Tarkhana between eight and nine. Had I taken the ride for my own
amusement on a good horse, instead of being driven about as a captive on
a sorry baggage yaboo, I should have enjoyed it very much. The narrow
vale we passed through was highly cultivated; the fields divided by
willow and poplar trees, and the forts frequent. Near to Julraiz (the
head of the spring) the scenery was particularly beautiful; the trees
well clumped together; and the river, here clear as crystal, rapidly
flowing to our left. The hills, also, assumed a novel aspect; having a
foreground of lower hills of most uncommon form. Nearly opposite to the
town was a triangular one, sharp as though it had been scarped
purposely; next to it a semicircular one, &c.; with the usual chain of
mountains behind. Julraiz appears to be rather a large town, surrounded
by forts. The scenery was varied; but the land always under cultivation
until we reached our halting ground; where we bivouacked on the green
sward, sheltered from the sun's rays by a double row of poplar trees;
between which rippled a stream that empties itself into the Cabul river,
which bounds our resting-place on one side. This river is at this place
as famed for its clear limpid waters, as it is at Cabul for its dirty
hue, being there quite red. We here got some small fish like gudgeons,
some bad small apricots, sour grapes, and apples and pears, that had
just arrived by a caravan. Here General Saleh Mahommed's troops looted
five camels.
_29th._--Marched at daybreak; and shortly afterwards saw a curious stone
on the hill to the left. At about three miles passed Sir-i-chushm on the
right; a fortified town, with a fort in front of it. Here are three
preserves full of sacred fish. The name of this place signifies the
"head of the spring." The road becomes daily more rugged.
On our right we passed a fine fort; called Mustapha Khan Ke Killa. It
was built by a person of that name. He is dead; but his son lives there;
a very gentlemanlike man, wearing spectacles. As we passed he gave us
_nan_ (bread), and apricots prepared as a paste.
We halted at Killa Naziri; eight miles from our last resting-place. Here
our troops again looted two camels.
_30th._--Marched at two A.M., sixteen miles to Gurdundewar, on the
Helmund. At first we passed through a narrow defile with a stony road;
after which the road was excellent, fit to drive carriages upon; except
in a few places where there were rather awkward descents.
There were three steep ascents; one of which was very long. Very little
cultivation; and but few forts seen on our route.
A man was met on the march, who said he was a cossid from Ghuznee: that
that fort was in our possession; and that a force was to be sent to
release us.
Shortly before we arrived at our destination, ten or twelve Huzaras were
set upon by about 300 of our guard. They fired about fifty shots at
them: killed one, wounded one, took two prisoners, and some loot.
There are two Yaghi forts here: the rest are subject to Akbar.
_30th._--Left the Hah-i-Baba to our left: there was snow in the clefts;
but none on the top, which is 18,000 feet above the level of the sea.
We marched about eight miles to the foot of the Hadje Gurk pass. The
road led the whole way through a defile; at first very narrow and stony;
with a tributary stream to the Helmund occupying nearly the whole of it.
There were several rocks which assumed the appearance of gigantic
statues. One on the right representing a man seated on a bull couchant:
another on the left, at first resembled a man clothed in the _toga_,
standing on a pedestal. There were others, also, that it was difficult
to suppose natural: they may have been ancient Buddhistic or Brahminic
remains. After arriving at some forts and two tombs near a ruined fort,
the valley became wider and fertile; being all planted with wheat, some
perfectly ripe and some quite green.
On nearing our destination, the valley again closed up. We came to a
fort dilapidated, but still inhabited. Every breach in the walls was
filled with armed men. Our troops were drawn up in due form; our two
drums and one fife struck up; the bugle sounded at intervals; and the
men marched to this discord in the most appropriate manner; invariably
missing both cadence and step, until we arrived at our tents.
Twice during the day's march there were shots fired in front; and much
talk of battle, which never took place; though each time there were a
number of Huzaras posted on the heights. These men have been for some
time past besieging the forts here. The damaged one has been partially
rebuilt; and the one opposite to it appears to be in perfect repair.
Our commandant is going with his army to fight: but I am not sure which
side he takes. There was a skirmish this morning; one party posted
behind a sungah on the hill, which was forced, and the brave troops
fled.
_31st._--Marched to the forts of Kaloo. Found the road bad and stony;
with constant steep ascents and descents. Ascended the Hadje Gurk pass,
which is 12,400 feet above the level of the sea; the hills barren; grain
was cultivated in the bed of the valley, where a silver serpentine
stream meandered; and the hay, freshly thrown into cocks, reminded me of
England. We crossed the river twice; and with difficulty conquered a
steep ascent to the fort, near which we encamped. A report that Akbar
has been fighting with the chiefs at Cabul; and that our force must be
at Bhoodkhak to-day.
_1st September._--Marched at daylight over the Kaloo pass. It is nearly
four miles to the top of it. The road at first is narrow and
precipitous; and for the most part little more than a steep path. From
the top the view is very grand; resembling the waves of a very troubled
sea, and composed of barren hills of every variety of shade and hue. We
saw Bameean from thence: but though a magnificent scene was before us,
it presented no pleasing object to those who expected to remain captives
in that desolate region. The only plant here is the Koole-Huzara, or
Huzara Cass, a kind of furze that is very prickly, and grows in bunches:
it is used for fuel. As we neared our destination (Killa Topchee), we
entered a very narrow but highly cultivated valley: the grain short in
the stalk, but particularly fine in the ear. This day's march was seven
miles.
_3d._--Marched at daylight seven miles to Bameean. The road wild and
uneven, with narrow paths and many ascents and descents. This valley is
nowhere more than a mile broad; but it is very fertile, and produces
particularly fine grain. Plenty of beans and pease are cultivated here;
the former very small, the latter small and hard. The tamarisk and
barberry were abundant, and a shrub with yellow berries. We halted for a
short time opposite a fort, near which were many cows. Here we got some
mast (curds), which we found very refreshing. Looking back from hence,
we saw Zohak behind us, on a high point. At Bameean they refused to take
us into the fort; and we pitched our tents just under the ancient
fortress and city which were destroyed by Jhenzhis Khan; when upwards of
300,000 persons perished. The caves, ruins, and towers, extend for
miles. There are two large images which have been described by former
travellers: opposite to the largest was our encampment.
We had scarcely settled ourselves in the tents ere the General beat, in
consequence of the people of the fort and the regiment disagreeing: so
we went on about a mile, to such a wretched fort, that we asked leave to
remain in tents; which was with difficulty obtained: but the Khan said
he would endeavour to get a better fort for us to-morrow.
_4th._--Saleh Mahommed Khan's lady came to visit Lady Macnaghten. She is
young and fair, with a fat round face; and comes from Loodianah; where,
it is said, she was a dancing girl. Her information is, that Futteh Jung
is a prisoner, or has been put to death: his family, she says, are
expected here in a day or two.
From the 5th to the 9th we made excursions to see the caves, &c. At
first some difficulty was made: but the General sent about thirty men to
guard us and our pencils; for several went intent on sketching. I only
copied the frescoes that were on the walls and ceiling near the large
image; but Mr. Eyre made some very pretty and correct sketches of
Ghoolghoola (the ancient city), &c.
_9th._--I have daily been begging hard for permission to go and see the
ancient city; but am at last put off by a direct refusal: the soldiers,
it seems, are overworked in keeping watch over us in camp; and to
relieve them we are to be taken into one of these horrid forts.
We went to the fort formerly occupied by Dr. Lord.
Long ago, to prevent a recurrence of disputes which had formerly arisen
amongst us regarding distribution of accommodation, &c., we elected, by
vote, a committee of three gentlemen, whose fiat was indisputable--Major
Pottinger, and Capts. Webb and Lawrence: the latter also undertook to be
our purveyor; portioning out our rations generally with his own hands
(servants being scarce), as well as the food for the soldiers.
On our going into the fort, the committee, having examined the miserable
sheds built round the square of high walls with corner towers and a
gateway, at first decided that the five best rooms, or rather most
convenient ones as regarded privacy, &c., should be destined for the
ladies; and we were to draw lots for them, or arrange amongst ourselves.
Finally, it was requested that the choice might go by seniority. Lady
Macnaghten of course had the first choice. I had the second; and took a
dark cow-house; the only light admitted being from a door down a long
narrow passage and a hole in the roof. This was for Mrs. Sturt, myself,
the ayah, and _the dog_; and was decidedly the best apartment there, to
my taste. We soon _set to_: and by dint of hard working with sticks and
stones, in which I bore my part, assisted by Mr. Melville until both of
us got blistered hands, we knocked two small windows out of the wall;
and thus obtained darkness visible.
_10th._--We were fortunate in our selection; although our nightly
visitant, in the shape of the largest bug I ever saw, was sufficiently
disgusting: but Lady Macnaghten, Captain and Mrs. Boyd, and Mrs.
Mainwaring, with the children, had no rest in the three rooms they had
taken; which all communicated with each other. They had capital _shikar_
all night: and in the morning got leave to pitch a tent at the gate, and
reside there.
_11th._--When we were at Tai Khana on our way to this place, a Sipahee
came to us and said that there were about fifty Hindostanees, amongst
our guard, who were willing to join us; and that Saleh Mahommed Khan was
a man who would do any thing for money. This was told to Capts. Johnson
and Lawrence; and they agreed to sound him on the subject; which they
did: but he laughed at their offer; and pretended to imagine they were
only joking.
This morning early, Capt. Lawrence came to ask if we would allow a
conference to take place in our room, as being the most private place.
We assented. Saleh Mahommed Khan, the Syud Morteza Khan, Major
Pottinger, Capts. Lawrence, Johnson, Mackenzie, and Webb, assembled; and
our bed, spread on the floor, formed the divan. Here in the course of an
hour all was settled. The gentlemen present signed their names to the
paper; in which we promised to give Saleh Mahommed Khan 20,000 rupees,
and to insure him 1000 rupees a month for life; and that if the
government did not extricate us from this difficulty, we would be
answerable for the money. Thus they held the promise of five British
officers as sacred. In heading the paper, they insisted that we should
do so in the name of Christ; as rendering it perfectly binding. Saleh
Mahommed declared to us, that he had received orders to remove us
farther (to Khooloom), and to set out that night: also, that he had
another letter from Akbar, ordering all who were not able to march to be
put to death. He seems anxious that we shall not receive any news from
others; and had his two drummers severely flogged, for telling us that
the Kuzzilbashes with Khan Shireen Khan had risen against Akbar, and
that the latter had fled to the Kohistan.
_12th._--Saleh Mahommed Khan hoisted the standard of defiance on the
walls,--white, with a crimson edge and green fringe.
Two Huzara chiefs have tendered their allegiance to Major Pottinger; as
also Zulficar Khan, the Naïb of the province, who, we heard, had fled.
Another man has been appointed in his room; and has paid 1000 rupees to
Saleh Mahommed for his appointment: which money was laid out in
purchasing khelluts (for the chiefs who came in to us) from a Kaffila
fortunately passing by.
A report that the Andersons, Trevors, and Bygrave have got safe to our
troops: but as this is coupled with Troup's having gone to Ghuznee, we
fear it is not true; more especially as we are told that our force is
still on the other side of the Khoord Cabul pass; and the last accounts
from Ghuznee are, that Gen. Nott was one march on the other side of it.
_13th._--A large party travelling by, supposed to be the Meer Hadje and
his family. Saleh Mahommed Khan determined to seize them. They pulled
the Moollah off his horse; who only proved to be a Sheikh somebody, a
relation of the Hadje's; so they were all _bien quittés pour la peur_,
and proceeded on their way in double quick. There is a talk of arming
our men, if we can get muskets. Our valley is now almost hermetically
sealed at both ends. Akbar is at Bégram in the Kohistan; the Meer Hadje
and Zeman Shah Khan quiet at Cabul.
The Meer Akhor went off at night with his Juzailchees; taking with him
sundry ashurpees which he had received from myself and others to change
for us. This is particularly inconvenient; as we are about to purchase
all the ottah procurable, in order to lay in a little commissariat of
our own; and, if Akbar sends troops against us, hold out till our own
people come to relieve us. We have appointed Capt. Johnson our
commissariat officer.
Kurrim Beg came over to us, and Meer Hassun; and with much form and
ceremony swore on the Koran to be faithful to us. The latter is the
person whose fort Dr. Lord burnt; and on which subject there was much
angry discussion, _pro_ and _con_, in the Indian papers. He offered his
fort to us: it has a name, which the wits pronounce as _fool-hardy_; and
say it is synonymous with our attempt. The only persons who are against
the measure are Gen. Shelton and Col. Palmer. As the latter has already
been tortured at Ghuznee, he possibly fears a repetition of barbarity,
should we not succeed. The former says, we are precipitating matters
with Akbar; whom he considers as our friend. I believe both have at
length signed the paper. They could scarcely do less; as our signatures
were to exonerate the five officers whose names were superscribed as
answerable for the whole account, which we were of course to pay our
shares of.
I wrote to Sale to-day; informing him of our resolution to hold out till
we received assistance, even should we be reduced to eating the rats and
mice; of which we have a grand stock.
_14th._--Zulficar Khan, Salamid Khan, and other chiefs, joined us.
It would be great injustice to Major Pottinger not to mention the active
part he took in affairs. From his perfect knowledge of the Persian
language, and his acquaintance with the manners and customs of the
people, he well knew how to manage them, and take advantage of the
slightest opening on their part in our favour. His coolness and decision
were only equalled by the promptness with which he met the wishes of the
chiefs; giving them _barats_ on the neighbouring lands, empowering them
to receive the government rents, &c.; all which documents, though he
executed them with an air of great condescension and with the gravity of
a judge, he well knew were mere pieces of waste paper: yet they had a
magic charm for the time; which was all we required. I had again an
opportunity of writing to Sale; as another messenger is sent, in case
the first should not reach his destination.
At night we were roused by the sounding of the cracked trumpet, and the
drums beating to arms; which, in our _yaghi_ (rebellious) position, was
a little astounding. It seems that a body of horsemen were hovering
about the ruins near the images; and were suspected to be some of
Akbar's troops. Saleh Mahommed sent out his men in skirmishing order, or
rather disorder: however, it answered our purpose; for, whoever they
were, they _made themselves scarce_.
_15th._--A letter was received from some one, whose signature in cypher
was not to be made out; stating that all Cabul had risen against the
Wuzeer; that Nott's force was at Maidan last Wednesday, and Pollock's at
Bhoodkhak; that Akbar had fled to the Toba mountains towards Kandahar to
the Ghilzyes, and Shumshudeen Khan to the Kohistan.
Another letter came from Mohun Lull, corroborating the account of the
insurrection in Cabul. He himself had fled to the Kuzzilbash quarter
with his family: Zeman Khan had fled to either the Kohistan or
Kuzzilbash quarter; and the Kuzzilbashes have taken a decided part in
the business. A light force is said to have been sent to our aid: it is
therefore decided that we are to march to-morrow; taking with us two
kurwahs of ottah, which is all (out of four) that we can carry; being
very short of cattle. This ottah was purchased by the subscription I
before mentioned.
_16th._--We marched to Killa Topchee on a fine sunshiny morning; which
we hailed as a presage of the future. We were not, however, without
considerable anxiety; for our present state was replete with danger. We
had every reason to believe that the Meer Akhor, on leaving us, had gone
to Akbar, and revealed our plans; and consequently every man we saw was
suspected to be the _avant courier_ of troops sent to reclaim us: and
the cheering hope of an escape was considerably clouded before we had
been an hour on the road. Those who travelled in kujavas, of course,
could not keep pace with those who rode: our equestrian party, of which
I formed one, had halted; and, to screen themselves from the sun, had
taken shelter under some huge masses of rock. Here Saleh Mahommed Khan
came up to us; and speaking in Persian to Capt. Lawrence, told him that
he had succeeded in getting a few muskets; which, together with
ammunition, he had brought with him on a camel: and requested that he
would ask the men, which of them would take them; it being his wish to
form a small advance guard of Europeans, as a _show_. Capt. Lawrence
then said, "Now, my lads, here's Saleh Mahommed Khan has brought arms
and ammunition for some of you: who volunteers to take muskets?"
I blush to record, that a dead silence ensued. Thinking the men might be
shamed into doing their duty, I said to Lawrence, "You had better give
_me_ one, and I will lead the party;" but there was still no offer: and
he told our General, that it was useless; and he had better take them
on. It is sad to think the men were so lost to all right feeling.
We encamped near the small forts. Here a letter was received; stating,
that on Tuesday Pollock's force fought from mid-day to midnight; and
eventually forced the Khoord Cabul pass, charging the enemy as far as
the hills north of Cabul to the Jurra Tunghee, leading to Tagow; that on
Wednesday morning Nott attacked and pursued the enemy as far as Siah
Sung; that meanwhile the Kuzzilbashes seized the city, and partially
looted it.
Mahommed Akbar Khan and Mahommed Shah Khan are said to be--_nowhere_!
Sultan Jan and Shumshudeen Khan had been previously defeated at Maidan;
as also Sultan Ahmed Khan.
Reports have just arrived that 2000 horse from Khoolloom are following
us up to take us thither.
_17th._--At two in the morning we were roused by the arrival of a
horseman with a letter from Sir Richmond Shakespear; who is coming with
600 Kuzzilbash horsemen to our aid.
We marched eleven miles to the forts at the foot of the Kaloo pass;
again admiring the silvery serpentine stream and the haycocks near it.
We arrived at our ground at mid-day, and were sitting under the walls of
one of the forts, sheltering ourselves from the sun until the arrival of
our tents; when, at three o'clock, Sir Richmond arrived; and was
received, with _one_ exception, with heartfelt pleasure. That one, Gen.
Shelton, could not forget the honour due to his rank as the senior
military man; and was much offended at Sir R. not having called on him
first, and reported his arrival in due form. Even were this a military
duty, Sir Richmond was perfectly exonerated in its omission; for the
greater part of us ladies and some gentlemen had seated ourselves where
he must pass, anxious to offer our acknowledgments to him for his prompt
assistance.
He told us, that Gen. Nott had gained two victories on the 28th and
30th, at Ghuznee and Maidan; and that Gen. Pollock had beaten Akbar at
Jugdaluk and Tézeen. He also, most considerately, informed me of Sale
having been struck by a spent ball without injury; and congratulated me
on our gracious Queen's bestowal of the highest order of the Bath upon
my gallant husband;--a distinction, I believe, unparalleled in his
present rank; and therefore the more dearly prized.
We now have accounts we can depend upon of the position of our armies.
Pollock is encamped at Siah Sung; and Nott expected to march on to Cabul
to-morrow. Akbar is supposed to have taken refuge in the Ahmedzye
country.
_18th._--We marched to Gundundewar over a very stony road, having a
serpentine river on our left. Crossed the Hadje Gurk pass; which is at
an elevation of 12,400 feet above the level of the sea; but lower than
Kaloo, which is 14,000. At the end of the pass, the river appears to
gush through immense portals of solid rock.
During this march, many curiously formed rocks were seen at a distance;
one bearing a strong resemblance to a giant climbing up the precipice;
another, so perfect when near, as to render one doubtful whether the
bull couchant was not the remains of ancient Hindu sculpture. We did not
fail to drink of the mineral spring as we passed it; and whilst so
employed, attracted the attention of a party of Affghans; to whom Major
Pottinger recommended a hearty draught of this sparkling liquid; which,
however pleasing to the eye, is far from being so to the palate; being
very like ink. The grave Affghans drank a full cup of it; exclaiming,
"Shookr!" and "Joor Ustie;"--praise be to God! and they would grow
strong upon it. They then stroked down their beards; and wended their
way with great satisfaction. The latter part of our road lay among a
narrow path, on either side of a tributary stream, bounded by a high and
precipitous range of slatestone rocks. We soon came to the Helmund;
which we crossed, and encamped on its bank. Nearly opposite to us, a
part of the rocks presented the form of a seated figure of Boodh.
_19th._--We marched two hours before daylight, and crossed the Onai
Kotul; a succession of ascents and descents, and some of them very
steep, ending in a defile: after which the road was very stony. The
grain was still green in many parts; but some of it was not only cut but
carried away. We passed Killa Onai, Killa Suffard, and Killa Mustapha
Khan: at the latter, breakfast was prepared;--_nan_ (native sweet cakes)
and tea for all who chose to partake of it _en passant_. The proprietor
of this fort is a friend of Saleh Mahommed Khan's; and had given us
bread and preserved fruit as we passed before. From hence we went on to
Sir-i-Chushm; and diverged from the road to see the preserve of fish
there. I asked the name of the fish; but all they knew was that they
were fish; that they were held sacred, and fed; and that any one who
caught, or even touched, one would die shortly afterwards. The streams
were very clear, and the fish innumerable. Four miles from this place we
took up our old ground under the poplar trees at Tarkhana. We were not
yet considered as safe even here, and Sir Richmond Shakespear felt much
anxiety at not receiving any accounts of troops coming to our aid; as he
had written to Gen. Pollock to send a brigade to meet us. As Sultan Jan
was believed to be hovering near, there were some thoughts of our going
into a fort: however it was decided that we should remain in our tents.