follows:--"Lucerne, Aug. 16.--... In bounded Henry Robinson, ... with
two young men he has picked up on the road...." "Aug. 17.--The two young
Gentlemen, Mr. R.'s companions, called upon us to walk at 7 o'clock; and
very pleasing youths we found them, one an American, the other a
Scotsman, by birth, students from Geneva, come out on foot for a month's
excursion." "Top of Righi, Sat. 19th.--Our pleasant ingenuous companions
gone. We parted immediately after breakfast." "Lausanne, Sept. 20.--Our
joy was damped by hearing from Mr. Mulloch, of the melancholy fate of
that very interesting youth, Mr. Goddard, with whom we parted on the top
of the Righi. He, with Mr. Trotter, descended to pursue their way to
Zurich, in which lake he was unfortunately drowned two days afterwards;
we towards Lauritz, but all in the hope of meeting again at Altorf....
Mr. G.'s mother is in America.... Seldom have I seen so promising a
youth." "Sat. 23rd. Geneva.--Met Mr. Trotter. The loss of poor Goddard
was occasioned by a sudden squall, which upset one of the worthless
boats, made of thin planks, flat bottomed. Mr. T. being a good swimmer,
and on the side nearest the shore, reached land, when looking for his
companion, he had disappeared, had been sucked under the boat, and was
never seen from the first moment. Great humanity was shown by the people
in the neighbourhood on this melancholy occasion. The body was found,
and afterwards buried in the churchyard at Küsnacht, a village on the
east shore of the lake of Zurich. A discourse in German was delivered by
an old Priest, after the interment, a copy of which Mr. T. showed us;
and which Mr. R. and W. were much pleased with, for the pathetic
simplicity of the expression. It was intended to be sent to the poor
mother of the deceased."
The reference towards the close of the poem to the
Flowers 'mid Goldau's ruins bred;
and the concluding passage of the prefatory note to the edition of 1822,
suggest another passage in Mrs. Wordsworth's Journal. "Aug. 19.--Dined
at Goldau. This cottage-inn is built, as several other houses are, on
the side of the road surrounded by masses of fallen rock: chapel close
by: all walked to the ruins: sate for a long time upon an immense mass
of the fallen mountain. It is an awful and an affecting place. We were
surprised at the extent of the desolation, especially when we looked up
to the mountain whence it had proceeded. The rent, high above us,
appeared so trifling that we could not but wonder how all those mighty
blocks had ever been piled upon so narrow a space. Huge masses of rock
on every side of us. It is aptly called "the valley of Stones." A river
had thridded this once lovely and still interesting valley; but this,
with the green meadows which it fertilized, is buried; and the lake of
Lawerz below driven into narrower compass.... Three villages, with their
inhabitants, had been completely destroyed."
"Wednesday, 19th September. Lausanne.--We met with some pleasant
Englishmen, from whom we heard particulars concerning the melancholy
fate of our young Friend, the American, seen by us for the last time on
the top of the Righi. The tidings of his death had been first
communicated, but a few hours before, by Mr. Mulloch. We had the comfort
of hearing that his friend had saved himself by swimming, and had paid
the last duties to the stranger, so far from home and kindred, who lies
quietly in the churchyard of Küsnacht on the shores of Zurich." (From
Dorothy Wordsworth's Journal, vol. ii.)
On the 24th Nov. 1821, Dorothy Wordsworth wrote to Henry Crabb
Robinson:--"... Amongst the Poems (the _Tour on the Continent_) is one
to the memory of poor Goddard, which probably never would have been
written but for your suggestion. How often do I think of that night when
you first introduced that interesting youth to us! At this moment I see
in my mind's eye the lighted Salon, you in your great-coat, and the two
slender tall figures following you!"--ED.
VARIANTS:
[Footnote 559: 1827.
On arriving at Lausanne, we heard of the fate of the Young American,
whose death is here lamented. He had been our companion for three days;
and we separated upon Mount Righi with mutual hope of meeting again in
the course of our Tour. GOLDAU, mentioned towards the conclusion of this
Piece, is a Village at the foot of Mount Righi, one of those overwhelmed
by a mass which fell from the side of the mountain ROSSBERG, a few years
ago.--W.W. 1822.]
[Footnote 560: 1837
... that sweetly smiled, 1822.
]
[Footnote 561: 1827.
All that we knew of lively care, 1822.
]
[Footnote 562: 1832.
... sod to strew,
That lacks the ornamental care 1822.
]
[Footnote 563: 1827.
Sweet as Eve's fondly-lingering rays, 1822.
]
[Footnote 564: 1832.
... that stone 1827.
]
[Footnote 565: This stanza was first added in 1827.]
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote JE: Mount Righi--Regina Montium.--W. W.]
XXXIII
SKY-PROSPECT--FROM THE PLAIN OF FRANCE
Lo! in the burning west, the craggy nape
Of a proud Ararat! and, thereupon,
The Ark, her melancholy voyage done!
Yon rampant cloud mimics a lion's shape;
There, combats a huge crocodile--agape 5
A golden spear to swallow! and that brown
And massy grove, so near yon blazing town,
Stirs and recedes--destruction to escape!
Yet all is harmless--as the Elysian shades
Where Spirits dwell in undisturbed repose-- 10
Silently disappears, or quickly fades:
Meek Nature's evening comment on the shows
That for oblivion take their daily birth
From all the fuming vanities of Earth!
The only allusion in Mrs. Wordsworth's Journal to any noteworthy
"sky-prospect from the plain of France," occurs when they rested at
Fontainbleau. "Sept. 30.--... Seeing the forest rise at the end of a
long vista of trees, our guide said that from that point we should have
a fine view. Passed through the old-fashioned French flower garden, with
its large sheet of water.... Surprised by the view from the hill, first
towards the palace, and the expanse beyond, and immediately opposite
this (what we so little expected to see) a rocky dell in that sandy
region; most curious, the bank before us scattered thickly with rocks,
by that dim light appearing like a large village. Glorious crimson light
in the west, all the rest of the sky a clear cloudless blue. The evening
star very large, and alone. An impressive silence in the air, so that we
heard the sounds from the distant town distinctly."
"Saturday, 29th September. Fontainbleau.--In the very heart of the Alps,
I never saw a more wild and lonely spot, yet _curious_ in the extreme,
and even _beautiful_. Thousands of white bleached rocks, mostly in
appearance not much larger than sheep, lay on the steep declivities of
the dell among bushes and low trees, heather, bilberries, and other
forest plants. The effect of loneliness and desert wildness was
indescribably increased by the remembrance of the Palace we had left not
an hour before. The spot on which we stood is said to have been
frequented by Henry the IVth. when he wished to retire from his court
and attendants. A few steps more brought us in view of fresh ranges of
the forest, hills, plains, and distant lonely dells. The sunset was
brilliant--light clouds in the west, and overhead a spotless blue dome.
As we wind along the top of the Steep, the views are still changing--the
plain expands eastward, and again appear the white buildings of
Fontainbleau, with something of romantic brightness in the _fading_
light; for we had tarried till a star or two reminded us it was time to
move away. In descending, we followed one of the long straight tracks
that intersect the forest in all directions. Bewildered among those
tracks, we were set right by a party of wood-cutters, going home from
their labour." (From Dorothy Wordsworth's Journal, vol. ii.)--ED.
XXXIV
ON BEING STRANDED NEAR THE HARBOUR OF BOULOGNE
Why cast ye back upon the Gallic shore,
Ye furious waves! a patriotic Son
Of England--who in hope her coast had won,
His project crowned, his pleasant travel o'er?
Well--let him pace this noted beach once more, 5
That gave the Roman his triumphal shells;[JF]
That saw the Corsican his cap and bells
Haughtily shake, a dreaming Conqueror!--
Enough: my Country's cliffs I can behold,
And proudly think, beside the chafing sea,[566] 10
Of checked ambition, tyranny controlled,
And folly cursed with endless memory:
These local recollections ne'er can cloy;
Such ground I from my very heart enjoy!
Near the Town of Boulogne, and overhanging the Beach, are the remains of
a Tower which bears the name of Caligula, who here terminated his
western Expedition, of which these sea-shells were the boasted spoils.
And, at no great distance from these Ruins, Buonaparte, standing upon a
mound of earth, harangued his "Army of England," reminding them of the
exploits of Cæsar, and, pointing towards the white cliffs upon which
their standards _were to float_. He recommended also a subscription to
be raised among the Soldiery to erect on that Ground, in memory of the
Foundation of the "Legion of Honour," a Column,--which was not completed
at the time we were there.--W. W. 1822.
"Embarked in a small vessel; wind contrary. The vessel struck upon a
sandbank. Then was driven with violence upon a rocky road in the
harbour. Tide was ebbing very fast." (Mrs. Wordsworth's Journal.)
"Monday, 29th October. Boulogne.--We walked to Buonaparte's Pillar,
which, on the day when he harangued his soldiers (pointing to the shores
of England whither he should lead them to conquest), he decreed should
be erected in commemoration of the Legion of Honour then established.
The pillar is seen far and wide, _unfinished_, as the intricate casing
of a _scaffolding loftier than itself, shows at whatever distance_ it is
seen. It is said the Bourbons intend to complete the work, and give it a
new name; but I think it more probable that the scaffolding may be left
to fall away, and the Pile of marble remain strewn round, as it is, with
unfinished blocks, an undisputed Monument of the Founder's vanity and
arrogance; and _so_ it may stand as long as the brick towers of Caligula
have done, a remnant of which yet appears on the cliffs. We walked on
the ground which had been covered by the army that dreamt of conquering
England, and were shown the very spot where their Leader made his
boastful speech.
"On the day fixed for our departure from Boulogne, the weather being
boisterous and wind contrary, the _Packet_ could not sail, and we
trusted ourselves to a small vessel, with only one effective sailor on
board. Even _Mary_ was daunted by the Breakers outside the Harbour, and
_I_ descended into the vessel as unwillingly as a criminal might go to
execution, and hid myself in bed. Presently our little ship moved; and
before ten minutes were gone she struck upon the sands. I felt that
something disastrous had happened; but knew not what till poor Mary
appeared in the cabin, having been thrown down from the top of the
steps. There was again a frightful beating and grating of the bottom of
the vessel, water rushing in very fast. A young man, an Italian, who had
risen from a bed beside mine, as pale as ashes, groaned in agony,
kneeling at his prayers. My condition was not much better than his; but
I was more quiet. Never shall I forget the kindness of a little Irish
woman who, though she herself, as she afterwards said, was much
frightened, assured me even chearfully that there was no danger. I
cannot say that her words, as assurances of safety, had much effect upon
me; but the example of her courage made me become more collected; and I
felt her human kindness even at the moment when I believed that we might
be all going to the bottom of the sea together; and the agonizing
thoughts of the distress at home were rushing on my mind." (From Dorothy
Wordsworth's Journal, vol. ii.)--ED.
VARIANTS:
[Footnote 566: 1837.
... murmuring sea, 1822.
]
XXXV
AFTER LANDING--THE VALLEY OF DOVER
NOV. 1820
Where be the noisy followers of the game
Which faction breeds; the turmoil where? that passed
Through Europe, echoing from the newsman's blast,
And filled our hearts with grief for England's shame.
Peace greets us;--rambling on without an aim 5
We mark majestic herds of cattle, free
To ruminate, couched on the grassy lea;
And hear far-off the mellow horn proclaim
The Season's harmless pastime. Ruder sound
Stirs not; enrapt I gaze with strange delight, 10
While consciousnesses, not to be disowned,
Here only serve a feeling to invite
That lifts the spirit to a calmer height,
And makes this[567] rural stillness more profound.
_We mark majestic herds of cattle free
To ruminate._
This is a most grateful sight for an Englishman returning to his native
land. Every where one misses, in the cultivated scenery abroad, the
animating and soothing accompaniment of animals ranging and selecting
their own food at will.--W. W. 1822.
"Dover, Wed., 8th Nov.--At 11 o'clock we took coach and thoroughly
enjoyed our journey between the green pastures of Kent, besprinkled with
groups of trees, and bounded by hedgerows. The scattered cattle quietly
selecting their own food was a cheering, and a home-feeling sight."
(Mrs. Wordsworth's Journal.)
"It was, I think, 10 o'clock when we left Dover. The day was pleasant,
and every English sight delightful, the fields sprinkled with cattle,
the hedgerows, the snug small cottages, the pretty country-houses. Many
a time we said to each other, 'What a pleasant country this must appear
to the eyes of a Frenchman!'" (From Dorothy Wordsworth's Journal, vol.
ii.)--ED.
VARIANTS:
[Footnote 567: 1837.
... the ... 1822.
]
XXXVI
AT DOVER[JG]
[For the impressions on which this sonnet turns, I am indebted to
the experience of my daughter, during her residence at Dover with
our dear friend, Miss Fenwick.--I. F.]
From the Pier's head, musing, and with increase
Of wonder, I have watched[568] this sea-side Town,
Under the white cliff's battlemented crown,
Hushed to a depth of more than Sabbath peace:
The streets and quays are thronged, but why disown 5
Their natural utterance:[569] whence this strange release
From social noise--silence elsewhere unknown?--
A Spirit whispered, "Let all wonder cease;
Ocean's o'erpowering murmurs have set free
Thy sense from pressure of life's common din; 10
As the[570] dread Voice that speaks from out the sea
Of God's eternal Word, the Voice of Time
Doth deaden, shocks of tumult,[571] shrieks of crime,
The shouts of folly, and the groans of sin."
VARIANTS:
[Footnote 568: 1850.
Of wonder, long I watched ... MS.
]
[Footnote 569: 1850.
... were thronged, but why disown
Their natural voices ... C.
]
[Footnote 570: 1850.
... peace;
How strange thought I this orderly release
From social noise. What law elsewhere unknown
That stillness guards? Then ocean cried, "I drown
In solemn sounds; let wonder cease!
So through his spiritual ear is man set free
From conscious pressure of life's heaviest din,
When the.... MS.
... release
From social noise, quiet elsewhere unknown:
{ A spirit whispered }
{ Then cried a spirit } "Doth not ocean drown
In solemn sounds; let wonder cease!
So through his overpowering murmurs.... MS.
]
[Footnote 571: 1850.
Deadens--the shocks of { tumult } MS.
{ passion }
]
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote JF: See Wordsworth's note appended to the poem.--ED.]
[Footnote JG: This sonnet was first published in the edition of
1850.--ED.]
XXXVII
DESULTORY STANZAS,
UPON RECEIVING THE PRECEDING SHEETS FROM THE PRESS
Is then the final page before me spread,
Nor further outlet left to mind or heart?
Presumptuous Book! too forward to be read,
How can I give thee licence to depart?
One tribute more: unbidden feelings start 5
Forth from their coverts; slighted objects rise;
My spirit is the scene of such wild art
As on Parnassus rules, when lightning flies,
Visibly leading on the thunder's harmonies.
All that I saw returns upon my view, 10
All that I heard comes back upon my ear,
All that I felt this moment doth renew;
And where the foot with no unmanly fear
Recoiled--and wings alone could travel--there
I move at ease; and meet contending themes 15
That press upon me, crossing the career
Of recollections vivid as the dreams
Of midnight,--cities, plains, forests, and mighty streams.
Where Mortal never breathed I dare to sit
Among the interior Alps, gigantic crew, 20
Who triumphed o'er diluvian power!--and yet
What are they but a wreck and residue,
Whose only business is to perish!--true
To which sad course, these wrinkled Sons of Time
Labour their proper greatness to subdue; 25
Speaking of death alone, beneath a clime
Where life and rapture flow in plenitude sublime.[JH]
Fancy hath flung for me an airy bridge
Across thy long deep Valley, furious Rhone!
Arch that _here_ rests upon the granite ridge 30
Of Monte Rosa--_there_ on frailer stone
Of secondary birth, the Jung-frau's cone;
And, from that arch, down-looking on the Vale
The aspect I behold of every zone;
A sea of foliage, tossing with the gale, 35
Blithe Autumn's purple crown, and Winter's icy mail!
Far as ST. MAURICE, from yon eastern FORKS,[JI]
Down the main avenue my sight can range:
And all its branchy vales, and all that lurks
Within them, church, and town, and hut, and grange, 40
For my enjoyment meet in vision strange;
Snows, torrents;--to the region's utmost bound,
Life, Death, in amicable interchange;--
But list! the avalanche--the hush profound
That follows--yet more awful than that awful sound![572] 45
Is not the chamois suited to his place?
The eagle worthy of her ancestry?
--Let Empires fall; but ne'er shall Ye disgrace
Your noble birthright, ye that occupy
Your council-seats beneath the open sky,[JJ] 50
On Sarnen's Mount,[JK] there judge of fit and right,
In simple democratic majesty;
Soft breezes fanning your rough brows--the might
And purity of nature spread before your sight!
From this appropriate Court, renowned LUCERNE 55
Calls[573] me to pace her honoured Bridge[JL]--that cheers
The Patriot's heart with pictures rude and stern,
An uncouth Chronicle of glorious years.
Like portraiture, from loftier source, endears
That work of kindred frame, which spans the lake 60
Just at the point of issue, where it fears
The form and motion of a stream to take;
Where it begins to stir, _yet_ voiceless as a snake.[JM]
Volumes of sound, from the Cathedral rolled,
This long-roofed Vista penetrate--but see, 65
One after one, its tablets, that unfold
The whole design of Scripture history;
From the first tasting of the fatal Tree,
Till the bright Star appeared in eastern skies,
Announcing, ONE was born mankind to free; 70
His acts, his wrongs, his final sacrifice;
Lessons for every heart, a Bible for all eyes.
_Our_ pride misleads, our timid likings kill.
--Long may these homely Works devised of old,
These simple efforts of Helvetian skill, 75
Aid, with congenial influence, to uphold
The State,--the Country's destiny to mould;
Turning, for them who pass, the common dust
Of servile opportunity to gold;
Filling the soul with sentiments august-- 80
The beautiful, the brave, the holy, and the just!
No more; Time halts not in his noiseless march--
Nor turns, nor winds, as doth the liquid flood;
Life slips from underneath us, like that arch
Of airy workmanship whereon we stood,[574] 85
Earth stretched below, heaven in our neighbourhood.
Go forth, my little Book! pursue thy way;
Go forth, and please the gentle and the good;
Nor be a whisper stifled, if it say
That treasures, yet untouched, may grace some future Lay. 90
Mrs. Wordsworth's Journal of this Continental Tour contains the modest
entry, made at "Paris, Monday, Oct. 2nd.--... I shall here close these
very imperfect notices, commenced at D.'s request; and with a notion, on
my part, that they might be useful when she wrote her Journal: but soon
finding that, with such a view, mine was a superfluous labour, I should
not have had the resolution to go on, except at Wm.'s desire, and from
the feeling that my Daughter, and perhaps her brothers, might one day
find pleasure, should they ever have the good fortune to trace our
steps, in recognising objects their Mother had seen."
See Dorothy Wordsworth's Itinerary of the Tour (Note A), in the Appendix
to this volume.--ED.
VARIANTS:
[Footnote 572: 1827.
... heart-striking sound!
Tumult by prompt repose and awful silence crown'd! 1822.
]
[Footnote 573: 1827.
Leads ... 1822.
]
[Footnote 574: 1827.
And those surrounding Mountains--but no more;
Time creepeth softly as the liquid flood;
Life slips from underneath us, like the floor
Of that wide rainbow-arch whereon we stood, 1822.
]
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote JH: In the third of the Desultory Stanzas I am indebted to Mr.
Raymond, who has written with genuine feeling on these subjects.--W. W.
1822.]
[Footnote JI: Les Fourches, the point at which the two chains of
mountains part, that enclose the Valais, which terminates at St.
Maurice.--W. W. 1822.
At the head of the Vallais.--W. W. 1827.]
[Footnote JJ: Compare the sonnet _Tynwald Hill_, in the "Poems composed
or suggested during a Tour in the Summer of 1833."--ED.]
[Footnote JK: In the edition of 1822 there is the following note, the
reference being to "Ye who convoked in Sarnen occupy," a reading which
does not occur in that or in any other edition.--ED.
Sarnen, one of the two Capitals of the Canton of Underwalden; the spot
here alluded to is close to the town, and is called the Landenberg, from
the Tyrant of that name, whose chateau formerly stood there. On the 1st
of Jan. 1308, the great day which the confederated Heroes had chosen for
the deliverance of their Country, all the Castles of the Governors were
taken by force or stratagem; and the Tyrants themselves conducted, with
their Creatures, to the frontiers, after having witnessed the
destruction of their Strong-holds. From that time the Landenberg has
been the place where the Legislators of this division of the Canton
assemble. The site, which is well described by Ebel, is one of the most
beautiful in Switzerland.--W. W. 1822.
"Sarnen, Aug. 14.--... The buildings we have been to visit are
Government Houses. There all business relating to the canton is
transacted. The meetings are sometimes held in the open air: a green
area is set apart, with steps around for this purpose. Marks to shoot
at, bowls, etc., are here ready, for the days of festival," etc. (Mrs.
Wordsworth's Journal.)]
[Footnote JL: The Bridges of Lucerne are roofed, and open at the sides,
so that the Passenger has, at the same time, the benefit of shade, and a
view of the magnificent Country. The Pictures are attached to the
rafters; those from Scripture History on the Cathedral-bridge, amount,
according to my notes, to 240. Subjects from the Old Testament face the
Passenger as he goes towards the Cathedral, and those from the New as he
returns. The pictures on these Bridges, as well as those in most other
parts of Switzerland, are not to be spoken of as works of art; but they
are instruments admirably answering the purpose for which they were
designed.--W. W. 1822.
"Lucerne, 16th Aug.--... Crossed, at the outlet of the Lake, the _long
covered Bridge_, along the roof of which are 240 Paintings from the
Scriptures: Subjects from the Old Testament face you, as you walk one
way, and from the New as you return. Two other bridges of the same kind,
the Chapel-bridge, with paintings from Swiss history. Fine views from
the Bridge of the Lake, and mountains," etc. (Mrs. Wordsworth's
Journal.)]
[Footnote JM: Compare _The Idiot Boy_, ll. 405-6--
The little birds began to stir,
Though yet their tongues were still.
ED.
]
APPENDIX
NOTE A
The following Itinerary of the Continental Tour of 1820 was appended by
Dorothy Wordsworth to the first volume of her Journal of that Tour. I
retain her spelling of the names of places.--ED.