PART II

NORWEST JOHN AND THE VOYAGE OF THE JUNO

1--NORWEST JOHN

John De Wolf was born in Bristol on September 6, 1779. His father,

Simon, the third son of Mark Anthony, founder of the Bristol family,

was lost at sea with his older brother, Mark, in 1779 or ’80, when

his only child was but an infant in arms. He was forced by poverty

to begin a seafaring life at the age of thirteen. His great ability

quickly manifested itself and at the age of twenty-four he was placed

in command of a vessel bound on one of the most fascinating as well

as one of the most hazardous voyages known to the commerce of that

time, a voyage to the Northwest Coast. The story of his experiences

he tells in the pages that follow. For some years after his return

to his native town he continued in the Russian-American trade for

which the knowledge of the language gained during his stay in Russian

territory well qualified him. Having attained the age of forty-eight

he retired from the sea and for some years lived, like many retired

captains, the life of a farmer, upon the farm occupied for years

as a summer home by his relative, the late Bishop Howe of Central

Pennsylvania. Thence he moved to a farm at Brighton, Massachusetts,

and, leaving that, spent the last years of his life with his

daughter, Mrs. Downing, at Dorchester. Very delightful must have been

those last years. The daring sailor whose nerves had never failed him

in moments of greatest peril on the ocean was a man of tender nature

and of a most lovable disposition.

Of him his granddaughter penned this beautiful picture:[23]

“I never knew a more beautiful old age. Beloved by those of all ages,

he had many friends among the young people and was young with them,

and his grandchildren were devoted to him. They called him ‘White

Grandpa,’ on account of his silvery hair, to distinguish him from

my father. They always knew in just what spot in the room to look

for candy and fruits which he always had for them, and if there was

anything they particularly wanted they were always sure that ‘White

Grandpa’ would give it to them. Like so many old people it was hard

for him to adapt himself to modern improvements. And especially

the new ideas of shipbuilding were not always to his liking. At

a window of a room in our summer home, commanding a fine view of

Boston harbor, we would often find him holding his spy-glass at arm’s

length, and if sometimes we would ask ‘What do you see, Grandpa?’ he

would invariably reply, ‘I was looking at those blasted three masted

schooners.’”

In the days of his life at sea a three masted schooner was almost

unknown, and the schooner rigged vessel was rarely seen except on

the American coast of the North Atlantic Ocean. Everywhere else

square sails were the rule. Even the “tub” of twenty-five tons on

which Captain De Wolf made his voyage of twenty-five hundred miles

to Ochotsk was a brig. At his death no naval constructor had dreamed

of a five masted schooner, and a seven master would have been deemed

impossible. Today all the great colliers carry five or six masts

and there is not a square rigger among them. The schooner rig is

distinctively American. The first schooner ever constructed is said

to have been built in Gloucester, Massachusetts, about the year 1713,

by Captain Andrew Robinson. In two centuries it has driven the square

rigged ship from the Atlantic coast of North America. In the great

ports upon the Pacific coast square sails are still frequent, though

they are seen for the most part upon the masts of foreign ships.

The schooner rig has conquered even that former home of most rigid

conservatism which was opened to the commerce of the world in 1854,

by a Rhode Island naval officer, when Commodore M. C. Perry dropped

anchor near the little fishing village of Yokohama, Japan. As one

passes through the “Inland Sea” today he notes that all the fleet

craft skimming over its waves are rigged in the American way. The

schooner has driven the slow moving “junk” out of business as far as

those waters are concerned.

Captain De Wolf died in Dorchester, on March 8, 1872, aged

ninety-two.

2--VOYAGE OF THE JUNO

A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH PACIFIC AND A JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA MORE THAN

HALF A CENTURY AGO. BY CAPTAIN JOHN D’WOLF. (CAMBRIDGE, 1861)

_Preface_

My only object in combining the reminiscences and memoranda of my

first voyage as a shipmaster into a connected narrative is to leave

some slight record of that voyage in my family. Although I am not one

of those who regard everything beyond the smoke of their own chimneys

as marvellous I think my expedition to the Northwest Coast was made a

little remarkable from the circumstance that I met at Norfolk Sound

his Excellency Baron von Resanoff, to whom I sold my vessel, and then

crossed the Pacific in a little craft of twenty-five tons burden, and

after an overland journey of twenty-five hundred miles returned home

by way of St. Petersburg. This was a voyage and travels more than

half a century ago, and I was probably the first American who passed

through Siberia. I know that others have claimed to be the first,

and have published descriptions of the country; but I had gone over

the same route before any of these claimants were born. I have often

regretted that I did not make any note of what I saw, and that I had

not the requisite qualifications to write an extended account of it;

but business called my thoughts in other directions. I must now be

content to give this imperfect sketch, the materials of which are

drawn principally from memory.

VOYAGE.

I.

The Ship Juno.--Her Outfit.--And Voyage to the Northwest Coast.

I commenced a seafaring life at the early age of thirteen, and

followed it through all its changes, continually rising in rank,

until I reached my twenty-fourth year. Then, after a series of long

voyages to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope as chief mate, in

the summer of 1804 I returned to my native town, resolved on a short

respite of a few months from a close application of eleven years.

I had enjoyed this leisure but a little while, however, when my

employers, Messrs. Charles, James, and George D’Wolf, purchased a

fine ship,[24] called the Juno, of about two hundred and fifty tons

burden, and projected a voyage to the Northwest Coast of America to

collect furs for the China market. They proposed that I should take

the command. I had no expectation of such an offer, since I thought

myself too young and inexperienced to enter upon an entirely new

branch of trade, and entertained some misgivings of my qualifications

for such an enterprise. At the same time I could not so far doubt

my abilities as to neglect so advantageous an opportunity, and I

therefore accepted the trust.

Having engaged in the undertaking, we lost no time in making the

necessary arrangements, in procuring a cargo suitable for traffic,

and in preparing the vessel for the voyage. When ready for sea, the

Juno and her lading were valued at $35,000. The Juno at that day

was considered a crack ship, and her outfit embraced all that was

needed for both comfort and convenience. She mounted eight carriage

guns, and was otherwise armed in proportion, and when hauled into the

stream presented quite a formidable and warlike appearance. Such an

equipment was essential in her time for the dangerous business for

which she was destined. The crew also would now be considered too

large for a craft of the same tonnage,--for it numbered twenty-six

men and boys, viz: Samuel G. Newell, First Mate; John A. Thomas,

Second Mate; James Moorfield, Clerk; Richard Cammett, Joseph Hooper,

Armorers; Thomas Hunt, Boatswain; John Jones, Carpenter; D. Bucklin,

E. Bucklin, W. H. Tripp, D. Tatton, J. Stokes, J. Wheeler, W.

Foy, J. Marshall, J. D. Cook, W. Phipps, J. Wheesner, J. Powers,

S. Patterson, Seamen; J. Hanson, Cook; E. D. Parker, Musician; R.

Hitchcock, Tailor; T. Murphy, J. Mahoney, boys. Thus manned and

equipped, we took leave of our friends, weighed anchor, and put to

sea on the 13th of August, 1804.

Having now fairly embarked again on the ocean, which had become a

home to me, I began immediately to attend to those duties which its

dangers imposed. Our anchors and cables were soon stowed away, the

crew divided, the watch set, and everything prepared for all winds

and weathers. We sailed in a southeasterly direction, with light

breezes, and for a number of days nothing varied the monotony which

the sea wears to those who have been long accustomed to it. On the

20th of September we saw at a distance St. Antonio, one of the Cape

de Verde Islands. We then bent our course to the south, and were

favored with fine leading winds until we reached that region of the

ocean between the northeast and southeast trade-winds, which is

doomed to perpetual squalls and calms, thunder, lightning, and rain.

This vexatious weather was the source of one advantage, however.

It afforded an opportunity for filling our water-casks, which was

essential in the long voyage and moderate progress we were making.

On the 9th of November we crossed the equator in longitude 24° W.

Fifty-six days to the line! Well, this certainly seems to be a long

passage in comparison with those made in more modern times by the

straight course pointed out by Lieut. Maury. Yet the difference is

not so very extraordinary, when we consider the improvements in the

sciences of navigation and naval architecture. Clippers may pursue

a route with impunity which was not so safe or practicable for the

square-built, seven-knot ships of half a century ago. The straight

course was by no means unknown in those days, and it was sometimes

followed; but with dull sailing vessels it was necessary to be more

cautious, and make their “easting” while in the region of variable

winds. That we crossed the Atlantic, in my time, thrice, as it is

said, in going to the Cape of Good Hope, I deny. A majority of the

passages made by the circuitous track would compare favorably with

those made now by the same class of ships, notwithstanding the

superior knowledge of winds and currents, and the numerous nautical

instruments of which sea-captains avail themselves. At all events,

navigation is not now carried on with more, if as much safety as

formerly. Inducements are held out, in these go-ahead days, to make

quick passages, regardless of ship and cargo, and the interests of

the underwriters. Too implicit reliance is placed on instruments and

figures at the expense of that most essential point in navigation, a

vigilant lookout, and to the neglect of the use of the lead.

October 10th. We fell in with a large Spanish ship from Havana for

Rio Janeiro, ninety days out. Being now several degrees in south

latitude, the weather was serene and the sea smooth; there was a fine

breeze from the southeast. On the 12th, we spoke a Portuguese ship

from Oporto, also bound to Rio Janeiro. She had a large number of

passengers on board, many of whom were sick, as they were destitute

of all kinds of vegetables. I supplied them with potatoes and

onions, for which they were very grateful, and presented in return a

quantity of Port wine. A continuance of the pleasant weather enabled

us to make various repairs in the rigging, which had been drenched

and buffeted by incessant tempests to the north of the line. The

change seemed to put new life and animation into the whole crew.

All hands were actively employed with a good will in their various

departments,--the armorers at the forge, the carpenter fitting the

boats for service on the coast, the sail-makers upon the sails. Thus

the vessel was put in fine condition for meeting the rough gales of

Cape Horn. These we began to encounter in lat. 40° S.

November 12th, lat. 48° S., long. 51° W., we fell in with the ship

Mary, of Boston, Capt. Trescott, bound to the Northwest Coast of

America, and I agreed to keep company with him until we had doubled

the Cape. This arrangement could be no impediment to our progress,

as our vessels were nearly equal sailors.--November 15th, we saw

the Falkland Islands bearing from southeast to southwest, fifteen

miles distant. From our longitude we judged ourselves to be nearer

the western extremity, but the wind inclining westward compelled us

to pass to the eastward of them.--November 19th, the wind from the

westward increased to a gale, with a heavy swell, which brought both

ships under short sail. At eight, P. M., the Mary bore upon our

weather quarter, about two miles distant. At ten, the wind continuing

the same, I left the deck, charging the officer of the watch to be

careful that we did not approach each other too near. At daylight it

was perceived that she had approached us considerably, though she

still held a position on the weather quarter at a sufficient distance

to be out of danger. But through inattention of the officer on board

the Mary to the steering, she was brought under our lee within hail;

of this I was not informed by the mate in command on the deck. The

Juno was making but slow progress through the water, being under

short sail, with a heavy sea running, and obliged to keep close to

the wind in order to avoid a collision. In this way, the ship’s

headway would be so checked that she would fall off two or three

points, regardless of the helm. While thus situated, the Mary was in

the act of coming to, and the Juno falling off, when, before either

ship had gained sufficient headway to be under quick command of the

helm, our whole broadsides came into contact with a crash that made

every timber quake. I immediately rushed on deck, and beheld with

amazement our perilous situation. In which, spite of all our efforts

to get clear, we remained nearly fifteen minutes, cutting and tearing

our bulwarks, channels, and plank-sheer, and making sad work with our

rigging. Finally we separated, and without apparently sustaining any

injury below our plank-sheer.

This may be an uninteresting matter for record to many, but it is

one of those casualties which not infrequently occur from a reckless

neglect, or a want of ordinary judgment, and yet where no one is

willing to acknowledge himself at fault. They show that caution is to

be regarded as a cardinal point of practical navigation. I am bold to

say, that, if I had been apprised of our proximity, the collision

would never have taken place.

When endeavoring to extricate the two ships, Mr. Stetson, first mate

of the Mary, while on a poise upon her railing, to save himself from

falling overboard, made a leap for the Juno, and landed on her deck.

In the course of the day the weather became more moderate, and we put

him aboard his own ship and continued our course without attempting

to keep company with her. We were favored with mild weather until the

24th, which brought us into lat. 56° S. Here commenced a series of

very severe gales from the westward, which continued with unabated

violence for ten days. On the 5th of December the wind veered to the

southward, which enabled us to make some progress, so that on the

10th I judged myself fairly to the north and west of the Cape, and

a fine southwest wind was carrying us fast from it. On the 13th, as

luck would have it, we fell in again with our old consort, the Mary,

and sailed along with her until the 29th. Being then in lat. 44° S.

and long. 85° W., I deemed it expedient to hold a consultation with

my officers on the propriety of touching upon the coast of Chili, in

preference to the Sandwich Islands, which was our previous intention.

This was thought advisable on account of the damage sustained during

our boisterous passage of one hundred and thirty-eight days. The

copper on the ship’s bottom, which had been worn as thin as paper

during a previous long voyage of three years, had now become full

of holes, and was torn off in many places by whole sheets. This and

other injuries which could not be repaired at sea, in addition to

the fact that all our fuel was consumed except that stowed under the

cargo, and on this account we had for some time been obliged to

dispense with cooking oftener than once a week, induced us to part

company again with the Mary, and shape our course for Concepcion.

I was well aware of the natural and deep-rooted jealousy of the

Spaniards; but while I apprehended trouble on this score, I was

determined to find admittance to some port, after having relinquished

my original scheme of visiting the Sandwich Islands.

On the 1st of January, 1805, at 2 P. M., we saw land bearing from

southeast to northeast, fifteen miles distant, and shortly after the

island of St. Maria. At the same time we saw a ship standing out

from the shore, which we spoke. She was a whaler from New Bedford.

The wind was blowing so hard that we could learn nothing further.

At sunset it had died away, and left us still four or five miles

off Concepcion. As it was not practicable to make the harbor in the

night-time, we tacked ship and stood out from the coast, with a

view to holding our situation to the windward until morning, and at

midnight we tacked and stood in again. At daybreak, however, we found

the current had set us a considerable distance north of our port.

I accordingly resolved to make sail for Valparaiso; since that was

the principal port in Chili, we had reason to anticipate a better

reception than at any place of less note, where our presence might

have excited unjust suspicions of unlawful trade. Our sole object was

to repair our vessel and obtain supplies for our voyage, and these by

the laws of humanity they could not in justice refuse us.

The weather continued remarkably serene and pleasant, with light

breezes and frequent calms; and as we coasted along within eight or

ten miles of the shore, we had a most splendid view of the Andes,

towering far above the clouds. On the morning of the 8th, we entered

the bay of Valparaiso. Before we reached a safe anchorage, we were

visited by an officer from the Governor, who requested to know who

we were, whence we came, and the object of our visit,--all of which

I explained to his apparent satisfaction. The boat then returned to

the shore with a message to the Governor, while the officer remained

on board, saying that he could not suffer us to anchor until he

received orders. But before the boat returned, the ship had reached

the anchorage ground, and we came to immediately, notwithstanding

his remonstrances. The boat brought a peremptory command to leave

the bay; but this was out of the question, and so I as peremptorily

refused. I was summoned before the Governor to present my papers for

examination, and account for my conduct. After examining my invoices

and other documents, and listening to a candid explanation of the

reasons which induced me to come into port, he was convinced that my

destination was the Northwest Coast. I was accordingly permitted to

remain until I received further orders from the Governor-General,

at St. Jago, to whom a messenger was despatched. In the mean time

I was allowed to take on board as much wood and water, and fresh

provisions, as I chose. The harbor was too rough and exposed, to make

the repairs we needed, and therefore we weighed anchor and sailed for

Coquimbo, where we arrived on the 20th, and dropped anchor in six

fathoms of water, on the west side of the bay, about eight miles from

the town. Here we remained until the 28th, when, having completed our

repairs as far as practicable, we put to sea with a fine breeze from

the south.

When we reached 4° S. lat., we had series of calms, with pleasant

weather, and a very smooth sea. In this neighborhood we saw great

numbers of green turtle, and by capturing several we added a delicacy

to our larder. February 20th, between 9 and 11 A. M., I obtained

several distances of the sun and moon, the mean of which made the

long. 108° W.; at meridian, I found we had crossed the equator into

north latitude. The wind continued very light and variable until the

4th of March, when it inclined to the northeast. On the 16th, we

crossed the Tropic of Cancer. At this point the winds again became

variable and squally. On the 7th of April, we had strong gales and

threatening sky, with rain at intervals. At 8 P. M. of that date

I put the ship under short sail, and hauled upon the wind to the

northward, deeming it imprudent to continue on our course through the

night, because, by my calculations, we were in the vicinity of land.

In the morning the weather moderated, and at 5 A. M. we saw land

bearing from north-northeast to east, which proved to be the northern

part of Vancouver’s Island. At 2 P. M. we saw Scott’s Island bearing

north-northwest, sixteen miles distant. At nightfall the clouds wore

an ugly look; so we hauled by the wind to the westward, under short

sail. At midnight we had a heavy blow, but it died away by light, and

we saw Scott’s Island again; at 9 A. M. it bore south, five miles.

The wind beginning again to rise, I determined if possible to make

a harbor before night. With this intention I shaped my course for

Newettee.

Newettee was a small inlet in the northwestern promontory of

Vancouver’s Island, and sheltered from the sea by a long island

running nearly east and west. Between the two was a strait, through

which we must enter to gain our port. As we drew near the entrance,

the wind became very light, and at sunset we were still three miles

from it. Being myself entirely unacquainted with the coast, I was

inclined to lay off until morning; but my officers were all more

or less familiar with it, and so positive of their knowledge that

I concluded to proceed. At eight in the evening we crossed the bar

at the mouth of the strait, and entered. The wind had fallen now to

a dead calm, and left us exposed to a very strong current, which

carried us toward an inlet in the island to the north of us; and at

the same time it was evident that we were approaching the shore very

fast. Nothing could surpass the terrific appearance of the scenery;

perpendicular cliffs towered from the water’s edge to a lofty height,

against which the sea beat with great violence. The ship getting no

steerage-way from her sails, and being in fact entirely unmanageable,

we hoisted out our boats to tow. The long-boat, which was of the most

consequence, sunk alongside; the yawl and the whaleboat were both

got ahead, but were so light that they had very little effect on the

vessel. We were now within three rods of a high projecting point,

and the soundings showed forty-five fathoms of water. We let go the

kedge-anchor to keep the bow off, and it had the desired effect. By

great exertions in the boats, assisted in the ship by the application

of all the oars we had, we barely succeeded in keeping clear of the

rocks, which could now be reached with an oar. As the tide swept us

along, we were threatened with destruction by every sea which dashed

against them. At length, by the aid of a light air which sprung up,

we got out of the irregular current near the shore, and, slipping

our cable and leaving our anchor, moved towards the harbor on the

south side of the straits. When about two thirds of the way across,

I despatched a boat with an officer to find the entrance. The boat

not returning in due time, I discharged a musket as a signal. It was

answered from a vessel lying within, and shortly after one of the

officers came aboard her, and informed us that it was the ship Pearl

of Boston, Capt. Ebbets.[25] He very politely offered to pilot us

in, and by his assistance we were soon brought safely to anchor in

fifteen fathoms of water. This was the 10th of April, 1805.

II.

Newettee and the Natives.--Kygarney.--Norfolk Sound.--Sell

Part of my Cargo to the Russians.--Governor Baranoff.--Chatham

Straits.--Newettee again.--Return to Chatham Straits.--Trade

with the Indians.--On the Rocks.--Sail to Norfolk Sound for

Repairs.--Arrival of Resanoff and Party.--The Juno sold to the

Russians.--Departure of my Crew for Canton.

At last I was at anchor on the Northwest Coast. Newettee was one

of the southernmost harbors frequented by American fur-traders,

being in lat. 51° N., and long. 128° W. It was nothing more than a

nook, as I said before, in the northern end of Vancouver’s Island.

We found it tolerably well sheltered from all winds except those

from the north and northeast; on this quarter it was exposed to a

reach of about three miles. As the prevalent wind during our stay

of ten days was from the south and southwest, we lay in perfect

safety, notwithstanding it was one continued gale, accompanied with

hail and rain. Everything around us, the sea, the sky, and the

precipitous shore, covered with a forest of heavy timber, wore a

most gloomy aspect. The Indians had no permanent residence here,

but made it merely a place of resort for traffic on the arrival of

ships. For this purpose it was considered at certain seasons one

of the best harbors on the coast, as there are many large villages

in its vicinity. We were visited daily by a great number of the

Indians, who generally brought with them a few sea-otter skins, but

not enough to make trade brisk. They were exceedingly sharp in all

their intercourse with us, being great beggars, withal. It seemed

impossible to satisfy them for their skins, and they were ready to

grasp at everything they saw. They were a very stout and robust

people, and in some things not destitute of skill. Their boats were

hewn from a single log, and varied in size from sixteen feet in

length and three in breadth, to thirty-five in length and six in

breadth. Their paddles were made and ornamented with a great deal of

neatness.

Deriving but little benefit from our traffic, we employed ourselves

in putting the ship in good order for beating about the coast. By

the 20th we had completed our work, and weighed anchor, and put to

sea in company with the Pearl, directing our course to the northward

of Kygarney, a harbor in lat. 54°30′ N., which, from its central

situation, is considered the best place of resort for ships on their

first arrival, to obtain information for establishing a rate of

trade. For several days we sailed in a thick fog, which, lifting at

intervals, showed us different points of Queen Charlotte’s Island. We

gained our port on the 27th, and found there the ships Vancouver,

Captain Brown, and Caroline, Captain Sturgis, both of Boston; the

latter, having obtained her cargo, about to leave the coast for

Canton.

During our stay here we got in a new mizzen-mast in place of the old

one, which was sprung, and furnished our vessel with such other spars

as we thought we should need. We were daily visited by the Indians,

who generally brought a few skins; but they were so extravagant in

their demands for them that it was impossible to trade. We frequently

had thirty or forty lying about the decks the whole day long,

endeavoring to extort unreasonable prices for their furs, at the same

time affecting the utmost indifference whether they sold them or not.

Occasionally they were quite insulting; but policy induced us to put

up with insults, in hopes of driving a bargain.

The numerous inlets in the vicinity abounded with salmon, and every

other variety of fish, and wild game was very plenty. But on the

whole the harbor was poor and unsafe. The land here, as at Newettee,

was exceedingly elevated, rising abruptly from the shore, and covered

with heavy timber, chiefly of the fir kind. The water is very deep,

which compelled a vessel to anchor so near the land as to be exposed

to any hostile demonstration on the part of the savages.[26] Attacks

were not rare when only one ship was in port. From long intercourse

with American traders, the natives had become extremely expert in the

use of the musket, in the choice of which they showed great judgment

and sagacity, and invariably selected a king’s arm in preference to

the most finished fowling-piece. On account of the many instances of

bloodshed by them, they were not allowed to come on board armed, but

it was necessary to show them every indulgence within the bounds of

prudence.

Not being likely to receive much benefit from a longer stay here,

I resolved to proceed at once to the settlement of the Russians on

Norfolk Sound, since a great part of my cargo consisted of articles

adapted to their use. We had rum, tobacco, molasses, sugar, rice,

wooden ware, duffels,[27] &c., which the Indians will take only as

presents, as well as those commodities intended for trade with them,

viz. blankets, muskets, powder, and balls.

On the 7th of May we put to sea, with pleasant weather and a moderate

breeze from the west, and directed our course to the northward. On

the 8th, the wind increased to a gale, and veered to the south,

which brought thick fog and rain. On the 9th it became clear, and we

obtained a good view of the land, and discovered that we were near

the entrance of the sound, about mid-channel, with Mount Edgecombe

bearing northwest, ten miles distant. We stood in under a press of

sail, and at about eleven came to anchor in Magee’s Harbor, as it was

called, on the west side of the sound. We found erected on the shore

a guide-post, pointing out the direction of the village, and the date

of its establishment. We were soon visited by several baidarkas[28]

with Kodiak Indians, from whom we endeavored to obtain information.

The only word they used, which we could understand, was Baranoff,

which we knew to be the name of the governor or superintendent of the

settlement. As soon as the news of our arrival in the sound reached

there, a pilot was despatched to our assistance, and, the wind being

favorable, he brought us round to the village, and we anchored on the

10th of May abreast of the fort.

Mr. Abraham Jones, an American in the Russian service, immediately

came on board, with the Governor’s compliments, and kind offers of

protection, and any aid we might need which it was in his power to

give. Accompanied by Mr. Moorfield, I accepted an invitation to go

on shore and have an interview with him. Mr. Jones officiated as

interpreter. I was introduced by him to his Excellency, and received

with every mark of friendship and hospitality. After exchanging the

usual compliments, we were ushered into an apartment where we found

a table spread with all the luxuries the place afforded. While we

regaled ourselves with the sumptuous fare, the conversation turned to

the subject of my cargo. The Governor appeared willing and desirous

to exchange furs on fair terms for such articles as they needed. We

returned on board in the evening, well pleased with our reception, I

might say agreeably disappointed, as I had been led to believe from

various reports that we should find the Russians little advanced from

the savage state.

As the success of my voyage depended on the utmost possible despatch,

no time was lost in establishing a rate of exchange with our new

friends; which being adjusted to our mutual advantage, I was enabled

to disencumber the vessel of a large portion of the bulkiest part of

my cargo,--such as has been mentioned on a preceding page.

From the kind treatment received from the Governor, I was induced

to form a very favorable opinion of him. He was sixty-five years of

age, and had spent the last eighteen years of his life at different

stations on the coast, in the capacity of agent and officer of the

Russian American Company,--excluded, as it were, from all civilized

society, except that of a few of his fellow-adventurers. He possessed

a strong mind, easy manners and deportment, and was apparently well

fitted for the place he filled. He commanded the greatest respect

from the Indians, who regarded him with mingled feelings of love and

fear.

Owing to frequent storms of rain, which unavoidably retarded the

progress of our business, my stay at this place was prolonged until

the 27th of May. With pleasant weather and a moderate breeze we

then weighed anchor, and sailed from Norfolk Sound. We proceeded

up Chatham Straits as high as Lynn Canal, in lat. 59° N., thence

southward to Newettee in lat. 51° N., touching at as many of the

intermediate harbors as we found it practicable, and making some

trade. We arrived at Newettee on the 28th of June, at the same time

with the brig Lydia and the ships Vancouver and Athawalpa. The latter

had been attacked by the Indians, who killed Capt. Porter and all the

officers, and wounded many of the sailors. She had fallen in with the

other ship and brig, belonging to the same owners, and had proceeded

to this place for assistance. Here we found the Pearl and the Mary.

I shall not attempt a detail of the occurrences, or give a

description of the harbors and inlets we visited in our voyage from

Norfolk Sound. While here we rendered all the assistance in our power

in manning and equipping the Athawalpa for Canton, and then, on the

11th of July, again left Newettee and sailed northward for Chatham

Straits. Touching at a number of places on our passage, on the 27th

we entered the mouth of the straits, and proceeded up as far as

Point Retreat in lat. 58° N. Here the Indians were very numerous,

and appeared to have a great number of skins for sale, but declined

trading, unless we brought the ship to anchor, which was unnecessary,

as the wind was light and the sea smooth. There was nothing to

interrupt a traffic if they really felt willing to open one; but, in

order to comply with their wishes as far as possible, I made several

attempts to get an anchorage, and was only prevented by the depth of

the water. Still the Indians kept round us in great numbers, there

being at least thirty or forty canoes of them. At the same time we

perceived that they were all armed, and this, with their obstinacy,

gave us strong suspicions that they were bent on mischief more

than commerce. As it was nearly sunset, and there was no prospect

of bringing them to terms, I concluded to make the best of my way

down the straits. The wind was light, and the tide against us. The

Indians, seeing plainly that we could make but little progress in

the course of the night, went on shore, and returned at daylight.

They came with the apparent determination to board us; but in their

absence we had made ample preparations to meet in a hostile as well

as a friendly manner. Seeing the impossibility of obtaining access to

the ship by force, they changed their tactics, and were inclined to

trade with us in a peaceable way. We therefore admitted one of the

chiefs at the gangway, and through him commenced a brisk traffic,

which continued until we had bought their whole stock of furs.

They then left us to continue our course down the straits without

molestation.

On the 5th of August we came to anchor in an extensive harbor,

situated near the entrance of Chatham Straits, between Points

Sullivan and Ellis. Here we were detained several days by calms and

light westerly winds, which blew directly into the harbor, while

the entrance was so narrow that we found it impossible to beat out.

On the 10th we got under weigh, with the boats ahead to tow; but

the ebb tide began to run very strong, and drift the ship towards a

small island lying midway in the channel. Notwithstanding our utmost

efforts to avoid it by the use of oars and letting go an anchor, in

the darkness which had come on we had approached nearer the shore

than we supposed, and finally the keel struck upon the rocks. The

stream anchor was carried out with all possible despatch in order to

heave the vessel off, but in vain. The falling tide had left her too

fast. The only alternative left was to secure her in the best manner

possible before she began to keel over, and to prepare ourselves for

defence in case of an attack from the savages. Having furled all

the sails, sent down the top-gallant yards and masts, and lashed

our heavy guns amidship, we equipped our three boats with arms,

ammunition, and provision, lest the ship should bilge, which we had

great reason to apprehend, as we had still on board about two thirds

of our cargo. But as the tide left her we found that she did not lie

so much on her beam-ends as we had anticipated, but was supported by

three sharp rocks, one about midships, and the other two abreast the

fore and mizzen chains; her keel had also taken the rocks in several

places.

At sunrise the Indians began to assemble about us. At first they kept

aloof, and seemed to entertain some suspicions as to our movements;

but after going round the ship and examining her situation very

carefully, we prevailed upon some of them to come alongside. We

gave them to understand that we had hauled on shore to mend the

copper; and to convince them, I employed a gang of hands under the

ship’s bottom for that purpose. At 9 A. M. we had low water, and

as the perpendicular rise and fall of the tide was about fifteen

feet, we could now walk all round the vessel, and under the keel in

some places. In the mean time some of the officers were employed in

trading with the Indians for their furs; and to make ourselves secure

in case they had any hostile intentions, we succeeded in enticing one

of the chiefs on board, whom we detained as a hostage. Thus relieved

in a measure from any apprehension of an attack from the natives, and

having done everything in our power to ease the ship, we lost no time

in caulking and stopping in the best possible manner such places as

had been strained open by her ponderous weight upon the rocks. The

two seams below the plank-sheer were nearly an inch wide, as likewise

every butt from the fore to the mizzen-mast. To clear the bilge of

the ship we rigged one of our pumps in the main hatchway, and drew

out a considerable quantity of molasses and water. After some brisk

work, we had the satisfaction of finding that the vessel righted with

the flowing tide, and at high water, to our great joy, she floated.

When we hauled into the stream again, we were happy to find that

she did not leak so badly as we had reason to anticipate. The only

perceptible injury was on the side which laid on the rocks, and that

was bent or hogged up, as the phrase is, about half a foot. We now

liberated our hostage, after making him a very liberal present for

his detention.

While we were aground, we had a favorable opportunity to examine the

copper on the ship’s bottom, which proved to be in a very shattered

condition; and as we had reason to apprehend more damage than was

visible, I deemed it advisable to proceed at once to the Russian

settlement at Norfolk Sound, where, under protection from the

Indians, we might discharge our cargo, and make repairs in peace.

Accordingly, on the 12th of August we put to sea, and made the best

of our way for that place. On our route we fell in again with the

Mary, and, in company with her, arrived on the 14th, and anchored

abreast the village. I was again received by Governor Baranoff with

that kind and obliging hospitality which made him loved and respected

by every visitor.

No time was lost in preparing to lay the Juno on shore, in order to

ascertain the extent of the damage. In this I was greatly facilitated

by the Governor, who allowed me to occupy an old hulk, into which I

shifted my cargo, with the exception of the furs. We had collected

about a thousand sea-otter skins, and these I sent to Canton by the

Mary, which sailed on the 20th. Notwithstanding our utmost exertions,

our preparations were not completed until the 1st of September, and

then, to my great surprise and regret, I found twenty of the floor

timbers broken, and the copper in a very ragged condition. I was,

however, gratified to find the planks all sound and good except in

one place, where the carpenter cut out a large fragment of the rock,

which had penetrated the bottom, and adhered so closely as to prevent

the admission of water. By the 6th of September we had completed such

repairs as were practicable and hauled into the stream, knowing no

other alternative than to make the best of our crippled ship, and

endeavor to prosecute the remainder of our voyage with more caution.

Having again adjusted the rigging, replenished our stores of wood

and water, and put everything in the best possible trim for sea,

I submitted to Governor Baranoff a project of an expedition to

the southern coast of New Albion and California, which he readily

accepted. My idea was to take on board fifty or sixty Kodiak Indians,

with their canoes, for the purpose of catching sea-otter, those

animals being very numerous on that coast. Everything in this new

plan being agreed upon and settled, we were to wait until the 1st of

October for the Indians, who were out on a hunting expedition, under

the protection of two small vessels, and expected to return by the

last of the month.

While we were waiting, the Russian brig Maria arrived at the

settlement. She was under the command of Andrew W. Maschin, a

lieutenant in the navy, and had on board as passenger Nicholas

Resanoff, a nobleman, who, after an unsuccessful embassy to Japan,

returned to Kamtchatka _en route_ to the posts on the Northwest Coast

belonging to the Russian American Company, in which he was himself

a large proprietor. With him came also two other lieutenants in the

Russian navy, Nicholas Schwostoff and John Davidoff, Doctor Geo.

Langsdorff, and two ship-carpenters, Messrs. Korükin and Popoff,

who were to build a ship at this place. To all these new-comers I

was formally introduced by my friend the Governor, and received the

assurances of his Excellency, Baron von Resanoff, that he would

facilitate, in every way in his power, the execution of my California

scheme. Several days after this arrival were passed in festivity

and mirth, and business was entirely suspended. The appearance of

so distinguished a personage, whose authority was for a time to

supersede even that of the Governor, was an event of great moment.

In conversation with Dr. Langsdorff on the inconvenience of building

and equipping a large vessel where the necessary materials were so

difficult to procure, I observed to him, jocosely, that I would sell

them my ship, which would obviate the necessity of building. The

conversation being communicated to his Excellency, he wished to know

whether I would really sell my ship, and if so, what would be the

price. This was a subject on which I had not reflected, and which

required some deliberation on several accounts. Having about two

thirds of my cargo on board, it was necessary to ascertain of what it

consisted to estimate its value, being well aware that I could not

dispose of my vessel by itself alone. How my officers and crew were

to leave the coast was another serious difficulty. But while I was

deliberating on the expediency of the measure, the two small vessels,

the Yermerk and Russisloff, which I mentioned above, returned from

the hunting expedition. The former, a craft of forty tons, appeared

to be suitable for my purpose, and I therefore availed myself of the

opportunity, and offered my ship, and the remainder of my cargo, for

the sum of $68,000, payable in the following manner, viz.: bills of

exchange on the Directors of the Russian American Company at St.

Petersburg for the sum of $54,638; 572 sea-otter skins for the sum of

$13,062; and $300 in cash; together with the fore-named vessel, the

Yermerk, completely rigged, two suits of sails, four carriage guns,

thirty muskets, with ammunition for the same, and provisions for my

crew for one hundred days. This offer was accepted, and the Juno

passed into the hands of the Russian American Company. On the 5th of

October, I delivered her up, under a salute from the fort and the

ship, when I hoisted the stars and stripes on the Yermerk, which had

become my property.

Having consummated our bargain by delivering up our ship, and taking

possession of our little craft, we set to work immediately to put

her into a condition to transport ourselves and the sea-otter skins

to Canton. This work was completed by the 15th; and while we were

waiting for favorable weather to put to sea, his Excellency suggested

to me the advisability of despatching the Yermerk for Canton, and

remaining myself at the settlement until spring, and then embarking

with himself and suite for Ochotsk, and proceeding to St. Petersburg

by land. The kind and courteous manner in which this proposition was

made to me was too flattering to be received with indifference. After

duly considering the subject, having in view the probable advantage

of presenting my bills of exchange in person the next winter, in

accordance with the advice of my friends, I concluded to avail myself

of his Excellency’s generous offer. I therefore gave the command

of the Yermerk to my first officer, Mr. George W. Stetson, and the

superintendence of the business to Mr. James Moorfield. Storms and

adverse winds prevented them from sailing until the 27th, when, with

a favorable breeze, they took their departure from Norfolk Sound,

with our most fervent prayers for their welfare and safe arrival at

Canton.

After taking a long parting look at the little vessel fading in the

horizon, I returned to the village, full of melancholy forebodings

of a tedious and dreary winter in that rude and inhospitable region.

But it was of no use to repine; the business was settled, and I

concluded I would take things as they came, and make the best of

them. I had retained in my service, as valet, Edward D. Parker, one

of my ordinary sailors, but a very useful man of all work. A barber

by trade, he was also a tolerably good tailor, and performer on the

violin and clarinet. This latter accomplishment I thought might be

useful in dispelling the blues, if we should at any time be troubled

with that complaint. An apartment was assigned me by the Governor,

adjoining the room of Dr. Langsdorff, to which I removed my goods and

chattels. I had a sleeping bunk fitted up in one corner, and made

everything as comfortable as possible for a long siege. Having thus

taken up my residence among the Russians, I will pause to make some

explanations connected with my narrative.

III.

Nicholas Resanoff and the Japan Expedition.--The History of the

Russian Settlement at Norfolk Sound and the Founding of New

Archangel.--The Chinese Project.--Dr. Langsdorff and other New

Friends.--Visit to the Indians driven by the Russians from Archangel.

In September, 1803, an expedition sailed from Cronstadt, Russia,

for the Pacific Ocean, consisting of the two ships Nadeschda and

Neva, the former commanded by Capt. Krusenstern, and the latter by

Capt. Lisiansky, both experienced officers of the Imperial navy.

This was the first adventure the Russians ever attempted in the

Southern Ocean, and was prompted by the extension of the trade of

the Russian American Fur Company. It had the double purpose of

supplying the settlements on the Northwest Coast, and negotiating

a commercial treaty with Japan, which, being near the settlements,

would be a convenient place to obtain provisions and dispose of

commodities. Encouragement had been given by a letter received many

years previous from the Japanese, granting permission to come to the

port of Nangasaki; on the strength of this letter, and in view of the

advantages and facilities for intercourse, it was thought expedient

by the Imperial government to send an embassy to this strange people.

Accordingly, Nicholas Resanoff, a nobleman and Chamberlain to his

Majesty, the Emperor of all the Russias, was appointed, and embarked

in the Nadeschda, with powers plenipotentiary to negotiate with

the Court of Jedo. This part of the undertaking, as is well known,

proved a failure. After remaining at Nangasaki six months, subject a

part of the time to a partial imprisonment, and throughout to absurd

formalities and ridiculous vexations, he despaired of bringing about

a favorable result, and was compelled to depart for Kamtchatka,

without even obtaining an interview with the Emperor, and, in fact,

accomplishing nothing.

Baron von Resanoff was a person of rank and distinction, possessed of

many amiable qualities, and highly esteemed by the Emperor Alexander.

He was kind and affable to all around him, and always ready to hear

complaints, and afford every redress in his power for grievances. He

married the daughter of the famous Schelikoff, who was the pioneer

in the Russian discoveries and settlements on the Northwest Coast.

This circumstance caused him to be largely interested in the Fur

Company. His mission to Japan having terminated unfavorably, his

intention then was to visit and inspect all the stations of the

Company on the coast. He left the Nadeschda therefore at Kamtchatka,

and embarked on board the brig Maria. After touching at various

Russian establishments, he finally arrived at Norfolk Sound. The

Neva, Captain Lisiansky, pursued its course directly to the island

of Kodiak, and thence to Norfolk Sound, where it arrived August 20,

1804, and joined, by previous agreement, a small squadron of three

vessels under the command of Governor Baranoff.

The Russians had formerly a settlement on the Sound, situated several

miles from their present location, called Archangel, which was

destroyed by the Indians, and all the inhabitants massacred. The

Indians then established themselves on the spot, and erected strong

fortifications. The object of assembling the vessels was to chastise

and expel them, and this was accomplished after a siege of four days.

The Russians then selected an elevated and commanding situation in

the immediate vicinity. It was a singular round piece of land with

a flat top, standing out in the sea, and bearing the appearance of

a work of human hands. The only connection with the shore was by

a narrow isthmus. Here they put up several buildings, mounted a

considerable battery of heavy guns, and gave the place the name of

New Archangel.

The Neva then returned to Kodiak, where she wintered, and in the fall

of 1805 proceeded to Canton and rejoined the Nadeschda, which had

previously sailed thither. The aim in this movement was to accomplish

a third project of the Russian American Company, which, like the

Japan scheme, was unsuccessful. They desired to obtain permission

from the Chinese government to continue their intercourse with the

port of Canton, and so enable their ships to return by sea from the

settlements to Russia, with the proceeds of their furs. But the

Chinese objected, and insisted on their confining themselves to their

inland traffic at the north. Thus commerce for the future with Canton

was interdicted. I relate these events because they took place but a

short time previous to my sojourn at Norfolk Sound, and account for

the presence there of several persons of distinction.

George von Langsdorff,[29] a native of Frankfort, Germany, was

by profession a doctor of medicine and surgery, and by taste a

naturalist. He was a volunteer on the Russian American expedition,

and was in pursuit of science. On his arrival in Kamtchatka a

second time, he was invited by Baron von Resanoff to accompany

him to the Northwest Coast of America, as his physician. He was

particularly moved to accept the invitation by the opportunity

which was thus offered for the collection of specimens of natural

history. The Doctor, unlike Baron von Resanoff, spoke the English

language fluently. As I lived under the same roof with him, we became

almost inseparable, participating both in each others’ pleasures

and troubles. Lieutenants Schwostoff, Davidoff, and Maschin were

highly accomplished and meritorious officers, as were likewise the

two ship-builders, Messrs. Popoff and Korükin. They all seemed to

vie in attention and kindness to me as their guest, and by general

invitation I dined with these gentlemen at the Governor’s table.

The stock of provisions at the settlement had been very small and

of the poorest kind, and the increase of the population by the

arrival of the Ambassador and his suite made the subject of supplies

for the coming winter a matter for sober consideration; but by the

purchase of the Juno they were relieved from all serious anxiety on

that score, as a great part of her cargo consisted of good wholesome

provisions, such as beef, pork, flour, bread, rice, sugar, molasses,

rum, and tobacco. In fact, the desire to obtain these stores had

great weight in their negotiations with me. There was still, however,

some deficiency in inferior kinds of food, and a small vessel had

been despatched some time previously to Kodiak. It was so late in

the season she did not return. Now they were not afraid of winter

storms, for they had the Juno to send on the errand. She sailed,

under the command of Lieutenants Schwostoff and Davidoff, on the 27th

of October.

In the mean while the whole village, comprising a population of

150 Russians, and perhaps 250 Aleutians, was actively engaged in

preparing to meet the rigors of the approaching season. They built

log-houses, work-shops, and barracks. My friend Langsdorff was all

the time ranging the woods and the shores with his fowling-piece, in

quest of wild game for specimens, with which, after they had been

skinned for science’s sake, my man Parker made stews of various

descriptions. Being merely a sojourner at the settlement, I occupied

myself in watching the labors of others, getting acquainted with the

different characters and localities of the place, and learning the

use and management of baidarkas.

By the beginning of November the novelty of our situation had worn

off; the circumscribed range of our wanderings from the village

became monotonous and tiresome, and, as a number of our associates

had departed for Kodiak, we began to look round for some new object

of interest. The Doctor had frequently expressed a desire to become

more acquainted with the Sitcha Indians, and resolved on making

them a visit at their village, on the opposite side of the island,

if I would accompany him, to which I readily agreed. As these were

the very Indians who had recently been so roughly handled by the

Russians, it was considered by the Governor and other friends to be a

rather perilous adventure; but we relied a good deal on our not being

Russians, and upon the fact that I had been among them during the

previous summer from a people with whom they were on friendly terms.

Perceiving that we were bent on going, the Governor gave his consent,

and furnished us with baidarkas, Kodiak Indians, and an Indian woman

as an interpreter. The latter was a daughter of one of the principal

chiefs of the tribe we were to visit. She had lived with the Russians

five or six years, and with her as a companion we had little fear of

any other than a friendly reception.

We soon completed the preparations for our departure. We took guns,

pistols, powder, and shot, for shooting as well as for safety; rice,

tea, sugar, biscuit, dried fish, and brandy, for our food. Beside

some kitchen utensils for dressing these provisions and a small

tent to sleep in, we were provided with several ells of linen and

woollen cloth, glass beads, needles, tobacco, large fishing-hooks,

looking-glasses, and various similar trifles for presents to the

Indians. Langsdorff, the interpreter, and myself each occupied a

baidarka, and had two natives each to row.

We were three days in reaching the village, but beyond a few

Indians, with whom we encamped at night, we saw nothing of interest.

By nightfall of the third day we had nearly reached the place of

our destination; but owing to a strong wind and tide, which were

directly against us, we had the mortification of seeing the sun go

down before the whole distance was accomplished. We were now in

rather an unpleasant situation; to return was impossible, and to

land might have excited suspicion, for the fire which was necessary

as a protection from the cold would have betrayed us. We determined

at last to make our way to the settlement, notwithstanding we should

reach it in utter darkness. Scarcely was this resolution taken, when

we were observed from the land, and hailed in a loud voice, but

neither our interpreter nor our Kodiak oarsmen would reply. This

sorely provoked Langsdorff and myself, and we were on the point of

expressing our anger warmly, when a great commotion arose on shore.

Suddenly, some hundred naked Indians, armed with muskets, and holding

firebrands in their hands, thronged to the water’s edge. No sooner

had we made known who we were, and approached the shore, than we were

surrounded in a tumultuous manner by the Kaluschians, who dragged us

towards their fortress, seizing upon our effects at the same time,

whether to rob us of them or to restore them we were then ignorant.

I expected nothing but an immediate and violent death. The scene

certainly was one to inspire terror; the glare of the torches, the

gesticulations of the savages, the brandishing of the weapons, the

rough handling we received, were not calculated to inspire confidence

in men whom from the outset we had distrusted. But happily our

fears were groundless, and the demonstrations of the natives, as we

afterwards learned, were well intended offices of friendship.

We were hurried over a rather fatiguing road to the top of a high

rock, on which stood the fortress, and were immediately introduced

into the very spacious habitation of the chief Dlchaetin, the father

of our interpreter. He assigned us a place directly opposite the

entrance, where we spread a carpet, and, by the light of a very large

fire on a raised hearth in the centre of the room, were subjected to

the gaze of some hundreds of the natives. Shortly after, to our great

astonishment, our packages were brought to us from our baidarkas, not

the smallest trifle being withheld, although there were undoubtedly

many articles among them which the bearers must have coveted, and

under the cover of the night might have easily concealed. Even my

musket, pistols, and powder-horn, which in my hurry I had left

behind, were delivered to me without the slightest injury.

We had scarcely refreshed ourselves with a dish of tea and a glass of

punch, when we were invited by the eldest and most distinguished of

the chiefs, the commandant of the fortress, to come and visit him. He

received us with much kindness, and presented me with a sea-otter’s

skin, and Dr. Langsdorff with a beautiful sea-otter’s tail. Much

fatigued, and in need of rest, we returned to the habitation of our

host; but we found ourselves in too exciting a scene to permit of

sleep. While eating a very good dish of fish and rice prepared by

him, we were entertained with a lively and pleasing melody, sung by

a number of men seated round the fire, which had been piled up to a

great height. Though the night was cold and windy, the savages went

barefoot to the neighboring forest, and brought home large blocks

of wood upon their naked shoulders, and heaped them on the hearth.

It was incomprehensible how the roof, covered as it was merely with

bark, was not entirely consumed. Once it did take fire; but a boy

ran like a mouse up the side of the wall, and extinguished it. The

sparks flew out of the opening at the top, and the flames roared

as in a blacksmith’s forge; and we could not close our eyes till

their fierceness had in a measure subsided, and the danger was less

imminent, though the fire was very hot through the whole night.

On the morning of the next day we carried to the commandant from whom

we had received the presents the evening before the counter presents

due to him. At the same time, we made the proper tribute of presents

to the parents of our interpreter, the latter having given us to

understand that the sooner it was done, the greater would be their

esteem for us. To her father we gave some ells of woollen cloth, a

large knife, some fish-hooks, and some pounds of tobacco; to her

mother a shift, some needles, a small looking-glass, some ribbon,

and some glass beads. As soon as we had performed these necessary

ceremonies, we were permitted to walk about wherever we chose,

without the trouble of guides. Dr. Langsdorff even shot some birds

close to the fortress without attracting any attention.

The natives of the Northwest Coast of America are called by the

Russians Kaluschians, but this people call themselves Schitchachon,

or inhabitants of Sitcha. Expelled from Norfolk Sound, they had

fortified themselves here, upon a rock which rose perpendicularly

to the height of several hundred feet above the water’s edge. The

only possible access to it was on the northwest side, and here it

had been rendered extremely difficult by very large trunks of trees

strewn over it. The rock itself was secured against the attack of an

enemy by a double palisade, measuring from twelve to fifteen feet in

height, and from three to four in thickness. A natural wall of earth

beyond the palisading, on the side towards the sea, conceals the

habitations so effectually, that they cannot be discerned from a ship.

The houses within the fortress were placed in regular rows, and built

of thick planks, fastened to posts which formed the frame-work, and

covered at the top with bark. The entrance was at the gable end,

and was often stained with different colored earths. The interiors

of their dwellings were indescribably filthy, filled with smoke,

and perfumed with decayed fish and train-oil. The men painted their

faces, and, as well as the women, delighted in profuse ornaments;

like other savages, they were particularly pleased with glittering

trinkets, or European garments. The women on the coast had one very

strange fashion, which I think is peculiar to this part of the world.

At the age of fourteen or fifteen, they make a hole in their under

lip and insert a small piece of wood like a button. This is increased

in size as they advance in age, until it is three or four inches

long, and one or two wide. I saw one old woman, the wife of a chief,

whose lip ornament was so large, that, by a peculiar motion of her

under lip, she could almost conceal her whole face with it. You will

naturally inquire the reason of this barbarous method of adornment.

I might reply by asking the reason of some equally strange fashions

among civilized nations. But, without casting any reflections on my

countrywomen, I may be allowed to make one observation, which has

probably occurred already to my readers; and that is, that it is

utterly impossible for the fair sex of the Northwest Coast to enjoy

the luxury of a kiss.

The occupations of the Sitcha Indians, beside hunting and fishing,

appeared to be making canoes, fishing-lines and hooks, and wooden

ware. The women manufacture a kind of carpet out of the wool of wild

sheep, and are very expert in wicker-work; some of their baskets are

so closely woven as to hold water. Both sexes are expert in the use

of firearms, and are excellent judges of their quality. I could not

find that they had any organized government. Success in fishing and

in the chase constitutes the source of their wealth, and consequently

of their influence. In feuds between different families the right of

the strongest prevails, and they are only banded together against

common enemies.

Having passed two days at the Indian settlement, we set out on

our return to New Archangel. On our route we visited the chief

Schinchetaez, with whom we had passed a night on our way to Sitcha.

This man had been friendly to the Russians, and was in consequence

an outcast from his own people. He was glad to see us again, and

entertained us hospitably. We gave him a few presents, which were

thankfully received, and, had he been able, he would have given in

return. While with him we saw some Kaluschian Indians go into the sea

to bathe, when the thermometer was below freezing. They ran for some

distance over the ice, and then plunged in, and performed all manner

of antics, with the same apparent enjoyment as if it had been a warm

spring.

[Illustration: NEW ARCHANGEL OR SITCHA]

After taking leave of our host we entered our baidarkas and resumed

our journey; and in due time reached New Archangel and our

friends, without any accident or occurrence of sufficient interest to

record.

IV.

Preparations for Winter.--Winter Amusements.--Resanoff makes an

Expedition to California.--Battle between a Wolf and a Ram.--I sail

for Ochotsk in the Russisloff.

Shortly after our return from the excursion narrated in the last

chapter, our friends Schwostoff and Davidoff arrived from Kodiak with

the Juno, and brought a considerable quantity of dried fish, oil,

beans, &c., to increase our stock of winter provisions. The dried

fish was called ukler, and was prepared by splitting and taking out

the backbone of the fish, and then laying it in the sun. Thus cured,

it was eaten as a substitute for bread. The people having now a

fair allowance of provisions, the operations at the settlement went

on quite encouragingly. In the course of the month of December the

carpenter got the keel of a new vessel laid, and made good progress

in cutting the timber and sawing the plank. The two brigs, Maria

and Russisloff, were hauled upon the beach and shored up out of the

tide’s way. They furnished very good accommodations for a large

number of the workmen. The Juno remained riding at anchor in the

harbor. Watchmen were stationed along the shore, in both directions

from the fort, and shouted “All’s well,” from one end to the other,

at intervals throughout the whole night. All were working cheerfully,

and hard enough to kill anybody but Russians. The Indians made us

frequent ceremonial visits, and displayed their talent for long

speeches and for dancing. They seemed anxious to bury the hatchet,

and renew intercourse on friendly terms, which was also the wish of

the settlers. In short, everything was in good trim for the winter.

The fare for the present allowed even to the poor workmen was

tolerable, as a small portion of the cargo of the Juno was dealt out

to them; but the officers had the control of all the luxuries,--if

such they may be called; and these, together with the game and fish

that were continually brought in, supplied the Governor’s table with

an abundance of good cheer. There were seven of us who regularly

dined at it, and by invitation we frequently had ten.

By the last of the month the weather began to grow cooler; yet,

though it was December, we had little or no snow, but much rain and

fog. In the forenoon I generally took a stroll along the shore, with

my gun, to the place where the new vessel was building. One or two of

the officers usually accompanied me; and after reaching the spot we

would turn and walk the same distance, about a mile and a half, in

the opposite direction. Sometimes we carried home a little game.

January brought cold, but not severe weather. The workmen began to

flag. The poor fellows had been driven too hard, regardless of wet

and snow. They were now getting sickly, and it was found necessary to

ease off their tasks a little. The officers, on the other hand, lived

comfortably enough, and even started a new kind of entertainment.

The Russians build their log houses in a very substantial manner, of

heavy timber, and stop the cracks perfectly tight with moss. Some

of them were very large, accommodating after a fashion fifty or

sixty persons. Several such were completed just at this time, and it

occurred to us that they were well calculated for ball-rooms, and

that we could pass away the tedious hours of the night in dancing.

We made out bravely in cotillons and contra-dances, but were rather

deficient at first in female partners. Many of the under officers had

their wives with them, and we picked out some of the Kodiak women,

who were accustomed to the Russian dances, and learned the figures

easily. When dressed in their finery they appeared quite respectably.

His Excellency the Plenipotentiary was always with us on these

occasions, and would upon an emergency take the fiddle, on which he

was quite a good performer. Dr. Langsdorff and my man Parker took

turns at the bow, and with plenty of good resin for the stomach as

well as the bow, we made “a gay season” of it.

In February the weather was rather more severe than the previous

months, but by no means so cold as in the United States, latitude

42°. The harbors and inlets about the sound were free from ice. With

all our attempts to get up amusements, the time hung heavily upon

our hands, and we did little else than sleep and long for spring.

The Sitcha Indians brought in excellent fresh halibut, which they

exchanged for fish-hooks and old clothes. To me especially they were

very friendly, and came often to my lodgings, seeming to know that I

was not one of the Russians.

The waters of the neighborhood abounded with numerous and choice

varieties of the finny tribe, which could be taken at all seasons

of the year. The poor Russians might have fared better than they

did, had they been spared from their work to catch them. Labor and

exposure began to tell on them. The scurvy had killed a number of

them, and many were sick. Dr. Langsdorff frequently remonstrated in

their behalf, but to little purpose.

There had been much talk of late among the higher officers upon the

expediency of making an expedition to California, with a view to

obtaining a fresh supply of provisions, and opening, if possible,

a traffic with the Spanish Mission at San Francisco. By the first

of March this enterprise was resolved upon and well matured, and

active preparations were made to put it into immediate execution.

His Excellency, Baron von Resanoff, decided to take charge of it in

person. This arrangement gave me some uneasiness, lest he should not

return in time to fulfil his promise to proceed with me in May in

the Juno to Ochotsk. I explained to him how great the disappointment

and inconvenience would be, if my departure was delayed until late

in the season. But he silenced my complaints by assuring me that he

had ordered the brig Maria, Captain Maschin, to be ready to sail for

Ochotsk as soon as the season would permit. With this promise I was

constrained to be satisfied. By the active exertion of Lieutenants

Schwostoff and Davidoff the Juno was quickly put in sailing trim,

and weighed anchor on the 8th of March for San Francisco. I was

invited to accompany them, but declined. Deprived of my friends and

companions, I occupied myself, as best I could, in making excursions

in baidarkas about the shores and harbors.

Among the domestic animals of the village--and the number was very

limited, there being two old cows, eight or ten hogs, and as many

dogs--there were two sheep, a buck and a ewe, which I had presented

to the Governor on my first visit. The ewe in the course of the

winter had been devoured by the wolves or the bears, as it was said;

but I thought it more probable by some of the half-starved Russians.

The buck became quite a pet with the settlers. Towards spring he

began to take advantage of familiar treatment, and show many positive

signs of a pugnacious disposition, and with very little respect

for persons. As Billy and I were from the same country town, and

appeared to be alone among strangers, I always made it a point, when

I passed him, to salute him with the familiar phrase of “How are you,

Billy?” and he would seem to respond by a look of recognition. It so

happened, however, that one day, as I was coming from the Governor’s

house upon the hill, after a good substantial dinner, and had reached

the beginning of the descent where stood the sentinel with Billy

at a little distance from him, I gave him the usual greeting, and

began to go down, when, perfectly unconscious of having offended

man or beast, I received a contusion in the rear, which sent me

head-foremost down the declivity with telegraphic velocity, and

with a shock which seemed to disturb my whole stowage, even to the

very ground tier. I got up as soon as I could collect my scattered

senses, and brushed the dust out of my eyes, when looking up the hill

I saw Billy, the ram, from whom I had received the assault, making

significant demonstrations of another onslaught. I had scarcely

scrambled a little to one side before he came down again full charge.

This time I dodged him, and, not meeting the check he expected, he

went a considerable distance before he could recover himself. Still

unsatisfied with the result, he was preparing to make another bolt

up hill at me; but now, having the advantage of the ground, I was

ready to receive him. The current was this time against him, and

his headway a good deal impeded. I caught him by the neck and beat

him, and endeavored to turn him off; but as soon as I let him go,

he rushed upon me again. Finally, finding it impossible to get rid

of him, I took a stone to increase the solidity of my fist, with

which I was obliged to pound the creature till the blood ran freely.

There was still no yield in him. The sentinel, who had till how been

looking on,--to see fair play, I suppose,--seeing that I should

probably kill him, left his post and came to the rescue. Thus ended

the farcical scene of a battle between a sheep and a Wolf, in which

neither could rightfully claim the victory.

April came, and no movement was made towards getting the Maria off

the beach, preparatory to the voyage to Ochotsk. Captain Maschin

complained that he could not get men. In fact, there was so much

work to be done at the settlement, and the number of hands so much

reduced by the California expedition, that it was impossible to spare

laborers for the vessels. Moreover, many of them were sick, and among

the healthy there were no sailors; so operations in the navigation

line were suspended.

May commenced with quite pleasant and warm weather. About the 10th,

the ship Okain, Captain Jonathan Winship, arrived at the sound.

He came direct from the United States without any cargo, but for

the express purpose of obtaining Kodiak Indians and baidarkas for

a voyage to California to catch sea-otter, on the same plan I had

relinquished on the sale of my ship. He made all the necessary

arrangements, and sailed about the middle of the month.

The mild weather melted the snow very fast, and by the last of May

the frost was all out of the ground. Governor Baranoff was desirous

of having a good kitchen garden, and so, to commence the business

with a sort of flourish, we made up a pretty substantial picnic

party. A little way back from the shore we found a considerable

clearing without underbrush, and here we staked out about two acres

of land. It was good soil, deep and rich, and we all tried our hand

at the spade. The Governor setting the example, we went to work with

a good will. Soon getting tired, we adjourned to the refreshments, at

which it was thought we showed more talent than at the spade. Some

of us, they told us, got quite _blue_ by the time we had finished

our labors. This was the first ground ever broken for a garden at

New Archangel. Another diversion was taking salmon, which at this

season ran up into the creeks and inlets in great numbers. As many of

the people as could be detached from their regular occupations were

set to catching them, and curing them for winter provisions, in the

manner I have before described.

While waiting impatiently for the arrival of the Juno, I made many

excursions about the sound in my baidarka. About seven or eight miles

from the village, there was a hot-water spring which I visited.

Situated in a beautiful, romantic place, the water runs down from

the foot of a high mountain, in a small serpentine rivulet, for

several hundred yards, and empties into a broad basin, several rods

in diameter, which has a sandy bottom. The heat of the water at its

source is about 150°, and as it spreads over the basin below it cools

down to 100°. It is strongly impregnated with sulphur, and with salt

and magnesia.

To our great joy, on the 21st of June the Juno returned from

California, with all our friends and a tolerable supply of wheat,

jerked beef, English beans, &c.; but his Excellency failed to make

any arrangement for the future. The Governor of San Francisco

remonstrated against sending Russian subjects to hunt sea-otter on

the shores and in the harbors of New Albion, and prevailed upon Baron

von Resanoff to promise to put a stop to all adventures of that

nature.

I immediately applied to Resanoff to know how and when he intended

to fulfil his promise of providing me a passage to Ochotsk. It was

now the last of June, and there were no preparations in either of

the vessels for that purpose. He told me that the Juno should be got

ready as soon as the little vessel could be rigged to accompany her;

but the little vessel was yet on the stocks, and it did not appear to

me, from the rate at which the work was progressing, that she would

be in sailing order before August. In fact, I became quite alarmed,

lest the season should be so far advanced that I should be obliged

to make a winter journey across the Russian Empire. I had had some

conversation with Dr. Langsdorff about taking the brig Russisloff,

if they would allow me, and making my own way to Ochotsk. The Doctor

eagerly caught at the idea, and resolved to go with me, if I could

obtain her. I accordingly made the proposal to his Excellency, and

it was readily accepted. He offered to put as many men to work upon

the Russisloff as I needed. She was a little craft of twenty-five

tons burden, built by the Russian American Company at Bhering’s Bay,

and in construction a kind of nondescript. She was lying high and

dry upon the beach, but, with the assistance rendered, I had her

ready for sea in less than a week, well stored with a plenty of the

best provisions the place afforded. My crew consisted of seven men,

three of whom were Indians and natives of Alashka, making with Dr.

Langsdorff, my man Parker, and myself, ten in all. I am happy to say

that everything was done by the authorities to expedite my departure,

and they all seemed anxious to show me every kindness and attention

in their power. Having been furnished with the necessary papers

for my voyage, I took leave of his Excellency Baron von Resanoff,

Governor Baranoff, and my other friends, and put to sea on the 30th

of June, 1806, shaping my course for the island of Kodiak.

V.

Dull Sailing.--I touch at Kodiak and Alashka.--Take in Passengers

at Oonalashka.--No Prospect of completing my Voyage this

Season.--Determine to winter at Petropowlowsk.

Being at sea again, and on my own vessel, I had leisure for a more

deliberate view of the step I had taken, in attempting to seek

my own way to Ochotsk, in preference to waiting for the Juno. My

little craft was large and safe enough for my purpose; but I was now

convinced by her sluggish motion that it was very doubtful whether

I gained the port of my destination before it was too late in the

autumn to pursue my journey across Siberia. Our best sailing before

the wind was hardly five knots, and by the wind two and a half. We

had a voyage of 2,500 miles before us, and at a season of the year in

that water most subject to calms, light winds, and fogs.

This tract of ocean, from longitude 130° west, along the entire coast

of Alashka and through the seas of Kamtchatka and Ochotsk, was at

that time the great place of resort of the right whale. Persecuted

in all its other haunts, it had sought refuge in this northern

region, where as yet a whaleship had never made its appearance. We

were frequently surrounded by them. Sometimes they would take a

position at the windward, and come down towards us, as if they were

determined to sink us; but when they had approached within eight or

ten rods, they would dip and go under, or make a circuit round us.

Most of them were much longer than our vessel, and it would have

taken but a slight blow from one to have smashed her into a thousand

pieces.

On the 13th of July we saw the high land near the entrance of

Cook’s Inlet; and on the 17th arrived at the harbor of St. Paul, in

the island of Kodiak, after a passage of eighteen days, and which

might have been performed by an ordinary sailing craft, with the

same winds, in ten days. Here my letters of introduction made me

acquainted with Mr. Bander, the Company’s Superintendent. He received

us with great cordiality, and readily procured me a man to serve as

mate. He likewise furnished all the supplies we were in need of, and

saw that they were put on board; so that Dr. Langsdorff and myself

had little else to do than to look about and see the lions. The

village consisted of about forty houses, of various descriptions,

including a church, school-house, storehouse, and barracks. The

school-house was quite a respectable establishment, well filled with

pupils, under the especial care, as teacher, of the “Pope,”[30] or

ecclesiastic. He instructed them in reading, writing, arithmetic, and

keeping accounts. Many among them were excellent scholars in these

branches. The Doctor and myself made an excursion to an adjacent

island, where the Pope had a considerable tract of land under

cultivation, raising potatoes, cabbages, turnips, cucumbers, and

other vegetables. He also kept several milch cows, and appeared

to live in quite a farmer-like style. We concluded to pass the night

with him, and were hospitably entertained by his wife.

[Illustration: ST. PAUL IN THE ISLAND OF KODIAK]

Having taken on board some freight of skins and sea-elephant’s teeth

for Ochotsk, and a cask of brandy for the island of Oonalashka, on

the 23rd of July we took leave of our friends, Mr. Bander and the

Pope, and started again on our route. The wind was so strong from the

southeast that I found it impossible to weather the southern point

of the island, and thus to get to the westward of it. I concluded

to bear up, and pass through the Schelikoff’s Strait. This is a

channel formed by an archipelago of islands (of which Kodiak is the

principal), and the peninsula of Alashka. But by reason of light

and contrary winds, we did not get fairly into the strait until the

26th, and shortly after encountered a strong wind from the west, with

heavy squalls, which soon increased to such a severe gale, that we

were compelled to seek shelter on the Alashka shore. Here I found my

Indian sailors, who had proved good men from the beginning, to be

of the greatest service. I mentioned above that they were natives

of Alashka, and they were perfectly acquainted with the shore. They

pointed out to me a good harbor, for which I steered; and as we

rounded the point at its entrance, which was called Kudak, a baidarka

containing one man came alongside. He turned out to be the father

of one of my sailors, and they had not seen each other before for

two years. They did not appear, however, to be over-rejoiced at

this accidental meeting. They embraced each other after the Russian

custom, had a little chat together, and then went about their

business, without showing any disposition for further communication.

In the course of the night the gale increased so much that I deemed

it prudent to let go our best bow-anchor; but with the return of

light the wind abated, and the weather became quite pleasant. Doctor

Langsdorff and myself took our baidarka, and went to the village,

which was situated on the opposite side of the harbor from where we

lay. It consisted of eight or ten habitations, which looked more like

mounds of earth than houses. They contained but one room, of an oval

form, and about fifteen feet across. The earth was dug out about

three feet in depth, and raised from the surface about three feet

more, and to enter we had to crawl on our hands and knees. The light

was admitted through windows of transparent skins, as a substitute

for glass. Their quarters were certainly comfortable for winter. The

floors were covered with spruce boughs, and mats were laid over them,

which made the apartment dry and warm. An aperture was left in the

top for ventilation. The outside was covered with a luxurious growth

of grass. The occupants were principally women, with a few old men;

the young men had all gone out hunting the sea-otter, in the Russian

service. Those at home seemed to be quite happy and contented, and

were all employed in making water-proof garments from the entrails

of sea-lions, for their husbands and sweethearts. We bought of them

a number of articles of their manufacture,--curious and very neat

work,--such as pocket-books, baskets, &c.,--and paid them in tobacco

and beads.

On the 28th of July, the wind being moderate and favorable, we put to

sea again, and pursued our course to the westward along the coast of

Alashka. We made but slow progress on our voyage, and by the 9th of

August we had only reached the end of the peninsula. The same day we

passed through between the island of Oonemak and the easternmost of

the Fox Islands. On the 12th we arrived at the island of Oonalashka.

I had no cause to stop here beyond the desire of replenishing our

water-casks and stores. Owing to our tardy progress,--having as yet,

performed only one third of the distance from Kodiak to Ochotsk,--our

provisions were more than half consumed. I therefore felt myself

constrained to put in for a further supply.

The Company’s Superintendent, Lariwanoff, a gentleman highly

esteemed by them, had died a short time previous to our arrival,

leaving a widow and an only child, a daughter about eighteen years

of age. I was received by his successor with much kindness, and

with an apparent disposition to facilitate my voyage. The harbor,

Illuluk, was spacious and well sheltered on all sides. There was a

good anchorage in four or five fathoms of water, on a sand and clay

bottom, at a convenient distance from the shore. While making some

necessary repairs on my little vessel, and getting supplies aboard,

Madam Lariwanoff learned that I was bound to Ochotsk. She immediately

came, and on her knees entreated me to have compassion on her lonely

and bereaved condition, and let her and her daughter take passage

with me. Irkutsk in Siberia was her native place, and thither she was

desirous of returning after a residence on this island ten years. Her

solicitations were so earnest that I had not the heart to refuse her,

and notwithstanding our contracted accommodations, entirely unfit for

a woman’s occupation, I resolved to take her under my protection.

I went aboard, and set about making the best possible arrangements

for her comfort, gave up my bunk, enlarged it sufficiently for the

mother and child together, and partitioned off the little cabin with

a canvas screen. I immediately commenced taking on board their goods

and chattels, with which, however, they were not overburdened; but

she had been preparing to leave the island for some time, and had

accumulated a goodly stock of provisions of various kinds,--several

barrels of eggs, put up in oil, smoked geese in abundance, dried

and pickled fish of an excellent quality, and other things equally

good. Thus our fare promised to be the best the island afforded.

In the mean time the Superintendent began to make objections, and

throw difficulties in the way of the old lady’s going with me. She

might make reports which would not redound to his credit. But I had

it in my power to silence all his objections, having on board the

cask of brandy, which it was at my option to leave with him, or take

to Ochotsk. On his application for it, I demurred until he withdrew

all his opposition to the widow’s leaving, and was willing to grant

anything on the island we wished. He was a dear lover of “the ardent.”

Everything now went on smoothly, and in a few days we were ready for

sea; but adverse winds detained us, and I seized the opportunity to

take a stroll over the island with the Doctor and Superintendent.

It was totally bare of trees and shrubs, and with little or no game

but foxes. The whole value and importance of the Aleutian group

consist in the sea animals taken on their shores and bays, such as

fur-seals, walruses, sea-lions, and sea-otter; though of the latter

there were few. This is likewise the principal depot of the fisheries

of the smaller islands, and from here the furs are periodically

shipped to Ochotsk. In the course of our ramble we ascended some high

table-land with the hope of obtaining a view of the new island, which

we were informed had recently made its appearance in the Sea of

Kamtchatka, to the northwest of Oonalashka; but we were disappointed

by a thick mist’s setting in, which obscured all distant objects.

After wandering about in the numerous fox-paths, and with great

caution, to avoid the many traps set for those animals, we returned

to the village, somewhat hungry and leg-weary, and with but little

satisfaction to boast of, beyond traversing a region rendered classic

by the verse of Campbell, in the “Pleasures of Hope”:--

“Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles,

On Behring’s rocks, or Greenland’s naked isles;

Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow,

From wastes that slumber in eternal snow;

And waft, across the waves’ tumultuous roar,

The wolf’s long howl from Oonalashka’s shore.”

But, in fact, I was the only Wolf ever known upon the island.

Nevertheless, I came near verifying the poet’s language, as I

barely escaped being caught in one of those fox-traps; in which

event I should have probably howled lustily, for they were terrible

instruments.

August 16th, the wind and weather being favorable, Madame Lariwanoff,

her daughter, and man-servant, came on board, and we put to sea;

and I have every reason to believe with the fervent prayers of

every individual upon the island for God’s blessing upon their

patroness, and good speed to our little craft. The next day we saw

the new island, to which I was desirous to get near enough to send

a baidarka, particularly as the Doctor was anxious to get some

specimens of natural history; but a thick fog coming up, and having

a leading wind, we concluded to continue our voyage without loss of

time. On the 18th we lost sight of the islands, and, with a light

wind and rain, slowly pursued our course to the westward, across the

Sea of Kamtchatka, to the north of the Aleutian group; but such

was our tardy progress, that by the 28th we had only reached the

neighborhood of Atter, the most western island. Then for ten days in

succession we had calms, fogs, and light adverse winds. Our patience

was sorely tried, but the monotony of our life was alleviated by the

numerous and great variety of sea-birds, which were constantly flying

round us, and furnished endless sport with the musket. And here I

feel bound to record the marvellous skill, or good luck, of the

Doctor, as he killed a whole flock of four wild geese at one shot;

and, what was still better, we got out our baidarka, and took them

all aboard.

Still creeping along with the same dull winds and disagreeable

weather, on the 3d of September we found ourselves in latitude 52°

north, and longitude 170° east, which placed us a considerable

distance southwest of Atter. We began to entertain fears lest we

should not reach the port of our destination in season; but on the

6th, for the first time since leaving Oonalashka, we took a strong

northeast gale, which carried us into the vicinity of the Kurile

Islands. Our hopes began to revive, and the prospect of reaching

Ochotsk to brighten; but again were we doomed to disappointment. A

severe blow from the southeast obliged us to heave to, with a heavy

sea running; and we drifted back over the course we had just sailed,

at the rate of two miles an hour. A considerable quantity of the

provisions for the sailors consisted of whale’s blubber, which was

hanging on our quarter, and was of course well soaked with oil.

This we found to be a great advantage, for it made a “slick” to the

windward for nearly a mile, and prevented the sea from breaking over

us.

Strong westerly winds continued to baffle us until the 14th, when,

having no hope of reaching Ochotsk before the autumn was so far

spent that we should be obliged to make a winter’s journey across

Siberia, we concluded to alter our course, and sail for the harbor

of St. Peter and St. Paul, or Petropowlowsk, in Kamtchatka. We made

port on the 22d, and anchored abreast the village. We were kindly

and hospitably received by the Company’s Superintendent, as well

as by the officers of the military department, and especially by

Major Antony Ivanah and lady, who showed me many civilities. Madam

Lariwanoff and daughter were taken in charge by the Superintendent,

and provided with comfortable quarters. The Doctor and myself at once

took temporary lodgings on the shore, until we could make permanent

arrangements for the winter. Having discharged all the cargo, and

dismantled our little craft, we hauled her up on the beach at the

first spring tide. Provisions and accommodations were provided at the

settlement for the crew as well as ourselves; and in fact the people

seemed desirous to do everything in their power to render our stay

amongst them as comfortable and agreeable as the nature of the place

would admit.