Bangor.—Inns.—The Cathedral.—Penrhyn Castle.—The Britannia and Menai
Bridges.—Carnarvon.—The Castle.—Rhyl.—Holywell.—St. Winefred’s
Well.—Basingwerk.—Flint.—Chester.—Conclusion.
“When the heathen trumpet’s clang
Round beleaguer’d Chester rang,
Veiled nun and friar grey
March’d from Bangor’s fair Abbaye;
High their holy Anthem sounds,
Cestria’s vale the hymn rebounds,
Floating down the silver Dee,
O Miserere Domine!”
SIR WALTER SCOTT.
BANGOR.
This town derives its name from Ban Cor, which means the high choir.
We stopped at the Penrhyn Arms, a most commodious inn, which is capable,
it is said, of making up one hundred beds nightly. It occupies a
commanding situation, and from the back premises embraces a noble
prospect;—the Straits, the Shore of Anglesey, the Bay of Beaumaris,
Penrhyn Castle, Puffin Island, Penmaen Mawr, and the Great Orme’s Head,
with the ocean in the distance.
There are other excellent inns in the town, namely the Castle, the
Liverpool Arms, and the Albion; the latter is extremely comfortable, and
the landlord civil and obliging, as I most willingly testify from
experience. There is no place in Wales so well calculated for a tourist
to make his head quarters as Bangor. The various spots he may visit by
appropriating a day to each, would supply him with gratification for a
month at least.
Near the spot where the London road branches off from the Chester, is the
grand entrance to Penrhyn Castle, the property of Col. the Hon. D.
Pennant, M.P. The lodge is a beautiful specimen of substantial
architecture; it is protected by a corresponding gateway, massive and
imposing. The park wall extends circularly seven miles, and is thirteen
feet high. To describe the magnificence of the interior of the castle I
feel would prove a vain effort, and I earnestly recommend all tourists
who take this route not to quit the neighbourhood without seeing it, or
they will be reproached for slighting one of the grandest treats old
Cambria can afford them.
THE CATHEDRAL
Was founded by Maelgwn Gwynedd, King of Wales, of whom I have had
occasion to speak before, as the patron of Taliesin, the celebrated Welsh
bard.
The original edifice, which was erected in 525, was destroyed in 1071,
and rebuilt shortly after, but was again reduced to ruins by Owen
Glyndwr, and for ninety years was neglected, until Bishop Dean restored
the choir, and the body of the tower was rebuilt by Bishop Skeffington,
in 1532, which still remains in a perfect state of preservation. The
free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, upon the site of
an ancient parish church, built by King Edgar, within about 400 yards of
the present cathedral, and is considered an excellent preparatory
seminary for Oxford and Cambridge.
The remains of an ancient castle, built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester,
in the reign of Henry the Second, are still visible upon a rock opposite
to the free school, and some pieces of scoria, found on the spot, lead us
to suppose arrows were manufactured there. At the back of the Friar’s
School is another hill, and on the top of it are the remains of a British
encampment.
The town, within the last twenty years, has been extended to nearly four
times its original magnitude, and possesses an appearance of cleanliness
particularly gratifying.
The great lions of Bangor are the Menai and Britannia Tubular Bridges.
THE MENAI BRIDGE.
The principal opening between the supporting pillars is 560 feet in
breadth, through which the vessels pass with all their canvas set,
without the least danger of their masts touching the overhanging bridge.
There are four stone arches upon the Anglesey side, and three upon the
Carnarvon, which complete the roadway, and have each a span of fifty
feet. The length of the bridge is 800 feet, and its height is 100 feet
above the surface of the Menai at high water. The weight of the bridge
and its suspending chains, between the pyramids is six hundred and
thirty-nine tons, nineteen hundred and nine pounds; and that of the iron
work from one extremity of the chains to the other is estimated at 2130
tons, 1800 consisting of wrought, and three hundred and thirty of cast
iron.
The first stone of this astonishing work was laid by W. A. Provis, Esq.,
on the 10th August, 1820; and on the 20th April, 1825, the first main
chain was thrown across the strait. This important step being completed,
three of the workmen, in the height of their enthusiasm, ventured to walk
along the chain from pier to pier; and a cobbler no less daring and
enthusiastic, seated himself in the centre of the curve, and, while
suspended at the fearful height, with sky above and the deep water of the
strait gliding beneath him, drove the last sparable into one of those
convenient comforts called clogs.
The view from the centre of the bridge beggars description. Waving
woods, barren precipices, distant mountains, Bangor, and Beaumaris,
Penrhyn Castle, Penmaen Mawr, the Great Orme’s Head, the ocean, and the
strait, are objects that dazzle and astonish from the exquisite beauty of
their natural arrangement.
But even this, the noblest specimen of hanging bridges in the world, is
eclipsed by the monster
BRITANNIA TUBULAR BRIDGE,
which crosses the Straits about a mile above it on the Carnarvonshire
side. Fully to appreciate this monster work of human ingenuity, the
traveller should ascend the Britannia Tower, which rises from a rock in
the centre of the Straits, and gaze upon the glorious panorama which
surrounds him. Upon the Carnarvonshire side he will behold the mountains
of Snowdonia veiling their lofty summits in the clouds. Along their
sides, and through their mighty bulks, the railroad train now rolls its
dragon form, shaking their rocky ribs, and awakening their echoes in its
swift and thundering course; beneath him are the Menai Straits, through
which the imprisoned waters of the Irish Sea and St. George’s Channel
vibrate everlastingly backwards and forwards, at the same time
successively rise and fall, occasioning an endless succession of aqueous
changes. Upon the shores of Anglesey a rich and fertile country studded
with villas, surrounded by luxuriant woods, and waving corn, presents
itself, forming a pleasing contrast to the wild grandeur of the Snowdon
Hills, and exhibiting an example of the perfection of cultivation,
cheerful labour, and undisturbed tranquillity.
It was originally intended to carry the Chester and Holyhead line across
the Suspension Bridge, and to detach the trains at each end of the
bridge, leaving the carriages to be drawn over by horses, but the
government objected to this arrangement, considering that it would be
proved to be a public inconvenience. A bridge of two cast iron arches,
to be supported on piers of masonry, was next proposed: this second
project was objected to by the masters of the Carnarvon harbour, upon the
plea that it would seriously interfere with the navigation of the
Straits. At length Mr. Robert Stephenson offered to construct a mode of
transit which should entirely do away with all objections. He had come
to the conclusion that a tube, or tunnel of wrought iron, sufficiently
large for the passage of trains, would be the most plausible plan, as it
would neither endanger the navigation nor cause any delay to the railway
carriages in crossing over the Straits. His plan was adopted, and the
stupendous work of art which now awakens the astonishment of the
beholder, will bear the name of Stephenson down to remote posterity,
attached as it is to one of the brightest ornaments of the nineteenth
century.
From Bangor the traveller can proceed by rail to
CARNARVON,
which is one of the best towns in North Wales, the transit is performed
in less than half an hour, and he will reap unqualified pleasure by
examining the numerous interesting objects which render that celebrated
place so remarkable.
The present town of Carnarvon is sprung from the ruins of the ancient
Roman city of Segontium, which name the Welsh had changed into the apt
one of Caer yn Arvon, or the Fortress in Arvon, the district bordering on
Môn, the Welsh name for Anglesey. The site, which for the natural
strength of its position, was admirably chosen by our first Edward, is
bounded on the one side by the Menai, and by the estuary of the Seiont on
the other, and on the third and part of the fourth by the creek of the
Menai.
The castle is the chief object of attraction, and excites the admiration
of all who gaze upon its time-worn but majestic walls. The entrance to
it is beneath a huge tower, upon the front of which is carved the statue
of Edward, the founder, who grasps his dagger as if menacing his newly
acquired and most unwilling subjects. Unlike the towers of Conwy Castle,
which are round, those of Carnavon are polygonal, hexagonal, and
octagonal, and the tourist should notice especially the Eagle Tower,
which is the loftiest of them all, and which at one time possessed a
double interest, created by the popular belief that Edward the Second was
born within its walls; unfortunately, however, there are records in the
national archives which prove that the Eagle Tower was not finished until
that unhappy monarch was thirty years of age.
The castle covers about two and a half acres of ground, and forms an
oblong irregular square. The walls, which are at present exactly in the
same state as they were in the time of Edward, are defended by thirteen
great towers, the masonry of which is about seven feet nine inches in
thickness, and have within them a series of galleries with narrow œillets
or slips for the discharge of arrows. The walls of the Eagle Tower are
about nine feet six inches in thickness, and the view from its summit, of
the Menai and Anglesey on the one side, and Snowdonia on the other, is
extremely fine. The mutilated eagle upon the tower is supposed to be
Roman, and that Edward found it at Old Segontium.
Near the steep bank of the Seiont, at a short distance from the castle
are rather extensive remains of an ancient Roman fort, which, it would
seem, was intended to secure a landing place in the event of an attack.
A little above this, and about a quarter of a mile from the Menai, is the
site of the ancient Roman station Segontium, of which some fragments of a
wall are the only visible remains, but underground the relics are more
numerous; at the depth of a few feet occur foundations of buildings,
broken pottery, ashes, and so forth—while numerous coins (some of them
gold) and other Roman remains have, at various times, been exhumed.
According to Mathew of Westminster, Constantius, the father of
Constantine the Great, was interred here, and the same historian further
asserts that Edward found the body and caused it to be honourably buried
in the Church (it is supposed) of St. Publicius, or Llanbeblig.
Having gratified his curiosity, the traveller may once more take the
rails for Bangor, and, accompanied by pleasing visions of past greatness,
return to his inn well satisfied with his day’s excursion.
After remaining three days in this interesting neighbourhood, I took my
departure from Bangor towards Chester. The tourist who may be inclined
to follow my track, and has sufficient time to spare, should leave the
train at
RHYL,
A pretty watering place at the termination of the beautiful Vale of
Clwyd, and near the mouth of the river from which it derives its name.
The town is neat, and is yearly increasing in importance. From hence the
visitor will obtain a view of the Great Orme’s Head, the Puffin Island,
and the wide expanse of the Irish Sea. The sands are extensive, and
admirably adapted for sea bathing; the hotels are both commodious and
excellent.
I may mention that Rhuddlan, St. Asaph, and Denbigh, are within easy
distance from Rhyl, and will afford a pleasant day’s excursion. Quitting
Rhyl, a short ride conveys the traveller to
HOLYWELL,
So celebrated for its miraculous spring. The church of this place is
dedicated to Saint Winefred, and stands at the foot of a steep hill, but
it is so far removed from the upper town that the bells cannot be heard
by the people above, for which reason a very ancient custom is continued,
namely, a ringer is employed to go about the town with a large bell slung
around his shoulder, and a cushion fastened to his knees, against which
the bell beats as he walks, to summon the inhabitants to the house of
prayer; but the chief object of interest to visitors in this town is St.
Winefred’s Well, from which it takes its name of Holywell. The Roman
Catholic clergymen of ancient days, knew well how to impose on the
credulity of the ignorant laymen, when they were desirous of enriching
their establishments, as well perhaps as they do at the present period,
and for this purpose they invented amongst other absurd fallacies the
ridiculous fable of St. Winefred, which is carved upon a pendant
projection over the fountain, with the arms of England at the bottom.
ST. WINEFRED.
The legend is told thus:—Winefred was a beautiful and devout virgin, of
noble birth, and it is supposed lived in the early part of the seventh
century, under the guardianship of her uncle, the good Bueno, who had
founded a church here, and was conspicuous for his great piety. A young
prince of the country, of the name of Caradoc, saw the damsel, and was
enamoured with the beauty of her person, and resolved to attempt her
virtue; seizing an opportunity, when all but the fair Winefred were at
prayers, he declared to her his passion. She fled from his presence, but
before she could reach the sacred edifice, which stood at the foot of the
hill, even, as at the present day, the prince overtook her, and in a
paroxysm of rage and disappointment, he struck off her head, which
bounded down the hill, through the door of the church, to the foot of the
altar. Bueno raised up the head, and instead of a pool of blood, which
appeared for a moment, a fountain of clear water gushed forth. His
horror was great, when he found that the beautiful features, and golden
hair of the head he gazed upon, were those of his beloved niece. The
saint, for such Bueno afterwards became, took up the head, and with
devout prayers, joined it to the body, and to the wonder of all present
it immediately re-united, the place of separation being marked only by a
white line encircling the neck. The cruel Prince Caradoc fell dead on
the spot where he had committed the atrocious act. Winefred lived
fifteen years after this event, and founded a nunnery at Gwytherin,
Denbighshire, of which she became abbess, and died there.
The well is an oblong square, about twelve feet by seven, and the water
passes into a small square court, through an arch under which, it is
said, the Roman Catholics used to swim as an act of penance. Innumerable
are the miracles said to have been performed through the intervention of
the saint, and as countless is the list of devotees who have paid their
homage at her holy shrine, standing up to their chins in the water, and
pouring forth their prayers for hours together.
Putting aside all superstitious notions, the waters of the well possess
many sanative properties. Katherine of Arragon, the wife of Henry the
Eighth, was a benefactress to this building, and here her arms appear,
viz.: three pomegranates in a shield surmounted by a crown, the badge of
the House of Grenada. Isabel, Countess of Warwick, left to St. Winefred,
in 1439, her gown of russet velvet. In the church there is a bell which
was christened in honour of the saint, and at the ceremony a string of
virgins took hold of the rope, bestowed a name upon the bell, whilst the
priest sprinkling holy water baptised it, and put it into petticoats;
after which the ladies gave a grand feast, and made great presents, which
the priests received on behalf of the bell.
There are several good inns in the town, the principal ones are the White
Horse, the King’s Arms, the King’s Head, and the Red Lion. About a mile
eastward of Holywell, situated in a beautiful meadow, are the ruins of
Basingwerk Abbey, formerly a building of considerable importance. It is
surrounded by groves of tall trees, and commands a fine view of the
Cheshire shore. The next place on the Chester line of railway, to which
the traveller should direct his attention, is
FLINT,
At which place his historical recollections will be awakened by the
ancient castle, which is situated upon a rock in the marsh at the bottom
of the town.
The castle is a square building, with a large round tower at three of the
corners, and a fourth a little disjoined from the others, and much larger
than the rest. This is called the double tower. It was formerly joined
to the castle by a drawbridge, and is of great thickness. Here the
unfortunate Edward the Second received from exile his imperious favourite
Piers Gaveston, and here it was that the equally unfortunate Richard the
Second was betrayed by the Earl of Northumberland into the power of
Bolingbroke. Northumberland had met Richard at Conwy, to which place he
had retired after his return from Ireland, and they were journeying
together when, amid the recesses of the mountains, near Penmaen Rhôs, the
king descried a large body of soldiers with the Percy banners. The
unhappy monarch attempted to escape, but Northumberland seizing the
bridle of his horse, compelled him to proceed towards Rhuddlan Castle,
where they dined, and in the evening conducted him to Flint. Upon the
following morning Richard was astonished by the appearance of a numerous
army, commanded by Bolingbroke, in full march along the sands, which
speedily surrounded the castle. Richard descended from the keep to meet
his rival, who fell upon his knees, and for a short time assumed a
respectful appearance, but he soon discarded the mask, and “with a high
sharp voice,” says Stowe, “badde bring forth the king’s horses; and then
two little naggs, not worth fortie franks, were brought forthe. The king
was set on the one, and the Earl of Salisbury on the other, and thus the
duke brought them from Flint to Chester.”
HAWARDEN
Is six miles from Flint, and lying two miles on the right of the Queen’s
Ferry Station; it is a neat and comfortable town, consisting of one
street of about half a mile in length, and wears a cheerful aspect. The
Glynne Arms will receive the visitor, and afford him every attention and
comfort he can possibly desire. Hawarden Park is one of the most
picturesque and beautiful domains in the principality. Its lofty trees
and velvet grass, its swelling knolls and solitary glens, cannot fail to
awaken the most pleasing emotions in the breast of the tourist, while the
ivy-clad ruins of the ancient castle give a solemnity and grandeur to the
scene indescribably interesting. In the year 1280 a general insurrection
took place among the Welsh, under their prince, Llewelyn, and his brother
David, for the recovery of their liberties and ancient form of
government. It was commenced by David, on the 22nd of March, Palm
Sunday, in a stormy night, which favoured his design so well, that he
surprised this castle, put the garrison to the sword, and took Roger De
Clifford, the Justiciary of Chester, prisoner. After the death of
Llewelyn, and the subjugation of Wales, he suffered for this in a most
exemplary manner, being condemned to four species of punishment, viz., to
be drawn by a horse to the place of execution as a traitor to the king
who had made him a knight; to be hanged for murdering Fulk Trigald, and
other knights, in this fortress; for his sacrilege in committing those
murders on Palm Sunday, his bowels were to be burnt, and finally his body
was to be quartered and hung in different parts of the kingdom, because
he had in different parts conspired the death of the king. In 1495 this
castle belonged to Margaret, Countess of Richmond, the mother of Henry
the Seventh, and that monarch honoured it with his presence for some
time, in order that he might here enjoy the pleasures of the chase.
During the civil wars it suffered the usual vicissitudes of fortune. It
was besieged in 1643 by the King’s troops, when it was garrisoned by one
hundred and twenty men of Sir Thomas Myddelton’s regiment.
The remains of the castle consist of a fine circular tower, or keep,
situated upon the summit of a mount, a few walls, and the foundations of
some rooms. On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses,
and from its extensive plan and broad foundations it has the appearance
of having been erected at different periods. The modern mansion of
Hawarden Park belongs to Sir S. R. Glynne, Baronet, a member of
parliament, and lord-lieutenant of Flintshire. It is a stately
structure, with antique-looking windows and turrets, and commands a view
of the city of Chester and the entire course of the silvery Dee from that
station to the Irish Channel. Leaving this most interesting and lovely
place, and casting many a lingering look behind, I once more reached the
railway station, and after a short ride of seven miles, arrived at the
far-famed city of
CHESTER.
This city still bears marks of its Roman origin. The laying out of the
streets is Roman; the two principal thoroughfares crossing at right
angles in the centre of the city. Its fortifications are reasonably
supposed to be on a Roman basis. Remains of Roman masonry have been
discovered, and the usual vestiges of the Romans have, at different
times, been turned up—such as coins, fibulæ, inscribed tiles, stones, and
altars. In 1653 a votive altar to Jupiter was dug up, which had been
raised by an officer of the twentieth legion, called the Victorious. In
fact, the city was named in honour of this legion, Legecestria; and after
the Romans ceased to occupy it, the Britons called it Caer Lleon vawr ar
Ddyvrdwy: or, “the camp of the great Legion on the Dee.” In the time of
the Romans Chester was the termination of the celebrated Watling Street,
the great military road which extended from Dover across the island.
It was in this city that the Welsh, in the year 1300, acknowledged the
sovereignty of the English, the homage of the freeholders being received
by the infant Prince of Wales, afterwards Edward the Second. In the year
1506, Chester was afflicted with that remarkable disease the sweating
sickness, which carried off ninety-one householders in three days; and a
few years afterwards made such ravages that the streets of the city were
overgrown with grass.
In 1558, a circumstance occurred in Chester which was of the greatest
importance to the Protestants of those days. Dr. Henry Cole, Dean of St.
Paul’s, is said to have been entrusted with the commission issued by Mary
to empower the Lord Deputy of Ireland to prosecute those who refused to
observe the ceremonies of the Roman Catholic religion. The Doctor, on
his way to Ireland, stopped at Chester, and having put up at the Blue
Posts Inn, in Bridge Street, was visited by the Mayor, to whom he
communicated the business in which he was engaged: opening his cloak bag,
he took out a leathern box, observing, with exultation, “he had that
within it, which would lash the heretics of Ireland.” The hostess, Mrs.
Elizabeth Mottershead, overheard this by accident, and, having a brother
in Ireland, who was a Protestant, she became alarmed for his safety, and
took the opportunity, while the Doctor was attending the Mayor down
stairs, to open the box, take out the commission, and leave in its place
a pack of cards, with the knave of clubs uppermost. The Dean arrived in
Ireland on the 7th of December, 1558. Being introduced to the
Lord-Deputy Fitzwalter and the Privy Council, he explained the nature of
his embassy at greater length, and then presented the box, containing, as
he thought, the commission. His Lordship took it, and, having opened it,
beheld, with considerable surprise, the pack of cards with the knave on
the top. The Doctor was thunderstruck; and, in much confusion, said that
he certainly had a commission, and that some artful person must have made
the exchange. “Then,” said his Lordship, “you have nothing to do but to
return to London, and get it renewed: meanwhile we will shuffle the
cards.” The Doctor was obliged to follow this unwelcome advice, but
before he could reach Ireland a second time the Queen died, and her
sanguinary commission became useless. The woman, whose presence of mind
and dexterity had thus providentially interposed, was rewarded by
Elizabeth with a pension of forty pounds a year.
During the civil war in the reign of Charles the First, Chester stood
several sieges, which lasted about three years. The inhabitants, who had
sided with the king, endured great privations, but at last, when the
siege was converted into a blockade, they surrendered on honourable terms
to the parliamentary army. The city is situated on a dry rock above the
stream of the Dee, which flows round it on two sides. The neighbouring
district is a rich but level plain, presenting, however, some interesting
views from the ancient walls of the town, which form one among the many
remarkable features of Chester. These walls, which are now used as a
healthful and favourite promenade, are especially interesting, as being
the only perfect military work of the kind remaining in England, and the
circuit of them is somewhat more than a mile and three quarters. They
command many interesting prospects, and amongst them may be mentioned the
views towards the forest hills, from the eastern point, towards North
Wales and the Dee from the opposite side, and a fine view of the bridge
and the river, with the surrounding country, from the south-east angle.
At the sides of the walls are the remains of several ancient towers, and
at the north-east angle is one which bears the name of the Phœnix Tower,
remarkable from the circumstance of Charles the First having witnessed a
part of the battle of Rowton Heath, from its leads, in 1645.
The four principal gates of the city are the terminations of the four
principal streets, named respectively Eastgate Street, Northgate Street,
Bridge Street, and Foregate Street. These four streets, as described by
Pennant, are excavated and sunk many feet beneath the surface. The
carriages are driven far below the level of the kitchens, on a line with
ranges of shops, over which, on each side of the streets, passengers may
walk from end to end, secure from wet or heat, in galleries, (or _rows_,
as they are called,) purloined from the first floor of each house, open
in front, and balustraded. The back courts of all these houses are level
with the rows, but to go into any of these four streets it is necessary
to descend a flight of several steps: the rows certainly form the most
remarkable peculiarity of Chester, and the opinion of Mr. Ormerod is that
they were first erected as galleries from which the citizens might defend
themselves against those sudden inroads of armed cavalry, to which they
were so much exposed in ancient times, in consequence of their position
on the frontier of the English and Welsh.
The most remarkable feature of Chester is its Cathedral, which was
founded within the site of the Benedictine Abbey of St. Werburgh. It is
a spacious irregular building, composed of the red sandstone of the
country, and was built, or rather rebuilt, during the reigns of Henry the
Sixth, Seventh, and Eighth. In the cloisters, and buildings adjacent,
occur some interesting specimens of Norman architecture, and the early
decorations of the pointed style. The western front, and some other
detached parts, exhibit equally beautiful specimens of the enriched
Gothic, and the space occupied by the entire range of the conventual
buildings furnishes a magnificent idea of the grandeur of the
establishment.
The old Norman castle was removed in 1790, to make room for the modern
castle, which is, indeed, a noble structure, and contains the county
courts, the gaol, the barracks, and the armoury. The citizens of Chester
were formerly as celebrated as those of Coventry for their dramatic
performances, founded chiefly on scripture history. They are attributed
to one Randall, a monk of Chester Abbey, and are said to have been first
performed between 1268 and 1273.
* * * * *
My task is done, and I must now quit this lovely land—never perhaps to
see it more. But let me hope the sketches I have given of its various
charms will induce others to take the path which I have pursued with so
much pleasure. It leads through the most interesting portion of the
country. For the artist, there is an inexhaustible store of beauty. The
geologist and mineralogist will find the lore they thirst for, in almost
every hill and valley, through which they pass. The smoke-dried citizen
may have the London _blacks_ blown from his garments by the healthful
mountain breeze, and drink huge draughts of the pure air until he feels
intoxicated with pleasure, while he is enabled to supply himself cheaply
with a valuable stock of delightful recollections that will enable him,
at any time, to raise a visionary paradise around him—to banish painful
thoughts; for, in fine, pain must give place to pleasure, gloom to
sunshine, and sickness to invigorating health, in the enchanting
principality of NORTH WALES.
LIST OF FLIES, USED IN NORTH WALES.
FEBRUARY.
1. Red Fly.—Middle of February, until the middle of October. Fine days.
2. Dark Dun.—Middle of February, and continues through the Season. Fine
days.
MARCH.
3. Blue Dun.—Beginning of March to the end of April. Gloomy and wet
days, from 10 to 3.
4. March Brown.—Middle of March, to the end of April. Dark gloomy days,
from 11 to 2.
5. Light Dun.—Beginning of March, and continues through the season.
Gloomy days.
6. Oak, or Down-head Fly.—Middle of March and continues through the
season. Gloomy and wet days.
7. Hofland’s Fancy.—Woodcock’s Wing—brown cinnamon body, red legs, and
two fibres of red hackle for tail. Will do for Tal y Llyn, and if
dressed larger, for Llyn Ogwen.
APRIL.
8. Greentail.—Beginning of April for about ten days. Warm bright
mornings from 6 to 11.
9. Gravel Fly.—Latter end of April to end of May. Fine days.
10. Small Stone Fly.—Middle of April to the end of May. All weathers,
and at any time of the day. Does best in smaller brooks, and in rapid
streams in rivers.
MAY.
11. Marlow Buzz, or Coch y Bonddu.—All the season, but particularly in
May, June, and July. Gloomy and wet days.
12. May Fly.—All May and June. Gloomy and wet days.
13. Horse Flesh, or the Cabin Fly.—May, June, and July. All weathers.
14. Brook Fly.—The first of May to the latter end of September. Hot
weather.
15. Iron Blue.—About the 7th of May to the middle of June. Will never
kill except the wind is from the North or East.
16. Sand Fly.—About the middle of May, and continues for three months,
all weathers, after 7 at night.
17. Green Drake.—About the 20th of May for 9 or 10 days, from 10 in the
morning until dusk.
18. Gray Drake.—From the 27th or 28th of May, to middle of June, from 6
or 7 in the evening to sunset.
19. Orl Fly.—Latter end of May to the latter end of June, from 4 o’Clock
in the morning until 7 in the evening. Hot weather.
JUNE AND JULY.
20. Red Spinner.—Middle of June to the latter end of August. In the
evenings of very hot days, from seven o’clock, as long as you can see.
21. Hazle Fly.—About the latter end of June for nine or ten days. Wet
and gloomy weather.
AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER.
22. Red Ant.—About the 10th or 12th of August, to the latter end of
September. Warm days, from noon until four.
23. Black Ant.—Same in every respect as Red Ant.
24. Little Pale Blue.—Middle of August to the latter end of September,
from 10 in the morning till 3 in the afternoon. Rough cold days.
INDEX.
Aber Glas Lyn, 88.
Ardudwy, Pass of, 65, 71.
Arran Vowddwy, 50.
Arrenig Vawr, 50.
Bala, 51.
Bangor, 128, 129.
Basingwerk Abbey, 139.
Bardsey Island, Bards of, 64.
Barmouth, 60, 62.
Battlefield, 21.
Berwyn Mountains, 29.
Beddgelert, 89.
Bettws y Coed, 106.
Brynkinalt, 25.
Britannia Tubular Bridge, 132.
Butler, Lady, and Miss Ponsonby, 35.
Bwlch Tyddiad, 69.
Cader Idris, 54, 55, 60, 71.
Carnarvon, 133, 134.
Carreg y Gwalch, 107.
Capel Curig, 100.
Car, Jaunting, in Wales, 52.
Cardigan Bay, Scenery and Views of, 78, 79.
Carreg y Saeth, 68.
Cave of Shenkin, 107.
Ceiriog, River of, 24.
„ Vale of the, 29.
Chester, 143–147.
Chirk, 24, 26, 29.
Closs, John, Story of, and Monument, 99.
Conwy, 118, 119–125.
Corwen, 43.
Constantinus, 135.
Constantine, 135.
Cors y gedol Hall, 63.
Cricaeth Castle and Promontory, 78.
Crogen Castle, 28.
Cwm Bychan, Llyn y, 68.
Cwmorddin Pool, 83.
Cynvael Falls, 83.
Dee, Vale of the, 32, 39, 43.
„ Aqueduct and Viaduct, 32.
Dinas Brân, Castell, 39.
Dinas Gortin, 65.
Dinas Gonwy, 126.
Dinas Llyn, 92.
Dolbadarn Castle, 97.
Dolgelley, Vale of, 53–55.
„ Town of, 56.
Dolwyddelan Castle, 101.
Drws y Nant, 53.
Dwyryd, Valley of the River, 82.
Edeyrnion, Vale of, 47.
Edward First, his Wars in Wales, and Strongholds built by, 75, 78, 119,
134.
Einion, Gallantry of Davydd ab Ivan ab, 76.
— Howel ab, 40.
Eliseg, Pillar of, 43.
Festiniog, 83.
Flies used in North Wales, 149.
Flint Castle, 139.
Gelert, Llewelyn’s Hound, 90.
Geirionydd Llyn, Antiquities of, 116.
Glan y Llyn, 53.
Gloddaeth, the Mansion of the Hon. Lloyd Mostyn, 126.
Glossary, Welsh, ix.
Glyndwr, Owen, 43, 44, 56, 59, 75.
Gôch, Owen, his imprisonment, 97.
Gôch, Gruffydd, Tomb of, 114.
Gwydir Castle, 108.
„ Chapel, 111.
Gwynant Llyn, 92.
Gwynedd, Owen, 29, 103.
Hawarden, 141.
Harlech Castle, 74, 75.
Herbert, Sir Richard, 76.
Howel, Coetmore, 114.
Holywell, 136.
Idwal, Llyn, and Cleft of Idwal Du, 103.
Iorwerth, Llewelyn ab, Tomb of, 114.
Kymmer Abbey, 58.
Llan Tegai Parish, 104.
Llandudno, 126.
Llangollen Road Station, 22.
Llanberis Pass, 96.
„ Church, 98.
Llandrillo, Village of, 46.
Llangollen, Vale and Town of, 34, 34.
Llanrwst, 110.
Llewelyn, Prince of Wales, 97, 141.
Lloyd, Griffith, the Rector of Llanrwst, 115.
Llugwy River, 105.
Llyanyrch, Llyn, 83.
Madoc, Port, 84.
Mannod Llyn, 83.
Maentwrog Village, 80.
Mawddach River, 62.
Menai Bridge, 130.
Moel Siabod, 101.
Mortimer, Roger, Earl of Wigmore, 28.
Morwynion, Llyn, 65.
Nannau Park, 59.
Offa’s Dyke, 29.
Ogwen Llyn, and Falls of Benclog, 101, 102.
Orme’s Head, the Great, 126.
Padarn Llyn, 97.
Peris Llyn, 97.
Pedestrians, Fashionable in Wales, 23.
Penrhyn Castle, 129.
Pembroke, William Herbert, Earl of, 76.
Pistyll y Cain, and Falls of the River Mawddach, 58.
Pistyll Rhaiadr, 27.
Pont y Pair, Bridge of the Caldron, 107.
Pwllheli, 64.
Rhaiadr y Wennol, 103.
Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr, 116.
Rhaiadr Du, 58.
Rhys Gôch o’r Eryri, 89.
Rhyl, 136.
Richard the Second, 121, 140.
Scott, Sir Walter, Note to his “Marmion,” 60.
Segontium, 135.
Shrewsbury, 21.
Snowdon and Snowdonia, 92, 94.
Taliesin, the Bard’s Abode, 116.
Tan y Bwlch, 82.
Tegid, Llyn, 50.
Tevi, River, 102.
Tommen y Bala, 51.
Traeth Mawr, and Traeth Bâch, Arms of the Sea, 78.
Trevriew, Village of, 117.
Tremadoc, the Town of, 86.
Trivaen, the Crags of, 103.
Trout Fishing in Wales, 19, 58, 83, 95, 149.
Tudor Trevor, Family of, 25, 40.
Tudno, St., Cradle of, 127.
Valle Crucis Abbey, 40.
Vortigern’s Hill, 91.
Wellington, Duke of, 25.
Winefred’s Well & Legend, 137.
Wnion, the, River of, 54.
Wynne, Account of the family, 111.
* * * * *
JOHN MORGAN; PRINTER, OSWESTRY.
MAP OF NORTH WALES.
[The book contains a large folding map of North Wales, which the
transcriber could not scan as a single piece. It’s produced as four
parts below.—DP.]
NORTH WEST NORTH WALES.
[Picture: Map of North Wales, North-West]
NORTH EAST NORTH WALES.
[Picture: Map of North Wales, North-West]
SOUTH WEST NORTH WALES.
[Picture: Map of North Wales, South-West]
SOUTH EAST NORTH WALES.
[Picture: Map of North Wales, South-East]