PEST, HUNGARY, _July 2, 1841_.
My last letter was from Vienna, which city we left a few days since for
the capital of Hungary. We took a steamer on the Danube, about three
miles from Vienna, and descended to Presburg, about fifty miles. The
navigation of this part of the Danube is difficult, owing to the shoals
and rapidity of the currents. On the route we passed the memorable
battle-ground of Wagram. Traces of the works of Napoleon’s fortified
camp on the island of Lobau, still remain. This narrow island--two
and one-third miles long, and three-quarters of a mile broad--it is
said contained one hundred and fifty thousand foot and thirty thousand
horse, and seven hundred pieces of cannon, concentrated from all parts
of Europe. We also passed the villages of Aspern and Essling, the
scene of a memorable engagement in 1809, when the Austrians, under
the Archduke Charles, gained a temporary but important advantage over
Napoleon. Aspern was reduced to ruins; and scarcely any traces now
remain of it; save the marks of cannon and shot in the walls of the
churchyard.
We soon arrived at Presburg, the place of coronation of the king of
Hungary, with a population of forty thousand, pleasantly situated on
the Danube. The most conspicuous edifice to be seen here is the royal
palace on the hill above the city. It was here that Maria Theresa, the
youthful queen, at the commencement of her reign, when attacked on
all sides, appeared in deep mourning, with the cross of St. Stephen
in her hand, and girt with his sword, and delivered a speech, stating
the disastrous condition of her affairs, and throwing herself on the
fidelity of her people. The Hungarians could not resist the appeal, but
in the excitement of feeling voted supplies to carry on the war, and
summoned the wild tribes from the remote quarters of Hungary, to carry
terror to all parts of the continent. Near the city an artificial mound
is pointed out, about forty feet high, called Konigsburgh, to which
every new king of Hungary has heretofore repaired on horseback, after
his coronation, and from its summit made the sign of the cross in the
air with the sword of St. Stephen, and waved it towards the four points
of the compass, signifying thus his intention to protect the land on
all sides.
We visited the Jews’ quarter, where, to the number of seven thousand,
they are inclosed along the slope of the castle hill. They are
restricted to that part of the city. The shores here are connected by a
bridge of boats which rise and fall with the tide. Along the river may
be seen, constantly, barges rudely constructed, mostly flat bottoms,
with produce destined for the Black Sea, and descending rapidly with a
current very like the Mississippi; others ascending, with supplies for
the cities, or with merchandize, and towed by twenty to thirty horses,
which traverse the banks, or up to the middle in water. We repeatedly
passed fleets of water-mills, driven by the current, stretching
obliquely in long lines from the shore into the middle of the river.
They consist of a water-wheel suspended between two large boats moored
in the line of the current; one boat, with a temporary dwelling, used
by the miller. Heretofore, about the only use this mighty river was
applied to, was propelling the mills. Steamers, to a limited extent,
have been introduced within the last twelve years. The scenery along
its banks is rather monotonous until you arrive at the town of Gran,
numbering a population of twelve thousand: here is seen a chain of
hills, the sides of which are planted with vineyards, producing some
of the finest Hungarian wines. The town is celebrated as being the
birthplace of St. Stephen, and for a long time the residence of the
Hungarian monarchs, and was the finest city in Turkey until it was
nearly annihilated by the Turks.
After passing many towers and battlemented walls, all full of interest
as connected with the history of the country, we arrived at this city,
one hundred and eighty-two miles from Vienna.
Buda, the old town on the right bank of the Danube, is the residence of
the Palatine, and seat of government; and Pest on the left, connected
by a bridge of boats one thousand two hundred feet long--both places
containing a population of one hundred and twenty thousand. In 1838,
a sudden rise of the Danube destroyed three thousand eight hundred
dwellings. Since that time the city has improved rapidly, and I was
agreeably surprised to see here, in almost the extreme Eastern part
of Europe, a city that would compare with, and remind me of a new
American city in many respects. The chief languages are the Hungarian
and German, but I find the people in the cities of Hungary apt in the
acquirement of languages. Many of them speak five languages. Their own
is of an oriental character, differing from all European ones, and most
difficult to acquire.
On crossing the bridge of boats, we passed without any demand being
made; but observed that others were stopped, and toll demanded. On
inquiry, the reply from a traveller was, that all persons who had
good coats to their backs were allowed to pass free; while those who,
from their costume, appeared to belong to the class of peasants
of the poorer and lower orders, especially _beggars in rags_,
are compelled to pay. The nobleman in every part of Hungary is free
from all taxes. This is the Hungarian constitution! All the taxes of
Hungary, which contains five millions of people, are wrung from the
hard earnings of the peasants. The nobleman may have millions of acres,
and immense revenues, and does not contribute a dollar. The excuse
offered for this monstrous abuse is, that the peasant has a right in
the land in consequence of his paying taxes, and that the tax is a part
of the rent paid to government instead of to the lord.