On the Platte--A False Alarm--The Cheyennes--Fremont's Account of his
Buffalo Hunt--Division of the Party--Fremont's Journey up the South
Fork--The Band of Indians--Arrival at St. Vrain's Fort--The Journey to
Fort Laramie.
Fremont and his party, after traveling something over three hundred
miles from the mouth of the Kansas reached the Platte river, where they
encamped in a charming place near Grand Island. The country was most
beautiful, though they suffered somewhat from the violent storms which
frequently broke over them.
The noon halt was made and all were lounging about the camp, when one
of the men on guard called an alarm. Everybody sprang to his feet and
grasped his rifle, expecting an attack from Indians. A strange wild
looking company were seen approaching, but, as they came closer, they
were discovered to be white men. They were a striking sight, numbering
fourteen, in the most ragged and woebegone condition imaginable. They
had been on a trapping expedition, but having met with nothing but
disasters from the beginning, were now straggling back to St. Louis on
foot.
The explorers proceeded at a leisurely pace that day and having gone
into camp, observed three Indians drawing near, one of whom was a boy
about a dozen years of age. They were Cheyennes that had been out
among the Pawnees to steal horses, but having met with no success, were
returning home. Catching sight of the white men, they unhesitatingly
entered camp, confident of being treated well, as of course proved to be
the case. After supper one of the warriors drew a rude but correct map
of the country around them, and gave it to Fremont.
On the first of July, while riding over a delightful prairie country,
on the right bank of the river, a herd of buffaloes, numbering nearly
a thousand, came up from the water and began slowly crossing the plain,
cropping the grass as they went. As the prairie was three miles broad
only, a fine opportunity was given the hunters to charge before the
animals could scatter among the hills.
The fleetest horses were quickly saddled and Carson, Fremont, and
Maxwell prepared for the chase. By that time the herd was a half mile
away and they did not notice the hunters until they were within three
hundred yards. Then followed an agitation of the animals, quickly
followed by their precipitate flight. The horses dashed after them. A
crowd of bulls brought up the rear, they having stationed themselves
there to defend the females. Every once in a while they would whirl
about and stare, snorting at the horsemen, as if they had made up their
minds to fight; but when the hunters came nigher, they turned about and
plunged after the herd. Describing the exciting incident, Fremont wrote;
"In a few moments, during which we had been quickening our pace, we were
going over the ground like a hurricane. When at about thirty yards we
gave the usual shout and broke into the herd. We entered on the side,
the mass giving away in every direction in their heedless course. Many
of the bulls, less fleet than the cows, paying no heed to the ground,
and occupied solely with the hunters, were precipitated to the earth
with great force, rolling over and over with the violence of the shock,
and hardly distinguishable in the dust. We separated, on entering, each
singling out his game.
"My horse was a trained hunter, famous in the west under the name of
Proveau, and with his eyes flashing and the foam flying from his mouth,
he sprang on after the cow like a tiger. In a few moments he brought me
alongside of her. Rising in the stirrups, I fired, at the distance of
a yard, the ball entering at the termination of the long hair, passing
near the heart. She fell headlong at the report of the gun. Checking my
horse, I looked around for my companions.
"At a little distance Kit was on the ground engaged in tying his horse
to the horns of a cow, which he was preparing to cut up. Among the
scattered band at some distance, I caught a glimpse of Maxwell. While
I was looking, a light wreath of white smoke curled away from his gun,
from which I was too far to hear the report. Nearer, and between me and
the hills, toward which they were directing their course, was the body
of the herd. Giving my horse the rein, we dashed after them. A thick
cloud of dust hung upon their rear, which filled my mouth and eyes and
nearly smothered me. In the midst of this I could see nothing, and
the buffaloes were not distinguishable until within thirty feet. They
crowded together more densely still, as I came upon them, and rushed
along in such a compact body that I could not obtain an entrance, the
horse almost leaping upon them.
"In a few moments the mass divided to the right and left, the horns
clattering with a noise heard above everything else, and my horse darted
into the opening. Five or six bulls charged on us as we dashed along the
line, but were left far behind. Singling out a cow, I gave her my fire
but struck too high. She gave a tremendous leap and scoured on swifter
than before. I reined up my horse, and the band swept on like a torrent,
and left the place quiet and clear. Our chase had led us into dangerous
ground. A prairie dog village, so thickly settled that there were three
or four holes in twenty yards square, occupied the whole bottom for
nearly two miles in length."
The stirring buffalo hunt ended, the company advanced over the prairie
for more than twenty miles, and encamped on the banks of a stream, where
they enjoyed a fine feast on choice bison steaks. While they were thus
employed, the wolves were attracted thither by the smell of broiling
meat and prowled around camp, licking their chops, impatient for the
time when they would be permitted to gorge themselves upon what should
be left.
For several days there was little variation in the experience of the
explorers, and no special incident took place. At the junction of the
north and south fork of the Platte, Fremont, who wished to explore the
south branch and to secure some astronomical observations, set out with
nine men intending to advance to St. Vrain's fort, where he was hopeful
of obtaining some mules. The rest of the party followed the north fork
to fort Laramie, where it was agreed they would wait for the others to
join them.
Fremont's experience in going up the south branch was in strong contrast
to the pleasant scenes of the previous. It was midsummer and the weather
was suffocatingly hot. Fierce storms of wind and gusts of rain swept
the country, while the bisons were everywhere. They literally numbered
hundreds of thousands, and, look in whatsoever direction the men chose,
they were sure to see the huge creatures cropping the grass or lumbering
across the prairie.
On the fourth day a band of three hundred mounted Indians suddenly
appeared. The chief proved to be an old acquaintance of Maxwell and
showed genuine pleasure in meeting him. They shook hands and the sachem
conducted the little party to his village, where they received most
hospitable treatment.
Resuming their journey, they encamped in a cottonwood grove in a chilly
drizzling rain. The next morning dawned bright and clear, and they
caught their first glimpse of the Rocky Mountains. They gazed long on
the snowy peaks outlined in the far distance like fleecy clouds against
the blue sky.
St. Vrain's Fort was reached on the tenth day. They were made welcome
by Mr. St. Vrain, who was much interested in the expedition westward and
did everything he could to assist Lieutenant Fremont in the enterprise.
The needed horses and mules were secured, and three men were hired to
accompany them across the country to Fort Laramie.
This station was a hundred and twenty-five miles distant, and the new
hands engaged, as a matter of course, were so familiar with it, that
there was no possibility of going astray. The journey was resumed on
the second day after reaching the fort, and without meeting with any
particular incident they arrived at their destination, three days later.
Fort Laramie, at that time, was one of the most important posts of the
far west. It had large bastions at the corners, and its high walls were
whitewashed and picketed.
Several lodges of Sioux Indians were pitched close by, and the division
under charge of Kit Carson having arrived several days before, had also
gone into camp with the appearance of the commander of the expedition.