lately been described by Welmans[210]. 5 grammes of the cacao
preparation are to be mixed with sufficient dilute sulphuric acid (1:
3) to form a thick pulp, then with 10 drops of solution of iodine (in
potassium iodide) and some glycerine. A portion of the mixture is
examined under the microscope (enlarged 160 times). The entire field
of view now appears to be thickly sown with countless blue dots, some
globular, others irregular, among which are especially to be noticed
the large tragacanth cells, resembling potato starch, which are not
seen in cocoa powder that is free from tragacanth, when similarly
prepared as an object; the small blue dots, due to cacao starch, are
visible only in the densely occupied portions.
An admixture of the ~carob~, which has been seldom observed, can
be easily recognised under the microscope by the characteristic reddish
wrinkled tubes of the fruit pulp, which are also coloured violet by
treatment with a warm solution of caustic potash.
The presence of ~earth-nut or earth-nut cake~ can be detected by
the aid of the microscope on treatment with chloral hydrate, by the
characteristic saw toothed epidermis cells of the husk of arachis seed.
~Hazelnut and walnut pulp~, so far as they are to be met with in
cacao preparations, can be distinguished under the microscope by shreds
of the tissue of the seed husks, in which broad streaks of spiral
vessels, lying close on one another, are distinctly prominent. If in
addition the woody fruit shell be admixed, it can be detected by the
great number of cells.
B. Definitions of Cacao Preparations.
The following formulae have been compiled by the Association of German
Chocolate Manufacturers for the purpose of fixing the definition of
cacao, and we may say that we agree with same in the main, as they
satisfy all just claims, and keep pace with the progress made in
consequence of the introduction of the modern machinery now in use,
both from a scientific and practical point of view. Only in a few
points are we of different opinion, and have referred to such clearly
in their place.
a) Regulations of the Association of German Chocolate Manufacturers
relating to the Trade in Cacao Preparations (cocoa, chocolate and
chocolate goods).
(Revision of September 16^{th} 1907.)
I.
1. Cacao mass is the product obtained by simply grinding and moulding
roasted and shelled cacao beans and no substance handled under this
name may contain any admixtures of foreign matter.
2. Disintegrated cacao mass is cacao which has been treated either
with alkalis, alkaline earth, or steam.
3. Cocoa powder, freed of oil (also soluble, disintegrated cacao) is
the resulting product when the cacao bean is decorticated, roasted and
more or less freed from its oil or also disintegrated in powder form.
Cocoa powder, cacao from which oil has been extracted, disintegrated
and soluble cacao may on no account contain foreign ingredient other
than an addition of roots and spices.
In the case of cacaos disintegrated with alkalis or alkali earths, not
more than 3 % of alkali or alkali earth may be used in the process;
they may not contain more than 8 % of ash, reckoned on cacao material
with 56 % of cacao butter.
4. ~Chocolate.~ The designation “Chocolate” may only be applied
to those confections which are prepared by the addition of cacao
butter, vanilla, vanillin, cinnamon, cloves or other spices to roasted
and shelled beans or to a disintegrated mixture of cacao and sugar.
The percentage amount of sugar may not exceed 70, and the occasional
addition of other substances (medicinal, meals, and the like) is
admissible, but the total percentage of these and the sugar may not
exceed 70.[211]
5. ~Food chocolates~, ~chocolates for immediate consumption~,
and ~dessert chocolates~. For these confections the same
principles hold good, with the exception that here additions of
nuts, almonds and milk stuffs are permissible, up to a percentage
not exceeding 5 in total, without any declaration of the goods being
necessary.
6. ~Chocolate powder~ is a mixture of cacao material which may be
disintegrated and more or less freed from oil, with an amount of sugar
not exceeding 70% at the most. Spices as in the case of chocolate.[211]
7. Cacao butter is the fat obtained from the decorticated bean or cacao
material.
II.
The following are especially to be regarded as adulterations of the
goods mentioned under I. from 1 to 7.
1. Foreign fats;
2. Shells and other waste cacao products (dust or seed);
3. Meal, though this is not expressly given;
4. Colouring matter; the colouring of the surface of figures is
permissible;
5. So-called fat economisers, such as adraganth, gelatine, and
dextrine.
An addition of substances for medicinal or dietetic purposes is
permissible, though in such cases the goods must be declared. The
addition of any fats other than cacao butter (i. e. of any foreign fat)
or of shells or waste products to cacao or chocolate or to cacao or
chocolate goods is also not permissible even when these are designated
in such a manner that the words chocolate and cacao do not occur in
their description.
III.
~Declaration of Added Ingredients.~
The declaration must be transcribed in legible script and form, as
e. g. “Meal” so as to be readily understood by all, and composed in
German.
The declaration must occur together with the description of contents
and as part of the same on despatching original packages in retail
transactions.
In wholesale trade the declaration must occur on all offers,
quotations, bills and all boxes, etc. provided with description of
contents.
When offered for sale or exhibited in an unpacked condition, every box
etc. containing the goods must have such a declaration introduced so as
to be visible to every buyer in the premises, where possible; or the
declaration shall be placed on the goods themselves.
1. Skimmed milk chocolates must be literally described as such, and
must be manufactured with at least 10 % of skimmed milk powder or the
corresponding quantity of skimmed milk proper. Addition of ordinary
milk or its powder is permissible and need not be declared;
2. Milk chocolate must be manufactured with ordinary milk containing
at least 3 % of fat, and in such a manner that at least 10 % of milk
powder or the corresponding quantity of milk proper are employed;
3. Cream chocolate must be prepared from cream containing at least 10
% of fat, and in such a manner that at least 10 % of a cream powder
or the corresponding amount of cream, in each case containing 50 % of
milk fat, are employed. It may be varied to taste with milk proper or
its powder, without any further declaration being necessary.
These percentages represent a minimum. It remains at the manufacturer’s
choice whether he shall employ larger quantities of cream or milk.
The associated firms are further recommended to annex the following
guarantees:
a) that the powder of milk proper contain at least 26 % of fat and be
prepared from a milk guaranteed as pure;
b) that the cream powder contain at least 40 % of milk or be prepared
from cream containing at least 10% of fat.
It is especially emphasised that these quantities are minimums, and
every manufacturer is free to add as much cream or milk as he pleases.
We particularly recommend the procuring of a guarantee from the
milk purveyor as to its purity for every delivery in order to be
covered against fines in case the product should prove to contain an
insufficient amount of fat. Analytical testings of trial samples are
also to be recommended.
By way of comparison we refer to the “Principles for Estimating Cacao
Products and their Food Value” determined by the Free Union of German
Food Chemists in their 8th annual assembly at Heidelberg (1909) and
finally established in their 10th held at Dresden (1911), which are
said to have found general acceptance from the 1st July, 1912.
b) Final Wording of the Principles of the Free Union of German
Food Chemists for the estimation of the Value of Cocoa and Cacao
Preparations.
I.
~Cacao mass~ is the product which is purely and simply obtained
from the roasted and shelled cacao bean by grinding and moulding.
Cacao mass may not contain any kind of foreign substance. Traces of
shell may only be present in minor quantity. The waste product falling
in the cleansing of the bean must not be added to the cacao mass, nor
may it be worked up into cacao material separate and apart from other
cacao.
Cacao mass shows 2·5-5% of ash and contains 52-58 % of fat.
Disintegrated cacao is such material as is treated with alkalis or
alkaline earths, ammonia or its salts, under pressure of steam.
II.
~Cocoa powder~, cacao that has been pressed and its oil removed,
soluble Cocoa and disintegrated cacao are synonyms for cacao mass
which has been reduced to powder form after they have been partially
separated from fat by expression under heat; and generally treatment
with alkalis or their carbonates, alkaline earths, ammonia, and ammonia
salts under a strong steam pressure are presupposed.
Cocoa powder containing under 20% of fat, as well as that treated with
spices (aromatised or scented) must be declared accordingly.
Cocoa powder may not contain any kind of foreign substance. Traces of
shell may only be present in minor quantity. The waste product falling
in the cleansing of the bean may neither be added to the cocoa powder
nor itself worked up into such a powder.
The added alkali or alkaline earths may not exceed 3 % of the raw
material.
Only powdered cacao and cocoa powder which has been treated with
ammonia and its salts under strong steam pressure shows from 3 to 5 %
of ash on cacao mass containing 55 % of fat.
Cocoa powders disintegrated with alkalis and alkaline earths must not
show more than 8 % of ash on cacao containing 55 % of fat.
The percentage of water must not rise above 9.
III.
~Chocolate~ is a mixture of cacao material with beetroot or cane
sugar and a proportionate admixture of spices (vanilla, vanillin,
cinnamon, cloves and so forth). Many chocolates contain apart from that
an addition of cacao butter.
The percentage of sugar may not amount to more than 68.
Addition of substances for dietetic and medicinal purposes is
permissible, and then the total of sugar and such addition must not
exceed 68% of the whole.
Apart from the addition of spices no other vegetable admixtures are
permissible. Nor may chocolate contain any foreign fat or foreign
mineral constituents. Cacao shells may only be present in faint traces.
The waste product falling in the cleansing of the bean must not be
added to the cacao mass, nor may it be worked up into cacao material
itself.
Chocolates which contain meal, almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts and milk
stuffs must be provided with a declaration indicating such addition
precisely, and here again the total addition of foreign ingredients
shall not exceed 68 %.[212]
The percentage of ash constituent shall not exceed 2.5.
IV.
~Covering or coating material~ must satisfy the requirements
holding good for chocolate even when the coated goods bear declarations
in which the words cacao or chocolate do not expressly occur, although
admixtures of nuts, almonds and milk stuffs not exceeding a total of 5%
may be made without declaration.
V.
~Chocolate powder~ may not contain more than 68 % of sugar.
VI.
~Cacao butter~ is the fat obtained from the hulled bean or cacao
mass.
~Milk and Cream Chocolates.~
1. Cream, milk and skimmed milk-chocolates are products which are
manufactured with addition of cream, milk (skimmed or unskimmed) in a
natural, thickened or dry form. They must be declared as cream, milk or
skimmed milk chocolates.
2. The fat content of full milk should amount to at least 3 percent,
and that of cream itself 10 percent. If the full milk or cream is
added in a condensed or dried state, these ingredients must be in
corresponding proportions. As it is at present not possible to produce
a cream powder containing at least 55 percent of fat, the normal
preparation of this class is, for the time being, represented by a
production containing 5.5 percent of milk fat in the form of cream
and milk.
3. Milk chocolate prepared from skimmed milk must contain at least 12.5
percent of dried milk or skim-milk, and “Cream” chocolates not less
than 10 percent of cream or full-cream powder.
4. The percentage of the milk or cream preparation added must in all
chocolates be deducted only from the percentage of the sugar, i. e. the
cacao content of all chocolates containing these ingredients must be
the same as in the case of the commoner varieties.
~Special notice.~ In the case of butter chocolates, in which the
cream is replaced by pure cacao fat, the same regulations naturally
obtain; thus the amount of butter added must be not less than 5.5
percent. of the whole, and the butter should be used in place of the sugar
only.
(Regulations relating to the manner of examining chocolates as to the
presence of the prescribed quantities of the above ingredients will
probably be issued in the course of a year or two.)
c. Vienna Regulations.
The Assembly of Microscopical and Food Chemists in Vienna, held on
the 12th-13th October 1897, the object of which was to fix a “Codex
Alimentarius Austriacus”, also arrived at some just and appreciable
definitions, which are well worthy of repetition here:[213]
1. Chocolate should consist of a mixture of cacao, Austrian sugar
capable of fermentation, further an addition of spices (cinnamon,
cloves, vanilla or vanillin) amounting to as much as 1 percent of the
whole.
2. Cacao mass should consist of the roasted and shelled cacao bean,
ground and moulded, only.
3. Cocoa Powder should be a preparation obtained from cacao mass only
by the partial expression of the 50 percent of fat which the latter
contains and frequently treated with alkalis. The alkalis may reach 2
percent of the whole, and the object of the treatment with them is
to effect the disintegration of the tissues of cacao or to render the
cacao “soluble
d) International Definitions.
An International Congress of Chocolate and Cocoa Manufacturers was
finally held in Berne on August 21st-23rd 1911, which, unlike the
meeting held by the White Cross in Geneva (1908), the object of which
was the prevention of food adulterations, was really international
and attended by numerous manufacturers from Belgium, Germany,
England, France, Holland, Italy, Mexico, Austria, Hungary, Russia and
Switzerland, the total number of visitors amounting to 250.[214]
1. ~Cacao Mass.~
§ 1. Cacao mass is obtained by roasting or drying[215] cacao beans
which have previously been well cleaned and freed from the shells
and dust. Cacao mass can either be disintegrated, i. e. “soluble” or
untreated with disintegrating agents, i. e. “insoluble
Cacao which has been treated according to § 5 is in the real and
business sense of the term to be regarded as a ~pure~ article of
food, seeing that the treatment with alkaline carbonates or pure alkali
is a purely chemical, or technical, operation. Such cacao may therefore
be justly termed “pure
§ 2. Cacao mass may contain a quantity of added cacao butter
proportionate to the prescribed, or suitable, fat content of the cacao
preparation to be made.
2. ~Cocoa Powder.~
§ 3. Cocoa powder should consist of defatted, or fatty, pulverised
cacao mass.
§ 4. Cocoa powder which has been opened up by means of alkalis or
otherwise is termed “soluble” or disintegrated cacao.
Disintegrated cacao which has been treated as described under § 5 may
in the real and business sense of the word be regarded as a “pure”
article of food, as the treatment with alkaline carbonates or pure
alkalis is a purely chemical, or technical, operation. Such cacao may,
therefore, be justly termed “pure
§ 5. The quantity of alkali used to effect the treatment described
should not exceed 5·75[216] grammes of potash or the equivalent of
another alkaline carbonate, to 100 grammes of dry defatted cacao.
III. ~Cacao Butter.~
§ 6. Cacao butter consists of the fat obtained from either untreated or
disintegrated cacao.
IV. ~Chocolate~ and ~Chocolate Powder~.
§ 7. Chocolate is a mixture of cacao mass and sugar, with or without
the addition of cacao butter. On pulverising chocolate, ~chocolate
powder~ is obtained.
§ 8. Both chocolate and chocolate powder may, if the methods of
manufacture require it, be prepared from partially defatted cacao mass.
§ 9. The amount of cacao mass and cacao butter contained in chocolates
and chocolate powders should be at least 32 percent[217] of the whole.
V. ~Milk Chocolate.~
§ 10. Milk chocolate should consist of a mixture of cacao mass, cacao
butter, sugar and milk or milk powder. The quantity of cacao mass and
cacao butter contained in such preparations should amount together to
at least 25 percent[218] of the whole.
§ 11. All chocolates which are brought on to the market under the name
of milk chocolate, must contain at least 12·5 percent of milk or milk
powder.
§ 12. No milk used for the preparation of milk chocolate may contain
any preserving agent.
VI. ~Covering Matter.~
§ 13. The definitions of chocolate proper apply also to covering
material.
§ 14. Covering chocolate may, without special designation, contain up
to 5 percent of its weight as sold of almonds, nuts, milk or milk
powder. All other additions must be clearly declared on the packages in
which the covering material is sold, or in the invoices referring to it.
VII. ~Flavouring matter~ (Spices).
§ 15. All material (spices etc.) used for flavouring cacao preparations
must be harmless.[219]
Key to horizontal text = HT = Forbidden colouring matters
————————————+—————————————-—+——————————————————————————————+——————————
Name of | | |
cacao | Adulteration | Mode of Detection | Reference
preparation| | |
————————————+—————————————-—+——————————————————————————————+——————————
Chocolate | |{ a) Microscopically | 277
Cacao mass | |{ b) By excess in glucose | 264
Coated |Meal (kind |{ c) By decreasing the amount |
Goods | not stated) |{ of ash |
Covering | |{ | —
Chocolats | |{ a) By increasing the amount |
fondants | Cacao husks |{ of ash and the amount of |
| and sawdust |{ silicic acid in the ash | 256
| |{ b) Method of levigation | 267
| |{ c) Determination of fibre | 266
| |{ d) Microscopically | 275
| | |
| |{ a) Melting point | 260
| |{ b) Iodine value | —
|Foreign fats |{ c) Saponification value | —
| and oils |{ d) Refractometer test | —
| |{ e) Björklund’s test | 261
| | |
|Bad (rancid) |{ a) Acid value | 260
| cacao-butter |{ b) Reichert-Meissl number | —
| | |
| {Yellow ochre|} |
| {Red ferric |} Increase in the |
|HT{oxide |} amount of ash | —
| {Brickdust |} |
| {Coal |} |
only | | |
observed |Cacaolol | |
in soup | | |
powders; |Zinc white and |} |
only used | heavy spar |} Analytically in the ash | —
to imitate | | |
the ash of | | |
chocolate | | |
cigars; | | |
|Besides |} |
| inorganic |}Increase in the |
| weighting |} amount of ash | —
| material |} |
| Sand } | |
| Clay } |Polarisation |
| Dextrine} | by Welmans’ process | 258
| | |
|Excess of sugar|{ a) Polarimetric test | 269
| |{ b) Aräometric test | 270
| |{ c) Decrease in ash | —
|Excess of cacao|Determination of amount of fat| 258
| butter | |
|Excess of water|Determination of moisture | 254
|Gelatine |Picric acid test and albumin |
| | determination | —
|Tragacanth |Microscopically | 277
|Earth-nut |Microscopically | 278
|Earth-nut-cake |Determination of albumin | 271
|Walnut- and |Microscopically | 278
| hazelnut | |
| pulps | |
Cocoa- |{ Husk | |
Powder |{ Foreign fat |As with chocolate | —
|{ Meal | |
C. Adulterations of Cacao wares and their Recognition.
a) Introductory.
Cacao preparations are subject to manifold and various kinds of
adulteration. The following table gives a list of proved adulterating
agents, and contains in the last column but one hints as to how such
foreign additions can be detected, which hints are given in more detail
on various pages in this edition, the numbers of which are annexed in
the last column.
Bases for the judgment of cacao preparations appear on the one hand
in the definitions and formulas previously given, and on the other in
the rougher and finer adulterations which we had the opportunity of
detecting. We give these bases once more, at least such as we deem
necessary to a proper estimation of the purity of cacao goods, and in
general rather incline to the principles which Filsinger has worked out
for the Imperial Health Office (Germany) and which received a hearty
reception at the hands of the various unions connected with the trade.
b) The Principles.
~Chocolate~, ~Cacao material~, and ~cocoa powder~
(defatted and disintegrated cacao) may on no account contain any kind
of foreign vegetable mixtures like starch, meal, peanut cake, hazel nut
and walnut admixtures, nor cacao shells nor yet waste products, neither
may it contain any mineral stuffs or foreign fats. Chocolates with meal
addition must contain on the wrapper a concise and definite declaration
of such addition on the wrapper. The presence of cacao shells is
detrimental to the nutritious value of the cacao preparation, being
little suited for human consumption, as they contain a large quantity
of woody substance, and apart from this, always occur with adhering
sand and earth. The removal of such shells is since the perfecting of
the cleaning machinery intended for the purpose, become a very easy
matter, and so none but very inferior quantities are permissible.
Any additional shells (even when declared, and very fine ground) are
illegal. The addition of spices or their corresponding ethereal oils
are allowed, and as such may be considered almonds and nuts, more
especially in the case of coating material and so forth, although they
are subject to compulsory declaration.
The same conditions prevail in the case of ~chocolate enamelling~
and ~coating~ material as for ordinary chocolate, and in
particular they must be free from all kind of foreign fats and cacao
shells.
The use of dyes (earth-and tar-colouring matter) which are intended as
substitutes for a percentage of cacao, and not merely as ornamental, is
not permissible; and such dyes as are objectionable from a hygienical
standpoint are impossible, even when they are used for decorating
purposes. Cacao material contains on an average from 3-4 % of ash and
from 50-55 % of fat.
Admixtures of glue, tragacanth or dextrine are not permissible, when
they are intended to conceal an addition of water or to save the use of
expensive cacao fat.
~Cocoa powder~ contains arbitrary quantities of fat, and shows
accordingly a varying quantity of ash to correspond with the amount of
fat expressed. It is therefore necessary to declare the quantity of
fat contained in quite a general manner and something in the following
grade: skimmed milk cacao under 25 % of fat, cacao freed from oil,
fatty and ordinary milk chocolate up to a percentage not exceeding
35.[220] For the same reason it is necessary to convert the established
ash contents, possibly of cacao material with 50% of fat, or none at
all. It is most to the purpose to convert in the case of dry material
which has been freed of fat, as occasionally considerable amounts of
moisture remain over from the processes of preparation. Cocoa powder
which has been disintegrated without the use of potassium, sodium
or magnesia agents (carbonic acid) will therefore show the same ash
contents as the corresponding material freed from oil, whilst that of
cacao disintegrated by means of the fixed alkalis will be greater. The
ash contents of powder freed of oil may nevertheless not exceed 3 %,
corresponding to a total 7 %. The mixture of cocoa powder and sugar is
not permissible.
Chocolates, chocolate fondants and coating mass contain variable
quantities of sugar and fat; accordingly no limits can be assigned to
the ash contents of these preparations.
A unanimity of opinion as to the least possible amount of cacao for the
chemical estimation of chocolate has become an urgent necessity. Hereby
it should be established that in good chocolate the fatty contents,
apart from the sugar,[221] exceed a definite percentage.[222] A minimum
percentage of 35% of cacao mass in chocolate destined for export, which
must possibly be covered, has been fixed by the council of commerce.
As percentage of chocolate in cacao the double quantity of non-fatty
cacao material must be taken, on the supposition that raw cacao
contains on an average 50% of fat.
c) Laws and Enactments as to Trade in Cacao Preparations.
So far traffic in cacao has only been brought under legal control in
three European countries, namely Belgium, Roumania, and Switzerland.
We annex in the following pages a resumé of the legal prescriptions
appertaining thereto, as being of especial importance to exporting
manufacturers.