DERIVATIVE WEAVES

#1. From the Taffeta#

_Royale_ is a modification of the regular Gros de Tours, inasmuch as the

rib line, which in the latter runs straight across the cloth, is broken off

after a given number of warp-threads. These groups, which may comprise 8,

12 or more threads, will interlace each one pick higher than the preceding

one.

_Royale of 8 ends_

On 2 sections of 4 shafts each.

[Illustration: Fig. 55]

* * * *

_Velours Ottoman or Faille française._

In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at the

same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp, which

forms the ribs, another or binder warp, which works continually taffeta,

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while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the rib.

_Faille française._

4 ends of ground on the first section of 8 shafts, skip draw.

1 " binder " second " 2 "

[Illustration: Fig. 56]

* * * *

_Velours Ottoman without a Binder-warp._

In this weave, of which Fig. 57 illustrates a specimen, comprising 8

warp-threads and 32 picks in a repeat, the rib contains 4 picks. Of the 8

warp-threads, 3 float over and 3 under the rib, while the 2 others bind

taffeta, which latter function is executed by 2 other threads in the next

rib.

[Page 43]

[Illustration: Fig. 57]

* * * * *

Theory of Silk Weaving A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics · 第 19 / 57 题