THE ISLAND OF GOTHLAND AND TOWN OF VISBY
“In the days of old,” says the saga, “a fair and beautiful island, low
and dim, floated on the sea by night, and the people beheld it as they
sailed to and fro; but each morning at sunrise it disappeared beneath
the waves, until the waning twilight had come again, when it would
rise and float over the surface of the Östersjön (Baltic) as before.”
No one dared to land upon it, though the belief was general that it
would become fixed if a fire was lighted there.
Thjelvar, with his men, finally landed in a little bay of the floating
island, and lighted a fire, and the island became stationary. The name
of this daring man, Thjelvar, means “the Industrious.”
Those with him seemed to be possessed with the same spirit, for in a
short time they were building ships and trading with every part of
Europe. They soon became wealthy, not only by fair means but also by
foul, as they did not hesitate to plunder whenever they had an
opportunity. Their forays led to reprisals. Their wealth excited envy.
They did not feel strong enough of themselves, and, as Sweden was the
nearest country, they proposed to put themselves under her protection,
and sent an ambassador to negotiate. When he arrived at Upsala, then
the capital of Sweden, the King and Queen were sitting at meat. He was
not received at once, nor even asked to sit down. After he had been
standing some time at the entrance, the King said: “What news from
Gothland?” “Nothing,” replied the ambassador, “except that a mare on
the island has foaled three colts at a birth.” “Ah,” said the King,
“what does the third colt do when the other two are sucking?” “He does
as I do,” replied the ambassador, “He stands and looks on.” Thereupon
the King laughed loudly, and invited the ambassador to share the meal.
In the end a treaty was arranged, and Gothland became a part of
Sweden.
This was in 890. In 1030 Olaf compelled the inhabitants of the island
to become Christian, and be baptized, but by this time a city had
sprung up where the heathens of old used to offer up sacrifices. This
city was named Visby, “the city of the place of sacrifice.” It is
situated on the west side of the island, and gradually rose in
importance, until it became the chief trading centre of Europe. There
was a great trade with Russia, and by means of the rivers of that
country the treasures of the East were brought to Visby. The fame and
the stories of her wealth and commerce spread far and wide. Soon
merchants came from all parts of Europe to share her wealth. Very many
of them removed their business entirely to Visby.
[Illustration: IN DAYS OF OLD. _Ankarcrona._]
The wealth of the city was fabulous. The common saying was that the
merchants used to weigh their gold with 20 pound weights, and play
with choicest jewels. The women spun with silver distaffs. The pigs
ate out of silver troughs.
Their houses, of which many are remaining to this day, were narrow and
lofty, with their gable-ends to the streets. Their rooms were large
with high ceilings, and most beautifully decorated. In one house can
be seen a room with walls and roof completely covered with scenes from
the Bible. The doors in many cases were made of copper, and the
window-frames gilded.
The merchants lived most luxuriously, and were most exclusive in their
social life. No artisans, except bakers and goldsmiths, were allowed
to live within the city walls.
Their wealth and commerce gave them great authority, so that their
sea-laws were adopted by European countries generally. They form the
basis of the laws of the sea of the present day.
These were rough times, when might was right, and the inhabitants of
Visby had always to be prepared for an attack upon the city, for the
surrounding nations looked upon her wealth with an envious eye. One of
the sorest experiences she had to undergo was at the hand of King
Waldemar of Denmark. He defeated them in battle, tore down a part of
the walls, entered with his army in battle array, and, placing three
very large ale-vats in the square, commanded that these be filled with
gold and silver within three hours. This was done with remarkable
rapidity, and King Waldemar sailed with his gold and silver, as well
as much spoil from the churches. The booty, however, never reached
Denmark, as the vessels carrying it foundered in a storm. From this
hour Visby began to decline in importance, and is now known chiefly as
a summer resort and haunt of tourists who wish to learn something of
this medieval town.
Notwithstanding all their love of wealth, the inhabitants of Visby did
not seem to be stingy in giving to the Church, as no less than sixteen
churches were built. All still exist, but are in ruins except one, the
Cathedral or St. Mary’s Church which is quite complete. They are all
large buildings. In the great square can be seen the Church of St.
Catherine, which belonged to the abbey of a Franciscan Order. In the
nave are twelve pillars, not in a straight line. They make a lasting
impression on the visitor, they are so delicate in their tracery and
overgrown with the ivy and the vine. The roof of the chancel has
fallen, and now only the arches which unite the pillars to each other
and to the outer walls remain.
Not very far from here are seen two churches. They are called
_syskonkyrkorna_, or sister-churches, built side by side. They each
possess immense towers, which are supposed to have been fitted up at
one time for defence. If the story is true, the sisters did not love
one another; indeed, it is said that they hated one another so much
that they could not worship God in the same church, and each had to
have a separate place of worship built for herself.
The largest of all the churches is St. Nicholas. On the western gable
of it can be seen two twelve-leaved rosette-like bricks. They look
like windows. In the centre of each, tradition says, were set most
precious carbuncle stones, that shone in the dark like fire. These
served as guides to the sailors on the Baltic. Soldiers guarded them
night and day, and no one was allowed to approach them after sunset on
pain of death. King Waldemar, when he sacked Visby, removed the sacred
carbuncles. Over the spot where the ship that conveyed them went
down, a remarkable gleam is said to be seen. The Gothland fishermen
say that it is the radiance of the carbuncles now lying in the depths
of the sea.
Another remarkable feature of Visby is the city wall. It completely
encircles the city, and is the only example in Scandinavia that has
lasted to our time. It dates from early in the thirteenth century. It
was gradually made stronger by adding to its height and its thickness,
and also by building thirty-six towers, two to guard each gate. Many
of these have a name. The powder-tower was named Silfverhättan
(Silver-cap). Its shining roof is now replaced by dull tiles. One is
used as a prison, and is named “Cæsar.” Another is called Jungfru
Tornet (the Maiden’s Tower). It is said that a young girl betrayed
this city to King Waldemar. As a punishment she was built into the
wall of the tower. Near a gate on the south side of the city can be
seen a cross put up to the memory of the 1,800 men of Visby who were
killed when that King took the city. On it is an inscription in Latin,
still legible--“In the year 1361, the Tuesday after St. James’s day,
the Gothlanders fell before the gates of Visby by the hands of the
Danes. They lie buried here. Pray for them.”