_To the Editor of the "Home News".--_
It may be of some interest to your readers to know that we have at
present in our midst some distinguished people. Not indeed because they
happen to be people of high rank in their own country, but because they
represent names standing preeminent in the fields of science on the one
side of their house, and on the other a name cherished in every
household as the very embodiment of Christian chivalry, that of a
veritable soldier of the cross.
The Dowager Lady Rayleigh (mother of Lord Rayleigh, the President of the
British Association), is at present the guest of Mr. and Mrs. James
Neilson, at their residence, Woodlawn. She is accompanied by her two
sons, the Honorables Richard and Hedley Stratt. The former is married to
a daughter of Lord Bragbrook, a member of the Cornwallis family. The
Dowager Baroness is a sister of Hedley Vicars, the soldier-missionary of
the Crimea, a name as well known and honoured in the households of
America as those of Great Britain.
The party came out to attend the Scientific Convention of Canada, and
have since travelled largely through the great West. They express
themselves enthusiastically as to our progress, material as well as
intellectual.
We take the occasion to congratulate our English cousins upon the
phenomenally fine season which they have selected, and trust that they
may remain long enough to enjoy the loveliness of our American autumn
and Indian summer.--_The Brunswick Daily Home News, Thursday, October
16th, 1884._
LETTER No. 10.
_October 25th, Newport, at "Madame Robertson's."_
Hedley and I and Gibson came here on Thursday, just to see the place, of
which I had heard so much, and to acknowledge the offered civilities of
some of the people there. We left Dick at Boston not very well, and
indeed, _I_ have been quite a wretch lately. Wednesday morning,
E--- brought Professor Pickering, and he asked us to join John and E---
at his Observatory, and at a party given afterwards by Mrs. Pickering,
so at 3.30 we set off all in a tram, and Professor Pickering met us
about a mile from the house, and a carriage took us to the Observatory,
where we saw curious things, and above all, the crescent moon, through a
powerful telescope, which, oddly enough, I had never seen before. Mrs.
Pickering had a large gathering, and I was introduced to quantities of
people, some very nice looking and English in tone and manner. In this
part of America one would scarcely know that you were not living among
the present generation of English transported across the Atlantic quite
recently; the manners of the _coloured_ servants are _very_
objectionable, and the porters of the cars quite odious; they march up
and down, even in the more select Pulman cars, slam the doors, awakening
one out of a much needed doze, and throw themselves down on the chairs
and pick their teeth! "Dressed in a little brief authority, they strut
before High Heaven," and make one wish they had never been
_evolved_ but remained altogether _apes_. The _waiters_
at hotels are often pleasant enough, but the dislike of the white
Americans to domestic service has given a monopoly of this employment to
the coloured people, (shared in many parts by the Irish), and they give
themselves airs accordingly. Dr. Wendel Holmes, of literary celebrity,
was at the Pickerings, and I had a short talk with him, but as every
minute some new introduction came off, I could never have a pleasant
chat with any one. Mrs. Horsford, who was giving a large evening party,
asked us to go there, and the Pickerings wanted me to stay with them
till the time arrived, but I was not equal to this exertion, and we
three returned in trams, which ought to be called _crams_, for they
are invariably in that condition. I was also asked to join John and E---
with a party going to a place called Beverly, but I decided to come
here, as people were expecting us, and we arrived about ten minutes to
three, and I found cards and notes, asking me to lunch and dine, and
drive, and my landlady said the bell had been ringing all the morning,
and the whole place was in excitement about our coming and its frequent
delays! I got a carriage (it was too late to lunch out or drive), and
left some cards and notes of explanation, and as we were leaving one at
Mrs. Belmont's, she drove up in a well appointed drag, so we got out,
and I found her a fair and light little person, very nice, and
wonderfully young looking. She then drove us in her beautiful park
phaton to Mrs. Bruen's, where there was an afternoon party for my
benefit--such a charming old lady! I told her I had a mother of
eighty-one, and she said "Oh I am more than _that_, but no one
knows my age, and I don't think about it, but am ready when the call
comes." I have heard since, she is past ninety! She is small and thin,
full of life and interest in everything, and her brains as active as
ever,--seems to have known every one of interest. I went there again to
tea-dinner last evening, and we talked about everything and everybody
under Heaven nearly! Her clever daughter and very pretty grand-daughter,
Miss Perkins, have read widely, and our subjects of discussion were
endless. Of course at the afternoon party there were numbers of people,
and they told me they were quite delighted at my arrival, for the place
was very dull now, and it was quite an excitement! Last evening a
Professor Shields was at Mrs. Bruen's, and gave me his book on "Science
and Faith." I have had three invitations to dine _to-day_, which,
of course I had to decline. To go on with yesterday's journal, we
lunched with a Mrs. Bell, and met there Miss Perkins and another nice
young lady, and a queer specimen, a Mr. W---, who travels about the
Continent with eight children, and aggravated me by saying he was more
at home in France than in England. We had several made up dishes,
chiefly fish, but little I could eat! Three children came down
afterwards and were made very much of, as usual; then Mrs. Belmont
called for us in her barouche, and took us a delightful drive by the
sea, but it was very cold, and as I had not brought my only warm wrap to
Newport, I borrowed a seal skin jacket from Mrs. Bell; I find I have
only brought _one_ gown that I could have well done without, but I
should be glad of two or three more things.
This place is something like _Ryde_, with numbers of villas, which
in summer weather have beautiful lawns and gardens, and are filled with
all the smart people from New York and Boston, &c.; in the season, they
say it is wonderfully pretty and gay, and the few people remaining are
so sorry I did not see Newport in all its glory, but I can guess what it
would be, and I should dislike the kind of life they lead and the
intense frivolity and absence of any kind of occupation, excepting
dressing and flirtation! I think the _cream_ had been left behind.
This morning Professor Shields took us a drive to the two
_Beaches_, two little bays with bathing sands, and then we drove to
Miss Mason, who lives in a very pretty villa with her sister, and is
very rich, and we all walked together to the _Cliff_, where there
is a fashionable promenade, with rocks and sea on one side and green
turf and the villas with their gardens all open on the other. If any one
has a pretty house or place here it is all exposed to the public gaze,
and even _use_, a great deal! We then drove to Mrs. Bruen's, where
Hedley and I lunched. I am surprised to find how _fresh_ the memory
of my brother Hedley still remains in the minds of people, who I thought
would have been too young to have heard of him at the time of his death,
or too old to remember now what they had heard and read. Miss Mason and
her friend spoke about him with such real feeling, and said they had
been _brought up_ on his "memoirs." Mrs. Bruen and her family, and
Professor Shields and many others speak to me as if I was quite a
_friend_, because of my relationship to Hedley! Isn't this curious
after thirty years? They all asked about _Lucy_, and were so
romantic as to be rather distressed that she had ever married; but I
told them what a good man her husband was, and that she was so active
and useful, and that it would have been a great pity if she had been
_lost_ as a wife and mother, &c. Mrs. Bruen, among other things,
spoke of spiritualism, and said she knew from personal experience there
was much truth in it. A relation and intimate friend was a powerful
medium, and many extraordinary things, such as moving of furniture,
(heavy chairs and tables, &c.) and raps, &c., took place under
circumstances which made imposition impossible, there being frequently
no one present but Mrs. Bruen and her two daughters and this lady
medium. A table at the _end_ of the room would suddenly tilt up and
rap. A large dining room table would tilt up, while all the things
arranged for dinner on it would remain immovable--the lady not touching
it. They all seemed to think that spiritualism had a bad influence, and
Mrs. Bruen thinks _bad_ spirits are at work. She is a wonderful old
lady, past ninety, but full of energy and interest, moving large trees
and making alterations constantly in her house and garden. She kissed me
at parting, and I said "I shall tell my mother what a charming old lady
you are," and she said, "give her my kind regards, and tell her how glad
I was to see you." Well, at last with many hand-shakes and all talking
at once, we parted, and I met Gibson at the station, and we returned to
Boston yesterday, October 25th. I am now writing to you on Sunday from
the Hotel Brunswick. Last evening Dick was out when we arrived, with
Evelyn at a concert, for which I had tickets, but I was too tired to go;
this morning we went to hear Dr. P. Brooks, the great preacher who
everyone was raving about last spring in London, (or was it _last_
year?) his church is like a great _temple_, or public hall, and
cost [pound symbol]180,000. Mr. Winthrop gave us his pew, so we were
well placed, and as he is _very_ rapid and not very loud, the
strain to hear his discourse would have been very great if we had not
been near. "In such an hour as ye think not, the Son of Man cometh."
Christ comes to us in many ways, and through the long ages of the Old
Testament and Christian dispensations he has been continually
_shewing_ Himself,--all great events and promises have partial
fulfilments,--little _milleniums_ have taken pace, and heavenly
Jerusalems have been raised in many a church, in many a gathering of
God's people,--all foreshadowing the _Great Event_ which, will
bring God to man. Then he went on about a _King Idea_, the ruling
object in every profession, in every life; how the _best_ of
_that_ idea,--justice in a lawyer, holiness in a clergyman, and so
on,--was brought home and revealed at times with great power. The
reformations and revivals in the world are the _coming_ in this
sense. He spoke of _unconscious_ love and devotion: that many a
person thinks because they cannot always _feel_ Christ present and
cannot consciously recognize that they act for _Him_ in their daily
life, that they do not love or serve Him; they have given
_themselves_ to Him, but it seems as if He was forgotten while
their daily work and employments _press Him out_. All the time, as
with earthly love and care, the _heart_ is full of Him, and every
now and then strong religious exercises or unusual events excite the
mind; He _comes_ to it in full power, and then they recognize their
Lord. Some of the sermon struck me as too _abstract_, but it was
very suggestive; the music, too, was beautiful. He is a large stout man
with fine well-cut features and beautiful expression. Coming out we met
John and E--- and the Pickerings, who had been elsewhere. I think they
are both tired of America, at least E--- is, and John wants to get to
his work! I am not tired of Americans, but I could not _live_ in
this country; the system political is to me odious, much of the social
system ditto; and the society is so disunited, so patchy, so apparently
without bonds of union or common interests, the life they lead so dull
and without the charms of society at home, and yet there are many as
nice and clever and good as we can find anywhere. I dare say the
missionary and charitable organizations, and educational institutions,
&c., give some interest and occupation to the energetic and pious ones,
but there cannot be much of what _we_ call _parish_ work, or
care of the poor, though there are plenty of poor in the large cities,
and much distress as in older countries. Mrs. Bruen gave me Lowell's
discourse on "The Democracy," which he delivered lately in Birmingham,
and asked me for my candid opinion, without regard to _her_
politics. So I said, "candid I shall be, and first of all being devoted
to my country's old constitution, the democracy has to me a very
unpleasant sound; by that I mean the Government of the many and from
_below_, and _that_ form of Government to me is highly
objectionable. I think with Carlyle, that God meant the rulers of the
world to be those men best fitted by their education and occupations and
experiences to cope with the immense difficulties which encompass good
government. So you see, I can't agree with much Lowell says, but some
things are very good and I have ventured to mark them," upon which she
handed the paper to Professor Shields, and told him to read it, and tell
her what I had marked at a future time, as she wanted to go on talking!
I found Professor Shields quite agreed with me when discussing the
matter next day, but he said, "_we_ can't help ourselves now, take
care _you_ don't get into the same difficulties." Mrs. Bruen made
me give a resume of all the reasons why the Lords opposed the passing of
the Franchise Bill until the Redistribution Bill appeared. I must stop.
We have been to hear Dr. Brooks again, this time _un_-written and
not so interesting.
_Monday, 27th_.--After writing the foregoing yesterday, we went to
dine, and then John called and spent nearly two hours chatting.
_They_ had been to lunch at the Lowell's (relations of the Minister
in England), and leave to-day at one o'clock for New York, and on the
first start in the _Germanica_ for England. I think we are all glad
we are _not_ going to Japan, &c., as I have just written to Mrs.
Neilson, "the old country suits my aged inside the best." I told her I
thought the people about New Brunswick and Boston were especially
delightful. "After this," I added, "you will, perhaps, think me
impertinent if I say they seem to me so English! but after all, you came
from us, and it only shows you have kept the stock pure, while we have
in many cases adopted a spurious Americanism in our ways and speech."
Since I wrote this, Mrs. Perkins, a married daughter of dear Mrs. Bruen,
and a masterful kind of person, has called on me, and upon my making
some such remark as the foregoing, she exclaimed, "I don't like
_that_ at all! Before the war we used to like being taken for
English, but now we _don't_,--How would _you_ like to be taken
for an American?" "Well," I replied, "we don't speak of the
_mother_ being like the _child_; whether you like it or not
you _are_ English by descent, and are our cousins at _least_."
Dick asked her afterwards, "What do you wish to be thought?" "An
American, of course." "Please tell me then how you describe an
_American_?" We could not get her to do so; in fact, nothing
pleases the _set-up_ creatures, for if we judge of them by the
Western or Southern, or even Central Americans, they exclaim at our
injustice, and if we judge by these New England States, they are
indignant at being thought English! This, I believe, is only a
_pretence_, however, and that in their _hearts_ they are fond
of England, and justly proud of the relationship and likeness. Certainly
the New Englanders are conceited and _bumptious_, and in this also
they keep up their British characteristics. They want to lose their
State distinctions (which their patriot Washington was so anxious to
guard), and become _one_ great nation, centralizing everything,
which, indeed, seems the rage everywhere. The Democrats are more
conservative and _really_ liberal, and I trust Cleveland will get
elected as President, for there are many independent Republicans
(_Bolters_, they call them,) who will vote for him, knowing that
Blaine would be a disgrace to their country; he is a plausible rogue,
and respectable people of all opinions almost acknowledge it. Mr. and
Mrs. Winthrop called (I have a nice sitting-room now), and we are to
drive there and lunch with them to-morrow. Mrs. Lowell also called, and
gave us the _Republican_ view of things, being a strong
Anti-Democrat; told us that the Southerners, by arguments of personal
_fear_, made the negroes vote against the Republicans, who they
would otherwise support, according to her story. So much, if true, for
the freedom of American voters! Speaking of sea sickness when crossing
the Atlantic, she said that like (someone else) she thought she should
die the first day, and was afraid she should_n't_ the second day.
Mr. Baillie Hamilton spoke to us at luncheon to-day; he has invented a
new kind of organ, and is perfecting it here, and hopes to make it a
good commercial business in New York, and then go home and marry Lady
Evelyn Campbell. We liked him very much, and wish him all success. Mr.
Perkins called, and we all went to the Archaeological Museum, which is
an entertainment I am unworthy of, as I don't understand Art, china, or
lace, or embroidery, or statuary, and only know what I _like_; but
Mr. Perkins wasted a great deal of valuable information upon me. After
this, we all walked to the common with Mr. Hamilton; he told us that he
had worked for months in a factory at Worcester, near this, in his
_shirt sleeves_, no man knowing him, and he thinks highly of the
American workmen in these parts. They are kind and noble under their too
independent and rough exterior, and that is my own impression; but still
I detest the system which has taught them that respect and politeness
are servile and unmanly, and that domestic service is a disgrace. I had
the pleasure of receiving your letter of 15th October this morning, and
am so glad you can use your hand more. I don't think _any_ of your
letters are missing, but, _without conceit_, mine are of more
value, as those to you are my only journal, and I should forget so many
things if I had not these letters to refer to on returning home. Now I
must finish this. Mr. Hamilton is talking while I am writing, and we
shall see him at New York on the 3rd, Hotel Brunswick. You will probably
only have one more letter from America. I am better, but still rather
queer.
Letter No. 11.
_Wednesday, October 29th, Brunswick Hotel, Boston._
I sent you a letter on Monday, and I will now begin another, which may
be the last from these shores. On Tuesday, Mrs. Pickering, the wife of
the astronomer at Cambridge, called early "to be of use," but I was
engaged to lunch out with the Winthrops, so we arranged to meet to-day.
Dick went to play the organ at Advent Church, and was delighted with it,
full of ingenious mechanism. At half-past twelve Hedley and I met him at
the station, and Mr. Perkins met us, and we found Mrs. Winthrop's
carriage at Brooktines. Mr. Perkins is a very accomplished man, lived a
long time in Germany to study music, and in Italy to study Art
generally. He looks very like Mr. Henry Sidgwick, and you would never
guess he was an American. The drive through Brooklines was very pretty;
we saw three large trees of a pure gold colour on the greenest turf in
one place, which had a lovely effect. The Winthrop's house is not
furnished with aesthetic taste, but there were some good pictures. Mr.
Winthrop has been married three times, and the present wife was married
before, so there is rather a confusion of families. _Her_ daughter
only lives with them, and is affected with a sort of St. Vitus's dance,
which made it rather trying for Hedley to take her in to luncheon; but I
never saw anyone who seemed less self-conscious or more at her ease than
this poor girl, and her mother is devoted to her, and shewed us her
picture in great triumph. We had Mr. Packman, the historian of Canada,
at luncheon, and Mr. Richardson, a celebrated architect, formerly a
slave owner in the Southern States, who liberated his slaves before the
war, but was a "rebel," and lost his all, and had to work for his
living. Mr. Packman said he thought Canada was improving wonderfully,
but (as the English when we were there had told us), the French element
multiplies with extraordinary rapidity, and they are a compact body
under the control of their priests, and so carry all political questions
their own way; consequently, but little progress is made in the province
of Quebec. Mr. Packman is a Republican, but is going to vote for the
Democratic candidate, Mr. Cleveland, because he believes him to be an
honest man, and that Blaine would bring the country into difficulties. I
wish some of _our_ Republicans would come _here_ and learn a
lesson of conscientious independence! There were some ladies besides,
but I did not make out their names. At last luncheon was ready, and such
a nasty luncheon! Great oysters, and raw beef, and dried-up partridges,
and the never failing blocks of ice-cream, which _sounds_ very
nice, but one gets tired of it, especially when it makes one ill!
However, the _mental_ food was very good, and Mr. Winthrop, who
knows everyone, spoke to me of Gladstone. He thinks he "is a man of many
words; he knows something of everything, and a good deal of some
things," but on the whole he evidently does _not_ trust his
statemanship. He knew the late Lord Lytton and his wife, and met her
after their quarrel at Roger's, the poet, and thought her a very fine
clever woman, with charms of manner. Lord Lytton he thought very
unpleasant; very deaf, and sensitive about it, and would not use his
trumpet. Macaulay was very _ponderous_, and had a _Niagara_
flow of language. He always engrossed all conversation, and one got
tired of listening. Mr. Winthrop greatly enjoyed the coming of age of
Lord Cranbourne, at Hatfield, to which he was invited, and he thinks
Lord Salisbury's speaking more interesting than Gladstone's,--that the
House of Lords might make some compromise about the Redistribution Bill,
and that it would be an immense pity for England to lose the three
estates of the realm, and the Established church. "We don't want you to
become a Republic, but keep up the standard of good government for the
rest of the world." Afterwards we went to Mr. Augustus Lowell's, and
there we found all vehement for _Blaine_! I did not agree with
their arguments, but listened to all very meekly and attentively! They
also urged us, as every one else, _not_ to give in to the idea of
universal suffrage, which is the _bane_, they say, of politics in
this country, and causes all their difficulties. After tea we drove home
five miles in Mr. Winthrop's carriage; I like her very much, and she has
more _softness_ of manner, being a Southerner, than the Americans
sometimes have. Wednesday we met Mrs. Pickering at the station, and
after a short railway journey, drove to the beautiful grounds of
_Wellesley College_, founded by a rich American, Mr. Durrant, for
girls over sixteen. Three separate buildings, and a pretty lake, and a
very interesting President, Miss Freeman, about thirty. After seeing the
perfect and numerous arrangements made for the education of the young
women, chemistry-rooms, libraries, statuary, &c., &c., and making
acquaintance with some of the lady professors, we had luncheon with
hundreds of girls; some of these pay less, (the regular payment is
forty-five dollars or pounds, I forget which, a year), and have some
light work to do, _wait_ on us, &c. I can't say the luncheon was
good! the beef hard, and I had only bread and jam! I thought "unless
they have a really good breakfast and dinner, these young women will not
be able to bear the strain on their mental and bodily powers." After
this innocent meal, six young girls, dressed in blue serge and white
costumes, with hats of the shape of undergraduate's, rowed us in two
boats, one painted blue with light oars, the other white, and the girls
rowing it also in white costumes; our blue captain was a very pretty
bright girl, just the type one reads of in novels as the American girl,
(but not a _lady_ in the American view, or our own,) and she
chatted away, and led the others in some pretty songs, while they rested
on their oars, and then we were obliged to hurry away. One of the
professors told me now clever the _captain_ was, and another asked
me to send six copies of Hedley's Memoirs for the Sunday Lending Library
here, with my name, "which they should value so much." We returned to
Cambridge, and kind Mrs. Pickering, who is very good looking and
energetic, took us to Harvard College, and we saw the Memorial Hall, and
interesting Gymnasium, where the young men were practising all kinds of
wonderful exercises. We got home very tired, and at seven o'clock dined
with Mr. and Mrs. Perkins. Mrs. Perkins, like her mother, Mrs. Bruen,
has had great experiences in Spiritualism, and believes it is _not
good_.
_Thursday, 30th_.--At Mrs. Pruyn's, _Albany_.--We left Boston
about eleven o'clock, and found her carriage and cart waiting for us at
station, and received a most kind welcome. She is a rather stout woman,
of about forty, who has been very pretty, and has two daughters of
sixteen and eleven, and a stepson who is very delicate. Mrs. Pruyn is
very rich, (everything having been left to her as usual here), and the
house is filled with beautiful gold and silver-plate, and china and
books, and curiosities of all sorts. She seems very energetic and good
in all relations of life. Some people dined,--her father, Judge Parker,
Mr. and Mrs. Kidd, Mr. Ledgard, of old Dutch extraction, which is very
common here and in the States generally, and lives in the country
_Canzenovia_, on the shores of a lake. His family have been there
for generations.
_Friday, 31st_.--We all went to see the Capitol, an enormous and
handsome building not yet completed, but what I cared for much more, we
saw the President, or rather I should say, the _candidate_,
Governor Cleveland. He talked with us some minutes, and seemed a simple,
honest kind of man, without vulgarity, but not of society manners or
attractiveness. I wished him success, for which he thanked me cordially.
The poor man is hunted to death by men and meetings of all sorts. So we
did not stay long. I caught cold in this hot place, (they do burn such
fearful _furnaces_ in the houses here), and I could not go out
again.
_Saturday_.--Remained in bed till four o'clock to-day, and then
got up to tea, Mrs. Pruyn's sister, Mrs. Corney, such a nice cheerful
woman, with a face something like Lisa's, and Mrs. Evans, with a
handsome niece, came to lunch yesterday, Miss Pruyn drove Hedley in a
nice pony carriage. At dinner we had General and Mrs. Mirvan, another
sister, and Dr. Holms, Librarian in the Capitol. This afternoon two
presents of flowers came for me; they all went to church in the morning,
being All Saints' day. The Evans asked us all to dine, but Mrs. Pruyn
had company at home. Mr. Palmer, son of the man who sculptured "Faith,"
so often photographed, and the clergyman of St. Peter's, Dr.
Battershall, who was very pleasant, and talked nicely of Mr. Rainsford,
son of Mr. Rainsford of Halkin street, who has done wonders in New York,
at St. George's. The American religious people are far less narrow
minded and censorious than _we_ are; one sect or party _can_
see that a great deal of good and successful work is done by another!
Mrs. Pruyn is decidedly ritualistic, but she is quite sorry I shall not
be here next week, to hear Moody and Sankey, who are to hold meetings. A
Miss Lansing dined here, and seems a very touchy American-loving person,
and snubbed the boys if they hinted anything here was not perfection.
_Sunday, 2nd_.--Heard a good sermon from Dr. Battershall, at St.
Peter's, on "Seeing _Him_ who is invisible,"--the Apostle's
definition of _faith_. We remained to Holy Communion. He is
evidently fond of ritual, but there was nothing really objectionable. In
the evening we all went to Judge Parker's, and Mrs. Parker, who had not
left her room for some weeks, came down to see me, and is a very nice
old lady; all the daughters and their husbands, and the widower son,
came to heavy tea, a regular custom in the family--then Dick played, and
we sung hymns.
_Monday, 3rd_.--Had a delightful drive with Mrs. Pruyn in the
morning, violet mountains (the Caltgills) in the distance, with
brilliant foreground of autumn tinted trees, and golden fields, and a
bright sun shining on all, made a pretty picture; the streets and roads
here are very bad, as generally in America; really one drives over
_boulders_ of stone in some of the streets here, and they say, "it
can't be helped, the municipal corporation have it in their own hands."
Our kind hostess has given me a pretty dusting brush and a book, &c.,
and is going to send me a box of biscuits I liked, for the voyage home.
Mrs. Pickering has sent me a pretty little case, with my initials on it.
We left Albany at twenty minutes to three, and much enjoyed the scenery
on the banks of the Hudson _en route_ to New York, but it got dark
before we came to the prettiest part, and we did not get settled in this
Hotel Brunswick till past eight o'clock.
_Tuesday, 4th_.--After a better night I awoke, feeling less
uncomfortable, but I have not been at all well lately, and I suppose
that what I want is _rest_ and a different diet. I found dear
Mary's letter, and one from Clara. I shall not hear any more, I suppose,
now, till I meet Edward, &c., at Ampton Hall, on the 20th inst. We all
agree our hearts are "homeward bound" now, and the dear old Grandie
will, please God, welcome us back in health and peace. I have had lots
of visitors this morning and afternoon. To-night we dine with my
Philadelphia friend, Mrs. B. Moore.
_Later_.--We met Monseigneur Capel at dinner, and Major Recard
Seaver, and a Miss Hooker. Crowds all about the hotel (Fifth Avenue);
electoral returns put up in front of an electric light near it, and
cheers as they appeared to favour one side or another from the dense
crowd. Monseigneur Capel is handsome and agreeable, but he did not
impress me _at all_ as a sincere or saintly person. We had to make
our way home through a great crush, but there was nothing unpleasant.
The Republicans have had it all their own way for more than twenty
years, and have, of _course_, become tyrannical and corrupt, so no
wonder the best of them support Cleveland, who is believed to be honest,
and has proved himself capable and sensible as Governor of New York. The
cheering and groaning went on all night, which was not conducive to
sound slumber. They cheer and groan in _unison_, which has a
curious effect.
Letter No. 12.
_November 7th, Brunswick Hotel, New York._
I am not sure whether I wrote up my journal to _this_ date,
Wednesday, 5th. On that morning Hedley and I went by _elevated_
railway to get money from the bank, and pay for our passages in Cunard
boat, the _Oregon_, on the 12th. After luncheon, Mrs. Belmont
called and took Dick and me a drive in the park, and afterwards to
Tiffany's, the great place for jewellery and such things. Dick went then
to hear Mr. Baillie Hamilton's organ, and Hedley walked to the Millers,
where Mrs. Belmont took us for an afternoon party they had got up for my
benefit. They live in rather a nice flat, which was crowded with people,
and where I got the most delicious chocolate and cream and biscuits! I
was introduced to _everyone_, I think, and talked politics as much
as I could with all the men in turn; even the Republicans strongly
advise our retaining the House of Lords, and _not_ giving universal
suffrage. There were some nice-looking well-dressed people at this
party, and all so kind and anxious we should be pleased. I like the
Americans! they are so good _au fond_, and the women are superior
to the men of the younger generation. After dinner at the hotel, Hedley
spied out Mr. Angus, our host at Montreal, and we had a long chat. The
election is not yet decided, and the Democrats say that the others are
likely to play tricks with the ballot boxes, and they have certainly
delayed electoral returns; having command of ballot boxes, railways, and
telegraphs, they can easily do this, and if people arrive at thinking,
as some do at _home_, that a man's conscience ought only to
consider the importance of keeping _his party_ in power, and ignore
every other consideration, why, what is to stop these kind of things? If
a man's conscience is not to _weigh down_ the advantages of gain to
his _party_ in some matters, why in others?
_Thursday, 6th_.--We started as arranged at a quarter to nine to
the Normal School for girls, richly endowed by some citizen, and
entirely free. It was a good walk and we were not lucky in our trams,
and so we arrived rather late at the large hall. Our friend General
Wilson introduced me to the President, who placed me in his chair, and
then I saw before me fifteen hundred young women. They got up singly and
recited interesting quotations and sung, and then marched out to music
in military order. We went to another hall, and saw them exercised, and
they were healthy and graceful performances. These girls come at nine
and stay till two, and are thoroughly well taught. Little ones, too, are
instructed by the elder girls. It is a capital education for the future
mothers and teachers. I suppose most of our girls go to service of that
class! We then went to General Wilson's, and breakfasted on soup, fish,
venison steak, &c. A very agreeable lady, a Southerner, was there, and
as General Wilson is a Republican, we argued, and he found all the party
against his views, but he is used to being crushed, for his wife is a
Democrat. He wanted us to go to see a famous library, but I was too
tired, and when he and the boys returned we went home, and Mr. and Mrs.
Neilson were waiting for us at the hotel. We then started for a very
high building near the river, when we mounted in an elevator, and had a
beautiful view of New York, and could see the splendid river and
water-way in which it rejoices, but everything is spoilt in America for
the sake of the _railways_, and steamers, and wharves, and you see
no pretty houses near the river banks in the cities. Brooklyn Bridge is
fine, and I half hoped to cross it and find out Dr. Penticost, but was
_finished up_, and went home to rest. Then visitors came: Mrs.
Gardener, daughter of Bishop Doane, of Albany, very nice; then we dined
at the Belmont's. The house is gorgeous in embroidery, and pictures, and
statues, and all in very good taste, and more _comfortable_ than
most of their fine houses. The dinner, too, was _very_ good, and I
was the better for the excellent champagne. Mrs. Belmont is a wonderful
little woman, with thick brown hair, and looking about forty, and I have
seen people look as old at thirty. He is short and lame, and rather
plain, but is clever and agreeable, and speaks with a strong foreign
accent. Their son, Mr. Percy Belmont, has been elected three times for
Congress. There was a southern lady there and her husband, Madame
Hoffman, I think, and a Miss Wright. Madame Hoffman is very handsome and
lively. The Belmonts apologized for a small party, because they are in
mourning. They keep up mourning dress and customs tremendously long
here. At first I thought there were a surprising number of widows going
about, but I discovered they were mourning for their aunts or
grandmothers.
The election was not settled till late last night, and they say the
Republicans are still disputing the returns--and they feared riots in
New York. I must say they seem wonderfully quiet, and I slept till
half-past eight this morning, longer than for weeks past. To-day's
papers announce Lord Londonderry's death and Mr. Fawcett's. How many
people one is interested in have died since we left England in August!
_Friday, 9th_.--Mr. Baillie Hamilton took Dick and me to, hear his
organ "_vocalian_," at a church, it was a _walk_ for me, and
the wind was very cold and strong, church very hot, and so I caught
cold. I should die of some lung complaint if I remained here long! We
started for Long Island about three, crossing in a ferry and then by
rail, and found on reaching the station that Mr. Jones and Miss Miller
were unhappy about us, as they could not find us in the train. Carriages
were waiting and we reached Unqua in twenty minutes. A good sized house
(and my bedroom quite splendid) on a bit of grass land, with stumpy
trees scattered anyhow, opposite and close to South Oyster Bay,--which
is divided from the Atlantic by a narrow strip of sand, back premises in
full view, with chickens and turkeys everywhere in full possession!
_All_ the establishment awaited out arrival, I think, in the hall,
including two smart waiters come for the auspicious occasion. Mrs. and
Miss Jones (her sister), and a Miss Jones (niece) with her father who is
a widower and lives there, and Col. Jones a grass widower whose wife
lives in Paris. At dinner I appeared as smart as I could, and I think
made a sensation, judging by the approving looks and smiles cast upon
me! Nearly all the neighbours are Jones's or Loyd Jones's, and some of
them dined.
_Saturday, 8th_.--I rested in my room till twelve, and then in a
smart tea gown was _seated_ next Mrs. Jones on a sofa, and was
introduced to each one as they shook hands with her and with me; they
were nearly all strangers to me, but some sat for a few minutes on my
other side and talked, and some asked us to go and see them, but I was
obliged to decline all hospitalities, as we have no time for more. They
were not particularly well dressed _generally_, nor was I struck by
the beauty of the young women. Mrs. Belmont, who is a leader of fashion
in New York, said, "I hope you won't think this is the _best_ of
New York society;" however, I know I have at different times seen the
_best_, and there were many there who represented _la creme de la
creme_. Sir Richard Temple was one of the very few English present,
all were very kind and cordial, and I really felt quite an important
_Personage!_ almost royalty! The luncheon was a terrific scramble,
for waiting is so bad in America, and I got nothing to eat till very
late, and my head ached horribly--after shaking hands with four hundred
people (three hundred came by special train from New York), it was not
much wonder, and I retired to lie down at half-past four, when they all
had gone.
_Sunday 9th_.--I was in bed quite ill till past four, and then I
came down and was petted and nursed. Dick went back yesterday afternoon,
and the last we saw of him was hanging on to the back of one of the
numerous carriages, which he caught just in time to reach the train. I
could not go out to tea as arranged with some relations, but the others
did excepting Mrs. and Miss Jones. At half-past seven we had supper
altogether and champagne, &c. Nothing could be kinder than everyone.
_Monday, 10th_.--At two, after luncheon, they sent us to the
station (Mr. Jones, such a good nice man, had gone early to New York),
and Miss Miller accompanied us. On arriving at the hotel there was Mrs.
Bidgelow, a very cordial lady who had invited us to West Point; she
seized me and exclaimed, "I am so glad just to have caught you and seen
you once more," and she called me "dear," sometimes, and begged she
might kiss me at parting, and as she was nice looking I didn't mind!
That night being engaged to go with Mrs. Belmont to the opera, I felt,
in spite of the risk, I must do it. So I went well wrapped up and sat
behind in the beautiful large box, so that I could cough without at any
rate being _seen_, and I hope did not much interfere with the
enjoyment of _Patti_ by others, but for myself it was no enjoyment
at all. There were smart and well-dressed people in the opera house, but
_not up_ to _our_ upper "ten thousand" and they talked while
Patti was singing in our box which was close to the stage.
_Tuesday_.--Mr. Cleland Burns of the Cunard Company, an old
acquaintance, came to see me with many kind offers to arrange everything
for my comfort, as he and his daughters were going in the _Oregon_,
and also Mr. W. Cunard, and his son; a Mr. Morgan, a banker and friend
of Mrs. Pruyn's, has put off coming unfortunately, for from all accounts
he is much to be liked; he called twice, and the second time I was able
to see him. I remained quiet, but saw many visitors, and many I was
obliged to decline seeing; the _sons_ both went out to dine.
_Wednesday, 12th_.--At half-past ten we started with baggage for
ship, got all on board comfortably, found one lady in my cabin, and I
spoke to Mr. Burns, who said he would arrange for me after we had
started; lots of people came to see their friends off. Mr. Neilson,
brought me some beautiful butter for the voyage! Mrs. Pruyn telegraphed
and sent me the biscuits; Mr. Hall, a brother of Mrs. Edlmann, and Mr.
Eyre, friends of Dick's came, and Mr. Carpenter an acquaintance from New
Brunswick, and Mr. Whitehouse, a literary acquaintance. At six o'clock
we started in the fine ship _Oregon_, in which I am now writing. It
was a lovely _Indian_ summer day, _clear_ as we rarely see it
in our Islands, sun shining, and so we saw the splendid Bay of New York
to great advantage, it seemed wonderful to us after our experience going
to Quebec, to see how calm and blue the great Atlantic _could_ be.
Mr. Burns put me into a cabin to myself near _them_, but
unfortunately it was also very near the engines, and after two nights, I
sneaked back to my own berth, and put up with a very quiet little lady
in preference! Mr. Burns placed us at their table, and I have the
benefit of his cheerful company and his lively daughters, as well as the
champagne and good things he shares with us, and we are a very merry
party, and enjoyed ourselves much, until Friday, when the weather
changed. A Mr. Clinton, a fine looking man of six feet six inches, son
of Lord Charles Clinton, a Mr. Dickson, a very gentlemanlike nice
ex-guardsman, a Mr. and Mrs. Drake, who are very musical, and he plays
the flute better than anyone I ever heard, all sat near us, but for two
or three days we had the _old story_, and the waves beat and rolled
us about, and the passengers disappeared like mice to their holes, and
we could not go on deck.
LIST OF SALOON PASSENGERS PER R. M. S. "OREGON," (CAPTAIN McMICKAN,)
NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, Nov. 12TH, 1884
Miss Appleford
Mr. Julian B. Arnold
Mr. J. Fred Ackerman
Mr. Jose d'Aranjo
Mr. and Mrs. Edward Austin
Mr. Alex Aitchinson
Mr. C. D. Armstrong
Rev J. A. Anderson
Capt and Mrs. Bogle, six Children and two Servants
Miss Bogle
Master Bogle
Miss Bodwell
Mr. C. Bayley
Mr. G. Bayley
Mr. Thos. A. Bell
Mr. J. N. Beach
Mr. Arthur A. Brigham
Hon. F. A. K. Bennett
Mr. S. A. Budgett
Mr. J. Cleland Burns
Miss Jean Burns
Miss Grace Burns, and Maid
Rev. Geo. A. Brown
Mr. B. Bonfort
Miss Martha Bonfort
Mr. J. Barnes
Rev. Edwin M. Bliss
Mr. F.D. Blakeslee
Mr. J. Lomas Bullock
Mr. W. Butterworth
Mrs. Mary B. Byrne
Mr. John Blair
Rev. John Boylan
Mr. J. Collins
Mr. Stanley Conner
Mr. Aug. T. Chur
Miss Cranston
Mr. and Mrs. Wm. M. Cranston
Mr. J. P. Croal
Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Russell Crampton
Miss Florence A. Cordis
Miss Nellie R. Cordis
Mr. L. Crules
Mr. F. M. Crick
Mr. and Mrs. Woodie Cook, and Son
Mr. John Cholditch
Mr. Pelham Clinton
Mr. John L. Chapman
Mr. Alex. Campbell
Mr. Wm. Cunard
Mr. Ernst H. Cunard
Mr. Geo. Dixon
Mr. John Dixon
Mr. Frank S. Dougherty
Mr. Chas. Algernon Dougherty
Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Drake
Rev. and Mrs. W. E. Daniel
Miss Annie Davis
Mr. Walter Dickinson
Mr. Ed. M. Denny
Mr. Ed. Henry Denny
Mr. Chas. Edward Denny
Mr. J. H. Douglas-William
Mr. F. J. Douglas-William
Miss R. Emmett
Miss Emmett
Miss Lydia F. Emmett
Mr. and Mrs. Robert Easson, and two Children
Mr. A. S. Emmet
Mr. Frank Evans
Miss Alice Foster
Miss Emma Foster
Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Fiddian
Rev. M. Flynn
Mr. Chandos-Pole-Gell
Mr. C. Gostenhofer
Mr. G. Greiner
Mr. R. Gebhardt
Rev. Miles Grant
Mr. and Mrs. C. W. Gordon, and two Children
Mr. Francis Henry
Mrs. H. J. Hastings
Miss Hastings, and two Maids
Mr. Nigel F. Hatton
Mr. Michael Hughes
Rev. and Mrs. E. P. Hammond
Mr. F. Henriques
Mr. Clarence M. Hyde
Mr. Theodore Haviland
Mr. C. T. Hunter
Mr. F. W. Hutchins
Mr. Henry R. Hoyt
Mr. E. L. Hamilton
Mr. John Hall
Mr. W. Howden
Mr. W. E. Jarratt
Mr. Chas. Johnston
Mr. A. de Journel
Mr. T. O. Jones
Mme. Marie Joseph
Mme. Honorat
Mme. Helena
Miss Kenyon
Mr. Adolph Keitel
Mr. Richard Kibble
Mrs. Kidd
Miss Kidd
Miss B. Kidd
Master Kidd
Mr. Frank Kemp
Mr. and Mrs. A. Ladenborg
Dr. and Mrs. Landis
Mr. W. Liddell
Mr. A. Lindsey
Mr. Edmund Lees
Mr. John Lawrance
Mr. P. Lawrence
Mr. John Leach
Mr. E. Middleton
Dr. Wm. B. Meany
Mr. G. B. Mackintire
Mr. Archd. A. McDonald
Mr. Ch. Mordaunt
Mr. M. L. Marcus
Mr. and Mrs. W. T. Makellar
Mr. Herbert Mead
Mrs. L. Middleton
Mr. W. W. Marks
Mr. M. MacLehose
Mr. Paul Meischer
Mr. Alex. McEwen
Mias Mills
Mr. Robt. J. McClure
Sister Eliza Monica
Mr. Francis More
Mr. A. Bishop Mason
Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Nichols, and Child
Mr. and Mrs. C. F. Noyes
Mr. Jeffreys Owen
Mr. and Mrs. Henry M. Peyser
Hon. F. Petre
Mr. Richd. C. Perkins
Miss Puleston
Mrs. C. B. Paulmier
Miss Nellie Paulmier
Miss Richardson and Maid
Mr. and Mrs. E. G. Rideoot and Maid
Mr. and Mrs. J. M. Richardson, and Maid
Lady Rayleigh, and Maid
Mr. J. E. Raymond
Mr. J. F. Raymond
Mr. Jno. F. Roy
Captain Hugh Rose
Mr. and Mrs. H. Skerrett Rogers
Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Riches
Miss Marion Riches
Mr. Champion B. Russell
Mr. W. Scott
Mr. Harmon Spruance
Mr. and Mrs. T. J. Schickle
Mr. Frank W. Stokes
Mr. C. F. Schmidt
Mr. Matthew Snoeck
Mr. Philip M. Smith
Mr. O. Streatfeild
Hon. Richd. Strutt
Hon. Hedley V. Strutt
Mr. G. S. Stephen
Rev. Geo. Mure Smith
Mr. I. L. Solomon
Mr. Frank Sartoris
Mr. E. W. Sawyer
Mrs. Trielhard
Mrs. Martin Thouron, and two Sons
Mr. H Trevenen
Mrs. Edwin F Taylor
Mr. Alfred R Tregellas
Mrs. L J Trowbridge
Mr. John A. Talk
Mr. A. Taylor
Mr. A. M Talbot
Mr. Jean Verga
Sister Mary Virginia
Mr. Chas E Willoughby
Mr. Geo Windeler
Miss Minnie Wilson
Miss Walls
Mr. Wm. Ward
Mr. O. M. Warren
Miss Adelaide Wilson
Mr. Thomas Webb
Mr. G. F. Watson
Mr. Gordon Wendell
Mr. A. H. Willey
Mr. A. Woodthorpe
Mr. A. J. Winn
Mr. and Mrs. T. H. Watress
Mr. W. A. Webber
Mr. W. D. Webb
Mrs. E. Wolfe, and Maid
Dr. Wm. N. Wilson
Mrs. Emily Woods
Mr. H. R. Williams
Mr. J. S. Wilson
This morning, _Tuesday, 18th_, I awoke after a very "dirty" night,
to find the sun shining, and the sea comparatively calm. Last night we
had a concert; on their requesting some American to lead off the "Star
Spangled Banner," a nice looking elderly man, whom we had called G. O.
M., got up and said perhaps you may be surprised to hear that for one
American who knows "Star Spangled Banner," one hundred and fifty know
"God Save the Queen," upon which we cheered him, and stood up and
_all_ lustily sang "God Save the Queen;" after this dissipation we
added that of an oyster supper and _toddy_! thanks to Mr. Burns.
Here is the Programme of our Concert:--
R.M.S. "OREGON," (Capt. McMickan).
"OREGONIAN COMPANY"
A GRAND CONCERT WILL BE GIVEN TO-NIGHT, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17th, 1884, IN
AID OF THE LIVERPOOL SEAMEN'S ORPHANAGE. PATRONESS.--CLARA LADY
RAYLEIGH. MANAGERS.--SIGNOR CUNARDO & SIGNOR BURNSEASI