Gildas. It is advisable to obtain a child as guide. The Saint with
his disciple Budoc, or Bieuzy, was wont to retire to a cave under an
overhanging rock beside the Blavet during Lent, and at certain times
when he desired to be private. He built up the face of the cave and
divided it into two parts, one for himself and one for Bieuzy. A
chapel was added in the Middle Ages, and this was restored in 1837.
It consists of two parts, and is under the rock in a most picturesque
situation. The bell is attached to the rock. The structure is of the
15th cent., but the E. window and an arch are 1st pointed (perhaps the
window is due to the restorer) and there are rude windows round-headed,
that may possibly be of a still earlier date. An arch divides the
chapel into two with an altar in each. In the outer chapel, on a
pedestal, is the bell-stone of Gildas, a slab of diorite, on which
stands a couple of pebbles, and when the stone is struck with these
it rings. At Mass on the day of the Pardon, Whitsun-Monday, and on
S. Gildas's day, Jan. 29, the bell-stone is used for ringing at the
Sanctus, Elevation and Communion. On the left side of the principal
altar is a block of rock and masonry used for the pain bénit, which
is distributed among the pilgrims. There was another bell-stone, that
of S. Bieuzy himself, but this was carried away, and broken in the
transaction, by a seigneur of Kervèno in 1660, but the rector reclaimed
it and in 1702 succeeded in recovering it, and it is now placed in the
churchyard of S. Bieuzy near the cross. The church of Bieuzy has a
modern spire and nave. The choir and transepts are renaissance of 1560.
There are three superb stained glass windows of this date in the apse
representing the scenes of the Passion; one subject, the Risen Lord,
appearing as a gardener to the Magdalen, deserves notice. The S. door
of the church is flamboyant with a flamboyant window above. A S. door,
blocked in the choir, has some lovely flamboyant foliage on it. There
is a picturesque renaissance house opposite the church. It is worth the
visitor noticing the type of well in all this district. The structure
of granite for the support of the drum for the chain is very striking,
and there is an excellent example in a yard near the E. end of the
church at Bieuzy. A few yards from the village is the Holy Well with a
niche for the Saint. The water is sought for those who are off their
heads.
Returning to the station, _S. Nicolas des Eaux_ is next visited. The
chapel is in a very dilapidated condition. It is a flamboyant cruciform
structure (1524) with a fine double doorway and with foliage about it,
and with late flamboyant tracery in some of the windows, but from most
it has been hacked away.
_S. Nicodème_ is perhaps the most beautiful example of flamboyant in
Morbihan. It was completed in 1539, and a bell bears the date 1507
which is about the date of the spire and tower. The west entrance under
the tower is peculiarly bold and beautiful, with its lace work fringed
arch. A flight of steps leads down to the chapel, and on the left is
a singular Holy Well, composed of three gabled structures united at
the back. The date on this well is 1608, but it is impossible to hold
this to be the true indication of its erection, and must commemorate
a reparation, for the character of the sculpture and the general
design are of a century earlier, and in its quaintness and originality
indicate the same master hand that had planned and drawn the marvellous
tower and spire. The three fountains are to (1) S. Gamaliel with an ox
at his side and a biniou player; (2) S. Nicodemus with a human-headed
ox by him; and (3) S. Abibo with a horseman at his side. Hard by is an
immeasurably inferior Holy Well to S. Cornelius, constructed in 1790.
The chapel itself is not equal in beauty to tower and spire. It
contains a minstrel gallery of stone in the N. transept. The
altarpieces are bad rococo. Two little oxen are stuck up against the
N. wall of the chancel to commemorate the success of an invocation to
S. Cornély. There is a very curious retable at the side representing
the Resurrection. S. Nicodemus is represented carrying a napkin, three
nails and with a heraldic wreath about his head. Most of the windows
have had their tracery removed. The Pardon here is very famous and
largely attended. The first Saturday in August is held as a great fair
here, and at it girls sell their hair. Young women wearing black caps
and not coiffes are such as have parted with their natural ornament. On
the Sunday following is the Pardon. An angel descends from the gallery
of the spire and sets fire to a great pile of brushwood and firework
hoops.
_Bubry._ The church is modern and bad, near it are two lechs, one with
four equal faces, and the other has a cross pattée on two faces. The
ossuary is full of skulls arranged in order. In the "place" is a great
granite basin fed with water from the fountain of S. Helen. The Chapel
of S. Yves is five kilometres to the south of this village, and is in
a jumble of flamboyant and renaissance. The date 1598. This chapel
drew so many pilgrims, and such abundant donations, that the near-by
Seigneur de Kernivinen became jealous, and going to the chapel one
day of the Pardon, fell on the rector and boxed his ears, because he
refused to give up to him a share of the spoil. This was in 1630. He
was put into the ecclesiastical court and condemned to restore 10,000
livres which he had carried off from the chapel, and to pay a fine of
2000 which was to be given to the hospital. P. of Ste. Helene, 4th S.
in July. This is spoken of as well attended.
_Melrand._ The Chapel of Locmaria is fine. It has a bold, square tower
surmounted by a spire: it is all of flamboyant work with a few details
showing that the renaissance was at hand. The E. window, partly hidden
by a retable of 1680, contains in twelve tableaux scenes from the Life
and Passion of our Lord. In the N. transept window is a fine Jesse
tree, in one of the S. transept the angelic salutation. Near the chapel
is a Holy Well of 1574. P. at Guellouët in Melrand, 1st Sunday in July.
BECHEREL (I.V.) chl. arr. Montfort. On high ground. In the church a
Romanesque font. Old gateway, 16th cent. House of the Little Sisters
of the Poor is here. The headquarters or Mother-House. _Les Iffs_
has a church of the 15th cent. containing nine windows of superb
stained glass, the finest in the Department. The tower is of the 16th
cent. On a height is the Château de Montmuran of various dates. In
the chapel, Du Guesclin was dubbed knight in 1354. He married Jeanne
de Laval, granddaughter of the Countess of Montmuran, for whom he
defended the castle against the English. The E. window of the chapel
is good early flamboyant and contains fine old glass. The château is
very picturesque. The Château de Caradeuc, partly ancient, in a park
with fine trees, and well kept, has within, among other paintings, two
Murillos.
BEGARD (C.N.) chl. arr. Guingamp. A Cistercian abbey was founded
here in 1130 by Stephen III., Count of Penthièvre. It was rebuilt in
the 17th century, except the Romanesque church. It is now a lunatic
asylum. According to local tradition, Begard was first settled by such
ragged hermits that the place was called after them, a settlement of
"Beggars." A menhir is at Kergouézennic 18 ft. high.
_Kermoroch._ The chapel of Langoerat, 1373, has in it stained glass and
paintings. There are ruined castles at Perrier and Leshorz.
_Pedernec._ A ruined castle at Runangoff. The Chapel of N.D. de Lorette
dates from 1514. A 16th cent. manor house at Kermathaman. A menhir 25
ft. 6 in. high.
BELLE ILE (C.N.) chl. arr. Guingamp. Prettily situated in the valley of
the Guindy. The church is modern, the old church is turned into halle.
The Chapel of Locmaria is made into the cemetery chapel. It stands on
a rocky height above the river and the road to Trégrom. It is late
flamboyant, the pillars are surrounded by stone seats. The W. door has
boldly carved foliage in coarse granite. The roodscreen, with figures
and foliage in the panels of the gallery, has been removed to the W.
end.
_Plounevez-Moedec_ on very high ground, traversed by the main road from
Paris to Brest, straight as a bowstring. The church has a 2nd pointed
arcade and E. windows and N. aisle. The rest flamboyant. The gallery
at the W. end is one removed from the chapel of Keramanach, with the
vaulting wantonly taken away. The tower, renaissance, has been restored
recently. The chapel of _Keramanach_ (S. Fiacre) may be visited equally
well from Belle Ile or from Plouaret. It is late 2nd pointed with
square end, E. window and S.E. window of same period, as also N. aisle.
There are remains of good stained glass in the windows. The porch has
rich 16th cent. groining. The W. bell turret has a gallery. The chapel
contains a fine alabaster reredos of the 15th cent., each panel has
been let into a wooden frame. On the road from Plounevez to Trégrom is
a menhir 30 ft. high.
_Locquenvel._ Church of 15th and 16th cents. with stained glass
representing the legend of S. Envel.
BELZ (M.) chl. arr. Lorient. In very desolate country. The road
from Auray runs through plantations of Austrian pine grown for the
Welsh collieries, or over furzy moors. Belz itself is an utterly
uninteresting place, with an ugly church, and a ruinous but large
chapel near it. Belz lies, however, near the curious inland sea of
Etel, and was formerly head of a pou or pagus. A mile and a half
beyond Belz is the hamlet of S. Cadou, occupied entirely by fishermen
and their families. The women wear scarlet petticoats which they take
care to display. A stone causeway 140 ft. leads to the _Isle of S.
Cadou_ and his chapel. S. Cadoc, son of Gwynllyw, King of Gwent or
Monmouthshire, arrived here about 525 and founded a monastery and
school on the island. To facilitate the passage and repassage of his
pupils he constructed the causeway, having learned the art of dyking at
Llancarvan. It was here, pacing it with Gildas, that they discussed the
salvability of Virgil. Cadoc, who loved that author, could not believe
that he was lost, but Gildas held the harsher view. As they talked,
Cadoc turned over his Virgil to point out some remarkable passages,
probably the prophecy of the Incarnation, to his friend, when the wind
swept the volume out of his hand into the sea. He slipped in rushing
to recover it, and some pieces of iron in the causeway are supposed to
indicate where his foot slid. Only with difficulty did Cadoc recover
the precious book. The chapel has an early Romanesque apse, with rudely
carved capitals to the pillars supporting the chancel arch. The chapel
was much spoiled at its alteration in 1842. In the S. transept is the
stone bed of S. Cadoc with a receptacle under it, in which strange
sounds are thought to be heard. These are due to the echo of the waves
and winds. The gallery of the flamboyant screen has been removed to the
W. end. In the nave are four paintings. (1) S. Cadoc arriving at the
isle; (2) S. Cadoc settling on it; (3) Pirates land and he protests
that he has nothing; (4) Cadoc departing, with the inscription:--
Oratoire mon œuvre adieu, dit-il pleurant,
Belz t'oublierai je? Non. Il cingla de céans.
P. S. after 21st Sept. Numerous megalithic remains are to be found
about Belz. A menhir at Kervoen, another at Mélionec; remains of an
allée couverte 30 ft. long at Kernours; a dolmen in good condition
at Kerlutu; others at Kerhuen, Kervoen and Kerlourd. At Crubelz in a
tumulus is a chamber of masonry nearly 11 ft. high. Roman bricks were
found in it, and it would seem to have been constructed in Gallo-Roman
times, but in accordance with earlier traditions and usages.
[Illustration: LINES OF ERDEVEN]
_Locoal_, on an arm of the sea of Etel, united to the mainland by
a causeway like that at S. Cadou. Locoal was a locus penitentiæ of
S. Gudeval or Gurval, Bishop of Aleth. He scooped out a cave and
dwelt therein. Disciples came to him to the number of 188. To protect
themselves against the high tides they erected the dykes that still
remain. At length, desiring greater retirement in his extreme old
age, Gudeval retired with seven disciples into the forest of Camors,
where he died in 640. Some lechs remain; one near the cemetery is 4
ft. high, with a cross cut on it in relief, surmounted by a circle and
cross. Another on the way from Locoal to Mendon, 7 ft. 6 in. high,
with two crosses cut on it, bears on it the words CRUX PROSTLON; it is
the tombstone of the wife of Count Pasquitien, the murderer of King
Solomon. She died in 875. The parish church was burnt by the Spaniards
in 1592, and again accidentally in 1765.
_Etel_, at the mouth of the channel that connects the inland sea with
the ocean, is a small port partly closed by a rock and by moving sands.
Near the village is a dolmen with seven supporters. A little further on
is one with five.
_Erdeven_ (Ar deven = on the sand-downs). All this district is covered
with wind-blown sands. The most remarkable prehistoric monument is the
alignment of Kerzerho, which extends over two miles and a quarter, and
is composed of 1030 stones, with, however, gaps caused by pilferers.
Unhappily the stones are still being broken up and carried away. The
lines are on the S. and S.E. of the village. After passing an isolated
menhir and a ruined cairn, the rows are reached running east. Then
comes a gap where the stones have been carried off to build walls,
but presently they reappear, the blocks smaller. Then ensues another
hiatus, and then another succession of ranges of fine stones stretching
to a tumulus. The northern line reaches to a tumulus, the Mané Bras. On
the summit are the ruins of two dolmens, with traces of an enclosing
circle of uprights. To the east of Kerangre is another group of
monoliths. At Mané Groh are two dolmens. The dolmen of Corcomo is the
finest in Morbihan.
_Plouhinic._ Near Kerfourchen two fallen dolmens and a menhir. From the
windmill to the west alignments running S.E. Near the Mill of Gueldra
the lines recommence in eight rows, and may be traced to Kervué and
Kervelhué.
BOURBRIAC (C.N.) chl. arr. Guingamp. The church is in part Romanesque,
and possesses a crypt. The windows are of 15th cent. The tower 1635. At
Tanvedou is a tumulus enclosing a dolmen.
_S. Adrien._ Chapel of Avangour, 1576, with marble retable of same
period.
_Cadout_ (S. Illtyd). Church of 14th and 15th cents., with a sculptured
retable. On high ground the manor house of Bois-de-la-Roche, 15th cent.
restored.
BRÉHAT (ISLE DE) (C.N.). Opposite Roscoff lighthouses. On the Isle of
Lavré the remains of a Celtic monastery have been traced, consisting
of a group of bee-hive huts and an oblong chapel. One hut is fairly
perfect, and is kept in repair as a sea mark. In the church is
preserved a piece of oriental silk called the stole of S. Pol de Léon.
* BREST (F.) chl. d'arrond. Was a fishing village about a mediæval
castle on the site of a Roman camp, till Cardinal Richelieu resolved
on giving to France the command of the seas, when he fixed on Brest
for a great dockyard, 1631. His undertaking was not followed up by
Mazarin, but Colbert pursued it with energy, and extensive works were
executed. Thanks to this great minister and to Admiral Duquesne,
Brest became a naval and military port of the first class. The Breton
parliament had not relished the undertaking, and forbade the delivery
of timber to the royal works, and ordered the cessation of the forging
of cannon, but the royal will was supreme, and the opposition of the
parliament disregarded. The port was extended, and the rocks blasted;
barracks, storehouses, workshops, were created, and fine quays were
constructed. Vauban fortified it, Recouvrance was united to Brest by
a turning bridge. From Brest issued a fleet of 80 ships of the line
under Tourville in the naval campaigns of 1690 and 1691. In 1694 an
Anglo-Dutch fleet in vain attempted an attack on Brest. In the 18th
cent. its quays and fortifications were extended. Granite basins were
constructed capable of receiving vessels of 120 guns. Dajot, whilst
engaged on the defences of the place, constructed the terrace planted
with elms, that gives such a fine view of the harbour. Issuing from
Brest, the fleet commanded by d'Orvilliers met, July 27, 1778 the
English fleet off Ouessant. A French convoy was guarding a fleet of
vessels laden with grain from America, when it was attacked by Admiral
Howe. The French were under Admiral Villaret de Joyeuse. The English
fleet, which had been in quest, had been for four days unable to find
the French owing to fog. The engagement took place on the 27th July.
There were 26 French men-of-war and 35 English.
After Trafalgar Napoleon abandoned the ambition of making France a
great naval power, and it was not till under Napoleon III. that fresh
activity was displayed at Brest.
The harbour is perhaps the finest in Europe. It is 36 kilometres in
circumference, and is entered only through the channel of the Goullet,
illumined by five lighthouses.
The castle of the 13th cent., on a precipitous rock, is flanked by
seven towers; the two largest are on the N.E., and the entrance is
between them. The tower of Azenore belongs to the end of the 12th
cent., and takes its name from the mother of S. Budoc, who was daughter
of the Count of Léon, and married to the Count of Goelo. The tower
of Caesar of the 12th cent., that des Anglais is of 1374, that de la
Madelaine is of the 15th cent., as is also the donjon.
Brest, apart from its dockyard, is a very uninteresting place. The
Church of S. Louis (1692-1778) is ugly, with modern stained glass in
the French style representing Breton saints. But Brest may be made a
centre for some interesting excursions, as to _Landevennec_, which is
more easily reached from Brest by steamer than by road.
_Landevennec_ is where a very important abbey was founded by S.
Winwaloe, in French Guenolé, at the beginning of the 6th century. The
Saint had settled first in the islet of Tibidy, but finding the place
too strait for him, came to Landevennec, where King Grallo granted him
lands in a warm and sheltered situation, under a hill that cut off
the blasts from the Atlantic. The ruins are in private grounds, but
visitors are admitted. The abbey church is of the 11th cent., and is
without transepts, but has a large chapel of a later date built on at
one side. In a crypt is the reputed tomb of King Grallo. The monastic
buildings were rebuilt in the 17th century. The Grève des Anglais is
so called because it was here that landed an expedition against Brest
which failed, because betrayed to the French Court by Marlborough and
Godolphin. The consequence was that eight hundred British soldiers fell
into a trap and were butchered to the last man.
_Goueznou._ Here is the sole church near Brest that possesses any
archæological value. But it is a really remarkable edifice. It has the
finest apse in the Department, next to Lampaul-Guimiliau, containing
three great gabled late flamboyant windows. The church also possesses
a tower with two galleries crowned by a spire. The porch was begun
in 1643, and belongs to the same family as those of Landerneau and
Trémaouézan. It was finished in 1644, so that there was no long delay
in its completion. The main body of the church was constructed in
1607-15. About ten paces west of the church is the monumental fountain
of the Saint. It consists of a tank in an enclosure surrounded by
stone seats for the accommodation of bathers. On the south side is
a small altar surmounted by a niche, that contains a statue of S.
Gouezenou. P. Ascension Day. _Lambezellec_, with a modern church, has a
much frequented Pardon on the 2nd S. in August. _Plouzané._ Lechs and
menhirs. P. Sunday nearest 10th Aug.
_Guipavas._ The church possesses a porch enriched internally with
statues, 1565.
_Le Conquet._ Modern church, but with glass of the 16th cent. preserved
in it. In it is the tomb of Michel de Nobletz, a famous Jesuit, born
1577, died 1654, whose beatification is proposed. He laboured in Lower
Brittany to turn the people from their pagan superstitions. On the
promontory of Kermorvan two dolmens and a circle of upright stones.
_Plougonvelen._ Fine coast scenery. Here, in an imposing position above
the sea, are the ruins of the Abbey of S. Mathieu. The monastery was
destroyed at the Revolution. The church (1152-1208) was much altered
in the 14th and 15th cents. The abbey was founded in the 6th cent.
by S. Tanguy. Near it is now a lighthouse. Of the parish church the
only portions that are ancient are the porch and the N. transept. P.
Sunday nearest 21st Sept. Off the promontory can be seen the clusters
of islands leading in a N.W. direction to _Ouessant_. Of these the Ile
de Banque, le Guéménés, and the Ile Molène are the principal. Ouessant
and these islands can be reached from Conquet, a steamer leaving there
thrice a week. The _Ile Molène_ is only three-quarters of a mile long
and about half-a-mile wide, and contains 570 inhabitants. Property in
it is minutely subdivided. It was here that the bodies were washed
ashore after the wreck of the _Drummond Castle_ on June 16, 1896. The
_Ile d'Ouessant_ is about seven miles long and three broad; plenty of
fresh water is found on the island, that contains 2280 inhabitants. It
was here that Paulus Aurelianus, a native of Glamorganshire, landed
when migrating from Britain at the head of a considerable party. He,
however, did not remain above two or three years in the island, and
then crossed over to the mainland. The church Lampaul (Lann-Paul) on
Ouessant was founded by him. The cliffs are abrupt, and the rocks
pierced with caves and natural arches. The island produces potatoes,
and gives good feed to sheep. It is in process of being extensively
fortified for the protection of Brest.
BROONS (C.N.) chl. arr. Dinan. Bertrand du Guesclin was born here in
1320. The castle has completely disappeared, but a column has been
erected on the site in commemoration of the fact.
_Sevignac._ The Château of Brondineuf of the 12th cent. is well
preserved.
CANCALE (I. V.) chl. arr. S. Malo. A little port, and a favourite
watering place. It is noted for its oysters. During one part of
the year nearly all the male population is absent on the banks of
Newfoundland engaged in the cod-fisheries. The rochers de Cancale are
a mass of granite rising precipitously above the sea not far from the
mainland. Much granite is quarried at Cancale. The church of S. Méen is
modern.
* CARHAIX (F.) chl. arr. Châteaulin. An old Roman town, Vorganium,
lies high and in dreary country. Scanty remains of a Roman aqueduct are
pointed out. The church (S. Tremor) is modern and good, with a fine
East window; the tower is of 1529-35, with a West doorway, the carving
of foliage on which is deserving of notice. More interesting is the
church of Plouguer, originally very early in the 11th cent., containing
some arches and piers and clerestory windows. It was enlarged in the
16th cent. (1574), and was ruthlessly mutilated in the 18th when the
flamboyant tracery was hacked out of the windows, and the screen was
demolished. The tower is remarkably fine, with bold splayed belfry
windows. It was intended to support a spire which was never added.
There is a handsome old house in the town of carved stone and timber.
P. at S. Roque last S. but one in August.
_Carnoet_ on very high ground. Here is the _peniti_ or place of retreat
of Gildas with a chapel, by the river, and high up in a clump of trees
under a camp that dates from the invasion of Brittany by the Northmen,
is a curious chapel of S. Gildas of late flamboyant melting into
renaissance. It has a W. spirelet, gallery and two bells, the spirelet
sustained on an arch. Within, sunk in the pavement, is an 11th cent.
sarcophagus, reputed to be the bed of S. Gildas, who died in 570. In
the N. aisle is a range of six stages of fowl hutches. On the Pardon,
29th Jan., the peasants make offerings of fowls and horsehair; the
former are put into these hutches where they cluck and cackle through
mass, and then are sold by auction for the benefit of the chapel and
its maintenance. The camp above is an admirable typical example of the
Norseman fortress, consisting of a tump, hollowed out in the middle,
that sustained a wooden superstructure; and a base-court.