One variety is obtained by interlacing the warp-threads alternately one or
more picks behind, and then a number of picks ahead of their respective
neighbors; so the complete arrangement of the points of binding in a repeat
will generally form two parallel diagonal lines. This will cause the twill
lines to appear less pronounced than is the case in the regular twill, and
the character of the fabric approaches more that of the satin.
[Page 44]
[Illustration: Fig. 58]
_Satin Sergé._
On 8 shafts, straight draw.
* * * *
[Illustration: Fig. 59]
_Côte Satinée._
On 16 harness, skip draw.
* * * *
_Rhadzimir-Surah 2-2._ After a certain number of picks of the regular surah
all the warp-threads are crossed in two's thereby causing a sort of a rib
or cut line across the fabric.
[Page 45]
_Rhadzimir of 4 picks._
On 8 shafts, straight draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 60]
* * * *
_Rhadzimir of 6 picks._
On 8 shafts, straight draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 61]
* * * * *
[Page 46]
3. From the Satin Weave
_Satin Soleil_ shows a satin-like surface with a cross line appearance.
Fig. 62 illustrates it as made on 8 shafts, straight draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 62]
* * * *
_Satin Grec_ is a 12-harness satin, in which a taffeta point is added to
each place of interlacing, thus giving the cloth a much firmer hand. Fig.
63 represents this weave on 12 shafts, skip draw.
[Page 47]
[Illustration: Fig. 63]
* * * *
_Peau de Soie._ An 8-shaft satin with one point added on the right or left
to the original spots, giving the fabric a somewhat grainy appearence. Fig.
64 represents a peau de soie on 8 shafts, straight through.
[Illustration: Fig. 64]
* * * *
[Page 48]
_Fleur de Soie._ The face is a satin de Lyon (2-1 twill), with a backing
interlaced on the 12-shaft satin principle, Fig. 65, on 12 shafts, skip
draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 65]
* * * * *
[Page 49]
CANNELE and REPP WEAVES
are in their construction related to the taffeta, and are used mostly in
the form of stripes as an additional ornament to a fabric. The threads
going into the composition of these effects exchange continually from
taffeta interlacing to floating over a certain number of threads, and must
be introduced either in warp or filling close enough to make the floats
cover up the taffeta work entirely, and thus enable the material used to
show up with the full brilliancy it possesses.
Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways. One is to let every
individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the other
method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is used for
the cannele exclusively. These latter threads must come from a separate
warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta part of the
fabric.
The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a
continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in the
middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show both
the face and backside of the respective weaves:
[Page 50]
_Alternating Cannele_ of 6 picks.
On 4 shafts, straight through.
[Illustration: Fig. 66]
* * * *
_Canelle_ (2 beams). Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth pick, drawn
end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 67]
* * * *
[Page 51]
_Cannele_ over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second thread
advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread), drawn
end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 68]
* * * *
[Page 52]
_Cannele_ arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks and
binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts in
first and 2 in second section.
[Illustration: Fig. 69]
* * * *
_Repp_ on 8 shafts straight through. Rotation of filling. 1 pick taffeta, 1
pick float (rib).
[Illustration: Fig. 70]
* * * *
[Page 53]
_Repp_ of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per section.
[Illustration: Fig. 71]
* * * *
_Repp_ of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick binds on the
middle of the first pick. On 6 harness straight draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 72]
* * * *
[Page 54]
_Repp_ in groups, floating over 6 ends and binding on the seventh and
eighth on 8 shafts straight draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 73]
* * * * *
[Page 55]
DOUBLE FACED FABRICS
In this class we find either two systems of warp or of filling so combined
that only one will be visible on either side. The color on one side is
generally different from the other, and so may the interlacing be of a
different nature on face and back. In the latter case great care must be
exercised not to allow the weave on one side to disturb the one on the
other, and as a rule the points of interlacing of the first warp or filling
system are placed as much as possible in the middle of the floats of the
second. This will prevent either color or weave to be seen on the opposite
side, as the floats of one side will naturally lay themselves over the
binders of the other. The number of ends in a repeat of the two weaves must
either be alike or one a multiple of the other.