TETUAN, COAST OF MOROCCO, AFRICA, _February 15, 1860_.
After a short sojourn in the French capital, I took the rail for
Marseilles. The distance of five hundred miles we made in twenty hours,
in comfortable cars, warmed by shallow metallic vessels filled with hot
water, and placed under the feet. This was even shorter time than two
years since, when I passed over the same road to embark for Algeria.
It is now nearly four months since the declaration of war on the
part of the Spaniards, who at vast expense have landed an army of
thirty-five thousand men upon the coast of Morocco. Tangiers being well
fortified, although blockaded, they could only land at Ceuta, a point
occupied by them for convicts. A distance of six leagues then had to
be made by land along the coast to the small river Tetuan, where they
encamped in presence of the Moors, who occupied the heights and the
city of Tetuan, which is upon an eminence six miles from the coast.
A great battle was fought, and finally the city was besieged. The
Moors in great numbers occupied the heights, and coming down in masses
from the mountains headed by the brothers of the emperor of Morocco,
harassed and attacked the Spaniards. They were, however, dislodged and
cut up by the latter, who report in killed and wounded two thousand of
the enemy and two hundred of their own; but verbal reports here say
they lost one thousand in killed and wounded. The latter were sent away
immediately to the hospitals of Malaga and Cadiz. Finding resistance
useless, orders were given to evacuate the city, and the Moors fled in
every direction in the mountains, but the Jews, a much oppressed race,
remain, as also do the old and disabled Moors.
The city, which contained a population of some thirty thousand, now
presents a strange aspect, the narrow streets being filled with
soldiery, mules, and donkeys. The Jews have suffered much from pillage
at the hands of the Moors and Kabyles of the Riff, who are not unlike
their pirate associates, and the doors of a great number of houses are
still seen broken open by these marauders, who regarded neither friend
nor foe. The Israelites are rejoiced at the result, as such was the
intolerance of the Mussulmans that they were obliged to take off their
shoes in approaching a mosque.
Subscriptions have been made in different countries for the Jews
who are at Gibraltar, who have been obliged to abandon the ports of
Morocco. An agent has just arrived here with supplies for the sufferers
in Tetuan, who stand much in need.
I scarcely know how to describe the singular scene that presents
itself. On entering the roadstead I counted some forty-five steamers
of different nations, including several Spanish war vessels, besides
a large number of small sailing vessels, also several tugs for the
purpose of discharging and towing, while feluccas, scows, and small
boats loaded with merchandise and munitions of war were scattered about
in the mouth of the river to the landing place near the square tower
or citadel. The beach and quays are covered with cannon, bombs, balls,
wheels for mounting, scores of pipes of red wine, boxes, bales and
packages of all kinds for the supply of the army, and for venders and
speculators in and around the different camps.
The first camp presented itself near the shore, quite in repose.
Horses, mules, and donkeys were feeding. The soldiers were preparing
their dinner over little fires of sticks, and from the little tents of
the Spanish venders were heard the cries of oranges, cigars, liquors,
and every conceivable article which can be disposed of to the troops.
A temporary fort had been thrown up of earthwork and the branches of
the cactus, which attains the height of a small tree in this climate,
and cannon were planted at the angles and other openings to prevent
surprise. Little tents for the soldiery, for six each, were spread upon
the ground; those of the officers are of larger dimensions, and more
comfortable.
As we proceeded further, martial music was heard in the distance,
and an army of horsemen with lances came up followed by infantry and
cavalry. Four thousand fresh troops had just arrived, and the road
was lined with mules and horses, already jaded out with hard service,
carrying provisions to the camps. Here and there was lying a poor
animal who had drawn his last breath, while disabled Moorish cannon and
balls were scattered about.
To the right and left the encampments were seen, and the music of bands
was heard, mingling with the national airs of the Spanish soldiers, who
appear happy, notwithstanding the fatigue of the campaign in an enemy’s
country during a rainy season, with the accompaniment of cholera, which
has cost the lives of many thousands. The weather is now, however, dry,
and favorable to the health of the troops.
The orange gardens, with the olive and other trees, look fresh in
the valleys, which extend for miles around, and the well whitewashed
walls of the city glisten in the sun’s rays, so that one who was
not familiar with Mussulman cities and structures would imagine its
contents beautiful. The camp of Gen. O’Donnell is placed upon a plateau
near the entrance, and over the fortified archway is already inscribed
“_Puerta de la Reyna_,” or Queen’s Gate.
As soon as the entrance is effected, one finds the streets narrow and
dirty. The houses are one and two stories high, with small courts in
the centre and lodging rooms above. Fountains abound, as in all Moorish
cities, for the washing of the feet of the faithful before entering
the mosques. The principal mosque upon the great square is already
occupied by the cross, and the burning wax candles beside the Virgin,
in singular contrast with the suspended ostrich eggs usual in Mussulman
temples.
Scarcely any accommodations can be found for strangers at any price,
and such as can be found at enormous prices, remind me of California
in its early days. Fortunately our steamer is supplied with all the
comforts and conveniences, and we may go and come when we please.
The presumption is that the Moors will now sue for peace, which Spain
will probably be glad to accept, as it will be difficult to penetrate
a country where several millions of barbarians are found. If report
tells the truth, the resources of the Emperor of Morocco in treasure
are enormous, the result of hoarding from his ancestry down, and if the
Spaniards can extract a few millions towards the expenses of the war,
they will relieve themselves of a heavy burden, and put an amount of
gold and silver in circulation now lying idle.
The Spaniards have landed already rails and ties for a short railroad
for the transport of heavy war material to the city. They have also
commenced a telegraph, probably for communication with Madrid, or
to give the Moors an idea of European civilization. It struck me as
curious that they should do in Africa what they have been so backward
in accomplishing in their own country.