SAN FRANCISCO, _May 20, 1851_.
On my return to this city from Oregon, a scene of desolation presented
itself. The boatman who brought me and an elderly gentleman ashore,
who had lost property largely, as also friends who had perished in
the flames, was ordered to land us on the beach near a hotel which
had escaped, as I knew not whether the house where I left my effects
was saved; but fortune had favored me once again, for the second time
in this voyage--the first being in the destruction of the St. Charles
hotel, in New Orleans. As we guided our boat between the blackened
piles and charred dock timbers, with scarcely a landmark for a circuit
of acres, which had so recently been covered with stores filled with
merchandise, the heart sickened at the sight, and the old man, with his
grey locks, sobbed aloud and wept, and leaned upon me for support. I
took my way up the street, and discovered with satisfaction that I had
a home, although thousands were scattered, many without a shelter or a
change of clothing. I found the outbuildings and fences burned off the
lot, but a change of wind and great efforts had saved our house. You
have before this had full particulars of the destruction of property in
this, the greatest conflagration that the city has ever experienced,
and one which will cause distress and immense loss to many in the
Atlantic States. I have never yet found a people who meet disaster with
so much fortitude, and who possess the same recuperative faculties.
While the ruins are still smoking, some of the most business streets
are being rebuilt, and the rapidity with which the work progresses
is magical. The buildings now constructing being of wood and of frail
material, are soon erected; and many house-frames were in the market,
the remains of former speculations, which enables the builders to
advance rapidly. The activity of the workman is exhausting; and as the
rainy season has passed, many places are occupied with goods while the
roofs are not fully covered, and fortunately the store ships in harbor
contained abundant supplies to recommence business.
The temporary buildings must give way in time to fire-proof structures,
otherwise another conflagration must be the result, as the winds are
high from the north-west during the summer, and calculated to sweep
the flames towards the business streets, wharves, and shipping. It was
a singular fact that the fire should have occurred on the anniversary
of the disaster of last year, and many persons fear the torch of the
incendiary on the 14th of next month, that being the date of the second
misfortune the last summer. The citizens are now enrolling themselves
as a special night patrol.
From early morn until night is now heard the constant serenade of
the saw and hammer of the carpenter, and the trowel of the mason.
Many who have lost their all, retire in disgust; others start for the
mines; others, even after the third or fourth visitation, if they
have anything left, try it again, believing that the same elements of
prosperity still exist in the country. It is a harvest for laborers and
mechanics, and attracts many from other points about the country. The
former obtain six dollars per day, while carpenters and painters have
ten dollars per day.
I attended yesterday the funeral of a worthy young man who lost his
life from over-exertion at the fire, and to-day looked at the ruins of
an iron building, with the only survivor out of six who were within
during the fire, and who made his escape by the scuttle and passed over
the burning roofs of the adjoining buildings, while his brother and the
remainder of the party were roasted alive. The streets, being planked,
added fuel to the flames, and made it difficult for persons to escape.
We have had a shock of an earthquake as a closing scene; it was felt
so sensibly as to rattle the crockery of the ladies in the houses, but
more positively down the coast, sufficiently there to remind one in a
slight degree of Naples and Messina.
The smoke rising from the charred timbers, with the dust and ashes
carried by the high cool winds which prevail every evening, makes the
climate at present very disagreeable, particularly to those affected
with any bronchial difficulty. I shall avail myself of the advantage of
a trip down the valley of San Josè, called the Garden of California,
where I will have an opportunity of visiting another great source of
wealth to the country, the Quicksilver Mines.