little plants called Baby's Breath. It is a low-growing annual forming
compact mounds of green, thickly covered with little pink flowers. It is
one of the most attractive border plants in cultivation. It is also a
charming pot-plant. _G. paniculata_ is a hardy perennial having panicles
of bluish white flowers. This is very graceful, and the flowers are fine
for cutting and for use with sweet pea bouquets or with other choice
flowers. The panicles are so lasting that they may be used in winter
bouquets. The annuals may be planted 1 foot apart; the perennials 3
feet. Both are readily grown from seed, and bloom the first year.
HARDY. A relative term, used to denote a plant which endures the climate
(particularly the winter climate) of a given place. Half-hardy plants
are those which withstand some frost or uncongenial conditions, but will
not endure the severity of the climate. Tender plants are those which
are injured by light frosts.
HEDGES. Hedges are much less used in this country than in Europe, and
for several reasons. Our climate is dry, and most Hedges do not thrive
so well here as there; labor is high-priced, and the trimming is
therefore likely to be neglected; our farms are so large that much
fencing is required; timber and wire are cheaper than live Hedges.
However, they are used with good effects about the home grounds. In
order to secure a good Hedge, it is necessary to have a thoroughly
well-prepared, deep soil, to set the plants close, and to shear them at
least twice every year. For evergreen Hedges the most serviceable plant
in general is the arborvitae. The plants may be set at distances of 1 to
2-1/2 feet apart. For choice Hedges about the grounds, particularly
outside the northern states, some of the retinosporas are very useful.
One of the most satisfactory of all coniferous plants for Hedges is the
common hemlock, which stands shearing well and makes a very soft and
pleasing mass. The plants may be set from 1 to 3 feet apart. Other
plants which hold their leaves and are good for Hedges are the common
box and the privets. Box Hedges are the best for very low borders about
walks and flower beds. The dwarf variety can be kept down to a height of
6 inches to a foot for any number of years. The larger-growing varieties
make excellent Hedges 3, 4 and 5 feet high. The ordinary privet or prim
holds its leaves well into winter in the North. The so-called
Californian privet holds its leaves rather longer and stands better
along the seashore. In the southern states, nothing is better than
_Citrus trifoliata_.
For Hedges of deciduous plants, the most common species are the
buckthorn, the European thorn apple or crataegus, osage orange, and
various kinds of roses.
Hedges should be trimmed the year after they are set, although they
should not be trimmed very closely until they reach the desired or
permanent height. Thereafter they should be sheared into the desired
form in spring or fall. If the plants are allowed to grow for a year or
two without trimming, they lose their lower leaves and become open and
straggly. Osage orange and some other plants are plashed--that is, the
plants are set at an angle rather than perpendicularly, and they are
wired together in such a way that they make an impenetrable barrier just
above the surface of the ground.
HELIANTHUS. See _Sunflower_.
HELICHRYSUM. These are perhaps the most popular of the Everlastings
(which see), having large flowers of several colors. They grow readily
from seed, blooming from July to October. Height 10 inches to 2 feet.
Should be planted or thinned to stand 18 inches apart.
HELIOTROPE. A universal favorite house or border plant, growing readily
from cuttings or seeds, and producing quantities of fragrant violet,
purple or white flowers. One of the best methods of cultivation is to
set a strong plant in the border and peg the new growths to the ground,
where they will root and form a perfect mat, flowering profusely during
the fall months until frost. They will endure the temperature of a
living room well if the room is not too dry. Red spider is a natural
enemy of the Heliotrope, and when once it obtains a foothold is a very
difficult pest to manage, but frequent syringing with water will keep it
in check. A light, rich soil and an abundance of heat are their
requirements. Height 1 to 3 feet. Propagated by cuttings or layers.
HELLEBORE (White Hellebore) is often used for the killing of
currant-worms and other insects (see _Currant_). It is not so poisonous
as the arsenites, and therefore is to be preferred when it is necessary
to apply a poison to nearly ripe fruit. It is usually applied in a
spray with water, at the rate of 1/3 ounce to the gallon. It is harmless
to foliage.
HELLEBORUS, or CHRISTMAS ROSE, may be had in flower at the holidays if
grown in a frame and protected. The usual time for it to flower in the
open border is in March or early April. It will continue to bloom for
many years if grown in a shady place. Roots may be divided as an
increase is wanted. It may also be grown from seeds; and seedlings may
be expected to bloom a year from the spring in which they are sown.
Height 6 to 10 inches.
HEMEROCALLIS, or YELLOW DAY LILY. The advice given under Funkia will
apply to this.
HERBS are plants which die to the ground in winter. They may be annual,
biennial, or perennial. For a list of annual Herbs suitable for the
flower garden, see the articles on _Annuals_ and _Bedding_. A border or
free mass of perennial Herbs is one of the charms of any place. It is
informal, easy of care, and self-sustaining. The large part of the mass
should be composed of common and hardy things--wild or from gardens--and
incidental features may be made of the choicer and rarer exotics. In
most cases, plants look better when judiciously mixed than when planted
one kind in a bed. See _Border_.
HIBISCUS. Annuals and perennials, some of them shrubs, with showy,
hollyhock-like flowers. The annual Hibiscuses are very satisfactory.
They grow quickly and flower freely. The flowers are usually white or
yellow, of large size, and appear from July on. The herbaceous perennial
kinds are amongst the best of hardy border plants, blooming in late
summer and fall. The commonest of these is _Hibiscus Moscheutos_. Give
rich, moist soil.
The greenhouse species are old favorites. They may be used in outdoor
bedding through the summer, lifted in the fall and cut back. Keep rather
dry and dormant during winter. Propagated by cuttings.
HIPPEASTRUM. Consult _Amaryllis_.
[Illustration: Common hoe]
[Illustration: Scarifier]
HOES should be of several patterns if the most efficient work is to be
done in the garden. The ordinary Hoe is adapted only to the rougher and
coarser Hoe-work, such as digging and fitting the ground. For much of
the subsequent tillage, some of the narrow-blade and pointed Hoes are
excellent. For cutting off weeds, the push Hoe or scarifier is
excellent.
[Illustration: Hollyhocks]
HOLLYHOCK. These old garden favorites have been neglected of late years,
primarily because the Hollyhock rust has been so prevalent, destroying
the plants or making the unsightly. The double varieties seem to suffer
the most; and for that reason, and from the fact that the less formal
type is in favor, the single varieties are now the most generally grown.
Their culture is very simple. The seed is usually sown in July or
August, and the plants set where wanted the following spring. They will
bloom the same year in which they are transplanted--the year following
the seed-sowing. New plants should be set every two years, as the old
crowns are apt to rot or die after the first flowering. For rust, spray
early with Bordeaux mixture or ammoniacal carbonate of copper.
HOP, ORNAMENTAL. _Humulus Japonicus_, or the annual HOP, is one of the
best rapid-growing screen vines in cultivation. It makes a dense canopy
of attractive foliage. The leaves are finely cut, and in one variety
variegated with white. This variegated variety is a fine vine for a
porch or front screen, always attracting attention to its markings. This
Hop is propagated by seed sown in boxes in March. When once established,
it will seed itself and start as soon as the soil becomes warm. Set
plants 4 to 8 feet apart. Height 8 to 20 feet.
HORSERADISH. As a kitchen garden vegetable, this is usually planted in
some out-of-the-way spot and a piece of the root dug as often as needed,
the fragments of roots being left in the soil to grow for further use.
This method results in having nothing but tough, stringy roots, very
unlike the product of a properly planted and well cared for bed. The
best roots are those planted in the spring at the time of setting early
cabbage, and dug as late the same fall as the weather will permit. It
becomes, therefore, an annual crop. The roots for planting are small
pieces, from 4 to 6 inches long, obtained when trimming the roots dug in
the fall. These pieces may be packed in sand and stored until wanted the
following spring. In planting, the roots should be set with the upper
end 3 inches below the surface of the ground, using a dibber or
sharp-pointed stick in making the holes. The crop may be planted between
rows of early-sown beets, lettuce or other crop, and given full
possession of the ground when these crops are harvested. Where the
ground is inclined to be stiff or the subsoil is near the surface, the
roots may be set in a slanting position. In fact, many gardeners
practice this method of planting, thinking that the roots make a better
growth and are more uniform in size.
HOTBED. A Hotbed is a frame or box which has artificial heat and a
transparent covering and in which plants are grown. It differs from a
coldframe (which see) in the fact that it has artificial bottom heat.
This bottom heat is usually supplied by fermenting organic matter,
chiefly horse manure, but hot air, hot water or steam conveyed in pipes,
may be employed. It is covered with sash of which the normal or standard
size is 3 feet wide and 6 feet long. These sashes are laid crosswise the
box or frame. The standard size of frame is 6 feet wide and 12 feet
long. A "frame," therefore, accommodates four sashes. However, the frame
may be of any length desired. This frame is ordinarily made of boards,
and the back of it is 3 or 4 inches higher than the front, so that the
sashes slope to the sun. It is customary to have a space of 6 to 10
inches between the earth and the sash on the lower or front side. The
manure which is used to heat the bed may be placed on top of the ground
and the frame set on the pile, or it may be placed in a pit. If the land
is warm and well drained, it is ordinarily better to have a pit from 1
to 2 feet deep and to set the frame over it. This is especially the case
if it is desired to have a permanent Hotbed yard. The place in which the
frames are set should be protected from the cold and prevailing winds by
a rising slope, a high board fence, a building, hedge, or other
obstruction. If the frame yard is near the main buildings, it will be
much more accessible in rainy or snowy times, and the plants are likely
to have better care. Water should also be handy.
[Illustration: Section of a Hotbed]
The time of starting a Hotbed will depend upon the kinds of plants to be
grown, the amount of time which one wishes to gain, and something, also,
on the quality of the manure. The hardier the plant the earlier it can
be started. In the latitude of New York, from the first to the middle of
March is the usual time for starting a Hotbed. In this bed are sown
seeds of early flowers and such vegetables as cabbage, cauliflower,
tomato, etc. In the raising of any plants in the Hotbed, it is very
essential that they do not become "drawn" or "leggy." In order to
prevent this, they must be given plenty of room, thorough ventilation on
all pleasant days, and not too great heat. It is well to transplant them
once or twice before they are finally set in the field, especially if
they are started, in New York, as early as the first or middle of March.
When they are transplanted, they can be set in another Hotbed or in a
coldframe; but it is important that the succeeding frames in which they
are set should not be very much colder than the one in which they grew,
else they may become stunted. It is well, however, to transplant them
into a gradually cooler and freer atmosphere in order to harden them
off, so that they may go into the open ground without danger. On every
pleasant day, raise the sash at the upper end 1 or 2 inches, or if the
sun shines brightly and the wind does not blow, give even more air; and
eventually strip off the sashes entirely. It is very important that the
plants are not kept too close and grown too soft. It is usually
advisable to sow cabbage, lettuce and other hardy plants in different
frames from tomatoes and other tender things, in order that the proper
requirements may be given to each. At night the Hotbeds (at least early
in the season) will need more protection than the glass sash. It was
formerly the custom to use thick rye-straw mats to cover Hotbeds, but it
is now a common practice to use the straw matting which can be bought of
carpet dealers. This is rolled out on the sashes at night in one or two
thicknesses; and if the weather is sharp, board shutters, the size of
the sash, may be laid on top. As the manure heat begins to fail give
more and more air, so that the plants may be able to shift for
themselves when the bottom heat is finally exhausted.
Fresh horse manure is the material which is commonly used for the
heating of Hotbeds. If it can be secured from livery stables, so that it
is all of nearly or quite the same age, better results may be expected.
Manure from highly fed horses usually heats better than that from horses
which receive little grain, or in which there is very much litter. Put
the manure in a pile, preferably under cover, and as soon as it shows
signs of heating, fork it over in order to mix the entire mass and to
cause it to heat evenly. When it is steaming throughout the whole mass,
it may be put in the bed. Assuming that the Hotbed has a pit beneath it,
it is well to put in 2 or 3 inches of coarse litter in order to keep the
manure off the cold ground. The manure is then put in and tramped down,
in layers of 4 to 6 inches each. If the manure is of the right
consistency, it will pack without becoming dense and soggy; that is, it
will spring a little beneath the feet. If it has too much litter, it
will fluff up under the feet and not pack well. From 18 to 24 or even 30
inches of manure is placed in the pit. On top, an inch of dry straw or
light leaf-mold may be placed to serve as a distributor of the heat to
the earth above. From 3 to 4 inches of rich, light earth is placed upon
this, in which to sow the seed. The manure will ordinarily heat
violently for a few days. Place a soil thermometer in it, and as soon as
the temperature begins to fall below 90 deg. the seeds of tomatoes and
egg-plants may be sown; and when it begins to fall below 80 deg., the seeds
of cabbages, lettuce and cauliflower may be sown. If the frame is not
placed over a pit and the manure is put on top of the ground, it will be
necessary to allow the body of manure to project 1 or 2 feet in all
directions in order to prevent the edges of the bed from freezing.
In starting plants in a Hotbed, one must not expect to gain as much time
in the crop as he gains in the starting of the seeds: that is, if he
starts the seeds two months ahead of the normal season, he will not gain
two months in the ripening of the crop. Ordinarily, he cannot expect to
gain much more than one-half the time, particularly if the plants are
transplanted to the field from the Hotbed.
Some plants may be grown to maturity in the Hotbed, particularly lettuce
and radishes. After Hotbeds have been emptied of their plants, the
sashes may be stored away, and the frames, with their spent manure, used
for the growing of an early summer crop of melons or cucumbers.
HOUSE PLANTS. See _Window-Garden_.
[Illustration: Hyacinth bean]
HYACINTH BEAN (_Dolichos Lablab_). A very rapid-growing twiner, bearing
fragrant flowers of purple or white. It is a fine screen plant. Plant
seeds when the ground is warm where the plants are to grow; or they may
be started early in pots. Height 10 feet.
HYACINTHS are most popular winter- or spring-flowering bulbs. Hyacinths
are hardy, but they are often used as window or greenhouse plants. They
are easy to grow and very satisfactory. For winter flowering the bulbs
should be procured early in the fall, potted in October in soil composed
of loam, leaf-mold and sand. If ordinary flower pots are used, put in
the bottom a few pieces of broken pots, charcoal or small stones for
drainage; then fill the pot with dirt, so that when the bulb is planted
the top will be on a level with the rim of the pot. Fill in around the
bulb with soil, leaving just the tip of the bulb showing. These pots of
bulbs should be placed in a cold pit, cellar or on the shady side of a
building. In all cases, plunge the pot in some cool material (as
cinders). Before the weather becomes cold enough to freeze a crust on
the ground, the pots should have a protection of straw or leaves to keep
the bulbs from severe freezing. In from six to eight weeks the bulbs
should have made roots enough to grow the plant, and the pots may be
placed in a cool room for a short time. When the plants have started
into growth, they may be placed in a warmer situation. Watering should
be carefully attended to from this time, and when the plant is in bloom
the pot may be set in a saucer or other shallow dish containing water.
After flowering, the bulbs may be ripened by gradually withholding water
until the leaves die. They may then be planted out in the border, where
they will bloom each spring for a number of years, but will never prove
satisfactory for forcing again. The open ground culture of Hyacinths is
the same as for tulips, which see. See _Bulbs_.
_Water Culture of Hyacinths._--The Hyacinth is the most popular of the
Dutch bulbs for growing in vases. The Narcissus may be grown in water,
and do just as well, but it is not as pretty in glasses as the Hyacinth.
Glasses for Hyacinths may be had of florists who deal in supplies, and
in various shapes and colors. The usual form is tall and narrow, with a
cup-like mouth to receive the bulb. They are filled with water, so that
it will just reach the base of the bulb when it has been placed in
position in the cup above. The vessels of dark-colored glass are
preferable to those of clear glass, as roots prefer darkness. When the
glasses, or bowls as above mentioned, have been arranged, they are set
away in a cool, dark place to form roots like potted bulbs. Results are
usually secured earlier in water than in soil. To keep the water sweet,
a few lumps of charcoal may be put in the glass. As the water
evaporates, add fresh; add enough so that it runs over, and thereby
renews that in the glass. Do not disturb the roots by taking out the
bulb.
HYDRANGEA. One of the commonest lawn shrubs is _Hydrangea paniculata_.
The commonest fault in growing it is scattering the plants over the
lawn, where they suffer in the competition with grass roots, and do not
show off to advantage. It is far better to mass them in front of taller
things. The Hydrangea blooms on wood of the season; therefore it should
be pruned after bloom--in winter or early spring (see _Pruning_). Cut
back heavily, in order to secure the strong new shoots upon which the
flowers are borne.
HYSSOP. See _Sweet Herbs_.
ICE PLANT, or MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. Fine little plants for rockwork or
edging. The majority of the species are greenhouse and window plants,
but a few can be recommended for outdoor planting. A very sunny
location, with gravelly soil, will give the best results, either in the
open or in the house. Easily propagated by pieces of the plant laid on
moist sand in a somewhat sunny place. The common Ice Plant of
window-gardens is readily grown from seeds or slips. It is prized for
its glandular-glistening thick foliage (whence the common name). The
little flowers, which open in sunshine, are also interesting.
IMPATIENS SULTANI is a generally known conservatory plant, making a
charming pot subject for warm greenhouse or a room. It is readily
propagated from seed or cuttings, seed being preferable. Flowers bright
pink-red. Of easy culture in a fairly moist atmosphere. Height about 18
inches.
INSECTS. For horticultural purposes, Insects might be grouped into three
general classes: borers, or those which live inside the plant tissue;
chewing Insects which live on the outside of the plant; and the sucking
Insects.
As a general statement, it may be said that the digging out of borers is
the only complete remedy. Sometimes an application of something to the
body of the tree may keep them out, but it is always uncertain; and it
usually involves more work than to dig them out. All trees which are
subject to borers (especially apples, peaches and pears) should be
examined at least twice every year. See _Borers_.
[Illustration: Moth of one of the borers]
[Illustration: A beetle borer]
The general run of chewing or biting Insects may be killed by the
arsenical poisons. Such Insects are the common types of worms and
beetles which feed on foliage. The leading poison which is now used for
this purpose is Paris green (which see). Hellebore and pyrethrum are
useful when it is not advisable to use arsenical poisons.
The sucking Insects include all the kinds of plant lice, the squash bug
and all the scale Insects. These are dispatched by some material which
kills by external application, especially material which has kerosene or
petroleum in it. The common material heretofore used for this purpose is
kerosene and soap emulsion; but it is now believed that the emulsion of
kerosene and water is fully as efficient, and since machines have been
perfected for automatically mixing it, it is a much more practicable
remedy. See _Kerosene Emulsion_.
[Illustration: Weevil--a chewing insect]
In the fighting of all Insects, success depends upon taking them in
time. If something is known of the life history of the Insect, very much
will be gained, for the operator may be on hand as soon as the Insect is
expected to appear.
_Insects on House Plants._--The most troublesome or common Insects with
which the amateur is likely to meet in the window-garden or conservatory
are the red spider, mite, mealy bug, aphis, and scale.
The red spider is a very minute Insect with a reddish body. Its presence
may be suspected whenever plants are growing in a warm and dry place.
Usually it first appears on the under side of leaves, but it multiplies
rapidly, and will soon not be so choice of position. It sucks the juices
of the leaves, and they soon indicate the injury by a dull appearance,
and also, in many cases, by small whitish or paler areas on the upper
surfaces. The mite is of similar habits and size, but is of a pale
color, with black on its back. It appears under the same conditions as
the red spider. These pests are small, but are very serious if allowed
to multiply unchecked. They should be looked after as soon as their
presence is detected.
The remedy is to arrange for keeping the air about the plants more
moist, and giving drenchings of the foliage with clear or soapy water.
The latter is most effective. The soap used may be simply the common
washing soap, or that sold at drug stores known as whale-oil soap. In
fighting them, care must be used not to keep the soil soaked with water,
or it will check the plants in vigor and only add to the strength of the
enemy. Even florists sometimes get into just such a predicament.
Flagging and extreme variations in dryness and humidity of the air,
checking the vigor of plants, favor the appearance and presence of the
red spider quite as much as extreme and continued dryness of the air.
The aphids or plant lice are readily discernable when they appear on
plants, as they are sure to do under nearly all conditions. They are
small, have elongated, succulent bodies, move about slowly and
awkwardly, on rather long, hairlike legs, and are most commonly of a
pale green color, though often brown or reddish, and sometimes of other
shades. Fumigation of the plants in a closed box with burning tobacco
stems will kill them. Latterly florists evaporate a liquid extract of
tobacco (which is sold by dealers in florists' supplies) by dropping a
hot iron into a pan of it. A tea made by soaking tobacco stems in water
for a few hours, and applied with a syringe, is effective, and a safe
remedy in inexperienced hands. A tablespoonful of tobacco sheep-dip, or
extract of tobacco, to a couple of gallons of water, also makes an
effective syringing or dipping solution. As mentioned above, we should
use care, especially in the winter time, when the soil often dries out
slowly, to avoid soaking it when already wet or sufficiently moist.
[Illustration: One of the kind which sucks its food]
Mealy bug has a small, flat, tortoise-shaped body, from about
one-sixteenth to one-eighth of an inch long. The Insects collect in
masses in the axils of the leaves. They are covered with a white mealy
or cottony substance, and are readily recognized, although persons
unfamiliar with their appearance have sometimes mistaken them for bits
of down or cotton lodged upon the foliage or in the axils of the leaves.
The young are small, and likely to escape observation unless one looks
closely. They are flat, of a creamy or pinkish tint, and lie close to
the surface of the leaves, especially on the under surface. Coleus and
bouvardias are among the plants upon which mealy bugs are most often
found. Owing to the oily nature of their covering, it is difficult to
wet their bodies with any ordinary liquid that may be applied for the
purpose of destroying them. Fir-tree oil is one of the most effective
remedies for them. This liquid is rather expensive, but for a small
collection a gallon can will last for a long time. It is also effective
against other Insects. For mealy bugs, two tablespoonfuls of the oil to
one pint of water will make an effective dipping or spraying solution.
Soft or rain-water should be used, and tin, wooden, or earthenware
vessels. Galvanized iron vessels are to be avoided. Apply forcibly with
a syringe or atomizer, preferably in the evening. If effective, the
mealy bug will turn buff-color. For other Insects, except for the scale,
mentioned below, the solution will not need to be more than half or a
fourth so strong. Where there are only a few mealy bugs, the plant may
be gone over with a soft brush and the Insects crushed.
[Illustration: The codlin-moth]
Scales are most commonly of a brown or whitish color, flat or
tortoise-shaped, and easily seen. They adhere closely by the under
surface of their bodies to the stems, branches, and foliage of woody
plants. The mature Insect is stationary, and its body at length becomes
a shell containing hundreds of eggs. These hatch, and the young emerge
from the shell, crawl about and settle, to develop into the familiar
form. A strong solution of fir-tree oil, like that used for mealy bugs,
is a good remedy. A strong solution of whale-oil soap, made by adding an
ounce or more of the soap to three gallons of water, even more if
necessary, is also useful in combating them. After dipping or syringing
the plants they may be allowed to stand over night, when they should be
rinsed off with clear water. Applications may need repeating every three
or four days until the Insects are gotten rid of. It is difficult, for a
time, to tell when they are dead. If killed, the bodies will fall off
easily, and in the case of the soft-shelled species shrivel up somewhat
after a time. Kerosene and water emulsion (see _Kerosene_) will kill
them.
INSECTICIDE. A substance which will kill insects. Insecticides are of
two general classes--those that kill by contact (see _Kerosene_), and
those that poison the insect (see _Paris Green_ and _Hellebore_).
IRIS. Many handsome perennials, of which the Blue Flag is familiar to
every old-fashioned garden. Most Irises thrive best in a rather moist
soil, and some of them may be colonized in the water in margins of
ponds. Gardeners usually divide them into two sections--the
tuberous-rooted or rhizomatous, and the bulbous. A third division--the
fibrous-rooted--is sometimes made. The common and most serviceable
species belong to the tuberous-rooted section. Here belongs the
beautiful and varied Japanese Iris, _Iris laevigata_ (or _I. Kaempferi_),
which is among the most deserving of all hardy perennials. Most of these
Irises need no special care. They are propagated by division of the
rootstocks. Plant the pieces 1 foot apart if a mass effect is desired.
When the plants begin to fail, dig them up, divide the roots, discard
the old parts and grow a new stock, as before. _I. Susiana_, of this
section, is one of the oddest of Irises, but it is not quite hardy in
the North. Of the bulbous section, most species are not hardy in the
North. The bulbs should be taken up and replanted every two or three
years. The Persian and Spanish Irises belong here. The bulbs give rise
to but a single stem.
KALE. A low-growing, spreading plant belonging to the cabbage family and
extensively used for winter and spring greens. The same culture as given
to late cabbage is suitable. At the approach of severe freezing weather
a slight protection is given in the North. The leaves remain green
through the winter and may be gathered from under the snow at a time
when material for greens is scarce. Some of the Kales are very
ornamental because of their blue and purple curled foliage. The Scotch
Curled is the most popular variety. Kales are extensively grown at
Norfolk, Va., and southward, and shipped north in winter. Let the plants
stand 18 to 30 inches apart. Young cabbage plants are sometimes used as
Kale. See _Collards_. Borecole is a kind of Kale. Sea Kale is a wholly
different vegetable (which see).
KEROSENE is fatal to insects. It is likely to injure plants if applied
full strength, although if applied in full sunlight (so that evaporation
takes place rapidly) it may do no harm. It is safest to apply it in
dilution. Of late, there are pumps which mix or emulsify Kerosene and
water in definite proportions, and this mixture (in the proportion of
1/5 or 1/4 Kerosene) is fatal to insects and usually harmless to plants.
The standard Kerosene emulsion is with soap, but the perfection of
mechanical devices for emulsifying it with water is probably destined to
supplant the soap emulsion.
_Kerosene Emulsion._--Hard soap, 1/2 pound; boiling soft water, 1
gallon; Kerosene, 2 gallons. Dissolve the soap in the water, add the
Kerosene, and churn with a pump for 5 to 10 minutes. Dilute 10 to 25
times before applying. Use strong emulsion, diluted four times in
winter, for all scale insects. For insects which suck, as plant-lice,
mealy bugs, red spider, thrips, bark-lice or scale. Cabbage-worms,
currant-worms, and all insects which have soft bodies can also be
successfully treated.
KOHLRABI. This vegetable looks like a leafy turnip growing above ground.
If used when small (2 to 3 inches in diam.), and not allowed to become
hard and tough, it is of superior quality. It should be more generally
grown. The culture is very simple. A succession of sowings should be
made from early spring until the middle of summer, in drills 18 inches
to 2 feet apart, thinning the young plants to 6 or 8 inches in the rows.
It matures as quickly as turnips. One ounce of seed to 100 feet of
drill.
[Illustration: Lantana]
LANTANA is a popular greenhouse pot-plant, and is occasionally seen in
window-gardens, being grown for the profusion of its orange-red,
heliotrope-shaped flowers. In the South, and sometimes in the North, it
is planted out for the summer. It is very easy to grow, and also to
propagate by means of cuttings. Although the flowers of the common
species are ill-scented, the profusion of bloom makes it desirable.
LARKSPUR. DELPHINIUM. The Larkspurs are among the very best hardy
plants, being free-flowering and having a good habit. They should be in
every mixed border, particularly the perennial kinds. The tall
flower-spikes, showing above the cut foliage, give the plant a striking
effect. The flowers are in shades of blue in most varieties. The plants
are propagated by division of root or from seed. The latter method will
give good results, although the resulting plants are not likely to be
the same variety as the seed plant.
As winter approaches, a covering of coarse litter should be thrown over
the crowns of the perennial kinds. The plants will come into bloom in
late June and continue for a long season. Plants should be set 3 to 5
feet apart if in rows, but they are seen to better advantage when mixed
with other border plants. Height of plants from 3 to 5 feet.
The annual Larkspur may be grown from seed sown in heat and transplanted
to the ground in May; or seed may be sown where the plants are wanted
and the seedlings thinned to 1 foot. These seedlings will bloom in June,
and continue through the summer. Plants grow from 8 to 18 inches high.
LATHYRUS. See _Pea, Everlasting_; also, _Sweet Pea_.
LAWNS. In order to have a good Lawn, two things are essential: first, a
pleasing surface or contour; second, a dense, firm sod.
Inasmuch as the Lawn is, or should be, a permanent thing, it is
necessary that the greatest care be exercised to grade the land and to
thoroughly prepare it before any seeds are sown. About a new building
the filling should be allowed to settle, so that the finished surface
will slope gradually away from the foundations and the steps. If the
land is very hard clay, or if the place is rather low, it is always well
to lay tile under-drains at frequent intervals. Everything should be
done to cause the land to be deep and loose, so that the grass roots
will run far into the soil and not be pressed for lack of moisture in a
dry time. If the land has not had applications of manure in recent
years, it is well to plow in, or to spade in, a liberal quantity of
well-rotted litter from the barnyard. Work this into the soil as deeply
as possible. If the hardpan is rather high, it is well to subsoil the
area or to trench it (that is, to spade it up two or three spades deep).
If the land is apparently not fertile in plant-food, it is well to add a
dressing of some commercial fertilizer to the surface when the grass
seed is sown. This will start the grass quickly and allow it to get a
foothold before the severe weather of midsummer comes.
[Illustration: It is fun to make a garden]
[Illustration: A garden corner]
The kind of grass seed to sow will depend upon the region and also upon
the personal tastes of the owner. The one standard Lawn grass is June
grass or blue grass (_Poa pratensis_). The seeds of this grass are sold
in the hulls, and therefore the bushel weighs only fourteen pounds. Not
less than two and one-half to three bushels should be sown to the acre.
In the southern states, June grass will not hold, and Bermuda grass is
used, being sown about as thick as recommended for the June grass. There
are various prepared Lawn grass mixtures which are excellent, but the
June grass alone will give a very excellent Lawn in a short time.
Whether one shall sow white clover in his Lawn depends mostly upon his
personal taste. If he likes the white clover, it is well to put in a
quart or two of seed to the acre, sowing it separately from the June
grass in order to get an even distribution. Some persons like to see the
white clover in certain parts of the Lawn. It thrives very well where
the land is rather moist. In parts of the East, Rhode Island bent grass
is used for lawns.
[Illustration: A nursery]
The grass seed should be sown in the cool of the year. It may be sown in
September and thereby become established before winter; or it may be
sown very early in the spring. In newly made Lawns, it is a good plan to
grade the area thoroughly in the fall, allowing it to settle in the
winter; and then, if the surface remains even, to sow the grass seed on
one of the latest snows in spring. By sowing it on the snow, one can see
that it is distributed evenly; and when the snow melts, the seed is
carried into the land and does not need covering. It is well to sow
three or four quarts per acre of timothy seed, for the timothy
germinates very quickly, and makes a green area the first season, but is
killed out as soon as the June grass gains a foothold. Timothy will not
stand the continued cutting, whereas the June grass will. The timothy,
therefore, serves as a temporary covering to the land, indicating where
the borders are, and thereby outlining the area for the Lawn mower to
cut. The timothy seed should be sown separately from the June grass in
order to insure even distribution. On hard lands it is well to sow two
or three quarts per acre of crimson clover seed. The long roots of this
plant tend to improve the physical condition of the soil; and when they
decay, they leave nitrogen in the soil for the grass to use. Since
crimson clover is an annual plant, it will not do any permanent mischief
in the Lawn.
[Illustration: A lawn, with planting on the sides]
The first season the weeds will probably come up thickly, especially if
the land is rich. These weeds should not be pulled, for whenever one is
pulled out of the ground, many grass plants are rooted up and the
surface is made uneven. The only way in which to keep down weeds is to
mow them frequently with a Lawn mower. They will not appear in any great
numbers the second year, unless there should be some perennial weeds,
like dandelion or dock; and these may be pulled out the first fall or
the following spring.
It is rare that one secures a perfectly good and uniform sod from one
sowing of seed; especially is this true if the soil varies in different
parts of the area. If the surface contour is satisfactory, it is unwise
to dig up the areas on which the seed has not caught. It is best to rake
them over with a steel rake in fall or spring, sowing on a little
commercial fertilizer rather rich in nitrogen, and sow more seed. Nearly
every Lawn will need patching in this way from year to year. If the Lawn
is attended to in fall and spring by sowing grass seed, the weeds will
rarely do serious mischief. When weeds are troublesome on the Lawn, it
means that there is not sufficient grass, and every effort should be
made to get more grass. Therefore, when the perennial weeds are pulled
out, sow more grass seed.
[Illustration: A picturesque rill on the lawn]
When narrow-leaved plantain bothers, it is an indication that the land
is too poor and dry for grass. In such cases, the land usually lacks
humus or vegetable matter; and in various severe incursions of the
plantain, it may be necessary to spade up the weedy areas and to work
rotted manure into the soil. Usually, however, the plantain can be
killed out by enriching the soil and sowing more grass seed. The common
practice of sprinkling Lawns is nearly always pernicious, since the
water is not supplied in sufficient amount to wet down very far, and the
grass tends to make surface roots. When the watering is omitted the
plants suffer. The more a Lawn is sprinkled, the more the grass depends
upon the sprinkling. If it is necessary to water the Lawn, the water
should be allowed to run directly from the hose until the surface area
is completely soaked. It is best to do this at nightfall. When the water
is applied by means of a sprinkler, a large part of it evaporates and
does no good to the ground. The fundamental treatment of the Lawn is to
have the land so deep and porous that the grass roots strike deep into
the soil and do not need the surface water. A Lawn which is well made
will need watering only in unusually dry times.
Mow the Lawn frequently when it is growing rapidly,--in spring and early
summer. In the fall mow less frequently, and let it go into the winter
with a long coat of grass. If the Lawn is mown as often as is needed, it
will not be necessary to rake off the trimmings. In fall, top-dress the
Lawn with commercial fertilizer at the rate of 500 pounds to the acre.
If the Lawn has not been raked clean of all the trimmings and decayed
refuse which covers the surface of the ground, it is not necessary to
dress it with stable manure; for manure is unsightly, unsavory, and
often brings in weeds. Many persons make the mistake of raking the Lawn
clean in late fall.
Closely associated with the making of the Lawn is the general
arrangement of the planting. It is the common fault to scatter the
planting. Much better effects are secured by massing or grouping the
planting. See _Borders_ and _Flower Beds_. Particularly along the
boundaries and about the foundations of buildings, the shrubbery and
other plants may be massed to excellent effect. In large places there
should be more or less mass planting along the walks and drives. In the
curves and retreats of these plantings one will find many pleasant
corners; and here the children may have their play-houses and their
pets. A little brook winding across a corner or along one side of a Lawn
may make a pleasant picture if it is allowed to take on a half-wild
character.
[Illustration: A layer]
LAYERS are parts (usually stems) of plants laid down on the earth while
still attached to the parent, with the expectation that they will take
root and can then be separated as independent plants. All vine-like
plants can be propagated readily by means of Layers; so can most
soft-wooded plants, as willows, maples, currants, etc. It is usual to
put down the branches in the fall. In a year they should be ready to be
severed from the parent. They may also be made in spring, before growth
starts. See that the layered part rests in moist earth. Usually roots
arise more freely if the shoot is cracked or notched at the buried
point. The Layer may be held down by a forked stick ("pegged down"), or
by a stone or clod. See that the shoot does not throw up suckers behind
the layered part.
[Illustration: Several layers from one vine]
LEEK. This belongs to the onion family, and is used mostly as flavoring
for soups. Well grown Leeks have a very agreeable and not very strong
onion flavor. Leek is of the easiest culture, and is usually grown as a
second crop, to follow beets, early peas, and other early stuff. The
seed should be sown in a seed-bed in April or early May and the
seedlings planted out in the garden in July, in rows 2 feet apart, the
plants being 6 inches apart in the rows. The plants should be set deep
if the neck or lower part of the leaves is to be used in a blanched
condition. The soil may be drawn towards the plants in hoeing, to
further the blanching. Being very hardy, the plants may be dug in late
fall, and stored in the same manner as celery, in trenches or in a cool
root-cellar. One ounce of seed to 100 feet of drill.
LETTUCE is probably the most extensively grown salad vegetable. It is
now in demand, and is procurable, every month in the year. The winter
and early spring crops are grown in forcing-houses and coldframes, but a
supply from the garden may be had from April to November, by the use of
a cheap frame in which to grow the first and last crops, relying on a
succession of sowings for the intermediate supply. Seed for the first
crop may be sown in a coldframe in March, growing the crop thick and
having many plants which are small and tender; or, by thinning out to
the distance of 3 inches and allowing the plants to make a larger
growth, the plants pulled up may be set in the open ground for the next
crop. Sowings should be made in the garden from April to October, at
short intervals. A moist location should be selected for the July and
August sowings. The early and late sowings should be of some
loose-growing variety, as they are in edible condition sooner than the
cabbage or heading varieties.
[Illustration: Plant of heading lettuce]
The cabbage varieties are far superior to the loose-growing kinds for
salads. To be grown to perfection, they should have very rich soil,
frequent cultivation and an occasional stimulant, such as liquid manure
or nitrate of soda. The Cos Lettuce is an upright-growing type much
esteemed in Europe, but less grown here. The leaves of the full grown
plants are tied together, thus blanching the center, making it a
desirable salad or garnishing variety. It thrives best in summer. One
ounce of seed will grow 3,000 plants or sow 100 feet of drill. In the
garden, plants may stand 6 inches apart in the rows, and the rows may be
as close together as the system of tillage will allow.
LILY. Bulbous plants of many kinds. It has been said of this family of
plants that it has no "poor relations," each of them being perfect in
itself. Many of the choicest kinds are comparatively unknown, although
easy to cultivate. In fact, all of the Lilies may be grown with
comparative ease. A light, rich, well-drained soil, mellow to the depth
of at least 1 foot, a handful of sand under each bulb if the soil is
inclined to be stiff, and planting so that the crown of the bulb will be
at least 4 inches below the surface, are the general requirements. One
exception to the depth of planting is _Lilium auratum_, or Golden-Banded
Lily. This should be planted deeper--at least 8 inches below the
surface--as the new bulbs form over the old one and soon bring the bulbs
to the surface if they are not planted deep.
While Lilies may have partial shade, they should never be planted near
or under trees. The shade or protection of tall-growing, herbaceous
plants is sufficient. In fact, the best results, both as to growth and
effect, may be had by planting amongst low shrubbery or border plants.
Most kinds are the better for remaining undisturbed for a number of
years; but if they are to be taken up and divided, or moved to other
quarters, they should not be allowed to become dry. The small bulbs, or
offsets, may be planted in the border, and if protected will grow to
flowering size in two or three years. In taking up bulbs for division it
is best to do so soon after the tops die after blooming. At least this
should be done early in the fall, not later than October, giving the
plants a chance to become established before freezing weather. A mulch
of coarse litter or evergreen boughs should be placed over the bulbs
after the ground has become frozen, to be gradually removed as the
spring advances.
[Illustration: Easter Lily]
As pot-plants some Lilies are very satisfactory, especially those that
may be forced into bloom through the winter. The best kinds for this
purpose are _L. Harrisii_ (Easter Lily), _L. longiflorum_, and _L.
candidum_. Others may be forced with success, but these are the ones
most generally used. The winter culture of these for forcing is the
same as for Hyacinths (in pots), which see. The article on _Bulbs_ gives
directions for both outdoor and indoor growing which are directly
applicable to Lilies.
LILY, CHINESE SACRED. See _Narcissus_.
LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY. A perfectly hardy little plant, bearing racemes of
small white bell-shaped flowers in early spring. For ordinary
cultivation, sods or mats of roots may be dug from any place in which
the plant is colonized. Usually it thrives best in partial shade; and
the leaves make an attractive mat on the north side of a building, or
other shady place, in which grass will not grow. The plants will take
care of themselves year after year.
For forcing indoors, imported roots or "pips" are used, as the plants
are grown for this particular purpose in parts of Europe. These roots
may be planted in pots, and treated as recommended for winter-flowering
bulbs, under _Bulbs_. Florists force them in greater heat, however,
often giving them a bottom heat of 80 deg. or 90 deg.; but skill and
experience are required in order to attain uniformly good results in
this case.
LINE. A garden Line is one of the most convenient things connected with
garden operations. It is always wanted when long rows of seed are to be
sown, and it is also necessary in laying out walks or drives. A very
simple, yet handy, holder for a line is shown on the margin. The pin is
driven in the soil at the starting point, and the line is unwound as the
operator walks towards the end of the row. A line should be 100 feet
long for common garden operations.
[Illustration: A garden Line]
LOBELIA. Some of these are well-known garden plants, being used very
freely as edging for ribbon beds or basket plants. They require a loose,
rich soil, and some stimulant when in full flower. The flowers continue
through a long season. They propagate freely from seed. _Lobelia
Erinus_, in blue, 6 inches high, is one of the most popular of all
annual edging plants. In Europe various perennial Lobelias are popular,
but they are seldom seen in American gardens.
LONDON PURPLE. Discussed under _Paris Green_.
LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING. See _Amarantus_.
MANURE adds plant-food to the soil, and it also improves the texture or
physical condition of the soil. This latter effect is often its greatest
value. If one wants mere plant-food alone, he may often do better to add
it in some more concentrated form. See _Fertilizers_. Manure, when
thoroughly incorporated with the soil, makes the ground congenial for
the plant. It is important, in garden operations, that the Manure be
rotted or composted, or "short" or "fine," as the gardeners say. It then
incorporates readily with the soil and quickly gives up its fertility.
Manure is composted by letting it decay in piles. The compost pile
should be flat on top, so that it will catch the rains, and 3 to 5 feet
high.
The most desirable Manure for the garden and for house plants is
probably old cow Manure. It does not burn or lose its strength. It may
be kept for a number of years if piled under shelter, becoming more
available each year. It mixes well with soil and leaf-mold. When once
rotted, this manure is very lasting and easily assimilated by plants.
Horse Manure is very likely to become overheated, and to lose its value;
and it is too loose and dry for many purposes. Pig Manure, unless well
composted with soil or refuse, is usually too heavy and rich. Sheep
Manure is at its best when used in a liquid form, although it is most
excellent to mix with soil to loosen it.
All garden refuse, such as vines, leaves, decaying vegetables, will make
Manure if composted with soil; and if the wash water is thrown on the
compost pile much fertility will be added. Wood ashes from stoves, the
chip dirt from the woodshed--in fact, almost any substance that will
decay--will furnish plant-food, and should be added to the compost pile.
This pile should be turned often, to mix the material.
When practicable, it is best to apply Manure in the fall, as it then has
time to become incorporated with the soil before spring. Beds which are
to be used for flowers next year may be dressed with Manure in the fall
and deeply spaded, leaving the surface rough and loose. It is well to be
careful that the Manure does not contain weed seeds.
MARIGOLD. The Marigolds of the old-fashioned gardens are still among the
best of plants for fall color. They are hardy annuals of the easiest
culture, and are always certain of giving strong and excellent results.
They have been much improved of late years. The old-fashioned African
Marigolds grow 2 to 3 feet high, and they are useful for scattering in
mixed borders or making large masses or displays of color in the remoter
parts of the place. The French or dwarf Marigolds grow about 1 foot high
and are more tufty in their habit. They are better adapted for edgings
than for mass effects in the main parts of the grounds. All Marigolds
may be sown where the plants are to stand, since the flowers are usually
not wanted until late summer or early fall, at which time they usually
give their best bloom. If they are wanted earlier, however, the seeds
may be started in the house or hotbed. Tall varieties may be allowed to
stand from 10 to 18 inches apart and the dwarfs at somewhat less
distances.
MATTHIOLA will be found under _Stocks_.
MIGNONETTE. Probably no flower is more generally grown for its fragrance
than this. The Mignonette needs a cool soil, only moderately rich, shade
part of the day, and careful attention to cutting the flower-stalks
before the seeds are ripe. If a sowing be made in late April, followed
by a second sowing in early July, the season may be extended until
severe frosts. There are few flowers that will prove as disappointing if
the treatment it needs is omitted. Height 1 to 2 feet. Treated as a
half-hardy annual. It can be sown in pots late in summer and had in the
house in winter.
MOON-FLOWERS are species of Morning-Glories that open their flowers at
night. A well-grown plant trained over a porch trellis, or allowed to
grow at random over a low tree or shrub, is a striking object when in
full flower at dusk or through a moonlit evening. In the southern states
the Moon-Flower is a perennial, but even when well protected does not
survive the winters in the North. Cuttings may be made before danger of
frost and wintered in the house, or the plants may be grown from seed
sown in January or February. Cuttings usually give best results in the
northern states, as the seasons are not long enough for seed plants to
give good bloom. Seeds should be scalded or filed just before sowing.
The true Moon-Flower is _Ipomoea Bona-Nox_, white-flowered; but there
are other kinds. This grows 20 to 30 feet where the seasons are long
enough.
[Illustration: Morning-Glories]
MORNING-GLORY is perhaps the most popular of all twining herbs, because
of the ease with which it may be grown, the quickness with which it
covers the object, and the quantities of bright, cheerful flowers it
bears. Many of the kinds--in fact all that are generally known--may be
readily grown from seed, flowering early in the summer. Tender annuals.
Give rich soil and plenty of water. The beautiful cypress vine belongs
to this group. It requires the same treatment as the Morning-Glory, but
the seeds should be scalded just previous to sowing.
Dwarf Morning-Glories (_Convolvulus tricolor_). They come into flower
much sooner than the tall climbing varieties, and are covered with
flowers through a long season. They may be used with fine effect in
vases or large hanging baskets. Give a full sunny exposure. May thrive
on soil that is not very rich. They grow 1 foot high. Half-hardy
annuals.
MULBERRY. Both for fruit and ornament the Mulberry should be more
generally planted. Even if the fruit is not to the taste, the tree is
naturally open-centered and round-headed, and is an interesting subject;
some of the varieties have finely cut leaves. The fruits are in great
demand by the birds, and after they begin to ripen the strawberry beds
and cherry trees are free from robins and other fruit-eating birds. For
this reason alone they are a valuable tree for the fruit-grower. Trees
may be purchased cheaper than one can propagate them.
If planted in orchard form, place them 25 to 30 feet apart. About the
borders of a place they can go closer. The Russian varieties are often
planted for windbreaks, for they are very hardy and thrive under the
greatest neglect; and for this purpose they may be planted 8 to 20 feet
apart. The Russians make excellent screens. They stand clipping well.
New American, Trowbridge and Thorburn are leading kinds of fruit-bearing
Mulberries for the North. The true Downing is not hardy in the northern
states; but New American is often sold under this name. Mulberries
thrive in any good soil, and need no special treatment.
MULCH is used both in protecting plants from the severe freezing of
winter and the severe drought of summer. The same material may be used
in either case, although it is now considered best to make an earth
Mulch to prevent evaporation and retain the moisture through the dry
season. This earth Mulch is made by breaking the crust of the soil and
leaving it in fine particles. This may be done with a horse cultivator,
a hoe or a rake. In fact, any tool which leaves the top of the soil
loose will be instrumental in preventing evaporation of soil water. See
_Tillage_. The Mulching of the ground around blackberries, currants,
gooseberries, or raspberries with straw or hay is often practiced to
keep the fruits clean; and the winter Mulch of strawberry beds is used
between the rows for the same purpose, as well as to retain moisture and
to afford winter protection. Winter Mulch usually consists of leaves,
straw, hay, rough manure, boughs of evergreens, or any coarse material
that will protect the plants from severe freezing and the heaving caused
by alternate freezing and thawing. This winter Mulch should be removed
as spring advances, unless it is of such a character as to be worked
into the soil to add fertility or to loosen heavy lands. Near the
seacoast salt hay is considered to be an ideal Mulch. The winter Mulch
must not contain too strong or heavy manures, or plants may be injured
by the leaching. For flower borders and shrubbery, muck or peat makes a
good winter Mulch. Ordinarily the Mulch may be placed on to the depth of
4 to 6 inches, and if it is of loose material it may be still deeper. If
dry and loose, mice may nest in it and girdle the trees or bushes. Even
perfectly hardy plants are benefited by a winter Mulch, because it
improves the soil. Autumn leaves, as they drift into shrubberies, make
an ideal Mulch; it is not always necessary to remove these leaves. See
_Lawn_.
MUSHROOM. There is no science of Mushroom growing. Certain conditions
have been found to give success, but it is not known why. These
conditions may be imitated ever so closely and complete failure result.
There are many "systems" advised, each system the result of somebody's
success; but one cannot be sure of success by following any one of them.
Good results are frequently attained when all rules are broken. The
following paragraphs are from "Farmers' Bulletin," No. 53 (by William
Falconer), of the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture (March, 1897):
Mushrooms are a winter crop, coming in from September till April or
May--that is, the work of preparing the manure begins in September and
ends in February, and the packing of the crop begins in October or
November and ends in May. Under extraordinary conditions the season may
begin earlier and last longer, and, in fact, it may continue all summer.
Mushrooms can be grown almost anywhere out of doors, and also indoors
where there is a dry bottom in which to set the beds, where a uniform
and moderate temperature can be maintained, and where the beds can be
protected from wet overhead, and from winds, drought, and direct
sunshine. Among the most desirable places in which to grow Mushrooms are
barns, cellars, closed tunnels, sheds, pits, greenhouses, and regular
Mushroom houses. Total darkness is not imperative, for Mushrooms grow
well in open light if shaded from sunshine. The temperature and moisture
are more apt to be equable in dark places than in open, light ones, and
it is largely for this reason that Mushroom houses are kept dark.
[Illustration: Mushroom]
The best fertilizer for Mushrooms, so far as the writer's experience
goes, is fresh horse manure. Get together a lot of this material (short
and strawy) that has been well trampled and wetted in the stable. Throw
it into a heap, wet it well if it is at all dry, and let it heat. When
it begins to steam turn it over, shake it well so as to mix thoroughly
and evenly, and then tramp it down solid. After this let it stand till
it again gets quite warm, then turn, shake, trample as before, and add
water freely if it is getting dry. Repeat this turning, moistening and
trampling as often as it is needful to keep the manure from "burning."
If it gets intensely hot, spread it out to cool, after which again throw
it together. After being turned in this way several times, and the heat
in it is not apt to rise above 130 deg. F., it should be ready to make
up in the beds. By adding to the manure at the second or third turning
one-fourth or one-fifth of its bulk of loam, the tendency to intense
heating is lessened and its usefulness not at all impaired. Some growers
prefer short manure exclusively, that is, the horse droppings, while
others like a good deal of straw mixed in with this. The writer's
experience, however, is that, if properly prepared, it matters little
which is used.
Ordinarily the beds are only 8 to 10 inches deep; that is, they are
faced with 10-inch-wide hemlock boards, and are only the depth of this
board. In such beds put a layer of fresh, moist, hot manure, and trample
it down firm until it constitutes half the depth of the bed; then fill
up with the prepared manure, which should be rather cool (100 deg. to
115 deg. F.) when used, and pack all firmly. If desired, the beds can be
made up entirely of the prepared manure. Shelf beds are usually 9 inches
deep; that is, the shelf is bottomed with 1-inch boards and faced with
10-inch-wide boards. This allows about 8 inches for manure, and 1 inch
rising to 2 inches of loam on top. In filling the shelf beds the bottom
half may be of fresh, moist or wettish, hot manure, packed down solid,
and the top half of rather cool prepared manure, or it may be made up of
all prepared manure. As the shelf beds can not be trodden and can not be
beaten very firm with the back of the fork, a brick is used in addition
to the fork.
The beds should be spawned after the heat in them has fallen below 100 deg.
F. The writer considers 90 deg. F. about the best temperature for spawning.
If the beds have been covered with hay, straw, litter or mats, these
should be removed. Break each brick into twelve or fifteen pieces. The
rows should be, say, 1 foot apart, the first one being 6 inches from the
edge, and the pieces should be 9 inches apart in the row. Commencing
with the first row, lift up each piece, raise 2 to 3 inches of the
manure with the hand, and into this hole place the piece, covering over
tightly with the manure. When the entire bed is spawned pack the surface
all over. It is well to cover the beds again with straw, hay or mats, to
keep the surface equally moist. The flake spawn is planted in the same
way as the brick spawn, only not quite so deep.
At the end of eight or nine days the mulching should be removed and the
beds covered with a layer of good loam 2 inches thick, so that the
Mushrooms can come up in and through it. This gives them a firm hold,
and to a large extent improves their quality and texture. Any fair loam
will do. That from an ordinary field, wayside or garden is generally
used, and it answers admirably. There exists an idea that garden soil
surfeited with old manure is unfit for Mushroom beds because it is apt
to produce spurious fungi. This, however, is not the case. In fact, it
is the earth most commonly used. For molding the beds the loam should be
rather fine, free and mellow, so that it can be easily and evenly spread
and compacted firmly into the manure.
If an even atmospheric temperature of from 55 deg. to 60 deg. F. can be
maintained, and the house or cellar containing the Mushroom beds is kept
close and free from drafts, the beds may be left uncovered, and should
be watered if they become dry. But no matter where the beds are
situated, it is well to lay some loose hay or straw or some old matting
or carpet over them to keep them moist. The covering, however, should be
removed just as soon as the young Mushrooms begin to appear above
ground. If the atmosphere is dry, the pathways and walls should be
sprinkled with water. The mulching should also be sprinkled, but not
enough to cause the water to soak into the bed. However, if the bed
should get dry, do not hesitate to water it.
MUSKMELON. The natural soil for melons is a light, sandy loam, well
enriched with rotted manure, although good crops may be grown on soil
naturally heavy if the hills are prepared as they should be. When only
heavy soil is available, the dirt where the seeds are to be planted
should be thoroughly pulverized and mixed with fine, well rotted manure.
A sprinkling of leaf-mold or chip-dirt will help to lighten it. On this
hill from ten to fifteen seeds may be sown, thinning to four or five
vines when danger of insects is over. The season may be advanced and the
damage from insects lessened by starting the plants in hotbeds. This may
be done by using fresh sod, cut into 6-inch pieces, placing them
grass-side down in the hotbed, sowing eight to ten seeds on each piece,
and covering with 2 inches of light soil. When all danger of frost is
over, and the ground has become warm, these sods may be carefully lifted
and set in the prepared hills. The plants usually grow without check,
and fruit from two to four weeks ahead of those from seed planted
directly in the hill. Old quart berry boxes are excellent to plant seeds
in, as, when they are set in the ground, they very quickly decay,
causing no restriction to the roots. Netted Gem, Hackensack, Emerald
Gem, Montreal, Osage, and the Nutmeg Melon are popular varieties. One
ounce of seed will plant about fifty hills.
[Illustration: Muskmelon]
For insects, see _Cucumber_.
MUSK PLANT is an old-fashioned house plant of easy culture. Raise a new
stock from seeds as soon as the plants begin to fail.
NARCISSUS. Hardy bulbous plants, including the daffodils, jonquils, and
other forms. The ease with which these plants may be grown, the beauty
and fragrance of the flowers, as well as their lasting qualities when
cut, would seem to make their culture in this country more popular than
it is. Good bulbs planted in September or October are sure to bloom in
April or May. The bulbs may remain in the ground for a number of years,
although the best results will be had by digging them up every three
years, and resetting in a different location. Select a moist, loamy
soil, slightly protected from the sun. No manure should come directly in
contact with the bulb, but if needed to hold moisture the manure may be
spaded down to the depth of twelve inches.
[Illustration: Narcissus]
Narcissus may be forced into flower through the winter, as described
under _Bulbs_. The most popular for winter bloom is the "Chinese Sacred
Lily." This grows in water without any soil whatever. Secure a bowl or
glass dish, about three times the size of the bulb; put some pretty
stones in the bottom; set in the bulb and build up around it with stones
so as to hold it stiff when the leaves have grown; tuck two or three
small pieces of charcoal among the stones to keep the water sweet, then
fill up the dish with water and add a little every few days, as it
evaporates. Set the dish in a warm, light place. In about six weeks the
fragrant, fine white flowers will fill the room with perfume.
[Illustration: Nasturtium]
NASTURTIUMS (_Tropaeolums_) are both dwarf and climbing. The Dwarf
Nasturtiums make one of the most showy second-row plants for the border.
The colors of the flowers have a wide range and the plants bloom
profusely. It is not, however, the plant in flower that is the greatest
consideration, but the flowers themselves as cut-flowers. No flower
makes a finer display in vase or bowl than these rich colors, all
harmonizing well and lighting up a room as very few of the common easily
grown flowers do. The same may be said of the tall-growing Nasturtiums,
although the flowers of these form part of their effectiveness as screen
vines. Few climbers make a more rapid growth, and none are better
adapted to hide unsightly objects in our yards or gardens.
[Illustration: Dwarf Nasturtium]
For a long season of flowers and a large growth of vine the seed should
be sown late in March or early in April, in boxes or pots, the plants
carried along until the first of May, and planted out where wanted. The
dwarf varieties bloom more freely and the flowers are of better color in
rather poor soils, while for rapid growth of vine a well enriched border
would be the best. The dwarf varieties may be planted 2 or 3 feet apart,
and the tall ones as wanted to make a screen. The tall kinds grow 5 to 8
feet. All Nasturtiums are tender.
NICOTIANA. Tender annuals (or grown as annuals). They are fine plants
for borders or pots, the tall-growing varieties making a very fine show
when in flower, having pure white flowers with long, tubular necks, the
season of bloom being from July to October. The seeds are very fine, and
should be sown on the surface of the soil, in boxes or pots. When
planted out they should be set from 2 to 5 feet apart, according to
kind. Some of the giant Nicotianas are excellent subjects for temporary
screens; so is tobacco, which is also a Nicotiana.
[Illustration: Nicotiana affinis]
_Nicotiana affinis_ is one of the best of all garden flowers. Its long
white flowers are fragrant at evening. They close in the hot sun. It is
a half-hardy annual of easiest culture. Height 2 to 3 feet.
OeNOTHERA. EVENING PRIMROSE. A very interesting group of plants,
opening their flowers at evening. Many of them are fragrant and attract
night insects, especially the large moths, seldom seen until dusk. The
opening of the flowers of the large-flowering varieties is a source of
pleasure and surprise, as one flower follows another in opening, and in
a large plant the late opening flowers seem to burst all at one time.
The perennial species may be propagated by division or seed, the
annuals by seed. Set the tall kinds 2 to 3 feet apart. Height 1 to 3
feet. All of easy culture.
[Illustration: Okra or Gumbo]
OKRA. From the green pods of this vegetable is made the well-known Gumbo
soup of the South, where the plant is more extensively grown than in the
North. The pods are also used in their green state for stews, and are
dried and used in winter, when they are nutritious, and form no little
part of the diet in certain sections of the country. The seeds are very
sensitive to cold and moisture, and should not be sown until the ground
has become warm--the last week in May or the first of June being early
enough in New York. The seed should be sown in a drill 1 inch deep, the
plants thinned to stand 12 inches in the row. Give the same culture as
for corn. One ounce will sow 40 feet of drill. Dwarf varieties are best
for the North. Green Density and Velvet are leading varieties.
OLEANDER. While there are many named varieties of the Oleander, but two
are often seen in general cultivation. These are the common red and
white varieties. Both these, as well as the named varieties, are of easy
management and well adapted to home culture, growing in pots or tubs for
several years without special care. Well-grown specimens are very
effective as porch or lawn plants, or may be used to good advantage in
mixed beds of tall-growing plants, plunging the pot or tub to the rim in
the soil. The plants should be cut back after flowering. They should be
rested in any out-of-the-way place through the winter. When brought out
in the spring, they should be given sun and air in order to make a
sturdy growth. Propagation is effected by using well-ripened wood for
cuttings, placed in a close frame; or the slips may be rooted in a
bottle or can of water, care being taken to supply water as evaporation
takes place. After being rooted, they may be potted, using soil with a
large proportion of sand. Well established plants may be repotted in
good loam and well rotted manure.
ONIONS are grown from seeds ("black seed") for the main crop. They are
also grown from sets (which are very small Onions, arrested in their
development), from "tops" (which are bulblets produced in the place of
flowers), and from multipliers or potato onions, which are compound
bulbs.
[Illustration: Early Onions]
The extremely early crop of Onions is grown from sets, and the late or
fall crop is grown from seed sown in April or early May. The sets may be
saved from the crop harvested the previous fall, saving no bulbs
measuring over 3/4 of an inch in diameter, or, better, they may be
purchased from the seedsman. These sets should be planted as early as
possible in the spring, preferably on land that has been manured and
trenched in the fall. Plant in rows 12 inches apart, the sets being 2 or
3 inches in the row. Push the sets well down into the ground and cover
with soil, firming them with the feet or a roller. In cultivating, the
soil should be thrown towards the tops, as the white stems are usually
sought as an indication of mildness. The crop will be in condition to
use in from three to four weeks, and may be made to last until small
seed Onions are to be had. Tops or multipliers may also be used for the
early crop.
In growing Onions from seed, it is only necessary to say that the seed
should be in the ground very early in order that the bulbs make their
growth before the extreme hot weather of August, when, for want of
moisture and because of the heat, the bulbs will ripen up while small.
Early in April, in New York, if the ground is in condition, the seed
should be sown thickly in drills from 12 to 16 inches apart, and the
ground above the seeds well firmed. Good cultivation and constant
weeding is the price of a good crop of Onions. In cultivating and
hoeing, the soil should be kept away from the rows, not covering the
growing bulbs, but allowing them to spread over the surface of the
ground. When the crop is ready to be harvested, the bulbs may be pulled
or cultivated up, left to dry in double rows for several days, the tops
and roots taken off, and the bulbs stored in a dry place. Later in the
season they may be allowed to freeze, covering with chaff or straw to
hold them frozen, and kept until early spring; but this method is
usually unsafe with beginners, and always so in a changeable climate.
Onion seed should always be fresh when sown--preferably of the last
year's crop. One ounce of Onion seed will sow 100 feet of drill.
One of the recent methods of obtaining extra large bulbs from seed is to
sow the seed in a hotbed in February or early March, and transplant to
the open ground in April.
The Danvers, Prizetaker, Globe and Wethersfield are favorite varieties,
with the addition of White Queen or Barletta for pickling.
OXALIS. A number of hardy species of this are excellent plants for
rockwork and edging. The greenhouse species are very showy, growing
without extra care, and blooming freely through the late winter and
spring months; these are mostly increased by bulbs, a few by division of
the root. _O. violacea_ is one of the commonest of house-plants. Give a
sunny window, for the flowers open only in sun or very bright light. The
bulbous kinds are treated as recommended for _Bulbs_, except that the
bulbs must not freeze.
PALMS. No more graceful plant for room decoration can be found than a
well-grown specimen of some species of Palms. Most Palms are well
adapted for this purpose when small, and as the growth is usually very
slow, a plant may be used for many years. Again, the plants thrive
better in partial shade. They may be grown in a sitting or drawing-room
more satisfactorily than most house-plants. One of the frequent causes
of failure in the culture of the Palm is the over-potting and subsequent
over-watering. A Palm should not be repotted until the mass of roots
fills the soil; then a pot only a size larger should be used. Use ample
drainage in the bottom to carry off excess of water. Although the plants
need a moist soil, water standing at their roots proves injurious. A
soil composed of well rotted sod, leaf-mold and a little sand will meet
their requirements. Among the best Palms for house culture are Arecas,
_Cocos Weddelliana_, Latania, Kentia, Chamaerops and Phoenix. Cycas may
also be regarded as a Palm.
[Illustration: Palms]
The date Palm may be grown from seed of the common commercial date. Seed
of the other varieties may be purchased from leading seedsmen, but, as
the seed germinates only under favorable conditions, and the Palm is a
very slow-growing plant while young, the best plan is to purchase the
plants from a dealer when wanted. When the plants become weak or
diseased, take them to a florist for treatment and recuperation.
[Illustration: A table Palm]
PANDANUS, or SCREW PINE. The _Pandanus utilis_ and _P. Veitchii_ are
exceedingly ornamental, and are well adapted to house culture. The
singular habit of growth, bright, glossy leaves, and the ability to
withstand the dust and shade of a dwelling room, make them a desirable
addition to the house collection. They are propagated by the offsets or
young plants that grow around the base of the trunk; or they may be
increased by seed. If by the former method, the offsets should be cut
off and set in sand, at a temperature of 65 deg. or 70 deg. The cuttings
root slowly and the plants for a time make a very slow growth. The
general cultural treatment is that of palms, which see.
[Illustration: Pansies]
PANSY is without doubt the most popular spring flower in cultivation.
The strains of seed are many, each containing great possibilities. The
culture is simple and the results are sure. Seed sown in August or
September, in boxes or a frame, will make plants large enough to reset
in November and bloom the following March; or they may be left until
March in open seed-beds before setting out. Also, if they are sown very
thinly in the frames they may remain undisturbed through the winter,
blooming very early the following spring. The frame should be protected
by mats, boards or other covering through the severe cold, and as the
sun gains strength, care should be taken to keep them from heaving by
alternate thawing and freezing. Seed sown in boxes in January or
February will make fine blooming plants by April, taking the place of
those blooming earlier.
The requisites for satisfactory Pansy culture are rich, moist, cool
soil, protection from the noonday sun, and attention to keeping them
from going to seed. As the ground becomes warm a mulch of leaf-mold or
other light material should be spread over the bed to retain moisture
and exclude heat. Spring and fall give the best bloom.
PARIS GREEN is the leading arsenical insecticide. It is usually applied
in a water spray, at the rate of 1 pound of the poison to 150 to 200
gallons of water. Add 1/2 pound of lime to prevent injury to foliage.
Potatoes will usually stand a stronger mixture; peaches and some other
plants do not need one so strong. Make the Paris Green into a paste with
water before adding it to the 200 gallons, that it may mix better. Paris
Green may be added to Bordeaux mixture with excellent results, counting
the Bordeaux as if it were so much water; in this case it will not be
necessary to add lime to the Paris Green. The Paris Green is used only
for chewing insects, as worms and beetles. London purple is used in the
same way.
[Illustration: Parsley grown in a box]
PARSLEY. The curled Parsley is used almost exclusively as a garnish for
meats and salads, although the flavor in soups is fine. The seed is slow
to germinate, and often the second or third sowing is made, thinking the
first is a failure; but usually after what would seem a long time the
young plants will be seen. When sown in the open ground, it should be
thinned to stand 3 or 4 inches in the row, the rows being 10 to 12
inches apart. A few plants in a border will give a supply for a large
family, and with a little protection will live over winter. Roots may be
lifted in the fall, put into boxes or old cans, and grown in a sunny
window for winter use.
PARSNIPS are one of the vegetables that are the better for the winter's
freeze, although they are of good quality if taken up after the fall
frosts and packed in soil, sand or moss in the cellar. The seed, which
must be not over one year old, should be sown as early as possible in
well prepared soil, firmed with the feet or roller. As the seed
germinates rather slowly the ground often becomes crusted or baked over
the seeds, in which case it should be broken and fined with a garden
rake. This operation often means the success of the crop. Radish or
cabbage seeds may be sown with the Parsnip seed to mark the row and
break the crust. One ounce of seed will sow 200 feet of drill. Thin to 6
inches apart in the row.
PEA. Who does not long for the time when early Peas are fit to use? And
how many know the great difference in quality between the smooth and the
wrinkled Peas? The first are a little the earliest to be planted and to
become fit for use, and on that account should be planted in a small
way. For the kitchen-garden the dwarf and half-dwarf varieties are the
best, as the tall kinds will need brush or wire to support them, causing
considerable trouble and labor and not being as neat in appearance. The
tall varieties yield a larger crop than the dwarfs, but as the rows must
be made from 3 to 5 feet apart, the dwarf ones, which are planted only 6
to 8 inches apart, will give as large a yield on the same area. Always
plant double rows of the tall varieties: that is, two rows from 4 to 6
inches apart, with the brush or wire between, the double rows being from
3 to 5 feet apart, according to varieties. The dwarf varieties should be
planted four rows in a block, each row being only 6 or 8 inches apart.
The Peas on the two center rows may be picked from the outside. Leave a
space of 2 feet and plant the same. At the time of the first planting
only the smooth varieties should be sown, but by the middle of April in
New York the ground will be warm and dry enough for the wrinkled sorts.
A succession should be sown that will come to maturity one after the
other, extending the season six or eight weeks. If a further supply is
wanted the early quick-maturing varieties may be sown in August, usually
giving a fair crop of Peas in September and early October. In the hot
weather of midsummer they often do not thrive so well. One quart of seed
will plant about 100 feet of drill.
PEA, EVERLASTING (_Lathyrus latifolius_). These Peas do not have the
colors or fragrance of the Sweet Pea, but are fine for planting against
rocks, stumps, or fences. They bloom through a long season, and, being
perfectly hardy, will live for years. Height 2 to 6 feet. Raised from
seeds or from cuttings, usually the former. Keep the seed pods picked
off to lengthen period of bloom.
PEA, SWEET. See _Sweet Pea_.
PEACH. Given the proper exposure, Peaches may be fruited in many
sections where now it is thought impossible to have a crop. It is
usually the practice of the amateur to set Peach trees in the shelter of
some building, exposed on the south or east to the sun, and "in a
pocket" as regards winds. This should be reversed, except in the close
vicinity of large bodies of water. The fruit buds of Peaches will stand
very cold weather when perfectly dormant, often as low as 12 deg. or 18
deg. below zero in New York; but if the buds once become swollen,
comparatively light freezing will destroy the crop. Therefore, if the
trees be set on elevations where a constant air drainage may be
obtained, sheltered, if at all, on the south and east, from the warming
influence of the sun, the buds will remain dormant until the ground
becomes warm, and the chances of a failure will be lessened. This advice
applies mostly to interior sections. A well drained, sandy loam or
gravelly soil suits the Peach better than a heavy soil; but if the
heavier soil is well drained, good crops may be obtained.
[Illustration: Peaches]
Peaches are short-lived at best, and one should be satisfied with three
or four crops from each tree. They bear young, usually a partial crop
the third year. If a crop may be had every other year until the trees
are eight or ten years old, they will have well repaid the effort of
cultivation. But they often bear twice this long. Young trees may be set
every four or five years to replace older ones, thus having trees at a
bearing age at all times on a small place. Trees should be set 14 to 18
feet apart each way. A good selection of varieties for home use would be
Early York, Alexander, Halo Early, Mountain Rose, Early Crawford,
Wheatland, Stump, Elberta, Stevens, Oldmixon, Late Crawford and Smock.
Peach trees are always bought when they are one year old, that is, one
year from the bud. For example, the bud is set in the fall of 1898. It
remains dormant until the spring of 1899, when it pushes into vigorous
growth; and in the fall of 1899 the tree is ready for sale. Peach trees
which are more than a year old are scarcely worth the buying. It is a
common practice, when setting Peach trees, to prune them back to a whip,
leaving a stub bearing not more than one bud where each branch is cut
off.
The three great enemies of the Peach are the borer, the yellows and the
curculio.
The borer is best handled by digging it out every spring and fall. Trees
which are attacked by the borer have an exudation of gum about the
crown. If the borers are dug out twice a year they will not get
sufficient start to make the operation very laborious. It is the only
sure way.
The yellows is a communicable disease, the cause of which is not
definitely known. It shows itself in the fruit ripening prematurely,
with distinct red spots which extend through the flesh, and later by the
throwing out of fine, branching, twiggy tufts along the main branches.
The only treatment is to pull out the trees and burn them. Other trees
may be set in the same places.
For a discussion of curculio, see the remarks under _Plum_.
PEAR. No fruit plantation should be considered complete without trees of
various kinds of Pears, ripening fruits from early in August till
winter. The late varieties are generally good keepers, and extend the
season into February, thus supplying fruit for six or seven months.
As the Pear grows to perfection on quince, the dwarf tree is peculiarly
adapted to planting on small home grounds, and is often used as a
boundary plant, or to serve the purpose of a screen. These dwarf trees
should be set deep--4 to 6 inches below the union--to prevent the stock
from growing. Dwarf trees may be set as near together as 10 to 16 feet,
while the standard or tall-growing Pears should be set 18 to 25 feet
apart. Trees are planted when two or three years old.
[Illustration: Bartlett Pears]
The Pear thrives on clay soil, if well underdrained, and for this reason
may succeed in places where other fruits might fail. A good, steady
growth should be maintained, but the use of nitrogenous manures should
be avoided, as they tend to make a rank growth and invite attacks of
Pear blight, which is the worst enemy of the Pear. For summer fruits:
Osband's Summer, Bartlett, Clapp and Manning Elizabeth are among the
best. For autumn: Duchess, Flemish Beauty, Bosc, Louise Bonne, Seckel
and Sheldon. For winter fruit: Anjou, Clairgeau, Lawrence and Winter
Nelis are excellent. Kieffer is an excellent commercial fruit, but it is
too poor to be given space in the home ground except as an ornamental
tree.
Of the Pear blight, Duggar writes as follows:
"REMEDIES. (_a_) _The knife and the saw._--With a disease working as
this does, it is very evident that there is no chance either for cure or
prevention by means of spraying. The heroic treatment of the knife and
saw must be adopted and vigorously pursued, as has been claimed from the
beginning. The blackened leaves alone must not serve as signs of the
diseased area, but one must examine carefully the branches and remove
them 6 inches or more below the lowest discolorations. Often before
cutting, pruners slice the bark downward to see where the injury ends.
This should not be done; it is better to be sure that you are below the
infected area, and run no such risk of infecting anew the tissues below.
The cut surfaces of larger limbs and branches should be painted for
protection against wound rots.
"(_b_) _When to cut._--Cutting out diseased portions should be done
whenever the disease is evident. This may check the injuries
temporarily; but it has been shown that much can be done in the autumn
to prevent the establishment of the disease the following spring. It has
long been known that the disease may pass the winter in the branches by
a slow growth in the neighborhood of late infections. Thorough work of
eradication should especially be performed after the season of growth.
Then cut out every diseased branch and burn, so that in the spring when
the succulent growth begins again, there will be few places in which
insects may come in contact with the bacterial exudations.
"(_c_) _Conditions favoring the disease._--The knife is our only hope of
extermination; but there are undoubtedly conditions which favor the
disease. In a succulent, rapidly growing tree the bacteria find more
favorable conditions for their development than in one which grows
slowly, yet with sufficient vigor. For this reason, too much nitrogenous
manure is dangerous; and, for the same reason, a succulent growth
induced by severe pruning should be avoided."
[Illustration: Pelargonium, or Geranium]
PELARGONIUMS. Here belong the plants known as Geraniums--the most
satisfactory of house-plants, and extensively used as bedding plants. No
plants will give better returns in leaf and flower; and these features,
added to the ease of propagation, make them general favorites. Cuttings
of partially ripened wood root very easily, grow to blooming size in a
short time, and, either planted out or grown in a pot, make fine
decorations. The common or "Fish" Geraniums are much more satisfactory
when not more than a year old. Take cuttings from the old plants at
least once a year. In four or five months the young plants begin to
bloom. Plants may be taken up from the garden and potted, but they
rarely give as much satisfaction as young, vigorous subjects. Repot
frequently until they are in 4- to 5-inch pots; then let them bloom.
The show Pelargoniums are those commonly known as Lady Washington
Geraniums. These have but one period of bloom, usually in April, but
they make up in size and coloring. This section is more difficult to
manage as a house plant than the common Geranium, needing more direct
light to keep it stocky, and being troubled by insects. Still, all the
trouble taken to grow them will be well repaid by the handsome blossoms.
Take cuttings in late spring, after flowering, and blooming plants may
be had the following year. Good results are sometimes secured by keeping
these plants two or three years. Cut back after each blooming season.
For house culture the Geraniums need a rich, fibrous loam, with the
addition of a little sand; good drainage is also an essential.
PEONY. The herbaceous Peony has long had a place in the garden, and is
now in general use as an early flowering plant. It is perfectly hardy,
and free from the many diseases and insects that attack so many fine
plants. The single and semi-double varieties are very fine, the flowers
becoming large as the plant becomes well established. The herbaceous
section is readily increased by division. The tree Peonies are increased
by grafting. They grow in some cases to the height of 3 or more feet,
and are covered with large, very double flowers of rich colors. Height 2
to 3 feet.
PEPPERS are tender while young, although they will endure a heavy frost
in the fall. Their culture is that recommended for eggplants. A small
seedsman's packet of seed will be sufficient for a large number of
plants, say two hundred. The large Bell Peppers are the mildest, and are
used for making "stuffed Peppers" and other dishes. The small, hot
Peppers are used for seasoning and sauces.
[Illustration: Bell Pepper]
PETUNIA. The improvement made in the size and markings of the Petunia
has been marked of late. Now almost every shade of color may be found,
aside from yellow. A bed of Petunias makes a mass of color equaled by
few other flowers. They also make very fine single plants for pots,
baskets or window-boxes, blooming freely through the winter, and
emitting a delicate fragrance. The single varieties grow freely from
seed, but if plants of one special color are wanted cuttings should be
made. These cuttings root easily and bloom early. Cuttings will have to
be made of the double varieties to increase their number. For common
Petunias, sow seeds where plants are to grow, in a warm, sunny place;
or, for earlier bloom, seeds may be started in the house. Thin to 8 to
12 inches apart. The season of bloom is cut short only by frost or other
causes.
[Illustration: Petunia]
PHLOX. Both the perennial and the annual Phloxes are most valuable.
Excepting the petunia, no plant will give the profusion of bloom with as
little care as the annual Phlox (_Phlox Drummondii_). Masses of one
color or of contrasting colors make very effective ribbon borders or
edging beds. The perennial species are very showy, having almost as wide
a range of color as the annuals. They grow to the height of 3 feet. They
are most effective in the back row of a border. The perennials have been
much improved of late. They are hardy.
The annual Phlox is propagated by seed sown early in the spring in the
border, or in March in boxes and transplanted. The perennial Phlox is
increased by division of the roots, the flowers being larger and more
highly colored by dividing at least every three years. The annual Phlox
blooms early, and continues until late in the fall. The perennial blooms
from July to frost.
PINK. See _Dianthus_ and _Carnation_.
PLUM. Of Plums there are three general or common types: first, the
common Domestica or European Plum, which gives rise to all the older
varieties, like Lombard, Bradshaw, Green Gage, the Prunes, the Egg
Plums, the Damsons, and the like; second, the Japanese Plums, which
have become popular within the last ten years, and which are adapted to
a wider range of country than the Domesticas; third, the native Plums of
several species or types, which are adapted to the plains, the middle
and southern states, where the Domestica Plums do not thrive, and some
kinds to the cold North.
Wherever the Domestica and Japanese Plums can be grown, the native Plums
are not destined to become popular; but many of the natives are much
hardier than others, and are therefore adapted to regions in which the
Domestica and Japanese are not safe. Others of them are well adapted to
the middle and southern states. The Domestica and Japanese Plums are
considerably hardier than peaches, but not so hardy as the apple. The
northern limit of their general cultivation is the southern peninsula of
Michigan, central and southern Ontario, central New York and central New
England.
Plums thrive on a great variety of soils, but they do better, as a rule,
on those which are rather heavy and have a considerable content of clay.
In fact, many of the varieties will thrive on clay as hard as that upon
which pears will grow. On the other hand, they often thrive well upon
light, and even almost sandy soils.
The trees are set when they are two and three years from the bud. It is
preferable to have Plum trees on stocks of the same species, but it is
not always possible to secure them at the nurseries. In the South, Plums
are worked mostly on peach roots, and these make excellent trees where
the climate is not too severe, and especially upon the lighter lands on
which they are planted in the South. In the North the larger part of the
Plum stocks are grown on the Myrobalan Plum roots. This Myrobalan is an
Old World species of Plum, of smaller growth than the Domestica. This
stock, therefore, tends to dwarf the tree, and it is also likely to
throw up sprouts from the roots. Plum trees are set from 12 to 18 feet
apart. Many growers like to set them 8 feet apart in rows, and have the
rows from 16 to 20 feet apart.
Plums are pruned much the same as apples and pears. That is, the top is
thinned out from year to year, and all superfluous branches and broken
or diseased wood are removed. If the soil is very strong and the trees
are close together, it may be well to head them in a little each year,
especially those varieties which grow very strong and robust.
The varieties of Plums are very numerous. Of the Domestica or European
type, some of the best are Bradshaw, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Reine
Claude, Coe Golden Drop, Quackenbos, Fellemburg, German Prune, Copper.
The Lombard is the most cosmopolitan variety, and is always sure to give
a crop, but the quality is not so good as that of the others mentioned.
For culinary purposes, some of the Damsons, which are very small-fruited
varieties, are excellent. Of Japanese Plums, the best so far tested for
the North are Red June, Abundance, Burbank, Chabot and Satsuma. For a
very early cherry-like Plum for home use, the Berger is excellent. Of
the native Plums, the most cosmopolitan variety is Wild Goose. Excellent
varieties are Weaver, Quaker, Forest Garden, Wayland, and others.
[Illustration: Plums]
There are four leading difficulties in the growing of Plums--leaf
blight, fruit rot, black knot, and curculio.
The leaf blight usually comes on about midsummer, the leaves becoming
spotted and dropping off. The remedy for this trouble is to spray
thoroughly with Bordeaux mixture, beginning soon after the fruits have
set, and before the trouble begins to show.
The fruit rot may be prevented by the same means--that is, by spraying
with Bordeaux mixture. It is usually best to begin just after the fruits
are well set. A very important consideration in the checking of this
disease is to thin the fruit so that it does not hang in clusters. If
one fruit touches another, the rot spreads from fruit to fruit in spite
of the spraying. Some varieties, like Lombard and Abundance, are
susceptible to this injury.
The black knot is best kept in check by cutting out the knots whenever
they can be seen, and burning them. As soon as the leaves drop, the
orchard should be gone over and all knots taken out. Orchards which are
thoroughly sprayed with Bordeaux mixture for the leaf blight and
fruit-rot fungus are less liable to attacks of black knot.
The curculio, or the insect which is the parent of the worms in the
fruit, is the inveterate enemy of the Plum and other stone fruits. The
mature beetle lays the eggs in the fruits when they are very small,
usually beginning its work about as soon as the flowers fall. These eggs
soon hatch, and the little maggot bores into the fruit. Those fruits
which are attacked whilst very young ordinarily fall from the tree, but
those which are attacked when they are half or more grown may adhere to
the tree, but are wormy and gummy at the picking time. The mature
beetles are sluggish in the mornings, and are easily jarred from the
trees. Taking advantage of this fact, the fruit-grower may jar them into
sheets; or, in large orchards, into a large canvas hopper, which is
wheeled from tree to tree upon a wheelbarrow-like frame, and under the
apex of which is a tin can into which the insects roll. There is a slit
or opening in one side of the hopper, which allows the tree to stand
nearly in the middle of the canvas. The operator then gives the tree two
or three sharp jars with a padded pole or mallet. The edges of the
hopper are then quickly shaken with the hands and the insects roll down
into the tin receptacle. In this receptacle there is kerosene oil, or it
may be emptied from time to time. Just how long this machine is to be
run in the orchard will depend entirely upon circumstances. It is
advisable to use the catcher soon after the blossoms fall, for the
purpose of finding out how abundant the insects are. If a few insects
are caught upon each tree, there is indication that there are enough of
the pests to make serious trouble. If after a few days the insects seem
to have disappeared, it will not be necessary to continue the hunt. In
some years, especially in those succeeding a very heavy crop, it may be
necessary to run the curculio-catcher every morning for four or five
weeks; but, as a rule, it will not be necessary to use it oftener than
two or three times a week during that season; and sometimes the season
may be shortened by one-half. The insects fall most readily when the
weather is cool, and it, therefore, is best to get through the whole
orchard, if possible, before noon. Upon cloudy days, however, the
insects may be caught all day. A smart man can attend to 300 to 400
full-bearing trees in six hours if the ground has been well rolled or
firmed, as it should be before the bugging operation begins. But whether
the operation is troublesome or not, it is the price of Plums, and the
grower must not expect to succeed long without it. The same treatment is
essential to the saving of peaches and rarely, also, of sour cherries.
POPPY. These showy annuals and perennials should be more generally
grown. Nothing will lighten up a corner better than the hardy oriental
Poppy, or the solid crimson or scarlet annual Poppies. All of the
varieties grow readily from seed, which, in most cases, should be sown
where the plants are to bloom. The seeds of the oriental and the Iceland
Poppy may be sown in pots, the plants wintered over in a frame and
carefully planted out the second spring. The Poppy is very impatient of
root disturbance, however, and the safest method is to sow the seed
where wanted.
PORTULACA, or ROSE MOSS. Brilliant little tender annuals, low-growing
and sun-loving. They usually seed themselves, and once established will
continue for years. Many of the varieties will produce a good percentage
of flowers as double as roses and of many colors. Seed should be sown
where wanted. They bloom freely in light, sandy soil in the full blaze
of the sun.
POTATO. The common practice of growing Potatoes in ridges or elevated
hills is wrong, unless the soil is so wet that this practice is
necessary to insure proper drainage; but in this case the land is not
adapted to the growing of Potatoes. If the land is elevated into ridges
or hills, there is a great loss of moisture by means of evaporation.
During the last cultivating the Potatoes may be hilled up slightly in
order to cover the tubers; but the hills should not be made in the
beginning. Land for Potatoes should be rather loamy in character, and
ought to have a liberal supply of potash, either naturally or supplied
in the drill, by means of an application of sulfate of potash. See that
the land is deeply plowed or spaded, so that the roots can penetrate
deeper. Plant the Potatoes 3 or 4 inches below the natural surface of
the ground. It is ordinarily best to drop the pieces in drills. A
continuous drill may be made by means of dropping one piece every 6
inches, but it is usually thought best to drop two pieces about every 12
to 18 inches. The drills are far enough apart to allow good cultivation.
If horse cultivation is used, the drills should be at least 3 feet
apart.
[Illustration: Potatoes]
Small Potatoes are considered not to be so good as large ones for
planting. One reason is because too many sprouts arise from each one,
and these sprouts are apt to crowd each other. The same is true of the
tip end or seed end of the tuber. Even when it is cut off, the eyes are
so numerous that one secures many weak shoots rather than two or three
strong ones. It is ordinarily best to cut the Potatoes to two or three
eyes, leaving as much tuber as possible with each piece. From seven to
eight bushels of Potatoes are required to plant an acre.
For a very early crop in the garden, tubers are sometimes sprouted in
the cellar. When the sprouts are 4 to 6 inches high the tubers are
carefully planted. It is essential that the sprouts are not broken in
the handling. In this practice, also, the tubers are first cut into
large pieces, so that they will not dry out too much.
The staple remedy for the Potato bug is Paris green, 1 pound of poison
to 150 to 200 gallons of water, with a little lime (see _Paris Green_).
For the blight, spray with Bordeaux mixture, and spray thoroughly.
Bordeaux mixture will also keep away the flea beetle to a large extent.
POTATO, SWEET. See _Sweet Potato_.
POTTING. The operation of potting a plant, while in itself simple, is
very often associated with success or failure in the growth of the
plant. The first and most common reason of failure is using too large a
pot; the second, imperfect drainage; and the third, the poor physical
condition of the soil.
[Illustration: Too deep]
[Illustration: Plant too high]
A small-rooted cutting or a feeble plant should have a pot only large
enough to hold soil sufficient to surround the roots to the extent of 1
or 2 inches. More soil would hold too much moisture, thus excluding the
air. As the plants grow and the ball of dirt becomes well covered with
white roots, and before these roots become dark in color, the plant
should be repotted, using a pot one size larger and usually a little
richer soil. This operation should continue until the plant has made the
desired growth. If it is desired to grow a geranium, fuchsia, begonia,
or plants of a similar character, large enough for a window plant--say
to the height or breadth of two feet,--a 6-inch pot will be large
enough, provided the soil is rich enough to continue the growth of the
plant while in flower. It often happens that pots of the various sizes
are not to hand; and in case the pot is too large, it should have the
drainage increased until it will take up as much room in the bottom as
the pot is too large. Bear in mind that the soil should not hold free
water. After the plant has filled the pot with roots it will often be
necessary to supply more food as the soil becomes exhausted. This may be
done by digging out the top soil down to the young, white roots,
replacing with new soil in which a little rotted manure, a pinch of
bone-meal or other plant-food, has been added. Liquid manure may be
used. This liquid manure is made from well rotted cow-, horse-, or
sheep-manure thrown into a tub or barrel, covered with water, and
allowed to stand until the strength of the manure is soaked out. This
liquid should be diluted before using with clear water until it has the
color of weak coffee. If used with judgment, nothing will cause a better
growth or a greater quantity of flowers.
[Illustration: Too full]
[Illustration: Careless]
The drainage may consist of any coarse material, such as old broken
pots, small stones, pieces of charcoal, and the like, over which should
be placed small broken sod or a little moss to keep the dirt from
washing through and eventually stopping up the crevices through which
the excess water should flow.
[Illustration: Good!]
A safe rule to follow in first potting the majority of house-plants, is
to use one-third turf-loam, one-third leaf-mold or decayed leaves, and
one-third sand, thoroughly mixed. Reduce the amount of leaf-mold and
sand at successive pottings, adding a little well rotted manure, until,
when the plants have been potted in 6-inch pots, at least four-fifths of
the soil is turfy loam. Press the soil firmly in the pot and around the
plant. Never fill the pot level full of soil, else the plant cannot be
watered.
PRICKLY POPPIES, or ARGEMONES, are hardy annuals, with large, bluish
striking foliage and yellow flowers. They are easily grown in a warm
soil and sunny exposure. Sow the seeds where the plants are to stand.
Thin to 12 to 18 inches apart. They grow 2 feet high.
PRIMULAS, or PRIMROSES, are of various kinds. One of them is the
Auricula (which see). Others are hardy border plants. The true or
English cowslip is one of these; also the plants commonly known as
Polyanthus. Hardy Primulas grow 6 to 10 inches high, sending up trusses
of yellow and red flowers in early spring. Propagated by division, or by
seed sown a year before the plants are wanted. Give them rich, moist
soil.
The Primula of the winter-garden is mostly the _P. Sinensis_ (Chinese
Primrose), grown very extensively by florists as a Christmas plant. With
the exception of the full double varieties, it is usually grown from
seed. The seed sown in March or April will make large flowering plants
by November or December, if the young plants are shifted to larger pots
as needed. The seed should be sown on the flat surface of the soil,
composed of equal parts loam, leaf-mold and sand. The seed should be
pressed down lightly and the soil watered carefully to prevent the seed
from being washed into the soil. Very fine sphagnum moss may be sifted
over the seed, or the box set in a moist place, where the soil will
remain wet until the seeds germinate. When the plants are large enough
they should be potted separately or pricked out into shallow boxes.
Frequent pottings or transplantings should be given until September,
when they should be in the pots in which they are to bloom. The two
essentials to successful growth through the hot summer are shade and
moisture. Height 6 to 8 inches. Bloom in winter and spring.
At present the "baby Primrose" (_Primula Forbesi_) is popular. It is
treated in essentially the same way as the Sinensis. All Primulas are
impatient of a dry atmosphere and fluctuating conditions.
PRINCE'S FEATHER. See _Amarantus_.
PRUNES are varieties of plums with firm, meaty flesh, and which readily
make dried fruit. Some of the Prunes are commercially grown in the East,
but they are sold in the green state as other plums are; and they are
adapted to all the uses of other plums. Prunes are cultivated like other
plums.
PRUNING. There are two general types of inquiry connected with the
question of Pruning: First, that which has to do with the healing of the
wounds; and second, that which has to do with the shaping of the top and
the general welfare of the tree.
[Illustration: Improper way to make the wound]
[Illustration: Proper way]
[Illustration: Before]
[Illustration: After]
When a limb is cut off, it heals by being covered with callus tissue,
which grows out from the cambium zone between the bark and wood and
rolls over the face of the wound. The hard wood itself never heals;
that is, the cells do not have the power of making new cells; therefore
the old wood is simply covered up, or hermetically sealed as a cap is
put on a fruit jar. It is evident, therefore, that no kind of dressing
will hasten the healing of this wound. The merit of a dressing is to
keep the wound sound and healthy until the callus naturally covers it
over. All things considered, the best dressing is probably thick
linseed-oil paint.
So far as the wound is concerned, the best time for Pruning is
ordinarily in the spring, when the vital activities are beginning; but
the season also influences fruit-bearing and wood-making, and these
questions should be considered. Those wounds heal best which are on
strong main limbs, where there is a full flow of nutritious sap. The
limb should be cut off so that the wound is parallel with the trunk upon
which it sits, and close to it. That is to say, the longer the stub, the
less rapid in general is the healing of the wound. It is the custom to
cut the limb just outside the bulge at its base; but, in most cases, it
is better to cut through this bulge, and to have the wound close to the
main trunk.
[Illustration: Before pruning]
[Illustration: After pruning]
Heavy Pruning of the top tends to the production of wood; therefore the
severe Pruning of orchard trees, following three or four years of
neglect, sets the trees into heavy wood-bearing, and makes them more
vigorous. Such treatment generally tends away from fruit-bearing. This
heavy Pruning is usually necessary in neglected orchards, however, to
bring trees back into shape and to revitalize them; but the best
Pruning-treatment of an orchard is to Prune it a little every year. It
should be so Pruned that the tops of the trees will be open, that no two
limbs will interfere with each other, and so that the fruit itself will
not be so abundant as to overload the tree. Pruning is a means of
thinning. In general, it is best to prune orchard trees late in winter
or early in spring. It is ordinarily better, however, to leave peaches
and other tender fruits until after the buds have swollen, or even after
the flowers have fallen, in order that one may determine how much they
have been injured by the winter. Grapevines should be Pruned in winter
or not later (in New York) than the first of March. If Pruned later than
this, they may bleed. The above remarks will apply to other trees as
well as to fruits.
[Illustration: Sickle saw]
[Illustration: Combined saw and knife. Goes on a long handle]
[Illustration: Curved Pruning saw]
[Illustration: Common double edge saw]
It should be borne in mind that Pruning has two objects: one is to
merely trim the tree or to make it assume some designed shape; the other
is to make the tree more vigorous or more fruitful, or to make some
other change in its character. These ideals are well illustrated in the
Pruning of ornamental shrubs. If one wants to have the shrubs sheared
into some particular shape, the shearing may be done at almost any time
of the year; in fact, it is better to do it two or three times each year
in order to keep the trees trim and neat. If, however, the desire is to
secure more flowers, the case is a very different one. Some shrubs and
trees bear their flowers on the wood of the preceding year. Such, for
example, are the early flowering shrubs like lilacs and the snowballs.
The flower buds are made the fall before. In this case, Pruning the
shrub in winter cuts off the flower buds. The ideal time for Pruning
them, therefore, is just after the flowers have passed. The flower buds
will form later in the season for the production of the flowers the
following spring. Other shrubs, however (particularly those which
blossom late in the season), bear on wood of the current year's growth.
That is, the clematis blossoms in late summer and fall on wood which
grew that same season. The greater the quantity of strong wood which
grows in any season, therefore, the greater the quantity of bloom in
that season. With such shrubs, it is well to Prune in winter or early
spring, and to Prune rather heavily. The abundance of new shoots which
arise may be expected to bear flowers later on in the same season.
Following are some shrubs which, for best results in flower-bearing, may
be Pruned when dormant (in winter): camellia, Jackmani type of clematis,
cornus, hibiscus (shrubby), hydrangea, many loniceras or honeysuckles,
philadelphus or mock-orange, some spireas.
Shrubs which may be Pruned when in leaf (just after blooming): lilac,
deutzia, weigelas, exochorda, spring-flowering loniceras, tree peony,
flowering almond, some spireas and viburnums, wistaria.
The marginal illustrations show how apple, pear and plum trees may be
Pruned when received from the nursery. Cut back the roots to fresh,
unbroken wood.
[Illustration: Waters' tree Pruner--for limbs out of reach]
[Illustration: Pruning shears]
[Illustration: An excellent Pruning saw. The blade is on a swivel]
Various kinds of useful tree Pruners are shown in the margins. See also
_Scraping_.
PUMPKIN. See _Squash_.
PYRETHRUM. The little, low-growing yellow-foliaged Feverfew, called
Golden Feather, is used extensively for edging and design beds.
Propagated by cuttings, as are geraniums.
The tall-growing species are very fine border plants, being easy to grow
and having showy flowers, in colors ranging from white through lilac to
crimson. Their flowers appear in June and last a month, when, if the
plants are cut down, they will flower again in the fall. The Persian
insect powder is made from the dried flower heads of some of these
species. Propagated by seed or division. Hardy and fine.
RADISHES should be grown quickly in order to have them at their best.
They become tough and woody if grown slowly or allowed to stay in the
ground too long. A light soil, well enriched, will grow most of the
early varieties to table size in from three to five weeks. To have a
supply through the early months, sowings should be made every two weeks.
For summer, the large white or gray varieties are best. The winter
varieties may be sown in September, harvested before severe frosts, and
stored in sand in a cool cellar. When they are to be used, if thrown
into cold water for a short time they will regain their crispness. Sow
Radishes thickly in drills, 12 to 18 inches apart. Thin as needed.
[Illustration: Spring Radishes]
RASPBERRY. Both the red and black Raspberries are essentials of a good
garden. A few plants of each will produce a supply of berries for a
family through six or eight weeks, provided both early and late
varieties are planted. A cool situation, soil that will hold moisture
without being wet, and a thorough preparation of the ground, are the
conditions necessary to success. The black-cap Raspberries should be set
3 to 4 feet apart, the rows 6 or 7 feet; the red varieties 3 feet
apart, the rows 5 feet apart. Spring setting is usually preferable.
As with blackberries and dewberries, Raspberries bear on last year's
canes, and these canes bear but once. Therefore cut out the old canes
after fruiting, or before the following spring, thus destroying such
insects and fungi as may have lodged on them. New canes should have
grown in the meantime, 3 to 6 to a hill.
The first year after the plants are set the canes should be pinched back
when they reach the height of from 30 to 36 inches. If a very vigorous
growth has been made the first season two canes may be left for
fruiting, but in the case of weak growth, only one cane should be
allowed to fruit. In case of low-growing varieties--those that have been
pinched back short--a mulch of straw or grass around the plants at
fruiting time will help to hold the moisture, and also serve to keep the
fruits clean in case of heavy rains. A Raspberry plantation will last
three to five years. The black varieties are propagated by layers, the
tip of a cane being laid in the soil in midsummer; by fall the tip will
have taken root and may be separated. The red varieties are propagated
by suckers from the roots. In nurseries both blacks and reds are often
propagated by means of root-cuttings.
[Illustration: Black Raspberries]
For red rust, pull out the plant, root and branch, and burn it. Short
rotations--fruiting the plants only two or three years--and burning the
old canes and trimmings, will do much to keep Raspberry plantations
healthy. Spraying will have some effect in combating anthracnose.
Raspberries may be bent over to the ground so that the snow will protect
them, in severe climates.
Varieties are always changing in favor. Good black-caps are Gregg, Ohio,
and Kansas. Good red and purple sorts are Shaffer, Cuthbert, Loudon, and
others.
RHODODENDRONS are broad-leaved evergreen shrubs which require a fibrous
or peaty soil and protection from bleak winds and hot suns in winter. It
is well to plant them amongst trees for protection. In the North, mulch
heavily with leaves in the fall. See that the soil is made fibrous with
leaf-mold or other material. Rhododendrons bloom from winter buds:
therefore prune just after flowering, if at all.