[Sidenote: _Bed shoes, or socks_]
[Sidenote: _Bed shoes_]
[Sidenote: _Baby shoes_]
Bed shoes of all sizes are easily woven, and make a useful holiday gift.
They are made without soles and are intended to be drawn up around the
ankle like a high moccasin. Use the soft double Germantown wool. White,
fastened together with pink or blue, or white striped with a color, may
be used, and are attractive. The socks in the illustration are of white
wool with a pink seam up the instep and pink scallops around the top.
One sock is shown on a last, and the other as it appears off the foot.
The stripes in the knitting can be shown in the weaving by using a
color. The full size of the loom makes a shoe of medium size. String a
close warp with white wool. If the shoe is to be all white, weave with
the same, leaving the color for the finishing. If it is to be striped,
weave perhaps eight or ten times across with color and then with white;
when the weaving is finished you will have a mat 9 x 12 inches. Double
one of the short edges and sew over and over on the wrong side with
white wool. This is the toe. The two long edges now lie together. They
may be crocheted, or knitted, with colored wool by holding them close
and fulling in, or by _puckering_ a little. If this is done in color,
it makes a pretty seam on the top of the foot and front of the ankle.
The top may be finished by crocheting a beading and scallops of the
colored wool. Run a ribbon or worsted cord through the beading. If
desired, the long edges may be laced together with ribbon one-half inch
wide. Baby shoes are made in the same way. To ascertain what length to
adjust the loom, measure the sole, then up, back of the heel, to a point
above the ankle. For the width, measure around the foot. Finish the cord
with tassels or balls.
[Sidenote: _Worsted balls for bed shoes, and other articles_]
To make worsted balls, first cut two small circles from cardboard. From
the center of each cut a smaller circle. Hold one circle over the other,
and with a worsted or tape needle threaded with wool, wind over and over
very closely until the hole in the center is completely filled. Always
piece the wool on the _outside_ edge. Cut the wool all around on the
outside. Make a cord of the wool and slip _between_ the two circles.
Then tie so as to fasten all the pieces of wool in the middle, leaving
the cord long enough to tie in a bow if desired. Tear the pasteboards,
remove them, and trim the wool evenly. A second ball should be fastened
on the other end of the cord, _after_ it has been laced through the
beading.
[Sidenote: _Photograph frames_]
To weave photograph and picture frames of silk, chenille, raffia,
celluloid, or leather, proceed in the same way as for a bordered rug,
having the oblong or square center the required size for the picture.
Foundation frames for mounting the work can be purchased, usually, at
the stores where tissue paper and flowers are sold.
[Sidenote: _Table mats_]
Square and oblong table mats for hot dishes can be made of
candle-wicking, knitting cotton, or cheese cloth.
[Sidenote: _Tippet or scarf_]
To-day, tippets and scarfs are very little used, but they are very
comfortable things to wear to school on a cold day. In order to make
them, string a continuous warp of the required length with Germantown
dark colored wool. Weave the same color for the woof, and brighten it at
intervals with Roman stripes. A plaid scarf can be woven, if preferred;
while with a close warp one can have a kindergarten pattern in another,
or contrasting color.
[Sidenote: _Wristlets_]
In making wristlets, one must decide how long they are to be, and adjust
the length on the loom. Measure around the wrist for the width,
remembering that the wristlets will stretch when pulled over the hand.
Weave in stripes or plaid, or, if desired, plain, stringing the warp
with the same wool as is used in weaving. Remove the mat and sew the
edges together.
[Sidenote: _Sleeve protectors_]
Sleeve protectors can be woven of raffia in the same way as wristlets.
Make them so they can be fastened on the outside of the sleeve, like a
cuff.
[Illustration: _A table mat made from carpet wool_]
[Sidenote: _Purses, or chatelaine bags_]
Purses, or chatelaine bags, are made of knitting-silk. Beads can be
added, if desired. Adjust the loom for the required size, and string a
continuous warp, if necessary. One can obtain the silver or nickel tops,
which open and close, at the department stores.
[Illustration: _Borders for rugs or squares_]
[Sidenote: _Shopping and school bags_]
[Sidenote: _Opera glass bags_]
It will be better to use heavier material for shopping and school bags.
Raffia makes a strong bag; silk strips are serviceable, and leather
strips are good for school bags. For opera-glass bags, make two mats and
lace or weave them together, or string a continuous warp. Use rope silk,
chenille, or knitting silk with beads.
[Illustration: _Borders for rugs or squares_]
When one has mastered the mysteries of weaving thoroughly enough to make
a _good_ mat, it is very easy to "turn them into" various articles.
There is no sleight of hand about it.
[Sidenote: _Panels of silk canvas for boxes_]
Silk canvas panels are made by adjusting the loom for the required size
of the sides of the box, and weaving a plain mat for the top. A number
of suggestions have been given on page 52, under the head of Materials.
Pretty neckties of fine knitting silk can be made on the loom by using a
continuous warp of the same material.
[Illustration: _A square of silk canvas with cross-stitched pattern of
chenille_]
[Sidenote: _Sofa pillows, cushions, sachet cases and veil cases_]
The accompanying illustration, and another on page 98, and also the
vignette on the title page, show squares of silk canvas, and will give
one many ideas of how they may be used. One has a cross-stitched pattern
of chenille, and in another the chenille was alternated with silk in the
warp, and both chenille and silk were used in the woof. The squares can
be made up in cushion and box covers, sachet cases, sofa pillows, or the
larger squares can be used as veil cases. A number of them can be joined
for large sofa pillows. In the latter case they can be made of wool, and
many of them could be crocheted together for an afghan or slumber robe.
[Illustration: _Pattern for rugs or squares_]
The design in the illustration is a pattern which may be used for
either a Wilton or Axminster rug, or for mats, sachet cases, cushion or
box covers, or cross-stitch embroidery on burlap, or silk, or wool
canvas. The patterns given on pages 120, 125, 130, and 134 will be found
adaptable for rugs or squares.
[Sidenote: _Slumber robes or afghans_]
[Sidenote: _Portieres_]
Slumber robes or afghans have been previously mentioned on page 54,
under the head of Materials. It will be found very easy, after a little
experience with a continuous warp, to make strips of any length. It is
better to wind the extra lengths of warp upon spools, as has been
suggested, or around the tops of the rods. Large portieres can be made
of long strips of silk or silkoline cut bias. Fasten the long strips
together horizontally in imitation of Bagdad curtains.
[Illustration: _Borders for rugs or squares_]
[Sidenote: _Hair receivers_]
Hair receivers are easily made from raffia. Make a square mat and fold
it in cornucopia form.
Chapter Twelve
ORIENTAL RUGS
[Sidenote: _Rugs and draperies_]
To be quite up to date, Miss Dolly should have oriental rugs and
draperies in her house beautiful. These are easily made on the loom, and
the little girl or boy, who has first copied a pattern and then seen it
grow under patient fingers, has a thing of beauty and a joy forever.
What could give more pleasure than to be able to say fifty years from
now: "I wove that, my dear, when I went to school"? Truly the
grandchildren would reply: "How I wish I could have gone to grandma's
school!"--only they may have something equally beautiful which will take
its place in that far-off time--who knows?
[Illustration: _Border for rugs or squares_]
[Illustration: _Borders for rugs or squares_]
[Sidenote: _Patterns_]
[Sidenote: _Oriental colors_]
The patterns for oriental rugs familiar in the East have descended
through hundreds of years, and the exquisite colors, produced by
vegetable dyes, and increasing in richness and beauty with age, are only
to be seen in old rugs. We have nothing in our modern dyes to compare
with the old color. One is soon interested in the study of these Eastern
treasures, and it becomes second nature in a short time not only to chat
familiarly of Kermans, Serebends, Khivas, Bokharas, and Kiz-Kilims, _ad
infinitum_, but to jot down now and then in one's notebook, or still
better in one's design book (made of the kindergarten squared paper,
one-eighth inch), a pretty border or centerpiece for the rug which is to
grace some doll house. The patterns of Turkish rugs (see page 127) are
of geometrical or arabesque designs--an edict from the Koran having
prohibited the reproduction of living things. The Persians, however,
weave animals, birds, etc., as their ancestors did in days gone by.
[Sidenote: _Inscriptions on Persian rugs_]
There is some very interesting reading in "Oriental Rug Weaving," by V.
Kurdji, on the subject of inscriptions often found on Persian rugs. He
says: "If the possessors of some of the rare pieces that are sold in
this country knew the meaning of the inscriptions woven in their rugs,
the knowledge would add a charm and interest which would make them more
valuable than the harmonious colors so beautifully blended."
[Illustration: _Pattern for border of Persian rug_]
[Sidenote: _Bokkara rugs_]
[Sidenote: _Khiva rugs_]
Oriental rugs take their names from the countries or provinces in which
they are made. Bokhara rugs are made in mountainous districts of
Turkestan, and have never been successfully imitated, because the dyes
used are made from a plant grown only in that district. The designs are
geometrical, and the colors deep maroon or blue. The pile is woven as
close as velvet. They are noted for the superior quality of their dyes.
Khiva rugs, sometimes called afghan, are made in Turkestan. They
resemble the Bokhara rugs, but are coarser in texture and heavier in
pile, and they differ from them in having a wide selvage at each end.
Some Khivas have a small pattern in red mosaic over the surface with a
circle in the center. One often sees a rug made of a rich golden yellow
with a background of dark red.
[Illustration: _A Kiz-Kilim rug pattern_]
[Illustration: _Pattern for a Kiz-Kilim stripe_]
[Sidenote: _Kiz-Kilim rugs_]
The Kiz-Kilim rugs have no nap, and are woven with a needle. They are
thin and almost alike on both sides. The larger sizes are woven in two
strips fastened together so that they can be taken apart and used for
curtains. "These Kiz-Kilims are woven by Armenians and Turks in Anatolia
(the land of sunrise, and the Greek name for Asia Minor). The literal
translation of the word Kiz-Kilim is bride's rug, it being a custom in
that country for a bride to present to her husband one of these rugs,
which she has woven during her engagement to him. The quality of the rug
is supposed to measure the quality of the husband's affection for his
bride, consequently we have many beautiful specimens of this class, the
brilliant hues and intricate designs of which could only have been
inspired by the whisperings of Cupid. They are in open-work
patterns--called perforated--and often have long tufts of colored silk
tied to the rugs with blue beads, in order to keep them from the effects
of the Evil Eye." The Kiz-Kilim rug in the illustration was copied from
a genuine rug. The filling is a deep blue and the borders are in
oriental colors. The center figure is white, with red, brown, and yellow
inside. There are four kinds of Kilims. Much interesting and valuable
information can be found in John Kimberley Mumford's "Oriental Rugs";
New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1900, where directions for weaving
Kiz-Kilims, Khivas, and Bokharas are given, with a few patterns.
[Illustration: _A Kiz-Kilim rug_]
[Sidenote: _Materials used_]
[Sidenote: _Perforations_]
[Illustration: _Pattern for a Turkish rug_]
Oriental wools or carpet ravelings are used for these rugs. Copy your
figures and colors from genuine rugs. The accompanying patterns were
obtained in this way. See directions on page 47 for stringing a double
warp with fringe at each end. First fasten the pattern under the warp;
then weave about one-quarter inch at each end with carpet thread like
the warp. This will make it look like a "truly" Kiz-Kilim. Next to
this, weave a very narrow strip of several colors each twice across,
regarding the double strings as one. Then weave each part of the narrow
border. To make the perforations, take up one thread of the double warp
for one side of the pattern, and the other thread for weaving the
pattern next to it. For instance, the "steps," as the children call
them, of triangle No. 1, when finished, will stand close to the steps of
triangle No. 2, with a little slit between. These perforations occur
only where one pattern joins another of a different color, or the dark
filling. For instance, in the white figure in the center, where three or
five squares come together, the slits occur at each end, the part
between being woven over the double strings as if they were only one. In
this way the perforations of other parts are closed top and bottom. Use
a tape needle and weave each section of the pattern separately. Weave
the filling last. As this peculiar tone of blue could not be obtained in
carpet ravelings, an eighth of a yard of terry was raveled for the
purpose. Take care not to draw any part of the pattern too tight, or the
perforations will be too large. The right and left edges of the rug are
woven over the rods to keep them straight. Both narrow borders were
woven before the center was commenced. The pattern in the illustration
is for a Wilton or Axminster rug, but can be used for mats, or box,
sachet, and cushion covers. It is made with cross-stitch embroidery on
burlap, silk, or wool canvas. (See also page 120.)
[Illustration: _A pattern for a rug or square_]
[Sidenote: _Turkish patterns laid with tablets_]
The children can lay these Turkish patterns with square tablets upon
their desks, the pattern being drawn upon the board, or on paper with a
rubber pen. It will be a delight to the children to transfer them to
paper by drawing and then coloring, or by cutting and pasting colored
papers.
[Sidenote: _Stitches for Khiva and Bokhara rugs_]
The genuine Khiva and Bokhara rugs are made by weaving and knotting
alternately. It will be easier at first to weave a web, or foundation.
Choose a tight twisted yarn about the color of the rug to be woven.
String a close warp of the wool and weave plain up and down, one string
at a time, until you have a rug of the desired size. Put in the pattern
first, and then the filling. This work will be almost too difficult for
_little_ children. Carpet wools and Germantown wool can be used. It will
not be found difficult to follow the pattern, especially if one is used
to cross-stitch embroidery. Each stitch counts for one of cross-stitch.
Keep the stitches very close together so that the nap will stand up well
when finished. Silk rugs can be copied in the same way, using floss or
rope silk for the pile. If one prefers, a piece of burlap may be
stretched across the loom and secured to the rods, instead of weaving a
foundation, as suggested.
[Illustration: _Stitches for pile weaving_]
[Sidenote: _Stitches for pile weaving_]
[Sidenote: _The first stitch_]
Stitches for pile weaving are very easily made. This illustration
showing examples of stitches for pile weaving illustrates the methods
used in the stitches, and may be used for Axminster or Wilton rugs, for
boxes, sachet cases, and other articles. The tape needle is the kind
used for weaving when the large needle cannot be used. It is preferable
to use one of this kind on account of the eye and blunt point, and it
may be obtained at the notion counter in department stores for a few
cents. There are two stitches, each occupying half of the illustration
and numbered from left to right, beginning at the top. Make No. 1 by
passing a tape needle threaded with wool down through the web, leaving a
short end, then up one stitch to the left. This is the first step. In
No. 2 continue over on the right side, _past_ the stitch where you
started, to the stitch on the right; then down and up through the first
hole, and cut off the wool the same length as the end you left at first.
No. 3 shows a stitch completed. No. 4, one row of stitches, and No. 5,
three rows, showing how one row overlaps another. When the rug is
finished, the ends should be cut evenly, so that the nap is like velvet.
The children would say that this stitch looks like a two-legged stool,
and so it does.
[Sidenote: _The second stitch_]
The second stitch is made so that the nap lies sideways from left to
right. No. _a_ is just like the preceding stitch. No. _b_ shows the
needle passing down the stitch where you started and up one stitch to
the right. Cut off the wool and pull the end left at first over the
last one. This pile should stand very straight and even. No. _c_ shows a
completed stitch; No. _d_ one row, and No. _e_ three rows. These
stitches are useful in mending Khiva and Bokhara rugs.
[Sidenote: _Wilton and Axminster rugs_]
Wilton, Axminster, or any rugs having a pile, can be woven with the same
stitches. The pattern in the illustration may be used for either a
Wilton or Axminster rug, for a box cover, cushion, sachet case, or mat;
and can be cross-stitched embroidery, on burlap, silk or woolen canvas.
[Illustration: _Pattern for a rug, mat or cover_]
Chapter Thirteen
NAVAJO BLANKETS
[Illustration: _A miniature Indian loom_]
[Sidenote: _A sketch_]
[Sidenote: _Indian weaving_]
[Sidenote: _The colors used_]
[Sidenote: _Old Indian blankets are rare_]
[Sidenote: _Description of the illustration_]
Navajo blankets were first made by the Pueblo Indians, from whom the
Navajo Indians learned the art, and not long after the latter excelled
in the making of them. Among the Pueblo Indians the men do the work; but
women are the weavers among the Navajos. In the illustration on this
page is seen a miniature Navajo loom with the blanket commenced. The two
cords woven at the sides with the woof can be easily seen. Simple looms
are suspended between two posts or trees, and the weaver sits upon the
ground. A twig is used for a shuttle, and a reed, fork-shaped like a
hand, is used to push down the woof threads. The blanket is made
waterproof by pounding down the threads with a batten, a good picture of
which is seen in Dr. Washington Matthews' article on Navajo weavers in
the Third Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology. Separate balls of
color are used to carry out the pattern, which is sometimes traced in
the sand before the work is commenced. As many as twenty-nine different
balls have been seen hanging from a single blanket. Some of the designs
have been handed down from one generation to another, and are carried
entirely in the memory. They are often symbolical "and unfold a whole
legend to the knowing eye of the native." The weaving is done from the
bottom up, some working in one direction, while others weave first at
the bottom, then turn the loom upside down, and, after weaving about the
same distance there, finish in the middle. The last part of the weaving
is like darning, and is often done with a needle. The colors most used
are white, gray, black, a bright yellow, red (a scarlet, generally
obtained by raveling bayeta cloth), and sometimes blue. In former times,
when the Indians used vegetable dyes, the colors were beautiful and
lasting. These old blankets are becoming more and more rare, and to-day
in their places we have the bright and not always satisfactory results
of aniline dyes. The blanket in the illustration facing this page has
narrow stripes in the following colors: On each end (seven stripes) red,
black, white, orange, green, white, black. The two groups of six stripes
in the middle are: Black, white, red, green, white, black. Before the
advent of the present squaw dress, the black, red, and dark blue
blankets were used as clothing, but the best blankets were, and still
are, worn at sacred dances. Dr. Matthews, in his report, gives an
interesting description of the method of making these blankets, with
several pictures of the better examples. Navajo blankets are finished
with four border cords, which are secured as the weaving progresses, and
the ends are fastened at the four corners by small tassels.
[Illustration: _A Navajo Indian woman weaving a blanket_]
[Sidenote: _Method of making_]
[Sidenote: _Indian blankets_]
Small Navajo blankets can be woven on the loom. Draw the pattern and
place under the warp, fastening it to the side rods. Use warp or carpet
thread for the warp, and weave with a tape or upholstery needle. One may
weave all the pattern first, and then put in the filling; while another
will weave as the Indians do, filling in from one part of the pattern to
the other by threading the needle with a different color. This can be
done, without running the thread underneath, by hooking it in the loop
of the pattern just finished. These little blankets are very fascinating
things to make, and the children become much interested in them, and in
Indian life as well.
[Illustration: _A Navajo blanket_]
[Sidenote: _The colors in the blanket on page 141_]
This very beautiful Navajo blanket, shown in the illustration, has three
broad red stripes, two narrow red stripes about one-half the width of
the former, and four gray stripes about one-half the width of narrow red
stripes. The centers of all the figures are red, like the filling--a
brilliant scarlet. The colors of the large figures, beginning at the
center of each, and counting from left to right, are as follows: Nos. 1,
3, and 5, red, green, and light yellow. Nos. 2 and 4, red, white, and
black. The small figures, counting the same way, are: Nos. 1, 3, and 5,
red, white, and black. Nos. 2 and 4, red, yellow, and green. The four
corners are finished with twisted red cord-like tassels. This cord also
extends across the warp ends. Dr. Matthews tells in his article on
"Navajo Weavers" how two cords are twisted and woven at the sides with
the woof.
[Illustration: _A very beautiful Navajo Indian blanket, showing the
manner of decoration_]
The two Navajo Indian blankets illustrated in this chapter, and the
pattern on the following page, may be easily adapted for the loom.
Germantown knitting wool or carpet ravelings can be used, although to
obtain softer wool is better. Some of the handsomest Navajo blankets
have a long nap.
[Sidenote: _Navajo patterns laid with tablets_]
The children will take pleasure in laying Navajo patterns with
triangular tablets, and then transferring the pattern to paper by
drawing and coloring, or by cutting and pasting in colors.
[Illustration: _A pattern for a Navajo blanket_]
Chapter Fourteen
SONGS, GAMES, AND STORIES
There are many beautiful songs which can be sung during the weaving.
Thomas Carlyle has said:
[Sidenote: _Songs and games lighten work_]
"Give us, O give us the man who sings at his work! He will do more in
the same time; he will do it better; he will persevere longer. One is
scarcely sensible of fatigue whilst he marches to music, and the very
stars are said to make harmony as they revolve in their spheres."
[Sidenote: _Songs for the children_]