TIFLIS, CAPITAL OF GEORGIA, _June 6, 1858_.
From Yalta, I embarked for Theodosie and Kertch, upon the Straits of
Azoff. The former place is designated as the terminus of the railroad
from Moscow, as its harbor never freezes.
Kertch was partly burned by the allies during the war. Its population
is some fifteen thousand. It has a good harbor for vessels bound either
for ports in the Black Sea, or going up the Sea of Azoff for cargoes of
grain. There were some fifty sail of all kinds at anchor.
In company with the French and English consuls I rode some fifteen
miles to the Sea of Azoff, visiting also some extensive Tumuli, or
mounds for cemeteries, in which have been found very interesting
relics, supposed to be from the reign of king Mithridates, 132 years
before Christ. They are quite similar to those I once found in Upsal,
in Sweden. The masonry is in a perfect state of preservation. The
prairie country extends for miles about the city, and hares are found
in great abundance. Our horses and dogs gave them a fine chase.
I took a steamer at Kertch for the Asiatic side of the Black Sea,
passing along the Circassian coast with its towering snow-capped
mountains. The small ports or roadsteads are occupied by the Russian
military, which cannot get a foothold in the interior.
Heavy weather prevented our arrival at Soukum Kale until the second
day. It is a bad roadstead, but beautifully situated amid the greenest
and most luxuriant vegetation, reminding me of the West Indies or
the coast of Venezuela, by its prolific growth. The little colony
being among roses and acacias in full bloom, the air is odoriferous
with perfume. The inhabitants are, however, virtually imprisoned, the
heights being occupied by barracks, and troops who cannot go beyond a
certain limit.
The villages of the Abasiens are seen in the distance, and we would
fain have taken horses for a ride thither, but were warned not to walk
even, beyond a certain point, under the penalty of a ball from the
enemy. Notwithstanding the chief of the tribe is friendly and under pay
from the Russian government, and we saw him and his harem on board of a
steamer put at his disposal, still his people are not reliable, and the
Russians cannot penetrate the country, but are obliged to make a detour
by Redout Kale, where we landed the following day.
It is bad, like all the other roadsteads along the coast, and
frequently the semi-monthly steamers cannot land, and passengers are
obliged to wait a month to embark. The breakers were rolling strongly,
but we landed at the mouth of the little river Orion, at the miserable
town, among such a rough, bandit-looking race as one seldom sees.
The captain of the post was very civil, and invited my companion and
myself, to dine and occupy part of his miserable quarters, until we
could lay in a stock of provisions and supplies for voyage in the
interior.
I had imagined and was prepared for a rough time in visiting these
regions, but the reality far exceeded my expectations. A Russian
officer, attached to the General’s staff of the Circassian army,
accompanied me, and was provided with a Poderozna, or authority for
horses and escort. He came directly from St. Petersburg, and found
himself equally disappointed.
We were provided with saddle horses for ourselves and others for
our luggage, and supplied with Cossack guides well armed. We made
seventy-two wersts in this manner, passing through a lovely country,
among trees of great growth and freshness, and woods in places filled
with wild grape-vines. There are no general roads, and we travelled
mostly by paths.
Our first night was passed under the roof of an old peasant, with his
wife, and a little boy and girl in ragged clothes, as our companions.
The one-roomed hut was thatched with straw, and had an opening in the
side for the escape of the smoke from a fire built on the earth floor
in the centre. A few eggs roasted in the cinders were all that could be
procured, with the exception of a small kettle to boil our tea water
in, and a few bundles of straw upon which to spread our blankets. We
had forgotten candles in our list of supplies, and I was quite amused
at the manner in which the deficiency was supplied. The woman had some
yellow wax, and tore off a strip of her shawl to make the wick, upon
which it was twisted.
When we arrived at the village of Marvan we procured post horses over
natural roads, in the rudest vehicle in the world, upon seats made of
hay, with ropes stretched across.
The country is diversified, consisting of valleys, prairies, and
mountains. The mountain roads have been made by the Russian troops, who
are found throughout the country, but are miserably made and dangerous.
Many small and rapid streams are crossed. Nature in her primeval state
presents many beautiful views. The distant Circassian mountains covered
with snow, and the plains, remind me of California and Oregon.
Agriculture is of the most primitive kind. Wooden ploughs drawn by
eight yoke of oxen are used. Cattle and horses are seen in abundance,
but the people have no idea of comfort or luxury. Their caps are of
sheepskin, the curled woolly side out. They carry from twelve to
sixteen bone or reed cartouche boxes sewed on, or attached to the
breast of the dress, and with their long carabines on the back, and
cutlasses at the side, are always prepared for an attack of the enemy.
This has from long use become the national costume.
The villages more remote from the coast are almost entirely under
ground. The huts have the front part raised to the height of half a
story, and the roofs run back to a level with the ground, covered with
sod and earth; and there they burrow, surrounded by a beautiful and
fertile country, capable of producing everything, but still in a state
of semi-barbarism.
We were five days making the distance. The stations where horses are
changed are mostly miserable affairs--infinitely worse than in the
north of Russia, and exceedingly filthy. There are some exceptions,
where supplies can be procured. One who makes this journey is called
upon to suffer privations and fatigues of all kinds, and any one but a
Russian or an old traveller would be disheartened at the outset. This
season of the year is the most favorable, and the voyage to this place
is now accomplished.
This city is curious to visit in many particulars. It has a population
of sixty thousand, composed of a great variety of races, Armenians,
Persians, Georgians, Turks, Jews, Russian military, and some twelve
hundred officers, who are not permitted to go out without their swords,
as the whole country is in a state of war with the Circassians.
Prince Bariatanski is the Viceroy, and has supreme power. There are
some three hundred thousand troops scattered over this whole territory,
to defend the mountain passes from the attacks of Schamyl and the
Circassians, and to keep open the communication with the North and the
Caspian Sea.
The city is upon the banks of a rapid river or torrent, and is
surrounded by high hills, which renders it now very hot. There is
a strange compound of civilization and barbarism here. There is a
handsome theatre, bazaars, the palace and garden of the Viceroy and of
the former King, now occupied by his son, a fine botanical garden newly
laid out, well built bridges and houses for officials, and a colony of
Germans living neatly and comfortably, while beside them are the early
inhabitants of the country, whose huts are scarcely above the surface,
and who live among fleas and filth.
Droskies and other fine carriages and horses, extravagance in the dress
of the females, and beautiful Georgian ladies of the upper classes,
with their picturesque head-dresses, abound.
Russian gold and silver flows like water; a hundred millions of rubles
are expended yearly to keep up the war, which has lasted now thirty
years, and is still without much prospect of a close.
This former capital of the Georgian kings, which is some three hundred
and fifty wersts in the interior, was abandoned to the Russians about
the beginning of the present century; the people finding themselves
no longer able to resist the attacks of the Persians, Turks, and
Armenians, who ravaged the country and carried off the women and
children as slaves.
The commandant of the city, who speaks Russian, German, and French,
has shown me many civilities. The only consuls here are the French and
Persian; to the former I am also indebted. The hotels are execrable.
The French adventurers have succeeded well in the introduction of Paris
fineries, as money has but little value; comparing favorably with
California in its infancy.
All advise me to pass up through the Circassian mountains to the
north, as the weather is now hot, and there is less danger and delay
from avalanches, and the passes are less infested by bandits. I shall
probably go in company with a Russian officer, and have an escort when
necessary.