This warp has to be beamed in stripes. Make out a diagram for the warper
the same as shown in Fig. 95.
[Page 98]
[Illustration: Fig. 95]
#Harness#--Fig. 95 shows how to make a diagram of a harness for a Pekin.
The heddles are marked per one shaft. As the repp stripes are only small
ones, we use for the satin a full harness, that is, one without open spaces
for the repp stripe. All together we have in the satin warp 6888 single and
double ends to draw in; of these 252 ends are used for binders, on both
sides of the repp stripes. Thus remain for
8 shafts, 6636 heddles per 20½ inches
1 " 40 " " 1 "
#Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 144 picks, 1 end.
#Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 6132 ends (1680 ends sky).
1 end = 106 yards.
1000 yards = 1,35 drams (sky 1,15 drams).
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).
6132×106×1,35×104
------------------- = 3,56 lbs. for black, or 3 lbs. 8,96 ozs.
1000×256×100
1680×106×1,15×104
------------------- = 0,83 lbs. for sky, or 0 lbs. 13,28 ozs.
1000×256×100
[Page 99]
? lbs. = 504 ends.
1 end = 110 yards.
840 yards = 1 skein.
(No. 100/2) 50 skeins = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).
504×110×104
------------- = 1,37 lbs. scarlet cotton, or 1 lb. 5,92 ozs.
840×50×100
#Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 100 yards.
1 yard = 36 inches.
1 inch = 144 picks.
1 pick = 21 inches.
36 inches = 1 yard.
1000 yards = 2,8 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 108 (8% waste).
100×36×144×21×2,8×108
----------------------- = 3,57 lbs., or 3 lbs. 9,12 ozs.
36×1000×256×100
* * * * *
[Page 100]
JACQUARD WEAVES
Jacquard weaves usually show on a plain ground figure or flower effects. To
obtain these effects the ground is made of one weave, say taffeta, while
the figures or flowers are produced in another weave, say satin.
We enter the warp through a jacquard harness, and according to the repeat
use a 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200, etc., hook jacquard machine, which means
200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200 ends per repeat.
With a 600-hook machine a larger repeat can be produced than with a
499-hook machine. For instance, if we want to make a cloth the figures of
which are to be two inches apart, it is a two-inch repeat, and use the
count of 50/4 or 200 ends per inch, we can use a 400-hook machine, 2 in. x
200 ends. But we can make this cloth also on a 1200-hook machine, only the
repeat must be designed three times. The advantage of using a 1200-hook
machine with the count 50/4 is that 2, 3, 4, 6-inch repeats can be
produced, while with a 400-hook machine, only a 2-inch repeat can be made.
There is no end to all the different weaves and the possible flower and
other pattern effects that can be made with the jacquard machine. For a
jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.
* * * * *