The mail-order trade as associated with Department Stores began in a

very small way: it began with a few requests from customers out of town

asking for samples and prices of certain goods, a few letters of enquiry

regarding one thing and another. These requests and enquiries, properly

answered, brought in the first orders, which were carefully filled to

the satisfaction of the customers. They told their friends about it, and

more enquiries were answered, more orders received. This encouraged some

effort, and special circulars or booklets were issued telling about the

store and goods. These were mailed to regular customers, and a few

thousand extra sent to carefully-selected names of possible customers,

until gradually extra help was required to attend to these orders, to

answer the correspondence, etc.; and it was found necessary to

systematize this branch of the work, to organize and establish a

"Mail-Order Department." The mail-order trade grew up side by side with

the store trade. When the store was young and variety of goods small,

the mail-order trade was limited; but as the store grew, as extra space

was needed for increased service, and new goods and new departments were

rapidly added, the mail-order trade increased in proportion, keeping

abreast of it all the time.

Mail-order customers could not know but very little about the house they

dealt with except through advertisements, or from hearsay, and,

therefore, the reputation of the business depended upon the goods sent

and the treatment they received. The foundation of this business was

well laid from the beginning. The principles inculcated were that a

clear understanding must exist between the house and the customers--that

goods would not be misrepresented, that customers would be told in plain

words what they were, and that they would be found to be exactly as

represented, or that their money would be refunded; and that's what

they wanted.

The management and method were perfected, and the responsibility of

handling the business fully recognized, and an honest endeavor made to

satisfy every reasonable demand. They realized that it is one thing to

create a business of this kind, and another thing to retain it; that it

costs more to get a new customer than to retain one already secured.

Anything, therefore, that would destroy the confidence of a customer in

the house or leave an impression that would tend to injure trade must be

strongly condemned, and to strengthen this position a personal interest

in every order was encouraged and insisted upon. Mail-order buyers must

learn to interpret the customers' wants, and see that the detail of

every order is carefully attended to. The correspondence must contain

the fullest explanations; the goods must always be properly checked,

packed and shipped; and every head of every department must take a

lively interest in this work, and impart that interest to the

salespeople; and only so far as this personal interest extends, from

cash boy to president, does the business prosper.

Upon this foundation has been raised a business of such proportions that

it scarcely knows any limits, and wherever telephone or telegraph, mail

or express, reaches, there you will find this business represented.

Distance makes no difference. Customers served at any time and in any

place. Catalogues, representative of the entire stocks of these large

houses, are issued from time to time, and regularly find their way into

the people's homes, no expense being spared to keep customers informed

regarding goods and prices. The methods employed have won their trade,

and fair treatment retains it. The tremendous growth of this business is

the most satisfactory proof that it has succeeded. It clearly

demonstrates that they have the confidence of their customers

everywhere, that buying in this way is becoming better understood and

appreciated; and that the method of shopping by mail is no longer an

experiment, but, beyond argument, is an acknowledged success. A

perfectly organized mail-order department is a distributing agency for

the whole country, requiring a perfect system, demanding intelligence,

exactitude, and promptness, carefulness in filling, and despatch in

sending orders.

It reaches out for the trade of people in distant towns and villages.

These places are full of bright, intelligent people, whose ability to

buy is unquestioned. They are reached only by intelligent and truthful

advertising. The mails take the counters of the big stores to the doors

of these people. They like to shop by mail. They like to get samples and

catalogues, and to make a selection of city goods, being strongly

impressed that they get something different from what the local dealer

supplies; something their neighbors haven't got, something stylish,

exclusive. The means of communication are better and quicker than ever

before. Whoever can write a letter can send for nearly everything they

want. Wherever the catalogue goes the store goes.

Some of the appeals made, statements advanced, and arguments used to

influence and encourage trade among out-of-town customers might be

classified as follows:

Whenever you order, always bear this in mind, that if you don't get

goods as represented, back goes your money to you as soon as you want

it.

The smallest order you send will receive the same prompt and careful

attention as if it were ever so large.

Where you and your neighbors order together, goods can be packed

separately and forwarded in one shipment, thus making the charges low.

Selling goods at fair prices every day should interest you.

It may be a satisfaction to select goods yourself, but your orders by

mail will be promptly and faithfully executed.

Out-of-town customers always get the benefit of any reduction in the

price of goods.

Freight is a small item where customers are saved many times the cost of

transportation.

You are at absolutely no risk whatever in ordering by mail, as you

always get the best and pay the least.

Samples and prices are sent free of charge, therefore there need be no

hesitation in asking for them.

A trial order will convince you that it will be filled carefully and

promptly.

If goods are not all right, you don't have to keep them.

The goods offered are bought for cash in large quantities, sold direct

to customers for cash and not through agents, therefore the traveling

man's salary and expenses, the middleman's profits, his losses and poor

accounts, are not paid by you.

Mistakes are rarely made; but always rectified.

Where there is the slightest cause for complaint, if you write fully,

everything will always promptly be made right.

The bigger saving is made on the bigger order you send.

No charge is made for packing goods, and they always open up in

first-class condition.

Your money is refunded every time if you are not satisfied. Goods are

bought direct from the manufacturer, and then go direct to you.

Your smallest order will be filled at the same price as the customer who

buys a thousand dollars worth. Goods marked at one price only.

Isn't it much more satisfactory and much easier to sit down at home,

look over the catalogue, select the goods required and mail your order,

than to depend upon stores where the stock is small as well as

assortments incomplete, and get something that does not give you half

satisfaction, notwithstanding that you do pay an extravagant price?

If an error is made, and it's not your fault, you are not asked to pay

any expense incurred.

Some of the most successful men of the day give you in the catalogue

sent the benefit of their thought, experience and hard work.

It may be a surprise to compare catalogue prices with others, but always

a favorable one for the catalogue.

Confidence in the goods offered at the prices asked was established long

ago.

The man is prosperous who saves a dollar on this and a half dollar on

that: the prices quoted help you in this direction.

The goods offered are _exceptional_, on account of the price; and

_rare_, because of their exclusive style.

Honest value is guaranteed for every cent you send, or it is sent back

again.

It pays you to deal where no false representations are made, but where

goods are sold exactly as advertised.

The goods offered are honest, the prices are right, customers are

every-day honest people; and that's why it's easy to do business

together.

You don't save the freight when you buy at home; the freight and a big

profit as well are added in the price.

The whole truth of the matter is--_what promises are made, are kept_.

It is the belief engendered in the truth of these and other statements,

the influence they exert in convincing, and the persistent method of

keeping it up, that attracts this particular trade; and the faithfulness

with which all promises are kept, all obligations fulfilled, that builds

the business up on the lines of perfect confidence and retains it.

All may not be agreed upon the effect the response to this method of

doing business has upon the country at large; but it is, nevertheless, a

fact that the people everywhere are giving their material support to

houses whose advocated policy is to supply them everything on which

they can save them money, and it has proved to be a pronounced success

to the promoters.

The possibilities of increased trade through the medium of the

mail-order department appear almost unlimited. The amount of business

that may be done has evidently never yet been measured, and no other

branch of the business is apparently as capable of as large development

as the mail-order trade.

Catalogues.

The general catalogue of Department Stores stands in the same relation

to the mail-order trade as the newspaper does to the store trade. It is

the chief medium for mail-order advertising. Though supplemented in

various ways by special advertising, yet the catalogue stands distinctly

alone as the indispensable means for securing and retaining the trade of

out-of-town customers; and bearing this important relation to the

business, extraordinary care is exercised in its preparation from start

to finish. It is the silent traveler, the individual salesman; and as

the highly successful representative salesman must have qualifications

that bring business, so the catalogue must have the essentials which

will insure successful results. These consist of appearance, paper,

printing, illustration, arrangement, description, goods, prices, etc.;

all of which must be thoroughly understood and intelligently carried

out, not only in the relations they bear to each other, but also in the

relations they all bear to the general effect and result.

The quantity to be issued is first decided, depending upon the number of

present customers to be provided for, and the additional quantity

required for extra circulation to influence new trade, which increase

depends upon the amount of new business likely to be done, and the

appropriation for which is usually determined upon a percentage of the

profits. Next in order for consideration, is the size of the catalogue.

The number of pages varies slightly, according as it is a spring or fall

issue, and any increase from previous issues is governed by the addition

of new stocks into the business. If new departments have been added,

additional space must be made in the catalogue to provide for them. The

paper is next selected. The size of the sheet must be accurately

determined and the weight fixed, having due reference to the weight of

the book when completed, as the postage for mailing is an important

factor in the cost, and an extra ounce over weight might mean a great

additional expense. The inside paper should be light but strong, and of

such a color and finish as to produce the best effect with whatever

character of cuts are used in illustrating. Particular attention must be

paid to the cover paper, it must be of suitable weight and color and of

a high finish, capable of producing a superior cut in colors, and extra

strong, in order to stand handling. Tons of paper are required for the

issue of a catalogue, which is usually bought direct from the mills,

being manufactured expressly to order as to size, quality and finish

specified, and delivered as required.

The cover design must be decided upon early, giving the artist time to

fully complete his drawing, and the engraver time to execute his best

work. It must also pass through experimental stages with the printer,

possibly proving in a variety of colors, criticising and comparing,

until the best effect is secured and selection is made; and to do this

and work off thousands of covers, and have each one perfect, the work

must not be hurried. The cover design must be good, both front and back.

It should interest and attract, and at first glance create a favorable

impression. It should be a quick-acting advertisement, characteristic of

the business, telling the reader instantly what it is about, so

distinctly individual and striking that it insures attention like a

flash. A good cover design is a most important feature of any catalogue,

requiring originality of conception and the best artistic engraving and

printing skill in its execution. Such a cover is always worth infinitely

more than it costs.

Arrangements are next made with engraving companies whose artists and

engravers are to prepare the drawings and provide the cuts used in

illustrating the catalogue, and whose abilities and resources are

sometimes taxed severely to get the work out as required.

The quantity to be issued and the size of the book being determined,

paper selected, and artists and engravers secured, the work of compiling

the catalogue begins. General catalogues are issued semi-annually,

usually in March and September. A definite date is fixed when the

catalogue is to be completed, and everyone associated with it in any way

must work to that end; not always easily accomplished, but possible, and

therefore insisted upon. Blank books are usually provided heads of

departments, who are expected to use them, thus preserving a uniformity

in the preparation of copy, and facilitating the work of the catalogue

manager and printer. For months previous to the issue of the catalogue

the buyers have been securing goods from everywhere, planning ahead,

anticipating the wants of customers by making extensive preparations

for the future. The world's markets must be visited and examined into,

finding out what is new in this line, what change in that, whether this

new idea in lamp goods is what the people will want, what designs in

baby carriages are new and attractive, whether this style of boys'

clothing is correct or not, knowing the latest ideas in gloves, laces,

ribbons, handkerchiefs, fancy goods, etc.; securing the newest and most

fashionable dress fabrics, knowing what styles in millinery, jackets,

mantles, blouses, wrappers, etc., will prevail; seeking out, buying and

arranging for quantities and deliveries to meet the demands of the

trade--in fact, going over the whole range of merchandise.

The department manager's selections from these goods, as to quality,

variety and price, must be carefully made, keeping in view the character

of the trade appealed to and being governed in this by his experience

and knowledge of its requirements. His descriptions must be accurate

and short, but comprehensive, telling exactly what the goods are, giving

the facts in a clear, truthful and intelligent manner. He must

illustrate his goods where possible, the better to enable the customer

to form an opinion as to the shape, style, appearance, etc. Valuable

assistance is rendered heads of departments in this particular by the

catalogue manager, who, by reason of his work, has made careful

comparison of other catalogues, and has kept in constant touch with

everything new in the way of illustrating, and is, therefore, ready with

ideas and suggestions, which are utilized to the best advantage. Goods

to be illustrated are set aside, the artist is given full instructions

as to what is desired, style and size of cut required, grouping of

articles or figures, etc., and the work is put in hand. Drawings are

submitted to catalogue manager, who with head of department examines the

work, suggests the necessary changes, criticises carefully, points out

any defects, and, when satisfactory, passes them. Each drawing must be

examined minutely. The pose of this figure, the artistic arrangement of

this group of figures, whether the arm is too short or too long, or any

part out of proper proportion; the way this skirt hangs, and the effect

that fold produces, the completeness and accuracy with which the detail

of trimming is shown; whether this hat or bonnet should be shown with

front, side, or back view, the faces to be baby-like, youthful, or

otherwise, thus indicating who suitable and intended for; in fact, all

the detail of all drawings should be examined most carefully, to know

that they are exact representations of the goods, with a suggestion as

to their uses, and that the effect is pleasing and attractive.

The finished cuts soon follow, with proofs of the same. These proofs

should be clear and distinct. The illustrations assist in selling the

goods, are a necessary expense, and must do justice to the goods. Copy,

when handed in from department managers to catalogue department, should

be accompanied with all the cuts to be used. Each cut should be numbered

and its corresponding number should appear in the copy where the cut is

intended to go, and, where possible, all goods should be numbered, to

facilitate ordering, care being exercised that no numbers are

duplicated. The copy, as submitted, must all be carefully read by the

catalogue manager, all cuts examined and compared as to numbers, etc.,

to see that none are missing and that all appear in their proper places;

anything not satisfactory must be explained, the grammatical

construction should be carefully watched, and he is expected to satisfy

himself fully that everything about the copy is positively O. K. before

passing it. A complete record should be kept of the number of pages of

copy handed in from each department, and the number of cuts received,

together with date. Also when copy and cuts are given to printer, and

when and what proofs are returned from printer and given back to the

several departments, as, where copy and proofs are passing through so

many different hands at different times, a constant check should be kept

on it.

The copy and cuts, when submitted and passed, are handed over to the

printer, an effort being made to get them in his hands in the order they

should appear in the catalogue, which greatly facilitates his work in

many ways, and materially assists in getting the whole catalogue

completed much more quickly. Proofs of the catalogue, as set up, are

very carefully examined, the arrangement of matter and cuts given

special attention, and when every page is entirely satisfactory it is

finally O. K.'d. Electrotype or stereotype plates are then made from the

type, and these plates handed over to the pressroom, when the work of

printing begins. As fast as possible, the forms are printed, folded,

gathered and stitched, covers put on, books trimmed and completed.

Special attention is given to preparation of index; every page is gone

over carefully, and, as far as possible, every line of goods appearing

in the catalogue is alphabetically arranged in the index, thus providing

an easy reference to whatever goods customers may wish to select.

Certain space in catalogue is devoted to giving instructions to shoppers

by mail, and too much care cannot be exercised in their preparation.

They should be short, but cover the ground completely, giving customers

whatever information they need to order intelligently, anticipating all

contingencies, thus preventing delay, misunderstanding and

inconvenience. People are forgetful, and this information, if referred

to, acts as a constant reminder. The special points emphasized to

customers are--to always write their name, post office, and State or

Province, state how much money is enclosed, how and where they want

goods shipped, and, if goods are ordered by mail, to enclose sufficient

extra for postage and, where necessary, for insurance or registration.

They are requested to send remittances by express order, post office

order, or other safe means, and cautioned against sending by

unregistered mail; to order by number and page in catalogue, and, when

requesting samples sent, to state definitely what is required, color,

quality, price, etc., so that a suitable selection may be forwarded.

Where goods for any reason are returned, they are specially reminded to

put their name on the parcel, so that it may be identified at once. They

are encouraged to order by freight where possible, to economize on the

charges, and to club together with other customers in ordering, for the

same reason. They are told definitely what to do in case of delays,

complaints or exchanges, and sufficient information is given and

classified in such a manner that, if referred to and made use of as

intended, there is very little liability of any serious difficulty

arising. It won't do to take it for granted that customers always

understand what to do. They must be reminded of certain requirements

under certain conditions, and largely educated in this direction, and,

therefore, instructions to shoppers by mail bear no unimportant relation

to the business, and must always be clear, intelligent and complete.

The general arrangement of the catalogue should be studied, with a view

to having departments of a similar character grouped together, thus

assisting in the general effect.

Economy of space should be studied on every page. While cuts should, as

far as possible, be of uniform size, yet they must be no larger than

actually necessary to show goods properly, as space occupied by cuts

larger than are needed is money wasted. Position and arrangement of cuts

can be so studied as to greatly reduce the cost of space. Printed matter

must be set close to cuts, and while type selected must be clear and

easy to read, yet it must not be large. An understanding should exist

with the printer that the matter must be set to save space wherever

consistent, and any carelessness or neglect in this respect should be

observed and effectually stopped at once. A saving of five pages in a

catalogue by watching the size of cuts, their arrangement, the setting

of the type, etc., if the issue should be say two hundred thousand,

means a million pages of paper saved, outside of any saving in

composition, presswork, etc. Such arrangements should be made with the

printers as will insure good work throughout. The good effect desired in

the special care exercised in preparation of copy, getting drawings and

cuts made, etc., can be largely reduced by hasty and careless

composition, poor ink, and lack of proper attention to presswork and

binding. The printer, therefore, should be wisely selected, one in whom

confidence can be placed, who knows how to set it up in the way it will

look well, and will use his knowledge so that the catalogue, as

representative of the business, will be satisfactory in this particular.

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