CHAPTER IX.

Preparing Food.

The knowledge of food values and their relation to the body will be of

little use for practical purposes unless combined with the knowledge

of how the various foods should be prepared, either by cooking or in

whatever form circumstances and the material may require. The first

requisite for cooking purposes is heat; this necessitates the use of

fuel. The fuels chiefly used for household purposes are wood, coal,

kerosene oil and gas. Soft woods, such as pine or birch, are best for

kindling and for a quick fire. Hard woods, oak, ash, etc., burn more

slowly, retain the heat longer, and are better adapted for cooking

purposes.

COAL.

Coal (anthracite) is about 95 per cent. carbon. It kindles slowly,

gives a steady heat, and burns for a longer time without attention

than wood. Stoves for burning oil and gas have become popular, and are

very convenient and satisfactory for cooking purposes.

OIL.

Oil is considered to be the cheapest fuel.

GAS.

Gas is a very satisfactory fuel for cooking purposes, but can only be

used in certain localities.

Making and Care of a Fire.

CARE OF A FIRE.

Great care should be exercised in the selection of a stove or range.

The plainer the range the easier it will be to keep it clean. There

should be plenty of dampers that can be used to hasten the fire or to

check it. Learn thoroughly the management of the range before

beginning to cook. In lighting a fire, remove the covers, brush the

soot from the top of the oven into the fire-box; clean out the grate

(saving all the unburned coal, and cinders). Put in shavings or paper,

then kindling arranged crosswise, allowing plenty of air space between

the pieces, a little hard wood and a single layer of coal. Put on the

covers, open the direct draft and oven damper, then light the paper.

When the wood is thoroughly kindled and the first layer of coal

heated, fill the fire-box with coal even with the top of the oven.

When the blue flame becomes white, close the oven damper, and when the

coal is burning freely, shut the direct draft. When coal becomes

bright red all through it has lost most of its heat. A great deal of

coal is wasted by filling the fire-box too full and leaving the drafts

open till the coal is red. To keep a steady fire it is better to add a

little coal often rather than to add a large quantity and allow it to

burn out. Never allow dust or cinders to accumulate around a range,

either inside or out. Learn to open and shut the oven door quietly and

quickly. Study the amount of fire required to heat the oven to the

desired temperature. Learn which is the hotter or cooler side of the

oven, and move the article which is being baked as required, being

very careful to move it gently.

Measurements.

Accurate measurement is necessary to insure success in cooking. As

there is such a diversity of opinion as to what constitutes a heaping

spoonful, all the measurements given in this book will be by level

spoonfuls. A cupful is all the cup will hold without running over, and

the cup is one holding 1/2 pint.

The following table may be used where scales are not convenient:--

4 cups of flour = 1 pound or 1 quart.

2 cups of solid butter = 1 "

1/2 cup butter = 1/4 "

2 cups granulated sugar = 1 "

2-1/2 cups powdered sugar = 1 "

3 cups meal = 1 "

1 pint of milk or water = 1 "

1 pint chopped meat, packed solidly = 1 "

9 large eggs, 10 medium eggs = 1 "

2 level tablespoonfuls butter = 1 ounce.

4 " " " = 2 ounces or 1/4 cup.

Butter the size of an egg = 2 " " "

2 level tablespoonfuls sugar = 1 "

4 " " flour = 1 "

4 " " coffee = 1 "

4 " " powdered sugar = 1 "

Table of Abbreviations.

Saltspoon ssp.

Tablespoon tbsp.

Pint pt.

Gallon gal.

Teaspoon tsp.

Cupful cf.

Quart qt.

Peck pk.

A speck (spk.) is what you can put on a quarter inch square surface.

Time-table for Cooking.

BAKING BREAD, CAKES AND PUDDINGS.

Loaf bread 40 to 60 m.

Graham gems 25 to 30 m.

Sponge cake 45 to 60 m.

Cookies 10 to 15 m.

Rice and tapioca 1 hr.

Custards 15 to 20 m.

Pastry (thin puff) 10 to 15 m.

Pie crust 25 to 30 m.

Baked beans 6 to 8 hrs.

Scalloped dishes 15 to 20 m.

Rolls, biscuit 10 to 20 m.

Gingerbread 25 to 30 m.

Fruit cake 2 to 3 hrs.

Bread pudding 1 hr.

Indian pudding 2 to 3 hrs.

Steamed pudding 1 to 3 hrs.

Pastry (thick) 30 to 50 m.

Potatoes 30 to 45 m.

Braised meat 3 to 4 hrs.

BAKING MEATS.

Beef, sirloin, rare, per lb. 8 to 10 m.

Beef, well done, per lb. 12 to 15 m.

Beef, rolled rib or rump, per lb. 12 to 15 m.

Beef, fillet, per lb. 20 to 30 m.

Mutton, rare, per lb. 10 m.

Mutton, well done, per lb. 15 m.

Lamb, well done, per lb. 15 m.

Veal, well done, per lb. 20 m.

Pork, well done, per lb. 30 m.

Turkey, 10 lbs. weight 2-1/2 hrs.

Chicken, 3 to 4 lbs. weight 1 to 1-1/2 hr.

Goose, 8 lbs. 2 hrs.

Tame duck 1 to 1-1/2 hr.

Game 40 to 60 m.

Grouse 30 to 40 m.

Small birds 20 to 25 m.

Venison, per lb. 15 m.

Fish, 6 to 8 lbs. 1 hr.

Fish, small 30 to 40 m.

VEGETABLES (BOILING).

Rice, green corn, peas, tomatoes, asparagus

(hard boiled eggs) 20 to 25 m.

Potatoes, macaroni, squash, celery, spinach 25 to 30 m.

Young beets, carrots, turnips, onions, parsnips,

cauliflower 30 to 45 m.

Young cabbage, string beans, shell beans, oyster plant 45 to 60 m.

Winter vegetables, oatmeal, hominy and wheat 1 to 2 hrs.

FRYING (DEEP).

Smelts, croquettes, fish balls 1 to 2 m.

Muffins, fritters, doughnuts 4 to 6 m.

Fish, breaded chops 5 to 7 m.

BROILING.

Steak, 1 inch thick 6 to 8 m.

Steak, 1-1/2 inch thick 8 to 10 m.

Fish, small 6 to 8 m.

Fish, thick 12 to 15 m.

Chops 8 to 10 m.

Chicken 20 m.

Table of Proportions.

1 qt. of liquid to 3 qts. of flour for bread.

1 qt. of liquid to 2 qts. of flour for muffins.

1 qt. of liquid to 1 qt. of flour for batters.

1 cup of yeast (1 yeast cake) to 1 qt. of liquid.

1 tsp. of soda (level), 3 of cream tartar to 1 qt. of flour.

1 tsp. of soda to 1 pt. of sour milk.

1 tsp. of soda to 1 cup of molasses.

4 tsps. of baking powder to 1 qt. of flour.

1 tsp. of salt to 1 qt. of soup stock.

1 ssp. of salt to 1 loaf of cake.

1 tbsp. of each vegetable, chopped, to 1 qt. of stock.

1-1/2 tbsp. of flour to 1 qt. of stock for thickening soup.

1 tbsp. of flour to 1 pt. of stock for sauces.

1 tsp. of salt to 1 pt. of stock for sauces.

4 tbsps. (level) cornstarch to 1 pt. of milk (to mould).

1 tsp. of salt to 2 qts. of flour for biscuits, etc.

Methods for Flour Mixtures.

STIRRING.

Stirring is simply blending two or more materials by moving the spoon

round and round until smooth and of the proper consistency.

BEATING.

Beating is bringing the spoon up through the mixture with a quick

movement so as to entangle as much air as possible.

CUTTING OR FOLDING.

Cutting or folding is adding the beaten white of egg to a mixture

without breaking the air bubbles, by lifting and turning the mixture

over and over as in folding. Do not stir or beat.

* * * * *

RECIPES.

* * * * *

BATTERS, BISCUITS AND BREAD.

POPOVERS.

2 cups of flour.

3 eggs.

2 cups of milk.

1/2 tsp. salt.

Beat the eggs (without separating) until very light, then add the milk

and salt; pour this mixture on the flour (slowly), beating all the

while. Beat until smooth and light, about five minutes. Grease gem

pans or small cups, and bake in a moderately hot oven about

thirty-five minutes. They should increase to four times their original

size. (This recipe may be divided for class work.)

PANCAKES.

1 pint of flour.

1 tbsp. of melted butter.

1 pint of milk.

2 eggs.

2 tsps. baking powder.

1/2 tsp. salt.

Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; add the yolks to the

milk, then the melted butter; salt. Sift the baking powder and flour

together, add slowly to the liquid, stir until smooth. Lastly, add the

whites of the eggs. These may be cooked in waffle irons or on a

griddle.

PANCAKES WITH BUTTERMILK.

1 pint of buttermilk.

Flour to make a medium batter.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1/2 tsp. soda.

Crush the soda, add it and the salt to the buttermilk, add the flour

gradually, beat until the batter is smooth, and bake on a hot griddle.

An egg may be added.

CORNMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.

1 pint of Indian meal.

1 cup of flour.

1 tsp. salt.

3 eggs.

4 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

1 pint of milk.

Put the meal into a bowl, and pour over it just enough boiling water

to scald it; do not make it soft; let stand until cool. Then add the

milk; beat the eggs until very light, add them to the batter, add the

flour and salt in which the baking powder has been sifted. Mix well,

beat vigorously for a minute or two, and bake on a hot griddle.

BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES.

1 pt. of milk.

1/2 tsp. of salt.

1/2 tsp. of soda and 1 tsp. cream tartar.

3 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

1/2 pt. stale bread crumbs.

2 eggs.

Flour to make a thin batter.

Soak the bread in the milk for one hour, then beat it smooth. Beat the

eggs separately till very light, add first the yolks, then the flour

and salt and baking powder. Beat again, add the whites, and bake

quickly on a hot griddle.

BUCKWHEAT CAKES.

1 pt. boiling water.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1/2 cup white flour.

1 ssp. soda.

1/2 cup corn or Graham meal.

1/4 yeast cake.

1 cup buckwheat flour.

Pour the boiling water on the corn or Graham meal, add the salt, and

when lukewarm add the flour, beat until smooth, then add the yeast.

Let it rise over night. In the morning add the soda just before baking

(milk may be used instead of water). A tablespoonful of molasses is

sometimes added in order to make the cakes a darker brown.

FRITTERS.

Beat two eggs together until light, add to them 1 cup of milk, 1/2

tsp. salt and sufficient flour to make a batter that will drop from

the spoon. Beat until smooth. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat; add 3

(l.) tsps. of baking powder to the batter, mix thoroughly and drop by

spoonfuls into the hot fat. When brown on one side turn and brown on

the other; take out with a skimmer and serve very hot. Do not pierce

with a fork as it allows the steam to escape and makes the fritter

heavy.

GEMS--WHOLE WHEAT OR GRAHAM GEMS.

2 cups of whole wheat flour.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 tbsp. sugar.

2 eggs, beaten separately.

1 cup milk.

1 cup water.

Mix flour, salt and sugar. Beat the eggs until light, add the milk and

water, stir this into the dry mixture. Bake in hot gem pans for 30

minutes.

CORN MUFFINS.

1 cup cornmeal.

1 cup flour.

1-1/4 cups milk.

2 tbsps. butter.

2 tbsps. sugar.

1/2 tsp. salt.

2-1/2 tsps. baking powder.

1 egg.

Mix all the dry ingredients together. Melt the butter in a hot cup.

Beat the egg till light. Add the milk to it and turn this mixture into

the bowl containing the dry ingredients. Add the melted butter and

beat vigorously and quickly. Pour into buttered muffin or gem pans,

and bake for one-half hour in a moderate oven.

QUICK MUFFINS OR GEMS.

1 pt. of milk.

1 oz. butter.

3 cups of flour.

4 tsps. baking powder.

1 tsp. salt.

3 eggs.

Beat the eggs separately till light, add the yolks to the milk, then

the flour, which must be more or less, according to the quality. The

batter must be thin and pour from the spoon. Now add the melted butter

and salt; give the whole a vigorous beating. Now add the baking powder

and the well beaten whites, stir till thoroughly mixed. Bake in muffin

rings in a quick oven or on the griddle.

TEA BISCUIT.

1 pt. of flour.

1 cup milk.

2-1/2 tsps. baking powder.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 tbsp. lard or butter.

1/2 tsp. sugar.

Mix thoroughly in a sieve the flour, sugar, salt and baking powder,

and rub through the sieve. Rub the butter or lard into this mixture.

Now add the milk, stirring quickly with a strong spoon. Sprinkle the

board with flour, turn out the dough upon it. Roll to the thickness of

about 1/2 inch, cut with a small cutter. Bake in a quick oven. Do not

crowd the biscuit in the pan. They should bake from 10 to 15 minutes.

(All biscuit doughs should be mixed as soft as it is possible to

handle. Sour milk may be used in this recipe by substituting soda for

the baking powder.)

HOT CORN BREAD.

1 qt. of cornmeal.

1 tsp. of salt.

1 pt. sour milk or buttermilk.

1 oz. of butter.

2 eggs.

1 tsp. of soda.

Put the cornmeal in a large bowl and pour over it just enough boiling

water to scald it through. Let it stand until cold, then add the eggs

well beaten, the milk or buttermilk, salt, and butter (melted); beat

thoroughly. Dissolve the soda in two tbsps. of boiling water, stir

into the mixture, turn quickly into a greased square, shallow pan,

put into a hot oven and bake 40 minutes.

SHORTCAKES.

(_Suitable for strawberries or any sweetened fruit._)

1 pint flour.

1 cup sweet or sour milk.

1/4 cup butter.

2-1/2 tsps. baking powder, or 1/2 tsp. soda and 1 tsp. cream tartar.

1/2 tsp. salt.

Mix the salt, soda, cream tartar or baking powder with the flour,

sift; rub in the butter until fine like meal. Add the liquid

gradually, mixing with a knife, and use just enough to make it of a

light spongy consistency. Turn the dough out on a well floured board,

pat lightly into a flat cake and roll gently till half inch thick.

Bake either in a spider or pie plate in the oven; split, butter, and

spread with the fruit.

DOUGHNUTS.

1 egg

1 tbsp. melted butter.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 tsp. cream tartar.

Flour enough to make into a soft dough.

1/2 cup sugar.

1 cup milk.

1/2 tsp. soda.

1 ssp. cinnamon.

Mix all the dry ingredients, beat the egg until light, add to this the

milk, sugar and melted butter. Pour into the flour, mixing carefully

into a soft dough. Have the board well floured. Roll only a large

spoonful at a time. Cut into the desired shape and drop into hot fat.

The fat should be hot enough for the dough to rise to the top

instantly.

* * * * *

BREAD.

As bread is one of the most important articles of the daily diet, it

naturally follows that special attention should be given to a subject

upon which the health of the family, to a great extent, depends. A

knowledge of the chemical changes and their effect (see Chap. VII)

must be understood before proficiency in bread-making can be attained.

The first element to consider is the _yeast_, and the generating of

carbonic acid gas, so as to have the bread light, tender, and porous.

Yeast is a plant or vegetable growth produced from grain which has

commenced to bud or sprout, and which forms the substance called

diastase. This substance has the power to convert starch into sugar.

(See Chap. VII for effect of yeast upon flour.)

The temperature at which fermentation takes place, and when to check

it, are important features of bread-making.

The liquid (milk or water) should be tepid when mixed, as too great

heat destroys the growth of the yeast. The dough should rise in a

temperature of 75°. After fermentation has become active the

temperature may be gradually lowered--as in setting bread over

night--without injury.

Avoid a cold draft or sudden change of temperature, as it checks

fermentation and affects the flavor.

Never allow bread to rise until it "settles," or runs over the side of

the bowl. The usual rule is to let it rise until it is double in bulk,

both in the bowl and after it is put into the pans. If it is not

convenient to bake the bread when ready, it may be kneaded again and

kept in a cool place, to prevent souring. Bread should be mixed in a

stone or granite bowl.

The only necessary ingredients for bread are water, flour, salt, and

yeast. Sugar may be added to restore the natural sweetness of the

flour which has been lost during fermentation, but it is not

necessary. If milk is used, and the bread well kneaded, no other

shortening is required; but with water, the addition of a little

butter or dripping makes the bread more tender, therefore it is more

easily penetrated by the digestive fluids. Tough, leathery bread is

not easily digested, no matter how light it may be. As already stated,

by the action of heat the ferment is killed, the starch-grains

ruptured, the gas carried off, and the crust formed. In order that

bread may be thoroughly cooked, and plenty of crust formed, each loaf

should be baked in a pan about 4 inches deep, 4 to 6 inches wide, and

from 8 to 12 inches long. Smaller loaves are even more desirable. It

is very difficult to bake a large loaf so as to insure the escape of

all the carbonic acid gas, and to cook the starch sufficiently without

injuring the crust, besides entailing an unnecessary waste of fuel.

The custom of baking several loaves together in one large pan is

contrary to all scientific rules of bread-making. The oven should be

hot enough to brown a spoonful of flour in five minutes, for bread.

The dough should rise during the first fifteen minutes, then begin to

brown; keep the heat steady for the next fifteen or twenty minutes,

then decrease it. If the oven is too hot a hard crust will form and

prevent the dough from rising, which will not only cause the bread to

be heavy, but will prevent the gas from escaping. If, on the other

hand, the oven is not hot enough, the bread will go on rising until

it becomes sour. A loaf, the size already mentioned, should take from

fifty-five to sixty minutes to bake, and should give a hollow sound,

if tapped, when removed from the oven. Better take too long than not

long enough, as doughy bread is most objectionable and unwholesome. If

the crust is beginning to burn, cover the loaf with brown paper, and

reduce the heat, but have a brown crust, not a whity-brown, which is

usually hard and without flavor. Upon removing the loaves from the

pans, place them on a rack, where the air may circulate freely. Never

leave warm bread on a pine table, or where it will absorb odors.

BREAD MADE WITH WATER.

2 quarts flour.

1 tbsp. sugar.

1 pint lukewarm water.

1 tsp. salt.

1 tbsp. butter, dripping or lard.

1/2 cake compressed yeast, dissolved in 1/2 cup water.

(This recipe is for Manitoba flour. A little more fine flour would be

necessary.)

Sift the flour. Put the salt, sugar and butter into a large bowl, pour

on the warm water, stir until they are dissolved. Add the flour

gradually until it forms a thin batter, then add the yeast; beat

vigorously for at least five minutes. Add more flour until the dough

is stiff enough to knead. Turn out on the board and knead for half

hour. Cover and let rise until double its bulk. Form into separate

loaves, put into the pans, cover, and let rise again till double its

bulk. Bake in a hot oven about an hour. (Milk or half milk may be

substituted in this recipe.)

BREAD (WITH A SPONGE).

1 tbsp. butter.

1 tbsp. sugar.

1/2 cup yeast or 1/2 yeast cake.

1 tsp. salt.

1 pt. water.

About 2 qts. flour.

Put the butter, sugar and salt in the mixing bowl, add 1/4 cup boiling

water to dissolve them; then add enough lukewarm water to make a pint,

3 cups of flour, then the yeast (if the cake is used dissolve in 1/4

cup tepid water). Give it a vigorous beating, cover, and let it rise

over night. In the morning add flour to make it stiff enough to knead.

Knead for 1/2 hour. Cover closely, let it rise till it doubles its

bulk; shape into loaves; let it rise again in the pans; bake as

directed in previous recipe.

WHOLE WHEAT OR GRAHAM BREAD.

1 pt. milk, scalded and cooled.

1 tsp. salt.

2 cups white flour.

2 tbsps. sugar.

5 or 6 cups whole wheat flour.

1/2 yeast cake or 1/2 cup yeast.

Mix in the same order as given in previous recipes. Whole wheat flour

makes a softer dough, consequently does not require so much kneading,

otherwise it should be treated the same as other bread, allowing it a

little longer time for baking; if too moist, a cupful of white flour

may be added.

YEAST.

Steep 1/2 cup of loose hops in 1 quart of boiling water, in a granite

kettle, 5 minutes. Mix 1 cup of flour, 1/4 of a cup sugar and 1 tbsp.

salt. Strain the hop liquor and pour it boiling into the flour

mixture. Boil 1 minute, or till thick. When cooled add 1 cup of yeast.

Cover and set in a warm place until foamy, which will be in 4 or 5

hours. Pour into stone jars, which should be not more than half full,

and keep in a cool place. (Three boiled potatoes may be mashed

smoothly and added to this yeast if desired.)

* * * * *

SAUCES AND MILK SOUPS.

WHITE SAUCE.

(_For Vegetables, Eggs, etc._)

1 pt. milk.

4 (l.) tbsps. flour.

1/2 ssp. white pepper.

2 tbsps. butter.

1/2 tsp. salt.

Heat the milk over hot water. Put the butter in a granite saucepan and

stir till it melts, being careful not to brown. Add the dry flour, and

stir quickly till well mixed. Add the milk gradually, stirring

carefully (especially from the sides) until perfectly smooth. Let it

boil until it thickens, then add salt and pepper.

In using this sauce for creamed oysters, add 1/2 tsp. of celery salt,

a few grains of cayenne pepper, and a tsp. of lemon juice.

DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE.

1 pt. hot water or stock.

1/2 cup butter.

1/2 ssp. pepper.

4 (l.) tbsps. flour.

1/2 tsp. salt.

Put the butter in the saucepan; when melted add the dry flour, and mix

well. Add the hot water or stock a little at a time, and stir rapidly

till it thickens; when smooth add the salt and pepper. Be careful to

have all sauces free from lumps. (Hard boiled eggs may be added to

this sauce for baked or boiled fish. Two tbsps. of chopped parsley may

be added if parsley sauce is desired.)

BROWN SAUCE.

1 pt. hot stock.

2 tbsps. butter.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 tbsp. lemon juice.

2 tbsps. minced onions.

4 tbsps. flour.

1/2 ssp. pepper.

Caramel enough to color.

Mince the onion and fry it in the butter 5 minutes. Be careful not to

burn it. When the butter is browned add the dry flour, and stir well.

Add the hot stock a little at a time; stir rapidly until it thickens

and is perfectly smooth. Add the salt and pepper. Simmer 5 minutes,

and strain to remove the onion.

CARAMEL FOR COLORING SOUPS AND SAUCES.

Melt 1 cup of sugar with 1 tbsp. of water in a frying-pan. Stir until

it becomes of a dark brown color. Add 1 cup of boiling water, simmer

10 minutes, and bottle when cool. This coloring is useful for many

purposes, and is more wholesome than browned butter.

MOCK BISQUE SOUP.

1 pt. stewed tomatoes.

2 tbsps. flour.

1/2 tsp. soda.

1 tsp. salt.

1 pt. milk.

2 tbsps. butter.

1/4 tsp. pepper.

Reserve 1/2 cup of the milk, put the remainder on to cook in a

stew-pan. Mix the flour with the cold milk, and stir into the boiling

milk. Cook for 10 minutes, then add the salt, pepper and butter. Stir

the soda into the hot tomatoes and stir 1/2 minute, then rub through a

strainer. Add the strained tomatoes to the thickened milk, and serve

at once.

POTATO SOUP.

4 potatoes, medium size.

2 tbsps. minced celery.

2 tbsps. of flour.

1/4 tsp. of pepper.

1/2 tsp. minced parsley.

1-1/2 pints of milk.

4 tbsps. minced onions.

1 tsp. of salt.

1 tbsp. of butter.

Pare the potatoes, place on the fire in enough boiling water to cover,

and cook for 30 minutes. Reserve 1/2 cup milk, put the remainder in

the double boiler with the onion and celery and place on the fire. Mix

the cold milk with the flour and stir into the boiling milk. When the

potatoes are cooked pour off the water, mash them until fine and

light. Gradually beat into them the milk; now add salt, pepper and

butter, and rub the soup through a sieve. Return to the fire and add

the minced parsley; simmer for 5 minutes and serve immediately. (The

parsley may be omitted and celery salt substituted for the minced

celery.)

CELERY SOUP.

1 head celery.

1 pint milk.

1 tbsp. butter.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 pint water.

1 tbsp. chopped onion.

2 tbsps. flour.

1/2 ssp. pepper.

Wash and scrape the celery, cut into 1/2 inch pieces, put it into the

pint of boiling salted water and cook until very soft. Mash in the

water in which it was boiled. Cook the onion with the milk in a double

boiler 10 minutes and add it to the celery. Rub all through a strainer

and put on to boil again. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the

flour and cook until smooth, but not brown, then stir it into the

boiling soup. Add the salt and pepper; simmer 5 minutes and strain

into the tureen. Serve very hot.

* * * * *

EGGS.

While eggs are nutritious and valuable as food they should not be used

too freely, as they are a highly concentrated form of food. The

albumen (white) of egg is one of the most valuable tissue builders.

Much depends upon the manner in which they are cooked. Eggs fried in

fat or hard boiled are very indigestible. Do not use an egg until it

has been laid some hours, as the white does not become thick till then

and cannot be beaten stiff. Eggs should be kept in a cool dark place,

and handled carefully in order to avoid mixing the white and yolk,

which causes the egg to spoil quickly.

BOILED EGGS.

Have the water boiling in a saucepan. Put in the eggs and move to the

back of the stove where the water will keep hot, about 175 or 180 F.,

for from 8 to 10 minutes. If the back of the stove is too hot, move to

the hearth. The white should be of a soft, jelly-like consistency, the

yolks soft but not liquid. An egg to be cooked soft should never be

cooked in boiling water.

HARD BOILED EGGS.

Cook eggs for 20 minutes in water just below the boiling point. The

yolk of an egg cooked 10 minutes is tough and indigestible; 20 minutes

will make it dry and mealy, when it is more easily penetrated by the

gastric fluid.

POACHED EGGS.

Have a clean, shallow pan nearly full of salted and boiling water.

Remove the scum and let the water just simmer. Break each egg

carefully into a saucer and slip it gently into the water. Dip the

water over it with the end of the spoon, and when a film has formed

over the yolk and the white is like a soft jelly, take up with a

skimmer and place on a piece of neatly trimmed toast. This is the most

wholesome way of cooking eggs for serving with ham or bacon.

OMELET.

Beat the yolks of two eggs, add two tbsps. of milk, 1 ssp. of salt and

1/4 of a ssp. of pepper. Beat the whites till stiff and dry. Cut and

fold them into the yolks till just covered. Have a clean, smooth

omelet pan (or spider). When hot, rub well with a teaspoonful of

butter; see that the butter is all over the pan, turn in the omelet

and spread evenly on the pan. Cook until slightly browned underneath,

being careful not to let it burn; set in a hot oven until dry on top.

When dry throughout, run a knife round the edge, tip the pan to one

side, fold the omelet and turn out on a hot platter. This may be made

by beating the whites and yolks together for a plain omelet. A little

chopped parsley, a little fine grated onion, a tbsp. or two of chopped

ham, veal or chicken may be spread on the omelet before folding.

CUP CUSTARDS.

1 pt. of milk.

1/4 cup of sugar.

2 eggs.

1/2 ssp. grated nutmeg.

Beat the eggs until light, then add the sugar; beat again, add the

milk and nutmeg, stir until the sugar is dissolved. Pour into custard

cups, stand the cups in a pan of boiling water and then put the pan in

the oven. Bake until the custards are set, or until a knife may be

slipped into the centre without anything adhering to it. When done,

take them out of the water and stand away to cool. (This custard may

be poured into a baking dish and baked in a quick oven until firm in

the centre.)

BOILED CUSTARD.

1 pt. of milk.

2 tbsps. sugar.

2 eggs.

1/2 tsp. vanilla.

Put the milk on in the double boiler, beat the sugar and yolks of eggs

together until light, then stir them into the boiling milk; stir until

it begins to thicken, then take it from the fire; add the vanilla and

stand aside to cool. When cool, pour into a glass dish. Beat the

whites until stiff, add three tbsps. of powdered sugar gradually. Heap

them on a dinner plate and stand in the oven a moment until slightly

brown, then loosen from the plate, slip off gently on top of the

custard; serve very cold.

* * * * *

FRUIT.

If people would only realize the value of fruit in its natural state,

much of the time devoted to the preparation of pies, puddings, etc.,

would be saved. All uncooked fruit should be thoroughly ripe and

served fresh and cold. Sometimes fruit is more easily digested when

the woody fibre has been softened by cooking than when in its natural

state, therefore a few simple recipes for cooking fruit are given.

APPLESAUCE.

Pare, core and quarter 6 or 8 tart apples. Make a syrup with 1/2 cup

of sugar, 1/2 cup of water, and a little grated lemon peel. When

boiling, add the apples and cook carefully till they are just tender,

but not broken. Remove them carefully, boil the syrup down a little

and pour it over the apples. (For serving with roast goose, etc., cook

the apples in a little water, mash until smooth, add sugar to taste.)

CODDLED APPLES.

Pare tart apples of uniform size; remove the cores without breaking

the apples. Stand them in the bottom of a granite kettle, sprinkle

thickly with sugar, cover the bottom of the kettle with boiling water,

cover closely and allow the apples to steam on the back part of the

stove till tender. Lift carefully without breaking, pour the syrup

over them and stand away to cool (delicious served with whipped

cream).

STEWED PRUNES.

Wash carefully and soak in water an hour before cooking, put them into

a porcelain or granite kettle, cover with boiling water and let them

simmer until tender. Add a tbsp. of sugar for each pint of prunes, and

boil a few moments longer.

CRANBERRIES.

Put 1 pint of cranberries in a granite saucepan, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup

of water. After they begin to boil cook 10 minutes, closely covered.

(This may be pressed through a sieve while hot, removing the skins, if

desired for a mould.)

STEWED RHUBARB.

Wash the rhubarb (if young and tender it will not be necessary to

remove the skin), cut into pieces about 1 inch long. To every lb. of

rhubarb allow 1 lb. of sugar. Put the rhubarb into a porcelain or

granite kettle, cover with the sugar, and stand on the back part of

the fire until the sugar melts. Move forward, let simmer for a few

minutes without stirring, turn it out carefully to cool.

BAKED PEARS.

Take large, sweet pears, wipe them but do not remove the stems. Stand

them in an earthen baking dish, pour around them a cup of boiling

water, add 2 tbsps. sugar, cover with another dish and bake slowly

until the pears are tender, basting occasionally with the liquor. When

done, stand away to cool in the dish in which they were baked. When

cold put them into a glass dish, pour the liquor over them and serve.

BAKED APPLES.

Pare and core, without breaking, tart apples. Put them into a shallow

earthen dish, fill the cavities with sugar, add water to cover the

bottom of the dish. Bake in a quick oven till soft, basting often with

the syrup. (Quinces may be baked in the same way.)

* * * * *

VEGETABLES.

Vegetables should be used very freely, as they contain saline

substances which counteract the effect of too much meat, and are the

chief source of mineral supply for the body. In cooking vegetables, a

common rule is to add salt, while cooking, to all classes growing

above ground (including onions), and to omit salt in the cooking of

vegetables growing underground. In cooking vegetables care must be

taken to preserve the flavor, and to prevent the waste of mineral

matter.

CABBAGE.

Cut a small head of cabbage in quarters, soak in cold water 1 hour,

drain and shake dry. Remove the stalk, or hard part, and chop the

remainder rather fine. Put it into a stew-pan with enough boiling

water to cover, and boil 20 minutes. Drain in a colander. Turn into a

hot dish, and pour over it cream sauce or a little melted butter,

pepper and salt.

CAULIFLOWER.

Pick off the outside leaves, soak in cold salted water, top downwards,

for 1 hour. Tie it round with a piece of twine to prevent breaking.

Cook in boiling salted water until tender, remove the string, turn

into a hot dish with the top up, cover with cream sauce or drawn

butter sauce. (When cold, it may be picked to pieces and served in a

salad.)

CELERY.

Scrape clean and cut the stalks into 2-inch pieces: cook in salted

water until tender, drain and cover with a white sauce. The sauce

should be made with the water in which the celery has been stewed.

BOILED BEETS.

Wash, but do not cut them, as that injures the color. Cook in boiling

water until tender. When cooked put them into a pan of cold water and

rub off the skins. They may be cut in slices and served hot with

pepper, butter and salt, or sliced, covered with vinegar, and served

cold. They may be cut into dice and served as a salad, either alone or

mixed with potatoes and other vegetables.

BEANS (DRIED).

Lima beans should be soaked in warm water over night. In the morning

drain off this water and cover with fresh warm water. Two hours before

needed drain, cover with boiling water and boil 30 minutes; drain

again, cover with fresh boiling water, and boil until tender. Add a

teaspoonful of salt while they are boiling. When cooked drain them,

add a little butter, pepper and salt, or a cream sauce.

ASPARAGUS.

Wash the asparagus well in cold water, reject the tough parts, tie in

a bunch or cut into pieces 1 inch long. Put it in a kettle, cover with

boiling water, and boil until tender. Put it in a colander to drain.

Serve with melted butter, pepper and salt, or with a cream or drawn

butter sauce.

ONIONS.

Scald in boiling water, then remove the skins. Put them in boiling

salted water; when they have boiled 10 minutes, change the water. Boil

until tender but not until broken. Drain and serve with either cream

sauce or butter, pepper and salt.

POTATOES.

Wash and scrub with a brush. If old, soak in cold water after paring.

Put them in boiling water, when about half cooked add a tbsp. of salt.

Cook until soft but not broken. Drain carefully. Expose the potatoes

for a minute to a current of air, then cover and place on the back of

the stove to keep hot, allowing the steam to escape.

RICE POTATOES.

Press the cooked potatoes through a coarse strainer into the dish in

which they are to be served.

MASHED POTATOES.

To 1 pint of hot boiled potatoes, add 1 tbsp. butter, 1/2 tsp. of

salt, 1/2 ssp. of white pepper and hot milk or cream to moisten. Mash

in the kettle in which they were boiled, beat with a fork until they

are light and creamy. Turn lightly into a dish.

POTATO PUFFS.

Prepare as for mashed potatoes, adding a little chopped parsley or

celery salt if the flavor is liked. Beat 2 eggs, yolks and whites

separately. Stir the beaten whites in carefully, shape into smooth

balls or cones, brush lightly with the beaten yolks, and bake in a

moderately hot oven until brown.

CREAMED POTATOES.

Cut cold boiled potatoes into thin slices. Put them in a shallow pan,

cover with milk and cook until the potatoes have absorbed nearly all

the milk. To 1 pint of potatoes, add 1 tbsp. of butter, 1/2 tsp. of

salt, 1/2 ssp. of pepper and a little chopped parsley or onion.

BAKED POTATOES.

Select smooth potatoes of uniform size, wash and scrub well. Bake in a

hot oven about 45 minutes or until soft. Break the skin or puncture

with a fork to let the steam escape and serve at once. This is the

most wholesome method of cooking potatoes, as the mineral matter is

retained.

FRIED POTATOES.

Pare, wash and cut into slices or quarters. Soak in cold salted water,

drain and dry between towels. Have sufficient fat in a kettle to more

than cover the potatoes. When it is very hot drop the potatoes in, a

few at a time, so as not to reduce the heat of the fat too quickly.

When brown, which should be in about 4 or 5 minutes for quarters and

about 2 minutes if sliced, drain and sprinkle with salt.

TOMATOES (RAW).

Scald and peel sometime before using, place on ice, and serve with

salt, sugar and vinegar, or with a salad dressing.

SCALLOPED TOMATOES.

Scald and peel as many tomatoes as required. Butter a deep dish and

sprinkle with fine bread or cracker crumbs, then a layer of sliced

tomato, over this sprinkle a little salt, pepper and sugar; then add a

layer of bread crumbs, another of tomatoes, sprinkle again with salt,

pepper and sugar: put bread crumbs on the top, moisten with a little

melted butter, and bake until brown.

STEWED TOMATOES.

Pour boiling water over the tomatoes, remove the skins and the hard

green stem, cut into quarters or slices and stew in a granite kettle

until the pulp is soft, add salt, pepper, butter and a little sugar if

desired. If too thin the tomato may be thickened with crumbs or

cornstarch wet in a little cold water.

SPINACH.

Pick over carefully, discarding all decayed leaves. Wash thoroughly,

then place in a pan of cold water, let stand for a few minutes. Drain

and put in a large kettle with just enough water to keep it from

burning. Cook very slowly until tender. Drain and chop fine, add 1

tbsp. of butter, a tsp. of salt, a ssp. of pepper. It may be served on

toast (hot) or garnished with hard boiled eggs.

CARROTS AND TURNIPS.

Carrots as a vegetable for the table are more palatable when young and

tender. They should be washed and scraped, boiled until tender, and

served with butter, pepper and salt or a white sauce. Turnips contain

little nutriment; having no starch, they are very suitable for eating

with potatoes. They require more salt than any other vegetable, and

should be served with fat meat, corned beef, roast pork or mutton.

Turnips should be washed, pared, cut into slices or strips, boiled

until tender. Drain, mash and season with pepper and salt.

PEAS (GREEN).

Wash the pods, which should be green, crisp and plump, before

shelling, then the peas will not require washing. Put the peas into a

strainer or colander and shake out all the fine particles. Boil until

tender. When nearly done add the salt. Use little water in cooking,

when they may be served without draining; season with a little butter,

pepper and salt. If drained, serve either dry with butter, pepper and

salt, or with a white sauce.

GREEN SWEET CORN.

Remove the husk and silky fibre, cover with boiling water (the flavor

is improved by adding a few of the clean inner husks) and cook, if

young and tender, from 10 to 15 minutes. Try a kernel and take up the

corn as soon as the milk has thickened and the raw taste is

destroyed.

* * * * *

SALADS.

FRENCH DRESSING.

3 tbsps. of olive oil.

1/4 tsp. of salt.

1 tbsp. vinegar.

1/2 ssp. of pepper or speck of cayenne.

Mix these ingredients together and serve. This makes a particularly

good dressing for lettuce or vegetable salads.

SALAD DRESSING.

1/2 cup vinegar.

1 tbsp. sugar.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1/2 cup cream.

2 eggs.

1/2 tsp. mustard.

A speck of cayenne pepper.

Beat the eggs well, mix the sugar, salt, mustard and pepper together,

add to the beaten eggs, then add the vinegar. Place the saucepan on

the range in a pan of boiling water. Stir constantly until the

dressing becomes thick and light. Take from the fire and turn into a

cold bowl at once to prevent curdling. Beat the cream to a thick froth

and stir it into the cold dressing. (When cream is not available use

the same quantity of milk, previously thickened to the consistency of

cream with a little cornstarch, add a tsp. of butter; when cold, add

to the dressing.)

MAYONNAISE DRESSING.

1/2 pt. of olive oil.

1 tsp. mustard.

1/2 tsp. salt.

Yolks of 2 uncooked eggs.

1 tbsp. lemon juice.

1 tbsp. vinegar.

1/2 tsp. sugar.

A speck of cayenne.

Put the yolks of the eggs into a cold bowl, stir in the dry

ingredients, beat well, using a silver or small wooden spoon. Then add

the oil, drop by drop. When the mixture gets so thick that it is

difficult to stir, add a few drops of the vinegar to thin it. Continue

stirring in the oil and vinegar alternately until all are used, when

it should be very thick; add the lemon juice last and beat for a few

minutes longer; a cupful of whipped cream may be stirred into this

dressing before using. (The following rules must be observed in order

to insure success: (1) to beat the yolks and dry ingredients until

thick; (2) to add the oil only in drops at first; (3) always beat or

stir in one direction, reversing the motion is apt to curdle the

dressing.)

LETTUCE SALAD.

Choose crisp, fresh lettuce, wash clean, let it remain for a little

time in cold or ice water, drain thoroughly, break or tear the leaves

into convenient pieces, dress with a French or cooked dressing; serve

at once, cold.

POTATO SALAD.

1 pt. cold boiled potatoes.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1/2 cup cooked dressing. Or the French dressing, as given.

1 tsp. finely chopped onion.

1 sp. pepper.

Cut the potatoes into pieces about the size of dice, mix the

seasonings with the potatoes, turn into a dish in alternate layers of

potatoes and dressing, having a little dressing on top. Garnish with

parsley, and allow to stand at least an hour in a cold place before

serving, so that the potatoes may absorb the seasoning. (Cold boiled

beets cut into cubes may be added in alternate layers with the

potatoes in this recipe, using a little more dressing.)

TOMATO SALAD.

Peel the tomatoes (without scalding) and put them on ice until very

cold, have crisp leaves of lettuce which have been washed and dried.

When ready to serve, cut the tomatoes in halves, place one-half on a

leaf of lettuce (the curly leaves being the best), on this put a tbsp.

of mayonnaise or cooked dressing, and serve immediately.

CABBAGE SALAD.

Cabbage or celery may be used as a salad by cutting rather fine,

allowing it to get cold and crisp, and serving with a cooked or French

dressing. Indeed almost any vegetable may be used for a salad. String

beans, asparagus, cauliflower, which have been cooked, are suitable

for salad, either alone or in combination with nasturtium, cress, hard

boiled eggs, etc.

CHICKEN SALAD.

One pint each of cold boiled or roasted chicken and celery. Cut the

chicken into 1/4-inch dice, scrape, wash and cut the celery into dice,

put the celery in a napkin and lay on the ice for 10 or 12 minutes;

season the chicken with vinegar, salt, pepper and oil (or the French

dressing-oil may be omitted if the flavor is not agreeable,

substituting cream or melted butter). Add the celery to the seasoned

chicken, add half the dressing (using either a cooked or mayonnaise),

heap in a dish, add the remainder of the dressing, garnish with the

tiny bleached celery leaves or small curly lettuce leaves. (A few

capers and a hard boiled egg may be used as a garnish if desired.)

In summer the chicken may be served on a tender lettuce leaf, adding a

spoonful of dressing, and serving very cold.

FRUIT SALAD.

4 oranges.

1 cup water.

1/4 package gelatine.

4 bananas.

Juice of 2 lemons.

1-1/2 cup sugar.

Dissolve the gelatine in the water, add the sugar and lemon juice,

strain and pour over the oranges and bananas, which have been peeled

and sliced and placed in alternate layers in a mould. Set away to

cool. When needed, turn out and serve. Garnish with Malaga grapes,

cherries, currants, or any suitable fruit.

* * * * *

CEREALS.

All cereals require thorough cooking, because of the starch in them,

also to soften the woody fibre. No matter what the cereal product may

be, it should be cooked not less than three-quarters of an hour, and

better if cooked longer.

OATMEAL PORRIDGE.

1 pt. of boiling water.

1/2 cup of oatmeal.

1/2 tsp. salt.

Be sure to have the water boiling. Sprinkle in the oatmeal slowly,

stirring all the time. Add the salt, and move back or set in a vessel

of boiling water where it will cook gently for 1 hour. Do not stir the

porridge after the first 5 minutes.

All porridge (or mush) is made on the same principle.

CRACKED WHEAT

Should be cooked at least 4 or 5 hours.

CORNMEAL

Should be cooked an hour or more.

RICE.

Wash 1 cup of rice. Have 2 quarts of water, with 1 tbsp. salt, boiling

rapidly. Sprinkle in the rice gradually, when you have it all in cover

the kettle and boil 20 minutes. If too thick add a little boiling

water. Test the grains, and the moment they are soft, and before the

starch begins to cloud the water, pour into a colander to drain. Stand

it in the oven a few minutes to dry, leaving the door open. Turn

carefully into a heated dish and serve without a cover. (Do not stir

the rice while cooking.)

RICE CROQUETTES.

1 pint of milk.

4 (l.) tbsps. of sugar.

1/2 cup raisins.

1/2 cup of rice.

1/2 tsp. vanilla.

Yolks of two eggs.

Wash the rice and put it into the boiling milk in a double boiler.

Cook until very thick; add the yolks of the eggs and the sugar, beat

thoroughly. Take from the fire, add the vanilla and the fruit, which

has been well floured. Turn out on a dish to cool, when cold form in

pyramids or cylinders; dip first in beaten egg, then in fine bread

crumbs and fry in deep, boiling fat. Put a little jelly on the top of

each croquette, dust the whole with powdered sugar, and serve with

vanilla sauce or cream and sugar.

BAKED RICE.

Wash 1/2 cup of rice, turn into a buttered pudding dish, add 2 tbsps.

sugar, grate 1/4 of a small nutmeg, add 1 qt. of milk, bake slowly for

at least 1-1/2 hour.

FARINA.

1 pint of milk.

3 level tbsps. of farina.

Put the milk in the double boiler, when the milk boils add the salt,

then sprinkle in the farina, stirring all the while; beat the mixture

well and cook for 30 minutes. Serve with cream and sugar. (This may be

made into a pudding by adding an egg, 2 tbsps. sugar, 1/2 tsp.

vanilla, baking in the oven until brown.)

* * * * *

MACARONI.

Macaroni is quite as valuable as bread for food, and should be used

very freely.

BOILED MACARONI.

Break the macaroni in pieces about 2 inches long. Have boiling water,

add a tsp. of salt; throw in the macaroni and boil rapidly 30 minutes,

put it into a colander to drain, return to the kettle, rub a tbsp. of

butter and flour together until smooth, add either milk or water until

the sauce is as thick as rich cream. Cook it a few minutes before

pouring over the macaroni, and serve (add salt to taste).

MACARONI WITH TOMATO SAUCE.

1/4 lb. macaroni.

1 tbsp. butter.

Salt and pepper to taste.

1 tbsp. flour.

1 cup stewed tomatoes.

Hold the long sticks of macaroni in the hand; put the end into boiling

salted water, as it softens bend and coil in the water without

breaking. Boil rapidly 20 minutes. When done put it in a colander to

drain. Put the butter in a saucepan to melt, add to it the flour, mix

until smooth, then add the tomatoes (which have been strained), stir

carefully until it boils. Pour over the hot macaroni and serve at

once.

MACARONI AND CHEESE.

1/4 lb. of macaroni.

1/4 lb. grated cheese.

Salt and white pepper to taste.

1/2 pt. milk.

1 tsp. butter.

Break the macaroni in pieces about 3 inches long. Put it into plenty

of boiling water. Add 1 tsp. salt and boil rapidly 25 minutes; drain,

throw into cold water to blanch for 10 minutes. Put the milk into the

double boiler, add to it the butter, then the macaroni which has been

drained, and cheese; stir until heated, add the salt and pepper, and

serve. (The macaroni may be placed in a baking dish in alternate

layers with the cheese, sprinkling each layer with pepper and salt,

pouring the milk over the top, cutting the butter in small bits

distributed over the top, and bake until brown in a moderately quick

oven.)

* * * * *

CHEESE.

CHEESE SOUFFLE.

1/4 lb. of cheese.

1 ssp. of soda.

A speck of cayenne.

2 tbsps. flour.

1/2 cup of milk.

1 tsp. mustard.

2 eggs.

2 tbsps. butter.

Put the butter in a saucepan, when melted stir in the flour, add the

milk slowly, then the salt, mustard and cayenne, which have been mixed

together. Add the yolks of the eggs which have been well beaten, then

the grated cheese; stir all together, lift from the fire and set away

to cool. When cold, add the stiff beaten whites, turn into a buttered

dish and bake 25 or 30 minutes. Serve immediately.

WELSH RAREBIT.

1/4 lb. cheese.

1 tsp. mustard.

A speck of cayenne.

1 tsp. butter.

1/4 cup cream or milk.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 egg.

Grate the cheese, put it with the milk in the double boiler. While

this is heating, make some toast. Mix the mustard, salt and pepper,

add the egg and beat well. When the cheese has melted, stir in the egg

and butter, and cook about two minutes, or until it thickens a little,

but do not let it curdle. Pour it over the hot toast and serve at

once.

* * * * *

BEVERAGES.

TEA.

In making tea, the following rules should be observed. The water

should be freshly boiled. The teapot, which should be of earthen or

china (never of tin), should be scalded and heated before putting in

the tea. Pour on the boiling water and cover closely, and let stand

for 3 or 4 minutes before using. Never, under any circumstances,

allow tea to boil. The usual proportion is a small teaspoonful of tea

to 1 cup of boiling water, but this is too strong for general use.

COFFEE.

Coffee may be made in various ways; by filtering, clarifying with an

egg, or made with cold water. A common rule for making coffee is as

follows: 1 heaping tbsp. ground coffee to 2 cups of freshly boiling

water, 1 egg shell. Scald the coffee-pot, put in the coffee and the

egg shell, add the boiling water, cover and boil just 3 minutes.

Before serving, add a tbsp. of cold water; let stand for a few minutes

before using.

COFFEE MADE WITH AN EGG.

1 egg is sufficient to clear 1 cup of ground coffee; if a smaller

quantity be desired, half the egg may be used. Add 1/2 cup cold water

to the portion of egg to be used, and 1/2 cup of ground coffee. Beat

well, put it in the coffee-pot, add 1 qt. of boiling water, and boil 3

minutes. Move back where it will keep hot, but not boil, for 10

minutes. Pour out a little and pour it back again to clear the spout

before serving.

COCOA.

1 pt. of milk.

3 tbsps. of water.

2 (l.) tsps. of cocoa.

Put the milk in the double boiler and set on the fire, mix the cocoa

to a smooth paste with the cold water. When the milk boils, add the

cocoa and boil for 1 minute. Serve very hot. If more water and less

milk be used, allow a little more cocoa.

* * * * *

SOUPS.

Soups may be divided into two classes, soup made with stock, and with

milk. As soup should form part of the regular daily diet, and may be

made from the cheaper materials, it is absolutely necessary that every

housekeeper should understand the art of making it properly.

In the first place it is well to know what may be used in the process

of soup making. The first and most important step is to prepare the

stock. For this purpose have a large earthen bowl or "catch all," as

some teachers call it. Into this put all the bones, trimmings, bits of

steak or chop and gravy which has been left over. Keep in a cold

place. When needed, cover with cold water and simmer 4 or 5 hours;

strain and set away to cool. When cold, remove the fat which will have

formed a solid coating on the top. The stock is now ready for use. By

saving the remains of vegetables cooked for the table, the outer

stocks of celery, a hard boiled egg, etc., a very palatable and

nutritious soup may be made at a trifling cost. In families where

large quantities of meat are used, there should be sufficient material

without buying meat for soup. It is not necessary to have all the

ingredients mentioned in some recipes in order to secure satisfactory

results. It will, however, be necessary to understand soup flavorings,

so as to know which ones may be left out. Stock made from the shin of

beef, or from the cheaper pieces which contain the coarser fibre and

gristle, require long, slow cooking (see Methods).

Never soak meat in water before cooking in any form. Wipe carefully

with a damp cloth before cutting or preparing for use. For soup break

or saw the bones into small pieces, and for each pound of meat and

bone allow 1 qt. of cold water. Cover the kettle closely and let it

heat slowly until it reaches the simmering point, when it should be

moved back and kept at that degree for several hours. Soup should

never be allowed to boil hard. The scum which rises to the surface is

the albumen and juices of the meat, and should not be skimmed off. If

the kettle is clean, and all impurities removed from the meat, there

will not be anything objectionable in the scum. Stock must always be

allowed to remain until cold, so that the fat may be removed before

using. A strong, greasy soup is rarely relished, and is one of the

principal reasons why so many people dislike this valuable article of

diet. Do not add salt to the meat which is being prepared for stock

until a few minutes before removing from the fire. Salt hardens the

water if added at first and makes the tissues more difficult to

dissolve. Stock may be kept for several days by occasionally bringing

it to the boiling point. This is not necessary in winter if it is kept

in a cold place.

VEGETABLE SOUP.

1 qt. stock.

1/2 cup each chopped turnip and cabbage.

1 tsp. sugar.

1 ssp. pepper.

1/2 cup each of onion, carrot, celery (chopped).

1-1/2 tsp. salt.

If all these vegetables are not available, a little macaroni, rice or

barley may be added. Chop all the vegetables very fine, cabbage or

onions should be parboiled 5 minutes, drain carefully. Put all the

vegetables together, cover with 1 qt. of water and simmer until

tender, then add the stock, the seasoning, and allow it to simmer

about 10 minutes. Serve without straining.

TOMATO SOUP.

1 pt. of canned or stewed tomatoes.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 tsp. sugar.

1 tbsp. butter.

2 whole cloves or 1/2 bay leaf.

1 pt. of stock.

1/2 ssp. pepper.

1 tbsp. minced onion.

1 tbsp. flour or cornstarch.

A speck of cayenne may be added if desired.

Put the tomato and stock in a saucepan and set on the fire. Cook the

vegetables in the butter for 15 minutes; then press out the butter and

put the vegetables in the soup. Into the butter remaining in the pan

put the flour and stir until smooth, then add to the soup. Allow all

to simmer for 20 minutes; strain and serve.

SPLIT PEA SOUP.

1 pt. of split peas.

1-1/2 qt. of boiling water.

1 qt. of stock.

Salt and pepper to taste.

Wash the peas in cold water (rejecting those which float) and soak

them over night. In the morning drain the water off and cover them

again with 1 qt. of the boiling water. Boil until tender, about 1-1/2

hour. Now add the stock and 1 pt. of the boiling water. Press the

whole through a sieve; wash the soup kettle, return the soup, boil up

once, add salt and pepper and serve with croutons. Dried pea soup may

be made in exactly the same manner, using 1 pt. of dried peas instead

of the split ones.

ONION SOUP.

1 large Spanish onion.

1 qt. stock.

1 tbsp. flour.

2 tbsps. butter.

Salt and pepper to taste.

Peel and chop the onion. Put the butter in a frying-pan, add the

onion, and stir until a nice brown. Put the stock on to boil. Skim the

onions out of the butter and add them to the stock. Stir 1 tbsp. of

flour into the remaining butter, thin with a little of the stock, put

all together, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add salt and pepper, and it

is ready to serve.

MACARONI SOUP.

1 qt. clear soup.

1 tsp. salt.

5 sticks macaroni.

Break the macaroni into small pieces and throw it into 1 quart of

boiling water containing the tsp. of salt. Let it boil uncovered 25

minutes. Drain off the water and add the macaroni to the hot stock,

cover and cook slowly for 10 or 15 minutes. A little more seasoning

may be added if desired.

OYSTER SOUP.

1 pt. oysters.

1/2 pt. cold water.

1/4 tsp. pepper.

Salt to taste.

1 pt. milk.

2 (l.) tbsps. flour.

2 tbsps. butter.

Put a strainer over a bowl and turn the oysters into it. Pour the

water over the oysters and stir with a spoon until all the liquid has

passed through the strainer. Reserve 1/2 cup of the milk, pouring the

remainder into the double boiler, set it on the fire. Put the oyster

liquor in a stew-pan, and heat slowly. Mix the cold milk with the

flour, and stirring into the boiling milk; cook for 10 minutes. When

the oyster liquor boils, skim it. When the flour and milk have cooked

for 10 minutes, add the oysters, butter, salt, pepper and oyster

liquor. Cook until the oysters curl on the edge and are plump. Serve

at once.

BEAN SOUP (WITHOUT STOCK).

1 qt. dried white beans.

1 large tbsp. butter.

2 qts. water.

Salt and pepper to taste.

Wash the beans, cover them with water, and soak over night. Next

morning drain, put them on to boil with 2 quarts of fresh cold water.

As soon as they come to a boil drain this water off and throw it away.

Cover again with 2 quarts of fresh boiling water, add 1 ssp. of soda,

and boil until soft. Press the beans through a sieve, return to the

kettle, and if too thick add enough boiling water to make the soup

about the consistency of cream. Add the salt, pepper and butter, and

serve. (Minced onion, carrot, or celery fried in a little butter or

dripping, and added to this soup before straining, improves the

flavor.)

BOUILLON.

2 lbs. lean beef.

1 small onion.

A sprig of parsley.

1 qt. cold water.

1 stalk celery, or 1/2 tsp. celery seed.

1 bay leaf.

Remove all the fat and chop the meat very fine. Put it into the soup

kettle with the water, bay leaf, parsley, onion and celery. Cover the

kettle closely and place it in the back part of the range for 2 hours.

Then move it over and let it come to a boil; skim at the first boil.

Move back and simmer gently for 4 hours. Strain, return to the kettle,

add salt and pepper. Beat the white of one egg with 1/2 cup of cold

water until thoroughly mixed. Wash the egg shell, mash it and add to

the white. Now add the white, shell and water to the boiling bouillon;

let it boil hard for 10 minutes, then throw in 1/2 cup of cold water

and boil 5 minutes longer. Take the kettle off the fire, strain

through a flannel bag, add salt to taste, and color with caramel. (See

recipe for caramel.) This is an excellent preparation for invalids.

* * * * *

FISH.

Fish is an invaluable article of food. It provides variety in diet,

and while less stimulating than meat, is usually more easily digested.

Fish should be perfectly fresh and thoroughly cooked. The most

wholesome as well as the most palatable methods for cooking fish are

broiling and baking. The flesh of fresh fish is firm and will not

retain the impress of the finger if pressed into it. The eyes should

be bright and glassy, the gills red and full of blood. Fish should be

cleaned as soon as possible and thoroughly wiped with a cloth wet in

salt water, and should be kept in a cool place. Do not put it near

other food such as milk, butter, etc., as they will absorb the odor.

BROILED FISH.

Rub a double broiler well with a piece of suet before putting in the

fish. Lay the fish flat so that the flesh side will be exposed on one

side of the broiler and the skin on the other. Broil carefully, as the

skin side burns very quickly. A fish weighing 3 lbs. will take about

25 or 30 minutes to broil. When cooked sprinkle with salt and pepper,

and serve very hot.

BAKED FISH.

1 cup cracker or bread crumbs.

1 ssp. salt.

1 tsp. chopped onion.

1 tsp. chopped parsley.

1 ssp. pepper.

1/4 cup melted butter or dripping.

Clean, wipe and dry the fish, rub with salt; fill with stuffing and

sew or tie carefully. Rub all over with butter (or dripping), salt and

pepper, dredge with flour, put it into a hot oven; baste when the

flour is brown, and often afterwards. Remove carefully from the pan

and place upon a hot platter.

SCALLOPED FISH.

Pick over carefully any remnants of cold boiled or baked fish, put

into a shallow dish in alternate layers with bread crumbs and cream

sauce. Cover with crumbs and bake till brown.

SALT FISH BALLS.

1 cup salt fish.

1 tsp. butter.

1/4 ssp. pepper.

1 pint potatoes.

1 egg, well beaten.

More salt if needed.

Wash the fish, pick in pieces and free from bones. Pare the potatoes

and cut in quarters. Put the potatoes and fish in a stew-pan and cover

with boiling water. Boil until the potatoes are tender. Drain off all

the water; mash and beat the fish and potatoes till very light. Add

the butter and pepper, and when slightly cooled add the egg. Lift in a

tbsp. and drop into smoking hot fat 1 minute, drain on brown paper;

they may be formed into balls and browned in a very hot oven.

* * * * *

MEAT.

(_See Analysis, Chap. V._)

As meat is composed of several substances, fibrine, albumen, gelatin,

fat and the juices, it is necessary to understand the various methods

of cooking in order to secure the best results. Meat has its season as

well as many other foods. Pork is better in autumn and winter; veal in

the spring and summer; fowl in autumn and winter; lamb in the summer

and autumn; mutton and beef may be used any time. Meat should not be

allowed to remain in the paper in which it comes from market, as it

absorbs the juices and injures the flavor. Wipe all over with a clean

wet cloth. Examine carefully, remove any tainted or unclean portions

and keep in a clean, cool place until required. Good beef should be a

bright red color, well mixed with fat, and a layer of fat on the

outside; the suet should be dry and crumble easily. (See meat diagrams

for different cuts.) Mutton should have an abundance of clear, white

fat, the flesh fine grained and a bright red color. The fat of veal

should be clear and white, the lean pink, and should always be

thoroughly cooked. Pork is more indigestible when fresh than when

cured, as in bacon and ham. Fresh pork should be firm, the fat white,

the lean a pale red.

ROAST OF BEEF.

Wipe, trim, and tie or skewer into shape the cut for roasting. If

there be a large piece of the flank, cut it off and use for soups or

stews. If you wish to roast it, turn it underneath and fasten with a

skewer. Lay the meat on a rack in a pan, and dredge all over with

flour. Put on the top of a roast 2 or 3 tbsps. of dripping or pieces

of the fat; put it in a very hot oven at first. After the outside has

become seared, check off the heat and allow to cook slowly, basting

frequently. (See time table for baking.)

BROILED STEAK.

Trim the steak free from all suet (save all trimmings for stews or the

stock pot). Put the meat plate to warm, grease the broiler with a

little of the fat. See that the fire is clear. Put the steak on the

hot broiler and place it over the fire, turning every 10 seconds. It

will take about 8 minutes if the steak is 1 inch thick. When done,

place it on the hot plate, dredge it with salt and pepper; turn over

and season the other side. Serve immediately.

PAN-BROILED STEAK.

When the fire is not suitable for broiling, heat the frying pan until

smoking hot; trim the steak as for broiling, place firmly on the hot

pan, turn frequently as in broiling, with a broad knife or pancake

turner; never insert a fork, as it allows the juice to escape. It will

cook in 10 minutes. Season, and serve the same as broiled steak. If a

gravy is desired, fry a little of the suet and trimmings in the

pan--after the steak has been removed--until brown, lift out the meat

or suet, add 1 tbsp. of flour, stir until brown, add pepper and salt

to taste, then add 1 teacup of boiling water. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes

and strain over the steak.

HAMBURG STEAK.

1 lb. of steak from the upper side of the round, or any piece of lean

beef free from gristle; chop very fine, add 1 tbsp. of onion juice

(or finely minced onion), 1/2 tsp. salt, 1/2 ssp. black pepper, mix

well together; dip the hands in cold water, take 2 tbsps. of the

mixture and form with the hands into small round cakes. Have the

frying pan very hot, put in 2 tbsps. of dripping; when hot, put in the

steaks, brown on both sides--or they may be pan-broiled. Place them on

a hot dish, add a tbsp. of flour to the fat remaining in the pan, mix

until smooth and brown; add a cupful of boiling water, stir until it

boils, add pepper and salt to taste, and pour over the steak.

BEEF STEW WITH DUMPLINGS.

2 lbs. of lean beef (cheaper cuts). Cut into pieces about 1 inch

square, dredge with flour. Put 2 tbsps. of dripping into a frying pan;

as soon as it is very hot put in the meat and shake or stir until

nicely browned. Skim out the meat and put it in a saucepan. Add 1

tbsp. of flour to the dripping remaining in the pan, mix and add 1

quart of boiling water; stir over the fire until it boils, then strain

it over the meat; add one small onion, pepper and salt to taste. Cover

the saucepan closely and let it simmer for 2 hours. Make the dumplings

by sifting 1 pint of flour, to which has been added 2 tsps. baking

powder. Add 1/4 tsp. salt and enough milk to make a soft dough. Lift

the dough in spoonfuls, placing them over the meat, cover quickly and

let boil 10 minutes. Do not uncover the saucepan while the dumplings

are cooking or they will fall immediately. Be careful not to allow the

stew to burn while the dumplings are cooking.

POT ROAST.

Trim off the rough parts of a brisket of beef or any of the cheaper

cuts. Place it in a kettle over a good fire; brown on one side, then

turn and brown on the other; add 1 pint of boiling water, cover

closely and simmer, allowing 20 minutes to every pound. Add pepper and

salt when the meat is nearly done.

BRAISED BEEF.

From 4 to 6 lbs. of beef from the lower part of the round or rump.

Trim and rub well with salt, pepper and flour. Chop 2 small onions and

fry until light brown in pork fat or dripping; skim them out and put

them into the pan in which the meat is to be braised, then brown the

meat all over, adding more fat if needed (this may be done in a very

hot oven). Put the meat into the pan, on skewers to keep it from

sticking, with the onions around it. Add 1 qt. of boiling water, cover

closely, putting a brick or heavy weight on the cover to keep it down,

and cook in a moderate oven 4 hours, basting occasionally. Turn once

and add more water as it evaporates, so as to have 1 pt. left for

gravy. When tender take up the meat, remove the fat, add more salt and

pepper, and if liked, a little lemon juice or tomato may be added.

Thicken with 2 tbsps. of flour wet in a little cold water. Cook 10

minutes and pour the gravy over the meat. Any tough meat may be cooked

in this way.

HASH.

Take any pieces left of a cold roast, steaks or stews, chop very fine;

take 1 tbsp. butter or dripping, 1 tbsp. of flour, stir together in a

hot frying pan, when brown add 1 cup boiling water; add 1 tbsp.

chopped onion, pepper and salt to taste, let simmer for 10 minutes,

then add the meat, stir until heated thoroughly and serve on toast.

CORNED BEEF OR SAUSAGE HASH.

1 pt. hashed corn beef or sausage.

1 tsp. salt.

1 tbsp. butter or dripping.

1 pt. of hashed potatoes.

1/4 tsp. pepper.

1/2 cup of milk.

(Omit the milk if sausage is used).

Mix the potato and meat, season with the pepper and salt, add the milk

and stir lightly. Put the butter or dripping into a hot frying pan,

when melted put in the hash, spread it lightly and evenly, but do not

stir it. Cover the pan and set where the hash will cook slowly for 10

or 15 minutes. Move over to a hotter part of the stove and let it

remain until a rich, brown crust has formed on the bottom. Fold over

and serve on a hot dish.

MUTTON--BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.

Wipe the leg with a damp towel. Dust a cloth with flour and wrap the

leg up with it. Put it into a kettle of boiling water and simmer

gently 20 minutes to every pound; add salt when the leg is nearly

done. When cooked remove the cloth carefully, garnish with parsley and

serve with caper sauce. Save the liquor in which it was boiled for

broth, stews, etc.

IRISH STEW.

3 lbs. of the neck of mutton.

4 good sized onions.

4 potatoes cut into dice.

2 qts. of water.

Salt and pepper to taste.

Cut the meat into small pieces, cover with the water, which should be

boiling, add the onions sliced, and simmer gently for 3 hours. About

1/2 hour before the meat is done add the potatoes, season with pepper

and salt, and serve.

TO BAKE OR ROAST A QUARTER OF LAMB.

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, place in a baking pan, dredge with

pepper, put 1 tsp. of salt in the pan, add just enough water to keep

the pan from burning until enough of its own fat has fried out to use

for basting. Baste at least every 10 minutes; allow 15 minutes to

every pound in a very hot oven. Serve with mint sauce.

LAMB CHOPS

Are broiled or pan-broiled the same as beefsteak.

VEAL--VEAL CUTLETS.

Have the cutlets about 1/4 of an inch thick, dredge with salt, pepper

and flour. Put a tbsp. of dripping in a frying pan, and when very hot

put in the cutlets; when brown on one side turn and brown on the

other, take out and place on a hot dish. Add a tbsp. of flour to the

fat remaining in the pan, mix and stir until brown; add a cupful of

boiling water, pepper and salt to taste, stir until it boils, pour

over the cutlets, and serve.

STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

Wipe the knuckle well with a damp cloth. Cut it into pieces. Put into

a kettle with 2 quarts of boiling water, add 1 onion chopped, 1/4 lb.

of chopped ham, and 1 bay leaf, pepper and salt to taste. Cover and

stew slowly for 2-1/2 hours (a half cup of rice may be added to this

stew).

JELLIED VEAL.

1 knuckle of veal.

1 blade of mace.

12 whole cloves.

1/2 cup of vinegar.

1 onion.

1 bay leaf.

6 pepper corns.

Salt and pepper to taste.

Wipe the knuckle and cut it into pieces. Put into a kettle with 2

quarts of cold water; bring slowly to simmering point; skim and simmer

gently for 2 hours; then add the onion, mace, bay leaf, cloves, pepper

corns, and simmer 1 hour longer. Take out the knuckle, carefully

remove the bones and put the meat into a mould or square pan. Boil the

liquor until reduced to 1 quart, add the vinegar, pepper and salt to

taste, strain and pour over the meat. Stand away until cold, when it

may be turned out and garnished with parsley and lemon.

FILLET OF VEAL (STUFFED).

1 cup of bread crumbs.

1 tsp. of summer savory.

1 ssp. of pepper.

1/2 cup of chopped salt pork or ham.

1 tsp. of salt.

Have the bone removed from the shoulder, fill the space from which the

bone was taken with the stuffing, fasten the meat together with a

skewer to prevent the stuffing from coming out, put into the pan with

3 or 4 tbsps. of dripping, allowing 20 minutes to each pound, basting

frequently in a moderately hot oven.

PORK AND BEANS.

Soak the beans over night in cold water. In the morning wash them well

in a colander, put them on to boil in cold water, at the first boil

drain this water off and cover with fresh boiling water. Score the

rind of the pork and put it in with the beans. Simmer gently until you

can blow off the skin of the beans. To do this, take 3 or 4 beans in

your hand, blow hard on them, and if the skin cracks they are done.

Take out the pork and drain. Put the beans into an earthen pot or

granite kettle with a cover; almost bury the pork in the centre of the

beans. Add 1 tsp. of salt to 1 pint of the water in which the beans

were boiled, pour this into the pot, sprinkle with pepper, pour over

the beans 1 large spoonful of molasses, put on the lid, bake in a

moderate oven for 6 or 8 hours. If baked in an ordinary iron baking

pan they must be covered with another on which has been placed a

weight, carefully watched, and baked only 3 hours.

ROAST SPARE RIBS.

Put the spare ribs in a baking pan, sprinkle lightly with pepper, add

1/2 tsp. of salt to 1/2 cup of boiling water, and pour in the bottom

of the pan. Roast 20 minutes to every lb., basting often. When done,

make a gravy and serve as for any other roast. (Spare ribs may be

stuffed, the ribs cracked crosswise, the stuffing placed in the

centre, the two ends folded over, roast as above.)

BROILED HAM.

Have the ham cut into slices about 1/4 inch thick, trim off the rind

and rusty edge. Broil the same as steak or chops. (This is a very nice

way to serve ham with poached eggs.)

Ham may be pan-broiled as directed in former recipes.

FRIED BACON.

Cut into very thin slices, put into a very hot frying pan, and cook

until clear and crisp.

SAUSAGE.

Prick the skins with a sharp fork so as to prevent bursting; place

them in a frying pan over a moderate fire and fry in their own fat

until a nice brown. After taking the sausage from the pan, add 1 tbsp.

of flour to the fat in the pan, add 1 cup of boiling water, stir until

it boils, pour over the sausage and serve.

LIVER AND BACON.

Have the bacon cut in thin slices and keep it cold until the time to

cook it. Have the liver cut into slices about 1/3 of an inch thick. If

it be calf or sheep's liver, wash it in cold water and let it drain;

but if it be beef liver, after washing it, cover with boiling water

and let it stand for 5 minutes, then drain it. Cook the bacon as

directed, then take it up. Lay the slices of liver in the hot fat,

cook them for 8 or 10 minutes, turning often; season with pepper and

salt. Arrange the liver on a warm platter, make a gravy as directed in

other recipes, pour over the liver, placing the bacon round the

outside. (Always cook bacon quickly and liver slowly.)

* * * * *

POULTRY.

The best chickens have soft yellow feet, short thick legs, smooth,

moist skin and plump breast; the cartilage on the end of the breast

bone is soft and pliable. Pin feathers always indicate a young bird

and long hairs an older one. All poultry should be dressed as soon as

killed. Cut off the head, and if the fowl is to be roasted, slip the

skin back from the neck and cut the neck off close to the body,

leaving skin enough to fold over on the back. Remove the windpipe,

pull the crop away from the skin on the neck and breast, and cut off

close to the opening in the body. Cut through the skin about 2 inches

below the leg joint, bend the leg at the cut by pressing it on the

edge of the table and break off the bone. Then pull out the tendon. If

care be taken to cut only through the skin, these cords may be pulled

out easily, one at a time, with the fingers; or by putting the foot of

the fowl against the casing of a door, then shut the door tightly and

pull on the leg. The drum stick of a roast chicken or turkey is

greatly improved by removing the tendons. Cut out the oil bag in the

tail, make an incision near the vent, insert two fingers, keeping the

fingers up close to the breast bone until you can reach in beyond the

liver and heart, and loosen on either side down toward the back. Draw

everything out carefully. See that the kidneys and lungs are not left

in, and be very careful not to break any of the intestines. When the

fowl has been cleaned carefully it will not require much washing.

Rinse out the inside quickly and wipe dry. In stuffing and trussing a

fowl, place the fowl in a bowl and put the stuffing in at the neck,

fill out the breast until plump. Then draw the neck skin together at

the ends and sew it over on the back. Put the remainder of the

stuffing into the body at the other opening and sew with coarse thread

or fine twine. Draw the thighs up close to the body and tie the legs

over the tail firmly with twine. Put a long skewer through the thigh

into the body and out through the opposite thigh, turn the tips of

the wings under the back of the fowl, put a long skewer through from

one wing to the other. Wind a string from the tail to the skewer in

the thigh, then up to the one in the wing across the back to the other

wing, then down to the opposite side and tie firmly round the tail. If

you have no skewers, the fowl may be kept in shape by tying carefully

with twine. Clean all the giblets, cut away all that looks green near

the gall bladder, open the gizzard and remove the inner lining without

breaking. Put the gizzard, heart, liver, and the piece of neck which

has been cut off, into cold water, wash carefully, put in a saucepan,

cover with cold water, place on the back of the stove and simmer till

tender. Use the liquid for making the gravy; the meat may be chopped

and used for giblet soup.

ROAST CHICKEN (OR TURKEY).

Singe carefully, remove the pin feathers, draw as directed above.

Wipe, stuff, sew and tie or skewer into shape, dredge with flour,

cover with plenty of dripping; roast in a hot oven. When the flour is

brown check the heat, baste frequently with the fat, and when nearly

cooked dredge with pepper and salt and again with flour. Bake a 4 lb.

chicken 1-1/2 hour, or until the joints separate easily. If browning

too fast, cover with paper. (Roast chicken is considered to be more

wholesome and to have a better flavor when cooked without stuffing.)

FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN.

The first attempt of an inexperienced cook in the preparation of a

chicken should be a fricassee, as it will provide an opportunity for

her to study the anatomy of a chicken while cutting it in pieces, and

also show her the position of the intestines, so that when she

attempts to draw a fowl she will know just where to place her hand so

as to remove them without breaking.

To prepare a chicken for a fricassee, clean and singe. Cut the chicken

at the joints in pieces for serving. Place in a kettle, cover with

boiling water, add 2 level tsps. of salt, a ssp. of pepper (some like

a small piece of salt pork). Simmer until tender, reducing the water

to a pint or less, lift the chicken, melt 1 tbsp. of butter in a

saucepan, add 2 tbsps. of flour, and when well mixed pour on slowly

the chicken liquor. Add more salt if needed, pepper, 1/2 tsp. of

celery salt, 1 tsp. of lemon juice (an egg may be used by beating and

pouring the sauce slowly on the egg, stirring well before adding it to

the chicken). Pour this gravy over the chicken and serve; dumplings

may be added if desired, or it may be placed in a deep dish, covered

with pastry and baked for chicken pie.

(The chicken may be browned in a little hot fat as in braising meat,

and cooked in the same way.)

BROILED CHICKEN.

Singe and split a young chicken down the back. Break the joints, clean

and wipe with a wet cloth, sprinkle with pepper and salt, rub well

with butter or dripping, place in a double grid-iron and broil 20

minutes over a clear fire. The chicken may be covered with fine bread

crumbs or dredged with flour, allowing a plentiful supply of butter or

dripping, and baked in a hot oven 1/2 hour.

MEAT SOUFFLE.

Make 1 cup of white sauce and season with chopped parsley and onion

juice. Stir 1 cup of chopped meat (chicken, tongue, veal or lamb) into

the sauce. When hot, add the beaten yolks of two eggs; cook 1 minute

and set away to cool. When cool, stir in the whites, beat very stiff.

Bake in a buttered dish about twenty minutes and serve immediately.

CROQUETTES.

These may be made with any kind of cooked meat, fish, rice, potatoes,

etc., or from a mixture of several ingredients, when mixed with a

thick white sauce, as follows: 1 pint hot milk, 2 tbsps. butter or

beef dripping, 6 (l.) tbsps. flour, or 4 (l.) tbsps. cornstarch, 1/2

tsp. salt, 1/2 ssp. white pepper, 1/2 tsp. celery salt, a speck of

cayenne. Melt the butter or dripping in a saucepan, when hot add the

dry cornstarch or flour. Stir till well mixed. Add 1/3 of the hot milk

and stir as it boils and thickens, add the remainder of the hot milk

gradually. The sauce should be very thick. Add the seasoning, and mix

it while hot with the meat or fish. It is improved by adding a beaten

egg just before the sauce is taken from the fire. When cold, shape

into rolls or like a pear, roll lightly in beaten egg, then in bread

crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat. Drain on coarse brown paper. If the

mixture be too soft to handle easily stir in enough fine cracker or

soft bread crumbs to stiffen it, but never flour.

* * * * *

HOT PUDDINGS.

APPLE PUDDING (BAKED).

1 pint flour.

1/4 cup butter or dripping.

1 cup milk.

1 tsp. cream of tartar.

3 tbsps. sugar.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 egg.

1/2 tsp. soda sifted into the flour.

6 tart apples.

Mix the dry ingredients, beat the egg and mix it with the milk, stir

this into the dry mixture. Core, pare and cut the apples into quarters

(if large into eighths). Place in the bottom of a pudding dish,

sprinkle over them the sugar, a little nutmeg or cinnamon may be added

if desired. Put the mixture over this, lifting the apples with a fork

or spoon so as to let the mixture penetrate to the bottom of the pan.

Bake in a moderately hot oven about 30 minutes. Serve with lemon sauce

or thin custard.

COTTAGE PUDDING.

1/2 pint sifted flour.

1/2 cup sugar.

1/4 tsp. salt.

1 egg.

1/2 cup milk.

1 tbsp. butter.

2 tsps. baking powder (level).

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the unbeaten egg, beat

vigorously for 3 or 4 minutes, add the salt, then the flour, with

which the baking powder should be mixed. Beat for a few seconds, then

turn the batter into a small, buttered pudding dish, bake about 25

minutes in a moderate oven; serve with lemon sauce.

LEMON PUDDING.

4 level tbsps. granulated sugar.

1 ssp. of salt.

2 tbsps. milk.

The juice and grated rind of a small lemon.

6 (l.) tsps. cornstarch.

1 tbsp. butter.

1/2 cup water.

1 egg.

Mix the cornstarch with 3 tbsps. cold water; put the remainder of the

water in the saucepan and set on to boil. Stir into this the mixed

cornstarch and cook until clear. Take from the fire, add the salt and

lemon, reserving 1/2 tsp. of the lemon. Beat the butter to a cream,

gradually beat into it the sugar, the yolk of the egg, lastly the

milk. Stir this mixture into the cooked ingredients, and bake in a

moderate oven for 20 minutes. Beat the white of the egg to a stiff

froth, beat into it 1 tbsp. of powdered sugar and the 1/2 tsp. of

lemon juice. Spread this over the hot pudding and leave in the oven

until slightly browned. (This pudding is better served very cold.)

BREAD PUDDING.

1 pint stale bread crumbs.

1 quart of sugar.

1 ssp. of nutmeg or cinnamon.

2 eggs.

1/2 tsp. salt.

Soak the bread crumbs for 1 hour in 1 quart of milk. Beat the eggs,

add the sugar and seasoning, stir all into the bread crumbs, bake 1

hour in a buttered pudding dish. (Raisins or currants may be added if

desired.)

Another method for making bread pudding is to butter thin slices of

stale bread, spread with a little jam or sprinkle a few currants (well

washed) over each layer, lay them in a pudding dish, pour over a quart

of milk, to which has been added 3 well beaten eggs, 1/2 cup sugar.

Bake until the custard thickens. This pudding may be served either hot

or cold.

STEAMED APPLE PUDDING.

3 pints pared and quartered apples.

1/2 pint flour.

1/2 cup sugar.

1 tbsp. butter.

1/4 of a grated nutmeg.

1/2 cup milk.

1/2 pint water.

1/4 tsp. salt.

2 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

Put the apples, water, sugar, and nutmeg into a porcelain or granite

saucepan and set on the fire. When the apples begin to boil, set back

where they will cook gently. Mix the flour, salt and baking powder

together. Rub the butter into this dry mixture, wet with the milk,

stir quickly into a soft dough. Press or roll the dough lightly into a

round piece about the size of the top of the saucepan. Lay this on the

apples; put on a close cover and continue cooking gently for 30

minutes. The crust may be lifted to a plate for a moment, the apples

turned into a pudding dish, then placing the crust over the top. To be

served with lemon or nutmeg sauce.

BOILED RICE PUDDING.

1/2 cup rice.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 pint milk.

1/2 cup raisins.

Wash the rice well. Put it on the fire in 1 pint of cold water and let

it cook for 10 minutes. Drain off the water, add the salt and milk;

then cook in the double boiler for 2 hours, add the raisins when about

half cooked. Do not stir the rice while it is cooking.

BROWN BETTY.

Pare, core and slice 6 or 7 tart apples. Put a layer of stale bread

crumbs in the bottom of the baking dish, then a layer of the apples,

another layer of bread crumbs and apples, and so on until all are

used, having the last layer crumbs. Add 1/2 cup of water to 1/2 cup

molasses, stir in 2 tbsps. of brown sugar; pour it over the crumbs and

bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour.

APPLE SNOW.

6 apples.

Juice of 1 lemon.

1 cup white sugar.

Whites of 6 eggs.

Pare, core and steam the apples until tender, then press them through

a sieve and put aside to cool; when cold add the sugar and lemon

juice. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, add the

apples to them by spoonfuls, beating all the while. Heap in a glass

dish and serve immediately. (This is a very delicate and wholesome

pudding for an invalid.)

SCALLOPED APPLES.

Made the same as Brown Betty, omitting the molasses, adding water and

a little lemon juice instead.

SUET PUDDING.

1 cup suet.

1 cup molasses.

3 cups flour.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 cup raisins.

1 cup milk.

1 tsp. cinnamon.

2 tsps. baking powder.

Chop the suet very fine. Stone the raisins. Add the molasses to the

suet, then the milk: mix well and add the salt, flour and cinnamon.

Beat vigorously for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the raisins. Rub in the

flour, to which has been added the baking powder; mix thoroughly, turn

into a buttered mould, steam for 3 hours.

TAPIOCA PUDDING.

1 cup tapioca.

4 eggs.

1/2 cup sugar.

1 quart milk.

1/4 tsp. salt.

1 tsp. vanilla.

Wash the tapioca carefully, then add it to the milk and soak 2 hours.

Beat the eggs and sugar together, add the salt, stir into the tapioca

and milk, and bake in a moderate oven at least 3/4 of an hour. Serve

hot or cold.

CHOCOLATE PUDDING.

1 egg.

2 tbsps. cornstarch.

3 tbsps. sugar.

1/2 tsp. vanilla.

1 pint milk.

1 tbsp. boiling water.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 oz. shaved chocolate.

Reserve 1/2 cup milk, put the remainder on the fire in a double

boiler. Mix the cold milk with the cornstarch and salt. Beat the egg

well and add to the cornstarch mixture. Stir this into the boiling

milk and stir well. Put the chocolate, sugar and boiling water into a

small frying pan or saucepan, and set over a hot fire. Stir until the

mixture is smooth and glossy; beat this into the pudding and cook for

2 minutes longer. Take from the fire and add the vanilla. Dip a mould

into cold water and turn the pudding into it. Set away to cool. When

cold and stiff, turn out on a flat dish and surround with whipped

cream; or serve with cream and sugar or a soft custard.

SNOW PUDDING.

1/4 box gelatine.

1 cup boiling water.

1 cup sugar.

2 tbsps. cold water.

Juice of one lemon.

Whites of 2 eggs.

Soak the gelatine in cold water for 2 hours. Pour upon this the

boiling water and stir until the gelatine is dissolved; then add the

sugar and lemon juice, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Set the

bowl in a pan of cold water, or broken ice. Stir frequently; when it

begins to thicken, stir in the beaten whites of the eggs, pour into a

mould and set away until firm. Serve with boiled custard.

CREAM PIE.

Make a plain cup cake, and bake it in a shallow cake pan. When cooked

and cold, split it carefully. Put 1 pint of milk on to boil in a

farina boiler. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs and 1/2 cup of sugar together

until light, then add the well-beaten whites, and stir them into the

boiling milk; stir over the fire for about 1 minute, then take from

the fire, add 1 tsp. of vanilla, and stand away to cool. When cold,

and ready to serve, put a thick layer of this sauce between the layers

of cake, pour the remaining sauce around the pie, and serve

immediately.

BLANC MANGE.

1 pint milk.

2 tbsps. sugar.

4 (l.) tbsps. cornstarch.

1/2 ssp. salt.

Put the milk on to boil. Moisten the cornstarch with a little cold

milk, then add it to the boiling milk, and stir until it thickens; let

it cook slowly for 5 minutes; add the sugar and salt, take from the

fire, pour into a mould and set away to harden.

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE.

1 pint flour.

1/2 tsp. salt.

3 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

1 oz. butter.

1 cup milk.

Mix the salt, flour and butter together. Sift, then add the baking

powder and sift again. Add the liquid gradually, mixing and cutting

with a knife until the dough is light and spongy; turn it out on a

well floured board, pat into a flat cake and roll gently till 1/2 an

inch thick. Bake in a spider or pie plate in a rather hot oven. Split

and spread with sweetened berries and serve either hot or cold.

* * * * *

PUDDING SAUCES.

PLAIN SAUCE.

1 cup water.

1 tsp. butter.

1/2 ssp. grated nutmeg.

3 tbsps. sugar.

2 tsps. flour or cornstarch.

Melt the butter and flour together, stir in the hot water, add the

sugar and flavoring, cook until smooth and clear.

MOLASSES SAUCE.

1/2 cup molasses.

1/2 cup water or 1/2 tbsp. vinegar.

2 (l.) tsps. flour.

1/2 cup sugar.

1 tbsp. lemon juice.

1 tbsp. butter.

1/2 ssp. salt.

Mix the flour and sugar together. Pour the boiling water upon it. Add

the molasses and place on the range. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the

other ingredients; boil up once and serve. (Omit lemon if vinegar is

used.)

CREAM SAUCE.

1 egg.

1 tsp. butter.

1 tsp. cornstarch.

1/2 cup powdered sugar.

1 tsp. vanilla.

1 cup boiling milk.

Beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth; then gradually beat into

it the powdered sugar and cornstarch. Next add the yolk of the egg and

beat well. Pour upon this the cupful of boiling milk and place on the

fire. Stir until it boils, then add the butter and vanilla.

LEMON SAUCE.

1 tbsp. cornstarch.

1/2 cup sugar.

1 pint boiling water.

1 tbsp. butter.

1 egg.

1 lemon.

Beat the egg, add the cornstarch and sugar, stir them well together;

add the boiling water gradually and stir over the fire until thick;

add the butter, juice and grated rind of one lemon. Serve hot.

VANILLA SAUCE.

1 cup milk.

2 (l.) tbsps. sugar.

2 eggs.

1/2 tsp. vanilla.

Put the milk on to boil, beat the yolks and sugar till very light; add

them to the boiling milk; stir over the fire until creamy. Have the

whites beaten, pour over them the boiling mixture; beat thoroughly and

serve at once.

* * * * *

CAKE.

There are practically two kinds of cake, that made with butter, and

cake made without butter. When these two methods are understood, cake

making becomes easy. A few simple rules must govern all cake making.

1st. Regulate the heat. Cakes without butter require a quick oven;

with butter, a moderate oven. 2nd. Beat whites and yolks separately.

3rd. Beat butter and sugar to a cream. 4th. Add the whites last. 5th.

Currants should be cleaned, washed and dried and floured (to which

flour some of the baking powder should be added). 6th. Add the milk or

water gradually. 7th. Sift the flour before measuring. 8th. 2 level

tsps. of baking powder are equal to 1/2 tsp. soda and 1 tsp. cream of

tartar. 9th. When looking at a cake while baking, do it quickly and

without jarring the stove. 10th. To find out if it is baked, run a

broom straw through the centre, if no dough adheres the cake is done.

11th. If browning too quickly, cover with brown paper and reduce the

heat gradually. This is usually necessary in baking fruit cake. 12th.

Mix cake in an earthen bowl, never in tin. 13th. Soda, cream of

tartar, and baking powder should be crushed and sifted with the flour.

Always attend to the fire before beginning to make cake. Coarse

granulated sugar makes a coarse, heavy cake. If cake browns before

rising the oven is too hot. When it rises in the centre and cracks

open it is too stiff with flour. It should rise first round the edge,

then in the middle and remain level.

GINGERBREAD.

1 cup molasses.

2 tbsps. butter.

1 tsp. ginger.

1 pint flour.

1/2 cup sour milk.

1 tsp. soda.

1 egg.

Put the molasses and butter in a pan and set on the stove. When the

mixture boils up add the soda and ginger, and take from the fire

immediately. Add the milk, the well-beaten egg and the flour, beat

well. Bake in a shallow cake pan in a rather quick oven for 20

minutes.

SPICE CAKE.

1/4 cup butter.

1/2 cup molasses.

1/2 cup sour milk.

1/2 ssp. salt.

1/2 tsp. soda.

The juice and rind of 1/2 lemon.

1/2 cup sugar.

2-1/2 cups flour.

1/2 tsp. ginger.

1 tsp. cinnamon.

1/4 nutmeg, grated.

1 egg.

Beat the butter to a cream. Gradually beat into it the sugar, then the

spice and lemon, next the molasses. Now dissolve the soda in one tbsp.

cold water and stir it into the sour milk; add this, and the egg well

beaten, to the other ingredients. Lastly add the flour, and beat

briskly for 1/2 minute. Pour into a well buttered pan and bake in a

moderate oven for about 50 minutes.

SPONGE CAKE.

3 eggs.

2/3 cup flour.

2/3 cup pulverized sugar.

The grated rind and juice of 1/2 lemon.

Beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar until very light, now add the

juice and rind of the lemon and half the flour; beat the whites to a

very stiff froth, add the remainder of the flour and the whites

alternately, stirring lightly, pour into a greased cake pan. Bake in a

quick oven from 25 to 30 minutes.

ROLL JELLY CAKE.

2 eggs.

1 cup sugar.

1-1/2 cup flour.

1/2 tsp. salt.

1 cup sweet milk.

3 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

Beat the eggs separately till very light, then beat them together, add

the sugar, then the milk gradually, then the flour in which the salt

and baking powder have been mixed. Spread very thin on long shallow

pans. Spread with jelly while warm and roll up.

SEED CAKE.

1 cup butter.

1 cup milk.

2 tsps. caraway seeds.

3 tsps. baking powder.

1-1/2 cup sugar.

3 eggs.

3 cups flour.

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then the yolks of the eggs,

then the seeds; sift the baking powder with the flour; add the flour

and milk alternately a little at a time, lastly the whites which have

been beaten stiff and dry; bake from 40 to 50 minutes.

COOKIES (PLAIN).

1/2 cup butter.

1/4 cup milk.

2 even tsps. baking powder.

1 cup sugar.

1 egg.

Flour to roll out thin.

Cream the butter, add the sugar, milk, egg beaten lightly, and the

baking powder mixed with two cups of flour, then enough more flour to

roll out. Roll a little at a time. Cut out. Bake about 10 minutes.

LAYER CAKE.

1/2 cup butter.

1 cup sugar.

2-1/2 cups flour.

3 eggs.

2/3 cup milk.

4 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the yolks of the eggs

gradually; then the flour and milk alternately (sifting the baking

powder with the flour), add the well-beaten whites last. Bake in 3

tins in a moderate oven about 15 minutes. (Flavoring has been omitted

in this recipe as the cake is more delicate by allowing the filling to

provide the flavor.)

PLAIN FRUIT CAKE.

3 eggs.

1 cup milk.

1 oz. candied lemon.

4 (l.) tsps. baking powder.

2/3 cup butter.

3 (l.) cups flour.

1 cup raisins.

Mix as directed in preceding recipe, only mixing the fruit with the

flour and baking powder.

ICING.

Whites of 2 eggs.

1/2 lb. powdered sugar.

1 tsp. of lemon juice.

Have the material very cold. Break the eggs carefully, beat the whites

until frothy (not stiff); sift the sugar in gradually, beating all the

while; add the lemon juice and continue beating until fine and white,

and stiff enough to stand alone. Keep in a cool place, when using,

spread with a knife dipped in cold water. If used for ornamenting

press through a tube. It may be divided and different colorings added.

BOILED ICING.

1 cup granulated sugar.

1/3 cup boiling water.

1/4 tsp. cream of tartar.

White of 1 egg.

Boil the sugar and water together until it hangs from the spoon. Beat

the egg to a stiff froth, add the cream of tartar, then pour on the

syrup, beating all the while. Beat until cold and thick.

* * * * *

PASTRY.

Pastry, unless light and tender, should never be eaten; even then it

should be avoided by people with poor digestion. There are so many

food preparations superior to pastry in both nutritive value and cost

of time and material, that it will be wise to give it a very secondary

place in the training of a culinary artist. However, as it is still a

popular fancy with many, we may as well make the best of it. Butter is

more wholesome in pastry than lard, although the latter makes a light

crust. In order to secure satisfactory results in pastry

making--especially puff pastry--three things should be observed: (1)

have all the materials cold; (2) use as little liquid as possible; (3)

handle lightly and quickly. Pastry should be very cold when it is put

into the oven. Have the oven very hot.

PUFF PASTE.

1 lb. flour.

1 lb. butter.

Enough ice water to make into a very stiff dough.