintendent,

Captain Bucharin, and other friends, accompanied us to the outskirts

of the town to take another and a final farewell, and we then put

spurs to our horses, and struck into the woods. We went on at quite a

spirited pace until five o’clock, when we arrived at a small clearing

called Medwescha Golowa, or Bear’s Head, where there were a few huts.

Here we dismounted to lunch, and rest our horses for half an hour;

and then resumed our journey. At seven in the evening we pitched

our tent, and camped for the night, in a good place for our horses

to graze. As we carried no provender, this was a matter of great

importance throughout our whole journey. We turned our beasts loose,

and the Yakutschians watched them by turns through the night. The

distance we travelled this day since eleven o’clock was 45 versts.[34]

Ochotsk is situated in latitude 59°30′, and Yakutsk in about 63°.

The direction of our course was west-northwest and the distance in

a bee-line 500 miles; but by reason of the tortuous nature of the

route we were obliged to pursue, the distance was much increased. In

such an extent of wild country there were doubtless many objects that

would have attracted the attention of the man of science; but being

myself neither naturalist, botanist, nor geologist, I had no call to

search to the right or to the left for specimens. My business was

to push on as fast as my horses could carry me, having an especial

regard for my bills of exchange. I paid but little attention to the

names of the numerous small rivers and mountains which we crossed,

merely noticing some of the principal. To me the country wore even a

greater degree of sameness than other unsettled regions.

July 4th. We collected our horses and struck our tent at 7 A. M.,

mounted, and continued our journey. Several large caravans of

horses passed us in the forenoon, laden with flour and provisions

for Ochotsk. In the afternoon, we crossed a ridge of tolerably high

mountains, and then came upon swampy ground. At five o’clock we

reached a small river; but it was so deep we were obliged to ferry

our luggage over in a boat, and swim our horses. We went on until

eight in the evening, when we encamped. The distance travelled this

day was 47 versts.

July 5th. We had a thick fog and rain through the night. It cleared

up in the morning, and we mounted at seven, and continued our journey

through valleys and over mountains, with extremely bad travelling,

the whole day. The weather growing hot, we were sorely annoyed by the

mosquitos, and were obliged to wear leather gloves and a kind of hood

in the shape of a sun-bonnet, with a gauze veil to protect the face.

Our white horses became perfectly pink with the blood drawn from them

by these insects. We pitched our tents at six in the evening. The

distance travelled this day was 55 versts.

July 6th. Started at seven, and had pleasant, but rather warm

weather. In the course of the day we forded several small rivers

without unpacking our horses, and passed four caravans with stores

for Ochotsk. At five in the afternoon we came to a small group of

shanties where was kept a magazine of provisions and a stud of horses

for government emergencies. This place was 190 versts from Ochotsk.

Taking tea here, we proceeded until seven o’clock, and then encamped

in a tolerably good grazing-place. The distance travelled this day

was 55 versts.

July 7th. Started this morning at six. The travelling was extremely

bad, and the ground swampy; the horses sank in the mire up to their

saddle-girths. By noon we came to better going. Passed to-day, beside

caravans, several droves of cattle on the way to Ochotsk. Distance,

60 versts.

July 8th. Fine weather, but the travelling very poor again. At ten

in the morning arrived at the banks of the river Allacjun, one of

the largest tributaries of the Aldan. We ferried our baggage across,

and swam our horses. At three in the afternoon we halted and turned

our beasts out to graze. Owing to the uneven and miry road they had

passed over, they were much fatigued and galled. Distance this day,

40 versts.

July 9th. Started at six in the morning. Passed several caravans,

and at five in the afternoon met the government post for Ochotsk.

At nine, pitched our tent on the bank of a small tributary of the

Allacjun. Distance this day, 65 versts.

July 10th. Rained all the fore part of the day. Our route was through

a gorge between high ridges of mountains. Distance travelled, 50

versts.

July 11th. The weather was pleasant and warm, the country rugged and

mountainous. At four in the afternoon we came to the foot of a high

and steep mountain, and halted to make preparations for the ascent.

Our horses had already become so weak and travel-worn, that it was

doubtful whether they would succeed in crossing it. My Yakutschian

guides lifted their tails to ascertain their strength. On those that

had limber tails the weight of the baggage was reduced, and increased

on those that had stiff tails. I noticed them also pulling hair from

the manes, and tying it to the branches of trees; whether this was

done to invoke the good, or propitiate the evil spirits, I could

not make out. After they had adjusted things to suit them, we took

off our coats, and started, leading our beasts. The ground was so

very springy that it was with great difficulty that we could pick

our way. Two of the baggage horses mired before we reached the top,

and we were obliged to unload in order to extricate them. We finally

gained the summit,--which after all was not so very high,--and,

having rested a little, descended. Continuing our course through a

narrow valley, at 6 P. M. we crossed the river Allakum, and stopped

at a small cluster of shanties on its left bank. There was a ferry

for bipeds, but such of the poor horses as were able were obliged

to swim. The stream was so rapid, that mine had a hard tug to get

across. Distance this day, 50 versts.

It was necessary to make a halt soon for a day or two to recruit,

and this was a favorable place. The government had a station and

postilion here. Four of my horses were completely broken down, and I

left them, and hired six fresh ones. We also replenished our stock of

provisions.

July 14th. Mounted at 5 A. M., and passed over a very high mountain,

and descended into a narrow, serpentine valley, in which we travelled

the better part of the day. We passed several caravans and droves of

beef cattle. Distance, 55 versts.

July 15th. Our route this day over boggy ground again, and the

travelling was therefore as poor as ever. Our horses’ backs were very

sore, and they were all nearly exhausted. We pitched our tent early

in the afternoon at a good grazing-place, to give them a little rest.

Distance, 40 versts.

July 16th. The weather this day was warm and pleasant, and road not

so mountainous as it had been. At 5 P. M., one of our horses gave

out, and we left him. Continuing on until seven, we pitched our tent

on the banks of the White River. Distance, 50 versts.

July 17th. At 6 A. M. we mustered together our horses, and found that

four were missing. We spent half the day in a fruitless search for

them, and then concluded that they were either killed or frightened

away by the bears, which are very plentiful in this region. We

pursued our journey, much of the way through mud and water up to the

saddle-girths. Distance, 30 versts.

July 18th. Struck our tent at 7 A. M., and at nine crossed the White

River. All the early part of the day, until within twenty versts of

the Aldan, we found the road very good. Here we saw before us an

extensive morass, to avoid which it would be necessary to go the

distance of thirty versts. This morass was about a quarter of a mile

in breadth, and partially covered with water, interspersed with

little grass knolls, which were soft and unsteady. Disagreeable as

the prospect was, we concluded to go straight across. We accordingly

fastened on the baggage tighter, stripped off all our clothes but

shirt and pants, and secured them to the saddles, and started,

leading our horses, each one picking out the way for himself.

In about half an hour we succeeded in flouncing through without

accident; but it was a tiresome job, and we got well plastered with

mud. Putting ourselves and luggage in order, we proceeded until 10 P.

M., when we reached the government station on the right bank of the

Aldan, having left two of our horses on the road exhausted.

We had now reached the principal station on the route, which was

about two thirds the distance to Yakutsk; and I determined to halt

for a day or two to recruit, after passing fifteen in the saddle. At

first I was quite pleased with the idea of this land excursion, but

I found in a very little while that it was no joke. I was sore all

over, from head to foot. The clumsy saddles we rode were anything but

convenient. The pommels were of wood and raised about six inches, and

in the hollow between sat the rider. There was just space enough for

an ordinary-sized man; and being myself light and spare of person,

there was plenty of room for me to shake in my seat. I soon hit upon

an expedient, however, to alleviate my suffering. I bolstered up with

pillows, so that by the fourth day my pains and aches subsided, and

afterward I was tolerably comfortable. Still the incessant torments

of the mosquitos and miry roads were hard to bear. I soon grew sick

of this horse-marine navigation, and came to the conclusion that the

spray of the sea was far preferable to a mud bath. We made up as well

as we could for the annoyance of bad roads, bogs, and small rivers,

by taking reasonable care of the inner man. I mentioned before, that

we took our cooking apparatus and provisions with us. We had bread

and sugar, and the tea-kettle was in constant requisition morning

and evening. Sometimes at the shanties on the route we obtained a

little milk. At noon we generally had a substantial lunch of Bologna

sausage or corned meat, and a glass of schnapps.

Having rested and refreshed ourselves sufficiently, I made an

arrangement with the postilion of the station to take us through the

remainder of the distance, as from here to the banks of the Lena

there were relays of horses at points twenty-five or thirty versts

asunder.

July 21st. Being all ready for a move, our horses were gathered

together at the river’s side. There was only one small boat belonging

to the place, in which we made out to ferry ourselves and baggage

over; but the poor horses were obliged to swim. Such was their

dislike to the water, that we were detained half a day trying to

force them in. At last we succeeded, by taking two of them by the

halter, one on each side of the boat, and letting the others, five

in number, follow on their own hook. The current was so rapid that

they swam the distance of two versts, when the width of the stream

at this point was only one, before they reached the opposite shore.

They crawled up on the bank quite exhausted, and we were obliged to

remain awhile for them to recover. At 2 P. M. we mounted and pursued

our journey. At eight in the evening we pitched our tent at the first

post-station after leaving the Aldan. The distance travelled was 35

versts.

July 22d. Changed horses and started at 6 A. M. The travelling was

much improved, and at 5 P. M. we came to the second stand, on the

bank of the Anger, after a ride of 50 versts. We passed over this

river in the usual manner, and went on 25 versts more to the third

station, where we paused for the night, quite satisfied with our

day’s progress.

July 23d. At 9 A. M. started with fresh horses and continued on

our route. The travelling was still more improved, and the country

generally had a more agreeable appearance. The high mountains had

disappeared, and we rode over level prairies, beautifully diversified

with grasses and a great variety and profusion of flowers. Among the

latter the red pink predominated, the odor of which scented the whole

atmosphere, and made the journey delightful. At 1 P. M. we changed

our horses at the fourth station, and at six arrived at the fifth,

where we passed the night. Distance, 60 versts.

July 24th. We had pleasant weather, and at 7 A. M. started on our

route. At 8 P. M. we arrived at the seventh station, where we

encamped for the night, and paid the postilion 35 rubles for the use

of his horses, this being the last station to which he had authority

to take us. Distance, 60 versts.

July 25th. At 7 A. M. we resumed our journey under the charge of

another postilion. Our horses, since leaving the Aldan, had generally

been very good; but this morning I found myself on a splendid animal,

of a cream color, singularly and beautifully marked. A dark brown

stripe about a hand’s breadth ran from the crupper to the withers,

and then spread over the shoulders in a broad patch; his mane and

tail reached nearly to the ground. I could see that he was well

groomed and cared for, but I was rather shy about mounting him at

first. I was assured, however, that he was well broken and gentle,

and I found him so. He was certainly the most perfect creature of the

kind I ever rode or set eyes on. The plains over which we travelled

this day were dotted over with innumerable cattle and horses

grazing. At 9 P. M. we arrived at the tenth station and pitched our

tent. Distance, 75 versts.

July 26th. At 7 A. M. we continued on our route, and at 4 P. M.

reached the right bank of the river Lena, which I crossed, and was

kindly received and entertained at the Company’s establishment at

Yakutsk. This town, the capital of the province of the same name,

covers a large space of ground. The houses were mostly of logs, but

some were spacious and tolerably handsome, and surrounded with large

gardens. The churches and other public buildings, with their cupolas,

made quite a conspicuous and pleasing appearance as we approached

the place, but the streets were irregular, unpaved, and muddy. The

latitude of the town is 62°30′ N.

The breadth of the Lena at Yakutsk is about two miles. This

magnificent river takes its rise in the southern part of Siberia, in

lat. 52°. Its general course is northeast, and it empties into the

Arctic Ocean in lat. 75°. With its tributaries it forms the principal

channel for the discharge of the great water-sheds of the eastern

part of the empire, and the thoroughfare of communication with the

provinces of Ochotsk, Kamtchatka and the Aleutian Islands. Down this

stream vessels carried the various articles needed in those distant

regions, such as bread-stuffs, liquors, and manufactures, and brought

up in return the furs and other commodities which found a ready

market in China and Russia.

VIII.

Yakutsk.--Different Modes of Travelling.--Voyage up the Lena.--I

arrive at Irkutsk.

I determined to remain at Yakutsk a few days, to look around and

ascertain the best mode of proceeding up the river to Irkutsk. The

distance in a straight line was about 1500 miles, but by following

the stream it would be much increased. There were post-stations

the whole way, mostly on the left bank, and at intervals of twenty

or thirty versts. At these horses were kept by the government, and

one mode of making the proposed journey was in a small open boat,

which was towed by them after the manner of a canal-boat, except

that passengers changed boats at every station. Another mode, and

that which I decided to adopt, was to hire a larger craft, with mast

and sails, and perform the whole distance without changing; but I

was to have the privilege of receiving assistance from the horses

whenever necessary, and for this purpose I obtained an order from the

government called a _deroshner_ or _poderoshner_.

As soon as I had come to this conclusion, I commenced a search for

a suitable boat, and at the same time I took the opportunity to

look round the town. Accompanied by one of the gentlemen of the

establishment, who devoted himself to my service, I visited all

the public places, including the monastery, churches, and forts. I

also called on several families, and was introduced as an American

captain. Some of them were very inquisitive, and anxious to know

where America was. It was a mystery to them how I got there, if I did

not come by the way of St. Petersburg and Moscow. I explained as well

as I could without an interpreter, but after all they appeared to be

rather sceptical. The Commandant, a cheerful and clever old man, was

very kind and obliging, and we exchanged several visits. He asked for

information with regard to our government and constitution, which I

explained as well as I could; and as he understood no English and I

very little Russ, it is quite possible I was taken for a very knowing

chap. When I made a call at any one’s house, no matter what time of

day it was, if I stayed long enough for the tea-kettle to boil[35]

(which, by the way, was almost always kept boiling), I was asked to

take a cup of tea, and it was considered almost an insult to refuse.

The second cup was usually laced with a little ardent spirits. This

tea-drinking I found to be the universal custom in Siberia.

The sables collected in the vicinity of Yakutsk are the finest and

most beautiful in the world, and command a much higher price than

those from Kamtchatka. As I had already collected a few skins as

specimens, in my travels, I requested the Superintendent of the

Company’s establishment to supply me with a pair of the very best

this district produced, and he kindly complied. They were certainly

of great beauty, very dark-colored and shiny, with very long and

thick-set fur.

I found a boat in a few days, belonging to a couple of itinerant

merchants, who had come down in her from the head-waters of the

river, which I thought would answer my purpose. It was quite a nice

boat, of about twenty feet in length; a little aft the centre there

was a small round-house, with a sleeping-berth on each side. It had a

keel, but was of light draft. The mast carried one large square sail;

and we could row with two oars forward and two aft. I chartered the

boat for the passage, and was to deliver it up to the merchants,

or their agent, when we had arrived at head-waters. One man who

came down in it was to return with me, on condition he worked his

passage; and I found that the owners themselves desired to accompany

us to their home. I had no serious objection to this, provided they

supplied their own provisions; and, in fact, I thought it might be

rather an advantage, as they were acquainted with the river. I gave

them to understand at the outset, however, that the cabin must be at

my exclusive disposal, and to this they readily agreed. I accordingly

sent on board my goods and chattels, cooking utensils, and

provisions. The Commandant, at my request, very obligingly appointed

a Cossack to go with me, and a smart, energetic little fellow he was.

Having made everything ready, I took leave of my friends in Yakutsk,

and assumed the command of my little craft, on the morning of the

30th of July, and thus commenced what was to me an entirely new phase

of navigation. The wind being adverse, I had the horses hitched on,

and away we went. My crew consisted of my man Parker, Kutsnetsoff,

the Cossack, the man who worked his passage, and together with the

two merchants and myself made seven of us in all. My weapons of

defence (of which, by the way, there did not seem to be much need)

consisted of a pair of double-barrelled pistols with spring bayonets,

and a large broadsword, with a conspicuous gilt hilt finished off

with an eagle’s head. These implements looked dreadfully formidable

and warlike, and I deposited them in a convenient place in my cabin.

I assigned to Parker, Kutsnetsoff, and the Cossack the berth which

I did not use, and they were to turn in and out by watches. The two

merchants and the other man were to select the best places to sleep

they could find elsewhere. With matters arranged in this way, we went

on in good style, the horses going most of the time at a gentle trot.

In the course of the day we passed two post-stations.

On the morning of the second day, having accomplished about 150

versts of my journey, I stopped at a post-station, where the official

appeared to be a much more wide-awake man than any we had passed.

I sent my _deroshner_ to be written on, and my Cossack ordered the

horses to be attached. This order not being obeyed at once, I saw

there was some difficulty, and sent Kutsnetsoff to see what was the

matter. On returning, he asked me to go into the office myself. So,

hauling up the collar of my shirt, and, assuming such an air of

importance as I thought the case might require, I went and demanded

the cause of my detention. “The horses are all ready for you, Sir,”

said the postilion, “but those two merchants cannot go in that

boat. The government don’t keep horses to accommodate travelling

traders. If they want horses, they must pay for them.” There was no

alternative, but that the fellows should leave the boat; and, to

my surprise, they did it without a word of objection. Perhaps they

were conscious that they had taken advantage of my ignorance to get

a passage home free of charge. I was not sorry for their removal,

although they appeared to be good men; for one of them was a constant

singer of love-songs which were all High Dutch to me, and from

his proximity to my quarters his well-intended music became very

annoying. This difficulty removed, we proceeded again, under three

horse-power. By the time we reached the next station, the wind became

favorable, we hoisted our sail to the breeze, and cast off from the

horses. By keeping near the shore, out of the main current, we made

better progress in this way than we had done previously, and passed

several stations without stopping. And so we went on by sail or by

horse-power, according as the winds were favorable or adverse.

August 6th, we reached Olakminsk, which is about 600 versts from

Yakutsk. By this time I began to think the mode of travelling I had

chosen very pleasant. The season was delightful, and the scenery as

we passed along was diversified with objects of sublimity and beauty.

At times we were moving through level country, and at times among

high mountains; in some places the river was contracted to a narrow

span by precipitous ranges of cliffs, and again its broad expanse

embraced many islands. To relieve the monotony of the confinement on

board my boat, I occasionally rode on horseback from one station to

another, and found the change very agreeable. The country in some

places was thick-wooded, chiefly with fir and birch; in others, it

was clothed with shrubbery, and I noticed currant and gooseberry

bushes, and frequently alighted to refresh myself with the fruit.

We passed a number of small clusters of shanties, inhabited by

Tunguscans, in the vicinity of which herds of cattle were grazing.

Near the houses were domestic reindeer of a large size. The children

were playing about in little groups, and the older ones were amusing

the younger by holding them on the backs of the deer, and teaching

them to ride,--making quite a rural and domestic scene.

We had at no time on our route any lack of good milk, and once we had

about a gallon of rich cream given us. The idea struck me that it

might be converted into butter; I therefore had it put into a large

pot, and with a kind of pudding-stick sat down at my cabin door, and

as we were moving along began to stir it. In the course of half an

hour I produced a lump of butter that would have put to shame seven

eighths of the dairy-maids in this country.

I had long since noticed the great deference shown to the military

in these parts, but I saw it particularly illustrated by my Cossack,

in exerting his authority among the people at a post-station. He was

scolding them for their laziness in hitching on the horses, and I

could hear that he was making a very great lion of me. “Start quick,

you rascals,” said he, “we have got a great American captain in the

boat, going on government business!” And this seemed to accelerate

everything, even the horses, for they travelled better after it.

On the 15th, we passed Witim, which is about 1,400 versts from

Yakutsk. Here the favorable winds, of which we had availed

ourselves for several days past, left us, and we took, as usual, to

horse-power. A short time after, we came to a station of some ten or

twelve houses, where the inhabitants were in great perturbation on

account of the small-pox, which was raging among them. Some had fled

from the place, and others would have gone had they not been detained

by their families. The disease existed among them in all its stages,

from the symptoms to the full pox. I had had considerable experience

with it, and thought I might mitigate the suffering by inoculation.

They were all desirous that I should do so, and gathered anxiously

around me. I called for a needle and thread, and selecting one of the

subjects whose pox was ripe, drew the thread through the pustules

until it was saturated with matter. Then preparing the maggot (as I

believe it is called), by cutting the thread into very short pieces,

with my penknife I made a little incision in the upper arm, placed

in it one of the maggots and bound it there. I went through this

process on seven or eight, and instructed them how to perform it;

and as to their diet, to eat no fat or salt meat, but to confine

themselves to bread and milk. They were very grateful for the advice,

and for what I had done for them, and were desirous of manifesting

their gratitude in some more substantial form, but it was declined.

After passing through an extensive grazing country, interspersed with

large fields of grain, about 300 versts from Witim we came to rapids,

with high precipitous banks on either side, where the velocity of the

current was so great that we were obliged to hug the shore to avoid

it. In some parts of it we could only get along by sending a small

boat ahead to carry a line to warp by. This was a slow and laborious

operation, and we were heartily rejoiced when we were through with

it. The rapids once passed, the scenery became as interesting as it

had been before, and the country, if anything, rather more populous

and thriving. We saw, beside farming and grazing, a number of men

engaged in fisheries along the banks of the stream. I could not see

but that there was as great a degree of happiness here as in any

other part of the world. The wants of the people were abundantly

provided for by the produce of the soil and the river, and beyond

this they seemed to have no desire.

After passing through some more rapids, where we were again obliged

to cast off our horses and warp the boat, on the 19th we reached

Kirinsk, which is about 1,650 versts from Yakutsk. From here we went

on quickly, owing to the good path for the horses on the shore,

and on the 26th reached Wercholinsk. This was a considerable town,

situated on the right bank of the Lena; but we pushed by it without

stopping. We now began to be troubled with the shallowness of the

water, but we made out with difficulty to reach Katschuk, beyond

which there was hardly enough to float a canoe, and we concluded

we had reached the head of navigation. According to agreement I

delivered up my boat here, and took a post-carriage for Irkutsk,

where I arrived on the afternoon of the 28th of August, 1807, and

drove into the court square of the Company’s establishment.

IX.

Irkutsk.--Journey to Tomsk.--New Travelling

Companion.--Tobolsk.--Russian Leave-taking.

I presented my letters of introduction from the Chamberlain, Baron

von Resanoff, and was kindly welcomed by the Superintendent. He

invited me to make his house my home while I remained in the place.

I replied that my stay must be short, and begged him to assist me in

procuring a convenient vehicle for my journey, so that I might not be

obliged to change at every station, as I should if I went in a public

conveyance.

I discharged my Cossack when I gave up my boat, and made him a

present of fifty rubles, all my cooking utensils, provisions, and

some other articles. He took his leave, with many thanks and good

wishes, which I cordially returned. I had brought Kutsnetsoff home

to his native town, from which he had been absent ten years. He

started off immediately to find his mother. The next morning he

made his appearance at my room, leading her in. She was a very

dignified-looking elderly lady, dressed in black. As he introduced

her to me, she dropped upon her knees, and, while the tears from an

overflowing and grateful heart were coursing down her cheeks, poured

out her thanks for the interest I had taken in the return of her

son. It touched me so deeply, that I could scarcely refrain from

tears myself. It carried my thoughts home to my poor mother, and I

raised her up, and assured her that, if I had done her son a favor,

or brought comfort and consolation to her, I was amply compensated

by the pleasure and satisfaction the deed itself afforded me.

Kutsnetsoff had previously observed that he should like to go on with

me to Moscow to see his brother, if his mother were willing. When

it was suggested to her, she readily gave her consent, being also

desirous that he should see his brother.

While we were talking about the matter, who should drive into the

court square but Dr. Langsdorff. I was rejoiced to see him, but could

not account for his being so close upon my heels. It appeared that

he had arrived at Yakutsk shortly after my departure, and, making

but a short stay, had been pushing on in the small boats, hoping to

overtake and surprise me on the river. He had gained two days on me,

but encountered all kinds of troubles and vexations, such as leaky

boats, drunken boatmen, an inefficient Cossack guide, the upsetting

of the boat, and loss of papers. He was quite chagrined when I

told him that I, by taking a larger craft under my own control,

had avoided all these difficulties, and had made quite a pleasant

excursion of it.

The Doctor having decided to make a longer stay than I desired to,

that he might visit Kiakta, across the Lake Baikal, I purchased a

vehicle which I thought would answer my purpose. It was called a

_pervoshka_, and was nothing more than a box rounded at the bottom,

and fixed firmly to the axletree without springs. A covered top

reached from the back part nearly to the middle, resembling the top

of a cradle. The forward part of the box was covered far enough

to make a seat for the driver, from which a boot extended to the

cradle-top. On the bottom of this outlandish concern I must either

lie or sit upright throughout my whole journey. I therefore procured

a good substantial feather-bed and put it in, with which and two or

three well-stuffed pillows, my luggage, and other wadding, I thought

I might get along without much chafing. As this carriage was only

calculated for one person, I took a post-carriage of much the same

construction for Parker and Kutsnetsoff.

Being now all ready for the road, I decided to stay a day or two, and

look round the place with my friend the Doctor. I shall not attempt

a description of this large, and I might say handsome town. It is

the modern capital of Siberia, and is situated on the banks of the

beautiful river Angara, which is one of the largest tributaries of

the Yenisei. It was in that day, and I suppose still is, the great

commercial emporium of the eastern part of the empire, whence the

more distant provinces are supplied, and whither are brought the furs

and the products of the fisheries from Kamtchatka, Ochotsk, and the

Aleutian Islands; and through the frontier town of Kiakta, across

Lake Baikal, the teas, nankins, silks, and other articles which are

obtained from the Chinese in exchange for the sea-otter and sable

skins, and find such a ready market in Russia.

Having a journey before me of 3,500 miles, and desirous of reaching

St. Petersburg before the close of navigation in the autumn, I was

prepared to travel day and night, and of course passed many towns and

villages without noticing them, only making short halts for a day or

two at some of the larger or shire-towns to rest. I was provided

with a new _deroshner_, and a good supply of copper money to pay for

fresh post-horses. On the 31st of August, having hitched the horses

to our vehicles,--that is, one in the shafts of each, and one on

each side,--and having again taken leave of Doctor Langsdorff and

the Company’s Superintendent, the Yemshik, as the driver is called,

mounted his box, cracked his whip, and away we went, leaving the

capital of Siberia behind us. The post-stations were about 25 versts,

or 15 miles, asunder, and we were well attended at them. If we

desired it, we could obtain something to eat, and I generally availed

myself of the opportunity twice a day, taking a substantial meal,

and topping off with a cup of tea, preparatory for which we almost

always found the kettle boiling. The Yemshik’s signal for starting

was the crack of his whip, and at that the horses would bound off

at full speed, and he would begin to sing. The song, as well as the

speed, was generally kept up from one station to another. The music

was sometimes quite pleasant and cheering; the horses, at any rate,

seemed to know that it meant “Go ahead.”

In this way we continued night and day. On the 6th of September we

passed through Krasnojarsk, where the Chamberlain Baron von Resanoff

had died. We continued on without stopping, and on the 7th reached

the town of Poim, where I halted a couple of hours to deliver a

letter from the young man Chlabnekoff, whom I took as a passenger

from Kamtchatka to Ochotsk, to his brother. He called on me, and

insisted on my going to his house, if it was only for an hour. His

family wanted to see me. I took Kutsnetsoff with me, and we gave them

all the information we could about their brother. We found a splendid

collation prepared for us, with Madeira wine such as we do not have

in these days. After concluding the entertainment with a bottle of

champagne, we started off; and whatever the facts may have been,

we certainly felt much lighter than before. I merely mention this

circumstance to show that there was no lack of “the good stuff” in

Siberia. The Maine Law was not enforced there half a century ago.

On the 10th I reached the shire-town of Tomsk, and was constrained

to acknowledge myself pretty well used up. I can assure those who

have not made a trial of this mode of travelling, that to lay on

one’s back in a carriage without any springs, for eight days and

nights in succession, is no joke. When I alighted occasionally my

whole frame was in a perfect tremor, yet the roads were not stony,

but tolerably good. There was no regular hotel in the town, and so

after a little inquiry we drove up to a large log-house, with a

square enclosure in front, the owner of which was kind enough to

entertain us. I immediately set Kutsnetsoff upon the lookout for a

more easy and convenient carriage, and told him if he should find one

to endeavor to dispose of my old one in part pay. In the mean time,

having a letter from my friend Lieutenant Schwostoff to his uncle,

who was Governor of the place, I waited on him. I was very cordially

received, and invited to dine the next day.

In a short time Kutsnetsoff succeeded in finding a vehicle much

better than the old one. It was quite a stylish affair, on springs,

and two persons could ride in it conveniently; but I had to pay

as much to boot, perhaps, as both carriages were worth. I called

upon the Company’s agent to furnish me with 200 rubles, but he had

received no particular instructions to advance me money, and was

reluctant to do it. He was quite reasonable, however, and was willing

to listen to my story. While I was explaining to him who I was, and

why I wanted money, there were several persons standing by. Among

them was a good-looking, well-dressed man, who spoke up and said he

would let me have as large a sum as I wanted, at which the agent

said he was willing to supply me. After I had finished my business

the gentleman who made the kind offer of his purse informed me that

he himself was going to Moscow, and, if I had no objections, would

like to take a seat in my carriage, and share the expense. I hardly

knew what to answer, and I scrutinized him very closely. His face

wore an honest look, and he had about his person two conspicuous

orders of merit; so I concluded to accept his proposition. I found

no reason afterwards to regret it. He was a Greek by birth, and a

merchant of high standing. His name was Dementy Simonitch, and he had

done several meritorious acts, for which he received medals from the

Emperor Alexander, and likewise a present from him of a splendid gold

watch and chain.

Having arranged this matter, I repaired to the Governor’s to dine

and take leave of him. I found a great many gentlemen there, but not

one who spoke English, so that I was almost a dummy amongst them. I

understood enough Russ, however, to learn that they were desirous

of inquiring into the nature and organization of our government.

I explained all the prominent points as well as I could, and they

appeared to understand, for they praised our institutions highly. If

I was able, under the circumstances, to form a correct opinion, there

was a good deal of the spirit of reform among them. After taking

leave of the Governor, I commenced preparations to start the next

morning. As I saw but little of the town, I can say but little or

nothing of it. It was quite a large place, the houses nearly all of

wood, and the streets broad and in some places planked in the centre

for the convenience of foot-travel, and yet in others so muddy that

there was no comfort in moving round out of a carriage.

On the 12th of September I started with my new companion, and went on

at the same breakneck pace as before. My new coach was far superior

to the old one. We could sit up or lie down as we chose, and were

not annoyed by the intolerable jarring of the body. My companion was

very agreeable, and although he could not speak a word of English,

and my vocabulary of Russ was too limited to hold a continued,

intelligible conversation, we soon became accustomed to each other’s

pantomimic gestures, and got along quite understandingly. On the 19th

we arrived, without any casualties worthy of remark, at Tobolsk, the

ancient capital of Siberia, and put up, as usual, at a private house.

Here my carriage-mate, Dementy, had acquaintances. He introduced

me to the family of Mr. Zelinzoff, or Green, a highly respectable

and wealthy merchant, and the proprietor of large iron-works at

Ekatereinburg. He was himself absent from home, but, together with

Dementy, I was invited by his son, who officiated as major-domo, to

dine with his family while I remained in the city. I take pleasure in

particularizing in regard to this family, on account of their marked

civility and kindness to a stranger. It consisted of Madam Zelinzoff,

three sons, a daughter, and a young man named Duro, who was a teacher

of French, and spoke English fluently. They lived in splendid style,

and spread a table for fifteen or twenty persons every day. Among the

numerous invited guests was a French military officer in the Russian

service, who spoke English well, and with whom I had a good deal of

chat. After dinner the ladies and gentlemen retired to a large hall,

where there was a billiard-table and a piano, violins and flutes,

on which the amateurs displayed their skill. This was the agreeable

practice daily while I was there.

Perhaps I may be allowed here to make a few remarks in regard to the

city of Tobolsk, though I cannot give a minute description of it. It

is very singularly divided into the upper and lower town. The lower

town seems to have been once the bed of the river Irtich, which now,

uniting with the Tobol, runs through the western part of the valley,

leaving both the upper and lower town on the eastern side, but

divided distinctly by a steep bank, which was probably in former days

the margin of the stream. The lower town is sometimes, though rarely,

inundated; and on the other hand the upper town is inconvenienced

by a want of water. Taking both sections together they formed a

very large place, with a numerous and mixed population of Tartars,

Bucharians, and Kalmucks. The public buildings were mostly of stone,

but the private houses, with few exceptions, of wood. It was the

great mart of trade with the eastern part of the Empire, and all the

caravans from China and the distant provinces concentrated here.

This place had formerly been the Botany Bay, or penal settlement,

of the Russians, and from the descendants of convicts a great and

flourishing city had sprung up, with its wealthy merchants, thrifty

traders, and literary and scientific men. The German and French

languages were taught and spoken by all the better classes. All kinds

of provisions were so cheap, that the poorest inhabitant never need

suffer for food; and I could see here, as throughout Siberia, the

kindliest feelings manifested toward the lower orders of society.

Having remained at Tobolsk six days, we prepared to continue our

journey. Two of the young Mr. Zelinzoffs were to accompany us as

far as their father’s estate, at Ekatereinburg. Accordingly, after

dining and making some preliminary arrangements for departure, the

whole family, with their guests, assembled in the large room for a

little chat and to take leave. Now this leave-taking was a somewhat

formal piece of business, and I had misgivings as to how I should

acquit myself with becoming gallantry. The custom with the gentlemen

was for each to lay the right hand on the other’s back, and to kiss

each other on both cheeks;[36] not unfrequently the noses came in

rude collision. A lady presents you the back of the hand to kiss, and

at the same time she kisses you on the cheek. Being all ready for

action, the ladies and gentlemen placed themselves in a row round

the room, and then the performance was commenced by the two sons

who were going with us, and continued by my friend Dementy. By this

time the perspiration had begun to start upon my forehead; but I saw

it was of no use to be lagging, and so, summoning all my courage, I

turned to, and went through the ceremony like a veteran courtier. The

last of the ladies I came to was the daughter, a great beauty, and I

was greatly tempted, in violation of Russian etiquette, to kiss her

cheek, but I managed to restrain myself.

X.

Flying Ferry-Boat.--Ekatereinburg.--Kazan.--A

Dinner-Party.--Moscow.--St. Petersburg.--Good News.

After the ceremony described in the last chapter, we took to our

carriages and proceeded to the ferry which crosses the Irtich, where

we found what was called a flying ferry-boat, of sufficient size to

transport several teams at once.[37] The hull of the craft did not

swim deep in the water, but was furnished with a very deep keel along

its whole length. It had a short mast, placed about as far forward

as in sloops, and supported by shrouds. Now an anchor was sunk in

the centre of the river some distance above, and from the anchor a

rope, sustained on the surface by buoys, was extended and fastened to

the bow of the boat. By means of a block and pulley this rope could

be elevated about half the distance to the mast-head. When ready

for starting, the bow, which was always pointed directly up stream

at the landing-place, was pushed off a little, so that the current

might strike the keel at an angle. This position was maintained by

the use of the rudder; and as the boat could not drift down the

river, on account of the anchor to which it was attached, it was

driven sideways to the opposite shore. By this ingenious contrivance

passengers and freight were carried across without the least trouble

or labor.

On the 24th we arrived at Ekatereinburg. During our stay here of

one night, our young friends showed us about the iron-works, and

we saw all the operations, from smelting the ore to working it up

into bar-iron. Gold ore was dug here by the government, and the

pure metal extracted by pulverizing, and washing it on an inclined

plane covered with ridges, which stopped the gold, while the lighter

substances were carried off with the water. It did not appear to be

a very money-making process. The next day we took leave of our young

friends, and pursued our journey westward to Kazan, on the river

Volga, which we reached on the 30th. Here my carriage-mate, Dementy,

was quite at home again, and we concluded to halt for a couple of

days. The city was large and well built, and the most important place

in the eastern part of Russia proper.

I had for some time experienced the good effects of Dementy’s badge

of distinction, but it did us especial service here. It procured us

an invitation to dine with the military Governor, who was himself

of Greek extraction, and somewhat acquainted with my friend. I had

no great desire to go among great folks, as my wardrobe was scanty,

and the few clothes I possessed had grown pretty threadbare with the

wear and tear of my three years’ cruise. I wished to decline, but

Dementy said it would give offence. He had probably given an account

of my adventures, and of my negotiation with the Chamberlain, Baron

von Resanoff; and this, together with the mark of the Emperor’s

approbation which he himself wore, had brought us into notice.

At the proper time the military carriage of the Governor came for us,

and away we went in fine style. We found a great number of persons

assembled at his house, including officers, military and civil, and

many ladies. I was introduced as an American captain. I felt a little

uncomfortable lest I should be questioned with regard to my official

grade, as it might not have been good policy to have explained my

claim to a captaincy. It was a splendid entertainment, however,

and, as I could not converse very intelligibly, I had little else

to do than ply the knife and fork, while Dementy, who had somehow

picked up all the particulars about me and my business, gave them

my whole story, much to my satisfaction. After dinner we retired to

another room, where coffee was served. The ladies questioned me about

our country, and to show that they had some knowledge of American

history, they spoke of Washington and Franklin in high terms. We

conversed upon the subject until I had exhausted my whole stock of

Russ in eulogizing those men.

October 2d, we started on our route for Moscow, our next

stopping-place. We met with nothing remarkable excepting muddy

roads and frequent altercations at the post-stations. There was

evidently less respect paid to my friend’s decorations, and less

alacrity in attending to us. We, however, reached the great city

of Moscow on the 8th, and passed within the first circle, which is

called the Zemlänoigorod. We wound along through the streets, as

it seemed to me, for miles. At last Dementy pointed out a public

house, where we stopped awhile to brush up and make ourselves look

respectable,--after which Dementy left us. Kutsnetsoff sought at once

the whereabouts of the Company’s establishment, and we started again,

passed through the Bale gate into the circle of that name, and drove

to the Company’s house. I entered the spacious stone building with

Kutsnetsoff, and met his brother, the Superintendent, on the great

landing-stair. He was a splendid-looking man. After the brothers

had embraced each other, and while tears were rolling down their

cheeks, I was introduced. I was cordially welcomed, and led into a

large hall, where I was presented to the Superintendent’s lady, and

Kutsnetsoff to a sister he had never seen before. She was a very

handsome woman, and richly dressed in the latest French style.

After exchanging mutual inquiries, I was told by the Superintendent

that his house must be my home while I remained in the city. I

replied that I was desirous of reaching St. Petersburg before the

close of navigation, and consequently my stay must be short. They

concluded that I could well spare a week. In that time I thought I

could replenish my wardrobe with the latest European fashions, and at

my request, a draper was sent for; he took my dimensions, and I was

soon fitted out completely. My Kamtchatka sable-skins were converted

into a lining for a great coat,--as something of that kind had now

become necessary,--and they made a splendid article.

In the mean time, having leisure, I availed myself of the politeness

of a young gentleman of the house, who offered to go round with me

and show me the city. I made no note of what I saw at the time,

and since then half a century has rolled by. I can only recall

some of the leading features of the great metropolis, which may be

interesting, as the date of my visit was but a few years before the

conflagration which drove Napoleon from the country. The city is

situated on an elevation which in shape resembles a turtle’s back.

The river Moskva sweeps round nearly two thirds of it, and the land

rises gently from the margin to the centre, which is so high as to

command a splendid panoramic view of its whole extent. The city was

divided into four departments or circles. The first, the Kremlin,

situated on the crown of this eminence and enclosed with heavy

ramparts of stone, formed a sort of fortress of very ample extent. It

embraced within its walls magnificent cathedrals, palaces, and public

buildings, all gorgeously decorated. Here also was the great bell,

which stands on the ground, with a triangular piece broken out of

the rim. Its weight is said to be four hundred thousand pounds.[38]

The next circle was the Kitaigorod, or Chinese Town, also containing

several cathedrals, convents, parish churches, and many noblemen’s

houses, interspersed with mean-looking wooden buildings. The third

circle, which surrounded the former, was the Beloigorod, or White

Town, and had a white wall. This was the business part of the city,

and the streets, though mostly paved, were muddy and filthy. There

were here, however, many public edifices, and handsome private

houses, the residences of the merchants and traders. The fourth

circle, called Zemlänoigorod, or Land Town, was surrounded with an

earthen embankment, and enclosed an area of nearly ten miles. In

this as in the other circles, there was a great diversity in the

cost of the different structures, the very extremes of magnificence

and meanness being mingled together promiscuously. I was very much

impressed with the grandeur and beauty of the whole city; spread over

more than twenty square miles of ground, adorned with a countless

number of costly and elegant buildings, with thousands of spires and

cupolas covered with silver and gold, when viewed from the Kremlin it

afforded one of the most pleasing spectacles I ever gazed upon.[39]

I was loath to leave when the time allotted for my stay had expired,

but there was no help for it. So, equipped in the fashionable rig

with which the draper furnished me, I turned my face toward St.

Petersburg. The Superintendent was kind enough to propose that

Kutsnetsoff should accompany me to my journey’s end, which proposal

I gladly accepted. On the morning of the 17th, I took leave of the

good friends who had shown me so much kindness, and stepped into my

carriage, rode through the suburbs, and at noon emerged into the open

country. We passed many villages and large towns, but continued on

without stopping at any of them except to take our meals.

On the 21st of October, 1807, we reached the gates of St. Petersburg,

and, after going through a thorough examination of passports, were

permitted to go on. We drove at once to the Company’s establishment,

where I was kindly received and entertained by Mr. Booldakoff, the

first director of the Russian American Company. It was evening when I

arrived, and as neither Mr. B. nor any one in the house could speak

English, I remained partially ignorant of the business which most

interested me until the next morning. A gentleman then came in who

accosted me in good round English, and I was quite overjoyed at the

sound. This was Mr. Benedict Cramer, a gentleman with whom I became

very intimate in business afterwards. He was the senior partner of

the house of Cramer, Smith, & Co., and was also one of the directors

of the Company.

He soon threw light upon my whole business by saying that his

partner, Mr. Smith, was in the United States, and had seen my

owners and assured them that the bills of exchange, the duplicates

of which had reached them through the hands of Mr. Moorfield, were

good. Mr. Moorfield had been out with a ship in the course of the

season, the bills had been accepted and paid with fifteen per cent

advance, because Spanish dollars, in which they were payable,

commanded that premium. The proceeds had been invested in hemp,

iron, and manufactures and sent to America; and the business had

been transacted through his house. “You have now nothing to do,” he

concluded, “but to take all the pleasure you can while you remain

with us.” I shook him heartily by the hand, and made him a low

bow; after which we walked out together to his place of business.

He introduced me to his brother and Mr. L. Harris, the American

Consul, who was connected with his firm; and in the same way I became

acquainted with a number of influential gentlemen, from whom I

received many civilities.

Mr. Booldakoff, whose house I made my home, showed me every

attention. He took me in his carriage to all the places of note in

the city, and had an audience with the Count Ramansoff, the Prime

Minister, to whom I was presented. In short, every mark of respect

that could be accorded to a stranger was shown me.

XI.

I sail down the Baltic in a Dutch Galiot.--Take Passage at

Elsinore in the Mary for Portland.--Put in at Liverpool.--Home

again.--Conclusion.

Things went on so smoothly and pleasantly at St. Petersburg that

I took no note of time. Six days had already slipped by before I

began to think of making a further move. There were no American

ships at Cronstadt when I arrived, but I was told that there were

always opportunities till the last of November to obtain a passage to

England, so that I felt quite easy. Just as I commenced preparations

for starting, however, war was declared between Russia and England,

and all foreign ships left Cronstadt. I now thought it doubtful

whether I could obtain a passage to England, but I made all haste

for the port, to make a trial, at least. Mr. Booldakoff gave me a

letter to the harbor-master, the Consul one to his Vice, the Messrs.

Cramer one to Messrs. Belfour, Ellah, & Co., at Elsinore. With these

I took leave of my St. Petersburg friends, and started; but when I

arrived at the Mole I was quite discouraged to find that there was

not a merchant-vessel in sight. I called on the Vice-Consul, but he

knew of no way to help me. Though thinking it would be useless, I

determined to present my letter to the harbor-master. He read it,

and after a little reflection, and a number of questions about my

journey, said that I had better go down to the Mole head with him,

and see what could be done.

We found, on inquiry, that there was one solitary vessel, a small

galiot, lying at anchor below the Tolbeacon, about three miles off.

She was bound for London, and he thought I could get a passage in

her, if I were willing to try; at the same time he offered to send

me aboard. I jumped at the proposition, and told Parker to get our

goods and chattels into the boat as soon as possible. Thanking the

harbor-master for his assistance, I started off for the galiot.

She was a small craft, of seventy or eighty tons burden, loaded

with tallow. The skipper was a little old Dutchman, short of five

feet in height, and a mate and cook composed his crew. I asked him

if he would take me as passenger to London. “Yaw,” says he. “And

will you let my man work his passage?” “Yaw, goot,” says he. I paid

the officer of the boat for his trouble, and he left us. Being now

at leisure, I began to look round to see what kind of a ship and

accommodations we had got. She was rather a flat-bottomed vessel,

carrying lee-boards, to keep her from drifting to the leeward when

sailing by the wind. I questioned the skipper about the provisions,

and he believed that there were enough, such as they were. The cabin

was a trunk, so called, above the deck, abaft the mainmast, in which

there were two boxes with slide-doors. One was his berth, and the

other the mate’s. He informed me that I must sleep with him, and

my man must turn in and out with the mate. I thought this a fair

arrangement, and so we settled it.

It was morning when I went on board; and after dinner, which

consisted of beans and buckwheat pudding, we got under way. The

wind was light but favorable, so that we crept along down the Gulf

at about the same rate we used to go in our little Russian vessel.

The weather was moderate and the sea smooth, and after so much

land-travel I enjoyed the change very much. We continued to grope

along until we reached the island of Bornholm, in the Baltic. Here we

took a westerly gale, which would have put a stop to our progress if

we had not fortunately got under the lee of the island, and continued

sailing from one end to the other of it for two days, when the gale

abated, and the wind changed. This enabled us to continue on our

course, so that on the 13th of November we reached Elsinore. Here I

presented my letters from the Messrs. Cramer, and was kindly received

by Messrs. Belfour, Ellah, & Co.

Though the galiot was detained by contrary winds, as long as there

was no alternative, I concluded to stick by her; but on the second

day I was standing on the pier and looking up the sound towards

Copenhagen, when I saw a ship coming down with a large American

ensign flying, at the sight of which my heart leaped right up into

my throat. I waited until she came to anchor, and then called a

shore-boat and went off to her. She proved to be the Mary of

Portland, Captain David Gray, and was homeward bound. This was

joyful news, and affected me so deeply that I could hardly tell the

Captain my story. At last, after making known who I was, and from

whence I came, I asked him if he would take me as passenger, and he

readily consented. I went immediately to the galiot to settle with

the little Dutch skipper. To the question, how much was I to pay him,

he answered that he only wanted “Was billig ist, das ist mir recht.”

Not knowing exactly what that was, I tendered him twenty Spanish

dollars, with which he was well satisfied, and made him a bonus of

a pair of leather breeches, which he had worn ever since we left

Cronstadt. Wishing him a prosperous voyage, I took my leave and my

baggage and went on board the Mary. She was a fine ship, in ballast,

and had a splendid cabin for the times. The captain was a social,

clever fellow, and we soon became well acquainted. We left Elsinore

on the 20th, and proceeded down the Kattegat. When we got down as

far as Gottenburg, we found the wind blowing in heavily through the

Sleeve, which obliged the pilot to put into Marstrand, a small port

in Sweden. Here we lay two days.

On the 24th, we put to sea again. We passed the Naze of Norway, and

steered for the Orkney Islands; but, owing to adverse winds and

stormy weather, it was the 2d of December before we got through the

Fair Isle Passage. We then encountered a series of westerly gales,

in the course of which it was discovered that one of the ship’s

rudder-braces had worked loose. It was deemed unsafe to pursue our

course across the Atlantic, and Captain Gray accordingly altered

his course for Liverpool, where we arrived on the 15th. This was a

great disappointment to me, particularly as my pecuniary resources

were exhausted, and I saw before me unavoidable expenses; at the

same time, I had no relish for the storms of a northern passage and

a winter’s coast. I reconciled myself, however, with the prospect of

seeing England; and as Captain Gray offered to supply me with money

until I reached Portland, I was quite content. I went with him to

a boarding-house, where we remained while the ship was undergoing

repairs. In the mean time, I made myself acquainted with the city and

its environs. At the end of two months the Mary was ready for sea

again, and having taken on board a quantity of salt, we sailed on the

7th of February. We had a pleasant voyage, and arrived at Portland

on the 25th of March. Here I settled with the Captain, to whom I was

indebted for my passage, board, and sundry loans, the whole amounting

to the sum of two hundred and fifty dollars. I gave him a draft on

Mr. John Park, of Boston, and it proved quite fortunate for him that

I did so. His owners had failed just before our arrival, and, as they

were indebted to him, he would have been a loser but for this draft.

You may suppose that I started with as little delay as possible

for Bristol. I arrived there on the 1st of April, 1808, and thus

terminated an absence of three years and eight months. In two years

and six months from the time of my departure, the owners were in

receipt of the proceeds of the voyage, which resulted in a clear

profit of ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND DOLLARS.

* * * * *

I have now reached the end of my story; but before I lay down my pen,

let me say a word more of the friends mentioned in the preceding

pages. I continued in the Russian trade, in which I had made so

successful a beginning, and returned to St. Petersburg in 1809. It

so happened that I found Dr. Langsdorff and Lieutenants Schwostoff

and Davidoff there. The latter two gentlemen, since we last met,

had been engaged in the war with Sweden, and had become honorably

distinguished. While I was visiting the Doctor, they came over to

pass an evening with us, and we sat talking of old times until two

in the morning. They then started for their own lodgings, which were

on the other side of the river. Langsdorff and myself accompanied

them to the drawbridge, which was open for ships to pass in the

night. Our friends, therefore, passed over a plank which lay from the

bridge to a vessel in the river and regained the other side of the

bridge by another plank, calling to us and wishing us good-night,

when they were safe over, and we then went back to our quarters.

The next morning we received the melancholy intelligence that two

naval officers had been drowned in the Neva during the night, and,

upon further inquiry, we learned that they were our friends. After

we had parted from them, they became desirous, God knows for what

purpose, to return to us again, and, in order to get over quicker,

they attempted to spring from the bridge upon a bark that was going

through. They mistook a sail for the deck of the vessel, and both

fell into the water. The people in the bark endeavored to rescue

them, but the night was so dark, and the current so strong, that they

went under before they received any assistance. Though fifty years

have gone by since the death of these young men, I cannot forbear to

recall their many virtues and lament their untimely end.

FOOTNOTES:

[23] Perry’s “History of the De Wolf Family,” p. 50.

[24] Three months before this vessel had brought into Bristol the

first cargo received from a Chinese port.--_Ed._

[25] Ever since Captain Robert Gray of Tiverton, R. I., master of

the ship Columbia of Boston, had, in 1792, sailed his vessel into

the great river to which he gave the name of his ship, the trade of

the northwest coast had been almost entirely in the hands of Boston

merchants. The natives called all traders “Boston Men.” So, in the

days of the Crusades, the Saracens called all Crusaders “Franks”

because of the overwhelming predominance of the French nation. The

Crusades were the “Gesta Dei per Francos.” Captain Gray’s act laid

the foundation for the American title to Oregon.--_Ed._

[26] Cooper seized upon this well known fact for some striking

passages in his novel “Afloat and Ashore.”--_Ed._

[27] Duffel, a coarse woollen cloth named from the town near Antwerp

in which it was manufactured.--_Ed._

[28] Leather canoes. They consist of a skeleton of wood, over which

is stretched a covering made of the skins of sea-lions. They are long

and narrow, and hold from one to three persons. Each person sits in a

round hole just fitted to the size of the body.--[Author’s note.]

[29] George von Langsdorff was born in Heidelberg in the Grand

Duchy of Baden in 1774, his father being at that time Chancellor of

the University of Heidelberg. Having taken the degree of Doctor of

Medicine at the University of Göttingen, he shortly afterward went

with Prince Waldeck to Lisbon as his physician. On the death of the

Prince he returned by way of England to his home. At the age of

thirty he accompanied Admiral Krusenstern, as botanist, on a voyage

around the world. Emperor Alexander I of Russia made him a Knight of

the Order of St. Anne with the rank of Aulic Councillor, and also

made him a Baron. Later he appointed him Consul General at the port

of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, a post which he held with honor for many

years. He died at Freiburg, Baden, in 1852, in the seventy-eighth

year of his age. Besides other volumes he published an account of his

trip around the world under the title “Bemerkungen auf einer Reise um

die Welt in den Jahren 1803 bis 1807 von Copenhagen nach Brasilien,

der Sudsee, Kamtschatka, und Japan.” The second volume treats of his

journey “Von Kamtschatka nach der Insel St. Paul, Unalaska, Kodiak,

Sitcha, Neu Albion, Kamtschatka, Ochotsk und durch Sibirien nach

St. Petersburg.” Captain DeWolf must have had a translation of this

volume at hand when he wrote his own story. The German naturalist and

the American sea captain were evidently “two of a kind.” How highly

the American esteemed his friend may be judged from the fact that

he named his only son John Langsdorff. The boy was always called

Langsdorff.--_Ed._

[30] In the Russian Church all the priests are called Popes, _i.e._,

Fathers, Papa = Father. So in the Latin Church all priests were Popes

until the supremacy of the Pope of Rome was established. Cf. the

development of the English “Parson.”--_Ed._

[31] Dr. Langsdorff in his “Reise” devotes much space to the

treatment of the Arctic dogs.--_Ed._

[32] Even in the great Cathedral of Kazan, in Petrograd, the

arrangements for a christening seem, to a foreigner, somewhat

primitive. There not a tub is used for the immersion but an iron

basin supported upon a tripod. Captain De Wolf had forgotten many

features of the beautiful ceremony.--_Ed._

[33] Dr. Langsdorff’s account of this incident shows Captain De

Wolf’s character in a very beautiful light: “I cannot pass over in

silence an affecting scene which occurred just before his departure.

The three Aleutians whom I have frequently spoken of as serving as

sailors on our ship, came to Captain De Wolf, and, with tears running

down their cheeks, threw themselves at his feet and begged him to

take them with him to his native land. ‘We will serve you without

pay. We will ask only for a little bread and fish. We will follow

your horses, even though we must go on foot a great part of the way.

We would rather go with you than return to our own country.’ Mr. De

Wolf was greatly troubled because he could not grant their request.”

Langsdorff, Reise, vol. 2, page 292.--_Ed._

[34] A verst is 212⅕ rods, or, roughly, five eighths of a

mile.--[Author’s note.]

[35] It will be noted that Captain De Wolf nowhere speaks of

vodka.--_Ed._

[36] Our traveller was as much impressed with this habit of kissing

as was Erasmus on his first landing in England. The Dutch scholar

was pleased with the English fashion, which is, on the whole, far

superior to the Russian style.--_Ed._

[37] Flying ferry boats not unlike these may be seen on some

California rivers today.--_Ed._

[38] At least 448,000 pounds.--_Ed._

[39] This was five years before the burning of Moscow in the

Napoleonic War.--_Ed._