PIATIGORSK, CIRCASSIA, _June 12, 1858_.
I must give you some details of the trip to this place, across the
Circassian mountains, and over the fortified road dividing the
territory of Schamyl; to the right coming up towards the Caspian Sea
and the Circassians, and on the left bordering on the Black Sea.
We left the scorching city at five P.M., and were glad to
escape the intense heat. We made two stations, thirty-four wersts, when
horses were not forthcoming until early the next morning. The station
was one of the most miserable on the route, and between filth and
vermin we were glad to leave at four A.M.
My companion, a Georgian captain in the Russian service, and myself
occupied a Tarantas, a wagon of the country, with a carriage body
mounted on long poles, the servant in front.
At seven o’clock we discovered that the baggage had been cut away from
the rear of the vehicle, entailing considerable loss to my companion.
My own baggage was fortunately in front. Information was given to the
officer in command at the next village to send Cossacks in pursuit of
the offenders. The wheels of our vehicle showed signs of weakness, and
the smith’s services were called to cut and renew the tires, much to
his advantage, as those who travel in carriages are expected to pay.
Towards sunset of the second day we commenced the ascent of the
mountains over a miserably rocky road, at a snail’s pace, with eight
yoke of oxen, and arrived at a station where the night was passed. It
was a lovely evening, pleasantly cool, and the snow-capped peaks of the
mountains of El Brus and Casbeck, from fourteen thousand to sixteen
thousand feet high, by the light of a full moon, were magnificent to
gaze upon.
An early start, with relays of horses at each station, carried us over
the zigzag winding roads, which are without parapet walls. The drivers
are exceedingly expert in the management of their three horses abreast,
coursing along the margin of yawning precipices, hundreds of feet in
depth. The mountain torrents and the remains of avalanches did not
retard our progress. The season, however, favored us, as travellers are
sometimes detained for weeks.
The wild and savage appearance of the country, the rudely constructed
roads, the primitive costume of the people, who are partly dressed in
skins, and nearly all armed, the fortified passes, the galleries in the
rock, the narrow defiles occupied by the Russian soldiery, to prevent
the attacks of the Circassians, and the feeling that you are liable
to be arrested and carried into captivity, or shot by them, kept up a
different state of feeling than that caused by ordinary travel.
We passed several fortresses well provided with soldiers, arms, and
ammunition, to protect the road. The men are employed in constructing
or repairing the route, as the Russian soldier performs the most menial
service, and is not exempt until after twenty-five years. The term is,
however, reduced under the present emperor. His pay and supplies are a
mere bagatelle, and he is a machine, obeying the will of his officer.
The road is now considered tolerably safe, with the exception of the
stations where a ball may be sent through the unsuspecting traveller.
The Russian troops are gradually hemming in Schamyl on one side, and
the Circassians on the other. Both are Mussulman races, but have
little intercourse, as Schamyl is the leader of a fanatical people
who repose all confidence in their chief. The pasturage and tillage
grounds have been taken from them, and they are now more closely lodged
in the fastnesses of the mountains, and with less means of life. The
Circassians on the Black Sea can obtain contraband supplies from
Turkey, via Trebizond, and can dispose of their children to advantage,
the girls looking forward with pleasure to the sale and prospect of
occupying an important position in the harems.
During the war of the allies, Schamyl made a descent when least
expected, and carried off two Georgian princesses and their children.
They suffered much from cold in the mountains, although well treated.
The ransom demanded by the robber chief was his son, who was taken by
the Russians when eight years old, and sent to St. Petersburg for his
education, besides eight millions of roubles. They not knowing the
value of money, ten ox-carts loaded with small coins were forwarded,
with his unwilling son, now grown to manhood in civilized society, and
the exchange was made, much to the satisfaction of distressed families
and friends.
The Circassians are most dexterous horsemen, and fond of adventure
among themselves. A man who has not shown acts of daring is little
considered; while if he can bring down the enemy, or take him
captive in order to obtain a ransom, he has done acts worthy of the
consideration of the people. One year since, in the place from which
I write, the little son of a physician was picked up by a mounted
Circassian, and carried out of sight before the alarm was fully given.
A ransom of a thousand roubles was demanded, but the government is
opposed to the payment of tribute, and he is still among them.
We arrived the third night at Vlada Kaukas, prettily situated upon a
rapid river, or mountain torrent, a pleasant town of Russian creation,
the residence of the officials of the district, civil and military,
containing the barracks, hospitals, &c. The houses are built of stone,
wood, and unburnt bricks, many covered with iron roofs, painted green,
as indeed are almost all the Russian churches, which produces a
cheering effect after seeing nothing but straw roofs in the interior.
We could here renew our supplies, as it must be remembered nothing can
be obtained to eat or drink on the road in these wild countries. The
stations are furnished with a few chairs, or wooden sofas, to pass the
night upon, and a Semivar, or tea machine for hot water, with which to
prepare your own tea, can always be obtained. All other appliances for
sleeping, and to support life, you must carry with you, or starve.
At the place named we were detained one day waiting for horses, as
the commanding officer had ordered all the post horses for the use of
Cossacks, who were in hot pursuit of the enemy, who had committed some
depredations.
We were glad to have passed the seat of difficulty in good time. We
were not allowed to travel at night, and the whole line upon the
steppes, some two hundred wersts, was occupied, up to our arrival
at this place, by Cossack sentinels at intervals of a few wersts,
generally three together, mounted upon a platform erected upon four
poles adjoining their cabins. Each is furnished with a ladder to ascend
by, and a straw cover to protect the men from wind and rain. Mounds of
earth are also often thrown up as observatories, and their horses are
always saddled and bridled ready to pursue the enemy.
Huge stone crucifixes point out the spots where the unfortunate Cossack
peasants, sent down for colonization and cultivation of the soil, have
been killed.
Some of the Circassians have submitted to Russian rule, and occupy
their villages unmolested. A few reside in the Russian towns,
consequently they know all that is occurring, and act as spies when
necessary. They are a fine-looking race of people, and their costume
is picturesque. I have heard Russian officers who have known them
personally say, that if they had their way they would not wage war
against them, while others go for extermination.
Circassia is to Russia, what Algeria is to France--a military school,
a means of patronage for officials, and a source for decorations and
honors, at the expense of the empire in general.
On the main road towards Staverpool, at the little town of Gorgiesk,
fairs are held twice a year for general supplies.
A detour of thirty-four wersts brought me to this place. Within a
circuit of forty wersts are found hot and cold, sulphur, iron, salt
and soda springs. I design visiting all of them, and will speak of
their qualities in my next. This place derives its name, Piatigorsk,
from five small picturesque mountains within sight. It is romantically
situated, and may be made a lovely spot.
There are six sources of hot and cold sulphur water, and the government
has expended large sums in erecting baths and laying out the grounds
in imitation of the Germans; but the distances are so immense, the bad
roads and want of accommodations so great, that the Russians prefer
going to Germany, now they can have passports. There are some four
hundred here, where two thousand might be accommodated with private
lodgings. I am the only foreigner here. The military band plays morning
and evening, and the little Russian boys and girls, profit in waltzing
and dancing upon the gravelled walks under the shade trees, to the
delight of mothers and governesses.