CHAPTER V

_The Cathedral_

'How reverend is the face of this tall pile,

Whose ancient pillars rear their marble heads

To bear aloft its arched and ponderous roof,

By its own weight made steadfast and immovable,

Looking tranquillity.'--WILLIAM CONGREVE.

'Let us build such a huge and splendid temple that succeeding

generations of men will say that we were mad.' So said the pious

originators of Seville Cathedral, in the year 1401. After one hundred

years, the temple was still unfinished, and to this day masons are at

work upon the dome.

When San Fernando captured the city of Seville from the Moors, and made

it his capital, the Mosque, which stood on the site of the Cathedral,

was consecrated to the service of the Christian faith. It was used for

Catholic worship until its disrepair became a reproach. Then the Chapter

decided to erect a worthier fane, one which would astonish posterity.

The Cathedral should be huge and magnificent, rivalling in its area all

the other cathedrals of Spain. Toledo Cathedral is 'rich'; Salamanca,

'strong'; León, 'beautiful.' The Cathedral of Seville is called the

'great.'

In point of size the edifice ranks third among the cathedrals of Europe.

It is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, larger than Cologne and

Milan. The superficial areas of the great cathedrals are as follows:--

St. Peter's 230,000 feet square

Córdova 160,000

Seville 125,000

Milan 110,000

St. Paul's 84,000

In 1511, five years after the practical completion of the building, the

dome gave way. It was re-erected by Juan Gil de Hontañon, an architect

who subsequently designed the new Cathedral of Salamanca (1513). The

original architects are supposed to have been of German nationality.[B]

Earthquake shocks endangered a part of the structure at a later date,

and Casanova, who restored the Giralda Tower, superintended the

renovation, which was begun in 1882. Six years after Casanova's

restoration, the dome again collapsed, and from that time until to-day

the work of repair has proceeded.

Théophile Gautier, writing of this splendid pile, states:

'The most extravagant and most monstrously prodigious Hindoo pagodas are

not to be mentioned in the same century as the Cathedral of Seville. It

is a mountain scooped out, a valley turned topsy-turvy; Notre Dame at

Paris might walk erect in the middle nave, which is of frightful height;

pillars as large round as towers, and which appear so slender that they

make you shudder, rise out of the ground or descend from the vaulted

roof, like stalactites in a giant's grotto.'

In Caveda's description of the Cathedral, we read: 'The general effect

is truly majestic. The open-work parapets which crown the roofs; the

graceful lanterns of the eight winding stairs that ascend in the

corners to the vaults and galleries; the flying buttresses that spring

lightly from aisle to nave, as the jets of a cascade from cliff to

cliff; the slender pinnacles that cap them, the proportions of the arms

of the transept and of the buttresses supporting the side walls; the

large pointed windows that open between them, one above another, just as

the aisles and chapels to which they belong rise over each other; the

pointed portals and entrances--all these combine in an almost miraculous

manner, although these are lacking the wealth of detail, the airy grace,

and the delicate elegance that characterise the cathedrals of León and

Burgos.'

[Illustration: Pinnacle of the Cathedral]

It was during the long and exhausting endeavours of the Castilian Kings

to expel the Moors from Spain, that gold and treasure was paid into the

coffers of the Chapter for the cost of erecting the marvellous

Cathedral of Seville. Bishops, deans and clergy forfeited one half of

their stipends to meet the heavy charges of architects, artists, stained

glass designers, masons, carvers, and innumerable craftsmen and

labourers. An army of artists and mechanics was employed upon the vast

work. During the century of construction, the Catholic kings who resided

in the Alcázar, showed great interest in the undertaking, while the

noble families subscribed liberally towards the cost, and the poor gave

of their slender store of pesetas.

The exterior of the Cathedral is a type of the finest Spanish Gothic

architecture, though the incorporated Giralda Tower is distinctly

Morisco, and much older in style. Within the consecrated precincts, we

may see traces of the _Mudéjar_ handicraftsmen amid early Gothic and

Renaissance architectural details.

The Cathedral consecrated ground contains within its confines the

Moorish Patio de los Naranjas, the high minaret, the Columbus Library,

offices of the Chapter, and the Church of the Sagrario. There are nine

doors to the Cathedral proper, and a gateway with doors, leading to the

Patio de los Naranjas, or Court of the Oranges.

THE EXTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL.

From the Calle del Gran Capitan, on the west side of the Cathedral, one

may gain a conception of the extent and the magnificence of the

building. It is best to begin our inspection of the doors from this

side. Here we shall find three entrances, or _puertas_. The chief door

is in the centre. It is elaborately decorated, and is in fine

preservation. Thirty-two figures stand in niches. Over the door is a

beautiful relief of the Assumption by Ricardo Bellver.

[Illustration: Puerta Mayor.

THE CENTRAL DOOR OF THE CATHEDRAL]

Puerta del Bautismo, or San Juan, is embellished with sculptures by

Pedro Millan, which deserve careful inspection. The third doorway is the

Puerta del Nacimiento, or San Miguel. This is also adorned by the

sculpture of Pedro Millan. The upper part of the Cathedral viewed from

this side is not of much beauty. It is modern, dating from 1827.

[Illustration: Pinnacle of the Cathedral]

At the south side of the Cathedral is the Puerta de San Cristóbal, or de

la Lonja, added by Casanova in 1887. As we make the circuit of the

edifice, we shall see the turrets and numerous pinnacles of the roof.

The effect is impressive and bewildering. Centuries of labour are here

represented in noble form and beauty of outline. The flying buttresses

are especially graceful and the great dome is majestic in its

proportions. Cean Bermudez compares the Cathedral with 'a high-pooped

and beflagged ship, rising over the sea with harmonious grouping of

sails, pennons and banners.'

In the east façade are the Puerta de los Campanillas and the Puerta de

los Palos. These doors are magnificently decorated with sculptures by

Lope Marin, executed in the year 1548. There are three entrances on the

north side. That leading from the Court of the Oranges is named the

Puerta del Lagarto, from the stuffed crocodile which hangs from the

ceiling. The Puerta de los Naranjas is in the centre of the court. This

door is kept closed except on days of festival. The third door is the

unfinished one bearing the name of the Puerta del Sagrario.

* * * * *

As we survey this immense monument of the Christian faith, we are led to

muse upon the power of the early Catholic Church in Spain. It was no

half-hearted belief that urged men of all ranks of society to deny

themselves in contributing to the huge outlay that went to the planning,

erection and decoration of this mighty Cathedral.

The dictates of the Chapter ruled the councils of the State and the

conferences of kings and courtiers. When the throne lost power, the

bishop's chair gained in authority. In the reign of Philip III. the

Cathedral of Seville had no less than one hundred clergy on its staff.

Dunham, in his _History of Spain_, states that 'half a dozen could

assuredly have been sufficient for the public offices of devotion.' But

there was no question of restricting the number of ministers and

confessors in these days of perfervid devotion. It was considered

heretical to even speak of stinting the wealth that was freely poured

into the coffers of the hierarchy. To this devotion and liberality we

owe the great treasure-house of art beneath whose broad shadow we stand.

The painters, sculptors and craftsmen were under the patronage of the

Church; they could not have subsisted without such patronage. And in

most cases they gave their services gladly, for their heart was in their

labours, and devotion inspired them. Few desired any other kind of

employment; the highest service was that of holy religion.

A great faith, such as the Romish, inspires its devotees to the building

of resplendent temples. The Christians would not merely imitate the

Moors in the beauty and richness of their churches. They pledged

themselves to excel the magnificence of the _mezquitas_, and to show

mankind that God is honoured most devoutly by those who spare neither

wealth nor industry in the setting up of fanes dedicated to His worship.

We cannot grasp the Spanish character until we realise that its keynote

in the past was profound piety and deep loyalty towards the Church and

the Crown. The cathedrals of Spain are testimony to this devotion to the

Christian creed. They are solemn historic memorials of faith.

Worshippers in the Seville Cathedral are reverential; there is no

apparent insincerity in their responses and genuflexions. In Italy and

France there is a less manifest reverence during divine services. But

the Spanish temperament has remained religious through all the stress of

heretical days and the changing fortunes of its dynasties. It is not

only the women who are devout, for many men are present at the

celebrations in the cathedrals and churches. Very imposing are these

Spanish services in the half-light of the _capillas_:

'Dim burn the lamps like lights on vaporous seas;

Drowsed are the voices of droned litanies;

Blurred as in dreams the face of priest and friar.'

The organ music is often superb, and the choristers are highly trained.

Besides the organ, reed and string instruments are used to accompany the

singing during important festivals. The smoke of incense mounts in the

lofty naves and aisles; the altars glow with candle-lights, and the

sweet, rich voices of the boys hover under the vaulted roofs. Rich and

poor alike sit or stand upon the flagged floors. The preachers are often

very eloquent, and they preach in the purest form of the Castilian

language.

The dim light of the interior of the Cathedral is a hindrance to the

full enjoyment of the very numerous works of art that adorn the chapels.

This gloom is characteristic of the Spanish cathedrals and churches. The

best time in the day to inspect the pictures in Seville Cathedral is

before eight in the morning. It is an early hour; but the light is then

fairly good, and the chapels are usually quiet. I advise the visitor to

spend several hours in the Cathedral, if he desires to study the inner

architecture, carvings, pictures and statues. A mere ramble through the

naves and a peep into one or two of the _capillas_ will not suffice. It

is well to select a portion of the interior for each day's inspection.

Shun the loafers who offer their services as guides. They have no

knowledge of the art treasures, and they possess a faculty of invention.

I trust that my description will assist the stranger in his tour of the

Cathedral. The chief objects of art are indicated, or briefly described,

in the remaining part of this chapter. The account is not to be taken as

exhaustive. A thorough treatise on the architecture of the building

alone would require more space than I have at my command, and it might

prove somewhat tedious to the reader who is not acquainted with the

technical terminology of architecture.

THE INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL.

Enter by the Puerta del Lagarto, in the Patio de los Naranjas. One's

first impression when within the Cathedral is that of its magnitude and

the 'frightful height,' which struck Théophile Gautier. The length,

exclusive of the Capilla Real, is three hundred and eighty feet; the

width is two hundred and fifty feet. The nave is one hundred and

thirty-two feet in height, and over fifty feet in width.

There is great dignity in the lofty columns, and a sense of vastness

possesses us as we gaze upwards. The floor is of fine marble. It was

laid in the years 1787 to 1795.

_The Capilla de los Evangelistas_ is the first chapel near to the

_puerta_. It has a fine altar piece in nine parts, the work of Hernando

de Sturmio, containing a picture of the ancient Giralda. The paintings

are on panel, and the brown tints are characteristic of the early

Sevillian School of Art.

By the Puerta de los Naranjas, the great door on this side of the

Cathedral, there are two altars. One is the Altar de la Asunción, and

the other is dedicated to La Virgen de Belén. The Assumption picture as

executed by Carlo Maratta. The face of the Virgin is clear, but somewhat

dark in tone, and the light is not favourable for viewing the picture.

On the other side of the doorway the light is better. The altar is

adorned by a painting of the Virgin, from the brush of the famous Alonso

Cano. It is a rather conventional presentment of Holy Mother, but the

features are not without beauty. On the whole, the painting is not

equal in merit to most of the works of the last Andalusian master. The

hands and feet of the figure are finished with the care characteristic

of Cano's art.

Alonso Cano has been called the 'Michelangelo of Spain.' He studied in

Seville under Pacheco and Juan de Castillo, and painted pictures for

some of the religious houses. Cano was also a sculptor and architect. He

was forced to leave the city after wounding an antagonist in a duel. In

1651 he was appointed a Canon of Granada, and during his residence in

the old Moorish city, Cano painted works for the churches. The artist

was of an irritable disposition; but he spent the latter part of his

life in religious exercises, and gave freely to the poor. He died in

poverty, in 1667, and received alms from the Church.

Writing of Alonso Cano, in his _Spanish and French Painters_, Mr Gerard

W. Smith says: 'Although he was never in Italy, his fine feeling for

form, and the natural charm and simplicity of his composition, suggest

the study of the antique, while in painting, the richness and variety of

his colouring could hardly be surpassed.'

_The Capilla de San Francisco_ is next to the altar of Alonso Cano. Here

we may try to see a painting of the Glorification of St. Francis by

Herrera el Mozo, and one of the Virgin and San Ildefonso, by Juan Valdés

Leal. Herrera's picture is not of value. He was a much less capable

artist than his father, Francisco Herrera el Viejo (the elder), from

whose roof the mozo ran away to Italy. Upon his return to Seville, the

young man was so conceited and affected in his painting that he failed

to produce any fine work. The Glorification of St. Francis and the

picture by Leal can be scarcely seen in the sombre shadows of the

chapel.

[Illustration: Interior of the cathedral]

_The Capilla de Santiago_ adjoins the last chapel. There are two

paintings here; one by Juan de las Roelas of St. James (Santiago) and

one of St. Lawrence (San Lorenzo) by Valdés Leal. Roelas was painting in

Seville at the time of Herrera the Elder. He is said to have studied art

in Venice. The finest work of this artist is to be seen in the Church of

San Isidoro.[C] In the Capilla de Santiago there is a dilapidated tomb

of Archbishop Gonzalo de Mena, who died in 1401.

_The Capilla de Escalas_ contains two pictures of note by Luca Giordano,

strong in character, drawing, and colour. Over the tomb of Bishop

Baltasar del Rio, who died in 1540, is an altar relief of the Day of

Pentecost by a Genoese artist.

_The Capilla del Bautisterio_ has one of Murillo's finest works,

representing St. Anthony of Padua's Vision of the Child Jesus. Part of

this picture was cut out and stolen in 1874. It was traced to New York,

and restored to the Cathedral a few months later. The picture was

originally painted for the Capuchin Convent in 1656, and afterwards came

into the possession of the Chapter. A Baptism of Christ, also the work

of Murillo, is above this painting. In this chapel is the font of holy

oil, which is consecrated in Holy Week. This _pila_, or monument, was

made by Antonio Florentin in 1545-1546. It is used for the exposition of

the Host, and is exhibited near the Puerta Mayor in Easter Week.

Originally the _pila_ was a tall construction of three storeys on

columns, with a large cross. Between the columns were coloured figures

of saints. Some of the effigies were modelled in clay, and others were

carved from wood. They were beautifully designed. In 1624 the building

was altered and spoiled by the addition of another storey of the

composite order. 'Its effect in the midnight service is superb,' writes

Sir Stirling Maxwell, 'when blazing with church plate and myriads of

waxen tapers it seems a mountain of light, of which the silver crest is

lost in the impenetrable gloom of the vaults above.'

On the west side of the Cathedral, which we have now reached, is the

Altar de la Visitación, with pictures by Marmolejo and Jerónimo

Hernandez. By the principal door is another altar, that of Nuestra

Señora del Consuelo, with a painting by one of Murillo's pupils, Alonso

Miguel de Tobar. Close to the Puerta del Nacimiento we shall find some

fine works by Luis de Vargas, the celebrated fresco artist. There are

three _capillas_ on this side of the building, called the Capilla de los

Jácomes, the Capilla de San Leandro, and the Capilla de San Isidoro.

They may be passed by, as they contain no important works of art.

At the Puerta del Nacimiento we reach the south aisle, and come to

_The Capilla de San Laureano_, with a tomb of Archbishop Alonso de Exea,

who died in 1417.

_The Capilla de Santa Ana_ is the next chapel on the south side. Here

there is an interesting old altar, with several pictures painted in the

early part of the fifteenth century.

_The Capilla de San José_ contains a notable work by Juan Valdés Leal,

the Marriage of the Virgin, and a poor picture by Antolinez.

_The Capilla de San Hermenegildo_ is noteworthy for the image of the

saint by Montañez, and the tomb of Archbishop Juan de Cervantes by

Lorenzo de Bretaña. The marble of the tomb is much worn.

_The Capilla de la Antigua_ is a larger chapel, with fourteenth-century

decorations of the altar. There is also a fine monument to Cardinal

Mendoza, executed in 1509 by the Italian Miguel. The figures are very

quaint. Adjoining this chapel is the Altar de la Gamba, with the

Generacion by Luis de Vargas, a famous picture described in the art

chapters of this book. The immense painting opposite is St. Christopher,

by Mateo Perez de Alesio, painted in 1584.

For painting the San Cristobal Alesio received four thousand ducats. The

saint is quaintly clad in hose, and the figure is gigantic. Sir Stirling

Maxwell draws attention to the fine colouring of the parrot seen in the

distance. Mateo de Alesio, who was an Italian by birth, died in the year

1600.

Passing through the _Capilla de los Dolores_, which is unimportant, we

come to the splendid _Sacristía de los Cálices_, built by Riaño and

Gainza in the years from 1530 to 1537. Diego de Riaño, sculptor and

designer, was often employed by the Cathedral authorities. He delighted

in lavish and fantastic embellishment, and introduced the Italian

methods of ornamentation. Martin Gainza was of the same school. He was

an architect and sculptor of great repute, and he assisted Riaño in much

of his work.

The Crucifix is the work of Montañez. It was removed from the Cartuja

Convent. Murillo's _Angel de la Guarda_, or Guardian Angel, is in this

sacristy. This picture was presented to the Cathedral by the Capuchins

in 1814. It is one of the best of Murillo's works. Borrow much admired

the _Guarda_, and Sir Stirling Maxwell describes the diaphanous drapery

of the child's dress in terms of praise. The angel holds a child by the

hand, and points to heaven. Notice the rich colouring of purple and

yellow in the vesture of the angel.

On the same wall are the _Ecce Homo_, the Virgin, and St. John, the work

of Morales; St. Dorothy by Murillo; a painting of Fernando de Contreras

by Luis de Vargas; Pietà and Death of the Virgin by a German artist, and

a picture by Juan Nuñez of the fifteenth century.

Goya's fine painting of St. Justa and St. Rufina is here. Elsewhere in

this book I have told the legend of these guardian saints of the

Giralda. Goya's conception of them is unconventional, and unlike that of

Murillo, who represents the two maidens with halos around their heads.

We have the figures of two charming potter-girls in Goya's picture, two

creatures of earth, lovely, but not ethereal. The Holy Trinity of 'El

Greco' (the Greek) is one of the interesting examples of this great

Toledan artist's work. Zurbaran is represented in the Sacristía by his

painting of St. John.

_The Sacristía Mayor_ is in the Renaissance style. It was built by the

designers of the Sacristía de los Cálices about the year 1532. Campaña's

admirable Descent from the Cross is here, but the picture has been

indifferently restored. There is also a work of Murillo, SS. Leandro and

Isidoro.

The Cathedral Treasury is in this sacristy. One of the principal objects

of interest is the splendid _custodia_, used for carrying the Host. It

is the work of Juan d'Arphe, a celebrated gold-worker, who was born in

Avila in 1535. In 1564 he constructed the _custodia_ of that city, and

in 1580 began a work of a similar character for Seville Cathedral. Many

designs were submitted for the inspection of the Chapter, but Juan

d'Arphe's was chosen as one unequalled in Spain. The _custodia_ is about

twelve feet high, round in form, with four storeys, each one supported

by twenty-four columns. Some of the columns are Ionic; the rest are

Corinthian and composite in design. Between the columns are a number of

statuettes, and the base and cornices are profusely adorned with

bas-reliefs. In the first storey there was originally seated a figure of

Faith, but it was changed in 1668 for one of the Virgin of the

Conception, when the _custodia_ was restored by Juan Segura. The second

storey is the repository of the Host, and in the third and fourth

storeys are figures of the Church Triumphant and the Holy Trinity.

Crowning the edifice was a small dome and cross, which was replaced in

1668 by a statue of the Faith. The _custodia_ is of beautiful and simple

design.

The _Tablas Alfonsinas_, a reliquary, given to the Church in 1274 by

Alfonso el Sabio, are in the Treasury. Crosses, plate and sacerdotal

vestments are among the treasures. The canonical robes date from the

fourteenth century. The keys of Seville, yielded to Fernando el Santo on

the day of conquest, are also shown here.

_The Capilla del Mariscal_ adjoins the Sacristía Mayor. In this chapel

is the great altar-piece of Pedro Campaña, restored in 1880. The work is

in ten parts, representing scenes in the life of Christ, and containing

portraits of Marshal Pedro Caballero and his family.

_The Sala Capitular_ was the work of Riaño and Gainza. It was begun in

1530 and finished in 1582. The plateresque decorations are very

beautiful. Note the fine ceiling, the marble medallions, and the

pavement. Murillo's Conception is here, and the Four Virtues of Pablo de

Céspedes. There is a picture of San Fernando by Pacheco, the

father-in-law and instructor of Velazquez. The ovals between the windows

were the work of Murillo. This _sala_ is close to the Puerta de los

Campanillas, and beyond this entrance, on the east side of the

Cathedral, is

_The Capilla de la Concepción Grande_, containing a monument to

Cardinal Cienfuego, a modern work. The other small chapel on this side

is that known as

_The Capilla de San Pedro_. Here are nine pictures by Zurbaran, well

worthy of notice, and a tomb of Archbishop Diego Deza, restored in 1893.

_The Capilla Real_ is between the two smaller chapels of the east end.

In design this chapel is Renaissance. The decorations are luxuriant and

there is a high dome. Gainza began to build the chapel in 1541, and his

work was carried on by Hernan Ruiz, who planned the choir of Córdova

Cathedral, and afterwards by Juan de Maeda.

On the chief altar is a figure of the Virgin of the Kings, dating from

the thirteenth century. It was presented to San Fernando by St. Louis of

France. The fair hair is real; the crown that adorned the head was

stolen in 1873. On each side of the doorway are tombs. One is that of

Alfonso el Sabio, and the other is the tomb of his mother.

The shrine of the adored San Fernando is in front of an altar. In the

Panteón are the coffins of Pedro el Cruel, his mistress Maria de

Padilla, the Princes Fadrique, Alonso and Pedro, and others. Over San

Fernando's coffin is the ivory figure of the Virgin of Battles, which

the King carried upon his saddle when he went to the wars. The monarch's

pennant and sword are also displayed.

Murillo's Mater Dolorosa is in the sacristy of this _capilla_. There are

portraits of St. Ignatius and St. Francis Xavier, by Pacheco.

In the later styles of the Capilla Real we may see examples of the

Grotesque, or _Estilo Monstruoso_, with which the buildings of Seville

abound. Diego de Riaño's work in the Ayuntamiento, or City Hall, is full

of instances of this development of fanciful design and bizarre effect.

Gainza, the collaborator of Riaño, is responsible for the articulations

and curious, lavish adornment of the Royal Chapel of the Cathedral. The

sacristy of the _capilla_ was built and decorated by Gainza after plans

by Riaño. We may now inspect the stained-glass windows, in which we

shall find the influence of Italian artists. It must be noted that art

in Spain has been profoundly influenced by Italy. Michelangelo is

reverenced by Spanish artists. Many of the early Spanish painters went

to Italy to study, and brought back with them new ideas and fresh

methods of painting. 'Spanish artists,' writes Professor Carl Justi,

'did their best to Italianize themselves in the studios of Roman and

Florentine masters.'

Cristobal Micer Aleman was the first to introduce the art of staining

glass into Seville. Until 1504 stained glass windows had not been seen

in the city, and Aleman was the designer of the first painted window of

the Cathedral. Sir Stirling Maxwell states that in 1538 the Church paid

Arnao of Flanders, Carlos of Bruges, and other artists the sum of ninety

thousand ducats for staining the windows of Seville Cathedral. The work

was not completed until twenty years later. The chief window pictures

are the Ascension, Jesus and Mary Magdalen, the Awakening of Lazarus,

and the Entry into Jerusalem. The Resurrection is the work of Carlos,

and other pictures are by the two brothers Arnao.

The isolated _Capilla Mayor_ has an altar-piece of wood, and a silver

image of the Virgin by Alfaro. The painted scenes are from the

Scriptures. Crowning the retablo are a crucifix and large statues of the

Virgin and St. John. Dancart, the designer of the retablo, was of the

Flemish school of decorative carvers. The work was begun about 1482 and

finished in 1526.

Between the _Coro_ (choir) and the Chief Chapel an enormous candelabrum

is displayed during Semana Santa, or Holy Week. It is called the

Tenebrario, and it was constructed by Bartolomé Morel, a

sixteenth-century sculptor. The structure is twenty-six feet high, and

it is ornamented with several small images. During the imposing

celebrations of Semana Santa, the candelabrum is lit by thirteen

candles. Twelve of these lights represent the apostles who deserted

their Master; the thirteenth candle stands for the Virgin, and when the

twelve have been extinguished, the thirteenth still burns as a symbol of

Mary's fealty to the Saviour.

_The Coro_ was much injured by the collapse of the dome. Two grand

organs were destroyed at this time. One of the most interesting objects

preserved in the choir is the facistol, or choristers' desk, of

Bartolomé Morel, adorned with highly-finished carvings. The choir stalls

were decorated by Nufro Sanchez, a sculptor of the fifteenth century,

whose work suggests German influence. They are beautiful examples of

carving.

_The Coro_ is entered by either of the two doors of the front or

_Trascoro_. There is a handsome marble façade; a painting of the Virgin

by an unknown hand, and a picture said to be from the brush of Francisco

Pacheco, the artist, author and inquisitor. The white marble frontage is

adorned with bas-reliefs of the Genoese school, exhibiting fine feeling.

Italian influence is manifest in the picture of the Holy Mother, which

is highly decorative in style.

Close to the _Coro_, near the chief entrance on that side of the

Cathedral, is the tomb of Fernando Colón, son of Cristobal Colón

(Columbus). The slab is engraved with pictures of the discoverer's

vessels. An inscription runs: '_Á Castilla y á León mundo nuebo dié

Colon:_' _i.e._, 'To Castile and León Columbus gave the New World.'

The student of architecture and painting will find ample examples of

varied styles of art in this great repository of sculpture, frescoes and

panel pictures. He will be able to trace the development of

architectural design from the fifteenth to the nineteenth century, both

in the exterior and interior of the immense Cathedral. The art of the

_Mudéjar_, the Fleming, the Italian, the German and the Spaniard are

here represented in masonry, decoration, stained glass, and upon canvas.

Wandering designers and craftsmen of the Middle Ages looked upon Spain

as a land of plenty. They came from Flanders, Italy and Genoa, and found

favour with the wealthy Chapter of Seville. The artists employed to

adorn the Cathedral range from Juan Sanchez de Castro, 'the morning star

of Andalusia,' in 1454, to Francisco Goya, the last great painter of

Spain.

Many of the so-called Spanish school of artists were aliens who settled

in the country. Pedro Campaña was, for example, a native of Brussels.

For twenty years he studied in Italy, and his Purification of the Virgin

shows the Italian influence. Sturmio was probably a German named Sturm.

Doménico Theotocópuli, called '_El Greco_,' was a Greek. Mateo Perez de

Alesio was an Italian, who lived in Seville, and died at Rome in 1600.

Luis de Vargas, the painter of the Nativity picture in the Cathedral,

whose fresco work is to be seen elsewhere in the city, was a student of

the Italian method. Vargas was a man of profound piety. He was born in

Seville in 1502. After his death, scourges used for self-inflicted

penance were found in his room, and by his bed was a coffin in which

the ascetic painter used to lie in order to meditate seriously upon

life.

The religious devotion of Luis de Vargas is exhibited in the spirit of

his work. This reverential treatment of sacred subjects is

characteristic of all the Sevillian painters. In their art they

worshipped. Martinez Montañez, or Montañes, the sculptor, was a zealous

Catholic. In his coloured statues we perceive a melancholy reflection of

his sombre mind, a pathos expressing itself in realistic conceptions of

a suffering Christ and a sorrowful St. Francis Xavier. These tinted

statues appeal powerfully to the imagination of the Sevillian populace.

Many of the images were made for the solemn processions of Semana Santa.

Among the artists employed in adorning the Cathedral there was not one

more devoted to the Church than Pacheco. He was censor of art for the

Inquisition, and in his writings we find precise counsels upon the

fitting method of painting sacred pictures. To Pacheco the faith was of

far greater moment than art. He was a close friend of Montañez, whose

statues he sometimes coloured.

_The Sagrario_ adjoins the Cathedral, and may be entered from the Court

of the Oranges. The building serves as a parish church, and occupies the

ground of the old _Sagrario_. It was begun in 1618 by Miguel Zumárraga,

and completed in 1662 by Lorenzo Fernandez. The vaulted roof is

remarkable. Pedro Roldan painted the retablo, which was formerly in the

Francisan Convent. The convent stood in the Plaza de San Fernando, or

Plaza Nueva, as it is sometimes called. Roldan was a contemporary and

follower of Montañez. There is an important image of St. Clement by

Pedro Duque Cornejo. The statue of the Virgin is the work of the devout

Martinez Montañez.

Beneath the church is the vault of the Archbishops of Seville. The

terra-cotta altar is exceedingly decorative. In the sacristy there are

some splendid _azulejos_, which formed part of the old Morisco mosque.

The Story of Seville · 第 5 / 15 章