fort refused to take us in; stating that we were Kaffirs. We therefore
rolled ourselves up as warm as we could; and with our saddles for
pillows braved the elements. Gen. Elphinstone, Brig. Shelton, and
Johnson considered themselves happy when one of the Affghans told them
to accompany him into a wretched cowshed, which was filled with dense
smoke from a blazing fire in the centre of the hut. These officers and
Mr. Melville were shortly after invited by Mahommed Akbar Khan to dine
with him and his party in the fort. The reception room was not much
better than that they had left: they had, however, a capital dinner,
some cups of tea, and luxurious rest at night; the room having been well
heated by a blazing fire with plenty of smoke, with no outlet for either
heat or smoke, except through the door and a small circular hole in the
roof.
_15th January._--A bitterly cold wind blowing, we started at 7 A.M.;
crossed two branches of the Punjshir river, which was not only deep, but
exceedingly rapid. The chiefs gave us every assistance: Mahommed Akbar
Khan carried Mrs. Waller over behind him on his own horse. One rode by
me to keep my horse's head well up the stream. The Affghans made great
exertions to save both men and animals struggling in the water; but in
spite of all their endeavours five unfortunates lost their lives. We
passed over many ascents and declivities; and at about 3 P.M. arrived at
Tighree, a fortified town in the rich valley of Lughman; having
travelled twenty miles over a most barren country, without a blade of
grass or drop of water until we approached Tighree. Our route lay along
a tract of country considerably higher than Lughman, with scarcely a
footpath visible the whole way. The road was good for any kind of
carriage. We passed over the Plain of Methusaleh; and saw at a short
distance the Kubber-i-Lamech, a celebrated place of pilgrimage, about
two miles from Tighree and twenty-five from Jellalabad.
The Sirdar desired the General, the Brigadier, and Johnson to take up
their quarters with him, whilst the ladies and the other gentlemen were
located in another fort.
A great number of Hindu Bunneahs reside at Tighree. We went to the fort
of Gholab Moyenoodeen, who took Mrs. Sturt and myself to the apartments
of his mother and wife. Of course we could not understand much that they
said; but they evidently made much of us, pitied our condition, told us
to ask them for any thing we required, and before parting they gave us a
lump of goor filled with pistaches, a sweetmeat they are themselves fond
of.
_16th._--Halted. They tell us we are here only thirty miles from
Jellalabad. It being Sunday, we read prayers from a Bible and Prayer
Book that were picked up on the field at Bhoodkhak. The service was
scarcely finished when a clannish row commenced. Some tribes from a
neighbouring fort who had a blood feud with the chiefs with us came
against the fort: a few juzails were fired; there was great talking and
noise; and then it was all over.
_17th._--Early in the morning we were ordered to prepare to go higher up
the valley. Thus all hopes (faint as they were) of going to Jellalabad
were annihilated; and we plainly saw that, whatever might be said, we
were virtually prisoners, until such time as Sale shall evacuate
Jellalabad, or the Dost be permitted by our government to return to this
country.
We had a little hail this morning; and shortly after, at about nine
o'clock, we started, and travelled along the valley, which was a
continuation of forts, until we arrived at Buddeeabad (about eight or
nine miles): it is situated almost at the top of the valley, and close
to the first range of hills towards Kaffiristan.
Six rooms, forming two sides of an inner square or citadel, are
appropriated to us; and a tykhana to the soldiers. This fort is the
largest in the valley, and is quite new; it belongs to Mahommed Shah
Khan: it has a deep ditch and a fausse-braye all round. The walls of mud
are not very thick, and are built up with planks in tiers on the inside.
The buildings we occupy are those intended for the chief and his
favourite wife; those for three other wives are in the outer court, and
have not yet been roofed in. We number 9 ladies, 20 gentlemen, and 14
children. In the tykhana are 17 European soldiers, 2 European women, and
1 child (Mrs. Wade, Mrs. Burnes, and little Stoker).
Mahommed Akbar Khan, to our horror, has informed us that only one man of
our force has succeeded in reaching Jellalabad (Dr. Brydon of the Shah's
force: he was wounded in two places). Thus is verified what we were told
before leaving Cabul; "that Mahommed Akbar would annihilate the whole
army, except one man, who should reach Jellalabad to tell the tale."
Dost Mahommed Khan (the brother of Mahommed Shah Khan) is to have charge
of us. Our parties were divided into the different rooms. Lady
Macnaghten, Capt. and Mrs. Anderson and 2 children, Capt. and Mrs. Boyd
and 2 children, Mrs. Mainwaring and 1 child, with Lieut. and Mrs. Eyre
and 1 child, and a European girl, Hester Macdonald, were in one room;
that adjoining was appropriated for their servants and baggage. Capt.
Mackenzie and his Madras Christian servant Jacob, Mr. and Mrs. Ryley and
2 children, and Mr. Fallon, a writer in Capt. Johnson's office, occupied
another. Mrs. Trevor and her 7 children and European servant, Mrs.
Smith, Lieut. and Mrs. Waller and child, Mrs. Sturt, Mr. Mein, and I had
another. In two others all the rest of the gentlemen were crammed.
It did not take us much time to arrange our property; consisting of one
mattress and resai between us, and no clothes except those we had on,
and in which we left Cabul.
Mahommed Akbar Khan, Sultan Jan, and Ghoolam Moyenoodeen visited us. The
Sirdar assured me we were none of us prisoners; requested that we would
make ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would admit of; and told
us that as soon as the roads were safe we should be safely escorted to
Jellalabad. He further informed me that I might write to Sale; and that
any letters I sent to him he would forward. Of this permission I gladly
took advantage to write a few guarded lines to say that we were well and
safe.
_19th._--We luxuriated in dressing, although we had no clothes but those
on our backs; but we enjoyed washing our faces very much, having had but
one opportunity of doing so before, since we left Cabul. It was rather a
painful process, as the cold and glare of the sun on the snow had three
times peeled my face, from which the skin came off in strips.
We had a grand breakfast, dhall and radishes; the latter large hot ones
that had gone to seed, the former is a common pulse eaten by the
natives: but any change was good, as we find our chupatties made of the
coarse ottah any thing but nice. Ottah is what in England is called
pollard; and has to be twice sifted ere it becomes flour. The chupatties
are cakes formed of this ottah mixed with water, and dried by standing
by the fire set up on edge. Eating these cakes of dough is a capital
recipe to obtain the heartburn. We parch rice and barley, and make from
them a substitute for coffee. Two sheep (alias lambs) are killed daily;
and a regular portion of rice and ottah given for all. The Affghans
cook; and well may we exclaim with Goldsmith, "God sends meat, but the
devil sends cooks;" for we only get some greasy skin and bones served
out as they are cooked, boiled in the same pot with the rice, all in a
lump. Capt. Lawrence divides it; and portions our food as justly as he
can. The chupatty is at once the plate and bread: few possess other
dinner-table implements than their fingers. The rice even is rendered
nauseous by having quantities of rancid ghee poured over it, such as in
India we should have disdained to use for our lamps.
_21st._--The weather cleared up at noon. Major Pottinger is said to have
received information that Zeman Shah Khan and all the Dooranees have
surrendered to Shah Shoojah; and that his Majesty was at the bottom of
the whole affair to turn us out of Affghanistan.
_22nd._--I heard from Sale, dated the 19th. Our force can hold out at
Jellalabad for six months. It is calculated that Col. Wylde must be at
Jellalabad to-day with 5000 men. Gen. Pollock is coming with an army
across the Punjab.
We hear that Mahommed Akbar has been offered the Sirdar-i-sirdaranee;
but has refused it. He is said to be gone, or going, to the Khyber.
_23rd, Sunday._--After prayers Mahommed Akbar Khan and Sultan Jan paid
us a visit: the latter took charge of a letter from me for Sale. He told
me that Abdool Guffoor Khan says that Sale is quite well.
They say that Shah Shoojah demanded Conolly and three other hostages to
be given up to him to put them to death; but Zeman Shah Khan refused.
_24th._--A day or two ago the Sirdar sent some chintz to be divided
amongst us. A second quantity was to-day given out; and we are working
hard that we may enjoy the luxury of getting on a clean suit of clothes.
There are very few of us that are not covered with crawlers; and,
although my daughter and I have as yet escaped, we are in fear and
trembling.
It is now said that the General gave Anderson's horse permission to go
over to the enemy: a circumstance that does not at all agree with his
conduct on the day following our taking protection; when he wished for
Anderson's return lest the men should desert.
Dost Mahommed Khan took Mrs. Trevor's boys and some of the gentlemen out
walking in the sugar-cane fields near the fort, which they enjoyed very
much.
_25th._--The Sirdar sent eight pieces of long cloth to be divided
amongst us. I fancy he is generous at little cost; and that it is all a
part of the plunder of our camp. He is said to have received letters
from the Khyber stating that our force has been defeated there; two guns
taken, and some treasure: and that Mackeson is shut up in Ali Musjid
with 300 men.
_26th._--As soon as the Bukhraeed is over, Shah Shoojah is to send 4000
men, and all the guns we left in Cabul, against Jellalabad. A Mussulman
force is also now at Balabagh.
Mahommed Akbar Khan has had a private conference with Major Pottinger;
of which no account has transpired. We had two shocks of earthquake at
night.
_27th._--A report that Sale has made another sally, and has taken a
number of prisoners. I heard from him to-day: he has sent me my chest of
drawers, with clothes, &c.: they were all permitted to come to me
unexamined. I had also an opportunity of writing to him by Abdool
Guffoor Khan, who brought them to me. I was rejoiced to see any one I
had known before; and especially one who was well inclined towards the
English, though nominally on the side of Akbar.
_4th._--The irregular cavalry have had their horses and everything taken
away from them; and have been turned adrift. I wrote to Sale, but my
note did not go.
_5th._--My note to Sale was sent to-day. I got another from him dated
the 29th, and replied to it.
_9th._--We hear that all our horses are to be taken away; as also our
servants. Rain to-day, as if the clouds wept for our misfortunes.
_10th._--I received boxes from Sale, with many useful things; and also
books, which are a great treat to us. I wrote to him, but fear my letter
will not reach him, as all notes that came for us were kept back by the
Sirdar; who is very angry, having detected a private cossid between
Capt. Macgregor and Major Pottinger: if we behave ill again, the Sirdar
says, woe will betide us. Abdool Guffoor again came to see us; and I had
again the comfort to hear that Sale was well. We had rain to-day. Major
Griffith arrived, with Mr. Blewitt.
Major Griffith tells me, that on the morning of the 13th, at daylight,
the miserable remains of the force, reduced to about 100 Europeans of
all ranks, including 20 officers, worn out with fatigue and hunger, and
encumbered with very many wounded, some on horseback and some on foot,
were, when within four miles of the bridge of Gundamuk, surrounded by a
considerable number of the enemy both horse and foot. They had only
thirty-five muskets and but little ammunition remaining; finding it
impossible to proceed further, a position was taken up on a hill to the
left of the road; and a parley opened with the enemy by means of waving
a white cloth. This produced a cessation of the firing; and brought four
or five men up to ascertain the cause. It was unanimously agreed that he
(Major Griffith), as senior officer of the party, should go to the
chief, and endeavour to make some terms for the peaceful march of the
party to Jellalabad. He accordingly went, accompanied by Mr. Blewitt as
interpreter, escorted by one or two of the enemy. On reaching the chief,
they were hurried off without his giving them the opportunity of making
any proposal. The last sight Major Griffith had of the party he had
left, they appeared to be engaged in hostilities with the Affghans,
whose numbers had gradually increased. He afterwards understood that the
waving of a loonghee is considered by them as an act of unconditional
surrender; and as our party would not give up their arms, the Affghans
resorted to force; but were driven off the hill for the time. The few
natives who had accompanied us so far did not go up the hill; but kept
the road, and were seen to be plundered by the enemy. This he was
afterwards told by Capt. Souter; who was brought to the village of
Tootoo some hours after Major Griffith was taken there. This village was
between two and three miles to the right of the scene of action. The
same evening Major Griffith and Mr. Blewitt were taken to the Khan's
fort, four or five miles further on the hills; where they found three or
four European soldiers, who had escaped from the slaughter, wounded and
taken prisoners. Some days after five more Europeans were brought in,
who had proceeded in advance of our party. Major Griffith opened a
communication with Jellalabad; and was in great hopes of effecting the
release of the prisoners on ransom: but, owing to the jealousy and
suspicion of the Khan Ghobam Jan Uzbezee, in whose power they were,
nothing could be arranged. At last, after twenty days' confinement, he
allowed one of their party, Serg.-Major Lisson, 37th N. I., to proceed
to Jellalabad, and endeavour to explain matters. The party in all
consisted of ten: two of these died, and Capt. Souter was left wounded
at Tootoo.
The man who accompanied the Sergeant-Major returned the third day, and
told them all was right. He was understood to have received 500 rupees
as the ransom of the Sergeant-Major, who remained at Jellalabad. The
party had strong hopes of liberation: but unfortunately the Sirdar,
Mahommed Akbar Khan, heard of their being prisoners and sent to demand
them. After some hesitation it was agreed to; and they were marched off
to Charbagh to the Sirdar, and from thence to Buddeeabad.
Major Griffiths was severely wounded in the right arm on the 8th of
January, just at the entrance of the Khoord Cabul pass; and, from want
of dressing, the wound had become very painful the day he was taken
prisoner.
_11th._--Rain. We hear that the force under Col. Wylde have fallen back
on Peshawer; that Gen. Avitabile, the Sikh General with them, has been
obliged to retreat to Attock.
I had again an opportunity, and wrote to Sale.
To-day all arms have been taken from the officers, on a promise that
they shall be restored when we go away. I took poor Sturt's sword myself
and begged that the Sirdar would keep it himself; that we might be sure
of its restoration, as being invaluable to his widow. Dost Mahommed
Khan, Abdool Guffoor Khan, &c., desired me to keep it myself; acting in
the handsomest manner, and evincing much feeling on the occasion.
_12th._--The snow at Tézeen is reported to be knee-deep. A very dismal
day, with gentle rain at night. The Europeans, who have arrived, are all
full of tales regarding each individual's escape. Six of them, amongst
whom was Serg.-Major Lisson, of the 37th N. I., at daylight on the
morning after the final struggle at Gundamuk, found themselves about a
mile and half on the Jellalabad side of Gundamuk; and perceiving some
Ghilzyes coming over the edge of a hill, they betook themselves to a
cave in the neighbourhood, where they contrived to conceal themselves
until about 11 A.M.; when their retreat was betrayed by the neighing of
a horse belonging to one of the men, which caused them to be discovered
by a party of the enemy who were passing near the mouth of the cave.
These men came up, and told them to come outside; which they refused to
do: the Ghilzyes then offered them bread, provided they would pay for
it; and they thus procured three nans for forty-six rupees! The enemy
then again ordered them to come out of the cave; and they replied, "In
the evening, when it gets dusk, we will come outside." They were watched
till then; and at that time gave themselves up. They were immediately
rifled of all the money, &c. they possessed; and then taken to a fort in
the neighbourhood, and afterwards transferred to another, where they
found Major Griffiths; and from whence Lisson was despatched to
Jellalabad, to treat for terms of ransom, as before mentioned.
_13th._--A fine day. Not content with the arms given up, they pretend
our servants have others, and a general search took place to-day; when
all the poor wretches were fleeced of the few rupees they had succeeded
in securing on their persons.
_14th._--This is the day that Mahommed Akbar Khan is to go over the
river towards Jellalabad to attack it. The 13th sent a quantity of
clothes for distribution amongst the gentlemen. I received a large
packet of letters, both from my family in the provinces, and also from
England, but no note from Sale; so the Sirdar is still angry about the
private correspondence. It was a very foolish attempt, for there was no
news of consequence to send; and rousing the Sirdar's suspicion is not
the way to make him kind to us.
_15th._--Firing of heavy guns distinctly heard to-day; supposed to be a
salute at Jellalabad. Shah Shoojah is said to be still in the Bala
Hissar; and Zeman Shah Khan with Amenoollah Khan in the city. They are
said to be raising a force to be sent by the former against Jellalabad;
which force is to be commanded by his son Futteh Jung. To-day we hear
that our horses are not to be taken away from us; and every thing is to
be done to make us comfortable. There is an old adage, that "Fair words
butter no parsnips."
_17th._--The ground was covered with snow at daybreak; which continued
to fall all day, and also at night. At breakfast-time we distinctly
heard the report from three guns; and about half an hour afterwards
three or four heavy discharges of musketry.
_18th._--Dost Mahommed Khan came with his son; the family have all
arrived at a neighbouring fort in this valley. There is a report that
Sale has chupaoed Mahommed Akbar Khan's camp at Charbagh, and cut up
fifty of his men.
_19th._--I heard from Sale. A friend writes me that there will be no
relief before April. At noon I was on the top of the house; when an
awful earthquake took place. I had gone up stairs to see after my
clothes; for, servants being scarce, we get a sweeper, who also acts as
saces, to wash for us; and I hang them up to dry on the flat roof: we
dispense with starch and ironing; and in our present situation we must
learn to do every thing that is useful. But to return to the earthquake.
For some time I balanced myself as well as I could; till I felt the roof
was giving way. I fortunately succeeded in removing from my position
before the roof of our room fell in with a dreadful crash. The roof of
the stairs fell in as I descended them; but did me no injury. All my
anxiety was for Mrs. Sturt; but I could only see a heap of rubbish. I
was nearly bewildered, when I heard the joyful sound, "Lady Sale, come
here, all are safe;" and I found the whole party uninjured in the
courtyard. When the earthquake first commenced in the hills in the upper
part of the valley, its progress was clearly defined, coming down the
valley, and throwing up dust, like the action of exploding a mine.--I
hope a soldier's wife may use a soldier's simile, for I know of nothing
else to liken it to. Our walls, and gateways, and corner towers, are all
much shaken, or actually thrown down. We had at least twenty-five shocks
before dark; and about fifteen more during the night, which we spent in
the courtyard. The end wall of the room Lady Macnaghten and party were
in has sunk about two feet, and all the beams have started.
_20th._--I wrote to Sale, to tell him we were all safe. At 3 in the
morning we had a pretty smart shock; and constant ones, some severe, and
many very slight, on an average every half hour all day, and five or six
slight ones at night. The gentlemen gave up their largest room to my
party, who were utterly roofless. Nearly all the others slept outside:
but we had only one crack in the roof of our room, caused by part of the
wall falling on it. The cold outside was intense; and the dew completely
saturated the bed clothes last night: added to which, should the
buildings come down, we were safer above, for the yard was so crammed
that, in case of accident, half the people below must be crushed.
_21st._--At 1 in the morning a sharp shock made us run to the door. We
had numerous slight, and three or four pretty good shocks: they became
more frequent in the evening. Part of our party made awnings in the
courtyard to sleep under; but Mrs. Sturt and myself still preferred the
house as safest.
Dost Mahommed Khan brought workmen to clear away the _débris_. He tells
us our fort is the best of forty that have suffered in this valley; and
that many are entirely thrown down. In one, a tower fell, and crushed
five women and a man: others have not a wall remaining.
We have various reports regarding Jellalabad;--that it has been taken,
that the walls and all the defences are thrown down, &c.
Dost Mahommed says that a man was sent as a spy to Jellalabad: that
Macgregor sent for him; and, with Sale, took the man round to show him
the state of the place: that two bastions had sunk a little; but that
they were not only able to withstand Mahommed Akbar, but, if he came
against them, they would meet him in the plain. It is said that Mahommed
Akbar intends sending Gen. Elphinstone away if he can get a palkee. Lady
Macnaghten has requested she may go with him; being, she says,
differently circumstanced from the rest, who have most of them their
husbands with them. Not even an animal's life was lost in our earthquake
(I mean at our fort). Lady M.'s cat was buried in the ruins, and dug out
again.
_22d._--My wounds are quite healed. We had earthquakes day and night;
less severe, but equally frequent. A prop was put up in our room to
support the broken roof. We experienced a curious shock in the evening
like a heavy ball rolled over our heads. Some large pieces of hills have
fallen, and immense masses of stone. I miss some large upright stones on
the hills that divide us from Kaffiristan, and that looked in the
distance like large obelisks.
_23d._--This has been a very close and gloomy day; earthquakes frequent,
and some very sharp ones. We hear that, at Charbagh, 120 Affghans, and
20 Hindostanees were buried in the ruins.
Capt. Bygrave arrived,with one of his feet severely frostbitten: we were
all rejoiced to see him, having long supposed he had shared the fate of
the many. On the 12th of January, perceiving that our army was utterly
annihilated, he left the road at midnight, turned to the left, and took
to the mountains; where he was out seven days and six nights. During a
part of this time he was accompanied by Mr. Baness, the merchant from
Delhi, who had with him a small bag containing coffee: on this they
subsisted, taking each about six grains a day. When this was spent
Baness proceeded on; and we afterwards heard that he got to Jellalabad,
but so worn out with fatigue that he only arrived to die. Capt. Bygrave
suffered greatly from having his feet frostbitten: he however contrived
at daylight in the morning of the 19th to reach Nizam Khan's village,
called Kutch Soorkhab, about four miles north of Gundamuk, and
twenty-eight from Jellalabad. Here he remained (plundered of course of
what little money he had about him) until the 14th of February; when he
was sent for to the Indian camp, then about six miles from Jellalabad.
He had been demanded some days previously; but Nizam Khan refused to
give him up until the arrival of the second messenger, accompanied by
two mounted followers, when he was obliged to comply. Bygrave reached
the Sirdar's camp in the afternoon of the 15th, and remained there with
him till the 21st, on which day he started for Buddeeabad; and has, as
before remarked, this day joined the other prisoners.