OREGON TERRITORY, _May 5, 1851_.
By the powerful agency of ocean and river steamers, without
disparagement to horse and mule force, I find myself transported from
the southern mines of California, a distance of some nine hundred
miles, and can scarcely realize that I am now writing in a log cabin of
the Upper Willamette Valley, in which the first legislative committee
of nine persons were sworn in office by the missionary (Rev. Jason Lee)
after their election by a mass meeting of the early emigrants, in 1846,
to decide if laws should be enacted for the territory. The interpreter,
Dr. Newell, who is present, drove the first pair of oxen across the
plains, and now occupies his claim of a mile square, or six hundred and
forty acres.
After returning from the mines via Stockton, to San Francisco, I
embarked with the ocean steamer Columbia for Astoria, and had the
pleasure of meeting with an old friend, in the person of the Hon.
Thomas Nelson, from Peekskill, recently appointed Chief Justice of
Oregon, in company with the Surveyor General, J.B. Preston, and several
ladies; among the number were five who came out from the States as
school teachers, under the auspices of the Hon. Mr. Thurston, Delegate
to Congress, who died at Acapulco, after having crossed the isthmus,
and whose death creates a great sensation in the territory. He was a
candidate for Member of Congress for the next term, against Gen. Lane,
who now meets no opposition. We had an agreeable passage to the mouth
of the Columbia, whose far-famed breakers troubled us but little, the
weather being favorable. Cape Disappointment at the north, and Point
Adams at the south, with its eight-mile entrance, scarcely showed us
where lie hidden the frightful sand banks which have so long been the
terror of the mariner.
Another hour brought us to Astoria, which lies under the mountain range
with a dense forest in the rear, and is a miserable town, without
comfort or convenience, just the reverse in short of what you would
expect from the name of its founder, and the writings of Washington
Irving. We found here a steamer which carried us to Vancouver, a
distance of one hundred and ten miles up the Columbia, the river
narrowing from Astoria, as you proceed up stream, down to a mile in
width, and sometimes less. The shores are mostly high lands, and are
covered with impenetrable forests of firs of the most gigantic growth.
Vancouver is the military post, and we found here the Mounted Rifle
Regiment; it is in a most desirable position, situated upon a beautiful
rising plain in an old settled part of the country, the establishments
of the Hudson Bay Company being located here, and well worth visiting.
They are in an immense inclosure, picketed with piles thirty feet in
height, and containing several acres, with block-houses and towers
fortified, and inside are immense store-houses for goods, and the
dwellings of the governor and employees. Six miles below this point is
the mouth of the Willamette, which river we ascended twelve miles to
Portland, nearly the head of navigation for three-masted vessels, where
we take whale boats or bateaux to proceed to Oregon City, which lies
below the falls.
We chartered a boat with six Indian oarsmen, and, as it had a windlass
in the bow, and an immense coil of rope to fasten to the trees for
hauling up the rapids, we proceeded well until night overtook us within
two miles of the town, where the rush of water was too much for us.
After making ineffectual efforts until nine o’clock, we abandoned
all hope until morning unless we should find shelter in a log-cabin,
there being one, we were told, on that side of the Clackamas river.
We divided our party of gentlemen, leaving enough for the protection
of eight ladies, and commenced pioneering through the dense forest,
without the aid of a lantern, until we discovered the timber burning
in clearing up the land, and found the log cabin, but our only success
was the borrowing of a dug-out to cross the Clackamas and to try to get
to town to procure whale boats. Judge Nelson, our guide, and myself
squatted in the bottom of this egg-shell canoe, and were paddled across
this turbulent stream. We got to town about midnight, worn down with
fatigue, our boots and clothes torn from contact with fallen logs, and
from crossing ravines; but we were too late to obtain assistance until
morning, so the party were obliged to camp in the open boat. Having
been recommended to Gen. Gaines, a noble-hearted Kentuckian, who has
seen service in Mexico, now Governor of the Territory, I was invited
to join him and meet the commissioners now in treaty with the Indians.
Our route of twenty-five miles through dense forests, ravines, and
cane-brakes, and over prairies and streams, was intensely exciting,
and to one who had not had some experience in California and Texas,
it would have been startling. I found here three tribes of Indians
encamped upon the plain, and was not a little amused by their ball
plays, their war and other dances around the camp fires in the evening,
and their gambling games which are sometimes kept up noisily all night.
The Yam Hill and Lukamuke bands of the Callapooya tribes are rapidly
diminishing in numbers by disease. The Molalla tribe are mostly
horsemen and warriors, and are a fine-looking race. The commissioners
have just succeeded in effecting treaties with two of the bands, which
I was called upon to witness; and it was an interesting sight to
see Governor Gaines, Judge Spencer, and Colonel Allen, opposite the
three Indian chiefs belonging to each tribe, with the interpreter and
secretary, in grave council, while in the interior of the log cabin and
around the door were collected many of the tribe, anxiously zealous of
their rights, and suspicious lest any one band should get more than the
other. The commissary distributes daily the flesh of a bullock, with
rations of potatoes, flour, and salt, and the camp fires are constantly
smoking. Their horses are hobbled and grazing on the prairie and in the
woods; occasionally they mount them, and dash over the plain with the
speed of the wind. The distribution of blankets, calicoes, and various
articles, will take place when they leave. By the treaties for sale of
lands and removals, they are provided with agricultural implements,
supplies of provisions and clothing, horses, and in some cases, log
houses instead of tents which they now occupy. This is to continue for
twenty years, which is liberal on the part of the government.
The French prairies, a few miles from here, are mostly settled by
French Canadians, who were the early settlers, having been engaged in
trapping. I found one who was with the first expedition of Astor, some
forty years since, and who has now his family of half-breeds, and his
mile square of land.
From this point we have travelled in the country on the opposite side
of the river, and from the summits of the highest hills had some
magnificent views of the mountains of St Helena, Hood, and Rainer,
eternally covered with snow, and of the immense forest of firs and
pines, intervening with prairie land, the whole forming a panorama of
surpassing wildness and beauty.