If all the foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a piece of
the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine the exact
figure at which he can produce the article. That this must be done with
great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the calculator
[Page 73]
must know in the first place the raw stock prices, and also be acquainted
with the details of the manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid
therein. As a rule, the manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering
all the items of labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis
for his calculations.
A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the
methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best
adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.
[Page 75]
DISPOSITION 1
_Taffeta glacé_
[Illustration: Fig. 89]
[Page 76]
#Length and Width#--One piece 100 yards long, 18¾ inches wide.
#Stock and Dye#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams,
brown, bright, 14/16 oz.
_Filling._--Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams,
gold, bright 14/16 oz.
#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 70 dents at 3 single ends.
" 18¾ " 1313 "
add 13 " = 1% for shrinkage
----
Total 1326 dents.
#Drawing in#--1st edge, 9 dents at 3 double ends.
Ground, 1308 " at 3 single "
2d edge, 9 " at 3 double "
on 6 shafts, straight through.
#Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 27 double ends, brown.
Ground, 3924 single " "
2d edge, 27 double " "
----
Total 4032 single ends.
Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.
#Harness#--6 shafts, 3978 heddles per 19 inches.
1 " 35 " " 1 "
#Reduction of Filling#--Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.
#Warp Calculation#--? lbs = 4032 ends.
1 end = 110 yards.
1000 yards = 1,47 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).
4032×110×1,47×104
------------------- = 2,65 lbs., or 2 lbs. 10,4 oz.
1000×256×100
[Page 77]
#Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 100 yards
1 yard = 36 inches.
1 inch = 102 \ picks.
2 / ends.
1 pick = 19 inches.
36 inches = 1 yard
1000 yards = 1,65 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 108 (8% waste).
100×36×102×2×19×165×108
------------------------- = 2,73 lbs., or 2 lbs. 11,7 ozs.
36×1000×256×100
* * * *
[Page 79]
DISPOSITION 2
_Surah 3-1_
[Illustration: Fig. 90]
[Page 80]
#Length and Width#--1 piece 50 yards long, 23½ in. wide.
#Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,30 drams = 20/24 deniers,
black, bright, 40/50% = 22/24 ozs.
_Filling._--Cotton No. 120/2 black.
#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 80 dents at 2 single ends.
" 23½ inch, 1880 "
add 36 " = 2% for shrinkage.
----
Total 1916 dents.
#Drawing-in#--1st edge, 8 dents, 2 double ends.
Ground, 1900 " 2 single "
2d edge, 8 " 2 double "
on 4 shafts, straight draw.
#Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 16 double ends, black.
Ground, 3800 single " "
2d edge, 16 double " "
----
Total 3864 single ends.
Warp 54 yards long = 8% for take up.
#Harness#--4 shafts, 3832 heddles per 24 inches.
1 " 40 " " 1 "
#Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 120 picks, 1 end.
#Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4264 ends.
1 end = 54 yards.
1000 yards = 1,30 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).
3864×54×1,30×104
------------------ = 1,10 lbs., or 1 lb. 1,06 oz.
1000×256×100
[Page 81]
#Filling Calculation#-?lbs. = 50 yards.
1 yard = 36 inches.
1 inch = 120 picks.
1 pick = 24 inches.
36 inches = 1 yard
840 yards = 1 skein.
(No. 120/2) 60 skeins = 1 lb.
100 = 110 (10% waste).
50×36×120×24×110
------------------ = 3.14 lbs., or 3 lbs. 2.24 ozs.
36×840×60×100
* * * *
[Page 83]
#DISPOSITION 3#
_Satin Duchesse._
[Illustration: Fig. 91]
[Page 84]
#Length and Width#--One warp 300 yards long, 10 pieces of 60 yards
23 inches wide, 2 pieces in width, with one cut edge.
#Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._-- Ital. Organ., 1-55/100 drams, black,
bright, 20/22 oz.
_Filling._-- Jap. Tram., 1-8/10 and 2-7/10
drams, black, souple, 40/44 oz.
We should use for this fabric 1 end filling, 5-thread, 4-5/10 drams,
but as we have none of this size on hand, we take: 1 end, 2 thread,
1-8/10 drams, and 1 end, 3 thread, 2-7/10 drams.
#Reed Calculation#--1 inch, 66 dents, 4 single ends.
46 " 3036 "
54 " (1¾% shrinkage).
----
Total ... 3090 dents.
#Drawing-in#-- {
1st edge, { 2 dents, 6×2, black.
{ 13 " 4×2, white.
Ground, 1514 " 4×1, black.
{ 2 " 6×2 "
Cut Edge { 1 " 2×4, "
{ 3 " empty.
{ 1 " 2×4, "
Ground, 1514 " 4×1, black.
2d edge, { 2 " 6×2, black.
{ 13 " 4×2, white.
Satin on 8 shafts, straight draw.
Cross-thread for split edge on 3 shafts, see design.
#Warping Ticket#-- Edge, { 12/2 black. }
{ 52/2 white. }
Ground, 6056/1 black. } twice over.
Edge, { 52/2 white. }
{ 12/2 black. }
12208 ends black, { 318 yards long.
416 " white, { = 6% shrinkage.
2/4 black for ground thread, 300 yards long.
2/4 " " whip " 360 " "
each one on a separate little roll.
[Page 85]
#Harness#--8 shafts, 12368 heddles, 47 in
1 " 33 " 1 "
for the split edge 3 shafts, of which one has only half a heddle.
#Filling#--Per 1 in., 80 picks, 2 ends (as described before).
#Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 12224 ends, black (416 white).
1 end = 318 yards.
1,000 yards = 1,55 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).
(416) 12224×318×1.55×104
-------------------- = 24,477 lbs. org. black.
1000×256×100 = 0,833 " " white.
#Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 300 yards.
1 yard = 36 inches.
1 inch = 80 picks.
1 pick = 47 inches.
36 inches = 1 yard.
1000 yards = 4,5 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 108 (8% waste).
300×36×80×47×4,5×108
---------------------- = 21,414 lbs.
36×1000×256×100
* * * *
[Page 87]
DISPOSITION 4
_Armure Satinée_
[Illustration: Fig. 92]
[Page 88]
#Length and Width#--One piece 60 yards long, 19 in. wide.
#Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Jap. Organ., 1,48 drams, black, bright,
18/20 oz.
_Filling._--3 threads Jap. Tram., 2,95 drams,
black, bright, 24/26 oz.
#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 60 dents×4 single ends.
" 19 " 1140 "
32 " (3% for shrinkage).
----
Total . . . 1172 dents.
#Drawing-in#--1st edge, 12 dents × 4 double.
Ground, 1148 " × 4 single.
2d edge, 12 " × 4 double.
on 12 shafts, straight through,
or on 6 shafts, as design indicates.
#Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 48/2 black.
Ground, 4592/1 "
2d edge, 48/2 "
------
Total . . . 4784 single ends 64 yards long.
=6½% for take up.
#Harness#--6 shafts, 4688 heddles per 19½ inches.
1 " 40 " " 1 "
#Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 104 picks, 2 ends.
#Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4784 ends.
1 end = 64 yards.
1000 yards = 1,48 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).
4784×64×1,48×104
------------------ = 1,84 lbs., or 1 lb. 13,44 ozs.
1000×256×100
[Page 89]
#Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 60 yards.
1 yard = 36 inches.
1 inch = 104 } picks.
2 } ends.
1 pick = 19½ inches.
36 inches = 1 yard.
1000 yards = 2,95 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 108 (8% waste).
60×36×104×2×19,5×2,95×108
--------------------------- = 3,03 lbs., or 3 lbs. 0,48 ozs.
36×1000×256×100
* * * *
[Page 91]
DISPOSITION 5
_Surface Printed Armure._
[Illustration: Fig. 93]
[Page 92]
#Length and Width#--One piece 50 yards long, 18½ in. wide.
#Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,50 drams, 24/28 deniers,
white bright, pure dye.
_Filling._--5 thread Ital. Tram., 4 drams, 13/14
deniers, white, bright, pure dye.
#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 52 dents, 2×2.
" 18½ " 962 "
20 " (2% shrinkage).
----
Total . . . 982 dents.
#Drawing-in#--1st edge, 7 dents, 4×2 gros de Tours.
Ground, 968 " 2×2 armure
2d edge, 7 " 4×2 gros de Tours.
Armure ground on 12 shafts, straight draw.
Gros de Tours, edges on 4 shafts.
#Warping Ticket#--Ground warp, 54 yards.
1936/2 white.
Gros de Tours edges, 55 yards.
2×28/2 white, on separate rolls.
Total . . . 3984 single ends.
#Harness#--12 shafts, 1936 heddles, per 18½ inches.
1 " 8-2/3 " " 1 "
4 Shafts gros de Tours edges, with 28 heddles on each side.
#Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 96 picks, 1 end.
#Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 3984 ends.
1 end = 54 yards.
1000 yards = 1,50 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).
3984×54×1,50×104
------------------ = 1,31 lbs., or 1 lb. 4,96 ozs.
1000×256×100
[Page 93]
#Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 50 yards.
1 yard = 36 inches.
1 inch = 96 picks.
1 pick = 19 inches.
36 inches = 1 yard.
1000 yards = 4 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 108 (8% waste).
50×36×96×19×4×108
------------------- = 1,54 lbs., or 1 lb. 8,64 ozs.
36×1000×256×100
After weaving, the small flower effects have to be printed on the cloth.
* * * *
[Page 95]
DISPOSITION 6
_Pekin_: 8 shaft satin and repp.
[Illustration: Fig. 34]
[Page 96]
#Length and Width#--1 piece 100 yards long, 20¼ in. wide.
{ Ital. Organ., 1-35/100 drams, black,
{ bright, 20/22 oz.
#Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._ { Ital. Organ., 1-15/100 drams, sky,
{ bright, pure dye
{ Cotton No. 100/2, scarlet.
_Filling._--3 threads, Jap. Tram., 2-8/10 drams,
scarlet, bright, 14/16 oz.
{6×1, black satin
#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 68 dents, {6×2, colored "
{2×1, " repp.
" 20¼ " 1377 "
23 " (1½% for shrinkage).
----
Total 1400 dents.
#Drawing-in#--1st edge, 7 dents, 6×2 satin. }
Ground, 34 " 6×1 " }
2 " 6×2 " }
10 " 6×1 " } twice }
2 " 2×1 repp. } over. }
10 " 6×1 satin. }
2 " 6×2 " }
39 " 6×1 " }
5 " 2×1 repp. } twice }
4 " 6×1 satin. } over. } 7 times
5 " 2×1 repp. } over.
15 " 6×1 satin. }
2 " 2×1 repp. }
15 " 6×1 satin. }
5 " 2×1 repp. } twice }
4 " 6×1 satin. } over. }
5 " 2×1 repp. }
5 " 6×1 satin. }
28 " 6×1 " }
2d edge, 7 " 6×2 " }
Satin on 1st section of 8 shaft skip draw.
Binder " 2nd " " 2 "
Repp " 3d " " 2 "
[Page 97]
On each side of every repp stripe two ends of the satin warp must be
entered on the 2 binder shafts (2d section), to prevent the ends of the
satin to slide over into the repp stripes.
#Warping Ticket#--I. _Beam satin_, 106 yards.
1st edge, 42/2 black.
Ground, 204/1 " }
12/2 sky. }
180/1 black. }
12/2 sky. }
234/1 black. }
48/2 sky. } 7 times over.
180/1 black. }
48/2 sky. }
30/1 black. }
168/1 " }
2d edge, 42/2 " }
6132 single ends black.
1680 " " sky.
II. _Beam repp_, 110 yards.
4/1 scarlet. }
4/1 " }
10/1 " }
10/1 " }
10/1 " } 7 times over.
4/1 " }
10/1 " }
10/1 " }
10/1 " }