The physical aspects of these mountains are marvelously beautiful.

What a compact wall the tree-tops make! They seem impervious even

to the sharpest lightning. Their forms give you every diversity

of surface. Their outlines are never harsh or rugged, but always

undulating and graceful. As the train sweeps along, now you get only

the bold, precipitous wall of one mountain side. In a minute you get

a view of another face. Now a chain of mountains group themselves

together in a superb tableau. Now they form the gigantic setting of

a peaceful green valley with a river laughing in its face, with here

and there the dot of a house, and the column of thin, blue smoke no

bigger than that which curls up from your cigar. The next instant the

pretty vision is swept out of sight. You are thundering along on the

edge of a curve right in the clutches of these Titans. The motion

of the train impresses you with the idea that they are moving down

upon it with resistless might, and that they will crush it like an

egg-shell. You are surrounded with dense shadows. The mountains are

bowing down their shaggy heads. You almost feel their weight pressing

down upon you, and their breath, full of the bracing essence of

life, in your face. It seems almost profanation to speak with such a

presence near you, and you can only think thoughts too deep for the

fashion of words. But anon, the train speeds through the sulphurous

blackness of a tunnel, and you emerge into the sunlight, rolling

in great waves of gold up the mountain sides, and giving you weird

effects of light and shade, and constantly changing emerald tints

that would mock the finest frenzy of the artist. I believe the clouds

love to deck the mountains, as the sea loves to deck the shore with

shells and sea-flowers. A sunrise or sunset in those mountains when

the heavens are full of clouds, shows what dyes nature can use, and

what forms she can mould, as you will see them nowhere else.

July 3, 1869.

_THE JUBILEE._

BOSTON, June 15, 1869.

The day of Jubilee has come.

Boston has been in a flutter of agitation and excitement to-day; for,

truth to say, Boston herself has not been over sanguine as to the

success of the Jubilee. It is probable that not a person in the city

has regarded the experiment in the light of an unquestioned success,

except Mr. Gilmore, in whose fertile brain the Jubilee was conceived,

and by whom it has been pushed forward, in the face of obstacles,

to a successful birth. When Mr. Gilmore offered the Jubilee to New

York, the Manhattanites laughed at him, and gently insinuated that

he had gone clean daft, whereupon Mr. Gilmore took his embryonic

Jubilee to Boston, and, undaunted by obstacles, and unannoyed by

the gibes and jeers of the faithless, he worked in season and out

of season, put this wheel and that wheel together, got this man and

that man interested in it, melted even the adamantine hearts of the

musicians themselves, and at last got his project so far advanced

that it became a matter of city pride to put the municipal shoulder

to the wheel and help Gilmore out with his mammoth undertaking. And

Boston did help him right royally. Once provided with the ducats and

with the collaterals, which guaranteed him financial safety, the

foundations of the enterprise were laid, and the superstructure grew

rapidly. Singers and instruments, big singers and little singers,

big fiddles and little fiddles, poured in as fast and as thick as

the dogs and cats in Beard's picture. I myself saw, riding on a boat

of Commodore Fisk's, from New York to Fall River, _en route_ to the

Jubilee, sixty double basses ranged along on the deck, like coffins

swathed in green bags, and to-day I saw them again manipulated in the

vast orchestra, to show that I do not lie.

The material was, at last, all in his hands, and the material was

composed of one thousand instruments--a big organ, ten thousand

singers, a Coliseum, and sundry properties by way of appendices, such

as a battery of artillery, church bells, and anvils. And the question

immediately arose:

What will he do with them?

This is the question which has agitated Boston to-day, from the

harbor to the Back Bay, and from Bunker Hill to Jamaica Plain. When

Boston woke up this morning, notwithstanding her doubts, she dressed

herself in festal garments of streamers, flags and bunting, to do

honor to the occasion, and to properly impress the strangers within

her borders with the fact that she was out for a holiday, and was

bound to enjoy herself. And there were strangers enough within her

borders. Every other man you met upon the narrow sidewalks was a

carpet-bagger, and every other woman had a roll of music in her

hands. Band musicians in all sorts of uniforms, carrying all sorts of

odd-looking boxes, met you and jostled you at every turn, for it is

impossible for two people to pass each other upon a Boston sidewalk,

especially if one has a box or a carpet-bag in his hands. Every

train and every boat which has arrived to-day was loaded down with

musical freight, and all the morning they filed down Boylston street

to the Coliseum, in water-proof cloaks with their rolls of music. The

hotels are filled with them. The boarding houses are full, both in

the city and in the suburbs, and even some of the public halls have

been provided with cots, to accommodate the melodious strangers, who

have come here to lift up their voices in the grand chorus.

And it is a grand chorus. In 1836, Mendelssohn, the great master,

led 536 performers, and ten years later led his own "Elijah," with

a chorus of 700 before him. In 1862 a chorus of 4,000 voices sang

together at the Crystal Palace in London; and last year Costa led

4,500 in the same building. It was considered a great event--an

episode in the history of music. Julien, that eccentric little

conductor, conceived the idea of increasing upon this number, but

the very magnitude of his operations turned his brain, and he died

in a mad-house--his disordered mind, even in his dying moments,

being occupied with an imaginary orchestra. It has been left for Mr.

Gilmore to eclipse them all. What was some time a problem is now a

fixed fact; and the annals of music can show no grander triumph than

that which this daring, hard working man has achieved this day. When

Mr. Gilmore's baton closed the final chord of the massive Martin

Luther choral, he had done something which was worth living for. He

had a right to be proud of his work.

The Coliseum in which the Jubilee is given, is upon the made lands of

the Back Bay. Upon its site young Boston has fished in the summer,

and skated in the winter. When Boston had filled out to the water's

edge, it did what Canute could not do. It commenced to drive back the

sea, and each step that the sea receded was filled up and built upon.

Aristocracy turned its eyes thitherward, and went there to build its

free-stone fronts, and made it the handsomest part of the city. The

Coliseum is on the newest of this land, where it has not yet been

divided off into lots. Its immediate surroundings, therefore, are

not very attractive. The exterior of the building is not remarkably

beautiful, and the fine Natural History rooms, and other elegant

buildings near by, provoke architectural comparisons not particularly

favorable to it. It has a cheerful, pleasant appearance, however,

and derives a certain sort of brilliancy from the little flags of

divers colors which flutter in the breeze from every salient point.

The hucksters and venders of notions, who have improved the occasion

to turn an honest or dishonest penny, as the case may be, have not

improved the _ensemble_ with their scores of board shanties and

canvas tents, which have been dumped down upon the crude ground in

every direction. Their name is almost literally legion. There are

venders of ice creams, which are mushy and sloppy; of soda water with

gaudily colored syrups; of innocent vegetable beer, for the hard hand

of the law forbids the sale of anything stronger; of domestic cigars

compounded of innocuous herbs; of oranges, and pop corn, and bananas,

and photographs, and fans. At this shanty you may get revolving heels

placed upon your boots, and at that one you can get key tags stamped.

Here the wild men of Borneo are delighting a crowd, and there you

may see a two-headed monkey cheap. Blind men are selling ballads.

Small girls are vending hot roasted peanuts. Here is a shooting

gallery, and there a fandango. The old buxom Irish women of the

common, who have been accustomed to drowse away their days under the

elms, have suddenly become imbued with the enterprise of the hour,

and are driving sharp bargains on the Back Bay in oranges and candy,

and puff away at their dhudeens with an air of self congratulation.

Notwithstanding these drawbacks, however, the Coliseum admirably

answers the purposes for which it was built. It is large enough

to accommodate all who will go. Its ventilation is excellent; its

acoustic properties good, and its conveniences perfect as they can

be. The interior is beautifully decorated with bunting, streamers,

flags, and various paintings and devices. The sub-rooms, especially

the reception room, are exquisitely adapted to the purposes for

which they were designed. The latter room, this morning, presented a

perfect wilderness of flowers, and its walls were hung with elegant

paintings. Its seating capacity is, I should judge, between thirty

and forty thousand, exclusive of the chorus and orchestra. The

roughness and blank appearance of unfinished wood-work, has been

concealed by drapery and bunting very gracefully arranged, and from

one end of the Coliseum to the other, the eye is attracted by the

brightest of colors.

It is now my task to describe to you the opening concert, and I

freely confess my inability to do so. As I write you, the deep

diapason of that mighty organ, the surging waves of harmony from the

largest orchestra and the marvelous sublimity of the largest chorus

the world has ever known, are still in my ears, and it seems to me

that I can find no words to describe it. I can feel it, but I cannot

make you feel it with poor words. It almost seems a profanation to

attempt it. To see that multitude alone is electrifying. It makes

your blood stir within you, to look upon that great sea of faces

stretching off into the distance, and to know that one man holds them

in his hand, and with his little baton guides and sways them at his

will. One man in that vast throng is only as one drop in the sea--one

grain of sand upon the shore. His voice is indistinguishable, but

the aggregate, you feel within you, will be as the on-coming of the

mighty storm.

Picture to yourself the scene. Immediately before you is the

orchestra, one thousand strong, occupying the level platform. The

brasses are at the rear, as you may easily perceive, by a strip as of

gold, which runs through the sombre black, and right between them is

a huge bass drum, looming up like the wheel of a steamboat. From this

level platform, on three sides, rises an amphitheatre, which holds

the great chorus, ten thousand strong. The sopranos are on the left,

the altos on the right, and the tenors and bassos in the centre,

and up from their midst rise the open pipes of the great organ,

the player of which sits facing the conductor, at some distance

from the organ, communicating with him by means of speaking tubes.

Sub-conductors are also located near each of the choral parts, who

convey the instructions of the main conductors. Just at the right of

the conductor there is an electrical battery which communicates with

a section of artillery at a distance. The instrumental performers

are arranged in the orchestra. The first, the chorus orchestra, is

made up as follows:

_Stringed._ _Wind._

First Violins 115 | Flutes 8

Second Violins 100 | Clarionets 8

Violoncellos 65 | Oboes 8

Violas 65 | Bassoons 8

Double Basses 85 | Horns 12

---- | Trumpets 8

430 | Trombones 9

74 | Tubas 3

---- | Drums 10

Total, 504 | --

74

The grand orchestra is composed of the following instruments, in

addition to those specified above:

Piccolos and Flutes 25

E-flat Clarionets 20

B-flat Clarionets 50

E-flat Cornets 50

B-flat Cornets 75

E-flat Alto Horns 75

B-flat Tenor Horns 25

Tenor Trombones 50

Bass Trombones 25

B-flat Baritones 25

E-flat Basso Tubas 75

Small Drums 50

Bass Drums 25

Cymbals 10

Triangles 10

----

590

Chorus Orchestra 504

----

Total 1094

The players and singers are all in their places. The organ sounds a

few chords, and the players tune their instruments therefrom. Ole

Bull comes in and takes his seat at the head of the first violinists,

amid applause from all parts of the house, and the veteran Norwegian

cavalier sits there, with his bow upon his violin, as straight and as

lordly as one of his own pines, watching the conductor with flashing

eyes. It is Mr. Gilmore who has just followed him, and as he takes

the stand, enthusiasm breaks out in every part of the vast building,

and the applause is loud and long. When it has subsided, he raises

his baton. The chorus rises, and there is something stirring even

in the rising of such a vast throng. The audience is hushed, and,

for an instant, there is perfect stillness. The baton descends, and

chorus, orchestra and organ sound in a mighty chord of harmony the

opening note of Martin Luther's grand old choral. As they sweep

along through its slow and solemn movement as regularly as the swing

of a pendulum, the organ's mighty diapason upholding the whole and

keeping them together, it is like the voice of many waters. It is not

a chaos of noise, as I had dreamed it would be; not a mere volume

of sound without music. The voices come to you blended together as

the sounds of nature--the songs of the birds, the blasts of the

winds and the rushings of the torrents--blend. The instruments are

powerful, but smooth. In that vast array you lose the scrape of the

strings and the blare of the brasses. They are toned down into pure

harmony, and through all, in all, and about all, come the mighty

voices of the organ as the thunders come in the storm. The tears are

in your eyes before you know it. The audience before you disappears.

You are lifted, as it were, upon the great waves of music into the

very presence of the infinite, and the outside world, with all its

petty cares and troubles, is forgotten. On the repeat, the choral

is commenced _pianissimo_, and the music comes to you as if from

afar over the water. Gradually it approaches you, and, with a superb

_crescendo_, in which the organ carries everything along with it, the

cadenza is reached in a burst of harmony you have never heard before.

You may never hear it again. The conductor steps down from his stand

amid thunders of applause. It is at last proven that the Jubilee will

be a musical success.

Such singing and such playing I have never heard before. I do not

believe anything like it has ever been heard in the world. At first,

it seems to you that the choruses are not in time, for, from first to

last, they have not been with the conductor's beat, to one sitting at

some distance. Of course, you see the beat before you hear the sound,

as you see the wood-chopper's axe descend upon the distant hillside

before you hear the blow, and thus the chorus seems to be behind,

when, in reality, it is with the conductor.

Julius Eichberg, who wrote the pretty little "Doctor of Alcantara,"

next takes the baton, and the grand orchestra addresses itself to

the unraveling of Wagner's Tannhauser overture. The massing of

instruments in the opening of the overture is superb, and the main

theme is delivered with remarkable beauty. Soon they are lost in the

intricate modulations and chaotic discords of this musician of the

future; but when they begin to emerge into the chromatic violin runs,

and return once more to something which has a resemblance to melody

and a meaning in it, it is with a splendid burst of power; and one is

almost compelled to acknowledge that there is method in this Bavarian

madman, after all.

Once more, the chorus rises, and Carl Zerrahn takes the baton--the

flute-player of the old Germania orchestra, and one of the most

accomplished musicians living. He is a great favorite, both for his

musical and his gentlemanly qualities, and he is greeted with a very

storm of applause. The "Gloria" from Mozart's "Twelfth Mass" is next

on the programme. He is a very easy and graceful, and yet forcible

leader, and, notwithstanding the intricacy of the accompaniment and

the difficulty of the vocal score, under the magical influence of his

baton, the sublimity of the "Gloria" finds a graphic illustration.

Gounod's "Ave Maria," so full of suggestions of "Faust," is the next

number, and Parepa comes forward to sing it, dressed in pure white.

She receives a perfect ovation. In the morning, at rehearsal, she had

been very nervous. The vast orchestra and chorus before her almost

terrified her, and she was confident she could but make her voice

heard for a short distance. The "Ave Maria" is not a fair test of the

capabilities of her voice, however, as she has only an accompaniment

of _two hundred violins_ to do the _obligato_. She bows to the

audience, and, turning, acknowledges the hearty welcome which the

chorus has given her. Every tone of her voice is audible, even in the

most distant parts of the hall. Its absolute purity, and the entire

absence of woodiness in it, make it heard, and give you confidence

that you will also hear it in the "Inflammatus," where she will have

a severe test.

The "Star-Spangled Banner" is the next feature. It has been arranged

differently for this occasion, which may account for a slight _faux

pas_ which happened. The tenors and bassos take the first verse, and

the sopranos and altos the second verse in unison, which gives you

an excellent opportunity of hearing the various parts of the great

chorus by themselves. It would be difficult to say which was the

best, although I am inclined to give the palm to the tenors, and

yet I think no one who heard them can ever forget the other parts.

A serious mistake occurred in the accompaniment. The trumpets are

badly out. Some of the other brasses follow, and draw off some of the

violins. The chorus begins to waver. There is danger of a disastrous

breakdown. Gilmore, who is at the baton, is growing nervous; he

fairly jumps up and down in his anxiety. And still it is running

away, when suddenly Wilcox opens all the great organ, and with a

crash of sound and an obstinately right _tempo_, brings all the

discordant elements together again. The artillery peals in with its

thunder in perfect time, and as the last measure closes, the whole

audience rise unanimously to their feet at once, and the most intense

excitement prevails. Thousands of handkerchiefs are waved by the

ladies and flutter in the air like white doves. Men wave their hats

and clap their hands, and the air is filled with bravos and cheers,

which are kept up until the _encore_ is given.

Parepa has the next number, and it is her favorite number--the

"Inflammatus" from the Stabat Mater. Her voice has now a test such

as it has never had before; for in the last few measures she has to

sing against the full choral accompaniment of ten thousand voices,

the thousand instruments, and the organ. She passes through the

ordeal bravely. In the most distant part of the house you can hear

her voice. The sustaining of the upper C and the trills were superbly

done; and as she closed, her sustained high tones were as pure and as

beautiful as those of a bird singing in the distance. It was a grand

triumph for her, and the audience evidently regarded it in the same

manner, for they gave her a very hearty and unmistakable _encore_, to

which she replied with a repetition of the same. The absolute purity

of her voice was never better tested than upon this occasion.

Verdi should have been present to have heard his Anvil Chorus

performed. He is pre-eminently the great apostle of noise, and

ten thousand voices, one thousand instruments, one hundred

anvils--pounded by two hundred stalwart firemen in perfect time--and

a battery of artillery, adding to the din and marking the time

without a break, could not but have delighted him. The effect was

simply indescribable. The aggregate of sound was gigantic. The

firemen had been well trained, without the orchestra, by Mr. Gilmore

himself, and, although the whole affair was more or less sensational

and noisy, the effect was very stirring, and the audience insisted

upon an _encore_. Oliver Wendell Holmes' Hymn, set to the music of

Keller's "American Hymn;" the overture to "William Tell," which was

deliciously given; the Coronation March from the "Prophet," and the

national air, "America," completed this remarkable performance.

There were probably few among unprejudiced persons who did not

anticipate a musical failure upon this occasion. Many considered

it a piece of Boston braggadocio, and others a musical experiment,

in which all the chances were unfavorable. The result, however,

has proved just the reverse. With the exception, here and there,

of slight mistakes, in which some instruments got out of time and

occasioned variations which were so trifling that they did not

interfere with the effect, the whole affair was a musical success.

* * * * *

June 16, 1869.

The weather yesterday was purely Bostonian: wind from the southeast,

drizzling rains, dull, leaden clouds hurrying up from the salt water,

a sultry, humid atmosphere, and muddiest of all muddy flag-stones. It

was an inauspicious atmospherical commencement for the Jubilee, but

to-day the motto of the festival is granted, and we have peace. The

skies are bright, the air cool and bracing, and those little green

oases in the brick and stone desert, the Common and Public Gardens,

are as pleasant to the eye and as grateful to the senses as the

gardens of Paradise. The trees are alive with birds, the fountains

are glistening in the sunshine, and the cool walks are crowded with

pleasure-seekers and curiosity-hunters.

It is a gala day in Boston; for, in view of the arrival of the

President, the City Fathers have proclaimed a holiday, and all

Boston and the rest of the universe which revolves around it,

including Saugus Centre and Newton Four Corners, have turned out to

see General Grant and each other, eat popcorn and bananas, hear

the great chorus, and get all bedraggled and tired out by sunset.

The city is dressed out gaily in the red, white and blue, and, true

to the American characteristics, as much business as possible is

combined with it in the way of advertising. The American Eagle is

made to carry a fearful commercial weight upon his generous back in

Boston to-day, from the squat female Hibernian dealer in fly-specked

candies, even, to sundry granite-fronted, wholesale, solid men who

live in the omnipresent free-stone houses on the Back Bay. The

streets are literally crammed with people. Locomotion is a tedious

affair upon these ribbons of sidewalks, and the surging crowd

sometimes carries you, whether you will or no, into all sorts of

alleys and by-ways and serpentine streets, which are sure to land you

at somebody's front door. Fourth of July, the Saints' Day of Boston,

is in danger of its multitudinous laurels, for it has never witnessed

greater crowds than the magic baton of Gilmore has brought here.

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