this you will require the same frame as that used for the touring-car,
with the clockworks and belt-wheels attached in the same manner. If you
have made the touring-car, remove the cardboard sides from its wooden
frame, separating the cardboard from the wood carefully so you can put
the machine together again when you wish. If you haven't made this
automobile, you will find the details for the construction of the frame
in Figs. 161 and 162, and the manner of performing the work described on
pages 104 to 107.
[Illustration: FIG. 175.--An Automobile Delivery Wagon.]
=The Cardboard Sides= are much easier to prepare than those for the
touring-car, as they are straight and require but little cutting. The
outline for these is shown in Fig. 175, surrounding the drawing of the
completed wagon. Lay out one side upon a piece of cardboard, using the
dimensions given upon the drawing, and then place it upon a board and
cut it out with your knife. Using this as a pattern, place it upon
another piece of cardboard and run a pencil around its edges, thus
marking out the second side. In cutting out the latter piece, run your
knife a little inside of the line in order to allow for the increase
in size caused by marking it out with the first cardboard side. Having
prepared the two sides, draw panels upon them in some such form as
shown in the illustration, separating them with three lines. Draw a
small window, with its top slightly arched, near the front edge of
each side, and cut an opening for it (see illustration).
Glue the sides to the edges of the truck in the same manner as those of
the touring-car were done, piercing holes for the posts of the clockwork
to fit in, and openings for the belt-wheels to project through, in the
left side. Cut a piece of cardboard for the back of the wagon, fit it
between the sides, and fasten it in place by gluing a number of linen
strips to it and the sides upon the inner or unexposed surfaces. Then
cut a piece of cardboard for the roof, making it about two inches longer
than the sides, to give it the proper projection over the front of the
wagon. Fasten this piece in position in the same manner as you fastened
the back of the wagon.
Make the floor and footboard for the wagon out of a piece of cardboard
bent as shown in Fig. 175, and fasten it across the top edges of the
projecting portions of the sides with linen strips. Cut a strip for a
seat, and fit it between the sides an inch and one-half above the floor.
=The Wheels= of an automobile wagon contain fourteen spokes, but as you
have the pattern for the touring-car wheels of twelve spokes, you can
just as well use it in making the wagon wheels. They should be mounted
upon the sides of the wagon, a trifle above the bottoms of the spool
wheels, as shown in the illustration, so they will not touch the carpet
when the machine is operated.
=All Other Portions= of the wagon should be made of the same patterns
given for the touring-car, viz. the chauffeur (Figs. 169 and 170), the
steering-wheel (Figs. 167 and 174), the brake (Fig. 160), and the lamps
(Fig. 166). As the legs of the chauffeur will show, it will be necessary
to cut a pair out of cardboard (the drawing shows the shape clearly
enough to work by) and fasten them to his body. Fasten the chauffeur
upon the seat and glue his left hand to the steering-wheel, placing the
latter in front of him, as shown in the drawing. Stick the lower end of
the cardboard upright of the steering-wheel upon a pin run through the
wagon floor from the under side. Glue the upper end of the brake to the
chauffeur's hand and the lower end to the side of the wagon.
=Paint the Wagon= with water colors, making the sides, end, and roof
olive green, the steering-wheel, brake, and spokes of wheels black, and
the lamps yellow or the color of brass. In painting the sides show the
battery compartments upon them below what would properly be the bottom
of the wagon (see illustration). Leave the cardboard white below this
box, as it represents no portion of the machine, but is necessarily
brought down so far to conceal the wooden frame. It will give the
machine a more finished appearance if, after painting, you go over it
with black paint and a fine brush and stripe the panels upon the sides,
following the lines which you drew upon them with a pencil. Letter the
word "Delivery" upon the center panel of each side, and the firm name in
the small panel between the lamp and window.
By attaching a set of clockworks in the same manner as described for the
automobiles, you can make
=A Clockwork Railway=, constructing the cars similar to the street car
shown in Fig. 84, Chapter VI, and using the schemes in the same chapter
for the tracks and depots.
Each car should be provided with a clockwork motor, because a single
clockwork is not strong enough to pull more than one car. Let me know
how you succeed in building a clockwork railway.
CHAPTER XI
HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS
An entire volume might be filled with plans for electrical toys and yet
not exhaust the innumerable forms that are within the ability of a boy
to construct. There is room in this chapter for only a few, and I have
selected simple ideas, those that can be carried out by a boy having no
knowledge of working with electricity, with materials that can be
obtained at an expenditure of little or nothing. Thus every boy will be
able to make these electrical toys.
=The Electro-Magnet Derrick= shown in Fig. 176 will hoist nails and
other small pieces of hardware from the floor to a table top, and as the
_boom_, or arm, can be swung from side to side, and raised and lowered,
loads can be moved from place to place in the same way as with large
derricks. The toy derrick may be used for loading and unloading toy
wagons, carts, and trains of cars, provided, of course, you use iron or
steel of some sort for your loads. It is easy enough to get nails,
brads, tacks, and odd pieces of hardware for the purpose. The model from
which Fig. 176 was made has lifted a bunch of two hundred and
eighty-four brads 3/8 inch long. By using smaller brads, or tacks, a
much larger number could be lifted.
The first part of the toy to construct is
=The Electro-Magnet.= The difference between an electro-magnet and the
toy variety of horse-shoe magnet with which every boy is familiar, is
that the electro-magnet retains its magnetism only so long as an
electric current is passing around it, while the steel magnet retains
its influence permanently, after being magnetized, unless it happens to
be demagnetized by subjection to heat, or in some other way.
[Illustration: FIG. 176.--An Electro-Magnet Derrick.]
Figures 177 to 179 show the details for making a simple home-made
electro-magnet.
An electro-magnet consists of a center _core_ of soft iron, wrapped with
a coil of insulated wire. When an electric current passes over a wire, a
_magnetic field_ is formed around the wire; and when several turns of
insulated wire are wrapped about a soft iron core, the magnetic fields
of all the turns of the coil, or _helix_, combine, forming a very strong
magnetic field which strongly magnetizes the iron core. As I have said
before, this magnet loses its magnetic influence the instant the current
ceases to pass through the surrounding coil of wire.
[Illustration: FIGS. 177-179.--The Electro-Magnet.]
You will need a machine-bolt or carriage-bolt 2-1/2 or 3 inches long,
and 1/4 inch in diameter, for the core of the magnet, some insulated
electric-bell wire for the coil, and a piece of heavy cardboard. Cut
three washers of a trifle larger diameter than the bolt-head, out of the
piece of cardboard (Fig. 178), and slip these over the bolt as shown in
Fig. 179--one at the bolt-head end, the other two at the nut end; then
screw the nut on to the end of the bolt.
[Illustration: FIG. 180.--How the Electro-Magnet is Connected up.]
Before starting to wind the insulated wire upon the bolt, pierce two
holes through the inner cardboard washer of the two at the nut end. Then
stick the end of the wire through one of these holes, and pull a length
of 4 or 5 inches of the wire out between the two washers. Starting at
this end of the bolt, then, wind the wire around the bolt, keeping the
turns even and each turn pressed close against the preceding turn. When
the washer at the head end of the bolt has been reached, wind back to
the starting point; then wind back to the washer at the head a second
time, and again back to the starting point; and so on until six or eight
layers of wire have been wound in place. An even number of layers will
bring the free end of the wire back to the double-washer end. Slip this
end through the second hole in the inner washer, and bring it out
between the two washers, as you did the first end. Then screw the
bolt-nut tight against the washers, to hold the wire ends in place (Fig.
177). The outer cardboard washer will prevent the nut from chafing the
insulation on the wire ends.
Now connect the ends of the coil to the binding-posts of a battery cell,
and you will be surprised to find what a strong magnet the head of the
bolt core has become.
One end of the magnet coil should be connected to a dry-cell, and the
other to a switch; and another wire should connect the switch with the
dry-cell (Fig. 180).
=A Home-made Switch= that is easily made is shown in Fig. 181. Cut
strips _A_, _B_, and _C_ (Fig. 182) from a tomato can. Tack the turned
up ends of _A_ to a wooden knob (_D_). This forms the switch lever.
Strips _B_ and _C_, folded in half, and punched near the ends, form the
binding-post plates.
[Illustration: FIG. 181.--A Home-made Switch.]
[Illustration: FIG. 182.--Details of Switch.]
Figures 181 and 182 show how to mount the lever and binding-post plates
upon the switch base. Pivot lever _A_ with a small screw passed through
a hole punched near its end, and through the hole near the folded end of
plate _C_. Fasten plate _B_ with a rug-tack (_F_) so the lever will come
in contact with it. Screw-eyes _E_ form the binding-posts.
[Illustration: FIG. 183.--Detail of Mast.]
[Illustration: FIG. 184.--Detail of Pulley.]
[Illustration: FIG. 185.--Detail of Boom.]
Instead of using a separate base, the switch can be mounted as shown in
Fig. 176, upon the base of
=The Derrick=. Cut the base about 8 inches wide and 10 inches long (_A_,
Fig. 176). The _mast_ (_B_) is a piece of broom-handle or curtain-pole
16 inches long, and fits loosely in a hole bored in the base. Figure 183
shows a detail of the mast. The _pulley_ upon its upper end (_C_) is
made of two spool-ends nailed together (Fig. 184), and it turns upon the
axle _D_, which slips through holes in the _plates E_ nailed to the end
of the mast. The _lever F_ sticks in a hole in the mast, close to the
platform. This is used to swing the _boom_ from side to side. Screw-eye
_G_ is placed several inches above _F_ to serve the purpose of a pulley
to guide the hoisting cables.
Figure 185 shows a detail of the _boom_. Cut the side sticks _H_ 18
inches long, and fasten between them the _separators I_, which should be
just long enough to allow clearance for the _spool pulley J_. The pulley
is mounted on the axle _K_. Screw the lower ends of the boom to the
mast, at a point 2-1/2 inches above the base.
=The Windlass= for raising the derrick boom, and for hoisting the loads,
is shown in detail in Fig. 186. Bore a hole through upright _L_ for the
axle _M_ to stick through, and cut axle _M_ enough smaller than the
spool drums _N_ so they will turn easily. Fasten a crank and handle to
one end of each spool, and drive a brad through each end of the axle to
prevent the drums from sliding off. Cut four notches in the inner flange
of each spool, as shown, and pivot the catches _O_ to the post _L_, in
the positions indicated, so they may be thrown into the notches to lock
the windlass (Fig. 176).
[Illustration: FIG. 186.--Detail of Derrick Windlass.]
=The Hoisting Cables= should be made of strong cord. Fasten one end of
the cable for raising the boom to a nail (P, Fig. 176), and run this
cord up and over the mast pulley, then down through screw-eye _G_ and
over to one drum; tie it securely to the drum so it will not slip
around. The other cable should be fastened between the nut and washer
of the magnet, as shown in Fig. 180, run up and over the boom pulley
_J_, then through screw-eye _G_, and tied to the second drum.
Figure 176 shows how the dry-cell may be strapped to the base board in
front of the mast, and how the wires that connect the electro-magnet,
switch, and cell should be twisted around the hoisting cable, part way,
and the remainder of their length allowed to hang. Be sure to cut the
wires long enough to reach from a table-top down to the floor. Use
flexible wire if you can get it.
By mounting the base upon spool wheels, your derrick can be moved along
a table-top. Spool-ends may be used for the wheels, and can either be
screwed to the edge of the base, or be fastened upon axles as the wheels
of the _Electric Motor Truck_ are fastened (Figs. 203 and 208).
=How the Derrick Works.= It is probably unnecessary to explain that a
load is picked up by throwing over the switch lever to the contact point
and closing the circuit, and that it is dropped by throwing off the
switch lever and opening the circuit--which causes the electro-magnet to
lose its magnetism.
=A Toy Shocking Machine.=.The little shocking machine shown in Fig. 187
is a harmless toy with which you can have an endless amount of fun when
entertaining friends. The shock it produces is not severe, but strong
enough to make your friend's arm and wrist muscles twitch, and perhaps
cause him to dance. Large shocking coils contract the muscles to such an
extent that it is impossible to let go of the metal grips until the
current has been shut off, but in our small shocking machine the handles
can be dropped the instant the person holding them wishes to do so.
[Illustration: FIG. 187.--Detail of the Toy Shocking Machine.]
The shocking machine consists of an _induction-coil_, an _interrupter_,
and a pair of _handles_, all of which are easy for a boy to make, and a
_wet_ or _dry battery_ of one or two cells to furnish the current.
[Illustration: FIGS, 188-191.--Details of Induction-Coil.]
=The Induction-Coil= is the first part to make. This is shown in detail
in Figs. 188 to 191. The coil has windings of two sizes of wire upon an
iron core. For the core buy a 5/16-inch carriage-bolt 2-1/2 inches long,
and for the wire coils get some No. 20- or 24-gauge electric-bell
insulated copper wire, and some No. 30-gauge insulated magnet-wire. To
keep the wire from slipping off the ends of the bolt core, cut two
cardboard ends about 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Slip one of these on to
the bolt next to the head, and the other one next to the nut, as shown
in Fig. 188.
Three layers of the coarse wire should be wound on first, for
=The Primary-Coil.= Pierce a hole through one cardboard end, stick the
wire through it, and allow about 5 inches to project upon the outside;
then commence winding the wire upon the core, placing each turn close to
the preceding turn. When the opposite end of the bolt has been reached,
wind back to the starting point, then work back to the other end again.
There will be in the neighborhood of 175 turns in the three layers. Cut
off the wire so there will be a 5-inch projection, and stick the
projecting end through a hole in the cardboard end. This completes the
primary-coil (Fig. 189).
Before winding the small wire on top of the primary-coil, to form
=The Secondary-coil=, wrap the primary-coil with a layer of bicycle
tape, or glue several layers of paper around the coil. Then wind on the
small wire as you did the coarser wire, being very careful to get it on
evenly and smoothly. Wind eleven layers on the coil, and run the end of
the eleventh layer out through the cardboard end (Fig. 190). There
should be about 100 turns of this wire to the layer, or 1100 turns in
all.
A crank arrangement can be rigged up to make the winding easier, but
with patience, and by doing the work slowly, the wire can be wound
almost as well by hand. It is difficult to keep track of each preceding
turn, while winding, because of the fineness of the wire, and on this
account it is a good scheme to coat each layer with bluing after it has
been wound on, so that each turn of the following layer will show
plainly against the stained layer beneath it. Figure 190 shows the
complete induction-coil.
Cut a base block 5 inches wide and 7 inches long, bevel the top edges to
give it a trim appearance, and mount the induction-coil to one side of
the center (Fig. 187), strapping it in place by means of two tin straps
similar to that shown in Fig. 191, cut from a tin can.
The projecting ends of the primary-coil connect with the battery, while
the two ends of the secondary-coil connect with the handles. Make three
binding-post plates out of folded pieces of tin, similar to plates _B_
and _C_, in Fig. 182. Tack two of these to the end of the base and
connect the secondary-coil wires to them (Fig. 187), and tack the third
near one end of the induction-coil and connect one primary-coil wire to
it (Fig. 187).
=For the Handles= take two pieces of broom-handle 3-1/2 inches long, and
cover each with a piece of tin (Fig. 192). The pattern for the tin
covering (Fig. 193) shows how tabs are prepared on the ends and holes
punched through them for connecting with the induction-coil. The
connecting wires should be 5 or 6 feet long. Flexible wire is better
than bell-wire for these, because it is more easily handled in passing
the handles around. Tack the tin covering to the pieces of
broom-handle.
[Illustration: FIGS. 192 and 193.--Details of Shocking-coil Handles.]
The purpose of the induction-coil is to raise the voltage of the
battery. The flow of current must be an interrupted one, in order to
shock, and therefore
=An Interrupter= must be inserted between the battery and one of the
wires leading to the primary-coil of the induction-coil. There are
several ways to construct an interrupter, but the scheme which I have
invented for the model of this shocking-machine (Fig. 187) serves the
purpose nicely, and is a neat appearing little piece of apparatus. This
interrupter is easily constructed as you will see by the working details
shown in Figs. 194 to 198.
[Illustration: FIG. 194.--Interrupter for Shocking-coil.]
Cut the base block _A_ 1-1/2 inches wide and 2-1/2 inches long. Make the
shaft _B_ 2-3/4 inches long and of a diameter equal to the hole in a
thread spool; and prepare the crank _C_ to fit on the end, and drive a
brad into it for a handle. Fasten the crank to the shaft with glue, or
by driving a small brad through the two. The shaft supports _D_ should
be prepared as shown in Fig. 196, 1-1/4 inches wide across the bottom,
5/8 inch wide at the top, and 1-3/4 inches high. Bore a hole through
each, a little below the top, and large enough so the shaft will turn
easily, and fasten these supports with brads to the sides of base _A_.
Drive eight brads into a thread spool, spacing them equidistant from one
another, and mount this spool upon the shaft (_E_, Fig. 194), first
slipping the shaft through one support, then through the spool, and then
through the other support. Drive the spool brads a trifle into the shaft
to hold the spool in position.
The projecting arm _F_ (Fig. 194) is a strip of tin cut from a can, and
must be long enough so each nail-head will strike its end when spool _E_
is revolved. Drive a nail into base _A_, at _G_, and, after bending
strip _F_ as shown in Fig. 198, fasten it with brads upon the top of an
upright made similar to _H_ (Fig. 197), and nail this upright to the end
of base _A_. The upper end of strip _F_ must be bent so it will bear
down upon the head of nail _G_.
The wire from the primary-coil which is as yet not connected should be
attached to nail _G_, and one battery wire should be connected to a
binding-post plate _I_ fastened to the lower end of strip _F_. Figure
198 shows how the binding-post plate is made out of a doubled piece of
tin, with a hole punched through it for a small binding-screw.
This completes the interrupter. Mount it beside the induction-coil upon
the base block, and connect it with the battery and the induction-coil,
as shown in Fig. 187. Connect the battery cells in series. Two cells
will be enough.
[Illustration: FIGS. 195-198.--Details of Interrupter.]
=How the Interrupter Works.= When you turn the crank of the interrupter,
each nail in spool _E_ raises the end of strip _F_, in passing it, thus
breaking the electrical contact between it and the head of nail _G_. If
the strip has been bent properly, it will spring back into contact with
the head of nail _G_, and each time the contact is made, the person
holding the handles will receive a shock. The strength of the current
can be regulated somewhat by the speed with which the interrupter crank
is turned. The shocks are stronger and more distinct when the crank is
turned slowly.
Home-made electrical toys of a light construction are easily operated by
a toy motor, when the motor and battery cell are not carried by the toy;
but when both are transported, as in the case of a wagon, the
construction must be very carefully worked out, or the motor will not be
powerful enough to drive the wheels.
=The Toy Electric Motor Truck= shown in Fig. 199 is of light
construction, the axle bearings produce very little friction, and the
battery is light and of a powerful type.
[Illustration: FIG. 199.--A Toy Electric Motor Truck.]
Get an oblong shaped cigar-box for the _bed_ and _sides_ of the truck,
several large thread spools for _wheels_ and _pulleys_, two small
silk-thread spools, four lead-pencils, or sticks whittled perfectly
round and 1/4 inch in diameter, for _axles_, _belt-shaft_, and
_steering-wheel post_, and six screw-eyes 5/16 inch in diameter for the
_bearings_.
First, place the cigar-box in a wash-boiler or wash-tub of hot water,
and allow it to remain there until the paper labels have soaked off or
loosened sufficiently so they can be scraped off with a knife.
[Illustration: FIG. 200.--Top view of Electric Motor Truck.]
Then, after the box has thoroughly dried, cut the two strips _A_ (Fig.
208), and fasten them to the bottom, one at each side. Screw the
screw-eye axle bearings into these strips. Place them at equal distances
from the ends of the strips.
=The Wheels= are made from the flange ends of the large spools. Figure
202 shows the front pencil axle. Slip the center portion of one of the
large spools on to this for a pulley, then stick the pencil ends
through the screw-eyes in strips _A_, and glue the spool-end wheels on
to them. The rear axle is like the front one, with the spool pulley
omitted (Fig. 203).
=The Upper Shaft= shown in Fig. 201 supports a spool pulley like the one
on the front axle, and its screw-eye bearings should be screwed into the
top edge of the sides of the box (Fig. 200), directly over the front
axle. Slip a silk-spool on to each end of this shaft to keep its ends
from slipping out of the screw-eyes.
[Illustration: FIGS. 201-203.--Details of Axle and Belt Shaft.]
=The Belts.= As you will see by Figs. 200 to 202, the upper large pulley
is belted to the motor pulley, and another belt extends from the upper
shaft down to the pulley on the front axle. Rubber-bands make the best
belts. Cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar-box for the belt
extending from the upper shaft to the front axle to pass through. Screw
the toy motor to the cigar-box with its pulley directly in line with the
upper shaft pulley. Wrap the spool pulleys with bicycle-tape, to keep
the rubber-band belts from slipping.
=The Battery.= A dry battery is too heavy for the motor truck to carry;
so we must make a special two-cell battery like that shown in Fig. 204.
Two glass tumblers to hold the solution, a pair of battery zincs, a pair
of carbons, and a bi-chromate of potash solution, are needed. Old
battery zinc pencils with several inches of the eaten end cut off (Fig.
206) will do for the zincs, and the carbons from worn-out dry-battery
cells cut to a corresponding length will do for the carbons. Fasten
together the zincs and carbons with rubber-bands, as shown in Fig. 207,
after wrapping a piece of bicycle-tape around the upper end of the
carbon and inserting a small wad of it between the lower ends of the
carbons and zincs, to keep them from touching one another.
[Illustration: FIG. 204.--Two Home-made Battery Cells Connected in
Series.]
Figure 205 shows a completed cell, and Fig. 204 how the two cells are
connected in _series_, that is, with the carbon of one connected to the
zinc of the other. Twisting the connecting wires into coils, as shown,
is a good method of taking up the slack.
[Illustration: FIG. 205.--A Single Cell.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 206 and 207.--Details of Zinc and Carbon.]
=The Bi-chromate Battery Fluid= is made up of bi-chromate of potash,
sulphuric acid, and water, in the following proportions:
4 ounces of bi-chromate of potash
4 ounces of sulphuric acid
1 quart of water
In making up this solution, first add the acid to the water,--_never add
the water to the acid_--and then, when the solution is nearly cool, add
the bi-chromate of potash. Pour the acid into the water slowly, because
the combination of the two creates a great deal of heat, and if the
heat forms too quickly your glass bottle is likely to split. Label the
bottle in which you put this solution POISON.
As the bi-chromate solution attacks the zinc element of a cell even when
the current is not being drawn upon, the zinc should be removed when the
cell is not in use.
=Amalgamating a Zinc Pencil.= To reduce the eating away of a zinc pencil
used in a bi-chromate solution, the zinc should be amalgamated by
rubbing a thin coat of mercury over its surface. Dip the zinc into the
solution, first, then with a rag dipped in the solution rub the mercury
on to it.
Cut an opening through the cigar-box large enough for the two tumblers
to set in. Then cut a strip of tin about 1 inch wide and 8 inches long,
and bend it into a U-shaped hanger, to support the tumbler bottoms. Slip
the hanger ends under strips _A_, bend them against the sides of the
box, and fasten with tacks (Figs. 208 and 209).
[Illustration: FIG. 208.--Plan of Motor Truck Bottom.]
[Illustration: FIG. 209.--Section through Bottom.]
Figure 200 shows how the battery cells are connected. A small switch can
be fastened to the side of the truck to shut off and turn on the
current, but, instead, you can simply withdraw one pair of elements from
its tumbler to shut off the current. When through playing with the
truck, however, it is important to remove both pairs of elements and
wash them off, because the bi-chromate solution attacks the zinc
elements even when the current is not in use. As the bi-chromate
solution stains very badly, it is advisable to operate the motor truck
only where there is no danger of ruining anything in case some of the
solution spills, as in the basement or workshop. If you wish to use a
dry-cell instead of the pair of bi-chromate cells, you can place the
cell upon the floor and make the wires connecting it to the motor long
enough so the truck can run back and forth across a room.
[Illustration: FIG. 210--Details of Seat and Canopy-top.]
=The Seat and Canopy-top= details are shown in Fig. 210. Make these in
about the proportion to the cigar-box shown in Fig. 199. Fasten the seat
to the edge of the seat-back _B_ with glue and brads, and then fasten
the side pieces _A_ to the ends of the seat. The dashboard _E_ is nailed
to the bottom piece _D_, and _D_ is nailed to the lower ends of side
pieces _A_. Figure 211 shows the pattern for the canopy-top. Make it of
light-weight cardboard, or heavy writing-paper. Slash the ends as shown;
then turn down the corners, and lap and glue them to form the
turned-down canopy ends. Fasten the ends to the canopy uprights with
tacks.
[Illustration: FIG. 211.--Pattern of Canopy-top.]
=The Seat-arms= are pieces of bent wire, with their ends stuck into
holes in the canopy uprights and front edge of the seat.
=The Steering-wheel= is a section of a spool 1/8 inch thick, and is
glued upon the end of a pencil or a stick. Run the lower end of the
pencil through a hole in the bottom of _D_ (Fig. 210). For
=The Levers=, fasten two small sticks to the end of the bottom piece _D_
with small staples.
CHAPTER XII
A HOME-MADE TOY SHOOTING GALLERY
[Illustration: FIG. 212.--The Completed Toy Shooting Gallery.]
This interesting toy, with its funny animal targets, and a harmless
pistol with which to shoot at them, will provide an endless amount of
fun for a winter's evening or stormy afternoon.
Figure 212 shows the completed toy, and Fig. 213 the box that forms
=The Framework.= The targets can be arranged to suit the form of box
that you find, and the number may be increased or decreased to suit the
space.
[Illustration: FIG. 213.--The Box Framework.]
The right position for the box is upon its side so its open top forms
the front of the target box (Fig. 213). The horizontal piece _A_ (Fig.
213) is fastened between the ends of the box, to support targets. It is
held in place by nails driven through the box ends into its ends. If
your box is much larger than the one shown in the illustration, you can
provide two crosspiece supports for targets, instead of one.
=The Circular Target= should be drawn upon a piece of cardboard with a
compass, or, by marking around a cup or small saucer to make the outer
circle, marking around a can cover for the second circle, and a coin for
the center circle. Blacken the outside and center rings with ink, or by
rubbing with a soft pencil.
[Illustration: FIGS. 214-215.--Details of Targets.]
Figure 214 shows how the target should be hinged in place to the
horizontal strip _A_. Tack or glue the lower edge of the piece of
cardboard to a block of wood _B_. Then cut a hinge-strip out of a piece
of dress lining, and either tack or glue one-half of it to block _B_ and
the other half to the target support _A_.
=The Animal Targets= are made with pictures cut from magazines and
newspapers. The pictures should be colored with crayons or water-colors,
to make them as nearly like their right colors as possible.
After cutting out the pictures, paste them upon cardboard, mount the
pieces of cardboard upon blocks of wood, as shown at _B_ and _C_ (Figs.
214 and 215), and hinge the blocks to the target supports with cloth
strips. _B_ shows the method of hinging the targets to strip _A_, and to
the lower side of the box, and _C_ shows the method of hinging the
targets to the ends of the box. The former targets fall backwards when
struck; the latter targets swing sideways when struck.
[Illustration: FIG. 216.--The Card-shooting Pistol.]
Figure 216 shows
=The Card-shooting Pistol=, and Figs. 217, 218, and 219 show the details
for making it. Cut block _A_ about 8 inches long, and block _B_ about 3
inches long. Nail _A_ to _B_ as shown. Then take two rubber-bands, loop
them together end to end, as shown in Fig. 218, and fasten one end of
the looped bands to the end of block _A_ by means of a nail driven into
the block and bent over as shown in Fig. 217. Cut a piece of cardboard
about I inch square, notch the center of two opposite edges (Fig. 219),
and fit the loop of the free end of the rubber-bands over the piece of
cardboard and into the notches, as shown in Figs. 217 and 218. This
completes the pistol.
The toy pistol shoots small squares of cardboard, placed in it as shown
in Figs. 216 and 218, with one corner slipped beneath the rubber-band
loop.
=Number the Targets= as shown in Fig. 212, marking the circular target
"25," four of the animal targets "10," and the remaining four "5." Each
number represents the score of that particular target.
[Illustration: FIGS. 217-219.--Detail of Card-shooting Pistol.]
=When Shooting=, stand 3 or 4 feet away from the target box. Aim at the
circular target, because that one counts the most. If you miss it, there
is the chance, of course, of hitting one of the other targets below or
to one side of it and making a smaller score.
CHAPTER XIII
A HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE
There is nothing more interesting to build than a doll-house, and the
construction is within the ability of the average girl. If brother is
willing to lend a hand with the carpenter work so much the better.
Sister can attend to the finishing and furnishing, which are important
parts of the work that she can do more handily than a boy can. But there
is no reason why either a girl or boy cannot undertake a doll-house like
that shown in Figs. 220 and 221, and carry the work to a successful
completion, by carefully following the instructions and diagrams in this
chapter.
=The Building Material.= The doll-house in the photographs was built of
packing cases. You can buy these at a drygoods store at 15 or 20 cents
apiece.
=The Floor Plans= are shown in Figs. 222, 223, and 224. Your boxes may
make it necessary to alter the dimensions given, but that will be simple
to do. Patterns for
=The Partitions= are shown in Figs. 225 and 226. In cutting the
second-floor partitions (Fig. 226), miter one edge of _E_ and _F_ to
allow for the bedroom door opening, shown upon the plan, and miter the
edges of _G_ to fit between them above the door. The mitering is shown
in the drawings (Fig. 226).
Besides cutting a stair opening in the second floor, make an opening
three by five inches in the second and third floors for
=The Elevator-shaft.= Care must be taken to have these openings exactly
over one another. Make the opening in the second floor six by eight
inches in the place indicated upon the plan. This will allow for the
elevator shaft and stairway. No stairway has been built to the third
story, as the elevator serves the purpose, and one would take up too
much of the ball-room space.
=The Side Walls= should measure nineteen inches wide by twenty-four
inches high, and the other two walls thirty inches wide by twenty-four
inches high. That portion of
=The Rear Wall= enclosing the kitchen and bathroom is hinged to open
(see Fig. 222), and
=The Front Wall= is made in two sections, each hinged to a strip of wood
an inch and one-half wide nailed to the two edges of the house, as shown
in Fig. 220.
=The Windows= are four by five inches, so four-by-five camera plates can
be used for the glass.
=The Roof= had best be made in two sections, each measuring twenty-eight
inches long by twenty-four inches wide. Fasten the boards together with
battens on the under side and, after mitering the upper edge of each,
nail them to the house so that the ridge is fifteen inches above the
third floor. Then nail a board nineteen inches long by ten
inches wide in the peak of the roof (_D_ in Fig. 228), and
a narrow strip three inches from each side wall (_K_ and _L_ in Fig.
224). These cut off the triangular shape of the ball-room and give it a
better appearance.
[Illustration: FIG. 220. THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 221. INTERIOR VIEW OF DOLL-HOUSE.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 222-226.--Plans of Doll-house and Patterns for
Partitions.]
=The Chimney= is a solid block of wood with narrow strips nailed to all
sides near the top (Fig. 227). Make it eight or ten inches long, and cut
off the bottom to fit the slant of the roof. Paint the block red, and
mark off the mortar joints in white.
=An Elevator= is something which is found in but few doll-houses. It was
built in this house, thinking it might please the young mistress, and it
proved such a success that the scheme has been worked out carefully in
Figs. 228, 229, 230, 231, and 232, that you may include it in the house
you build.
[Illustration: FIG. 227.--The Chimney.]
The cutting of the elevator-shaft has already been described. For
material, procure two small pulleys such as is shown in Fig. 230, four
feet of brass chain, six feet of No. 12 wire, half a dozen
double-pointed tacks or very small screw-eyes, a short piece of lead
pipe, and a cigar-box. Make
[Illustration: FIG. 228.--Front View of Elevator-shaft and Stairs.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 229-232.--Details of the Elevator.]
=The Car= out of the cigar-box, cutting it down to two and one-quarter
inches wide, three and three-quarters inches deep, and seven inches high
(see Fig. 231). Place two of the double-pointed tacks or screw-eyes in
each side of the car for the guide-wires to run through and another in
the center of the top from which to attach the brass chain.
=The Guide-wires= are made of very heavy wire that will not bend easily.
Cut two of a length to reach from the first floor to the ball-room
ceiling, and after running them through the tacks in the sides of the
car, stick their ends into small holes bored at _E_, _F_, _G_, and _H_
(Fig. 228). The upper holes should be bored through the ball-room
ceiling, while the lower ones need be bored but part way through the
first floor. Care must be taken to have these holes in the correct
position, so the elevator will run up and down upon the wires without
striking the sides of the shaft. The easiest way of fastening the wires
in place is to run the upper ends through the holes, until the lower
ends can be set into their sockets, and then drive two double-pointed
tacks over the top of each wire, as shown at _E_ and _F_ in Fig. 228.
Now run the elevator up to the top of the shaft, and mark upon the
ceiling where the screw-eye in the top of the car strikes. At this point
bore a hole through the ceiling and two inches back of it bore another
hole, through which to run the weight-chain. When this has been done,
cut a short block of wood to fit the peak of the roof and
=Screw the Pulleys= into it two inches apart (Fig. 229). Fit the block
in the peak of the roof, centering the front pulley over the top of the
car as nearly as possible, and drive a couple of nails through the roof
boards into it to hold it in place temporarily. Then
=Attach the Chain= to the tack in the top of the car, slip a piece of
lead pipe about an inch long over the chain, allowing it to set on the
top of the car to make the latter heavier (Fig. 231), and run the chain
up through the first hole in the ceiling, over the pulleys, and down
through the second hole. To the end of the chain attach a piece of lead
pipe for
=The Counter-balance= (_C_, Fig. 232). This should be just heavy enough
to make a perfect balance between it and the car, which can be obtained
by whittling off the end of the pipe until the weight of the two is the
same. Make the chain of sufficient length so the weight will rest upon
the first floor when the car is at the third floor. You can now tell
whether or not the pulleys are in the right positions. When they have
been adjusted properly, nail the block firmly in place.
=The Gable-Ends.= The front gable-end consists of four pieces (_A_, _B_,
_C_, and _D_, in Fig. 233), the dimensions for the cutting of which are
given in the illustration. After preparing these, nail _A_, _B_, and _C_
in their proper positions in the gable of the roof, and trim the edges
of _D_, if they need it, to fit between. To prevent the movable section
from pushing in too far, it will be necessary to nail a narrow strip of
wood to the roof and third floor, just inside of it. The rear gable is
made in one piece, and is fastened in place permanently.
[Illustration: FIG. 233.--The Front Gable-End.]
The movable gable and all hinged portions should have
=Spring-Catches= with which to shut up and lock the house (see the
illustrations).
=The Stairway= is shown in Fig. 228, and the details for its
construction will be found in Figs. 234, 235, 236, 237. This stairway is
made in two parts, with a platform between. Cut a block of wood the
shape and size shown in Fig. 234 for the platform, with notches at _A_
and _B_ for the tops of the lower stringers to fit in. Then
=Prepare Two Stringers= of thirteen steps similar to Fig. 235, and two
stringers of five steps similar to Fig. 236, laying off the steps by
means of a cardboard pattern, or _pitch-board_, of the size shown in
Fig. 237. After cutting out these pieces, fasten the tops of the lower
stringers in the notches A and B in the platform, and nail the platform
in its proper position in the corner of the hall. When this has been
done, nail the bottoms of the upper stringers (_E_ in Fig. 236) to the
sides of the platform at _C_ and _D_ (Fig. 234), and set the tops in
notches cut in the edge of the second floor.
=The Treads and Risers= of the steps--the horizontal and vertical
boards--should be cut out of cigar-box wood.
[Illustration: FIGS. 234-237.--Details of Stairs.]
Cut
=The Newel-posts= out of short square blocks, and
=The Hand-rails= out of strips of cigar-box wood. Make a groove in the
under side of the hand-rails to receive the ends of
=The Balusters=, or spindles. Toothpicks are of just the right size for
balusters.
The delicate portions of the stairways should be glued in place. Make
slits in the stair treads to stick the bottoms of the balusters in.
=The Front Steps= are clearly shown in Fig. 220. Make the solid
balustrades out of pieces of box board, and the step treads and risers
out of cigar-box wood. Prepare the rear steps in the same way.
=Cut the Window Openings= in the places indicated upon the plans (Figs.
222 to 224) and the photographs. First bore holes in the four corners of
each window space; then saw from hole to hole with a compass-saw.
Old camera plates are excellent material for
=The Window Glass.= Fasten the glass in the openings with small brads in
the same way that glass is fastened in picture-frames, and putty it in
the same way that window glass is puttied, to hold it firm.
=The Front and Rear Doors= can be painted upon the front of the house.
Openings are not necessary.
=The Outside Trimmings.= Strips of cigar-box wood should be cut up for
the outside door and window casings, and be tacked around the openings
as shown in Fig. 220. Nail a molding or a plain strip of wood to the
front edge of the third floor, as shown in Fig. 220.
=Castors= will make it easier to move the doll-house about. Cut four
blocks of wood, fasten a castor to each, and nail one block inside each
corner of the foundation frame.
=The Interior Woodwork.= Cigar-boxes make excellent hardwood floors. Fit
the pieces close together and fasten with small brads.
Make the door and window casings, picture-moldings, and baseboards out
of strips of cigar-box wood.
After completing the carpenter work of the house,
=Set the Nail-heads=,--that is, drive them below the surface of the
wood,--putty these holes and all cracks and other defective places, and
sandpaper rough surfaces.
=Paint the House= a cream color, with white trimmings and a green roof.
Stripe the foundation walls to indicate courses of stone work. Paint the
front door a mahogany color, with panels indicated upon it, and make the
rear door white. The painting of the chimney has already been described.
The inside walls should be finished as suggested in Chapter XIV. The
woodwork may be oiled, or painted with white enamel or any other color
desired.
=A Colonial Doll-house= with a number of features not included in this
house is described and illustrated in Chapter V of "The Boy Craftsman."
CHAPTER XIV
FURNISHING THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE
With the carpenter work of a doll-house completed, the finishing of the
inside,--wall papering and painting,--and selecting of furnishings for
the various rooms, remain to be done. This requires as much care as the
building of the house, and while any boy can do the work, the help of a
sister will perhaps simplify matters and give to the rooms a daintier
appearance.
=The Walls and Ceiling= of the kitchen and bathroom should be painted
with white lead or white enamel. For the other rooms select paper having
a small design, such as is to be found on most ceiling papers. If you
have ever watched the paper-hanger at work, you have noticed he puts on
the ceiling first, allowing the paper to run down the walls a little way
all around instead of trimming it off. Then he hangs the wall paper, and
if there is no border to cover the joints of the ceiling and wall papers
he carries the wall paper up to the ceiling. Use flour paste to stick on
the paper, and a cloth or photograph-print roller to smooth out the
wrinkles. The dining-room should have a wainscot of dark paper below the
chair-rail, and a paper with little or no figure upon it above.
=All Hardwood Floors=, the stairs, door and window casings, baseboards,
and picture moldings should be varnished thoroughly or given several
coats of boiled linseed-oil.
All floors, with the exception of the kitchen, bathroom, and hardwood
floors, should be fitted with
=Carpets.= If you do not happen to have suitable scraps on hand, they
can be procured at almost any furnishing store where they make up
carpets. Select pieces with as small patterns as possible. The floors of
the bathroom and kitchen should be covered with oilcloth.
=Rugs= for the hardwood floors may be made out of scraps of carpet.
=Window-shades= may be made for each window out of linen, and tacked to
the top casing so that the bottom of the curtain reaches just above the
center of the opening. Each window should also have
=Lace Curtains= made out of scraps of lace. They should either be tacked
above the windows or hung upon poles made out of No. 12 wire, cut in
lengths to fit the windows. Screw small brass hooks into the top
window-casings for the poles to hang upon.
=Handsome Portières= for the doorways can be made with beads and with
the small hollow straws sold for use in kindergartens. For the
=Bead Portières=, cut threads as long as the height of the door and
string the beads upon them, alternating the colors in such a way as to
produce patterns. Then tie the strings together to a piece of wire the
width of the doorway, and fasten the wire in the opening. The
=Straw Portières= are made similarly.
From magazine illustrations you can select
=Suitable Pictures= for each room, but if you are handy with brush and
pencil you may prefer to make the pictures yourself. These may be
mounted upon cardboard and have their edges bound with passe-partout
paper to give the effect of frames, or frames may be cut out of
cardboard and pasted to them. Hang the pictures to the picture molding
with thread.
=A Cosey-corner= may be fitted up in the ball-room by fastening a strip
of a cigar-box in one corner an inch and one-half above the floor for
the seat, and hanging draperies on each side of it. Pillows may be made
for it out of scraps of silk stuffed with cotton.
A doll-house properly proportioned in every detail, including the
selection of its furniture, is pleasing to look at, and is to be desired
much more than some of the specimens to be found in the stores. These
very often have parlor chairs larger than the mantel, beds that either
fill two-thirds of the bedroom space or are so small they are hidden
from view by the chairs, and other furniture accordingly, all having
been selected without any thought as to size or fitness.
Care must be taken, in buying the furniture, to have the pieces suitable
to the rooms. It will no doubt require more time than to purchase the
first sets you come across, but when you have completed the selections,
the result will be a much better appearing doll-house.
By carefully searching the toy-shops you are almost certain of finding
what you want for the various rooms, as about everything imaginable in
furniture has been manufactured. Porcelain bath-tubs, wash-basins with
real faucets and running water, gilt furniture, chandeliers, and such
articles are tempting to buy. But it is rather expensive to fit up a
house in this way, for, though each piece may not amount to very much,
they count up very quickly.
The suggestions for the making of cigar-box furniture in Chapter XVII,
and spool and cardboard furniture in Chapter XIX, will give you plenty
of material for furniture and save you the expense of buying this part
of the furnishings for your house.
CHAPTER XV
A HOME-MADE TOY STABLE
[Illustration: FIG. 238.--Exterior of Stable.]
The stable illustrated in Figs. 238 and 239 is designed in keeping with
the doll-house in Chapter XIII. It is shown in the background of the
photograph of this doll-house (Fig. 220). If you prefer a garage instead
of this stable, you may omit the stalls, and make one or two large
windows in the rear wall in place of the small high windows shown. The
building's construction is very simple. The dimensions are: width,
twenty-four inches; depth, twelve inches; and height, twenty-two inches.
The barn contains five stalls on the ground floor and a hay-loft above.
[Illustration: FIG. 239.--Interior of Stable.]
To build the stable according to the drawings, a box ten by twelve by
twenty-four inches should be procured for
=The First Story.= If you have a box of different proportions it will be
a simple matter to make such alterations in the details as it will
require.
=The Roof= is made in two sections, each fifteen by eighteen inches, and
is fastened to the top of the box so that the peak is twenty-two inches
above the bottom.
=The Gable-End= is made in four pieces, as shown in Fig. 240, _A_, _B_,
and _C_, to be nailed in place, and _D_ to be movable as in the case of
the doll-house. Make a three-by-five-inch window in the center of _D_,
and fasten the glass in place with strips cut as described in Chapter
XIII. Strips should be nailed to the roof just inside of the movable
section to prevent the latter from setting in too far, and a spring
catch fastened to _C_ and _D_ as shown, to hold the movable section in
place.
[Illustration: FIG. 240.--Front Gable-End.]
Figure 241 gives the patterns and measurements for
=The Stall Partitions=, four of which should be cut out and fastened to
the floor of the stable four inches apart, or so they will divide the
inside width into five equal stalls.
[Illustration: FIG. 241.--Stall Partitions.]
=The Feed-troughs= are made out of two strips of cigar-boxes fitted
between the stalls, as shown in Figs. 239 and 241, and are fastened in
place by means of brads and glue. Above the stalls cut
=Small Windows= an inch and one-half square in the rear wall. These are
the ventilating windows for the stalls, and may be left open.
Figure 242 shows the construction of
=A Ladder= to the hay-loft. This is made out of two sticks twelve inches
long, with strips of cigar-boxes two inches long glued to them half an
inch apart, as shown in the drawing. Cut away a section of the hay-loft
floor two inches square and stick the end of the ladder up through the
opening, fastening the uprights to the edge of the floor (see Fig. 242).
[Illustration: FIG. 242.--Ladder to Hay-loft.]
A stick about three inches long, with a very small pulley attached near
the end, should be fastened in the peak of the roof for a
=Feed-hoist= (see Fig. 238).
The first story has
=A Drop-Front=, as shown in Figs. 238 and 239. This is made from the
box-cover. Fasten the boards together with battens placed upon the
inside, and hinge it to the bottom of the stable. Nail two cleats to the
under side of the floor (see Fig. 238) to lift it off the ground just
enough to allow the front to drop without springing its hinges.
When the front is down it forms an incline upon which to run the horses
into the stable. For this reason it is not advisable to cut an opening
in it, but merely
=Represent a Stable Door= on the outside (see Fig. 238). This is done
with paint and a fine brush. First paint a green panel in the center of
the front, and then mark off a couple of panels within this space with
black paint, and stripe them diagonally to represent beaded-boards.
With strips of wood half an inch wide make
=A Simple Trim= around the door, the sides of the stable, and around the
gable, as shown in the illustration.
When the carpenter work has been finished,
=Paint the Inside= of the stable white, and the outside the same colors
as used for the doll-house (see description in Chapter XIII).
=If you Prefer a Garage=, use your ingenuity to fit up the interior of
the building as you think it ought to be.
CHAPTER XVI
A HOME-MADE DOLL APARTMENT BUILDING
The doll apartment building in this chapter is a new idea in
doll-houses. By the illustrations you will see that the apartment
building is three stories high, and consists of three units--each one
story high--and a roof. During playtime the units are arranged side by
side upon the floor so as to form a six-room apartment (Fig. 244); and
afterward they are piled up one upon another as shown in Fig. 243, and
the roof placed on top, in a compact form that takes up but little floor
space.
=Building Material.= The apartment building is built out of grocery
boxes. The boxes used for the units must be of equal size, and the thing
to do is to select those in which a standard brand of goods come packed.
If one grocery store doesn't have what you want, go to another. If the
sides and ends of the boxes are in one piece, it will greatly simplify
the matter of cutting the door and window openings.
=The Room Dimensions.= The boxes used in the model illustrated were 28
inches long, 13 inches wide, and 8 inches deep. These provided space for
a vestibule 3 inches by 8 inches, a reception-hall 8-1/2 inches by 8
inches, a living-room 12 inches by 18-1/2 inches, a dining-room 12
inches by 15 inches, a kitchen 12 inches by 8 inches, a pantry 7 inches
by 3 inches, two bedrooms--one 12 inches square and the other 12 inches
by 8 inches, and a bathroom 7-1/2 inches by 6 inches (Fig. 245). You may
have to vary the sizes of your rooms a trifle, if you get boxes of
different proportions, but it is probable that you can keep to the same
plan arrangement.
[Illustration: FIG. 245.--Plan of the Six-Room Doll Apartment.]
=The First Story Unit= is shown in Fig. 246, and diagrams of its two
partitions _A_ and _B_, are placed to the right of it; Fig. 247 shows
=The Second Story Unit=, with diagrams of its three partitions _C_, _D_,
and _E_, placed to the left and right of it, and Fig. 248 shows
=The Third Story Unit=, with diagrams of its two partitions _F_ and _G_
placed to the left of it.
[Illustration: FIG. 244.--HOW THE THREE STORIES ARE ARRANGED SIDE BY
SIDE TO FORM A SIX-ROOM APARTMENT.]
[Illustration: FIG. 243.--THE MOST STYLISH APARTMENTS IN DOLL TOWN.]
[Illustration: FIG. 246.--The First Story Unit and Diagram of
Partitions.]
[Illustration: FIG. 247.--The Second Story Unit and Diagram of
Partitions.]
[Illustration: FIG. 248.--The Third Story Unit and Diagram of
Partitions.]
=Mark the Door and Window Openings= carefully upon the sides of the box,
making them as nearly as possible in the same proportion to the wall
space as is shown in the illustrations. Then, in cutting the openings,
bore a number of small holes a trifle inside of the lines, to make an
opening large enough to insert a small keyhole-saw or bracket-saw, and
the cutting will be easy to do.
=The Bay Windows= on the second and third stories are built of cigar-box
wood. Instead of cutting away the entire width of the box at the points
of attaching these bays, it is a better plan to leave a narrow strip
over the opening, as shown in Fig. 249. This will hold the walls
together, and will form a "beam" across the ceiling. The side edges of
the pieces that form the front of the bay must be slanted off so as to
fit at the proper angles, and the window openings must be cut carefully,
because the margin of wood around them is narrow and will split easily.
Fasten together the members of the bays, also the inside partitions,
with glue and brads.
[Illustration: FIG. 249.--In Cutting the Opening for the Bay Windows,
leave a Narrow Strip over the Opening, as above, for a "Beam."]
=The Joints between the Units=, when piled one upon another, are
concealed by a band of wood 1/2 inch wide nailed around the front and
two ends of the bottom of the second and third story units (Figs. 247
and 248). These bands should project about 1/4 inch below the bottoms of
these boxes, so as to set down over the boxes beneath. They must not
extend around the back of the boxes, and cannot be fastened to the
first story box, because they would interfere with placing the boxes
close together as in Fig. 244.
The first story unit must be raised to the same floor level as the other
stories, however, and a thin board of the same thickness as the
projection of the strips on the second and third story units must be
nailed to its bottom to bring it to the same level (Fig. 246).
[Illustration: FIGS. 250 and 251.--How the Removable Roof is
Constructed.]
[Illustration: FIG. 252.--How the Chimney and Chimney Cap are Made.]
=The Roof Construction= is shown in Fig. 250. Boards _H_ (Figs. 250 and
251) should be cut of the right size to form a projection of 1-1/2
inches over the front and ends of the building, and the piece _I_ should
be cut to the proper shape and size to form an equal projection over the
bay windows. Strips _J_ and _K_ are 1 inch wide, and should be fastened
to boards _H_ so they will come exactly over the front and end walls
when the roof is set in place. Block _L_ should be cut of such a shape
and size that when nailed to strip _K_ its front edges will come
directly over the walls of the bay windows. A narrow strip nailed to the
under side of the roof boards, close against the walls, will conceal the
joint between the roof and top story and make a good finish molding.
=The Chimney= is made of two blocks (_M_ and _N_, Fig. 252). Notch the
lower block to fit over strip _J_, and cut the cap block large enough to
project 1/8 inch all around.
=The Windows.= Old photograph plates can be cut down to the proper sizes
for the window openings, but it will not cost much to have the
paint-shop man cut them out of new material, if you haven't any. The
glass should be just a trifle smaller than the openings. Fasten it in
place with narrow strips of cigar-box wood. Window sashes can be
indicated by striping the glass with black paint.
=Make the Front Door= out of a piece of cigar-box wood, and set a piece
of glass in an opening cut about the size shown in Fig. 243. This door
may be hinged to open, but it is better to fasten it in the opening,
because small pieces are easily broken off their hinges. Fasten a small
block below the front door for a step (Fig. 243).
=The Inside Doorways=, in the ends of the first story unit and in the
back of the second and third story units, may be fitted with pieces of
board that can be set in when the units are piled up in the form of the
building, but it is not necessary to make this provision.
=The Interior Trim.= The door and window casings, picture moldings,
baseboards, and other trimming should be made out of strips of cigar-box
wood. Tack the strips in place with short brads.
[Illustration: FIG. 253.--The Living-Room Mantel.]
[Illustration: FIG. 254.--Details of Mantel.]
=A Fireplace= must be provided for the living-room, and one easily
constructed out of four pieces of wood is shown in Figs. 253 and 254.
Cut blocks _O_ and _P_ of the same thickness, and make the shelf piece
_Q_ of the proper size to project an equal distance over the front and
ends. Fasten the pieces together, then glue red paper to the wood, and
when this has dried mark off brick courses with a pencil. The joints may
be accentuated by striping with white or black paint.
=Lighting Fixtures=, simple to make, are shown in two splendid forms in
Figures 255 and 257. Small brass screw-hooks such as are shown in Figure
256 can be purchased at any hardware store, and a couple of dozen of
these, a lead pencil, and a number of large beads, will furnish you with
enough material for making fixtures for every room in the apartment.
You will see by Fig. 256 that the lighting fixture shown in Fig. 255
consists of a screw-hook with its hooked end stuck through one of the
little brass plates removed from another screw-hook, and then pushed
into the hole in the end of a short piece of lead-pencil. Cut the pencil
end about 1/2 inch long, push out the piece of lead, and if necessary
enlarge the hole to accommodate the hook end. If the piece of pencil
comes apart where glued, re-glue it. Glue the little brass cap to the
top. Paint the pencil end white, to represent glass, and indicate metal
division strips, or _leading_, with black paint or ink.
[Illustration: FIGS. 255-258.--Two Lighting Fixtures and how to Make
Them.]
The lighting fixture shown in Fig. 257 is made in the same way as the
other one, except that a bead instead of the pencil end is used for a
globe (Fig. 258).
The fixture in Fig. 255 is better suited to the living-room and
dining-room, and for fastening each side of the front door; the fixture
in Fig. 257 is better for the other rooms.
=Decorating.= Suggestions for decorating a doll-house are given in
Chapter XIV, but here are some additional ideas to suit the conditions
of the apartment. It is the modern practice to tint walls of apartments,
and the best plan is to cover the walls of each room with plain paper,
using a paper of a different color for each room.
The dining-room should have a plate-rail on which to stand plates
(pictures of plates cut from advertisements and pasted upon cardboard),
and the walls below the plate-rail should be paneled with strips of
cigar-box wood for division strips (Fig. 244).
=The Outside Walls= of the apartment building are supposedly brick;
therefore paint them a good red, brown, or yellow brick color, and paint
the roof cornice, and the horizontal bands between stories, white, as a
contrast.
CHAPTER XVII
HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE
The metal furniture which you can buy is very pretty when it is new, but
this new appearance does not last long after it has come into a
youngster's possession, for the pieces are very slender and delicate,
and thus easily broken.
Wooden furniture is the most durable kind, and plain and simple pieces
will generally outlast the fancy ones. The designs illustrated in this
chapter make very substantial pieces, as there are no spindle legs or
fancy arms to break off. They follow the lines of the mission furniture,
that simple style used in the early American mission schools, and which
is to-day being extensively made in handsome pieces for the furnishings
of modern homes. You will find the
=Miniature Mission Furniture=, illustrated and described in this
chapter, simple to make and something which is easy to sell, for there
is nothing like it at present upon the market.
Cigar-boxes furnish the nicest material for making this furniture, and
the various parts can be cut to the right shape and size with
=A Scroll-saw.= Procure small brads and glue with which to fasten the
pieces together.
=To Prepare the Cigar-boxes= for use, place them in a tub of boiling
water and let them remain there until the paper labels readily pull off.
Do not use a knife in removing the paper, as it is likely to roughen the
wood. The paper will come off by allowing it to soak long enough. When
the boxes are clean, set them in the sun to dry, after binding the
covers to the backs to prevent them from warping. Pull the boxes apart
when they are thoroughly dry, and throw out such pieces as have printing
upon them, for these would spoil the appearance of the furniture if
used.
In order to simplify the matter of cutting the parts that make the
furniture, the curved pieces have been drawn out carefully on page 177,
so that they can be laid off upon the strips of cigar-boxes without any
trouble, by the process of
=Enlarging by Squares.= These drawings are shown one-quarter of their
full size (half their width and half their height). To enlarge them
procure a piece of cardboard nine by thirteen inches, or a little larger
than twice the size of the drawing each way, and divide it into squares
just twice the size of those on page 177. That will make sixteen squares
in the width of the cardboard and twenty-four in the length, each half
an inch square. In order to get the squares spaced equally, it is best
to lay off the points first with a ruler along the top, bottom, and two
sides of the sheet of cardboard, and then connect the points with the
ruler and a sharp lead-pencil. Then number the squares as in the
illustration, using the figures along the sides and letters across the
top and bottom of the sheet.
With the sheet of cardboard thus prepared it is a simple matter to
=Reproduce the Drawings= of Figs. 259 to 266 by locating the points of
the curves and corners of the pieces, as shown in the illustrations, in
corresponding positions in the squares on your cardboard sheet. The
curves may be drawn in by eye, after locating them with reference to
their surrounding squares, but the surest way of enlarging them
accurately is by laying off the points where the curve strikes each
horizontal and vertical line in the illustration, upon the enlarged
drawing. These points can then be connected with a curved line.
Make all of the lines heavy so they can be distinguished from your guide
lines, and after carefully going over the drawing, comparing it with
that on page 177 to see that no mistake has been made in locating the
points in enlarging, cut the various pieces apart. These will give you
=The Patterns= with which to mark out the pieces on the wood.
We will first note the construction of
=The Chairs= shown in Figs. 267 and 268. These are four and one-half
inches high, two inches wide, and an inch and one-half deep. Cut the
back for the chair in Fig. 267 four and three-eighths inches high and an
inch and three-quarters wide, the sides by the pattern in Fig. 259 and the
seat an inch and one-quarter by an inch and three-quarters. With the
pieces cut out, fasten them together with brads and glue, placing the
seat between the arms and back so that it is an inch and one-half above
the base.
[Illustration: FIGS. 259-266.--Patterns for Furniture.]
[Illustration: FIG. 267. Chairs FIG. 268.]
Cut the back for the other chair (Fig. 268) four and one-half inches
high by two inches wide, the seat an inch and a quarter by an inch and
three-quarters, and the sides an inch and three-eighths wide by two and
one-half high. To get the curve in the bottom edge of the side pieces,
use the pattern in Fig. 259.
=The Settee= (Fig. 269) should have its sides cut by the pattern of Fig.
260. Make the back piece three and three-quarters inches wide and three
and one-quarter inches high, and the seat three and three-quarters
inches by an inch and one-half. Fasten the seat against the back an inch
and one-half above the base.
[Illustration: FIG. 269.--A Settee.]
=Tables= for the living-room, dining-room, bedroom, ball-room, and
nursery of a doll-house may be patterned after the designs of Figs. 270
and 271. These should be two and one-half inches high to be of proper
proportion for the chairs.
[Illustration: FIG. 270.--A Table.]
The pieces necessary to make Fig. 270 are a top two inches square, two
sides an inch and one-half wide by two and one-half inches high, and a
shelf an inch and one-quarter square. Fasten the pieces together as in
the illustration, placing the shelf between the side pieces an inch from
the bottom.
The other design (Fig. 271) will do nicely for
=A Dining-room Table=, or table for the center of the living-room. The
top of this should be five inches long and three inches wide. Cut the
side pieces by the pattern in Fig. 261 and, after fastening them to the
under side of the table-top four inches apart, brace them with a strip
three and three-quarters inches long by half an inch wide, as shown in
Fig. 271.
[Illustration: FIG. 271.--Another Design.]
=A Side-board= similar to Fig. 272 should be made for the dining-room.
The pattern for the side pieces is shown in Fig. 262. After sawing these
out, cut a piece seven inches long by three inches wide for the back and
fasten the side pieces to the edges of it. The location of the shelves
can be obtained best by referring to Fig. 272 and the pattern in Fig.
262. Cut the bottom shelf (_A_ in Fig. 272) three inches long by an inch
and one-quarter wide and fasten it to the side pieces half an inch above
the base (line 24 on pattern, Fig. 262). Make shelf _B_ three by one
inches and place it at line 22. _C_ should be three and three-quarters
inches long by an inch and one-half wide, with a small notch cut near
each end with your knife, to make it fit over the side pieces (see
illustration). Cut shelf _D_ three inches long by half an inch wide,
fastening it in place at line No. 17, _E_ three inches long by
seven-sixteenths of an inch wide, fastening it at line No. 15, and _F_
three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide, fastening it at line
No. 13. The top shelf (_G_) is three and three-quarters inches long and
half an inch wide and is fastened to the tops of the side pieces as
shown in the drawing.
The lower portion of the side-board is inclosed with two doors two
inches high by an inch and one-half wide. Small pieces of cloth may be
used for hinges, but it is better to use pins, running them through the
shelf above and below (_A_ and _C_, Fig. 272) into the doors. Stick the
pins near the edge of the doors and see that they are straight, so the
doors will open easily. A small mirror attached to the back between
shelves _C_ and _D_ will complete this piece of furniture.
[Illustration: FIG. 272.--A Side-board.]
=A Mirror= in a frame should be made for the living-room of the
doll-house. A neat and suitable design for one of these will be seen in
Fig. 273. For its construction cut two sides by means of the pattern in
Fig. 263, a piece five inches long by three inches wide for the back,
and a strip three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide for a
shelf. Fasten the sides to the edges of the back piece, and the shelf
between the sides about three-quarters of an inch above the base. Now
procure a mirror such as you can buy in a toy-shop for five or ten cents
(or a piece of a broken mirror cut down to the right size will do very
nicely), and attach it to the center of the back.
[Illustration: FIG. 273.--A Mirror.]
=The Grandfather's Clock= (Fig. 274) makes an effective piece of
furniture for the hall or living-room, and is easily made. Figure 264
shows the pattern for the front of this clock. The back is made the
same, with the omission of the square opening cut in the front frame for
the clock-face. Cut a block of wood two by two by three-quarters inches
to fit between the frames at the top. After nailing the pieces together,
procure a face from a toy watch, and fasten it in the opening made for
it in the front frame. A button suspended by means of a piece of thread
from a tack placed in the bottom of the block forms the pendulum.
It will be unnecessary to give any suggestions for
[Illustration: FIG. 274. A Grandfather's Clock.]
=Kitchen Furniture=, such as chairs and tables, for these can also be
made out of cigar-box wood similar to the designs illustrated in this
chapter, with perhaps a few modifications which will make them simpler.
Now for the making of some pieces of bedroom furniture. You will find in
Figs. 275 and 276 two designs that are easily carried out, one or both
of which may be used for
=The Beds= of a doll-house. To make Fig. 275, cut the head and foot by
means of the pattern in Fig. 265, and cut the two sides by means of the
pattern in Fig. 266. After preparing these pieces and fastening them
together as shown in the illustration (Fig. 275), cut a few strips a
quarter of an inch wide for slats and fasten them between the sides of
the bed. It is advisable to fasten these in place to prevent them from
being lost.
The side pieces for the other bed (Fig. 276) are cut out with the same
pattern (Fig. 266).
[Illustration: FIG. 275.--A Bed.]
[Illustration: FIG. 276.--Another Design.]
Make the head and foot pieces three by four and one-half inches, cutting
a piece two by an inch and one-quarter out of the top of each as shown
in the drawing (Fig. 276), and using the pattern of the other bed for
cutting the curve in the bottom edge. Nail the pieces together in their
proper places, after which cut some slats and fasten them in the bottom.
=The Dresser= (Fig. 277) is made somewhat similar to the side-board. Cut
the sides by the same pattern (Fig. 262) and fasten them to the edges of
the back piece, which should be six and one-half inches high by three
inches wide. Cut shelf _A_ three by one and one-quarter inches, _B_ and
_C_ three by one and one-eighth, _D_ three by one and three-sixteenths,
and _E_ and _F_ one-half by one and one-quarter inches. Fasten shelf _A_
between the sides at line No. 24 (see Fig. 262), _B_ at line No. 23, _C_
at line No. 22, _D_ at line No. 21, and notch the ends of _E_ and _F_ to
fit over the side pieces at line No. 20.
[Illustration: FIG. 277.--A Dresser.]
Drawers to fit the lower shelves of the dresser may be made out of small
strips of cigar-boxes or pieces of cardboard, glued together. A small
mirror fastened in the position shown in the drawing will complete the
work upon this piece of furniture.
=A Wash-stand= can be made for the bathroom and each of the bedrooms
similar to Fig. 278. The sides for this should be five inches high by an
inch and one-quarter wide, and the shelves one by three inches. Fasten
the lower shelf three-quarters of an inch above the base, and the top
shelf at a height of two and one-half inches. When the stand has been
put together, fit a round stick, about an eighth of an inch in diameter,
in holes made in the sides with a gimlet (see illustration). This forms
the towel-rack. Hang a small drapery over the lower portion of the
stand.
[Illustration: FIG. 278.--A Wash-stand.]
=Finishing.= When the pieces of furniture have been completed, they
should be rubbed down with emery-paper to remove the rough edges, and
also any rough places that may have been caused by soaking the boxes in
water. Then give the wood several coats of linseed-oil. This makes a
beautiful finish for this kind of wood, which may be improved by adding
a coat of wax. The little hearts may be painted upon the pieces as shown
in the illustration, with a small brush and red paint, or may be cut out
of red paper and glued to the wood.
If desired, the bedroom furniture may be painted with white enamel.
OTHER CIGAR-BOX FURNITURE
In Figs. 279 and 282 will be found some pieces of furniture that are
simpler to make than those just described, and although they may not be
so pretty, they present a very good appearance when neatly made.
The author constructed many pieces of this furniture when a boy, and
found them suitable as presents, and something that was always easy to
sell.
The cost of making a set amounts to but a few cents, cigar-boxes being
the principal material. They are also very quickly made, as the boxes
require but little cutting.
[Illustration: FIG. 279.--A Doll's Folding-bed.]
For the construction of
=A Folding-bed=, such as is shown in Figs. 279 and 280, select two
cigar-boxes, one of which will fit inside the other. The smaller box
should be a little shorter than the inside opening of the larger box.
[Illustration: FIG. 280.--Folding-bed (open).]
[Illustration: FIG. 281.--Foot.]
After removing the paper from each, place the smaller box inside the
larger one, as shown in Fig. 279, so that the bottom of the inner box is
flush with the edge of the outer box. Then drive a brad through both
boxes on each side, about three-quarters of an inch from the end as
shown at _A_ (Fig. 279). These brads should run through the outer box
into the bottom of the inner box, and should be driven in carefully so
as not to split the wood. The inner box should now fold down as shown in
Fig. 280, moving upon the brad pivots. Purchase a five or ten cent
mirror and fasten it to the front of the bed, after which cut two wooden
feet similar to Fig. 281 and glue the pegs on the ends of these in
gimlet holes made above the mirror. Finish the wood the same as
described for the other cigar-box furniture.
[Illustration: FIG. 282.--Dresser Completed.]
[Illustration: FIG. 283.--A Doll's Dresser.]
=The Dresser= shown in Fig. 282 is made out of a box the same size as
the larger one used for the folding-bed. Saw the sides of the box in
half, crosswise, and remove the upper half and the end piece. Then nail
the end across the tops of the remaining halves of the sides. When this
has been done, divide up the lower portion of the box into compartments
as shown in the drawing (Fig. 283). This should have a small drapery
hung over it. The upper portion of the dresser should have a mirror
attached to it, and some lace draped over the top and sides will add
greatly to its appearance.
All you will have to do in making
=A Wardrobe= will be to fasten some small hooks inside of a cigar-box,
attach the cover with a strip of linen--the same way it was attached
before you soaked it off--and hang a mirror on the front.
These pieces of furniture were designed for separate sets, and would not
do for doll-houses the size of those in the preceding chapters, unless
the boxes were cut down to smaller proportions.
CHAPTER XVIII
HOME-MADE CIGAR-BOX TOYS
Cigar-boxes are splendid material for a variety of home-made toys. In
this chapter are shown some easily constructed wagons, a
Jack-in-the-box, a cradle, and several tables and chairs of a different
pattern from the doll furniture for which working drawings were given in
the preceding chapter.
Get an assortment of shapes and sizes of boxes at a cigar store, and
prepare them for use as directed on page 175. Use 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch
brads, and glue, for fastening the pieces together.
A scroll-saw, bracket-saw, coping-saw, or a very sharp jack-knife should
be used where
=Cutting= is necessary. Do not attempt to split the wood, as the grain
is seldom straight, but lay it down upon a board and _score_ it with a
knife in the way in which you would score a piece of cardboard; then
break it along the scored line, or continue cutting until the piece is
cut in two. If you use a saw, cut a little away from the outlines of the
work and then trim up with a knife and sandpaper.
The wagons, Jack-in-the-box, and doll furniture shown in this chapter
were designed with the idea of saving as much cutting as possible, and
you will see by the illustrations that in many cases the boxes are not
altered.
=The Express-wagon= shown in Fig. 284 is made out of a long flat box.
Cut down the sides at the front and construct a seat on top of the sides
as shown in Fig. 286. Cut the front wheels about 2-1/4 inches in
diameter and the rear wheels about 2-3/4 inches in diameter. If you
haven't a compass with which to describe the circles, you can mark out
the wheels with cups or glass tumblers. Cut the wooden axles as shown in
Fig. 286, making the front axle--for the smaller wheels--deeper than the
rear one, then fasten them to the wagon and nail the wheels to their
ends. Drive a tack into the front of the wagon-box and tie a cord to it,
or, if you have a small toy horse to hitch to the wagon, fasten a pair
of shafts to the under side of the box as is shown upon the two-wheel
cart.
[Illustration: FIG. 286.--Cross-section of the Express-wagon.]
=The Cart= in Fig. 285 is made out of a square flat box with its wheels
fastened to the center of the under side. Make the wheels about 2-3/4
inches in diameter.
[Illustration: FIG. 284. AN EXPRESS-WAGON.]
[Illustration: FIG. 285. A CART.]
=The Auto Delivery-wagon= (Figs. 287 and 288. See _Frontispiece_)
requires two boxes 8-1/2 inches long, 5 inches wide, and
2-1/2 inches deep. You will see by the illustrations that one box is
inverted upon the other. Before fastening them together, remove the two
ends of the upper box and the rear end of the lower box (leaving the
front end for the _dashboard_), and cut 2 inches off the sides at the
front and an additional piece 1 inch by 1-3/4 inches from the sides of
the upper box for windows. Fasten the boxes together by nailing strips
to the ends of side pieces. Nail a narrow strip across the top of the
rear end of the wagon and hinge a drop _end-gate_ to the wagon-bed with
cloth strips. Support the end-gate with a cloth strap. Tack a curtain of
black cloth to the top cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the
curtain, so that it may be fastened up in a roll, as shown in the
photograph. Make the wheels and axles like those of the express wagon,
but cut the front and rear wheels, also the two axles, of equal size.
Cut out a small steering-wheel and fasten it on a short wooden rod
inside of the dashboard. Make a seat and seat back, nail the back to the
seat, and then fasten the seat between the sides of the wagon just below
the windows.
=A Jack-in-the-box= (Fig. 289) is a simpler toy to make than you might
imagine. The box should measure about 5-3/4 inches by 5-3/4 inches by 5
inches. Hinge the cover to the top with two pieces of heavy cloth; glue
one piece to the inside of the cover and box, and the other to the
outside. Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover, and below
it fasten a small hook on to the box; the hook may be bent from a short
piece of wire.
A spiral spring from an old bed-spring will do for Jack's body, but if
you cannot get one of these it is a simple matter to make a spring.
Take a piece of No. 12 gauge wire about 10 feet in length and wind it
around a rolling-pin or anything that is cylindrical and about 2-1/2
inches in diameter. Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed tacks upon a
piece of wood cut to fit the inside of the box (Fig. 290), then procure
a small doll's head, baste a circular piece of cardboard to the top of
the spring and to this sew the head. Make a cloth fool's cap to glue on
Jack's head, covering his hair entirely, and also a loose jacket to fit
over his spiral body; for these use any bright-colored cotton cloth that
will fall into folds easily. Tack the base of the spring to the bottom
of the box.
[Illustration: FIG. 297. Leg of Dining-table.]
[Illustration: FIG. 296. Pedestal of Center-table.]
Make the seat for
=The Round-seated Chair= shown in Fig. 291 2 inches in diameter, the
back 5 inches high, 2 inches wide at the top, and 1-1/4 inches wide at
the seat; cut the front leg 2-1/8 inches high by 1-1/4 inches wide.
=The Round Center-table= (Fig. 292) should have a base built up of four
strips as shown in Fig. 296. Cut the circular top 5 inches in diameter.
A saucer may be used with which to mark this out.
Select a long flat box for
=The Dining-table= shown in Fig. 293, and after making four built-up
legs as shown in Fig. 297 fasten them into the four corners of the box
table top with brads and glue.
[Illustration: FIG. 295. A DOLL'S CRADLE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 291. A ROUND-SEATED CHAIR.]
[Illustration: FIG. 289. A JACK-IN-THE-BOX.]
[Illustration: FIG. 292. A ROUND CENTER-TABLE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 293.--A DINING-TABLE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 290.--THE SKELETON OF THE JACK-IN-THE-BOX.]
[Illustration: FIG. 294.--A SQUARE-SEATED CHAIR.]
In making the little
=Square-seated Chair= (Fig. 294), cut the seat about 2 inches wide by
2-1/4 inches deep, the front legs 2-1/8 inches high by 3/8 inch wide,
and the back legs 4-1/2 inches high by 3/8 inch wide. Brace the legs and
back with crosspieces, and you will have a very firm and artistic
dining-room chair.
Select a box about 9 inches by 5 inches by 2-1/4 inches in size for
making
=The Doll's Cradle= shown in Fig. 295. Cut the two rockers by the
pattern in Fig. 298 and fasten them to the bottom of the box 1 inch from
the ends. Use the rim of a breakfast plate in drawing the arc of the
rockers; then draw the rounded ends, being careful to get them alike.
Saw out the rockers very particularly so as not to split off the ends.
Fasten the pieces to the cradle box with brads driven through the box
bottom into their top edge.
[Illustration: FIG. 298.--Pattern for Cradle Rockers.]
After the cigar-box toys have been made, rub down the wood with fine
sandpaper. Then drive all nail-heads below the surface, fill up the
holes with putty stained to match the wood as nearly as possible, and
finish with two coats of boiled linseed-oil. Apply the oil with a rag,
then wipe off all surplus oil with a dry cloth.
CHAPTER XIX
HOME-MADE SPOOL AND CARDBOARD TOYS
All that is required for making the little toys shown in this chapter
are spools, cardboard, paper, a straight-grained stick out of which to
cut pegs, some tacks, pins, and glue.
[Illustration: FIG. 299.--Doll Carriage.]
Did you ever see a better model of
=A Baby Carriage= than that shown in Fig. 299, with its rounded ends,
arched bottom, and adjustable hood? It is easy to make.
Figure 300 shows the details for constructing the carriage body. Cut
four wooden pegs to fit loosely in the holes of four spools of equal
size, and make them of the right length so when slipped into the holes
their ends will project about 1/4 inch beyond the spool ends. Then cut
the bottom strip _B_ 5 inches long by the width of the spools, bend it
slightly as shown, to give a curve to the carriage bottom, and tack the
ends of the strip to two of the spools (_A_).
[Illustration: FIGS. 300-302.--Details of Doll Carriage.]
The sides _C_ are of cardboard and should be 1-1/2 inches wide at the
widest point, by the length of the carriage body. Punch holes through
these side pieces in the right places for the ends of the pegs in spools
_A_ to stick through.
Before fastening the side pieces to spools _A_, you must attach the
wheels (Figs. 301 and 302). Cut the cardboard uprights _D_ 3-1/2 inches
long and 1/2 inch wide; then after cutting holes through each near the
ends, for the spool pegs to slip through, cut down the width between the
holes to about 1/4 inch (Fig. 302). Slip the lower ends of uprights _D_
over the pegs in spool wheels _E_, then the upper ends over the pegs in
spools _A_. Glue the upper ends to the ends of spools _A_, then slip the
carriage sides _C_ over the pegs of spools _A_, and glue them in place.
[Illustration: FIG. 303.--Baby Carriage Hood.]
[Illustration: FIG. 304.--Diagram of Hood.]
[Illustration: FIG. 305.--Carriage Handles.]
The carriage hood (Fig. 303) is made of a piece of stiff paper about
4-1/2 inches square (Fig. 304), slashed in three places along two
opposite edges for a distance of about 1-1/2 inches, and then folded
over as indicated by dotted lines. Bring together the ends of the
slashed edges of the piece of paper, as shown in Fig. 303, coat them
with glue, and press together until the glue has dried. Punch a hole
through each side of the top, as shown, for the projecting ends of the
spool peg to slip through.
The carriage handle is made of two cardboard strips (_F_, Fig. 305), and
a match (_G_). Stick the match through holes made near the ends of
strips F, and glue the lower ends of the strips to the inside face of
the sides (Fig. 299). This completes the carriage.
[Illustration: FIG. 306.--The Two-wheel Cart.
FIG. 307-309.--Details of Cart.]
=The Two-wheel Cart= (Fig. 306) is made of a small box cover, and one of
the spools on which crochet-cotton comes. Prepare a bent piece of
cardboard like that shown in Fig. 308, with ends _A_ turned down at the
proper points so there will be only room enough between them for the
spool to turn freely. Punch a hole through each turned down end for a
stick axle to run through.
[Illustration: FIG. 310.--Merry-go-round.]
[Illustration: FIG. 311.--Teeter.]
[Illustration: FIG. 312.--Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and
Teeter.]
[Illustration: FIG. 313.--Boy and Girl Riders for Merry-go-round and
Teeter.]
Then cut two slots through the box cover the same distance apart as ends
_A_ (Fig. 307), centering the pair both crosswise and lengthwise of the
cover, and stick ends _A_ through the slots and glue portion _B_ to the
cover. Cut the wheel axle enough smaller than the spool hole so the
spool will turn easily, then push it through the hole in the spool and
the holes in ends _A_.
Glue the end of a cardboard strip to the under side of the cover for a
shaft.
=The Toy Merry-go-round= in Fig. 310 consists of a strip of heavy
cardboard turned up at its ends (Fig. 312), tacked at its center to the
end of a stick cut small enough to turn easily in the hole in a spool.
The spool slipped over the stick is grasped by the right hand, and the
left hand starts the merry-go-round and keeps it in motion by twirling
the stick to which the cardboard strip is fastened.
The boy and girl riders, shown in Fig. 313 are of the right size so you
can trace them off upon a piece of tracing-paper and then transfer to
cardboard. After cutting them out of the cardboard, color both sides
with crayons or water-colors, and glue them to the turned-up ends of the
cardboard strip.
[Illustration: FIG. 314.--Doll Swing.]
[Illustration: FIG. 315.--Detail of Swing.]
=The Teeter-Board= (Fig. 311) is made of the same kind of a strip as
that used for the merry-go-round (Fig. 312). Tack this strip at its
center to the side of a spool, and mount the spool in a cardboard frame
in the same way that the spool wheels of the cart are mounted (Figs.
308 and 309); but make the peg axle to fit tight in the spool hole.
Prepare a boy and girl rider similar to those made for the
merry-go-round (Fig. 313).
The teeter is operated by turning the end of the spool axle first one
way then the other.
[Illustration: FIGS. 316 and 317.--Details of Swing Seat.]
=The Doll Swing= shown in Fig. 314 has a cardboard base, with two spools
fastened to it 4 inches apart to support the framework. Tack the base to
the ends of the spools. The framework uprights are tightly rolled tubes
of paper 10 or 12 inches long, and the top crosspiece is another paper
tube 4 inches long. Stick the lower ends of the uprights into the spool
holes; then fasten the crosspiece to their tops by running pins through
it and into the upright ends (Fig. 315), and then lashing the
connections with thread as shown in Fig. 314.
[Illustration: FIG. 318.--Sofa.]
The swing seat is made of a spool with a cardboard back fastened to it
(Figs. 316 and 317). Suspend the spool with thread from the top of the
swing crosspiece.
[Illustration: FIGS. 319-321.--Details of Sofa.]
=A Sofa= with arm rolls, like that shown in Fig. 318, is a good example
of what can be made in spool-and-cardboard doll furniture. Prepare the
seat and back out of a single piece of cardboard, curving the top and
ends of the back as shown, and making the width of the seat the same as
the length of the spool arms. Fasten the spools by means of a strip of
paper bent over them as shown in Fig. 320, and glued to the seat. Use
small silk-thread spools (Fig. 321) for feet, and glue them to the seat
at the four corners.
[Illustration: FIG. 322.--Chair.]
[Illustration: FIG. 323.--Square Center-table.]
[Illustration: FIG. 324.--Round Center-table.]
=The Chair= (Fig. 322) has a seat and back made out of a single piece
of cardboard, with one-third of its length bent out for the seat. Glue
the seat to a spool base.
=The Square Center-table= (Fig. 323) has a crochet-cotton spool
pedestal, and its top is a square piece of cardboard. Glue the spool to
the exact center of the top.
=The Round Center-table= (Fig. 324) is made similarly. Use the rim of a
cup for marking out the circular top.
With a little ingenuity you will be able to devise a great many other
pieces of doll furniture, and other toys as well.
CHAPTER XX
A HOME-MADE TOY MAIL-BOX
Who wants to play at being Uncle Sam, and have a postal system right in
the house, or out on the front porch where it will be convenient for the
children next door to enjoy it, too? Every small boy and girl loves to
play postman, collect mail from the toy mail-box, cancel the stamps,
sort out the letters into the proper routes, and then deliver them to
those whom they are addressed to.
The mail-box shown in Figs. 325 and 326 is easily made, and with
=The Working Material= on hand can be completed in an evening. Two
sheets of cardboard, a piece of muslin, some silver paper or paint, a
piece of tape about 2 yards long, and a needle and thread, are required.
The cardboard should be stiff enough to hold its shape, and yet be of
light enough weight to cut and fold easily. Sheets 22 inches by 28
inches can be bought at any printing-shop, and at some stationery
stores, and will not cost more than 10 cents a sheet at the most. If you
have some large cardboard boxes, however, you can use them instead by so
laying out the different parts that the corners of the boxes will come
in the right places for the corners of the mail-box.
[Illustration: FIG. 327.--Diagram for Making Sides, Ends, and Bottom of
Mail-box.]
[Illustration: FIG. 328.--Diagram for Making Top.]
[Illustration: FIG. 329.--Diagram for Making End Pieces of Letter-Drop.]
[Illustration: FIG. 330.--Diagram for Making Front Piece of
Letter-Drop.]
Figure 327 shows the diagrams for
=Making the Sides, Ends, and Bottom= of the mail-box, with the
dimensions of every portion marked upon them. Use a ruler with which to
guide your pencil in drawing the straight lines, and a compass or the
rim of a 9-inch plate for describing the arcs for the round tops of the
end pieces. You will see that the front, one end, and the bottom are
made in one piece, and that the back, other end, and a second bottom (to
make that portion doubly strong) are cut from another piece.
[Illustration: FIG. 325.--THE HOME-MADE MAIL-BOX STRAPPED TO THE FACE OF
A DOOR.]
[Illustration: FIG. 326.--THE HOME-MADE MAIL-BOX STRAPPED TO A CHAIR BACK.]
[Illustration: FIG. 331.--The Sides, Ends, and Bottom folded ready to be
put Together.]
The dotted lines upon the diagram indicate where the cardboard should be
folded. Figure 331 shows the sides, ends, and bottom folded ready to be
put together. Turn the flaps inside, and glue them to the end pieces,
and glue the two bottom pieces together; also sew the cardboard with a
double thread to make the joining doubly secure.
[Illustration: FIG. 332.--Top, showing how Portion is Bent up for Back
of Letter-Drop.]
[Illustration: FIG. 333.--Ends of Letter-Drop.]
[Illustration: FIG. 334.--Front of Letter-Drop.]
[Illustration: FIG. 335.--Top, with Letter-Drop Completed.]
=The Top of the Box=--the diagram for the cutting of which is shown in
Fig. 328--has a piece 3 by 7 inches cut out on all but one long side,
and bent up to form the top of
=The Letter-Drop= (Fig. 332). The diagram for the ends of the
letter-drop is shown in Fig. 329, and for the front in Fig. 330; Fig.
333 shows how cloth flaps are glued to the end piece; and Fig. 335
shows how the end pieces are fastened to the top of the box by means of
these flaps. Glue a strip of cloth to each side of the lower edge of the
letter-drop front piece for hinges (Fig. 334), and glue one to the
inside and the other to the outside of the top of the box (Fig. 335).
Attach rubber-bands to the front and ends of the drop to make it spring
shut. Glue and sew the top of the box to the flaps provided on the front
and back for the purpose.
[Illustration: FIG. 336.--Diagram for Making Collection-drop.]
[Illustration: FIG. 337.--How the Collection-drop is Folded.]
[Illustration: FIG. 338.--The Collection-drop Hinged in Place.]
Figure 336 shows the diagram for
=The Collection-drop=, and Fig. 337 how it looks folded. Hinge the drop
to the box with a cloth strip (Fig. 338).
=Reinforcement.= When the work has been finished thus far, cut a number
of strips of muslin 1 inch wide and reinforce the corners with them.
Then take the 2-yard length of tape, which you procured, and sew it to
the back of the box to hang it up by.
=Covering the Box.= Silver paper makes the nicest finish for the
mail-box, and can be bought of a stationer; but you may paint the
cardboard with aluminum radiator paint instead if you prefer. If you use
silver paper, stick it on with flour paste.
After the paper or paint has dried, paste
=A Collection Schedule Card= upon the front of the box. You will need,
also, to
=Letter= the words, "Pull Down," "Letters," etc., where they are shown
in the illustrations.
=Hang up the Mail-box= by means of its tape strap, within easy reach,
upon the face of a door (Fig. 325), or to the back of a chair (Fig.
326).
=For a Mail-bag= use a school-book bag, or make one just like a real
postman's out of brown denim or cambric. Letter "U. S. Mail" upon the
bag with black paint, or cut the letters from black or white muslin and
glue them in place. Provide a long strap to reach over the postman's
shoulder.
=The Way to Play Post-Office= is for several children to attend to the
writing of letters and wrapping of parcels, another to play mail clerk,
who puts the post-marks on the mail and sorts it out into "routes" and
another to play postman.
Canceled stamps from old letters may be re-used on the play letters, and
a rubber-stamp dater such as they sell at the stationer's for 10 cents
may be used for printing the post-marks.
CHAPTER XXI
A HOME-MADE REFLECTOSCOPE
[Illustration: FIG. 339.--The Complete Reflectoscope.]
[Illustration: FIG. 340.--Detail of Ventilator Top.]
This reflecting lantern, shown completed in Fig. 339, is more magical in
its operation than a magic-lantern is, because, instead of projecting
through transparent slides, it reflects opaque pictures. That makes it
possible to use magazine and newspaper pictures, post cards, and
photograph prints. You may reflect a greatly enlarged picture of the
movements of your watch, and by placing your face against the opening in
the reflectoscope, you may show a view of your mouth opening and
closing, giant size. The ease with which slides are obtained makes this
a desirable lantern to own.
[Illustration: FIG. 341.--Plan of Reflectoscope.]
=The Material.= You must get a box about 10 by 10 by 20 inches in size
for the case of the reflectoscope, two oil-lamps, or two 16 or 32
candle-power electric lamps with the parts necessary for connecting them
to the electric lighting circuit, three 1-lb. baking-powder cans and two
tomato cans, two pieces of tin about 6 by 10 inches in size, and a lens
from a camera, field glass, opera glass, magic-lantern or bicycle-lamp.
The bottom of the box will be the front of the reflectoscope.
[Illustration: FIG. 342.--Cross-section of Reflectoscope.]
=Cut the Lens Opening= through this, at the center of its length, and a
trifle above the center of its width. Make the hole a trifle larger than
the lens.
=Cut Ventilator Holes= 3 inches in diameter through the uppermost side
of the box, near to the ends and bottom.
Figures 341 and 342 show
=The Interior Arrangement= of the reflectoscope. Place the lamps in the
corners of the box, next to the front, and tack in back of them the
pieces of tin for reflectors (_A_, Figs. 341 and 342). Bend the
reflectors to the curve shown.
=If Oil Lamps are Used=, their tops will project through the ventilation
holes, as shown in Fig. 342. These openings must be inclosed with
=A Hood which will Conceal the Light=, yet allow the heat to escape. The
most satisfactory arrangement is that shown in Figs. 339 and 342. A
baking-powder can with its bottom removed (_B_) is slipped over the lamp
chimney and fitted into the ventilation hole; then a tomato-can (_C_) is
inverted over the top of the can and fastened in the slotted ends of
three wooden peg stilts (_D_, Fig. 340), and the pegs are fitted into
holes made in the top of the box (Figs. 339 and 342). Fasten the can in
the slots of the stilts with tacks (Fig. 340).
=If Electric Light is Used=, the hooded ventilators may be omitted. Any
boy who understands the wiring of electric-lamp sockets, plugs, and
drop-cord will know how to wire up the reflectoscope.
Mount the Lens in a can or mailing-tube jacket (Fig. 343). If you use a
can, remove the bottom. If the lens is smaller in diameter, make a band
of cardboard strips to fit around the edge, as shown in Fig. 344, and
glue these strips to the inside of the can or mailing-tube. The lens
jacket should fit loosely enough in the reflectoscope box opening so it
will slide back and forth for focusing. Make a tin collar to fit around
the jacket, and tack it to the front of the box, to prevent light from
escaping (Fig. 339).
Before putting on the back of the reflectoscope box,
=Putty up all Cracks= between the boards in the top and front, to make
the box light-tight; then
=Paint the Inside of the Box= and the cover boards with lamp-black
thinned with turpentine, so there will be no reflections other than
those produced by the lamp reflectors and the picture.
[Illustration: FIGS. 343 and 344.--Details of Lens Mounting.]
[Illustration: FIG. 345.--View of Back of Reflectoscope.]
[Illustration: FIG. 346.--Detail of Post Card Holder.]
=Nail the Back Boards in Place=, leaving an opening about 7 inches
square directly opposite the lens. Cut a piece of board to fit this
opening (_E_, Fig. 345) for
=The Picture Holder=, and hinge it in place. A frame for post cards to
slide in should be fastened to the picture holder, as shown in Fig. 346.
First nail strips _F_ to board _E_, then tack strips _G_ to them so
their edges project over strips _F_. A little wooden button (_H_, Fig.
345) will fasten the holder board shut while each picture is being
projected.
=The Lens Reverses Pictures= in projecting them, and in order to have
them projected right-side up on the screen it is necessary to slip them
into the holder frame upside down.
=Adjustments.= After you have built your reflectoscope, you may find it
does not throw sharply-defined images upon your projection screen. In
that case you must readjust the focus of the lens, the curve of the lamp
reflectors, and the distance between the lens and the projection screen,
until the best possible results are obtained. Inasmuch as the positions
will vary with different lenses, it is impossible for me to give any
hard and fast measurements. You will have to determine the distances
yourself.
The stronger the light, the brighter the projected image will be;
therefore, use the strongest light you can get, and place the lantern
not more than five feet away from the screen.
Unless you use an anastigmat lens such as the better grade of cameras
are fitted with, you will discover that the corners of pictures are
indistinct when you have brought the centers to a sharp focus. This
indistinctness can be corrected to a great extent by blocking out the
holder to curve the post cards and other pictures so that the ends are
closer to the lens than the center is.
INDEX
A
Airships," clockwork "flying, 102.
Animal targets for toy shooting gallery, 142.
Apartment building, doll, 165.
Automobile, clockwork, 104.
Automobile delivery wagon, clockwork, 112;
cigar-box, 192.
B
Baby carriage, doll, 196.
Ballast, toy elevator, 63.
Balusters, doll-house stairway, 154.
Battery, a bi-chromate of potash, 135.
Bead portieres, doll-house, 157.
Beds, doll-house, 183, 187.
Bi-chromate battery fluid, 136.
Boat, toy motor-, 33.
Box-kite, 12.
Bridle, Malay kite, 12;
box-kite, 16.
Buzz-saw whirligig, 71.
C
Cables, toy elevator, 61, 69;
electro-magnet derrick, 123.
Cardboard toys, 196.
Carpets, doll-house, 157.
Carriage, doll baby, 196.
Cars, toy railway, 50;
gondola, 52;
street, 52;
other forms of, 56;
elevator, 60, 68, 150;
Ferris wheel, 99.
Cart, cigar-box, 192;
cardboard, 199.
Chairs, cigar-box, 176, 194, 195;
cardboard, 203.
Chauffeur for clockwork automobile, 111.
Cigar-boxes, to prepare, for use, 175.
Cigar-box toys, 191.
Clock, a grandfather's, 182.
Clock wheel top, 81.
Clockwork automobile, 104.
Clockwork automobile delivery wagon, 112.
Clockwork Ferris wheel, 96.
Clockwork "flying airships," 102.
Clockwork merry-go-round, 89.
Clockwork motors, 89, 97;
increasing speed of, 103.
Clockwork railway, 116.
Clockwork toys, 88.
Clog-dancer, toy, 72.
Control, toy elevator, 65.
Cosey-corner, doll-house, 158.
Counter-balance, 61, 69.
Cradle, doll's, 195.
Cricket-rattle, 75.
Curtains, doll-house, 157.
D
Decorating, doll-house, 156;
doll apartment, 173.
Delivery-wagon, clockwork automobile, 112;
cigar-box, 192.
Derrick, electro-magnet, 117.
Doll apartment building, 165.
Doll-house, 145;
furnishing the, 156.
Dresser, doll, 185, 189.
E
Egg-beater motor-winder, 31.
Electrical toys, 117.
Electric motor truck, toy, 132.
Electro-magnet, 118.
Electro-magnet derrick, 117.
Elevator, model aeroplane, 25.
Elevators, toy, 59.
Elevator, toy office building, 59;
an outdoor, 67;
doll-house, 148.
Enlarging by squares, 175.
Express-wagon, cigar-box, 192.
F
Feed-hoist, toy stable, 163.
Feed-troughs, toy stable, 162.
Ferris wheel, clockwork, 96.
Fin, model aeroplane, 26.
Fireplace, doll apartment, 171.
Fixtures, doll apartment lighting, 171.
Floors, toy office building, 59;
hardwood, for doll-house, 157.
"Flying airships," clockwork, 102.
Flying-line for kites, 12.
Folding-bed, doll, 187.
Furniture, cigar-box, 174, 194;
cardboard, 203.
Fuselage, model aeroplane, 22.
G
Gable-ends, doll-house, 151;
toy stable, 161.
Garage, toy (_see_ Stable).
Gondola car, 52.
Grandfather's clock, 182.
Guides, toy elevator, 61, 69, 150.
H
Hand-rail, doll-house stairway, 153.
Horses for merry-go-round, cardboard, 86, 92.
House, doll-, 145;
furnishing the doll-, 156;
doll apartment, 165;
furniture for doll-, 174, 194, 203.
I
Induction-coil, 126.
Interrupter, shocking-machine, 129.
J
Jack-in-the-box, cigar-box, 193.
Jumping-jack, 74.
Jumping-jack operated by windmill, 7.
K
Kite, a Malay, 9;
a box-, 12.
Kite-reel, a hand, 17;
a body, 19.
L
Launching a model aeroplane, 31.
Lighting fixtures, doll apartment, 171.
M
Magnet, electro-, 118.
Mail-bag, toy, 209.
Mail-box, toy, 205.
Malay kite, 9.
Mantel, doll apartment, 171.
Mechanical toys, 71.
Merry-go-round, top, 85;
clockwork, 89;
cardboard, 201.
Mirror, doll-house, 181.
Mission furniture, doll, 174.
Model aeroplane, 21;
propellers for, 27;
motors for, 29;
motor-winder for, 31;
launching a, 31.
Motor-boat, toy, 33.
Motors, clockwork, 89, 97;
increasing speed of, 103.
Motors, model aeroplane, 29;
winder for, 31.
Motors, water-(_see_ Water-motor).
Motor, toy motor-boat, 37.
Motor truck, toy electric, 132.
Motor-winder, egg-beater, 31.
N
Newel-post, doll-house stairway, 153.
O
Office building elevator, toy, 59.
P
Partitions, toy office building, 60;
doll-house, 145;
stable stall, 162.
Pictures, doll-house, 158.
Pinion-wheel windmill, 2.
Pinwheel, a paper, 1.
Pistol, toy, card-shooting, 143.
Planes, model aeroplane, 24.
Portieres, doll-house, 157.
Post-office with mail-box, to play, 209.
Primary coil, induction-coil, 127.
Propeller-shaft, model aeroplane, 29;
toy motor-boat, 35.
Propellers, model aeroplane, 27.
Propeller, toy motor-boat, 35.
Pulley-wheel, 42, 45, 62, 151.
R
Race-track, spinning-top, 82.
Railway, toy, 47;
trolley-line for, 47;
power for, 49;
tracks for, 50;
cars for, 50;
gondola car for, 52;
street car for, 52;
other cars for, 56;
operation of, 56;
station for, 57;
clockwork, 116.
Rattle, cricket, 75.
Reel, a hand kite-, 17;
a body kite-, 19.
Reflectoscope, 210.
Riders for merry-go-round, 86, 94.
Risers, doll-house stairway, 153.
Rugs, doll-house, 157.
Rug-tack top, 82.
S
Secondary-coil, induction-coil, 127.
Settee, doll, 178.
Shocking machine, 124.
Shoe-polish can top, 83.
Shooting gallery, toy, 140.
Side-board, doll, 180.
Sleighs for merry-go-round, cardboard, 93.
Sofa, doll, 203.
Spinning-top race-track, 82.
Spiral top, 85.
Spool and cardboard toys, 196.
Spool top, 82.
Stable, toy, 160.
Stairway for doll-house, 152, 154.
Station for toy railway, 57.
Straw portieres, doll-house, 158.
Street car, toy, 52.
Swing, doll, 202.
Switch, electro-magnet derrick, 121.
T
Tables, cigar-box, 179, 180, 194;
cardboard, 204.
Tack top, 82.
Targets, toy shooting gallery, 142.
Teeter-board, 201.
Thrust bearings, 23, 35.
Top, clockwork, 81;
rug-tack, 82;
spool, 82;
spinning, race-track, 82;
shoe-polish can, 83;
spiral, 85;
merry-go-round, 85.
Tops, 79.
Track, spinning-top race, 82.
Tracks, toy railway, 50.
Treads, doll-house stairway, 153.
Trolley-line, toy railway, 47.
Troughs, toy stable feed-, 162.
Truck, toy electric motor, 132.
Turtle toy, 76.
V
Varnish-can water-motor, 38.
W
Wagon, cigar-box express-, 192.
Wardrobe, doll, 190.
Wash-stand, doll, 186.
Water-motor, a varnish-can, 38;
another form of, 42.
Wheel, clockwork Ferris, 96.
Wheel, water-motor, 39, 43.
Whirligig, a buzz-saw, 71.
Winder, model aeroplane motor-, 31.
Windlass, electro-magnet derrick, 123.
Windmill, a paper, 1;
a pinion-wheel, 2;
a four-blade, 4;
an eight-blade, 5;
jumping-Jack operated by a, 7.
Window-shades, doll-house, 157.
End of Project Gutenberg's Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys, by A. Neely Hall