the delight of the children. Adjust the frame for the size required, and
decide how wide the border is to be. It is necessary to have an extra
pair of rods, if one desires a smooth and well-finished rug. The border
of the rug represented in the illustration is two inches. This should be
woven with a tape needle. Weave the border at the foot of the loom. This
extends the entire width. Place the extra rods two inches toward the
center from the side rods on the outside of the rug, keeping them _back_
of the border already woven at the foot. This will outline the sides of
the plain oblong in the center. Weave the left and right hand borders up
to a point two inches from the head piece, taking care to go around the
rods just placed. Then begin the plain center. As you come to the border
on each side, run your tape needle _through_ the loops of mottled
silkoline which are around the rod, but do not go around the rod itself
with the plain silkoline, since doing so would make a ridge in the rug.
Draw the woof strips tightly and firmly, so that the work will lie flat
and smooth when removed from the loom. Be sure to weave the center far
enough, remembering that the upper woof strips in the border will crowd
it down. When the center is finished, remove the extra rods and finish
weaving the border to the head piece. In selecting a color for the
center, match one of the colors in the figured silkoline. The color for
the center in the rug of the illustration on page 90 is green, and the
same color appears also in the mottled border, with yellow and brown.
The ends should be left plain, the warp strings being concealed as
directed. These rugs are very beautiful, and can be made in an infinite
variety through the use of different colors, and by reversing the center
and border. They can be made of carpet or Germantown wool, in two colors
or in two tones of one color. In weaving rugs with centers and borders,
weave a little farther than the exact measure, because the next woof
threads will push down the woof already made, and you may find that you
have not woven the correct measure. These rugs are useful as "heel
rugs"; they are placed under the piano near the pedal to protect the
carpet from the pressure of the heel. (See also page 82.)
[Illustration: _A plain silkoline rug, with a mottled border_]
[Sidenote: _Holder or mat_]
[Sidenote: _Many squares joined together_]
[Sidenote: _Small rug with fringe_]
[Sidenote: _Stair and hall carpets_]
Adjust the loom for the size required. The plaid effect in the holder
illustrated on page 92 is obtained by stringing a close warp with green
and white carpet wool, alternating two of white with four of green. In
weaving, use two woof threads of white and _four_ of green to make the
square correct. The kindergarten designs make pretty holders. If you
have woven a holder, it will be finished when it is removed from the
loom and the warp strings have been fastened. If you wish your holder to
be very thick, weave two of these pieces, lay a square of felt or
flannel between and sew or crochet the edges together. If the work is to
be a mat, knot a pretty fringe all around it. Many of these squares can
be joined to make sofa pillows, afghans, slumber robes, and other dainty
articles. With a continuous warp, one can weave long strips for the same
articles. If a small rug for Miss Dolly's bedroom is desired, string the
warp so that the two ends will have a fringe. Stair and hall carpets for
the doll house can be woven in these pretty designs by adjusting the
loom for a narrow strip, and, if necessary, a continuous warp.
[Illustration: _Holder of green and white carpet wool_]
Chapter Nine
HAMMOCKS
[Illustration: _Back of loom, showing method of stringing warp through
rings for a hammock_]
[Sidenote: _Method of adjustment_]
[Sidenote: _Use of stripes for various colors_]
[Sidenote: _Lengthwise stripes_]
To weave a hammock, one must first adjust the loom to its full size. Tie
two rings together and fasten them at the back of the loom, to head,
foot, and sides, as in the illustration. One must then decide how close
the warp is to be strung. Measure the string, which should be
continuous, allowing enough to go to the rings at the back and make a
buttonhole stitch each time. Then wind on a long thin stick or dress
steel, in such a way that it will pass easily through the rings. In
stringing the hammock in the illustration, a penholder was used. The
rings are tied, with white cord, to the four sides of the loom. By doing
this, all tangling of the warp string is avoided, and it is far
preferable to splicing. Tie the first warp string to the top ring. Draw
it tightly through the first groove, over the face of the loom to the
opposite groove, then to the back of the loom through the bottom ring.
Make a buttonhole stitch and return in the same manner over the face of
the loom, around to the top ring, where you make a buttonhole stitch and
return, until the whole warp is strung. Care should be taken to make it
firm and tight. Hold the string and ring firmly in the left hand while
making the buttonhole stitch with the right. Cut the woof cords long
enough to allow a fringe on each side of the hammock. Weave each cord
separately, tying in pairs around the rods. Stripes of one or more
colors can be woven at each end or at intervals through the hammock. By
weaving two colors alternately, the stripes will be lengthwise instead
of crosswise. Knot the fringe at each side. To fasten the top and bottom
woof cords so that they will not pull out of place, thread a tape needle
with cord and tie each warp string close to the woof. Another way to
secure the top and bottom woof cords is to weave two cords at one time,
twisting one over the other between the warp strings. The bottom one
should be woven before the hammock is commenced. The top one can be
woven before the hammock is finished, and pushed up close to the head
piece. Then fill up the space.
[Illustration: _A hammock made from strings of different colors in
lengthwise stripes_]
[Sidenote: _Making the fringe_]
[Sidenote: _The stretcher_]
[Sidenote: _The head-rest_]
[Sidenote: _Hammock with lengthwise colored stripes_]
[Sidenote: _Knotted hammocks_]
Instead of knotting the fringe as suggested, two cords can be twisted at
each side of the hammock in the same way that the woof cords are secured
at the top and bottom. This forms a heading for the fringe. Take up
_two_ cords of the fringe at a time. If desired, the strings which
extend from the rings to the hammock may be woven for the space of an
inch or so close to the rings instead of making a buttonhole stitch.
Make a stretcher for the head by covering a piece of rattan with
buttonhole stitch. Fasten this to the hammock. A head-rest can also be
woven and adjusted. To remove the hammock from the loom, cut the two
rings apart, and then lift the warp strings from the grooves. A very
pretty hammock can be made by stringing the warp of different colors, in
order to make _lengthwise_ stripes. Weave a neutral color through them.
In this case, have a close warp. Pretty hammocks can be made by knotting
instead of weaving.
[Sidenote: _To string warp for hammock in order to have the sides
shorter than the center_]
Cut two semi-circular pieces from light wood or pasteboard. These should
suit the width of the hammock to be made. If this is the width of the
loom, then 9-1/2 inches long and two inches at the widest part. Cut the
curved edge in notches to correspond with the number taken in the head
piece. These pieces will be firmer and more satisfactory if made of wood
and finished at the lower edges like the metal head piece. This can be
easily done by glueing them to a narrow piece of wood so that they will
stand. If furnished with perforations, they can be laced to the head and
foot pieces or the rods can be run through them. By stringing the warp
in this way, the sides of the hammock will be shorter than the center,
and there will be no danger of Miss Dolly falling out.
The warp can be strung more quickly and easily if hammock hooks similar
to those in the two illustrations below are used. Measure the right
length--22 warp strings 31 inches long for the metal loom, or 29 the
same length for the wooden loom--and wind as before.
[Illustration: _Hook No. 1_]
[Illustration: _Hook No. 2_]
[Sidenote: _Hammock hooks_]
[Sidenote: _Weaving_]
In using hammock hook No. 1, knot half the number of warp strings in the
left-hand ring and half in the right-hand ring. If hook No. 2 be used,
unpin the part at the right, knot the warp strings along the straight
edge at the bottom, and then pin the right-hand part again. Weaving each
cord separately across the loom makes a heavy fringe at the sides. If a
lighter fringe be desired, cut the woof cords twice the width of the
loom plus twice the length of the fringe. Weave across the loom, leaving
enough for the fringe at the side, then _around_ the rod and back again,
drawing the cord through to the same length as the part left at first.
Weave in the same way with the second color, having the loop on the
_same_ rod and the fringe at the _same_ side as the other. Weave the
next two cords with loops on the _opposite_ rod and fringe on the
_opposite_ side. Continue in this way until the hammock is finished.
Make a heading at the sides as described, only carry the two cords
_through_ the loops, crossing them between on top of the rods. The warp
strings can be passed through the rings without buttonholing. A firm
pretty finish can be made at the sides by cutting two cords--one of each
color two yards long and buttonholing around the rods on _top_ of the
woof cords which extend at each side. Fasten these long cords at the
bottom of the loom. After two pairs of woof cords have been tied,
buttonhole the edge over them and around the rods and continue this
until the hammock is finished.
[Illustration: _A square of silk canvas_]
Chapter Ten
FACE AND DISH CLOTHS AND BATH RUGS
[Illustration: _A face cloth made from cheese cloth_]
[Sidenote: _Materials_]
The materials for making face and dish cloths are: cheese cloth cut
bias, darning or knitting cotton, or candle-wicking. Those made from
cheese cloth resemble the Turkish rags. Cut and splice the cheese cloth
according to directions on page 83. The face cloth in the illustration
is made from white cheese cloth, cut bias. String the warp 3/16 inch
with white twine. It being desirable to have face and dish cloths as
soft as possible, do not push the woof threads too closely together.
When the cloth is removed from the loom, conceal the ends of the warp
strings as previously directed. Fine white thread should be used. If
preferred, the edges can be bound with tape. Cloths of candle-wicking
are very quickly woven, but they are not so soft.
Face cloths of cheese cloth with borders of knitting cotton would be
durable and satisfactory. Make them according to directions given for
rugs with centers and borders.
Cross-barred face cloths made of knitting cotton No. 4, in two colors,
are very pretty.
[Sidenote: _Bath rug made with continuous warp_]
Serviceable bath rugs can be made by making three strips as long as
desired, and then fastening together. They are made of cheese cloth cut
bias, but the woof threads are packed much tighter than in the face
cloths. Finish the edges by stitching a white tape all around. Floor
rugs of any kind can be made firmer by finishing in this way with tape
of the same color.
[Illustration: _A pattern for a floor rug_]
Chapter Eleven
RAFFIA MATS
[Illustration: _Method of weaving a raffia mat on the loom, showing
colored stripes_]
[Sidenote: _Method of making raffia mats_]
[Sidenote: _The rods and the warp strings in kindergarten patterns_]
Mats of raffia are made like all the other mats. The warp may be of
twine or carpet thread. In this case, the mat should be woven of raffia
in the natural color, with stripes of bright color at each end; or, it
may be of some dark tone with stripes of a contrasting color. By using
a warp of raffia, many of the beautiful kindergarten designs can be
produced. Use one color for the warp and another for the woof. The
method of stringing a warp of raffia is described in "Methods of
Stringing Warp," on page 45. The illustration shows a raffia mat in
process of making. The natural color of raffia is used, with stripes of
cardinal, and the method of stringing color in the warp to obtain this
effect is clearly seen. The children will have no difficulty in carrying
out the pattern, if they remember that the _rods_ correspond to the
_border_ of the paper mat. Before stringing the warp for a kindergarten
pattern, count the strips in the paper mat and begin to count on the
loom _from_ the rods. In this kind of work the string on top of the rod
does not count. It forms the _border_ of the mat.
[Illustration: _A woven mat of raffia, from a kindergarten pattern in
green and the natural color of the raffia_]
[Sidenote: _Stringing the warp_]
In making mats, or matting, of raffia, the material can be carried over
the rods as in wool-weaving, or it can be finished on the edges in the
same way as the real matting is done. This will be easily understood by
examining a piece of matting. In stringing the warp, have three strings
over each bar instead of one. Cut the woof strips several inches longer
than the width of the loom. Weave the first strip, leaving a piece at
each side. Thread a tape needle with one end and weave it in and out the
three warp threads on the rod. Then cut it off close to the edge. Finish
off all the ends in this way. When the work is removed from the loom,
press the edges flat with a warm iron. It is a little easier to keep the
pattern right by weaving in this way, and the work resembles the real
matting more nearly. Use a tape needle for weaving raffia.
[Sidenote: _Porch curtains_]
If the doll house which we are fitting is a large one with porches, one
could complete the furnishings with a porch curtain, for sunny
afternoons.
[Sidenote: _Glove, trinket, and mouchoir boxes_]
Boxes of all kinds can be made of raffia woven in panels. It will make
the box stronger and firmer to overhand a piece of rattan around the
edges of the panels before joining them in the form of a box. Thread a
worsted needle with a narrow strip of raffia and buttonhole the edges of
the panels together; or, sew them over and over and cover with a braid
of raffia. Spiral-weaving is pretty for this finishing. It is described
in an article entitled "Straw-Weaving," in "American Homes" for
September, 1900, a magazine published in Knoxville, Tenn. Glove,
trinket, and mouchoir boxes are pretty for holiday gifts. By using
different patterns and colors a great variety of them can be made.
[Sidenote: _Rugs of carpet wool_]
For rugs made of carpet wool, string a three-eighths-inch warp of twine,
or oriental cord, the color of the body of the rug. Use a deep tone of
red, olive green, or any preferred color, with a stripe at each end. A
study of rugs will soon enable one to get the right proportion of rug
and stripe. Beautiful rugs are made with a succession of Roman stripes
separated by a narrow one of deep red, green, or blue, the ends of the
rug being woven of the same color. Center and corner patterns can be
woven by placing the pattern under the warp. By stringing a close warp
of the same material all the designs for paper-weaving can be easily
reproduced. Lengthwise stripes are also pretty. String the warp with
different colors and weave a neutral color through them. The rug in the
frontispiece is woven of heavy carpet wool, some of which is seen on the
table.
[Sidenote: _Patterns for rugs_]
[Sidenote: _Fundamental form No. 1_]
Beautiful patterns for rugs can be made by cutting squares and triangles
of paper according to directions given in the "Kindergarten Guides." The
"Paradise of Childhood" has some very pretty ones. There are two
fundamental forms for this paper-cutting. The first is made from a
nine-inch square. Fold one diagonal, place the right acute angle upon
the left so as to produce four triangles resting upon each other. The
form now lies before you with the right angle at the right and two acute
angles (one on top of the other) at the left. Lift one of these acute
angles and place on top of the angle at the back, creasing the fold;
then fold the remaining acute angle _under_ to the same angle at the
back, creasing as before. Now place the form with the right angle at the
back and hold all the open edges to the left while cutting.
Illustrations in the "Kindergarten Guides" show a network drawn on the
triangle at the top as an aid to transferring the pattern.
[Illustration: _A rug pattern from an equilateral triangle_]
[Sidenote: _Fundamental form No. 2_]
The second fundamental form is made from a six-fold equilateral
triangle. Directions for folding and cutting this from the square are
given in the "Paradise of Childhood." It can be cut, also, from a circle
whose diameter is equal to the width of the rug desired. In drawing and
cutting the pattern, hold the form with the entirely _open sides_ toward
you. The whole pattern is cut at once and the unfolding often reveals a
charming design for a rug, which can be woven in tones or contrasting
colors. If cut from colored paper, it can be mounted on white and placed
under the warp. Beautiful original designs in conventional leaf and
flower patterns can also be made.
[Sidenote: _Conventional leaf forms_]
To make a conventional leaf form, use fundamental form No. 1. Cut the
leaf on the mid-rib and lay this part on the base of the triangle with
the point of the leaf on the open edges at the left, and the stem on the
closed part at the right. Draw around the edges of the leaf and cut,
taking care not to separate the leaf forms at the center, which is at
the closed part at your right hand.
Some excellent suggestions for this leaf-cutting in centerpieces and
borders can be found in the "Pratt Institute Monthly" for April, 1900.
[Sidenote: _Dusters_]
Dusters for hardwood floors are best made of strips of old flannel. They
can be made of stocking strips, or cheese cloth. Make two mats the full
size of the loom, sew on three sides and run a gathering-string around
the top. It will fit better if it has a piece of cheese cloth sewn at
the top through which the gathering-string can be run. This makes a fine
duster to slip over a broom. If one prefers, a continuous warp can be
strung--the length to be twice the length of the broom part--and a long
piece woven which will require sewing on two sides only.
[Illustration: _A doll towel with fringed ends_]
[Sidenote: _Doll towels_]
[Sidenote: _Patterns for towel borders_]
[Sidenote: _Lunch cloths_]
[Sidenote: _Bedspreads_]
[Sidenote: _Quilts_]
Doll towels are very fascinating things to make. Adjust the loom for the
required size. The exact proportion can be ascertained from a large
towel. String the close warp with fine darning cotton and have the
strings in pairs with fringe at each end. Allow several inches for
fringe so that it can be knotted easily. The woof threads, which are
also of fine darning cotton, should be pushed very closely and smoothly
together. Plain stripes of red or blue, or fancy stripes made with a
kindergarten design, can be woven. Observe the same directions for
spacing the stripes which are given with the silkoline rug. The towel
in the illustration is made of white darning cotton, with the stripes
and initial of red. The children will be delighted to lay towel borders
with their tablets, and after cutting and pasting with colored paper,
weave them in towels for Miss Dolly's housekeeping. Cross-stitch the
initial as previously directed. Lunch cloths and bedspreads can be made
in the same way. These should be fringed all around. A cross-barred
cloth or spread can be made by putting the color in the warp at regular
intervals and weaving across with color and white to form squares.
Pretty quilts of coarse cotton can be made with kindergarten designs. By
weaving many squares, a large quilt can be made. See directions on page
50.
[Sidenote: _Bed and carriage blankets_]
Bed and carriage blankets are best made of single zephyr, although
Germantown wool will do. The heavy carpet wools are also pretty. Some
suggestions for this work have already been given under the head of
Materials. These blankets are really mats, but made only for another
use, and are to be woven in a similar way. Those with centers and
borders are pretty, and the plaid ones are always attractive. (See
illustration of the holder on page 92.)
[Sidenote: _Doll shawls_]
For doll shawls choose a pretty Scotch plaid and match the colors in
fine wool. String a close warp with wool, copying the Scotch plaid
exactly. Weave the colors across so that a "truly" plaid shawl may grace
Miss Dolly's shoulders on the cold winter mornings. A striped shawl is
pretty, or one having one color for the center and another for the
border.
[Sidenote: _Doll skirt_]
Miss Dolly may have a lovely petticoat, too. String a continuous warp
long enough for the width of the skirt. Adjust the rods for the length.
By using a little color in the warp near the right edge of the weaving,
the skirt will have some stripes. Twist a cord of the wool and run in
the top for a draw-string.
[Sidenote: _Reins_]
To make reins, adjust for a narrow strip and string a close, continuous
warp the length desired. Make a piece, also, to go across the front. Use
Germantown knitting yarn. A black warp with a bright red woof is pretty.
[Sidenote: _A square Tam O'Shanter_]
In order to obtain a Tam O'Shanter for Dolly, first weave a square the
required size. String a close warp with wool and weave a kindergarten
pattern with two colors. When completed, remove from the loom, fold four
corners to the center, turn them in to form an opening for the head, and
fasten the edges by sewing, or by lacing with a cord made of the two
colors. Fasten a tassel on the top and it is finished. Angora wool is
pretty for these caps.
[Illustration: _Fringe for a rug in red and black_]
[Sidenote: _Fringe_]
[Sidenote: _Threading the needle_]
[Sidenote: _Making the fringe into tassels_]
[Sidenote: _Removing the fringe from the loom_]
The head piece of the loom should be adjusted for the width of the rug
for which the fringe is required. A rug nine inches wide would require
fringe nine inches long. Adjust the rods one inch apart--that is, with
one perforation between the rods. String the warp in every groove, one
string over each rod and three between, making five in all. Weave over
and under one until the heading is finished. If you have an extra side
rod, place it in the sixth perforation from the right-hand rod. This
will make tassels a little over two inches long. If a shorter fringe is
preferred, adjust accordingly. If you have not an extra side rod remove
the _left_ one and place as directed, leaving the _right_ one in the
heading until the whole fringe is finished. Thread a large tape needle
with two pieces of worsted, as long as the two can be conveniently
managed. If the fringe is made of two colors, take one of each for the
tassels, weaving the heading with the one which predominates in the rug.
Run the ends in the grooves to fasten them. Wind under the right rod,
which was left in the heading, through the first stitch, which includes
the warp string over the rod, then over the extra rod to the right. Wind
under again through the next stitch in the heading (always around the
rod) and so on until the end is reached. To make this fringe into
tassels, separate six strands of each color and tie with the two colors,
running the tape needle and worsted along from one tassel to another, or
tie each one securely and cut. The fringe will need no finishing at the
ends. Run the short ends, which were wound through the grooves in the
beginning in order to fasten them, through a few stitches in the
heading. The fringe can be made of one color, and of any width. To take
the fringe from the loom, first remove the rod at the end of the tassels
and cut the fringe before removing the rods from the heading. This will
insure straight cutting at the ends of the tassels. If one prefers a
knotted fringe, cut and knot before removing the heading. By examining
rug fringes in the furniture stores one can get a very good idea of the
manner of knotting. (See also directions for splicing Germantown wool on
page 84.)
[Sidenote: _Knotting_]
A simple fringe can be knotted quickly and easily in the ends of the
warp strings, after the rug is taken from the loom. First decide upon
the length of the fringe when finished. Add at least two inches to allow
for knotting. Cut each piece of wool twice this length, double, and
thread a tape needle. Pass the needle from the right side of the rug to
the wrong, through the warp strings at the end of the rug. Draw the loop
of wool through and unthread the needle. Pass the two ends of the wool
down through the loop and draw it tight. When this has been done in
every pair of warp strings, knot every other piece of the fringe
together, in the same way that towel fringe is made.
This question of whether a rug should have fringe or not is much
discussed at present. It is largely a personal one. The best way,
perhaps, is to study different kinds of rugs and know which ones are
usually made with fringe and which are not.