Nothing more unfortunate could well be imagined; for, in the retributive

manner I had already mentioned, the Africa buried in the West, so long

forgotten, took life again, and the danger to everyone had been acute

through a long period of Havana's years. We, in temperate zones, in

weathers that had no need of the protection of a special dark pigment,

had been lucky; but we were trying our luck very severely by subjecting

it to the old potencies not yet entirely lost. The danzon was, actually,

in a way beyond legislation, a masked ball in black and white, where the

unmasking was involuntary and fateful.

One, I thought, spoiled the other, like an incomplete experiment in

chemistry where nothing but an opaque liquid and an intolerable stench

was evolved. Perhaps, with acute necessity, a successful clear result

would reward the future with peace; but it wouldn't happen in my

knowledge; I hadn't a thing in the world to do with it. What occurred to

me then was the useful fact that the present scene afforded the right,

the only, ending for my story, The Bright Shawl. It would have to be

tragic, but only indirectly; nothing, I had decided, should happen to my

principal character beyond a young moment of supreme romance. No, the

mishap, death, must envelop his friend, the patriotic Cuban. He'd be

killed by a Spanish officer, through a woman--a woman in the bright

shawl of the dancer that had been preserved as a memento of tender

regard.

Some arrangement was necessary, perhaps a prostitute. Well--I had seen

her, in virginal white muslin, with the weight of her head, its oval

flattened by the hand of China, her heavy hair, inclined on its slender

neck: a figure, in my pages, impassively fateful, remote as I had seen

her seated in a gay company. That finished the story, for the youthful

American, after a vain public effort to secure for himself the dignity

of a heroic end, would be ignominiously deported from Cuba. I had been

often asked how I arrived at my plots, but more often accused of never

reaching an intelligible plan, and, until now, I'd been incapable of

giving an explanation satisfactory even to myself; but here was one

accounted for to a considerable degree. It had begun by an instinctive

attachment to a city, to Havana; and the emotions brought into being had

crystallized into a plan, for me, unusually concise.

There was a temptation, to be avoided, to tell it in the first person; a

version that had come to be disliked almost as universally as a set of

letters. Some celebrated stories had been written that way--Youth--but I

felt that it was an unnecessary charge on sympathy. While the creation

of character was no longer the tyrant it had been, a certain air of

veracity was most desirable, and the limited scope of a single

intelligence discussing, explaining, himself was too marked. The great

trouble with the romantic novels up to the very present had been that

there was never a doubt of the ultimate happiness of all who should be

happy and the overwhelming misery of those who should be miserable. No

peril was the father of a thrill, because from its inception it was

plainly impotent to harm the lovely and the brave. The pleasure had from

witnessing a dexterous job was lost in an artifice that seldom

approached an art. But we'd improved that, an improvement expressed in

the utter loss of the word hero; no man, or woman, was now entirely safe

in the hands of his romantic author; the two manners had come creditably

together.

I had become, subconsciously, interested in a girl pausing on the floor,

and, in response to my scrutiny, she glanced up with a shadowy smile. I

gazed with instant celerity and fixedness at the ceiling, then at the

upper boxes opposite, since below, indiscretion was laid like a trail of

powder, of explosive rice powder. There was no cutting in at that ball.

She was more than charming, too, with her mixed blood evident in her

carriage, her indolence, rather than in feature. She wore blue, a wisely

simple dress that showed small feet, like butterflies in their

lightness, and the instinctive note of a narrow black velvet band on her

throat.

An air of sadness rested on her, on, principally, a superiority anyone

could see. Her fan opened and shut in a thin pointed hand. A maid, I

told myself, reflecting the aristocracy of the closets of delicate

clothes in her charge, scented from the gold-stoppered bottles of her

mistress. She was another phase of what had been going on at such length

through my mind--a different catastrophe, since she was denied the

reward of the virtues in either of the races that had made her. In

Boston she would have become a bluestocking, a poet singing in minor

cadence to traditional abolitionists become dilettantes, but in Cuba,

tormented by the strains of the danzon:

There, her flax burning in resentment and despair, she might be

extinguished in the tide restlessly sweeping to the troubled coast of

Birrajos: or, at Havana, carried into the secrets of the Nanigos: in the

black cabildo of that society, provision was made for a woman.

* * * * *

It was significant that the first organization of naniguismo in Cuba was

purely African, for the hatred of its members, Carabalies, for the white

race made the admission of even mulattos impossible. This

society--tierra or juego--was formed during the administration of

General Tacon, in the village of Regla, and called Apapa Efi. It was,

against the protests of its originators at sharing the secret with too

many, enlarged, and spread through the outskirts of Havana. There the

mulattos greatly outnumbered the blacks, and they formed a society of

their own, its oath sworn in Ancha del Norte Street, named Ecobio Efo

Macarara. They insisted on a common brotherhood and their right of

entering the fambas, the ceremonial rooms; but there was a determined

opposition, open battle and murder in Perserverancia and Lagunas

Streets. After this there was a general meeting at Marianao, the early

bar to color, as distinguished from black, removed, and the infusion of

the dark ritual of Efi into white blood began. When, ten years after, an

indiscriminate society, the Ecobio Efo, was terminated by the

authorities, Spanish nobles and professional men were assisting in the

rites.

What had started upon the African river Oldan as a tribal religion took

on, in Havana, a debased version of Rome, and the veneration of Santa

Barbara was added to the supreme worship of Ecue, a figure vaguely

parallel to the Holy Ghost, created in the sounding of a sacred drum.

And what, equally, in the Carabalie Bricamo was Dibo, God, became in

Cuba an organization of criminals and finally, when its more obvious

aspects were stamped out, a corrupt political influence. There, in the

clearest possible manner, was traced the eventual effect of so much

heralded superiority, such enormous advantages, on native belief.

There could be no doubt, though, of the fact that, in any pretence of

civilization, the nanigos were detrimental; it was unavoidable that they

should have degenerated into a savage menace, not only in overt acts,

which were not lacking, but in practices of mental and emotional horror.

Their ceremony, with its strange vocables and distortions of meaning;

the obscene words that were but symbols for obscenities beyond

imagination; the character of their dance, which gave them the name

arrastrados, men who dragged themselves, reptilian, on the ground--all

combined in a poison like a gas sweeping from the morass of the past. It

held, beneath its refuge and defiance of society, the appeal of a

portentous secret, bound in blood, the fascination, the fetishism, of

orgiastic rituals, and, under that, stronger still, delirious barbarity.

Its legend was not different from the others which formed the primitive

bases of subsequent elaborate beliefs: the miracle, with an attending

baptism, was consummated by a woman, Sicanecua, who found a crying

fish--the fish was a sacred Christian sign--in her jar of water. In

recognition of this she was sacrificed and her blood put to a holy use,

and the fish skinned for the drum, sounded by the fingers, used in his

praise. Here Ecue, the divine, was baptized by Efo in the Oldan, who in

turn signed his disciple. And about that tradition, guarded--with its

instrument--in the altar, Ecue sese, the degenerate elements and

characters of modern naniguismo gathered. There were, necessarily,

changes in the Cuban form of worship--the skin of a goat was substituted

for the unprocurable variety of fish, and the timbre of the original

drum secured by an artifice. The need, as well, of finding another

anointment than human blood, difficult to procure in Havana, led to the

sacrifice of the rooster or a goat. This, now, had a crucifix, with the

profession that God, Dibo, must be over everything, and a sacramental

singing; but not the Te Deum or Laudes ... Efore sisi llamba, and the

reply Ho Isueribo engomo ... Mocongo! while the Empego, the clerk of

the service, shifted brightly colored curtains and enveloping

handkerchiefs and marked with yellow chalk the head and body and palms

of the initiates.

A diablito had in charge the offices of the catechism--Come with me;

where did you leave your feet; where I left my head! Enter where Bongo

is and cry with your brother! Look at your brother because they want to

choke him. He conducted the sacrifice of the goat, which, in a memorial

of Guinea, was eaten with pointed sticks, with the drink Mucuba, made

from sugar-cane rum and bitter broom. A strange procession followed, led

by the Insue, with a woman in a shift, Sicanecue, and the diablito

skipping backward. The sese, a silver crucifix with four black feathers,

was carried, and later the remains of the feast were thrown into a

cemetery.

The effort to end naniguismo in Havana began in eighteen hundred and

seventy-five, when its gatherings were forbidden; but, deeply

traditional, it flourished in hidden places, in the jail where nanigos

were confined and the cellars of Jesus Maria. Long before that the poet

Placido had been killed; within a few years the Llamba named Hand on the

Ground was judicially executed; and following the assassinations during

the carnival of eighteen hundred and sixty-five, sweeping deportations

were enforced. In Maloja Street a juego, Acaniran Efo Primero, with

officers drawn from reputable quarters, was surprised; the next year the

Abacua Efo was exterminated; a public clash of diablitos resulted in

apprehensions; and twenty-five nanigos were taken on Vista Hermosa

Street.

It was, in reality, Africa in Havana, brought against its wish and to

its tragic misfortune; and, planted in an alien soil, but among a common

genus, the mysteries of religion, it grew into an aberration of all that

gave it birth. Aside from this, its significance, for me, lay in its

amazing language, an idiom, specifically, composed of the Carabalie

Bricamo and a Spanish without articles or conjunctions, equally

incapable of exact images and the expression of abstract thought. But

taking the place of its omissions, was a congealing power of suggestion,

of creating, through, apparently, no more than the jumbling of common

terms and sounds, sensations of abject dread. The four bishops of the

ritual, in their order, were Insue, Illamba, Mocongo, Empego. In

naniguismo man was momban, an idiot was sansguere, a knife icua

rebesine, a pistol etombre, immortality embiguei, the night erufie, war

ochangana, the sun fanson, and worms cocorico. The language took short

rigid forms, phrases; it had little if any plasticity: Amandido

amanllurube, The day goes and the night comes. Efiquefi que buton efique

Ename onton Ellego Efimeremo Iboito, Eurico sangacurici eurico sanga

quimagua sanga nampe, nampe sanga mariba, The owl drinks the blood of

the dead and flies to the sea.

The terms of the acts of worship were particularly heavy, sultry, and

held in their sound alone the oppressive significance of fetishes as

black as the night from which they were shaped. The minister of death

to Sinanecua, a ceremony which became traditional, was named

Cuanon-Araferrobre, and the act of sacrifice the Acua Meropo. The

singers before the altar, making visible the sacred stick, Baston

Mocongo, intoned Mocongo Machevere, Mosongo moto cumbaba eribo, and

Erendio basi Bome, I believe in God and God is great; with, at the last,

silencing the profession of faith, the voice of the drum, tarinibongo.

The nanigos had been driven from the streets through which, at first, on

King's Day, Dia Reyes, they were permitted, once a year, to parade with

native costumes and instruments--atables and marugas and ecous, a

flattened bell struck by a thin stick. Their fambas were destroyed and

hysteria cooled; but I wondered about both the secretiveness and the

persistence of the primitive spirit and the delicate melancholy that

veiled the girl so faintly tinged with carabalie, resting below my box

through the rasping strains of the danzon. Had her gain been greater

than the loss, the ruin, of her simplicity; had she, dragged abruptly

from saurian shadows, been made white by an arbitrary papal sun?

* * * * *

A glimmering dawn, faintly salt with the presence of the sea, was

evident in the Parque Central when I walked the short distance, not more

than a few steps, from the opera house to the Inglaterra, my head filled

with the resonant bos and bongos of naniguismo. Havana, for a moment,

seemed like a cemetery--its own marble cemetery of Colon--where a black

spirit, buried in a secret grave, walked and would not be still. I

speculated about that same spirit in another connection--in its

influence on painting and music, on Western literature. It had affected

dancing profoundly, making it, in the United States, almost wholly its

own; and the Spanish, with whom, in the richness of a tradition and

perfect expression, no others could compete, owed a great debt to

Africa. Our music, too, it had influenced to such a degree that it was

doubtful if we had any outside the beat of negro strains.

Stephen Foster, a great composer in that he had enclosed the whole

sentiment of an age within his medium, was often but a paraphrase of a

darker melody. Foster, like Havana, was Victorian, a period that dreamed

of marble halls, set in a pitch impossible now, and yet, curiously,

charged for an unsympathetic world with significant beauty. This negro

contribution was in a melancholy and minor key, the invariable tone of

all primitive song; in poetry, as well, a lyrical poetry nearly

approaching music, there was an analogous coloring between the race and

its shadowed measures.

The reminiscent emotions that, with us, were mainly personal, in the

negro were tribal; he had not been individualized, brought to a separate

consciousness; and, in consequence, his song, practically lacking in

intellect, dealt only with instinctive feelings. Growing shrill with

passion and sinking to the monotonous laments of formless sorrow, it

belonged equally to all the men, the women, who heard it--it was their

voice and comprehensible triumph or pain; without artifice it wasn't

artificial nor ever insincere; and, as a means of gold, a medium for

lies, it had no existence. The voice of all, an instrument of natural

beauty, shared by villages, its pure quality, brought in slave ships

that rotted with their dead on the sea, gave the shallow and vitiated

West a fresh earthen tonic chord.

The negro, naturally, hadn't grown more cheerful in his new imposed

setting; and it was possible that his music had gained an added depth,

at any rate for our perception, from the weight of banishment and

shackles. He had not turned with any success to creative accomplishment

that needed mental independence and courage, or to forms, like the

novel, wholly modern. On the other side, the novel, with all its

trumpeted young freedom, had never, with even relative truth, expressed

the negro in the Americas. This, a subject of appalling splendor, had,

in the United States, been turned over to the comic spirit and short

impressions--stories, superficially, falsely, pathetic. The fact was

that we had enormously harmed the negro, and for that reason, in the

familiar process of human self-esteem, nationally we were uneasy,

resentful in his presence. We saw him, when we escaped from absolute

hatred, as a figure, a subject, without dignity: we lacked there the

penetrative sympathy which was the soul of imaginative fiction. Such a

novel, I thought, was perhaps of everything that offered the best worth

writing.

Certainly nothing more difficult could be well attempted; my knowledge,

in Havana and through the nanigos, had been perceptibly enlarged, and I

was not unfamiliar with the state in which, I decided, the story must be

laid--not in Virginia, but upon a level grey reach of Louisiana, cut by

tideless bayous and saturated with the fever of cane and cypress brakes.

A bitter novel like the broom herb put in the ceremonial drink Mucuba,

pages from which it would be hard to exclude a fury of hopelessness! And

what an angry disturbed wasplike hum it would provoke! No magazine, of

course, would touch it--it would be sold, for a week or ten days, from

under counters, and then we, my novel and myself, metaphorically burned.

A magnificent project:

A huddle of cabins at the edge of a wall of black pines beyond a deep

ruined field--but perhaps this was South Carolina--infinitesimal ragged

patches of corn, a sandy trail lost abruptly in the close forest, and

half-naked portentous shapes. There would be a town back in the country

with a desolate red square of great sprawling water-oaks smothered in

hanging moss, a place at once old and raw, and ugly with vindictive

ignorance.... The negroes were infinitely happier in Havana, where the

heat, the palms, were their own; and I was surprised that they didn't

desert the United States in a body for a suaver spirit in the air and

man. Cuba, to a large measure, with what final result I wasn't

concerned, had absorbed them in the manner that Spain had absorbed the

Moors. Havana made some denial of this, and prided itself, with entire

justice where it was true, on unmixed Castilian blood; but the other was

perceptible in the gait, the very whiteness, of Cuba's principal

city--the whitest walls on earth. This didn't bother me; I liked Havana

from its farthest view to its most intimate facade, and I was grateful

to whatever had made it.

In my room the negro, with the danzon, faded from my mind; and I only

paused to speculate dimly about his overwhelming preference, where a

choice existed, for the Protestant religions instead of Roman

Catholicism. I should have thought that the color, the imagery and

incense, of the Catholic Church would be irresistible. Yet there were,

in the United States, thousands of colored Methodists and Baptists for

one adherent of Rome. It might be that the hymns of Methodism,

sufficiently melancholy and barbarous in figure, God knew, were the

reason--the character of the hymns and congregational singing, the loud

pictorial shouts. The later religion of the negroes, in addition to what

I had already considered, was a subject to be avoided; but running

through my mind was the memory that in Richmond, not long ago, it was

common in the evenings of spring for bands of negroes to go through the

streets singing spirituals and constantly gathering others who dropped

their work, their responsibilities, to join the passing chorus of hope.

That was lost now, I understood, a vanished custom, killed by

self-consciousness; but it would have been a fine thing to hear

approaching and receding through the dusk, a stirring resinous volume or

a mere vibrant echo, a dying whisper. Perhaps that, a dying whisper,

would be the solving of the whole tragic difficulty--disease and winter

and relentless natural laws. The latter moved with great deliberation

through unlimited centuries, but the impatience of men demanded instant

release from trouble. They wanted black black and white white, with no

transition, no blurring of the edges; this was their dream, but they

constantly defeated it, betrayed their ideal. Yes, it might be that the

humility of that defeat, in the far future, would accomplish a

universally white city. Only one other way offered: a different humanity

from any which had yet appeared outside rare individuals ... but that

vision seemed, to me, as fantastic as the sentence in Carabalie Bricamo

that gave it expression, Eruco en llenison comunbairan abasi otete

alleri pongo--We of this world are all together. The truth was, honestly

at heart, that I couldn't commit myself to all, or even a quarter, of

what this would have demanded. Impersonally I was able to see that, as

an idea, it was superb, I realized that something of it must inform my

pages; but it was useless to pretend that I could begin to carry it out

or that I was, in practice, a Christian. I was tired, and my thoughts

grew confused, but dimly in my mind was again the consciousness of the

remote fate of the creative writer, an individual without even the

desire to be a part of that for which he cried.

* * * * *

Certainly I had no marked love of humanity the following morning, caught

with a small mob in a narrow passage of the wharf where I was waiting to

board the steamer for Key West. I was between the water and a wooden

partition, the heat was savage, and a number of youthful marines,

returning home from Camagueey, were indulging in a characteristic

humor--the dealing of unsuspected blows, of jarring force, among

themselves. They shoved each other, in a crowd shoulder to shoulder,

disregarding entirely the indirect results of their vigor, and exchanged

threats of fulminating violence. They were not more annoying than the

others, but only more evident; and, as the advertised time of departure

was past by an hour, and then a second hour, and the sun found its way

into our walled space, even the marines subsided. Every trace of

dignity, in that heat, ran away from the people about me. While, on the

whole, they were uncomplaining, even relatively considerate of others'

discomforts, wondering, with weary smiles, when the boat would be off,

I had no such kindly promptings.... I hated them all, the ugliness of

the women and the men's dull or merely sharp faces, with an intensity

that wasn't normal. When I was very young indeed, scarcely past two, I

had been nearly crushed in a throng after the Sesquicentennial parade in

Philadelphia; long afterward I had been, to all practical purposes,

asphyxiated in a train that broke down in an Apennine tunnel; as a

result, I had an unreasoning fear of crowded bodies or limited space;

and this dread, before long, on the Havana wharf, turned into an acute

aversion for every individual and thing about me.

The surrounding insistent good nature developed in flashes of exchanged

homely wit, varied by the attitudes of restraint, and, of them both, I

couldn't tell which I resented more. The present position of the waiting

people, the long exposure to the intolerable sun, was the result of

their patience; of that and their personal inefficiency reflected in

their official management. All the bad governments in the world, the

dishonesty and universal muddles, were nothing more than monuments to

the immeasurable stupidity and greed of the people; they were betrayed

politically not by powerful and unscrupulous parties and men, but by

themselves; perpetually and always by their own laziness and

superstition and jealousy.

The Cubenos, the original inhabitants of Cuba, were parcelled in the

bondage of encomiendas, exterminated by the passion of the Spanish Crown

for gold; when they had been sacrificed, Africa was raked by slavers for

labor in the mines and planting; beneath every movement, instigated by

hope or supported by returns, riches were the incentive and power. Men

had never, within history and their secret hearts, cared for anything

else: an ineradicable desire. There was a facile public gabble about the

qualities of the spirit, about soul; but the solid fact of money, both

as an abstraction and what conspicuously it brought, was what the people

worshipped, wanted, what they schemed or stole for, or in the service

of which they performed the most heroic toil.

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