A HOME-MADE REFLECTOSCOPE 210
The Working Principle of the Reflectoscope--Material
for making One--The Lens Opening--Ventilator Holes--The
Interior Arrangement--A Hood for the Ventilators--If
Oil Lamps are Used--If Electric Light is Used--How to
mount the Lens--Puttying Cracks--Painting the Inside
of the Box--The Back Boards--The Picture Holder--How
the Lens reverses Pictures--Adjustments.
INDEX 215
LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS
(In addition to 346 text illustrations)
Figs. 287 and 288. An Auto Delivery-wagon built of
Cigar Boxes (Page 192) _Frontispiece_
FACING PAGE
Fig. 48. Launching the Toy Motor-boat 34
Fig. 108. The Buzz-saw whizzes when you twist the Cord }
Fig. 109. The Eccentric Clog-dancer is a Circus in Himself } 72
Fig. 110. Pull the String and Jack jumps comically }
Fig. 114. Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it Chirp }
Fig. 115. The Crawling Turtle's Shell is a Jelly-mould } 76
Fig. 135. A Merry-go-round }
Fig. 136. A Clockwork Motor }
Fig. 137. A Ferris Wheel } 90
Fig. 138. A Flying Airship }
Fig. 160. The Car Completed }
Fig. 161. The Framework } 104
Fig. 220. The Home-made Doll-house }
Fig. 221. Interior View of Doll-house } 146
Fig. 243. The Most Stylish Apartments in Doll Town }
Fig. 244. How the Three Stories are arranged side by } 166
side to form a Six-room Apartment }
Fig. 284. An Express-wagon }
Fig. 285. A Cart. } 192
Fig. 289. A Jack-in-the-box }
Fig. 290. The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-box }
Fig. 291. A Round-seated Chair }
Fig. 292. A Round Center-table } 194-195
Fig. 293. A Dining-table }
Fig. 294. A Square-seated Chair }
Fig. 295. A Doll's Cradle }
Fig. 325. The Home-made Mail-box strapped to the Face of a Door }
Fig. 326. The Home-made Mail-box strapped to a Chair-back } 206
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
FIG. 1. The Paper Pinwheel is the Simplest Pinwheel to Make. 1
FIG. 2. Diagram for Paper Pinwheel. 2
FIG. 3. How the Paper Pinwheel is Folded. 2
FIG. 4. A Pinion-wheel Windmill. 3
FIG. 5. Diagram for Pinion-wheel Windmill. 3
FIG. 6. A Four-blade Windmill. 4
FIG. 7. Hub. 4
FIG. 8. How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail 4
FIG. 9. An Eight-blade Windmill. 5
FIG. 10. Spool Hub. 6
FIG. 11. Blades. 6
FIG. 12. Shaft. 6
FIG. 13. Tail. 6
FIG. 14. How the Windmill may be Rigged up to Operate a Toy
Jumping-jack. 7
FIG. 15. How the Jumping-jack is Supported. 8
FIG. 16. Spool Hub. 8
FIG. 17. A Malay Tailless Kite. 9
FIG. 18. Completed Malay Kite with Belly-band Attached. 10
FIG. 19. Framework of Malay Kite. 11
FIG. 20. Detail of Vertical Stick. 12
FIG. 21. Detail of Bow-Stick. 12
FIG. 22. Detail of End of Bow-Stick. 12
FIG. 23. Raising the Box-Kite. 13
FIG. 24. The Box-Kite. 14
FIG. 25. Make Two Side Frames like this. 14
FIG. 26. Cross-section of the Box-Kite. 15
FIG. 27. Detail of Diagonal Braces. 16
FIG. 28. A Good Hand Kite-reel. 17
FIGS. 29 and 30. Details of Hand Kite-reel. 18
FIG. 31. A Body Kite-reel. 19
FIG. 32. Detail of Axle Support. 19
FIG. 33. Detail of Crank. 19
FIG. 34. Launching a Model Aeroplane. 22
FIG. 35. Plan. 23
FIG. 36. Side Elevation (without Rubber Motor). 23
FIG. 37. Detail of Fuselage and Motor of the Wells Model. 24
FIG. 38. Detail of Thrust Bearing, Propeller-shaft, and
Connections. 24
FIG. 39. Detail of Bow Hook and how Rubber Motor is Connected
to it. 24
FIG. 40. Detail of the Main Plane Framework of the Wells Model. 26
FIG. 41. Detail of the Elevator Framework. 26
FIG. 42. Detail of Fin. 26
FIG. 43. The Wells Model Propeller. 27
FIG. 44. How to Prepare a 9-inch Propeller. 27
FIG. 45. A Home-made Motor Winder. 30
FIG. 46. The Kind of Egg-beater to Use. 30
FIG. 47. How the Motors are Connected to Winder for Winding. 30
FIG. 48. LAUNCHING THE TOY MOTOR-BOAT. 34
FIG. 49. The Completed Motor-boat. 33
FIG. 50. Stern, with Motor in Place. 33
FIG. 51. Diagram of Hull. 34
FIGS. 52 and 53. How the Hull, Sides, Stern and Deck Pieces are
Assembled 34
FIG. 54. Longitudinal Section of Assembled Motor-boat. 36
FIGS. 55-59. Details of Propeller. 36
FIG. 60. Rubber-band Motor 36
FIG. 61. A Varnish-can Water-motor in Operation. 38
FIG. 62. The Completed Varnish-can Water-motor. 39
FIGS. 63 and 64. Sections through Water-motor Case. 40
FIG. 65. The Completed Water-motor Wheel. 41
FIGS. 66 and 67. Details of Water-motor Wheel. 41
FIGS. 68-69. How to Make a Water-tight Connection between Faucet
and Water-motor. 42
FIG. 70. A Small Water-motor that can be Operated in a
Wash-basin. 43
FIG. 71. The Water-motor Wheel. 43
FIGS. 72 and 73. Details of Water-motor Wheel. 44
FIG. 74. Support for Water-motor Wheel. 45
FIG. 75. Upright. 47
FIG. 76. The Toy Railway in Operation. 48
FIG. 77. Support for Trolley-line. 48
FIG. 78. The Tracks. 50
FIG. 79. A Top View of Car Truck. 50
FIG. 80. Spool Wheels. 51
FIG. 81. The Completed Car Truck. 51
FIG. 82. 51
FIG. 83. A Gondola Car. 52
FIG. 84. Side View. 53
FIG. 85. End View. 53
FIGS. 86-94. Details of Toy Street Car. 55
FIG. 95. The Railway Depot. 57
FIG. 96. A Toy Office Building with Elevator. 60
FIG. 97. Section through Elevator Shaft. 62
FIG. 98. Floors. 63
FIG. 99. Partitions. 63
FIG. 100. Front View of Elevator Shaft. 64
FIGS. 101. and 102. Elevator Car Details. 64
FIG. 103. Detail of Brake and Controlling Levers. 65
FIG. 104. An Outdoor Elevator. 66
FIG. 105. Supports for Elevator Guides and Cables. 67
FIG. 106. Elevator Car. 69
FIG. 107. Counter-balance. 69
FIG. 108. The Buzz-saw whizzes when you Twist the Cord. 72
FIG. 109. The eccentric Clog-dancer is a Circus in himself. 72
FIG. 110. Pull the String and Jack jumps comically. 72
FIG. 111. Detail of Buzz-saw Whirligig shown in Fig. 108. 72
FIG. 112. Details of Body of the Clog-dancer shown in Fig. 109. 73
FIG. 113. Details of Body of the Jumping-jack shown in Fig. 110. 74
FIG. 114. Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it chirp. 76
FIG. 115. The crawling Turtle's Shell is a Jelly Mould. 76
FIG. 116. Details of the Noisy Cricket-rattle shown Fig. 114. 76
FIG. 117. How Head, Feet, and Tail are Attached to a Jelly Mould
to Make the Turtle shown in Fig. 115. 77
FIG. 118. The Spool Wheels and the Rubber-bands which Propel them. 77
FIGS. 119 and 120. Clock Wheel Tops. 80
FIG. 121. Upholstering Tack Top. 80
FIG. 122. How to Hold Upholstering Tack for Spinning. 80
FIGS. 123 and 124. Details of Spool Top. 80
FIG. 125. A Shoe-polish Can Top. 81
FIGS. 126-128. Details of Shoe-polish Can Top. 82
FIG. 129. A Spinning Top Race-track. 83
FIG. 130. A Spiral Top. 84
FIG. 131. Diagram of Spiral for Spiral Top. 84
FIG. 132. A Merry-go-round Top. 85
FIG. 133. Detail of Merry-go-round Top. 86
FIG. 134. How Horses are Mounted upon Top Platform. 86
FIG. 135. A Merry-go-round. 90
FIG. 136. A CLOCKWORK MOTOR. 90
FIG. 137. A Ferris Wheel. 90
FIG. 138. The "Flying Airships." 90
FIG. 139. How the Clockwork Motor is Fastened to the Cigar-box
Cover.
(This Box has been cut down to the Proper Length for
the Ferris Wheel.) 89
FIG. 140. Plan of Top of Standard for Merry-go-round. 91
FIG. 141. Pattern for Tent of Merry-go-round. 91
FIG. 142. The Tent ready to be Fastened upon a Tent-pole. 91
FIG. 143. Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round. 92
FIG. 144. Pattern for the Merry-go-round Sleighs. 93
FIG. 145. A Completed Sleigh showing Attachment to Shaft. 94
FIG. 146. Full-size Pattern for the Girl Riders. 95
FIG. 147. Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders. 95
FIG. 148. How the Second Leg of the Boy is Attached. 95
FIG. 149. Standard for the Ferris Wheel. 97
FIG. 150. Make Two Supports like this for the Ferris Wheel
Standard. 98
FIGS. 151 and 152. How a Spool is Fastened to the Top of the
Support for a Hub. 98
FIG. 153. How to Lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel. 99
FIG. 154. The Spokes Fitted into the Spool Hub. 99
FIG. 155. The Rim Slipped into the End of the Spokes. 99
FIG. 156. A Spool Hub for the Wheel. 99
FIG. 157. How the Spokes, Rims, and Axles are Fastened Together. 99
FIG. 158. Pattern for the Ferris Wheel Cars. 100
FIG. 159. A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel. 101
FIG. 160. The Car completed. 104
FIG. 161. The Framework. 104
FIG. 162. Top View of Wooden Frame. 105
FIGS. 163-170. Patterns for the Automobile Touring-car. 108
FIG. 171. Chauffeur. 109
FIG. 172. Cardboard Side of Automobile. 109
FIG. 173. The Hood. 110
FIG. 174. The Steering-wheel. 111
FIG. 175. An Automobile Delivery Wagon. 113
FIG. 176. An Electro-Magnet Derrick. 118
FIGS. 177-179. The Electro-Magnet. 119
FIG. 180. How the Electro-Magnet is Connected up. 120
FIG. 181. A Home-made Switch. 121
FIG. 182. Details of Switch. 121
FIG. 183. Detail of Mast. 122
FIG. 184. Detail of Pulley. 122
FIG. 185. Detail of Boom. 122
FIG. 186. Detail of Derrick Windlass. 123
FIG. 187. Detail of the Toy Shocking Machine. 125
FIGS. 188-191. Details of Induction-Coil. 126
FIGS. 192 and 193. Details of Shocking-coil Handles. 129
FIG. 194. Interrupter for Shocking-coil. 129
FIGS. 195-198. Details of Interrupter. 131
FIG. 199. A Toy Electric Motor Truck. 132
FIG. 200. Top view of Electric Motor Truck. 133
FIGS. 201-203. Details of Axle and Belt Shaft. 134
FIG. 204. Two Home-made Battery Cells Connected in Series. 135
FIG. 205. A Single Cell. 136
FIGS. 206 and 207. Details of Zinc and Carbon. 136
FIG. 208. Plan of Motor Truck Bottom. 137
FIG. 209. Section through Bottom. 137
FIG. 210. Details of Seat and Canopy-top. 138
FIG. 211. Pattern of Canopy-top. 139
FIG. 212. The Completed Toy Shooting Gallery. 140
FIG. 213. The Box Framework. 141
FIGS. 214-215. Details of Targets. 142
FIG. 216. The Card-shooting Pistol. 143
FIGS. 217-219. Detail of Card-shooting Pistol. 144
FIG. 220. The Home-made Doll-house. 146
FIG. 221. Interior View of Doll-house. 146
FIGS. 222-226. Plans of Doll-house and Patterns for Partitions. 147
FIG. 227. The Chimney. 148
FIG. 228. Front View of Elevator-shaft and Stairs. 149
FIGS. 229-232. Details of the Elevator. 149
FIG. 233. The Front Gable-End. 152
FIGS. 234-237. Details of Stairs. 153
FIG. 238. Exterior of Stable. 160
FIG. 239. Interior of Stable. 161
FIG. 240. Front Gable-End. 162
FIG. 241. Stall Partitions. 162
FIG. 242. Ladder to Hay-loft. 163
FIG. 243. The most stylish Apartments in Doll Town. 166
FIG. 244. How the three Stories are arranged Side by Side to
form a Six-room Apartment. 166
FIG. 245. Plan of the Six-Room Doll Apartment. 166
FIG. 246. The First Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. 167
FIG. 247. The Second Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. 167
FIG. 248. The Third Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. 167
FIG. 249. In Cutting the Opening for the Bay Windows, leave a
Narrow Strip over the Opening, as above, for a
"Beam." 168
FIGS. 250 and 251. How the Removable Roof is Constructed. 169
FIG. 252. How the Chimney and Chimney Cap are Made. 169
FIG. 253. The Living-Room Mantel. 171
FIG. 254. Details of Mantel. 171
FIGS. 255-258. Two Lighting Fixtures and how to Make Them. 172
FIGS. 259-266. Patterns for Furniture. 177
FIG. 267. Chairs. 178
FIG. 268. Chairs. 178
FIG. 269. A Settee. 179
FIG. 270. A Table. 179
FIG. 271. Another Design. 180
FIG. 272. A Side-board. 181
FIG. 273. A Mirror. 182
FIG. 274. A Grandfather's Clock. 183
FIG. 275. A Bed. 184
FIG. 276. Another Design. 184
FIG. 277. A Dresser. 185
FIG. 278. A Wash-stand. 186
FIG. 279. A Doll's Folding-bed. 187
FIG. 280. Folding-bed (open). 188
FIG. 281. Foot. 188
FIG. 282. Dresser Completed. 189
FIG. 283. A Doll's Dresser. 189
FIG. 286. Cross-section of the Express-wagon. 192
FIG. 284. AN EXPRESS-WAGON. 192
FIG. 285. A CART. 192
FIG. 286. Cross-section of the Express-wagon. 192
FIGS. 287 and 288. An Auto Delivery-wagon built of
Cigar-boxes. Frontispiece
FIG. 289. A Jack-in-the-box. 194
FIG. 290. The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-Box. 194
FIG. 291. A round-seated Chair. 194
FIG. 292. A round Center-table. 194
FIG. 293. A Dining-table. 194
FIG. 294. A square-seated Chair. 194
FIG. 295. A Doll's Cradle. 194
FIG. 296. Pedestal of Center-table. 194
FIG. 297. Leg of Dining-table. 194
FIG. 298. Pattern for Cradle Rockers. 195
FIG. 299. Doll Carriage. 196
FIGS. 300-302. Details of Doll Carriage. 197
FIG. 303. Baby Carriage Hood. 198
FIG. 304. Diagram of Hood. 198
FIG. 305. Carriage Handles. 198
FIG. 306. The Two-wheel Cart. 199
FIG. 307-309. Details of Cart. 199
FIG. 310. Merry-go-round. 200
FIG. 311. Teeter. 200
FIG. 312. Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and Teeter. 200
FIG. 313. Boy and Girl Riders for Merry-go-round and Teeter. 200
FIG. 314. Doll Swing. 201
FIG. 315. Detail of Swing. 201
FIGS. 316 and 317. Details of Swing Seat. 202
FIG. 318. Sofa. 202
FIGS. 319-321. Details of Sofa. 203
FIG. 322. Chair. 203
FIG. 323. Square Center-table. 203
FIG. 324. Round Center-table. 203
FIG. 325. The home-made Mail-box strapped to the Face of a Door. 206
FIG. 326. The home-made Mail-box strapped to a Chair BackK. 206
FIG. 327. Diagram for Making Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Mail-box. 206
FIG. 328. Diagram for Making Top. 206
FIG. 329. Diagram for Making End Pieces of Letter-Drop. 206
FIG. 330. Diagram for Making Front Piece of Letter-Drop. 206
FIG. 331. The Sides, Ends, and Bottom folded ready to be put
Together. 207
FIG. 332. Top, showing how Portion is Bent up for Back of
Letter-Drop. 207
FIG. 333. Ends of Letter-Drop. 207
FIG. 334. Front of Letter-Drop. 207
FIG. 335. Top, with Letter-Drop Completed. 207
FIG. 336. Diagram for Making Collection-drop. 208
FIG. 337. How the Collection-drop is Folded. 208
FIG. 338. The Collection-drop Hinged in Place. 208
FIG. 339. The Complete Reflectoscope. 210
FIG. 340. Detail of Ventilator Top. 210
FIG. 341. Plan of Reflectoscope. 211
FIG. 342. Cross-section of Reflectoscope 211
FIGS. 343 and 344. Details of Lens Mounting 213
FIG. 345. View of Back of Reflectoscope 213
FIG. 346. Detail of Post Card Holder. 213
HOME-MADE TOYS
FOR
GIRLS AND BOYS
HOME-MADE TOYS
[Illustration]
FOR GIRLS AND BOYS
[Illustration]
CHAPTER I
HOME-MADE WINDMILLS
No mechanical toy is more interesting to make, nor more interesting to
watch in operation, than a miniature windmill. It is a very simple toy
to construct, and the material for making one can usually be found at
hand, which are two reasons why nearly every boy and girl at one time or
another builds one.
=The Paper Pinwheel= shown in Fig. 1 is one of the best whirlers ever
devised. A slight forward thrust of the stick handle upon which it is
mounted starts it in motion, and when you run with the stick extended in
front of you it whirls at a merry speed.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.--The Paper Pinwheel is the Simplest Pinwheel to
Make.]
A piece of paper 8 or 10 inches square is needed for the pinwheel. Fold
this piece of paper diagonally from corner to corner, both ways. Then
open the paper, and with a pair of scissors cut along the diagonal
creases, from the corners to within 1/2 inch of the center (Fig. 2).
Next, fold corners _A_, _B_, _C_, and _D_ over to the center, as shown
in Fig. 3, run a pin through the corners and through the center of the
sheet of paper, drive the point of this pin into the end of the stick
handle, and the pinwheel will be completed.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.--Diagram for Paper Pinwheel.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3.--How the Paper Pinwheel is Folded.]
=The Pinion-wheel Windmill= in Fig. 4 may be made of cardboard or tin. A
circular piece 10 or 12 inches in diameter is required. After marking
out the outer edge with a compass, describe an inner circle about 1 inch
inside of it; then draw two lines through the center at right angles to
each other, and another pair at an angle of 45 degrees to these. These
lines are shown by the heavy radial lines in Fig. 5. One-half inch from
each of these lines draw a parallel line, as indicated by dotted lines
in Fig. 5. The next thing to do is to cut out the disk, and cut along
the heavy lines just as far as the lines are shown in the diagram (Fig.
5), and then to bend up the blades thus separated, to an angle of about
45 degrees, bending on the second set of radial lines (dotted lines in
Fig. 5).
[Illustration: FIG. 4.--A Pinion-wheel Windmill.]
You had better make a cardboard pinion-wheel first, then a tin one
afterwards, as cardboard is so much easier to cut. A pair of heavy
shears will be necessary for cutting a tin wheel, and a cold chisel for
separating the edges of the blades.
[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Diagram for Pinion-wheel Windmill.]
=To Mount the Pinion-wheel= drive a long nail through the center,
through the hole in a spool, and into the end of a stick. Then nail the
stick to a post or a fence top.
=The Four-blade Windmill= shown in Fig. 6 has a hub 4 inches in diameter
and 1 inch thick (Fig. 7). This should be cut out of hard wood. Draw two
lines across one face, through the center, and at right angles to each
other. Then carry these lines across the edge of the block, not at right
angles to the sides, but at an angle of 45 degrees. Saw along these
lines to a depth of 1-1/4 inches. The ends of the windmill blades are to
fit in these slots.
Cut the blades of equal size, 9 inches long, 5 inches wide on the wide
edge, and 1-1/2 inches wide on the narrow edge, and fasten them in the
slots with nails.
[Illustration: FIG. 6.--A Four-blade Windmill.]
[Illustration: FIG. 7.--Hub.]
[Illustration: FIG. 8.--How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail.]
With the blades in position, pivot the hub to the end of the windmill
shaft, a stick 20 inches long (Fig. 6). The end opposite to that to
which the hub is pivoted is whittled round, and slotted with a saw to
receive a tail (Fig. 8). The tail may be of the same size as the blades,
though it is shown shorter in the illustration.
=Mount the Windmill= upon a post, pivoting its shaft at the balancing
center with a nail or screw. Bore a hole large enough so the shaft will
turn freely upon the pivot, and the windmill will thus keep headed into
the wind.
=The Eight-blade Windmill= in Fig. 9 has a spool hub (Fig. 10), and
blades made of cigar-box wood, shingles, tin, or cardboard (Fig. 11).
You will see by Figs. 10 and 11 that the blades are nailed to the side
of short spoke sticks, and the sticks are driven into holes bored in the
spool hub. The hub turns on the rounded end of the shaft stick (Fig.
12), and the square end of this shaft is slotted to receive the
fan-shaped tail (Figs. 12 and 13).
[Illustration: FIG. 9.--An Eight-blade Windmill.]
=For the Hub= use a large ribbon-spool. You can get one at any drygoods
store. Locate eight holes around the center of the spool at equal
distances from one another, and bore these with a gimlet or bit, or cut
them with the small blade of your jack-knife.
=Cut the Eight Blades= 6 inches long, 5 inches wide on their wide edge,
and 1-1/2 inches wide on their narrow edge. Prepare the hub sticks about
1/2 inch by 3/4 inch by 4-1/2 inches in size, and whittle one end
pointed to fit in the hub (Fig. 11). Fasten the blades to the spokes
with nails long enough to drive through the spokes and clinch on the
under side. Glue the spokes in the hub holes, turning them so the blades
will stand at about the angle shown.
[Illustration: FIG. 10.--Spool Hub.]
[Illustration: FIG. 11.--Blades.]
[Illustration: FIG. 12.--Shaft.]
[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Tail.]
=The Shaft= should be made of a hard wood stick about 3/4 inch by 1-1/2
inches by 30 inches in size. Cut the round end small enough so the hub
will turn freely on it, and punch a small hole through it so a brad may
be driven through to hold the hub in place. Cut the slot in the square
end with a saw.
=Cut the Tail= of the shape shown in Fig. 13.
=Pivot the Windmill= upon the top of a post support, in the same manner
as directed for the other windmills.
Figure 14 shows how the toy windmill may be rigged up
[Illustration: FIG. 14.--How the Windmill may be Rigged up to Operate a
Toy Jumping-jack.]
=To Operate a Toy Jumping-jack=, by supporting the jumping-jack on a
bracket, and connecting its string to the hub of the windmill. You can
make your jumping-jack like the one in Fig. 110, the details of which
are shown in Fig. 113.
Cut the upright of the bracket (_A_, Figs. 14 and 15) 14 inches long,
and the crosspiece (_B_) 7 inches long. Nail _A_ to _B_, and nail the
jumping-jack at its center to the end of _B_ (Fig. 15). Fasten the
triangular block (_C_) to the lower end of _A_, and then nail both _A_
and _C_ to the edge of the shaft at a point that will bring the string
of the jumping-jack a trifle beyond the windmill blades.
Fasten a small stick with a brad driven in one end, in notches cut in
the hub's flanges (Fig. 16), and connect the brad and Jack's string with
a piece of wire or strong string. Then as the windmill revolves it will
operate the toy in the manner indicated in Figs. 14 and 15.
[Illustration: FIG. 15.--How the Jumping-jack is Supported.]
[Illustration: FIG. 16.--Spool Hub.]
CHAPTER II
HOME-MADE KITES
The Malay tailless kite is probably the most practical kind ever
invented. It will fly in a wind that the tail variety could not
withstand, and it will fly in a breeze too light to carry up most other
forms of kites. It is also a strong pulling kite, and can be used for
sending aloft lanterns and flags. For the purpose of lifting, the
pulling strength can be doubled by flying two Malays in tandem.
[Illustration: FIG. 17.--A Malay Tailless Kite.]
=How to Make a Malay.= Figure 17 shows a Malay kite in flight, Fig. 18
a detail of the completed kite, Fig. 19 the completed framework, and
Figs. 20, 21, and 22 the details for preparing the frame sticks.
=The Sticks.= This kite has a vertical stick and a bow-stick, each of
which should be 40 inches long, about 3/4 inch wide, and 3/8 inch thick,
for a kite of medium size. In the cutting of the sticks lies half the
secret of making a kite that will fly successfully.
Drive a small nail or large tack into each end of the two sticks, to
fasten the framing-string to (Figs. 20 and 21), and notch the side edges
of the bow-stick near each end for the attachment of the bow-string
(Figs. 21 and 22).
The amount to bend the bow-stick is important. For a kite with a bow 40
inches long the distance between the string and stick should be 6 inches
(Fig. 21). Use a strong twine for the bow-string, and tie it securely to
the notched ends.
[Illustration: FIG. 18.--Completed Malay Kite with Belly-band Attached.]
=Framing the Sticks.= Fasten the bow-stick at its exact center to the
vertical stick, placing it 4 inches down from the top of the vertical
stick, as indicated in Fig. 19. Drive a couple of brads through the two
sticks to hold them together, and then reinforce the connection by
wrapping the joint with strong linen thread, crossing the thread in the
manner shown.
When the two sticks have been joined, connect their ends with the
framing-string. Stretch this string from stick to stick, and tie
securely to the end nails. Instead of the end nails, the sticks may be
notched to receive the framing-string, but the nails are more
satisfactory because the string can be tied fast to them and will not
slip.
=Covering the Framework.= The strong light-weight brown wrapping-paper
now so generally used makes an excellent covering for the framework. A
few sheets can be purchased at a near-by store for the purpose. You will
likely have to paste together two or more sheets to make one large
enough. The paper should be placed on the outer face of the bow-stick,
and should be allowed a little fullness instead of being stretched tight
as on hexagonal tail kites. Lap the edges of the paper over the
framing-string in the ordinary way of covering a kite.
[Illustration: FIG. 19.--Framework of Malay Kite.]
=Attach the Bridle= at the intersection of the bow-stick and vertical
stick, and at the lower end of the vertical stick (Fig. 18), and make it
of the right length so when held over to one side it will reach to the
end of the bow, as indicated in Fig. 18. Tie the flying line securely at
the point _A_ (Fig. 18); then the kite will be ready for its maiden
flight.
=Flying-Line.= The kind of cord which a mason uses for his plumb-lines
is splendid for flying the Malay kite. If you cannot get some balls of
this, be certain that what you do get can be relied upon, because it is
provoking to lose a kite which you have taken a great deal of pains in
making, through the breaking of the flying line.
[Illustration: FIG. 20.--Detail of Vertical Stick.]
[Illustration: FIG. 21.--Detail of Bow-Stick.]
[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Detail of End of Bow-Stick.]
=The Box-Kite.= Of the more pretentious kites, none is as popular as the
rectangular box-kite.
Box-kites may be purchased ready-made in a number of sizes, but they are
not cheap, and it will pay any boy to take the time necessary to make
one. While their construction requires considerable more work than the
single-plane type of kite, it is not difficult.
Figures 23 and 24 show a kite of scientifically developed proportions.
Pine, spruce, and whitewood are the best materials for
=The Kite Sticks=, though any strong, light-weight wood of straight
grain may be used if easier to obtain. If you live near a lumber yard or
planing-mill, possibly you can get strips of just the size you require
from the waste heap, for the mere asking, or for a few cents get them
ripped out of a board. If not, you will find it easy enough to cut them
yourself with a sharp rip-saw.
[Illustration: FIG. 23.--Raising the Box-Kite.]
=The Side Frames.= Cut the four horizontal sticks 3/8 inch thick and 3/8
inch wide, by 36 inches long (_A_, Fig. 25), and the four upright
connecting sticks (_B_, Fig. 25) 1/4 inch thick, 1/2 inch wide, and 10
inches long. Tack the upright sticks to the horizontal ones 6 inches
from the ends of the latter, as shown in Fig. 25, using slender brads
for the purpose, and clinching the projecting ends. In fastening these
sticks, be careful to set sticks _B_ at right angles to sticks _A_.
[Illustration: FIG. 24.--The Box-Kite.]
After fastening together the side-frame sticks as shown in Fig. 25, lay
them aside until you have prepared the cross-section of the kite.
[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Make Two Side Frames like this.]
=The Covering for the End Cells.= A light-weight muslin or tough paper
should be used for this material. Cheese-cloth will do if you give it a
coat of thin varnish to fill up the pores and make it air-tight, after
it has been put on. The light-weight brown wrapping-paper now so
commonly used is good covering material.
The cell bands for the kite illustrated should be 10 inches wide and 5
feet 9 inches long. If of cloth, they should be hemmed along each edge
to prevent raveling and to make a firm edge. If of paper, the edges
should be folded over a light framing-cord and pasted. Sew together the
ends of the cloth bands, or paste the ends of the paper bands, lapping
them so the measurement around the inside will be exactly 5 feet 8
inches, the proper measurement around the sticks of the finished kite.
[Illustration: FIG. 26.--Cross-section of the Box-Kite.]
=Assembling the Kite.= Slip the bands over the side frames, spread the
frames to their fullest extent, and hold them in this position by means
of sticks sprung in temporarily between upright sticks _B_. Then measure
the proper length for the diagonal braces _C_ (Fig. 26). These sticks
should be notched at their ends to fit over the sticks _A_, as shown in
Fig. 27, and they should be a trifle long so they will be slightly
bow-shaped when put in place. In this way the frames will keep the cloth
or paper bands stretched tight.
The notched ends of the diagonals should be _lashed_ with thread to keep
them from splitting. Lashings of thread around the frame sticks _A_, as
shown in Figs. 25 and 27, will keep the ends of the braces from slipping
away from the uprights _B_, which is the proper position for them. Bind
the braces together at their centers with thread, as shown in Figs. 24
and 26. Coat the lashings with glue after winding them, and the thread
will hold its position better.
The cloth or paper bands should be fastened to each horizontal frame
stick with two tacks placed near the edges of the bands.
[Illustration: FIG. 27.--Detail of Diagonal Braces.]
There are several methods of
=Attaching the Bridle=, but that shown in Fig. 24 is generally
considered the most satisfactory. Of course, the kite is flown other
side up, with the bridle underneath. The three-point attachment has
cords fastened at the two outer corners of one cell, and a third cord to
the center of the outer edge of the other cell; and the four-point
attachment has cords attached at the four outer corners of the kite.
The ends of the bridle should be brought together and tied at a distance
of about 3 feet from the kite. It is a good plan to connect the ends to
a fancy-work ring.
[Illustration: Fig. 28.--A Good Hand Kite-reel.]
=A Good Hand Kite-reel= that can be held in one hand and operated by the
other is shown in Fig. 28. Get a 1/2-lb. size baking-powder can for the
winding-spool, locate the center of the cover and bottom end, and with a
can-opener cut a hole 1 inch in diameter through each (Fig. 29). Then
cut two wooden disks 5 inches in diameter for the spool flanges. These
may be cut out of thin wood. If you do not wish to take the trouble to
cut them round, just saw off the four corners diagonally, making the
pieces octagonal. Bore a 1-inch hole through the center of each piece.
Tack the can cover to the exact center of one disk, as shown in Fig. 30,
and the can to the exact center of the other. Then fit the cover on the
can, and glue a strip of cloth or heavy paper around the joint to keep
the cover from working off, and the spool will be completed.
[Illustration: FIGS. 29 and 30.--Details of Hand Kite-reel.]
The axle upon which the spool turns is a piece of broom-handle 10 inches
or so in length (Fig. 30). Bore two holes through it in the positions
shown, for pins to keep the spool in its proper place. Wooden pegs can
be cut for pins. For a winding handle, pivot a spool on the right-hand
disk by means of a nail or screw. The inner flange of the spool handle
may be cut off as shown in Fig. 28.
Both hands are frequently needed to haul in string quickly enough to
bring a kite around into the wind, or to handle it when it pulls very
strong, and then there is nothing to do but drop the hand reel upon the
ground, unless you have an assistant to give it to. This is where the
advantage of
[Illustration: FIG. 31.--A Body Kite-reel.]
[Illustration: FIG. 32.--Detail of Axle Support.]
[Illustration: FIG. 33.--Detail of Crank.]
=A Body Kite-reel= comes in. With it strapped about the waist, it will
go wherever you go, and always be within easy reach. Figure 31 shows one
simple to make. The spool of this is made similar to that of the hand
reel shown in Fig. 28. If, however, you wish a larger winding-spool, you
can use a larger can than the baking-powder can--a tomato can or syrup
can--and increase the diameter of the wooden flanges accordingly.
Instead of the spool turning upon the broom-handle axle, the axle turns
with the spool, so the spool must be fastened to the axle.
The axle supports _A_ (Figs. 31 and 32) should be about 7 inches long, 4
inches wide at the wide end, and 2 inches wide at the narrow end. Cut
the holes to receive the axle ends a trifle large so the axle will turn
easily. Cut the connecting crosspieces _B_ of the right length so there
will be about 1/4 inch between the ends of the spool and supports _A_.
Cut the crank stick _C_ as shown in Fig. 33, bore a hole for the axle
end to fit in, bore another hole in the edge for a set-screw to hold the
stick in place on the axle end, and pivot a spool in place for a handle.
If the hole in the spool is too large for the head of the nail used for
pivoting, slip a small iron or leather washer over the nail.
An old belt or shawl-strap should be used for strapping the kite-reel to
your body. Fasten this to the ends of the axle supports _A_ by nailing
the strips _D_ to them as shown in Fig. 32.
CHAPTER III
A HOME-MADE MODEL AEROPLANE
Model aeronautics has become nearly as popular as kite flying, and girls
as well as boys have taken to building these unique air toys.
The model aeroplane requires more work than ordinary kite construction.
It also requires more patience and greater accuracy, because each part
of the little aircraft must be made just so, assembled just so, and
"tuned-up" just so, to produce a model which will give a good account of
itself. Of course your first model will probably not be perfect. But if
you do your work correctly and carefully it will fly, and the experience
you have acquired will make it possible to turn out a more nearly
perfect second model.
Many types of model aeroplanes have been devised, but those of the
simplest form of construction have made the best showing. The majority
of record-breaking models have been of one type--a triangular framework,
equipped with two planes, and a pair of propellers operated by a pair of
rubber-strand motors. A most successful model of this type is shown in
Fig. 34, and described and illustrated on the following pages. This
model has a distance record of 1620 feet made at the Aero Club of
Illinois' aviation field at Cicero, Chicago, where it flew 16 feet
beyond the fence of the 160 acre field. The model weighs but 5-1/2
ounces, has 9-inch propellers of 27 inch pitch, and is in every
essential a speed machine.
[Illustration: FIG. 34.--Launching a Model Aeroplane.]
The first part of the model to make is the triangular
=Fuselage=, or _motor base_. This consists of two side sticks,
_splines_, or _spars_ (_A_, Fig. 35) of straight-grained white pine cut
to the dimensions marked upon the drawing, with their bow ends beveled
off for a distance of 1-1/4 inches, glued together, and bound with
thread. The stern ends have a spread of 8 inches, and are braced at that
distance by the _separator B_ (Fig. 35). This separator is fastened
flatwise between sticks _A_, and its edges are reduced as shown in the
small section drawing of Fig. 37 so they will offer less resistance to
the air. This piece is fastened between sticks _A_ with brads.
Separators _C_, _D_, and _E_ are of the sizes marked in Fig. 35, and of
the proper length to fit between side sticks A at the places indicated
on the drawing. They are cut oval-shaped, as shown in the small section
drawing in Fig. 37.
[Illustration: FIG. 35.--Plan.
FIG. 36.--Side Elevation (without Rubber Motor).
FIGS. 35 and 36.--Working-drawings of Model Aeroplane Designed and Built
by Harry Wells. This Model has a record of 1620 feet made at the Aero
Club of Illinois' Aviation Field at Cicero, Chicago.]
Before fastening the separators in position,
=The Thrust Bearings= for the propellers, and the _end plates_ for
connecting the wire _stays_, must be prepared. Figure 38 shows a
dimensioned detail of the thrust bearings, and Fig. 37 shows how they
are bound to the ends of sticks _A_ with thread. These are cut out of
brass, bent into the shape shown, and have a hole pierced through the
folded tip for the propeller-shaft to run through, another through one
end for the brad to pass through that pins stick _A_ to _B_, and another
through the other end to fasten the end of the wire stays to. The small
detail in Fig. 37 shows the end plates for the wire stays. These are
made no longer than is necessary for the connecting holes for the
wire-stay ends. Pierce a hole through the center of each plate for the
brad to pass through which fastens sticks _A_ to the ends of the
separators. The plates are bound to sticks _A_ with thread.
[Illustration: FIG. 37.--Detail of Fuselage and Motor of the Wells
Model.]
[Illustration: FIG. 38.--Detail of Thrust Bearing, Propeller-shaft, and
Connections.]
[Illustration: FIG. 39.--Detail of Bow Hook and how Rubber Motor is
Connected to it.]
=The Bow Hooks= support the bow ends of the rubber motor, and are made
upon the ends of a piece of heavy piano-wire bent V-shaped to fit over
the ends of sticks _A_ (Fig. 39). Bind the wire to the sticks with
thread, coating the thread with glue to make it hold fast (Fig. 37).
=The Main Plane= has a framework built as shown in Fig. 40, with the
front or _entering-edge_, and the rear or _following_-_edge_, made of
sticks of white pine or other light-weight wood, and the _ribs_ and
_tips_ on the ends made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. The ends of the
frame sticks are cut away on their outer edge, to receive the ends of
the wire forming the tips, and the ends of these wires, and the laps of
the wire ribs, are bound in position with thread, and the thread then
coated with glue to hold it in position.
=The Elevator=, or front plane, has a framework made as shown in Fig.
41. Its entering-edge is a stick, and its following-edge, ribs, and end
tips, are made of No. 16 gauge aluminum wire. You will notice by Fig. 41
that the center ribs cross the following-edge of the frame and are bent
up in the form of a flat loop. This loop rests against the under side of
the fuselage, and gives the elevator its proper angle for stability
(Fig. 36). The tips are bent up to add stability.
The frames of the main plane and elevator are covered with china-silk,
which may either be sewed or glued in place, and this is given a thin
coat of shellac to make it air-tight and taut. The covering must be put
on smoothly to reduce to a minimum what is known as _skin
resistance_--the resistance that the plane makes to the air while
passing through it.
The main plane and elevator are held to the fuselage by means of
rubber-bands slipped beneath them and over the fuselage, and unlike the
planes of the majority of models, are fastened to the under side of the
fuselage. Figure 36 shows the approximate position of the elevator. That
of the main plane will vary under different air conditions, sometimes
being placed over the separator _C_, and at other times closer to
separator _B_ than is shown in Fig. 35. Therefore, you must adjust your
plane and elevator--this operation is known as _tuning_--to suit the
condition of the atmosphere, until you find the positions where they
will give the machine the greatest stability. A great factor in the
successful flight of a model aeroplane lies in properly tuning the
planes, both laterally and longitudinally, and of course the planes must
balance at their centers, in order to make the machine balance properly.
[Illustration: FIG. 40.--Detail of the Main Plane Framework of the Wells
Model.]
[Illustration: FIG. 41.--Detail of the Elevator Framework.]
[Illustration: FIG. 42.--Detail of Fin.]
=The Fin= directly over the center of the elevator (Figs. 34 and 36) is
provided for stability, and may be used as a rudder by turning it
slightly to one side or the other. It is made of No. 34 gauge sheet
aluminum, cut to the form shown in Fig. 42. Its vertical edge is bent
around a piece of heavy wire, as shown in the plan detail of Fig. 42,
and the lower end of the wire is fastened upright between the bow ends
of sticks _A_.
[Illustration: FIG. 43.--The Wells Model Propeller.]
=The Propellers= are the most difficult part of the model aeroplane to
make. They must be very accurately cut, and must be of identical size
and _pitch_. The pitch of a propeller is, theoretically, the distance
forward that it advances in one complete revolution.
Figure 43 shows one of the propellers of Harry Wells' machine, which is
9 inches in length and has a 27-inch pitch. Figure 44 shows
=How to Prepare the Propellers=. The pair must be opposites, that is,
one must be of right-hand pitch and the other of left-hand pitch, or, in
other words, the upper end of the right-hand pitch propeller turns to
the right, and that of the left-hand pitch propeller turns to the left,
when viewing them from the rear.
[Illustration: FIG. 44.--How to Prepare a 9-inch Propeller.]
Step _A_ consists in properly planing up a straight-grained block of
white pine 1-1/2 inches thick, 2 inches wide, and 9 inches long, with
its sides and ends straight and true, for
=The Propeller Blank=. Draw a line around the four faces of this block
at the exact center of the length. Then on faces _C_ and _D_, lay off a
distance of 1/2 inch on the center-line, measuring from the edge of face
=B=, for the thickness of the propeller-hub, and draw diagonal lines
from the upper and lower left-hand corners of faces _C_ and _D_ to the
end of the hub center-line (Step _B_). Then cut away the portions
outside of these lines, as shown in Step _C_. Lay out the hub upon faces
_A_ and _B_ of the block, with a 1/2-inch diameter, and bore a small
hole through the center to receive the propeller-shaft (Step _C_). Draw
diagonals from the corners to the center-line of the hub (Step _D_);
then cut away the wood outside of these lines (Step _E_).
The next step (_F_) consists in laying out the form of the propeller
blade upon all four sides and ends of the block, and Step _G_ is the
final one of cutting out the propeller, scooping out its blades concave
on one side, and carving them convex on the opposite side. A very sharp
knife must be used for cutting; and the work must be done slowly and
carefully, because the least slip is likely to ruin the propeller. The
_entering-edge_ of each blade is the almost straight edge, and should be
cut very thin. The ends of the blades should also be cut thin, while the
hub should be cut away as much as can safely be done without weakening
the propeller.
When you have completed cutting the propellers, place them at their
centers across the edge of a knife-blade, and if they do not balance
perfectly, locate the trouble and correct it. Finish the work with fine
emery-paper, and then shellac it. Some boys glue silk over the ends of
their propeller blades, for a distance of 1/2 inch or so, to reinforce
them and make them less likely to split.
=The Propeller-shafts= are made of heavy piano-wire, bent into a hook at
one end (Fig. 38) to receive the rubber strands of the motor, and cut of
the right length to extend through the hole in the bearing, through a
glass bead, through the propeller, and then to bend over the side of the
hub (Figs. 37 and 38). By bending over the end of the shaft against the
hub, it is held securely in place.
=The Motors= consist of twelve strands of 1/8-inch flat rubber, each,
and as these are 1 yard in length, exactly 24 yards of rubber are
required. The rubber is not connected direct to the hooks on the bow and
propeller-shafts, as the wire would quickly cut through the strands.
Instead, small rings are bent out of wire, with pieces of small
rubber-tubing slipped over the wire, and the ends of the rubber strands
are looped through these rings and bound in place with thread (Fig. 39).
The wire rings are then slipped on and off the hooks quickly. As light
and heat cause rubber to deteriorate, you must remove the motors from
the machine after use, pack away in a covered box, and keep in a cool
place, in order to get the longest life possible out of the rubber.
It has been found that rubber motors can be wound much farther by
lubricating them with glycerine. It is only necessary to put a few drops
of the glycerine upon a clean cloth, and rub it over the outside
strands; then wind the motors, and it will work over the surface of the
inner strands until all parts are covered.
[Illustration: FIG. 45.--A Home-made Motor Winder.]
[Illustration: FIG. 46.--The Kind of Egg-beater to Use.]
[Illustration: FIG. 47.--How the Motors are Connected to Winder for
Winding.]
Of course the rubber motors must be twisted an equal number of turns, in
order to make the propellers work the same, and this is usually done
with an ingenious winder made from an egg-beater, which winds both
motors simultaneously.
=The Home-made Motor-winder= shown in Fig. 45 is made from a Dover
egg-beater (Fig. 46). To convert the egg-beater into a winder, it is
necessary to cut off the loop ends and the center pivot wires on which
the loops turn. Then bend the cut-off ends of the loops into hooks, and
punch them to fit over the pivot wire ends, as before (Fig. 45). The
ends of the pivot wires must be riveted to keep the hooks in position.
Figure 47 shows
=How the Egg-beater Winds the Motors=. While an assistant supports the
model by the propeller end, you remove the motor rings from the hooks on
the bow of the fuselage, and slip them on to the hooks of the
egg-beater. Then you turn the crank of the winder, counting the turns as
you do so, and when you have wound the motors as far as you wish, slip
off the motor rings, and slip them back on to the bow hooks of the model
aeroplane. Motors of models like that shown in this chapter are wound
one-thousand turns or more for each flight.
=Wind the Motors Slowly=, especially after the first row of knots begin,
as it puts the rubber to the least amount of strain by doing this. Quick
winding not only strains the rubber but makes the knots form in bunches,
and uneven winding, of course, produces an uneven unwinding.
The propellers must be held after the motors have been wound, to keep
them in check. Figure 34 shows
=The Position to Take for Launching a Model= from the hand. The machine
should not be thrown forward, as the movement would cause too great a
disturbance of the air, resulting in the machine losing its stability,
and probably upsetting. The best method is to give the model a slight
push that will start it off at a speed a trifle under that produced by
its propellers.
CHAPTER IV
A HOME-MADE TOY MOTOR-BOAT
The toy motor-boat shown in Figs. 48 and 49 is propelled by a tin
propeller run by a rubber-band motor. A handful of rubber-bands will
cost only a few cents, and the rest of the working material can be
picked up at home.
[Illustration: FIG. 49.--The Completed Motor-boat.]
[Illustration: FIG. 50.--Stern, with Motor in Place.]
=Prepare the Bottom of the Hull= out of a piece of wood 1 inch thick,
making it of the shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 51. Be careful to
curve the side edges the same. Use a saw for cutting out the piece, then
smooth up the edges with a plane and sandpaper. The stern should be
sawed off on a bevel as shown in Fig. 52.
[Illustration: FIG. 51.--Diagram of Hull.]
=The Sides= of the hull (_B_, Figs. 52 and 53) are thin strips 2-1/2
inches wide. Nail one to one edge of the bottom block, then saw off the
bow end on a line with the bow of the bottom block, and the stern end on
the same slant as the bevel cut on the stern of the bottom block. With
one piece in position, nail on the second side and trim off its ends. If
you have any difficulty in making a neat joint between the bow ends of
sides _B_, take a piece of tin from a can, bend it around the bow, and
tack it in place as shown in Fig. 48. The stern piece (_C_, Figs. 53 and
54) should be cut next, to fit the slanted ends of the sides.
[Illustration: FIGS. 52 and 53.--How the Hull, Sides, Stern and Deck
Pieces are Assembled.]
=The Deck= (_D_) extends from the bow almost to the center of the boat.
Its top surface should taper in its length and curve from side to side.
The piece may be whittled or planed to this shape. Fasten it with brads
to the top edges of the sides of the boat.
[Illustration: FIG. 48.--LAUNCHING THE TOY MOTOR-BOAT.]
=To Complete the Boat=, go over the work carefully, trim off all
projecting edges, drive nail heads beneath the surfaces, putty nail
holes and cracks, and give the wood two coats of paint of whatever color
you want to have the motor-boat.
=The Propeller= (_E_, Fig. 54) is cut from the side of a tin can. Cut a
piece 3 inches long and 3/4 inch wide, round its ends, and with the
point of a nail pierce a hole through it each side of the center of the
length of the piece (Fig. 55). To finish the propeller, it is only
necessary to take hold of the two ends and twist the piece into the
shape shown in Fig. 56.
=The Propeller-shaft= requires a short piece of wire with one end bent
into a hook (_F_, Fig. 56). Stick the straight end of this shaft through
one hole in the propeller, and the hooked end through the other hole,
then twist the hooked end over on to the main part of the shaft, as
shown in Fig. 57. Make a tight twist so the propeller will be held
perfectly rigid on the shaft.
=The Bearing Plate= _G_ (Figs. 54 and 58) supports the propeller. Cut it
out of a piece of tin 1-1/2 inches wide by 3 inches long, bend it in
half crosswise to give it stiffness, and then bend it lengthwise to the
angle shown so it will fit over the slanted stern of the boat. Punch two
holes through the upper end for nailing the plate to the stern, and a
hole at the lower end for the propeller-shaft to run through.
=For a Thrust Bearing=, slip a couple of beads over the propeller-shaft,
between the propeller and bearing plate _G_. Probably you can find
glass beads in your mother's button bag.
[Illustration: FIG. 54.--Longitudinal Section of Assembled Motor-boat.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 55-59.--Details of Propeller.]
[Illustration: FIG. 60.--Rubber-band Motor.]
After slipping the beads on to the shaft, and sticking the shaft through
the hole in bearing plate _G_, bend the end of the shaft into a hook;
then screw a small screw-hook into the bottom of the hull, at the bow
end (_I_, Fig. 54), and you will be ready for
=The Rubber-band Motor.= Rubber-bands about 1-1/2 inches in length are
best for the purpose. Loop these together end to end (Fig. 60) to form a
strand that will reach from hook _I_ to the hook on the propeller-shaft;
then form three more strands of this same length, and slip the end loops
of all four strands over the hooks.
=To Wind the Motor=, give the propeller about one hundred turns with
your finger; then, keep hold of the propeller until you launch the boat.
There are many ways of elaborating upon the design and construction of
this toy motor-boat, but, having given the necessary instructions for
building a simple model, I am going to leave further development for you
to work out. Here is an opportunity for you to use your ingenuity.
Devise an adjustable rudder, add a keel, finish off the cockpit with a
coaming, install a headlight made from a pocket flashlight--in fact, see
just how complete a motor-boat model you can build.
CHAPTER V
HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS
You can own a water-motor like the one shown in Fig. 61, because its
construction requires nothing but easily obtained materials.
[Illustration: FIG. 61.--A Varnish-can Water-motor in Operation.]
=The Case= of this water-motor is made of an empty varnish
can--preferably one of gallon capacity. Nothing better could be desired.
The tin can makes a light-weight compact case; the spout in the top is in
just the right place and of the right size to receive the water power
from a faucet; and as the water connections can be made tight there is
no possibility of water splashing on to the floor--a big argument in
your favor when seeking permission to use the motor in the bath-tub,
wash-basin, or kitchen sink.
You can get an empty varnish can from any painter, or at a paint store.
The first step in converting the can into the motor case consists in
removing the bottom. You will find this soldered in place, in all
probability, and it can be removed quickly by holding the can over the
flame of a gas burner until the solder melts, when a few taps upon the
edges will cause the piece of tin to drop off.
[Illustration: FIG. 62.--The Completed Varnish-can Water-motor.]
=The Water-motor Wheel= is shown in the cross-sections of the
water-motor (Figs. 63 and 64), and Figs. 65 to 67 show its details. The
diameter of the wheel should be about 1/2 inch less than the inside
width of the can. In the model from which the drawings were made, this
measurement is 5-1/2 inches. Cut the two side pieces of the wheel out of
a piece of cigar-box wood, and bore a 1/4-inch hole through the center
of each for the wheel axle. Fasten a spool to the center of one side
piece for a pulley-wheel (Fig. 66).
[Illustration: FIGS. 63 and 64.--Sections through Water-motor Case.]
=Prepare Eight Paddles= 1-3/4 inches wide and 2-1/2 inches long, out of
cigar-box wood. Locate the positions for the ends of the paddles, upon
the side pieces, by drawing a horizontal line, a vertical line, and two
diagonal lines at angles of 45 degrees, through their centers. This
will simplify the matter of spacing the paddles equidistant from one
another (Fig. 67). Use brads for fastening the side pieces to the paddle
ends. Those removed from the cigar boxes will do.
=The Wheel Shaft= should be a trifle shorter than the inside width of
the can, and enough smaller than the 1/4-inch hole in the wheel side
pieces so the wheel will turn freely. Locate the centers for the axle
upon the two sides of the can, in the proper position so there will be
the same margin above and at the ends of the wheel. Drive a nail through
each side of the can into the axle end.
[Illustration: FIG. 65.--The Completed Water-motor Wheel.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 66 and 67.--Details of Water-motor Wheel.]
=An Outlet= for the water after it has passed over the wheel paddles
must be provided, and the best way is to fasten a strip to two opposite
sides of the can so as to raise the bottom about an inch, as shown in
Figs. 62, 63, and 64.
=For a Pulley-belt= use a piece of heavy cord. Cut a slot through the
front of the can for the belt to run through, and make this slot large
enough so the cord will not rub against the sides (Fig. 63).
=Pulley-wheels= for attaining different speeds can be made of spools of
various sizes. A bicycle wheel with the tire removed, mounted in a
frame, is excellent for a large wheel.
=Connecting up the Water-motor.= If you operate the water-motor in the
kitchen sink, you can either build a platform as shown in Fig. 61, to
bring the spout of the varnish-can case up to the level of the faucet,
or you can set the water-motor in the sink and lead a piece of rubber
tubing from the spout to the faucet, as shown in Fig. 68. If you use the
latter arrangement, slip the lower end of the rubber tubing over a short
piece of glass, brass, or tin tubing, and stick the short tubing through
a hole in a cork large enough to fit the spout of the varnish-can case
(Fig. 69). If you raise the water-motor high enough so the faucet will
set down into the spout, you can cut a large enough hole for the faucet,
through a cork, and then fit the cork in the spout as shown in Fig. 64.
[Illustration: FIGS. 68-69.--How to Make a Water-tight Connection
between Faucet and Water-motor.]
=Another Water-motor.= The little water-motor in Fig. 70 will furnish
sufficient power to operate simple mechanical toys.
=The Water-motor Wheel.= Procure two baking-powder can covers for the
ends of the water-motor wheel (_A_, Fig. 72), a cigar-box out of which
to make the wheel paddles, and a stick 1/4 inch square and 5 inches long
for the wheel axle (_B_, Fig. 72).
[Illustration: FIG. 70.--A Small Water-motor that can be Operated in a
Wash-basin.]
[Illustration: FIG. 71.--The Water-motor Wheel.]
Cut eight paddles from the cigar-box wood 1 inch wide and 5 inches long.
Take a pair of these strips and fasten them to one can cover, in line
with each other, and close against the sides of the cover (_C_, Fig.
73). Fasten with tacks or brads driven through the cover into the ends
of the strips. Take another pair of strips and fasten them to the same
cover, in a similar manner, at right angles to pair _C_ (_D_, Fig. 72).
Then tack the pairs of strips _E_ and _F_ to the cover halfway between
pairs _C_ and _D_. With the paddles in position, locate the exact center
of the end of the can cover, and drive a nail through at this point into
the end of axle _B_. Slip the free ends of the paddles into the other
can cover, and carefully drive tacks or brads through the cover into
them. Drive a nail through the center of the cover into the end of axle
_B_.
[Illustration: FIGS. 72 and 73.--Details of Water-motor Wheel.]
=The Wheel Supports.= Figure 74 shows the supports for the wheel. Cut
the end pieces _G_ 4 inches wide and 6 inches high, and the cross strips
_H_ 1-3/4 inches wide and 5-1/2 inches long. Nail pieces _G_ to _H_, as
shown, allowing the lower ends of _G_ to extend 1/2 inch below strips
_H_, and leaving a space of 1/2 inch between strips _H_. The axle holes
in pieces _G_ (Fig. 74) should be located in the center of the width of
these pieces, and halfway between their tops and strips _H_. Bore the
holes with a gimlet, or make them by driving a large nail through the
pieces, and then withdrawing it.
=To Mount the Wheel= upon the supports, withdraw the nails driven into
the ends of axle _B_, slip the wheel between uprights _G_, and drive the
nails through the holes in _G_ back into the holes in the axle ends
(Fig. 71).
[Illustration: FIG. 74.--Support for Water-motor Wheel.]
=The Pulley Wheel.= One can cover should be converted into a pulley by
winding several turns of string around it, near each edge, leaving a
groove between the string. Coat the string with glue to make it stick
fast to the cover.
=The Water-motor Case.= Figure 70 shows how the water-motor case is
constructed by fastening boards _N_, _I_, _J_, _K_, _L_, and _M_ to the
wheel supports _G_. There must be a slot through _I_ and another through
_J_, for the string belt to pass through, and a hole through _K_ for
the intake of water from a faucet. These can be cut out of the edges of
the boards, as shown, before they are nailed in place. Leave an opening
between boards _N_ and _M_, and the bottom of ends _G_, for an outlet
for waste water.
CHAPTER VI
A HOME-MADE TOY RAILWAY
It is often thought that a toy railway is beyond a boy's ingenuity to
construct, whereas, in reality, it is one of the simplest toys he can
make. This applies to the tracks, stations, and cars of every
description, all of which can be made with a few strips of wood, some
spools, nails, cardboard, and a bottle of glue, for materials. If you
have passed the age of caring for such toys as this, you will, no doubt,
enjoy the making of one for your younger brother, or for one of your boy
relatives.
Figure 76 shows a railway set up and in running order. As shown in the
illustration,
[Illustration: FIG. 75.--Upright.]
[Illustration: FIG. 76.--The Toy Railway in Operation.]
[Illustration: FIG. 77.--Support for Trolley-line.]
=The Trolley-line=, or overhead cable, runs around the wheels of two
supports, one at either end of the track. Prepare four pieces of wood
the shape and size of that shown in Fig. 75 for the uprights of these
supports, and make two wheels three inches in diameter. The wheels may
be marked out with a home-made compass--a pencil tied to the end of a
piece of string, if you haven't a compass. When the wheels have been cut
out, place them in your bench-vise, one at a time, and with a file make
a groove around the edge as shown at _C_, Fig. 77. Bore a
three-eighths-inch hole through each upright at _F_, Fig. 75, and
another through the center of each wheel. Now fasten two of the uprights
six inches apart upon a block of wood, as shown at _A_ and _B_, Fig. 77.
Whittle a shaft to fit loosely in the holes of the uprights, and, after
slipping it into them, fasten one of the wheels upon one end and a small
spool upon the other (see _C_ and _D_ in Fig. 77). A weight of some sort
should be fastened to the base, as shown at _E_. The uprights for the
other support should be similarly mounted upon another block of wood.
Fasten the remaining wheel to an axle run through the holes in the
uprights, and, as it is unnecessary to have a spool upon the other end
of the axle, cut it off short and drive a nail through it to prevent it
from slipping through the holes. Having thus prepared the supports,
place them as far apart as you wish to extend the railway, and run a
cord around the two wheels and tie it. Then set the supports a little
farther apart, if necessary, to tighten the cord. Run another cord from
spool _D_ to
=A Water-motor=, steam engine, or whatever power you can get with which
to operate the railway. A bicycle inverted with the tire removed from
its rear wheel has been used satisfactorily, as has also a
sewing-machine with the belt slipped off and the cord from the spool put
in its place.
A good substitute for the tin tracks ordinarily sold in shops for toy
railways will be found in those shown in Fig. 78. These
[Illustration: FIG. 78.--The Tracks.]
=Tracks= consist of quarter-inch strips mounted upon pieces of
cardboard. Make a small gimlet-hole in one end of each stick, and drive
a short finishing nail in the opposite end (see Fig. 78). Cut the
cardboard strips the length of the sticks, and tack them to the sticks
as shown in the illustration. If inch and one-half spools are used for
the car wheels, the inside gauge of the tracks should be an inch and
three-quarters. By lapping the cardboard strips over the ends of the
sticks, and the sticks over the ends of the cardboard strips, and
placing the nail dowels in the ends of the sticks as in the drawing, a
strong track is formed when the pieces are fitted together. This may be
extended to any desired length by adding more sections to it.
[Illustration: FIG. 79.--A Top View of Car Truck.]
=The Cars= for this railway will have their trucks constructed alike,
and it is a simple matter to transform a car from one style into
another. Figure 79 shows a top view of a truck. For the bed of this cut
a three-eighths-inch board twelve inches long by two and one-quarter
inches wide, and, after rounding the ends as shown in the drawing, cut a
mortise at _A_ and _B_ two and three-eighths inches from either end.
[Illustration: FIG. 80.--Spool Wheels.]
[Illustration: FIG. 81.--The Completed Car Truck.]
[Illustration: FIG. 82.]
Procure two one and one-half inch spools for wheels, and drive a wooden
peg through the hole in each, cutting off the ends so they project a
little beyond the hole, as shown in Fig. 80. Then bore four holes in the
edges of the truck-bed with a gimlet at _C_, _D_, _E_, and _F_ (see
drawing), and, after setting the spools in mortises _A_ and _B_, pivot
them in place with small finishing nails driven into the wooden pegs.
These nails should fit loosely in the gimlet holes. In order to drive
them into the exact centers of the spools, it is best to locate these
points upon the ends of the pegs before placing the spools in the frame.
A quarter-inch hole should be bored in the top of the truck-bed at _G_
and _H_ (Fig. 79) in which to fasten the two uprights _I_ and _J_ (see
Fig. 81). Make the uprights four inches long and whittle a peg upon the
lower ends to fit holes _G_ and _H_ (see Fig. 82). Bore a hole with a
gimlet in the top of each and run a piece of heavy wire from one to the
other, bending it as shown in Fig. 81. Fasten _K_ between _I_ and _J_,
as shown. Place a small brass ring upon the wire before you fasten it in
place. A small hook should be screwed into one end of the truck and a
screw-eye into the other end, for couplings, should you wish to hitch
two or more cars together.
[Illustration: FIG. 83.--A Gondola Car.]
=A Gondola Car=, such as shown in Fig. 83, should have its truck made
similar to Fig. 79, with the exception that it should be two inches
shorter, in order that cigar-box strips can be used for the side pieces.
Cut the strips an inch and one-half high and fasten them to the bed of
the car with brads. This car may be used as a trailer.
The car shown in Fig. 81 is a rather crude affair, but with a little
more work may be transformed into a better looking car--
[Illustration: FIG. 84.--Side View.]
[Illustration: FIG. 85.--End View.]
=A Street Car= such as is shown in Figs. 84 and 85 being an example of
what can be made. The sides, ends, and roof of this car are made of
cardboard, the patterns for the cutting of which are shown on page 55.
Figure 86 shows a cross-section taken through the center of the car. The
two side pieces _A_ should be prepared first, as shown in Fig. 87. With
a ruler and lead-pencil draw in the windows about as shown in the
drawing, using double lines to indicate the sash. Then, with a sharp
knife, cut out the center of each just inside of the inner line. These
windows may be left open or may be covered on the inside with
tissue-paper. If tissue-paper is used, oil it to make it more
transparent. When the two sides have been prepared, bend each along the
dotted lines (see Fig. 87) and tack one to each side of your car truck
as shown in Fig. 86. When properly bent, the distance between the upper
part of the sides should be two and three-quarters inches. Cut the two
inner ends of the car the shape of Fig. 88, using a compass with a
radius of two and one-half inches with which to describe the curve at
the top. Draw in the panels and sash lines as you did those upon the
side pieces, being careful to get them on the same level, and cut out
the door and window openings. Fasten these end pieces between the sides
with glue, and also tack them to the uprights of the car (_I_ and _J_,
Fig. 81), which will come just inside of them. The roof is made in two
sections (_B_ and _C_, Fig. 86). For _B_ cut a piece of cardboard twelve
and one-quarter by three and three-quarter inches (Fig. 89), draw the
curved end with a compass, using the radius shown on the drawing, and
slit the corners as indicated by the dotted lines. When this piece has
thus been prepared, remove the wire from the top of the truck (see Fig.
81). Bend the cardboard over the sides and ends of the car, and lap
corners _D_ and _E_ over _F_ and _G_, and _H_ and _I_ over _J_ and _K_,
tacking them with thread to hold them in place. To fasten this part of
the roof to the top of the car, cut a number of small strips of linen,
and glue them to the under side of the roof and to the inside face of
the sides and ends of the car (see Fig. 86). The upper portion of the
roof _C_ should be made out of a piece of cardboard bent into the shape
of Fig. 90, and cut at the ends so the upper portion of _C_ projects a
little beyond its sides. Draw the ventilation lights upon the sides of
_C_ as shown on the drawings, and then fasten the piece upon the top of
_B_ with strips of linen in the same manner as you fastened _B_ in
place. _C_ should now have the same curve to its top as _B_. Cut and
glue a piece of cardboard in each end of _C_ to complete the roof. The
shape of this piece is shown in Fig. 91. The outer ends of the car
should be made as shown in
[Illustration: FIGS. 86-94.--Details of Toy Street Car.]
Fig. 92, and tacked around the ends of the wooden truck platform, and
also fastened to the under side of the roof with strips of linen. The
window openings may be cut in each end, but it will make a stronger
car if they are simply drawn upon it. Cut four cardboard steps similar
to Fig. 93 and tack them to the sides of the front and rear platforms.
When the car has been put together, replace the wire in the tops of
uprights _I_ and _J_ (Fig. 81), running the ends through the roof
(see Fig. 84). Paint the sides and ends of the car yellow with brown
trimmings, and paint the roof a light gray. Water colors can be used
for the purpose. Letter the name of your car-line upon the sides and
the number of the car upon each end and side. The route should be
lettered upon strips of cardboard with pins run through them as shown
in Fig. 94, these strips to stick in the roof of the car (see
Figs. 84 and 85).
Having seen how the car is made, you will find it a simple matter to
make designs for
=Other Cars=, using the same scheme for the trucks, and altering the
patterns for the sides, ends, and roof, to suit the design.
Nothing has, as yet, been said about the
=Operation of the Railway=, and though Fig. 76 probably shows
sufficiently clear how it is run, a few words may be helpful. The car or
cars are placed between the wooden tracks, and the trolley (or cord
attached to the ring on top of the car) is tied to the trolley-line as
in the illustration. Upon starting your engine, water-motor, or
whatever motive-power you have, the car will run from one end of the
track to the other. When it has reached the support of the trolley-line,
it will stop long enough for the cord trolley to pass around the wooden
wheel, and then run in the opposite direction until the other support is
reached. It will thus be seen that the trolley hangs to the upper part
of the cable, or trolley-line, in running one way, and to the lower part
on the return run. In changing the direction of the run, the ring to
which the trolley is attached slides to the other end of the car.
[Illustration: FIG. 95.--The Railway Depot.]
=A Station= such as is illustrated in Fig. 95 is made out of cardboard
and mounted upon a seven-eighths-inch board large enough to form a
railway platform. After cutting out the side and end pieces, with door
and window openings placed as shown in the illustration, fasten them
together with strips of linen glued in the corners. Make the roof low
and extend it over the platform upon each side and over the gable-ends,
as shown in the illustration. Paint the sides of the depot the
regulation depot red, and the roof a shingle or slate color. Paint the
door and window-sash black, letter the name of the station upon the
gable-ends, and with a ruler and lead-pencil rule off the boards upon
the sides, and the slate or shingles upon the roof. As this is a typical
railway station, two may be made of the same pattern, one for either end
of your car line.
CHAPTER VII
HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS
The elevator shown in Fig. 96 is a unique mechanical toy well worth
one's making. Release the little car at the top floor, and it will
descend to the ground floor, and then return to the starting point,
without you having to touch it a second time. A magical elevator?
Perhaps so. A little mechanical device performs the trick.
The same plan may be followed for installing the doll-house elevator in
Chapter XIII, but the more stories there are the more fun there is in
operating the elevator. This is why I have adapted the scheme to
=A Toy Office Building.= Six stories are shown in Fig. 96, but you can
make a modern sky-scraper with as many stories as you like. A
packing-case 3 feet 6 inches long, stood on end, was used for the model.
Another box or two can be added to the top for additional stories.
Besides the box, or boxes, get enough box boards for floors and
partitions.
=Make the Floors= in two pieces (_A_ and _B_, Fig. 98), so the opening
for the elevator shaft can be cut out of the end of one piece in the
manner shown. This opening should be about 5 inches square. Mark out and
cut the boards for all of the floors at one time, and be careful to get
the shaft opening the same in each floor. Cut the notch _C_ in board _A_
about 1 inch square.
Fasten the floor boards in place with nails driven through the sides of
the box.
=The Partitions=, a pattern for which is shown in Fig. 99, can be made
quicker by omitting the doorway, but this is easy to cut by sawing along
the sides and then splitting out the piece between the saw cuts.
[Illustration: FIG. 96.--A Toy Office Building with Elevator.]
=The Elevator Car= should be built up of cigar-box wood, as shown in
Figs. 101 and 102. The front portion (_D_) should be about 3 inches
wide, 2-1/2 inches deep, and 4 inches high, and the rear portion (_E_)
should be of the same width, 2 inches deep, and 2-1/2 inches high.
Fasten these upon the base piece _F_ as shown.
=The Elevator Guides.= Bore the holes _G_ through the top and bottom of
the car, close to the sides, for guide wires _H_ to run through (Figs.
101 and 102). These holes may be bored with a screw-eye if you haven't a
gimlet or drill. Bell-wire, or almost any wire that you have on hand,
will do for the guides. Fasten two screw-eyes into the under side of the
top of the shaft, the same distance apart as holes _G_, and in the
proper position so they will come exactly over them (_I_, Fig. 100). Use
the car for determining these measurements. Then bore two holes through
the bottom of the shaft directly below the screw-eyes (_J_, Fig. 100).
Attach the wire to one screw-eye, run it down through holes _G_ in the
car, through one of the holes _J_, then across to and up through the
other hole _J_, up through the other set of holes _G_ in the car, and
attach to the second screw-eye _I_.
=The Cables.= The elevator is lifted by means of cord _L_ (Figs. 97 and
101). Fasten this cord to a tack driven into the top of the car, then
run it up and over spool _M_ (Figs. 97 and 101), over spool _N_ (Fig.
97), and tie to weight _K_.
=The Counter-balance.= A bottle, filled with sand to make it weigh more
than twice as much as the car, should be used for this. Screw a small
screw-eye into the cork to tie the cord to.
The counter-balance runs up and down in
=The Smoke-stack=, which is fastened to the back of the building (Fig.
97). Make the stack of cardboard mailing-tubes, joining them end to end
with bands of paper pasted around them. Fasten the stack to the back of
the building with wire straps, and brace the top as shown in Fig. 96,
but leave it unattached until you have adjusted
=The Overhead Pulleys=, or _sheaves_. These are spools. You will see by
looking at Fig. 100 that spool _M_ turns on the axle _O_, and the ends
of this axle are cut to fit snugly in screw-eyes _I_.
[Illustration: FIG. 97.--Section through Elevator Shaft.]
Fasten pulley spool _N_ in the smoke-stack by means of a wooden axle
pushed through holes pierced in the side of the stack, as is shown in
the small drawing above, Fig. 97. Bore a hole through the back of the
building for the cable cord _L_ to run through (_P_, Figs. 97 and 100),
and cut another through the smoke-stack.
=How the Car Operates.= When the weight and cord have been adjusted and
the smoke-stack erected, the elevator will run from the ground floor up
to the roof of its own accord, because the counter-balance is much
heavier than the car. To make it descend it is necessary to add weight
to the car, to make it enough heavier than the counter-balance so it
will drop of its own accord. This is done with
=Ballast= consisting of a bottle of sand or salt of twice the combined
weight of counter-balance _K_ and the car. After filling the bottle,
cork it up, and screw a screw-eye into the cork. Then screw the eye of a
2-inch hook-and-eye into the roof of the building, directly over the
center of box _E_ of the elevator (_R_, Figs. 97 and 101), and attach
one end of a rubber-band to the hook and tack the other end to the top
of the elevator-shaft (Fig. 101).
[Illustration: FIG. 98.--Floors.]
[Illustration: FIG. 99.--Partitions.]
With the hook and rubber-band properly adjusted, this is what happens
when the car ascends to the top of the shaft. The bottom of the rear
portion of the car strikes bottle _Q_, lifts it enough to release the
end of the hook (_R_), and the rubber-band springs the hook out of the
way (Fig. 97). The bottle remains upon the rear portion of the car, and
its weight carries the car to the bottom of the shaft.
=To Make the Car Rise= to the top of the shaft again, remove bottle
_Q_. Replace the bottle upon the end of hook _R_, and it will be in
position for the next trip downwards.
[Illustration: FIG. 100.--Front View of Elevator Shaft.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 101 and 102.--Elevator Car Details.]
Cut the holes _Y_ and _Z_ (Fig. 100) through the outside wall of the
shaft for hand holes through which to reach bottle _Q_ and hook _R_.
[Illustration: FIG. 103.--Detail of Brake and Controlling Levers.]
Figures 97, 100, and 103 show
=A Simple Control= for stopping the car at the different floor levels.
Stick _S_ may be a piece of broom-handle, curtain-pole, or flagstaff.
Bore a hole through the bottom of the shaft, directly below holes _C_ in
the floors (_T_, Fig. 100), and slip the stick through hole _T_ and into
slots _C_. Then locate on one side of stick _S_ points just below the
under face of each floor, and upon the opposite side locate points just
above where the back edge of the elevator will come when the car is
raised to each floor level (Fig. 97). Remove the stick, and drill or
bore a small hole at each point marked; then replace it, nail a small
block (_U_, Fig. 100) across the top end to hold it in place, and drive
a nail, with its head filed off, into each of the holes.
When stick _S_ is turned to the position shown in Fig. 97, while the car
is going down, the first nail below the car will project beneath it and
bring it to a stop; and if the stick is turned in the opposite direction
while the elevator is going up, the first nail above the car will
project over the back edge of portion _E_ and bring the car to a stop.
=Two Levers= operate the brakes (_W_, Figs. 97 and 100). Cut these of
the shape shown in Fig. 103, and screw one to each side wall. Then tack
a piece of cord to stick _S_, wrap the ends of the cord once around,
slip them through screw-eyes _V_ screwed into the side walls, and tie to
tacks driven into levers _W_.
[Illustration: FIG. 104.--An Outdoor Elevator.]
One series of brakes can now be set by pulling forward one lever, and
the other series by pulling forward the other lever. By driving a nail
into stick _S_ at _X_ (Fig. 100), and a nail into the bottom of the
shaft, each side of stick _S_, the levers will turn the stick just far
enough in either direction to bring the brakes into operation.
If there is a kitchen porch to your house, construct
=The Outdoor Elevator= shown in Fig. 104 to run from the ground up to
that porch. If you live in an upper story of an apartment building, your
elevator can be made to run to a greater height, which, of course, will
make more fun.
It will save considerable work to use the porch, because for one thing
you will not have to build an upper platform to stand upon to reach the
elevator car when it runs to the top, and for another thing the supports
for the guides and cable can be fastened directly to one of the porch
posts.
[Illustration: FIG. 105.--Supports for Elevator Guides and Cables.]
Figure 105 shows a large detail of
=The Guide Supports.= Cross strips _A_, _B_, and _C_ should be 18 or 20
inches long, about 2 inches wide, and 1 inch thick. At a distance of
about 1 inch from one end of strips _A_ and _B_ screw a screw-eye into
one edge, and 8 inches from those eyes screw a second screw-eye (_D_,
Fig. 105). Screw-eyes with 1/2 inch eyes are large enough. A dozen will
cost about 5 cents at the hardward store. The elevator guides are
fastened to these.
Besides the screw-eyes there must be two clothes-line pulleys for the
cable to run over. These cost 5 cents apiece. Screw one pulley into the
edge of strip _B_, halfway between the two screw-eyes _D_ (_E_, Fig.
105), the other into an edge of strip _C_ at the same distance from the
end that you have placed the pulley in strip _B_ (_F_, Fig. 105).
Nail strip _A_ to the porch post as close to the ground as you can get
it, strip _B_ to the same face of the same post, about 18 inches above
the porch railing, and strip _C_ to the opposite face of the post at the
same height as strip _B_. Nail these strips securely in place.
If you cannot find a starch-box or other small box out of which to make
=The Car=, go to a grocery store. You will be sure to find just what you
want there. It is not likely that the grocer will charge you anything
for a small box like this. If you have placed screw-eyes _D_ 8 inches
apart, as directed, the width of the box should be a trifle less than
this measurement, but if the box you pick up is wider the screw-eyes can
be spaced as much farther apart as is necessary to accommodate it.
Figure 106 shows how the box is converted into the car. Screw two
screw-eyes into each side of the box, one above the other, as shown at
_G_, for the elevator guides to run through, screw another into the
exact center of the top (_H_) to tie the hoisting cable to, and screw
another into the exact center of the bottom to tie the lowering cable
to. Nail a narrow strip across the open front of the car, at the bottom,
to keep things from falling out.
[Illustration: FIG. 106.--Elevator Car.]
Get heavy wrapping-twine or stovepipe wire for
=The Guides.= Attach these guides to screw-eyes _D_ in strip _B_, first,
drop them through screw-eyes _G_ in the sides of the car, and then
fasten to screw-eyes _D_ in strip _A_.
=The Counter-balance= is a large can filled with earth, sand, or small
stones. Its weight must be equal to about three times that of the empty
car. Fasten the lifting cable through holes punched in opposite sides of
the can (Fig. 107).
[Illustration: FIG. 107.--Counter-balance.]
Use a strong wrapping-twine for
=The Lifting Cable.= After tying this to the counter-balance, run it
over pulley _F_, then over pulley _E_, and tie to screw-eye _H_ in the
top of the car. The cable must be of the right length so when the
counter-balance has dropped to the ground the car will come just above
the porch railing, as shown in Fig. 104. Tie
=The Lowering Cable= to the screw-eye screwed into the under side of the
car.
As long as the weight of the car and its load remains less than half of
that of the counter-balance, the counter-balance will drop and by so
doing lift the car. The cable attached to the bottom must be pulled to
lower the car.
Those of you boys who own a tree-hut, or intend to build one,[1] should
erect an elevator similar to the one just described, for hoisting
supplies to the hut.
[Footnote 1: Plans for building Tree-huts, and a Dumb-Waiter for
supplies, are given in Chapter XXV of "The Handy Boy."]
CHAPTER VIII
HOME-MADE MECHANICAL TOYS
Those of you boys who have examined the little mechanical toys sold upon
the street corners just before Christmas probably have been surprised to
find how simply they are made, and perhaps it has never occurred to you
that you might make toys equally as good for presents for your younger
brothers, sisters, or cousins. Most of the smaller mechanical toys are
not only easy to make, but they require materials which cost little and
can usually be picked up at home. Sometimes it takes considerable
thinking and planning to discover just the things which can be adapted
to the various parts of toys; but that is where part of the fun of toy
making comes in.
=A Buzz-saw Whirligig= is an interesting toy (Fig. 108). Lay out a disk
about 5 inches in diameter upon a piece of cardboard, locate the
position for the spool-end on the center of each face, and make four
rings outside of this. Divide the circumference of the disk into sixteen
equal parts, and lay off the teeth as shown. (Fig. 111.) The spool-ends
used for centers should have two holes drilled through them for the
twisting cord to slip through, and should be fastened to the disk with
glue or brads.
A cotton string is best for
=Operating the Whirligig.= After slipping it through the holes in the
spool-ends, tie the ends together. To work the toy, slip the first
finger of each hand through the loop of each end, and whirl the disk in
one direction until the string is twisted from both ends as far as the
center. Then pull firmly on the ends of the string, and the disk will
whirl in the opposite direction until the string is untwisted and
twisted up again in the opposite direction. As the strings twist,
slacken your hold upon the ends, and when it has wound up tight pull
again to make it whirl in the opposite direction. The disk should whirl
very steadily when working right, and the knack of making the string
twist so the disk will do so is attained with a little practice.
[Illustration: FIG. 111.--Detail of Buzz-saw Whirligig shown in Fig.
108.]
=The Clog-dancer= (Fig. 109) is an easily made loose-jointed doll. His
dancing-stage is a shingle or piece of stiff cardboard held on the edge
of a chair beneath your knee. He is held by means of the string attached
to his head, so that his feet rest lightly upon the stage, and he
is made to jig by tapping the outer end of the stage with the free hand.
With a little practice the figure can be made to go through the steps of
the most eccentric clog-dancer.
[Illustration: FIG. 108.--THE BUZZ-SAW WHIZZES WHEN YOU TWIST THE CORD.]
[Illustration: FIG. 109.--THE ECCENTRIC CLOG-DANCER IS A CIRCUS IN
HIMSELF.]
[Illustration: FIG. 110.--PULL THE STRING AND JACK JUMPS COMICALLY.]
[Illustration: FIG. 112.--Details of Body of the Clog-dancer shown in
Fig. 109.]
The more grotesque the dancer's appearance is, the more amusing his
dancing will be, so the cruder you make him the better. Figure 112 shows
the working details for his construction. The center part of a
thread-spool forms the _head_, and a spool-end and the rounded end of a
broom-handle form the _hat_. These three pieces are nailed together. The
_body_ is a piece of a broom-handle, and a spool-end nailed to it forms
the _shoulders_. Drive a nail into the end of the body, tie a string to
this, and run the string up through the hole in the head, and out
through a hole in the hat; tie the string to a fancy-work ring.
The _arms_ and _legs_ are made of sticks whittled to the lengths marked
in Fig. 112, and about 1/4 inch in diameter, and are jointed by driving
tacks into their ends and connecting these with heavy linen thread.
Figure 112 shows how the feet and hands are cut, and how tacks are
driven into them for the thread connections. Paint the clog-dancer's
body, arms, and legs white, his head, hands, and feet black, and mark
his eyes, nose, and mouth upon his face in white.
[Illustration: FIG. 113.--Details of Body of the Jumping-jack shown in
Fig. 110.]
=A Toy Jumping-jack= is always amusing, and Fig. 110 shows a simply
constructed home-made model. You will see by Fig. 113 how the figure is
made. The peaked _hat_ is half a spool tapered down from the end to the
center; and the _head_ is the center from a darning-cotton spool, shaped
down at one end for a _neck_, and with eyes, nose, and mouth cut in on
one side. Figure 113 shows the diagrams for the front and back of the
_body_, the _arms_, and the _legs_. These are cut out of cigar-box wood.
Cut the neck stick A long enough to run through the head and hat, with a
square block on the end to fit between the body pieces. The blocks _B_
should be of the same thickness as block _A_. Bore the pivotal holes
through the arms and legs in the positions shown, using a small gimlet
or red-hot nail with which to do the boring, and tie a piece of heavy
linen thread through each as shown. The arms and legs are pivoted on
brads driven through the front of the body into the back.
When the body has been fastened together, bring the ends of the threads
together, and tie to a small ring; also knot the threads close to the
body to keep them together. In painting Jack, you might provide him with
a red coat, blue trousers and a blue hat, white stockings, and black
shoes.
=A Cricket-rattle= is about the liveliest form of rattle ever devised
(Fig. 114). After constructing one for your sister or brother, you
probably will decide to make one for yourself. For this rattle, first
prepare a _notched spool_ (_A_, Fig. 116). The notches in this need not
be cut as perfectly as shown, but the notches in one end of the spool
must be exactly opposite those in the other end. Whittle the _handle B_
to the shape and size shown, cut the strips _C_ out of cigar-box wood,
and prepare the block _D_ as shown. The groove in the edge of _D_ is cut
of just the right width to receive the end of the wooden strip _E_. The
length of _E_ is best determined after nailing the ends of strips _C_ to
_D_, and slipping the handle through the holes in strips _C_ and spool
_A_. It should extend from the groove in _D_ into the notches in _A_.
Make it as wide as the spool is high. Paint the rattle red or blue.
[Illustration: FIG. 116.--Details of the Noisy Cricket-rattle shown Fig.
114.]
=The Turtle Toy= which crawls along the floor when you alternately pull
and slacken a thread that runs through its shell, has always been one of
the most popular of mechanical toys, and you will be surprised to find
how easily our home-made model shown in Fig. 115 is put together. The
_shell_ is a small tin mold such as is used for molding jellies. One
about 4 inches long costs 10 cents. A mold having the form of a bunch
of grapes is a pretty good form for the turtle shell, as you will see
by the illustrations.
[Illustration: FIG. 114.--WHIRLING THE CRICKET-RATTLE MAKES IT CHIRP.]
[Illustration: FIG. 115.--THE CRAWLING TURTLE'S SHELL IS A JELLY
MOULD.]
The _head_, the _tail_, and the four _feet_ are cut out of tin from a
can, and bent into the forms shown in Fig. 117. Then slits are cut
through the narrow rim of the mold by piercing the tin with the point of
a nail at the proper places for attaching them, as shown in the small
detail drawing, and the tab ends are pushed through the slits, bent
over, and clinched with a pair of pincers.
[Illustration: FIG. 117.--How Head, Feet, and Tail are Attached to a
Jelly Mould to Make the Turtle shown in Fig. 115.]
[Illustration: FIG. 118.--The Spool Wheels and the Rubber-bands which
Propel them.]
A thread spool 1-1/4 inches long forms the _wheels_ on which the turtle
runs, and two rubber-bands 1-1/2 inches long propel it. Cut a piece of a
lead pencil a trifle longer then the spool, split it into halves, remove
the lead, and insert the rubber bands in the groove; then slip the piece
of pencil into the hole in the spool (Fig. 118). The rubber-band ends
must project an equal distance beyond the spool-ends. Before fastening
the spool to the tin mold shell, tie the end of a piece of heavy linen
thread to its center, and then wind about twenty turns about it. Pierce
a hole through each side of the mold a trifle in front of the center,
and after slipping pieces of string through the ends of the rubber-bands
(Fig. 118), tie them through the holes pierced through the sides of the
mold. Pierce a hole through the shell, directly over the center of the
spool, slip the free end of the thread wound on the spool through this
hole, and tie it to a fancy-work ring (Fig. 117).
=To Make the Turtle Crawl=, place it upon the floor, pull on the ring,
and as the thread unwinds from the spool the rubber-bands will twist;
then slacken the thread, and the turtle will crawl along the floor. As
the rubber-bands untwist, the thread will wind up on the spool again.
Continue pulling and slackening the thread alternately, and the turtle
will continue to crawl.
CHAPTER IX
HOME-MADE TOPS
There are many styles of tops, probably more than you ever dreamed of,
and it will surprise you to hear that the owners of some of the most
curious forms are bearded men who take as much delight as any girl or
boy in spinning them. A few years ago on Murray Island, which is way
down among the South Sea Islands, top spinning took such a strong hold
upon the attention of the natives that they neglected their work, and
families often were without food, boys and girls having to go to school
hungry. Matters became so serious, in fact, as a result of this fad for
top spinning, that, finally, the head chieftain was compelled to
restrict it to certain days. There are many experts among these South
Sea Islanders. The men sing songs while their tops spin, cheer them on,
and take the greatest precautions to shelter them from wind. An eye
witness of a contest reported that the winning top spun 27 minutes,
which you must admit is a pretty long time.
Whip-tops and peg-tops of several varieties can be purchased at the
corner candy store, but the kinds I am going to show you how to make
cannot be bought anywhere.
=Clock Wheel Tops.= A splendid spinner can be made of the little
balance-wheel of a broken clock (Fig. 119). This little wheel is so
accurately made that it will spin very steadily from a minute and
one-half to two minutes. As the ends of this wheel's axle are pointed,
the top will stand in one spot as long as it spins.
[Illustration: FIGS. 119 and 120.--Clock Wheel Tops.]
[Illustration: FIG. 121.--Upholstering Tack Top.]
[Illustration: FIG. 122.--How to Hold Upholstering Tack for Spinning.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 123 and 124.--Details of Spool Top.]
The toothed wheel shown in Fig. 120, or any of the other forms of wheels
from a clockwork will make good spinners, yet, unless you file their
pivot ends to points, they will not spin in one spot but will glide and
hop over the table in spirals. The friction thus produced decreases the
length of time that they will spin, but makes them none the less
interesting as tops. Great fun may be had spinning these wheel tops
around the balance-wheel top, while the latter is spinning. Figure 129
shows how to hold a clock wheel between the thumb and first finger, for
spinning. Start it with a snapping movement of the fingers.
=A Rug-tack Top.= A rug tack or large upholstering tack is another good
spinner. While the clockwork wheels are spun by twirling them by means
of the upper end of the pivots, the tack top is spun by holding the
spinning point between the thumb and first finger, as shown in Fig. 122,
then giving it a quick twirl and dropping it upon a table. The tack top
is an eccentric spinner. First it hops about in a very lively fashion;
then, when you think it is about ready to topple over, it regains its
balance and for some seconds spins quite as steadily as the clockwork
balance-wheel top. The tack top can be spun upon its head as well as
upon its point.
[Illustration: FIG. 125.--A Shoe-polish Can Top.]
=A Spool Top.= The top in Fig. 123 is made from a half of a spool and a
short piece of lead-pencil. Saw a spool into halves, and then taper one
half from its beveled end to the center. Sharpen the piece of pencil to
a point, and push it through the spool until its point projects just a
trifle. Spin the spool top in the same way as the clock wheel tops.
=A Spinning Top Race-track.= By drawing a track upon a piece of
cardboard, as shown in Fig. 129, with an opening on the inside, great
fun may be had by starting any one of the small tops just described,
with the exception of the balance-wheel top, in the center of the space
inside of the track, and tilting the cardboard so as to cause the top to
spin through the opening on to the track, and around the track. There is
a trick in keeping the top from running off the track that can be
acquired only with practice.
=A Shoe-polish Can Top= (Fig. 125). This is a sure-enough good looking
top, and it spins as well as it looks. It is made of a pencil, a
cone-shaped piece cut from a spool, similar to the top shown in Fig.
123, and an empty shoe-polish can.
[Illustration: FIGS. 126-128.--Details of Shoe-polish Can Top.]
The dotted line in Fig. 126 indicates how the end of the pencil sticks
through a hole in the shoe-polish can, then through the cone-shaped
piece of spool. The hole through the can must be located in the exact
center, so the top will balance properly. To find the center, place the
box bottom down upon a piece of paper, and with a pencil draw a line
around it. Cut the paper along the center, and you will have a piece the
shape and size of the can bottom. Fold the piece in half, then in half
again the other way (Fig. 127), open it up, and the intersection of the
two folds, indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 128, will be the exact
center. With the center located, place the piece of paper first upon the
bottom, then upon the top of the can, and punch a hole through the
center of it and the can, with the point of a large nail. Increase the
size of the hole enough to admit the pencil.
[Illustration: FIG. 129.--A Spinning Top Race-track.]
Spin this top in the manner shown in Fig. 125. Hold the upper part of
the pencil between your hands, with the palms together, and slide your
hands back and forth, first slowly, then rapidly. Release it so as to
cause it to drop squarely upon its point upon a level wooden surface.
The steadiness of this top's spinning will depend entirely upon the
accuracy with which you cut the center hole for the pencil.
=A Spiral Top.= The top in Fig. 130 presents a curious appearance while
spinning, the spiral design upon it seeming to change its form as the
top revolves.
[Illustration: FIG. 130.--A Spiral Top.]
The only difference between the construction of this top and the
shoe-polish can top is in the substitution of the spiral disk for the
polish can. A pencil and cone-shaped piece of spool are required as in
the case of the other top.
[Illustration: FIG. 131.--Diagram of Spiral for Spiral Top.]
The spiral design for the disk, shown in Fig. 131, is large enough so
you can make a tracing of it on a piece of transparent paper, and then
trace it off upon a piece of cardboard. Fill in alternate rings with
black ink or water-color, in the way shown, then cut out the disk,
pierce a hole through its exact center to fit over the pencil end, and
glue the under side to the top of the cone-shaped piece of spool. Spin
this top in the same way as the shoe-polish can top is spun (Fig. 125).
=A Merry-go-round Top= (Fig. 132) is a new idea easily carried out. You
will require a cardboard disk 12 inches in diameter, three spools, a
pencil, and some light-weight cardboard.
[Illustration: FIG. 132.--A Merry-go-round Top.]
Figure 133 shows the details for this top. If you haven't a compass, use
a large-sized dinner plate with which to draw the circumference of the
disk (_A_). Then cut a conical-shaped piece of spool (_B_), stick the
lead-pencil through it for a spinning point (_C_), punch a hole through
the disk to fit over the pencil, and tack the disk to _B_. Cut off a
third of the length of a ribbon spool for _E_, and fasten another spool
(_D_) to the top of the pencil. Spool _D_ should be glued fast to the
pencil, and the spool-end _E_ should turn loosely upon it. Coat the
lower part of the pencil with glue so it will stick fast in _B_.
[Illustration: FIG. 133.--Detail of Merry-go-round Top.]
=How the Top Spins.= When you have made this much of the top, spin it to
see how it works. Wrap the spinning cord--a strong light-weight
wrapping-twine--about spool _D_, in the same manner that you wind the
cord on any top; then, holding spool end _E_ with the left hand (Fig.
132), pull steadily upon the cord with the right hand until all is
unwound, and gently drop the top upon its spinning point. To get the
best results, the cardboard used for the disk platform must be very
straight. If it warps, flatten it by pressing it under a pile of books.
[Illustration: FIG. 134.--How Horses are Mounted upon Top Platform.]
=Horses and Riders= for the merry-go-round may be prepared like those
of the clockwork merry-go-round in Chapter X (Figs. 143, 146, and 147).
Figure 134 shows how two burnt matches or toothpicks are lashed to the
legs of the horses for supports, and Fig. 133 shows how holes are
pierced through the disk platform to stick them in.
=A Flag= mounted upon spool _D_ will make the merry-go-round top
complete.
CHAPTER X
HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS
The toys shown opposite page 90 are a few of the many mechanical toys
which can be operated by clockwork, and they are easy to make, too,
requiring no more mechanical ability than is possessed by the average
boy old enough to handle the simplest of tools.
Generally it is easy to find an old clock somewhere about the house, and
a clock which has been discarded simply because it has become worthless
as a timekeeper is perfectly good for operating these toys, provided the
_mainspring_ is in working order. It is not necessary to have a set of
works for each toy, for they are so quickly fastened in place that but a
minute is required to transfer the works from one toy to another.
Before commencing work upon the toys, get together
=The Other Necessary Materials.= These will consist of cigar boxes,
cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads, and a few pieces from the
woodpile, with one or two additional articles which are mentioned later
on. Brads 5/8 inch and 1 inch in length should be purchased for
fastening the framework of the toys together, and the cigar boxes should
be about 8 inches by 4 inches by 2 inches in size. Remove the paper
from the boxes as described on page 175.
=To Prepare the Clockwork= for use, remove it from its case, detach the
hands and face, and pry off the small wheel pivoted directly under the
hands; this wheel is shown at _A_ in Fig. 139. Remove also the
_balance-wheel B_ (Fig. 139) and the _lever C_ pivoted next to it, to
increase the speed of the remaining wheels.
[Illustration: FIG. 139.--How the Clockwork Motor is Fastened to the
Cigar-box Cover.
(This Box has been cut down to the Proper Length for the Ferris Wheel.)]
Fasten the clockwork motor for
=The Merry-go-round= shown in Fig. 135 to the cover of a cigar box, as
illustrated in Figs. 136 and 139, boring holes through the cover with a
gimlet for the _pivot_ ends on the back of the works to set into. Remove
the lower flange from a spool (_D_, Fig. 139) and fasten the spool on to
the central pivot of the clockwork in the position formerly occupied by
wheel _A_. The hole in the spool will be too large for the pivot and
must be filled up with sealing-wax. To do this, hold a piece of
sealing-wax above the spool and melt it with a lighted match, allowing
it to drip into the hole until the latter is about half full, then press
the wax down with the end of a match until it is compact, smooth it off
on the bottom of the spool, and make a dent in it with a pencil to
indicate the exact center of the hole. Heat the end of the pivot with a
lighted match, and press it into the dent in the wax, being careful in
doing so to get the spool straight upon the pivot. Cut a hole through
the bottom of the cigar box belonging to the cover to which you have
attached the works, for spool _D_ to project through (Fig. 139).
=To Make the Standard= for the merry-go-round, cut four strips of wood 8
inches long, and fasten one to each corner of the cigar box, turning the
bottom side of the box up; then cut a piece of 1/2-inch board 10 inches
square, locate its center _F_ by drawing diagonal lines from corner to
corner as shown in Fig. 140, bore a 1-inch hole through it at this point
for spool _D_ (Fig. 136), and then nail the box to the center of the
board as shown in Fig. 140.
[Illustration: FIG. 135. A MERRY-GO-ROUND.]
[Illustration: FIG. 136. A CLOCKWORK MOTOR.]
[Illustration: FIG. 137. A FERRIS WHEEL.]
[Illustration: FIG. 138. THE "FLYING AIRSHIPS."]
[Illustration: FIG. 140.--Plan of Top of Standard for Merry-go-round.]
[Illustration: FIG. 141.--Pattern for Tent of Merry-go-round.]
[Illustration: FIG. 142.--The Tent ready to be Fastened upon a
Tent-pole.]
=The Tent= should be laid out upon heavy white paper as shown in Fig.
141. After describing a circle with a radius of 9 inches, describe
another circle within it with a radius of 7-1/2 inches, this inner
circle (shown by dotted lines in the diagram) being drawn for a guide
in fastening the tent upon its tent-poles. Cut out the tent along
the outer circle, and from it cut a triangular piece about the size
of that included between lines _KL_ and _ML_ in the diagram. Cover
the under edge of _KL_ and the upper edge of _ML_ with glue, lap _KL_
over to about _NL_, and rub down the edges with a cloth to make as
neat a joint between the pieces as possible (Fig. 142). Bore
a hole through each corner of the standard top (_G_, _H_, _I_, and _J_,
Fig. 140), then cut four sticks 7 inches long, sandpaper them until
smooth, and glue them into these holes for
=The Tent-poles.= When the tent has dried, tack it to the ends of the
poles, being careful to make it set evenly upon them; cut a scalloped
border out of red or blue paper and paste it to the edge all around as
shown in Fig. 135, and stick a small flag in the peak.
[Illustration: FIG. 143.--Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the
Merry-go-round.]
=The Horses.= A full-size pattern for these is shown in Fig. 143. Take a
piece of _tracing-paper_ or any thin transparent paper, and place it
over the pattern and make an exact copy; then rub a soft lead-pencil
over the other side of the paper, turn the paper over with the blackened
side down, and transfer the drawing six times upon a piece of
light-weight cardboard. Paint the horses with water-colors, using the
pattern as a guide for shading and marking them, then cut them out with
a sharp knife or a pair of scissors.
Figure 144 shows the pattern for
=The Sleighs.= Draw this out upon a piece of cardboard, cut it out and
fold along the dotted lines, then turn in the flaps and glue them to the
dashboard and to the back. Cut two seats by the pattern given, bend down
the flaps and glue them to the sides of the sleigh, and make the back
for the front seat like that on the back seat (Fig. 145). Then make
another sleigh similar to the one just completed, for two are required
for the merry-go-round. Paint the sleighs green or yellow with trimmings
of a lighter shade.
[Illustration: FIG. 144.--Pattern for the Merry-go-round Sleighs.]
Figure 136 shows
=The Shafts= upon which the horses and sleighs are mounted. Cut them
5-1/2 inches long, whittle them round, and rub them down with
sandpaper. The shafts are fastened in a spool hub which has five holes
bored in it (_E_, Fig. 136); bore the holes with a gimlet or small
drill, marking them off first with a pencil to be sure of getting them
spaced at equal distances. Point the ends of the shafts and glue them
into the holes in the hub, then connect this spool to spool _D_ with a
piece of a lead-pencil 2 inches long (Fig. 136).
[Illustration: FIG. 145.--A Completed Sleigh showing Attachment to
Shaft.]
To fasten the horses to the shafts, punch a hole through three of them
at _X_ (Fig. 143) and slip each one over a shaft, then tack the other
three horses to the ends of these shafts at the point _X_. To fasten the
sleighs to the remaining shafts, glue one end of a piece of paper to the
back of the front seat and the other end around the shaft (Fig. 145).
=The Girl Riders= for the sleighs are shown full size in Fig. 146, and
=The Boy Riders= for the horses are shown full size in Fig. 147. Make
tracings from the patterns as you made that of the horse and prepare
four girls and six boys. Paint their clothes in bright colors. Cut a
second leg for each boy rider, so he can be made to sit astride of his
horse, and glue the leg to his hip as shown in Fig. 148. Cut a slit in
each seat of the sleigh and stick the flaps on the girl riders in them.
[Illustration: FIG. 146.--Full-size Pattern for the Girl Riders.]
[Illustration: FIG. 147.--Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders.]
[Illustration: FIG. 148.--How the Second Leg of the Boy is Attached.]
=For the Platform= shown directly under the horses and sleighs in Fig.
135, cut a piece of cardboard 11 inches in diameter; if you choose to
make the Ferris wheel before the merry-go-round, you may use the center
pieces removed in cutting out the rims, as noted in Fig. 153. Punch a
hole through the center of this disk large enough for the peg connecting
spools _D_ and _E_ to slip through. This platform rests upon the top of
spool _D_ and revolves with it.
=To Operate the Merry-go-round.= The key by which the mainspring is
wound up is shown screwed in place on the under side of the cigar-box
cover in Fig. 139. While winding the mainspring, it will be necessary to
have some means of checking it so it will not unwind at the same time,
and the best scheme for a check is to bore a small gimlet hole through
the cover of the cigar box and stick a match through this and run it
between the spokes of one of the clock wheels so as to prevent it from
turning. Then when you have wound up the spring and are ready to start
the merry-go-round, all you have to do is to pull out the match.
The model of this toy which the author has before him runs for five
minutes with one winding, and any boy can make one which will run as
well if he follows the directions given and uses a reasonable amount of
carefulness in the work.
=Other Animals= than horses may be used if you wish to follow the
arrangement of some of the latest merry-go-rounds, and pictures of these
may be found among the colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores,
or if you can draw well, you may copy them from books and magazines.
Great fun may be had by changing the positions of the boy riders, making
them ride backward part of the time and sometimes two and three boys on
a horse.
Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel, and a good many of
you have ridden in the smaller wheels patterned after it, at the
amusement parks, so you will be interested in making
=A Miniature Ferris Wheel= like the one shown in Fig. 137.
=The Standard= for supporting the wheel (Fig. 149) consists of two
triangular supports, one with a spool hub fastened to its top for the
axle of the wheel to run through and the other with the cigar box
inclosing the clockwork fastened to it. Figures 150, 151, and 152 show
the construction of these supports. Cut strips _P_ and _Q_ 12 inches
long and _R_ 10 inches long, and trim off the upper ends of _P_ and _Q_
so when they are nailed together the lower ends will be 8 inches apart;
nail strip _R_ to the lower ends of _P_ and _Q_ (Fig. 150). To fasten
the spool hub to its support, smear one side of a piece of tape with
glue and wind it several times around the spool (Fig. 151), then set the
spool on top of the support and press the ends of the tape against the
sides of strips _P_ and _Q_ (Fig. 152).
[Illustration: FIG. 149.--Standard for the Ferris Wheel.]
=The Clockwork Motor= for the Ferris wheel is fastened to the cover of a
cigar box just as that for the merry-go-round was fastened (Fig. 139),
but the length of the box is cut down as much as the clockwork will
allow to make the box as square and compact as possible.
It is very necessary to have the axle bearings exactly on a line in
order to have the wheel run smoothly, so, in fastening the cigar box to
its support, be sure that the center of the hole in spool _D_ (Fig.
139) is on a level with the spool hub on the opposite support. Nail the
supports to a 10-inch by 12-inch board, 8 inches apart, and fasten a
cigar box between them for
=The Station Platform= (Fig. 149).
[Illustration: FIG. 150.--Make Two Supports like this for the Ferris
Wheel Standard.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 151 and 152.--How a Spool is Fastened to the Top of
the Support for a Hub.]
=To Make the Wheel=, first lay out the rims upon a piece of heavy
cardboard, using the radii shown in Fig. 153 for describing the circles,
then lay the sheet of cardboard upon a board and
=Cut out the Rims= with a sharp knife, being careful not to run off of
the pencil line. The
=Hubs= of the wheel are spools with six holes bored in them for the
spokes to fit in (Fig. 156). Cut six
=Spokes= 5-3/4 inches long by 1/8 inch thick for each hub, and cut a
slot in one end of each for the cardboard rims to fit in (Figs. 154 and
157). Use a saw rather than a knife in making the slots, for it will
make a kerf of just the right width to receive the cardboard and will
not be so apt to split the ends of the slender spokes. Whittle the hub
ends of the spokes to fit the holes in the spool hubs (Figs. 154 and
157). In
[Illustration: FIG. 153.--How to Lay out the Cardboard Rims of the
Ferris Wheel.]
[Illustration: FIG. 154.--The Spokes Fitted into the Spool Hub.]
[Illustration: FIG. 155.--The Rim Slipped into the End of the Spokes.]
=Putting together the Spokes, Hubs, and Rims= of the wheel, first stick
three spokes in a hub and slip a rim into the slots in their ends, then
stick the remaining spokes into the hub, one at a time, and spread the
rim enough so it can be slipped into their slots (Fig. 155).
[Illustration: FIG. 156.--A Spool Hub for the Wheel.]
[Illustration: FIG. 157.--How the Spokes, Rims, and Axles are Fastened
Together.]
When the hubs, rims, and spokes have been assembled, lay them aside and
get some heavy wrapping-paper or thin cardboard out of which
=To Make the Cars.= The pattern for the cars is shown in Fig. 158, and
on it you will find all the dimensions necessary for laying it out to
the proper size. It will be understood that the unfigured portions of
the drawing are the same as those with dimensions marked upon them. The
dotted lines at the door and window openings indicate where the cutting
is to be done, while all other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard
is to be _scored_ and folded.
[Illustration: FIG. 158.--Pattern for the Ferris Wheel Cars.]
Use a ruler in making the drawing of the car to get the lines straight,
and when you have finished it go over it carefully and compare it with
the illustration to be sure it is correct, after which make a careful
tracing of it, turn it over and transfer the drawing five times upon
cardboard. These and your original drawing will give you the required
number of cars. Cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do the
rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors; punch a 1/4-inch hole in
each end of each car with a lead-pencil (Fig. 158), being careful to get
the holes exactly opposite. In folding and gluing the cars, slip the
flaps inside and bend the roofs so they will follow the curve of the
ends (Fig. 159).
[Illustration: FIG. 159.--A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel.]
When the cars have been completed, cut six sticks 5 inches long, whittle
them down until they are about 3/16 inch in diameter, and sandpaper them
until they are perfectly round and smooth. These sticks connect the rims
of the wheel and form
=The Axles= from which the cars are hung (Fig. 159). Great care must be
used in fastening them between the rims, for they are easily split, and
the best way to do is to start a hole first in the ends of each axle
with an awl or by driving a brad part way in and then withdrawing it;
then drive a brad through each spoke of one rim into an axle (Fig. 157);
slip the other ends of the axles through the holes in the ends of the
cars (Fig. 159), and nail the spokes of the other rim to them.
=To Mount the Wheel= upon its standard, whittle an axle 8-1/2 inches
long to fit the hubs, then hold the wheel between the two uprights, with
the hubs on a line with the spool bearings and run the axle through the
holes (Fig. 137).
=Build Steps= at each end of the platform out of heavy writing-paper or
light cardboard. Fold the paper or cardboard back and forth, making
pleats about 1/4 inch wide for the steps, and after gluing it in place
cut out the _balustrades_ and glue them to the edges of the steps. Make
the top step low enough so there will be about 1/4-inch clearance
between it and the bottom of the cars (Fig. 137).
After you have made a final inspection to see that everything has been
put together properly, your toy will be ready for operation, and I am
sure that when you set the clockwork machinery in motion, and the little
wheel begins to revolve slowly with each little car balancing upon its
axle, you will agree that you have constructed a very interesting toy.
=The "Flying Airships"= is a riding device consisting of a number of
cars suspended by steel cables from large arms pivoted to the top of a
tower. When the machinery is started, the arms begin to revolve slowly,
and the motion produced causes the cars to swing out away from the
center. As the speed of the arms increases, the cars swing out farther
and farther, until when the highest speed has been reached the cables by
which the cars are suspended have taken an oblique position and raised
the cars some distance above the ground; then the speed of the engine
is gradually diminished, and the cars finally regain their former
position. This piece of apparatus is also known as an _aerostat_.
You will find the miniature flying airships (Fig. 138) easy to construct
after making a merry-go-round or Ferris wheel, as many of its details
are identical with those of the other toys.
=The Standard= for the toy is made similar to the one for the
merry-go-round (Fig. 135), except that the top board is omitted and a
circular piece of cardboard of the size of the disks removed in cutting
out the rims of the Ferris wheel is substituted in its place. Cut a hole
through the exact center of the piece large enough so it will fit over
spool _D_ (Fig. 136).
=Cut a Mast= about 14 inches long and of the diameter of the hole in the
spool and stick it into spool _D_; then 3 inches below the top of the
mast fasten a spool with four horizontal arms 6 inches long glued into
holes bored in it. Fasten a crosspiece 4-1/2 inches long to the end of
each arm with brads, and from these suspend
=Cars= made similar to those of the Ferris wheel, with cords. Set a
small flag in a hole bored in the top of the mast and then run cords
from the top of the mast out to the ends of the arm pieces.
With this toy the cars cannot be swung out obliquely as on the large
flying airships except by
=Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork.= This can be accomplished by
removing one or two of the wheels of the clockwork, but it is not
advisable to take out more than one wheel in addition to those removed
for the merry-go-round (Fig. 139) because the mainspring would require
rewinding too often to make the toy enjoyable.
=An Electric Motor= can be belted to these toys as a substitute for the
clockwork, if you own one and prefer to try it out.
The clockwork toys just described were invented by the author for his
book "Handicraft for Handy Boys," and were the first designs, he
believes, devised for home-made mechanical toys of this nature. No doubt
you have noticed that manufacturers of the so-called "construction
sets"--steel and wood strips supplied with bolts and screws for
assembling--have used these very same forms of models to show what can
be made with their outfits. But your Ferris wheel, merry-go-round, and
aerostat, built as described in this chapter, with materials picked up
at home, will be the equal of any that can be built, and you will have
the satisfaction of knowing that you haven't required an expensive
"construction set" for making them.
All sorts of toy vehicles can be operated by clockwork. Figure 160 shows
=An Automobile=, and Fig. 161 shows how the clockwork motor is mounted
upon the chassis and belted to the driving wheel. The same scheme that
was used for the cars of the toy railway described in Chapter VI will be
followed in making
[Illustration: FIG. 160. THE CAR COMPLETED.]
[Illustration: FIG. 161. THE FRAMEWORK.]
[Illustration: FIG. 162.--Top View of Wooden Frame.]
=The Frame= of the automobile, as that is about the simplest way, and
makes a light, easy-running vehicle. The bed will be cut of a different
pattern, however, as will be seen in Fig. 162. Lay out the piece to the
dimensions shown upon this drawing, and then cut it out, making a
mortise in each end for the wheels to fit in. The spool wheels should be
mounted in the same manner as those of the railway cars, for which see
Fig. 80, Chapter VI, and the directions upon page 51. One end of spool
_A_ should be pivoted with a longer finishing nail than those used for
the other pivots, so that when driven in place about half an inch will
project beyond the frame. A small silk spool should be fastened upon
this for a belt-wheel (see _B_, Fig. 162). The hole in one of these
spools is about three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter, so, in order to
make it fit tightly upon the nail, it is necessary to fill in around the
nail with sealing-wax. To do this, turn the wooden frame upon its edge
and place the spool over the nail, being careful to get the nail in the
exact center of the hole. Then hold a stick of sealing-wax over the
spool, and with a lighted match melt the end and allow it to drip into
the hole. When the hole has been partially filled, allow the wax to
harden a little, and then press it down around the nail with the end of
a match, being careful not to throw the spool out of center by doing so.
The hole should then be filled to the top.
We are now ready to prepare the clockwork for mounting upon the wooden
frame. The works shown in Fig. 161 are from an alarm clock, but if you
have a striking clock, or one with works a little different from those
shown in the illustration, it does not make a bit of difference in the
scheme for attaching the works. The three parts shown in the foreground
of Fig. 161 must first be removed from the works. These will be
recognized readily in any clock, as they are pivoted close together, and
regulate the speed of the other wheels. When they have been removed, the
mainspring will unwind rapidly. The frame of the works shown in the
illustration is held together with nuts, so that in removing the wheels
it was necessary to unscrew two of them, spring the frame open enough to
let the wheels drop out, and then replace the nuts again in their former
positions. If the frame of your clockwork is riveted together, the
wheels will have to be broken out. A small silk spool, such as _B_ (Fig.
162), should be fastened upon the small pivot which originally operated
the clock's hands, for a belt-wheel. Lay the works upon a table with the
face-side down, and, after centering the hole of the spool upon the
pivot, fasten it in place with sealing-wax in the same manner as you
attached spool _B_ (Fig. 161).
The works should now be attached to the wooden frame. Place them with
the striker uppermost, near the edge of the frame, so that the small
belt-wheels are in line with one another. Then bore a number of gimlet
holes in the wooden frame and run copper wire through them, passing it
around the posts of the clock-frame and twisting its ends until the
works are firmly fastened in place.
A rubber band about an eighth of an inch wide and long enough to reach
from one belt-wheel to the other should be procured for
=The Belt.= This should stretch just enough to cling upon the spools, as
more than that would cause too much friction.
Before going any further with the construction of the automobile
=Test the Machine=, to be sure that it is in perfect running order. Wind
up the mainspring, pressing a finger against one of the wheels to hold
it in check until you are ready to start the machine. When properly
made, the clockwork automobile should run a distance of from twenty to
twenty-five feet upon a wooden floor, while about three-quarters of that
distance should be covered upon a floor with a fairly smooth carpet.
=The Cardboard Sides= and other details of the automobile should now be
made. The patterns for these have been so shown in Figs 163 to 170 that
they can easily be laid out to the proper shape and size by means of the
process of enlarging by squares described on page 175, Chapter XVII.
White cardboard should be used upon which to draw these pieces, and the
thinner it is the easier you will find it to work with.
[Illustration: FIGS. 163-170.--Patterns for the Automobile
Touring-car.]
[Illustration: FIG. 171.--Chauffeur.]
[Illustration: FIG. 172.--Cardboard Side of Automobile.]
First prepare the two sides, cutting them out by the pattern of Fig.
163. Then glue the bottom edge of each side to the edge of the wooden
frame, cutting holes in the left side for the belt-wheels and projecting
posts to run through (see Fig. 160 and _A_, _B_, _C_, _D_, and _E_, Fig.
172). The top to the front of the car should now be cut as shown in Fig.
173, the distance between the sides being measured to get the piece of
proper dimensions. Bend the edges as in Fig. 173, and glue them to the
inner surfaces of the side pieces as shown by the dotted lines in Fig.
172. In the same way cut and glue a piece of cardboard between the side
pieces at _G_ and _H_ (Fig. 172) for the seat-backs. The bent edges of
these pieces are shown by dotted lines in the illustration. Draw four
=Wheels= as shown in Fig. 164, using a compass with which to describe
the circles, and cut them out with a sharp knife. You can cut out
between the spokes, if you wish, or leave them solid. Glue the wheels to
the cardboard, placing their centers about as located at _I_ and _J_,
Fig. 172. Four
=Mud-Guards= should be cut like Fig. 165, with flaps made along one
edge. Then bend these guards around the tops of the wheels, and, after
applying glue to the flaps, press them against the cardboard side,
holding your fingers upon the flaps until the glue has dried (see Fig.
160). The guards should be placed a little above the tops of the wheels.
Cut four
=Lamps= like Fig. 166 and glue end _K_ of two upon the front of the
automobile at _L_ (Fig. 172) and one of the other two upon each side at
_M_. These lamps are shown in position in the illustration of the
completed automobile (Fig. 160). Draw and cut
[Illustration: FIG. 173.--The Hood.]
=The Steering-wheel= similar to Fig. 167, and, after pivoting it to the
end of a strip of cardboard with a pin as shown in Fig. 174, bend the
lower end and glue it to the under side of the cardboard top _F_ at _N_
(see Fig. 172, also Fig. 160). Make a
=Horn= like Fig. 168 and glue it to the steering-wheel as shown in Fig.
174. A strip of cardboard about the size of that used for the upright of
the steering-wheel should be cut for
=The Brake=, and glued to the inside surface of the right side of the
car at _O_ (Fig. 172).
=The Chauffeur= should now be made. Cut his head and body the shape and
size of Fig. 169, drawing the face upon each side with goggles over the
eyes. Cut the arms in two pieces the shape of _P_ and _Q_ (Fig. 170),
and then pivot _P_ to _Q_ at _R_ and the end of _Q_ to the shoulder of
the body at _S_, using thread for fastening the pieces together. Paint
the hat, coat, sleeves, and gloves a leather color, and the face flesh
color. The body should then be fastened to the hammer of the clockworks
with sealing-wax, as shown in Fig. 171, while the left hand should be
glued to the edge of the steering-wheel and the right to the end of the
brake (see Fig. 160). By thus attaching the body to the end of the
hammer, and winding up the small spring, the chauffeur will shake
violently when the auto runs across the floor, showing the vibrations of
the machine in a greatly exaggerated and amusing manner.
[Illustration: FIG. 174.--The Steering-wheel.]
It is now only necessary to
=Paint the Machine= to complete it. The photograph (Fig. 160) shows
where different colors are needed. The lamps, top, ends, and sides of
the front portion of the car should be painted the color of brass, and
the rest of the sides, with the exception of a strip along the bottom
and the edge of the arms, should be painted vermilion. Paint the inside
of the car and the edges of the seat-arms tan color, to represent
leather upholstering. With black paint, or ink, stripe off the door and
trimmings upon the sides and top of the machine, as shown in Figs. 160,
172, and 173. Blacken the brake and steering-wheel and the spokes and
rims of the wheels. Along the bottom of each side glue a strip of
cardboard for the running-boards.
When you have tired of your touring-car, you can easily convert it into