A Village plundered--Shaidega--Animals--Our Biscuit--Villages _en
route_--Minyo--Respect for Learning--Monotony of the Country--A
Wedding--Palsy--Slave-agents--Kal, Kal--Birni Gamatak--Tuaricks on the
Plain--Palms--Sight the Town of Gurai--Bare Country--Bearings of various
Places--Province of Minyo--Visit the Sultan--Audience-room--Fine
Costume--A Scene of Barbaric Splendour--Trade--Estimate of Wealth--How
to amuse a Prince--Small Present--The Oars carried by Men--Town of
Gurai--Fortifications.
_Feb. 11th._--I rose early, and started as usual, as quick as possible.
We made seven hours and a-half, and halted at a small village called
Bogussa. After the fifth hour we came to the hamlet of Dugurka, which
the Kashalla delivered up to plunder, because the people refused to give
him some water. This is the story of my servants, which I do not
believe. But certain it is, that, after the Kashalla passed the hamlet,
his people, who loitered behind, commenced a general pillage of the poor
little village. The inhabitants had all fled at our approach, save one
old man. All the hut-doors were violently torn away and the insides
ransacked. The spoils were leben, bowls or calabashes, bows and arrows,
axes, and some other trifles. Of live-stock, all the fowls were seized
and slaughtered on the spot; also a lamb. My interpreter tells me that
all the slaves of the Government of Bornou are marauders, and that it
was for this reason the Sarkee of Zinder complained to the Sheikh of the
government caravans seizing the people and sacking their villages. In
all my life I never saw such an instance of the triumph of might over
right. My servants, most of them Bornouese, joined their brethren with
great eagerness. To remonstrate with them is useless. I have had several
quarrels of remonstrance already since I have been in the Sheikh's
territory, about similar acts of brigandage; and if I go on, I shall
quarrel with all the world of Africa, every hour of the day. I
reproached my servants ironically. I told them some one would soon come
and take their camels and bullocks, and they must not complain to me to
get them redress. But it is astonishing to see with what zest these
freed slaves from the north coast enter again upon their old habits of
plunder and razzia. The education of Africa consists in preparing it for
the razzia. All the fine-spirited youth of all the great families look
forward to this as their only occupation.
We reached the rocky hills called Shaidega, near which the lake
terminates, stretching from Guddemuni. At the base of these rocky
heights is a sprinkling of huts, and there are indeed many sprinklings
of huts which cannot be mentioned all along this route. The hill tops
have no longer the naked appearance of the Saharan rocks, but are
clothed and crowned with trees. The country is very fine and park-like,
and were it not for the doom-palm, would be more like some of the best
parts of Europe than Africa is supposed to be. The animals seen to day
were two wild boars and some wild oxen. A couple of lions, a male and a
female, come out nearly every night and serenade the villagers of
Bogussa at their hut doors. The filthy vultures of Zinder are spread
through all this fine country. Many doves and water-fowl were seen. We
forded several stagnant streams of water, but of very small magnitude.
I sheltered myself in the afternoon under a magnificent tree, called in
Bornouese _kamdu_, and in Soudanese, _samia_. We are beginning to see
very fine trees, casting an impervious shade, under which the weary
traveller deliciously reposes in the hot clime. To-day I suffered most
dreadfully from my horse; with a camel I should have felt nothing, but I
must submit: there is no remedy.
I believe the Kashalla to be a very good man, and above his plundering
countrymen generally, but habit induces him to wink at the acts of
brigandage committed by his people. I observed him yesterday stop a
little boy with a load on his head, and tell him to run away from the
people coming up, and take another road, that the caravan might not
plunder him.
I had an affair with Yusuf yesterday morning: two boxes of biscuit had
been left entire in his room at Zinder, and now one of them was found
opened and a quantity of the biscuit taken out. He and his son have
eaten nearly all the biscuit on the road, together with the Sfaxee and
others. It is preposterous to think that Government sent these biscuits
for them, who can eat ghaseb, ghafouley, and any grain of this country,
and thrive on such food. The Germans gave away their biscuit,
complaining that it was an embarrassment to them. This encouraged the
people to plunder me of mine, and now I have little left for the rest of
my travelling in Africa during the present journey.
_12th._--We started early; the weather always cool, with fresh breezes
from the east. All our people seem in good health. I got up rather
stiff, having had a good fall from my horse yesterday. We made only
three hours and a-half, part north-east and the rest due east. When I
dismounted I felt less fatigued, and wrote up my journal. We passed
several villages _en route_ during these few hours; they occur, indeed,
only about half-an-hour apart: viz. first in order after Bogussa,
Gerremari, then Lekarari, Algari, a village of fighi pedagogues,
Giddejer, and then Collori, where we have halted. It is said we shall
still be three days before we get to the Sultan Minyo, and we have to
pass Gamatak, Barataua, Birmi, Wonchi, Tungari, and finally, on the
third day, early, we are to arrive at Gurai, the capital, governed by
Minyo or Minyoma. Bogussa is the first district under the sway of this
personage. We have in his name a remarkable instance of how in Africa
names of cities and countries are confounded with those of their
provinces. Hitherto, I and my interpreter had always taken it for
granted that Minyo was the name of the capital of the province, not of
the prince; so we understood from everybody, and only to-day we learn
that Gurai is the name of the capital, whilst the province is called
after the name of the prince, i.e. Minyo, or Minyoma.[21]
[21] It is worth while leaving this mistake of Mr. Richardson
or his informants, as an illustration of the great
difficulty that exists in eliciting accurate facts from
natives of Africa and other uncivilised countries.--ED.
Our route this morning lay through a remarkably fine district, teeming
with fertility, and requiring only the hand of industry to render it the
richest country in the world. Not a ten-thousandth part of the soil is
cultivated. We met a troop of schoolboys with their masters; their
boards, bedaubed with Arabic characters, would have been an effectual
protection for them against a troop of horsemen a thousand times larger
than ours. But, nevertheless, a poor woman, or a girl with a bowl of
milk or a little butter, could not pass unscathed. Such is morality
here. May there not, however, be some promise in this respect for
education? A woodman left his axe a moment on the roadside; one of our
troopers immediately went off and seized it. The woodman, returning,
followed the trooper to the Kashalla, and falling down, and throwing
dust over his head, begged for his axe as for his life. The Kashalla
could not withstand the appeal, and ordered his trooper to restore the
axe. The fellow had concealed the axe, and it was lucky the owner
discovered the thief so soon. The poor man went away very thankful,
thanking me also. I believe I may be some check on these depredations,
for I told my interpreter last night that I never saw a village, or any
people, pillaged in the Christian countries; in fact, that I could not
have hitherto believed that men could do the things which I saw done
that day by the servants of the Kashalla. It is probable he will mention
what I said to some one, and it will get to the ears of the said
Kashalla. The Africans, in plundering one another, appear as if they
were avenging some old grudge; as if they remembered the various
occasions when they themselves had been pillaged. They rob with
wonderful _gusto_.
A monotonous uniformity begins to prevail over all these tracts. I am
afraid I shall soon get tired of this negro population and these towns,
all built and all peopled in the same manner. They seem remarkably
curious at first, but curiosity soon palls.
We have with us the Hajah, mentioned before. She is very quiet, being
_passee_, and also afraid of the Sheikh's people.
I went round the village and found some five hundred or six hundred
people nestled together. All the villages which we passed to-day have a
similar population. I saw the preparations for a wedding; it was a most
amusing sight. Two enclosures were crowded with people, all busy; but
the busiest were those grinding corn for the marriage-feast. The
bridegroom was with one group, haranguing them in the most persevering
manner, and rattling a hollow gourd filled with small stones. The group
replied in chorus, all on their knees, bending forward, rubbing grain
between two stones. The other group went on by themselves. Then, in an
enclosure close by, was the bride, attended with, all her maiden
friends, jammed together in a hut, all busy, doing nobody knows what. It
was with great difficulty I could get a peep at her. The bride and her
friends were distinguished by having a sort of brass nail-head driven
through the right nostril of their noses. Good big boys were running
about quite naked. But the conduct of the people, old and young, was
quite decent.
The bridegroom followed me to my tent, rattling his calabash for a
present, singing my praises cheaply enough, for I gave him a very small
present indeed. They have no set songs; all their singing is extempore.
Afterwards I saw a man afflicted with palsy in his head. He applied to
me for a remedy, but I could only recommend him to bathe himself every
day in warm water, which will never be done; for these people are too
indolent to perform any labour of this kind, even if it be to save their
lives.
My new interpreter, Mohammed, pretends that slave servants, or agents,
are thought more of, that is, are more useful, than free people in
Bornou. This may be accounted for by the absolute control which a master
can exercise over his slave.
The thermometer at sunset ranges 84 deg.. It was very warm this afternoon.
Here and there an ostrich egg tops the conical roofs of the huts, from
Damerghou to this place. I showed the people my watch, and put it to
their ears that they might hear it tick, tick; and I may observe a
singularity on this. The people did not say, "Oh! how it ticks!" but
"Kal, kal!" so that kal, kal, is the sound which we express by tick,
tick, in our language.
_13th._--As usual, we rose before sunrise, and started as soon as
possible. We made four hours in the forenoon, and rested at a well
called Birni Gamatak. The village is near the well, but we did not go to
it. From this place to the Tuarick country, Gurasu, there are four short
days; but the road has no water in this season. The Kaid of the village
paid us a visit, and brought us ghaseb-water. I amused him and his
people with my watch and compass. After resting till 4 P.M. we started
again. At Birni Gamatak a zone of mountainous country begins, consisting
of granite, gneiss, and other varieties of primitive rocks. We had a
magnificent ride through a fine rocky country. After one hour and a-half
we passed Wonchi to the right, or south of us; a small village. On the
route we had a boundless vista through the hills, over a vast plain,
covered with a scattered forest, extending without end towards the
north. This country is overrun by Tuaricks; all, however, living in
friendship with the Sheikh. We made five hours and a-half, always east,
so that we did not arrive at Tungari till long after daylight. Tungari
consists of two or three considerable villages, having a population of
about two thousand. Here I saw a greater number of date-trees than I had
yet seen in Soudan. There were larger plantations, and many gardens. I
have nothing particular to observe respecting this place, except that
the people showed more boldness than the population subjected to the
Sultan of Zinder; because the Sultan of Minyo gives them more protection
against the Bornou marauders, or Government servants, travelling through
the country. I went to bed thoroughly fatigued.
_14th._--We rose at daybreak and went off immediately, and made four
hours north-east, and then from a fine rising ground had a splendid view
of all the town of Gurai. Our route yesterday and to-day began in a
south-easterly direction, and after continuing east for some time
gradually turned round to north-east, so that we have our faces again
toward the northern desert. Yesterday I felt, for the first time, this
approaching warm season--a hot wind, which, curiously enough, now comes
from the north, whereas before it always came from the south.
Gurai is very bare of trees, the townspeople having burnt them all up. I
kept a-bed all day, to recruit myself from fatigue. The Kashalla went to
salute the Sultan, who inquired after me. They reported my state, and
said I should come to see him in the morning (i.e. of next day).
According to a Gatronee, Kellai, a country of the Tuaricks, is one day
only north-west from Gurai. It is a small village. Gurasu is five days
from this, north-west. Dallakauri, also a Tuarick country, is one day
northwards, or north-east. This is a large place. Bultumi, another
Tuarick country, small; one day, east. Malumri, one day and a-half east.
Therrai, a small place, a day beyond Dallakauri, north-west, two days
from this. Chokada, a small place, five or six hours from this. All
these places are inhabited by the Tuarick tribe of Duggera, viz. Kellai,
Gurasu, Dallakauri, Bultumi, Malumri, Therrai, and Chokada. This tribe
infests the upper part of the route of Bornou, that between the Tibboos
and Kuka. Formerly they were great bandits, but now they fear the Sultan
of Minyo, and begin to desist from their bad trade and turn to more
peaceful habits. Bunai is one day and a-half south from Buroi, formerly
the capital of the province of Minyo, and where the father of the
present Sultan resided. It is a little less than Burai. Here we are told
that, after all, Minyo is _not_ the name of the Sultan, as before
mentioned, but the name of the province, which is sometimes called
Minyoma, as being more euphonic; but all people love harmony in
language. This province is considered the most powerful of the empire of
Bornou.
_15th._--Having selected my present for his highness the Sultan,
consisting of a piece of cotton velvet for a tobe (ten mahboubs), a head
of sugar, a little cinnamon and cloves, a piece of muslin for turbans,
and a cotton handkerchief, I paid my visit under the escort of the
Kashalla, and the Sultan's major-domo, a man carrying a large stick with
a great knob at the end. We went straight to the palace, a considerable
building, built of clay, like the Sultan's house at Zinder, in the shape
of a fort or castle.
We were first ushered into an audience-room or hall, of large
dimensions, with little light, adapted for an African climate. It is
newly built, and indeed not yet finished. The architecture is the same
as the public buildings or houses of the chief officers in Kuka. Here we
waited a quarter of an hour, during which time the people poured in from
all quarters. At length we were ushered into the presence. I found the
Sultan to be a good-looking black, with features not much stamped with
the negro character. He was about the age of forty-five or fifty. His
costume was truly royal, consisting of a loose tobe of purple silk, and
a black burnouse, embroidered, thrown over it. He wore a turban of
Egyptian form, and very handsome. His highness received me very affably,
and I took my seat near him, on a pic-nic stool which I have with me. I
shook hands, and doffed my hat. There was no throwing of dust about, as
at Zinder. But we found the Sultan already seated, with all his
courtiers and officers around him. His highness asked about my health,
and the Tuaricks. He observed, "The Tuaricks are afraid of you." Some
persons of that tribe, perhaps, have given him this false view of the
case, pretending that the Tuaricks are afraid I am come to spy out the
country, to be taken possession hereafter by the Queen. His highness
minutely scanned all my European clothes, making many inquiries about
them. All the people were highly delighted to see me throw aside my
miserable Soudan tobe, and dress in my European costume. In fact, I
don't know what I should have done without these clothes. The people
then pulled off my boots, and burst out into an involuntary exclamation
of astonishment when they saw my white leg under my stocking. My face
and hands are both pretty well tanned, and the quality of the European
skin is not so visible as in the parts of the body covered. His highness
then inquired whether there was war in Europe, and whether peace existed
between England and the Porte. He was very anxious to continue his
questions, but there being two or three hundred persons present, he was
obliged to defer them till the evening. I was much gratified with the
sight. It was really a scene of African state, but without deformities.
There was no blood, no slaying of victims, no abject ceremonies; nothing
to offend the eye of the European. We merely saw, seated on a raised
platform, a black, robed in barbaric style of splendour, with a hundred
courtiers and officers squatted on the ground him, all humble beings,
but not abject.
On returning, his highness sent our caravan four bullocks, to be
slaughtered for our use. To-day was market-day, but there was no stock
of consequence here, there being little foreign commerce. There may be a
score of foreign merchants, nearly all from Fezzan, but they are mere
traders, and only bring a few things for the Sultan and his chief
officers. These merchants say that there is no money here, nor, indeed,
in Bornou.
The place for money is Kanou. All the wealth of Central Africa is,
according to them, concentrated there. Kanou is, in fact, the London of
Soudan. I asked a merchant here, who was accounted rich; that is, who
was a _Maidukia_? He replied, "One with property to the amount of a
thousand dollars." Even a man with five hundred is accounted a somebody.
Such is the estimate of wealth here. I expect to find all Bornou
miserably poor.
In the evening I waited again on his highness, according to appointment.
He had descended from his throne, and divested himself of all his
splendour, being now dressed in a plain tobe and burnouse. He received
us squatted on a carpet upon the ground, in an inner court, and reminded
me much of a stage king who had undressed after the performance. I
produced all my wonderful things to amuse his highness,--my compass,
spyglass, kaleidoscope, spectacles, peepshow, &c. In this way I amused
him for an hour, he the while asking questions about my personal habits.
Our people then told him the sovereign of England was a woman. "_Kamo?_"
To which I replied, "_Kamo._" I was then requested to read some English,
which I did from Milton. I always exhibit a small edition of Milton's
poetry, with gilt edges and morocco binding, which greatly surprises all
people accustomed to the use of books. The Kashalla then told his
highness that I washed my face and hands continually, but did not pray.
I explained through my interpreter that now, in a foreign country, I
read my prayers, and that we had the Gospel; and he added, "The Zebour,"
Psalms of David. All educated Muslims are acquainted with or have heard
of the Psalms of David. I take out a copy of the Gospel and Psalms in
Arabic, that every educated Mahommedan may see that we English are not
the En-Sara or Kerdies of Africa, but have a God and a religion. The
inconvenience of this is, that it leads sometimes to talking and
disputing on religion, not always in season. A prudent man, however,
will evade all difficulties without compromising his belief. We had
again present a hundred people, or more, and his highness was disturbed
at the number, but did not like to send them away. He asked me how old I
was; and of my servants, whether I was married, &c.
I returned pleased with my visit, although I lost one of my peepshows;
for the Kashalla was foolish enough to tell me to give it to his
highness. This is the danger of exhibiting these things. I took to the
prince a small present of rings, silk, bracelets, and a necklace of mock
pearls for his ladies; and hope to get back my peepshow by exchanging it
for some such trinkets. This was a cool day, with a fresh breeze
continually blowing.
_16th._--I rose in a quieter state, though I have been much fatigued
these last few days. It is expected we shall be here two or three days
more. Fifteen days is the time allowed for our journey from this to
Kuka. The people display greater curiosity to see me than the
inhabitants of Zinder, this province being more out of the way of
strangers. Yesterday, on returning from the palace, I had a hundred
people at my heels.
The mode of salutation for a sultan is peculiar in these provinces. It
consists in holding up and back the lower part of the arm, and moving it
up and down--to denote strength, probably; an intimation of local
strength, as well as that of the body generally. I have been often
saluted in this manner, and the mode is employed to strangers or any
distinguished person.
N.B.--The people of Kanem have not the shonshona.
The oars of the boat are now carried, as the people say, by Ben-Adam
(children of Adam, i.e. men). It is certainly more difficult to get them
through these African forests than over the rocks of Sahara on the
camel's back. Five servants of the Sultan of Zinder left this morning,
having brought them thus far, to return. I gave them a little present of
wada and rings.
Gurai is somewhat smaller than Zinder, having a population of perhaps
seven thousand souls. I have overrated the population of Zinder: that
city, probably, does not contain more than ten thousand souls, if so
many. On emerging from the Saharan Desert, where we had been accustomed
to bestow the name of town upon great scattered villages, with a few
hundred inhabitants, Zinder appeared to me quite a capital city. The
town of Gurai is scattered about on several hills, and down their
slopes. These hills are bare of trees and vegetation.
There is a dry ditch surrounding the town. It answers the purpose of a
fortification, especially as its effect is aided by a thickset hedge. At
some places this hedge is growing; at others, it consists merely of
branches cut from various trees, but rendered almost impenetrable by
being made broad and thick. These defences are quite effectual in the
kind of wars carried on in these regions.