Rochester.
Canterbury.
Dover, slept.
Calais.
Gravelines, 3 postes.
Dunkerque, 2 1/2.
Furnes, 3 1/4.
Guistelles, 3 1/2.
Bruges, 2 3/4, one night.
Ghent, by canal, one night.
Quadrecht, 1 1/2.
Alost, 2.
Brussels, 3 1/2, late arrival, stayed two nights.
Genappe, 2 1/2.
Sanbreffe, 2 1/2.
Namur, 2 3/4, late arrival.
Huy, 3 1/2.
Liege, 5 1/4, two stages.
Batiste, 2 3/4.
Aix la Chapelle, 3.
Juliers, 3 1/2.
Bergheim, 2 3/4.
Cologne, 3, after sunset. Two nights at Cologne.
Bonne, 3 1/2.
Remagan, 2 1/2.
Andernach, 3.
Coblentz, 2, late arrival, two nights.
Boppart, 2 1/2.
St. Goar, 1 3/4.
Bingen, 2.
Nieder-Ingelheim, 1 1/2.
Mayence, 1 1/2.
Wisbaden, 1 1/2.
Frankfort, 3 1/2, late arrival.
Darmstadt, 1 1/2.
Heppenheim, 3/4.
Weinheim, 1.
Heidelberg, 1 3/4.
Bruchsal, 2 1/2.
Carlsruhe, 1 1/2, late arrival.
Etlingen, 3/4.
Rastadt, 1.
Baden-Baden, 3/4.
Buhl.
Offenberg, 2 1/4.
Gegenbach, 1 1/2.
Haslach, 1.
Hornberg, about sunset arrived, and departed next day.
Schiltach, 1.
Villenghen, 1 1/4, after sunset.
Donneschingen, 3/4, source of the Danube.
Blomberg, 1.
Schaffhausen, 1 1/2.
Eglisan.
Zurich, one night.
Baden.
Leuzberg, slept.
Murgenthal.
Herzogenboschee, slept in carriages.
Berne, two nights.
Thoun.
Interlachen, by water.
Lauterbrunnen, in _char-a-banc_.
Grindelwald, travelled with three mules.
Meiringhen, Do.
Handek, and back to M., Do.
Meiringhen.
Sarnen.
Engelberg, in _char-a-banc_, but walked two leagues.
Santz, in _char-a-banc_.
Lucerne, by lake, three nights.
Kusnack.
Rigi Berg, the top, on foot, one night.
Goldau, on foot.
Sieven.
Schwytz.
Brunnen.
Fluelan, head of Uri.
Altorf.
Amstag.
Wasen.
Hopital.
Hospice on St. Gotthard.
Airola.
Faîdo.
Belinzona.
Locarno.
Luwina.
Ponte Tresa.
Lugano.
Porlezza.
Menaggio, one night.
Cadenabbia, two nights.
Belaggio.
Como, one night.
Milan, four nights.
Cadenabbia.
Colico.
Fort Fuentes.
Porlezza (Lake Lugano, by Menaggio).
Lugano.
Luvino (by Ponte Tresa).
Bavena (Lago Maggiore).
Domo d'Ossola.
Simplon.
Brigg.
Tourtemagne (Tourtman).
Leuk.
Baths of Leuk.
Gemmi.
Baths of Leuk.
Siders.
Sion.
Martigny.
Chamony, by Col de Baume.
Trientz.
Martigny.
St. Maurice.
Bex.
Villeneuve.
Vevay, on foot.
Lausanne.
Geneva.
Gex.
La Vattay.
Les Rousses.
Morez.
St. Laurent.
Maisoneuve.
Champagnole.
Poligny.
Mont-Sous-Vedray.
Dole.
Auxonne.
Genlis.
Dijon.
Sainte-Seine.
Chanceaux.
Villeneuve les Couvres.
Montbard.
Aizy-sur-Armançon.
Ancy-le-Franc.
Tonnère.
Flogny.
Sainte Florentin.
Esnon.
Joigny.
Ville-vallier.
Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.
Sens.
Pont-sur-Yonne.
Villeneuve-la-Guard.
Fossard.
Fontainbleau.
Chailly.
Ponthierry.
Essonne.
Fromenteau.
Ville-juif.
Paris.
_N.B._--At Paris we left our carriage, which was sold some months
afterwards for half its cost. Proceeded in the Diligence, after
twenty-six days spent at Paris, by Chantilly and Amiens to Boulogne. Set
off from Paris at 8 o'clock on Saturday morning, and arrived at Boulogne
at about 9 on Sunday night.
NOTE B
The following are extracts from Henry Crabb Robinson's account of his
"Swiss Tour with the Wordsworths." (See _Diary, Correspondence_, etc.,
vol. ii. pp. 167-191.)--ED.
I left London on the 1st of August, and reached Lyons on the 9th.
* * * * *
On the 15th I went to Solothurn, and an acquaintance began out of which
a catastrophe sprang. In the stage between Berne and Solothurn, which
takes a circuit through an unpicturesque, flat country, were two very
interesting young men, who I soon learned were residing with a
Protestant clergyman at Geneva, and completing their education. The
elder was an American, aged twenty-one, named Goddard. He had a sickly
air, but was intelligent, and not ill-read in English poetry. The other
was a fine handsome lad, aged sixteen, of the name of Trotter, son of
the then, or late, Secretary to the Admiralty. He was of Scotch descent.
They were both genteel and well-behaved young men, with the grace
communicated by living in good company. We became at once
acquainted,--I being then, as now, _young_ in the facility of forming
acquaintance. We spent a very agreeable day and evening together, partly
in a walk to a hermitage in the neighbourhood, and took leave of each
other at night,--I being bound for Lucerne, they for Zürich. But in the
morning I saw, to my surprise, my young friends with their knapsacks in
their hands ready to accompany me. Goddard said, with a very amiable
modesty, "If you will permit us, we wish to go with you. I am an admirer
of Wordsworth's poems, and I should be delighted merely to see him. Of
course I expect no more." I was gratified by this proposal, and we had a
second day of enjoyment, and this through a very beautiful country. My
expectations were not disappointed. I had heard of the Wordsworth party
from travellers with whom we met. I found my friends at the Cheval
Blanc. From them I had a most cordial reception, and I was in high
spirits. Mrs. Wordsworth wrote in her journal: "H. C. R. was drunk with
pleasure, and made us drunk too." My companions also were kindly
received.
* * * * *
Wordsworth and I returned to dinner, and found my young friends already
in great favour with the ladies. After dinner we walked through the
town, which has no other remarkable feature than the body of water
flowing through it, and the several covered wooden bridges. In the
angles of the roof of these bridges there are paintings on historical
and allegorical subjects. One series from the Bible, another from the
Swiss war against Austria, a third called the Dance of Death. The last
is improperly called, for Death does not force his partner to an
involuntary waltz, as in the famous designs which go by Holbein's name,
but appears in all the pictures an unwelcome visitor. There are feeling
and truth in many of the conceptions, but the expression is too often
ludicrous, and too often coarsely didactic.
* * * * *
_August 18th._--We sailed on the lake as far as Küsnacht, the two young
men being still our companions; and between two and three we began to
ascend the Righi, an indispensable achievement in a Swiss tour. We
engaged beds at the Staffel, and went on to see the sun set, but we were
not fortunate in the weather. Once or twice there were gleams of light
on some of the lakes, but there was little charm of colouring. After an
early and comfortable supper we enjoyed the distant lightning; but it
soon became very severe, and some of the rooms of the hotel were flooded
with rain. Our rest was disturbed by a noisy party, who, unable to
obtain beds for themselves, resolved that no one else should enjoy his.
The whole night was spent by them in an incessant din of laughing,
singing, and shouting. We were called up between three and four A.M.,
but had a very imperfect view from this "dread summit of the Queen of
Mountains"--Regina montium. The most beautiful part of the scene was
that which arose from the clouds below us. They rose in succession
sometimes concealing the country, and then opening to our view dark
lakes, and gleams of very brilliant green. They sometimes descended as
if into an abyss beneath us. We saw a few of the snow-mountains
illuminated by the first rays of the sun.
My journal simply says: "After breakfast our young gentlemen left us." I
afterwards wrote, "We separated at a spot well suited to the parting of
those who were to meet no more. Our party descended through the valley
of our 'Lady of the Snow,' and our late companions went to Arth. We
hoped to meet in a few weeks at Geneva."
I will leave the order of time, and relate now all that appertains to
this sad history. The young men gave us their address, and we promised
to inform them when we should be at Geneva, on our return. But on that
return we found that poor Goddard had perished in the lake of Zürich, on
the third day after our leave-taking on the Righi.
I heard the story from Trotter on the 23rd of September. They had put
themselves in a crazy boat; and a storm arising, the boat overset. It
righted itself, but to no purpose. Trotter swam to the shore, but
Goddard was not seen again. Trotter was most hospitably received by a
Mr. Keller, near whose house the catastrophe took place. The body was
cast ashore next day, and afterwards interred in the neighbouring
churchyard of Küsnacht. An inscription was placed near the spot where
the body was found, and a mural monument erected in the church. At the
funeral a pathetic address was delivered by the Protestant clergyman,
which I read in the Zürich paper. We were all deeply impressed by the
event. Wordsworth, I knew, was not fond of drawing the subjects of his
poems from occurrences in themselves interesting, and therefore, though
I urged him to write on this tragic incident, I little expected he
would. There is, however, a beautiful elegiac poem by him on this
subject. [To the later editions there is prefixed a prose introduction.
This I wrote. Mr. Wordsworth wrote to me for information, and I drew up
the account in the first person.]
* * * * *
To go back to the 19th of August, after parting from our young
companions we proceeded down the valley in which is the chapel dedicated
to our Lady of the Snow, the subject of Wordsworth's nineteenth Poem.
The preceding eighteen have to do with objects which had been seen
before I joined the party. The elegiac stanzas are placed near the end
of the collection, I know not for what reason. The stanzas on the chapel
express poetically the thoughts which a prosaic mind like mine might
receive from the numerous votive offerings hung on the walls. There are
pictures representing accidents,--such as drowning, falling from a
horse, and the Mother and the Child are in the clouds,--it being
understood that the escape proceeded from her aid. Some crutches with
painted inscriptions bear witness to the miracles wrought on the lame.
* * * * *
We passed the same day through Goldau, a desolate spot, once a populous
village, overwhelmed by the slip from the Rossberg.
On the 20th at Schwytz, which Wordsworth calls the "heart" of
Switzerland, as Berne is the "head." Passing through Brunnen, we reached
Altorf on the 21st, the spot which suggested Wordsworth's twentieth
effusion. My prose remark on the people shows the sad difference between
observation and fancy. I wrote: "These patriotic recollections are
delightful when genuine, but the physiognomy of the people does not
speak in favour of their ancestors. The natives of the district have a
feeble and melancholy character. The women are afflicted by goitre. The
children beg, as in other Catholic cantons. The little children, with
cross-bows in their hands, sing unintelligible songs. Probably Wilhelm
Tell serves, like Henri Quatre, as a name to beg by."
* * * * *
We next crossed the St. Gotthard. Wordsworth thinks this pass more
beautiful than the more celebrated [a blank here]. We slept successively
at Amsteg on the 22nd, Hospenthal on the 23rd, and Airolo on the 24th.
On the way we were overtaken by a pedestrian, a young Swiss, who had
studied at Heidelberg, and was going to Rome. He had his flute, and
played the Ranz des Vaches. Wordsworth begged me to ask him to do this,
which I did on condition that he wrote a sonnet on it. It is XXII. of
the collection. The young man was intelligent, and expressed pleasure in
our company. We were sorry when he took French leave. We were English,
and I have no doubt he feared the expense of having such costly
companions. He gave a sad account of the German Universities, and said
that Sand, the murderer of Kotzebue, had many apologists among the
students.
We then proceeded on our half-walk and half-drive, and slept on the 25th
at Bellinzona, the first decidedly Italian town.
* * * * *
On the 27th we had a row to Luino, on the Lago Maggiore, a walk to Ponte
Tresa, and then a row to Lugano, where we went to an excellent hotel,
kept by a man of the name of Rossi.
* * * * *
On the 28th we took an early walk up the mountain San Salvador, which
produced No. XXIV. of Wordsworth's Memorial Poems. Though the weather
was by no means favourable, we enjoyed a much finer view than from the
Righi. The mountains in the neighbourhood are beautiful, but the charm
of the prospect lies in a glimpse of distant mountains. We saw a most
elegant pyramid, literally in the sky, partly black, and partly shining
like silver. It was the Simplon, Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa were seen in
parts. Clouds concealed the bases, and too soon also the summits. This
splendid vision lasted but a few minutes. The plains of Piedmont were
hardly visible, owing to the black clouds which covered this part of the
horizon. We could, however, see in the midst of a dark surface a narrow
ribbon of white, which we were told was the Po. We were told the
direction in which Milan lay, but could not see the cathedral.
The same day we went on to Menaggio, on the Lake Como. This, in
Wordsworth's estimation, is the most beautiful of the lakes. On the 29th
and 30th we slept at Cadenabbia.
* * * * *
I wrote in my journal: "This day has been spent on the lake, and so much
exquisite pleasure I never had on water. The tour, or rather excursion,
we have been making surpasses in scenery all that I have ever made; and
Wordsworth asserts the same. I write now from an inn where we have been
served with all the promptitude of an English hotel, and with a neatness
equal to that of Holland. But the pleasure can hardly be recorded. It
consists in the contemplation of scenes absolutely indescribable by
words, and in sensations for which no words have been even invented. We
were lucky in meeting two honest fellows of watermen, who have been
attentive and not extortionate. I will not enumerate the points of view
and villas we visited. We saw nothing the guide-books do not speak of."
On the 31st we slept at Como, and next day went to Milan.
* * * * *
At the Ambrosian Library we inspected the famous copy of Virgil which
belonged to Petrarch. It has in the poet's own handwriting a note,
stating when and where he first saw Laura. Wordsworth was deeply
interested in this entry, and would certainly have requested a copy, if
he had not been satisfied that he should find it in print. The _custos_
told us that when Buonaparte came here first, and the book was shown
him, he seized it, exclaiming, "This is mine." He had it bound, and his
own _N._ marked on it. It came back when the other plunder was restored.
Another curiosity was a large book by Leonardo da Vinci, full of
mechanical studies. Wordsworth was much struck with the fact that a man
who had produced works of so great beauty and sublimity, had prepared
himself by intense and laborious study of scientific and mathematical
details. It was not till late that he ventured on beauty as exhibited in
the human form.
* * * * *
But the great attraction of this neighbourhood is the celebrated picture
of Leonardo da Vinci in the refectory of the Convent of Maria della
Grazia. After sustaining every injury from Italian monks, French
soldiers, wet, and the appropriation of the building to secular
purposes, this picture is now protected by the public sense of its
excellence from further injury. And more remains of the original than
from Goethe's dissertation I expected to see. The face of our Saviour
appears to have suffered less than any other part. And the countenance
has in it exquisite feeling; it is all sweetness and dignity.
* * * * *
Some of the Apostles have a somewhat caricature expression, which has
been far better preserved in the several copies existing, as well as in
the engraving of Raphael Morgen. There is a sort of mawkish
sentimentality in the copies of St. John, which always offended me.
There is less of it in the original. That and St. Andrew are the best
preserved next to the face of Christ.
On the 5th of September the Wordsworths went back to the lake of
Como, in order to gratify Miss Wordsworth, who wished to see every
spot which her brother saw in his first journey,--a journey made when
he was young.
* * * * *
We rejoined the Wordsworths at Baveno on the 8th. Then we crossed the
Simplon, resting successively on the 9th at Domo d'Ossola, 10th Simplon,
11th Turtman, and the 12th and 13th at the baths of Leuk. From this
place we walked up the Gemmi, by far the most wonderful of all the
passes of Switzerland I had ever, or have now ever, crossed. The most
striking part is a mountain wall 1600 feet in perpendicular height, and
having up it a zigzag path broad enough to enable a horse to ascend. The
road is hardly visible from below. A parapet in the more dangerous parts
renders it safe. Here my journal mentions our seeing men employed in
picking up bees in a torpid state from the cold. The bees had swarmed
four days before. It does not mention what I well recollect, and
Wordsworth has made the subject of a sonnet, the continued barking of a
dog _irritated by the echo of his own voice_. In human life this is
perpetually occurring. It is said that a dog has been known to contract
an illness by the continued labour of barking at his own echo. In the
present instance the barking lasted while we were on the spot.
I say nothing of Chamouni, where we slept two nights, the 15th and 16th;
nor of the roads to it, but that the Tête Noire, by which we returned,
is still more interesting than the Col de Balme, by which we went. Again
at Martigny on the 17th. I should not have omitted to mention that, to
add to the sadness produced by the Valais, Wordsworth remarked that
there the Alps themselves were in a state of decay--crumbling to pieces.
His is the line:--
The human soul craves something that endures.
On the 18th we were at Villeneuve, and on the 19th and 20th at Lausanne.
At Paris I renewed my old acquaintances, and saw the old sights.
On the 8th I left the Wordsworths, who were intending to prolong their
stay. On the 9th I slept at Amiens; on the 10th was on the road; on the
11th reached Dover; and on the 12th of October slept in my own chambers.
"And so," my journal says, "I concluded my tour in excellent health and
spirits, having travelled farther, and seen a greater number and a
greater variety of sublime and beautiful objects, and in company better
calculated to make me feel the worth of these objects, than any it has
been my good fortune to enjoy."
ADDENDUM
See p. 8, note[A], line 6. In this note, of which the date is 1827,
Wordsworth combined two separate ones, in the editions of 1815 and
1820.--ED.
END OF VOL. VI
_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_
* * * * *
+--------------------------------------------------------------+
| Transcriber's notes: |
| |
| P.128. typo 'μονωθέν' changed to |
| 'μονωθέντι'. |
| P.134. 'recal', leave as is, this word is in another volume. |
| P.171. Variant [318] numbering corrected. |
| P.211. 'Winchilsea' should be 'Winchelsea', changed. |
| P.230. 'Bandusia' should be 'Blandusia', changed. |
| Fixed various punctuation. |
| Note: The equals sign is used to surround =bold text=; |
| underscores to surround _italic text_. |
+--------------------------------------------------------------+