with alterations made in 1689, at which date the sacristy was built.
It has a fine west porch, and in the apse a good flamboyant window in
six bays with a column up the centre against which, within, stands
a statue. In a Chapel of N.D. de Cleden the vault is covered with
paintings of the 18th cent. The high altar has a retable into which
are let sculptured panels of the 16th cent., and others, representing
the seven sacraments, are about the apse. The venerated image of N.D.
dates from the 14th cent. The Calvary in the graveyard is of 1575. At
the N.E. corner of the churchyard is an ossuary, transition between
flamboyant and renaissance. P. 15th Aug.
_Treffrin_ (C.N.) possesses a fine Roman camp at Kermoisan, with
remains of a tower in it. The Church of N.D. is of 1580, the porch of
1582, richly decorated, and contains niches within containing statues
of the twelve apostles; the corbels supporting them are all different
in design.
_Locarn._ The church is of the 12th cent. with additions and
alterations of the 16th. It contains the tomb of the patron, S.
Harn, in granite, 14th cent. The east window has stained glass of
1572 representing scenes of the Passion. The pulpit is renaissance,
syrens occupy the angles. There is a Holy Well with an early statue
of the Saint above it. A Calvary, the base ornamented with sculptured
dolphins. In the presbytère is a magnificent silver-gilt processional
cross of the 16th cent. In the parish are several menhirs, at Quellence
Buis, Loquevel, Grand Follezon, etc., but of no great height.
_Le Moustoir_ (C.N.). Church of 1507, in the shape of a T. The cornice,
on which rests the vault, represents grotesque figures and groups. The
E. window retains its old glass, representing the Life of the Virgin.
In the tracery are the four great prophets. On the N. side a fireplace
for heating the water for baptism.
_Maël Carhaix_ (C.N.). On the Place is a Roman military milestone
with inscription stating that it was erected in the reign of Septimius
Severus. The Church of S. Pierre (1530) has old stained glass
representing the Fathers of the Church and Bishops. The glass is of the
same date as the church. At Maël Carhaix is the cave whence issues the
spring that supplied Vorganium with water by an aqueduct.
* CARNAC, com. of Quiberon. Noted for the vast numbers of its
prehistoric monuments. It lies on the low flat shores of the Baie de
Quiberon, and is a great place for the cultivation of oysters. To
obtain a good general view of the place it is well to ascend first of
all the Mont S. Michel, a huge cairn piled up over a natural elevation
of granite. It is oblong in shape and rises to about 60 feet. On the
summit is a chapel of the Archangel, with an old granite cross. The
mound was dug into in 1863 when a dolmen was discovered that contained
over a hundred polished stone axes, a necklace, and other objects of
the early bronze age. Further excavation in 1890 has disclosed another
dolmen, in which, along with some stone implements, were two bronze
buttons. The cairn is built up carefully of stones laid in order over
a sheet of pebbles, and above them more of the same and of seaweed
had been spread, and then above this fresh stones have been piled.
From the summit the alignments of Carnac can be seen on the north. To
visit these latter the following course should be pursued. Take the
road to Ker Malvezin, and in a few minutes, on a bit of rising ground
on the left is seen a dolmen on which a cross has been erected. Very
soon after the road traverses the lines of Le Menec. There are still
standing eleven of these rows and they run from E.N.E. to W.S.W. The
total length is 3510 feet, and there are 1169 stones in them. The
tallest of them is 13 feet high, but the majority from 3 to 4 feet.
It is well to turn to the left and pursue the rows to the western
extremity where is a semi-circular enclosure, evidently not in its
original condition, and it is doubtful whether it be not a modern
erection made out of stones pilfered from the rows to form a farm
enclosure attached to the farm of Le Menec.
[Illustration: THE LINES OF CARNAC]
Having retraced our steps to the road, we cross it and follow the
avenues of upright stones till we reach and cross another road, that
to Ploemel. The road has broken through the lines, which continue
only a few yards to the east, and then are brought to a conclusion
by blocking stones, that is to say, slabs set at right angles to the
lines. From this point ensues a gap for about 345 yards where is a
little plantation of Austrian pines, a stone quarry, and some furzy
enclosures. The lines are not, however, wholly interrupted; a few
upright stones and several that are prostrate testify that there was
some continuation. We follow a new road through the plantation and
between walls till we come abruptly on a fresh cluster of stones, and
these the largest we have yet seen. This is the commencement of the
Kermario group. These started from several tumuli enclosing dolmens,
but of such only one, an allée couverte pertaining to the southernmost
line, remains. The lines though mutilated are instructive. They start
from this allée couverte and run about 250 yards to a pair of blocking
stones, planted at right angles to the rows. The Kermario alignments
run N.E. up a hill crowned by a disused windmill that has been
constructed out of the blocks, then they continue some way till walls
and a wood interrupt their course. Ten rows remain, and the number of
the standing stones is 982. The largest of the menhirs is prostrate;
apparently it had been purposely thrown down to form a coverer to a
Gallo-Roman grave that has been discovered beneath it. What is of
special interest is the fact that a Roman camp was formed in these
lines, and that those who constructed the camp made use of the stones
for their wall of enclosure, breaking up some, and employing others
in their original position where it served their purpose. From the
easternmost end of the Kermario group occurs an interruption of about
398 yards, and then we come upon a third set of stone rows, that of
Kerlescant, which stretches 885 yards, but is much mutilated about the
village. Thirteen lines can be traced containing 540 stones, but there
were others, some 40, that lie to the north, and are the poor remains
of another series of stone rows. On the east again the alignment is
supposed to describe a curve towards the north, and then recommence and
run east again to the Crach estuary. Near the rows is also a ruined
allée couverte. The whole extent of rows cannot be estimated as short
of 4½ miles.
Poor fragments of other alignments remain at Ste. Barbe, near a couple
of windmills by the station of Plouharnel, and again, and remains of a
stone circle by the dolmen of Keriaval. The dolmens are very numerous,
but not in the commune of Carnac to the extent that they are in the
adjoining parishes. An enumeration of them may be omitted here, as
at Carnac for a franc at the Musée Milne may be had a serviceable
little book, "Carnac et ses Monuments," by M. Le Rouzic, with a map.
One word of caution must however be given--not to accept the wild
theories promulgated relative to dolmens and alignments. A close and
scientific comparative study of these monuments has led to a pretty
certain determination as to their purposes. The dolmens and allées
couvertes were sepulchres, family or tribal; and the alignments consist
of stones erected by members of the tribe or families belonging to the
tribe in honour of the several dead who were laid in the dolmens. The
stone circles were either places where the dead were burned and funeral
feasts were held, or were places of tribal gatherings for palavers;
generally they served both purposes. Isolated menhirs were either
memorials to the dead, or boundary marks between tribal lands. All
dolmens were originally buried under cairns or tumuli.
The parish church at Carnac was rebuilt in 1639 and has a well
proportioned tower and spire, with spirelets at the angles. Above the
west door is a statue of S. Cornelius, who throughout Lower Brittany is
the patron of horned beasts, as S. Eloi (Eligius, B. of Noyon) is of
horses. On the north side is an extravagant baroque porch, with a stone
crown or baldachin above it. The fountain of S. Cornély is west of the
church. A tramway now connects Carnac with Belz and Erdeven.
The Pardon of S. Cornély takes place on Sept. 13, and is a curious
sight. Cattle are brought to the church and offered to S. Cornély, and
those thus offered are sold afterwards by auction, and are eagerly
bought.
_Plœmel._ East of S. Cado is a menhir standing and two others fallen;
east of S. Laurent by the roadside a menhir leaning, opposite a stone
cross. In the tumulus of Mané-Bodgad near Kermarquer, a sepulchral
chamber. The church has been rebuilt and is a despicable structure. In
the cemetery is a lech fallen. Another found there has been trimmed and
set on the top of the tower.
_Plouharnel._ The largest dolmen in the Department is that of
Corconneau in this parish. It measures 6 feet high inside, and is
25 feet long. Four hundred paces to the east are the remains of an
alignment composed of 21 menhirs. To the south the ground is strewn
with ruined dolmens and menhirs either fallen or standing, relics of
alignments that have been plundered. At Ste. Barbe, to which allusion
has already been made, some 30 stones remain of an alignment, and the
remains of a stone circle. At Vieux Moulin are six standing stones,
and a little further the dolmens of Mané-Rémor and Runmeur. Further
north at Kernevez a dolmen that has had its coverer displaced, and at
Cosquer two or three more. On descending to the south at Runesto a
dolmen half buried, and at Kerguvat, on the way to Carnac, a dolmen
with a gallery. Between the village and the station is the tumulus of
Rondossec that contains three dolmens, one of which when explored gave
up two gold torques. The church is modern and bad.
For _Erdeven_ see under Belz.
CAULNES (C.N.) chl. arr. Dinan. Once a Roman station. Relics found
there are preserved in the Mairie. The church has undergone great
alterations. The tower was rebuilt in the 18th cent., but the old W.
entrance of the 16th cent. was preserved.
_Guitée._ Alignments of quartz blocks standing on others in which are
cavities that have been found to contain ashes. There are five rows and
run N. and S. One has in it 15 stones fallen, and 7 standing; one of
them is 11 feet high. Another, a blocking stone, is 15 feet high. The
second row has 12 stones fallen, and 2 upright; one of the prostrate
blocks measures 15 feet 6 inches. The third line has 11 stones, all
prostrate. The fourth line consists of 7 stones standing and 4 fallen.
One of those erect is 18 feet 6 inches high.
CHÂTEAUBOURG (I.V.) chl. arr. Vitré. The church has a renaissance
portal. There are remains of a priory of the 14th cent. converted into
a private house.
CHÂTEAUGIRON (I.V.) chl. arr. Rennes. Ruins of a castle. Two towers
fairly well preserved.
CHÂTEAULIN (F.) chl. d'arr. Prettily situated on the Aulne which is
canalised, so as to connect Brest with Nantes. The hills rise to a
considerable height above Châteaulin, as here the Monts d'Arrée and
the Montagnes Noires draw together, the latter to be prolonged into
the Peninsula of Crozon. But though prettily planted, there is not
much of interest in the town. The church (S. Idumet) is modern and
unsatisfactory. On a rock on the right bank of the river is the site
of the castle that has been completely destroyed. The chapel however
remains. The piers and arches are of the 12th cent. The tower is
renaissance and is beautifully proportioned. The archway into the
churchyard is 16th cent., and the cross and ossuary of the same period.
P. 1st Sunday in Sept. From Châteaulin the _Menez-hom_ (990 ft.) may
be visited for the sake of the view over the Rade de Brest and the Bay
of Douarnenez. Ste. Marie du Menez-hom is a chapel (1574-91), with
renaissance bell tower. The iron gate to the churchyard is of 1730, the
Calvary of 1544.
_S. Nic_, most picturesquely situated, has a quaint granite church of
the prevailing style of fusion of Gothic with renaissance.
_S. Ségal_ (Cadwalader). In this parish the Chapel of S. Sebastian
is of the dimensions of a church. It possesses some old glass. The
Calvary is of the same type as that at Ste. Marie du Menez-hom. It
consists of a cross with a double pair of arms beneath; on the topmost
are SS. Mary and John, on the lower Roman soldiers on horseback. P.
Sunday after 22nd July.
_Loperec._ The church (S. Bridget) has a spire of 1668, and an
interesting Calvary of 1552. The porch dates from 1586, with niches
containing statues of the twelve apostles, these carved in 1615. In
the church is some fine work of the barbaric style of Louis XIV.,
especially the retable of the altar of the Rosary. P. last Sunday in
August.
_Cast._ Has a Holy Well of the 15th cent., much resorted to, especially
on the Pardon, 2nd Sunday in May. At Lelzach are menhirs. The Mur
du Diable is a wall rudely constructed of blocks not set in mortar,
probably prehistoric.
_Quéménéven_ (S. Ouen, who has displaced S. Eugene, B. of Ardstraw).
In this parish is the Chapel of Kergoat, one of the most renowned and
favourite places of pilgrimage in Lower Brittany. The great Pardon is
on the Sunday after the 15th August.
* CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-FAOU (F.) chl. arr. Châteaulin. A picturesquely
situated town on the Aulne. The well timbered heights of the Montagnes
Noires rise to the south. The castle has disappeared, and its site is
occupied by the hideous modern chapel of N.D. des Portes in a parody
of Romanesque. The very interesting 16th cent. chapel was destroyed
to make way for this monstrosity. However, the beautiful doorway
(1430) has been preserved. The Pardon, very largely attended, with
a procession bearing candles on the eve, is on the last Sunday in
August. The parish church (S. Theilo, B. of Llandaff) has been rebuilt
and is successful. The tower of the old church, 17th. cent., remains.
The patron has been relegated to a place of no consideration in the
S. transept to make room for saints more modern and in the Roman
Martyrology.
_Spezet._ The interesting Chapel of N.D. du Crann is of 1502, and
possesses seven magnificent stained glass windows of 1548. There are
chapels of S. Tudy, P. 3rd Sunday in July, and S. Bridget, P. Sunday
after the Ascension. But the P. at N.D. du Crann, the most important,
is on Trinity Sunday.
_Landeleau._ The church (S. Theilo) is fine and has a porch of 1540. P.
Monday in Whitsun Week.
CHÂTEAUNEUF (I.V.) chl. arr. S. Malo, on the high road from S. Malo to
Dinan. It is near the estuary of the Rance but is not on it. The castle
has been almost wholly destroyed and a modern castle built on the site.
The parish church, which is small, has a picturesque tower and some
flamboyant windows.
_S. Suliac_ possesses an interesting church of the 13th century. It
contains the tomb of the Saint Tysilio, as the Welsh call him, who
is the reputed author of the original History of the Britons, from
which Geoffrey of Monmouth drew some of the facts which he embroidered
with elaborate fiction. He was the son of Brocwel, King of Powys. On
his father's death, an elder son succeeded to the principality, but
reigned only two years and died childless. Thereupon the widow proposed
to marry Tysilio, and take him out of his monastery to become King of
Powys. Tysilio had no inclination either for the lady or for the crown,
and refused. His sister-in-law was exasperated and so harassed him and
his monastery, that he deemed it expedient to quit Wales. He came to
Brittany and landed at Aleth (S. Servan) and founded a monastery where
is now Saint Suliac. On the death of his sister-in-law he returned to
Wales, and became Bishop of S. Asaph in succession to Asaph, who was
his first cousin. In his old age he seems to have retired to die in his
Breton Monastery.
CHÂTELAUDREN (C.N.) chl. arr. S. Brieuc. The castle, originally a Roman
camp, was the residence of Aldor or Audrien, prince of the British
colonists who settled here. The castle was destroyed in 1808. It is
now in private grounds, prettily situated above a little tarn. The
parish church is modern, but on the height above the town is N.D. du
Tertre, a church, 2nd pointed but with a flamboyant east window. There
are remains of old glass. There is a 2nd pointed stone altar of S.
Margaret. The spire was added later and there are internal buttresses.
The wooden ceiling is covered with paintings. Near the chapel is a
picturesque 16th cent. mansion. In the parish church alabaster bas
reliefs of the 16th cent. are preserved in the sacristy.
_Bocqueho_, on the main road to Quintin, has a flamboyant Chapel of
N.D. de Pitié with stained glass of the period representing scenes of
the Passion.
CHÈSE, LA (C.N.) chl. arr. Loudéac. There are halles of the 17th cent.,
and a church of the 18th.
_La Ferrière._ The church is partly of the 13th and partly of the 14th
cent. The south chapel is of the 16th, with good glass of 1546 and
1551. Ruins of the abbey of Lantenac, founded in 1150; a portion of the
cloisters remain, and a chapel of the 15th cent.
_Plèmet._ Chapel of S. Lubin of the 16th cent. with contemporary glass.
In one window the legend of S. Lubin; in another the life of S. John
the Baptist.
CLEGUEREC (M.) chl. arr. Pontivy. Church modern, but in the churchyard
a cross of the 17th cent. In the Chapel of S. Morvan is the tomb of the
Saint, a rude granite sarcophagus. Near the church, by the roadside,
is a lech with crosses cut on it. In the chapel of the Baptist is
16th cent. glass. Several allées couvertes are in the parish. One at
Parc-er-bé, near the hamlet of Rotherbaz, 36 ft. long. At Bod-er-Mohet
remains of another, 72 ft. long, divided into compartments within. Near
by a menhir 12 ft. high. P. at S. Gildas, 1st S. in May. P. at S.
Jean, S. after the 24th June. That at S. Anne 4th S. in July. Pretty
lake at Ste. Brigitte.
COMBOURG (I.V.) chl. arr. S. Malo. Church modern and very bad. The
castle belongs to the Châteaubriant family, and is shown on Wednesdays.
It is a structure of the 14th and 15th cents., and has been carefully
restored. It stands above a little lake in a picturesque situation, and
has good grounds and trees about it. In the dining-room is a bust of
Françoise de Foix, who was the wife of the Count of Châteaubriant. The
count was compelled to be at Court, but long refused to allow his wife
to appear there, and only yielded when Francis I. insisted upon it. The
King fell desperately in love with her, and made her his mistress. The
count was forced to swallow his rage, but when the fickle king turned
to Mlle. d'Helly, afterwards Duchesse d'Etampes, then he carried her
back to Châteaubriant where he starved her to death. The castle is
supposed to be haunted by an old Châteaubriant with a wooden leg and
by his black cat. The author of Réné and Athalie spent much time here
in his youth, and his room and chair are shown. A ruined dolmen is at
Chevot.
_S. Leger._ Church of the 15th cent. A prehistoric monument goes by the
name of La Chaise de Saint Leger.
_Cugnon._ A menhir called La Pierre longue, 20 ft. high.
CONCARNEAU (F.) chl. arr. Quimper. A fishing port, where sardines are
tinned. It is also a resort of artists. Concarneau is picturesquely
situated on a bay, and is divided into the New and the Old Town, the
former very modern and uninteresting. The Ville Clos occupies an islet
and is enclosed by walls flanked by towers. Entrance is obtained by
three gates: the principal is to the west and is defended by two great
towers, and has a drawbridge. Some parts of the fortifications date
from the 14th century. One large bastion is attributed to the Duchess
Anne. There is an aquarium in the place, and the studios of the Breton
artists should be visited. The Chapel of N. Dame de Bon Secours is of
the 15th cent. Two kilometres distant to the N.E. is the Château de
Kerjolet, rebuilt and given to the Department in 1890 by the Countess
Chaveau-Narishkine. It contains a museum in which are preserved
specimens of all the coiffes and costumes of Lower Brittany, as well
as antiquities prehistoric and mediæval. The factories for tinning
sardines may be inspected. The costume about Concarneau is pretty, and
the place is noted for the good looks of the women.
_Lanriec._ Here is an allée couverte, here is also a cromlech, or
circle of standing stones. P. 2nd Sunday in September.
_Trégunc._ Numerous prehistoric monuments. A fine menhir at Ker ar
Gallon, another 30 ft. high. A stone circle 248 ft. in diameter. A
dolmen on the Lande de Kerlan 24 ft. long. P. de S. Marc, the S. after
25th April. P. de N.D. de Bon Secours, 3rd S. in September. P. of S.
Philibert, last S. in August, and that of S. Elizabeth the ensuing
Sunday.
CORLAY (C.N.) chl. arr. Loudéac. Church of S. Elouan of 1576. Old Holy
Well. The Chapel of S. Anne was built in 1198, destroyed in the war
of the two Jeannes, and rebuilt in 1485, and dismantled in 1599. On
the Lande de la Justice foundations remain of the old gallows; allée
couverte, called Le Tombeau de Gargantua, near the hamlet of Faouët, on
the road to Uzel.
_Haut Corlay._ Near the village is the Men Bixiquet, a menhir 9 feet
high. North of the Tertre aux Colombs, a rectangular fortification
enclosing tumuli, a vast number of others are outside.
_Plussulien_ (S. Sulien). The church is of the 16th cent. The Holy Well
of S. Sulien is of the 16th cent. as well. The Chapel of the N.D. de
Saleon of the 15th cent.
CROISIC, LE (L.I.), chl. arr. S. Nazaire. A little port and bathing
place. It is here that Cæsar stood to watch the naval fight between
Brutus and the Venetian fleet, which resulted in the complete
destruction of the latter. The Venetii had large vessels with leather
sails, whereas the Romans had galleys. The success of the latter was
wholly due to the failure of wind to fill the Venetian sails and enable
the great ships to move. By this means the Roman galleys were enabled
to attack each huge hulk separately, and the Venetian fleet was thus
destroyed piece-meal. After this Cæsar in cold blood slaughtered all
the nobles, and sold all the population he could lay his hands on
into slavery. Le Croisic lies on a slight elevation that runs as a
ridge banking out the Loire from the low tract of salt marsh on the
other or inland side. N.D. de la Pitié (1494-1507) has a N. porch of
1528, and a tower of the 17th cent. The Chapel of S. Goustan is partly
Romanesque, and has a miraculous Holy Well near it. A marine hospital
for scrofulous children is at Le Croisic.
_Batz_, on the same ridge as Le Croisic, is also a sea-bathing place
and in much resort. The church (S. Winwaloe) is of the 15th and 16th
cents., with a stately tower rebuilt in 1677. The pillars of the
earlier 13th cent. church remain. The church was restored in 1866. In
Batz is a little museum in which are preserved the old costumes of the
district.
_Pouliquen_ (The White Pool), also a sea-bathing place. On the rock of
Penchâteau is a chapel containing a 15th cent. alabaster bas-relief.
CROZON (F.) chl. arr. Châteaulin. The bleak promontory of Crozon
spreads out to the west and forms the headland of Camaret, then
intervenes the bay de la Chèvre, and to the north the headland of
Crozon. The church (1602-15) contains a retable representing the
martyrdom of the Theban Legion. The spire is modern. There is a stone
circle at Tyahurey in the midst of a vast lande, a dolmen at Rostudet,
and stone rows at Kercolleoch and Landaoudec. The coast to Morgat is
fine, much gnawed into by the Atlantic, and full of caverns. There are,
however, good stretches of sand. Dinant takes its name from the rocks
that shoot up like walls and towers of a fortress. The bay of Dinant is
beautiful, and here also are many caves, notably that of the Korrigans
or water-sprites. P. Sunday after 29th June.
_Camaret_ is a little port given over to the sardine fishing and to the
tinning. The Chapel of Rozmadou dates from 1560. At Toulinquel is a set
of stone rows. At Kerloch a little lake. The Benediction of the Sea
takes place on the 3rd Sunday in June.
_Lanveoc_ (S. Fiacc, B. of Sletty). Here are prehistoric remains. P.
Sunday nearest to 26th July.