ABOUT FURNISHING THE HOUSE.
IN these days of lavish ornamentation and bric-à-brac, the young
housekeeper must be on guard against filling her house with such
furnishings as would make it stuffy and cause it to lack individuality.
The home should be an index to the character of the family. Do not
furnish your house fully until you have lived in it a while. Buy at
first only such furniture as you need for comfort. When you are settled
you can study the needs of each part of the house, and, after you have
fully determined exactly what you want, buy it whenever you see an
advantageous chance.
Never decide hastily upon a piece of furniture; purchase for the future
as much as for the present. It is true fashions change in furniture from
year to year, but it is only people of large means who can follow a
fashion of this kind. The plain, elegant styles are quite expensive as
compared with the ordinary pieces which are turned out of factories by
the thousand, and which are covered with ornamentation to catch the
popular fancy. One quickly wearies of such furniture; besides, it is not
so well made as the plainer styles, and therefore gets out of order very
easily.
Get the things necessary for kitchen, bedroom, dining-room, and
sitting-room before doing anything about the parlor, and let every
article be of good quality, no matter how plain. Make an estimate of
what you can spend on each room; then get the best things possible.
What to Buy for the Chambers.
One can get a chamber set for as low a sum as twenty-five dollars; but
the prices run up rapidly until the hundreds are reached. Handsome, well
made sets, with little or no ornamentation (the quality of the wood, and
the finish, giving them a simple elegance not found in more showy
pieces) cost from forty to seventy-five dollars. The set includes
bedstead, dressing-case, wash-stand, towel-rack, a small table, two
common chairs, and a rocker. The more expensive sets have the English
wash-stand. No marble is used with the finest chamber furniture. The
springs, mattresses, etc., must be purchased separately, as a rule. Have
good ones. Have shades and plain muslin curtains for the windows. Stain
the floors, if possible. If you prefer not to do that, use straw
matting, with one rug beside the bed and another in front of the
wash-stand. In buying the toilet set select one that has a plain, fine
shape and simple decoration.
Dining-room Furniture.
There are two articles which one must have for this room: a table and
some chairs. It often happens that the young housekeeper, not realizing
the necessity for having these of generous size, and well made, chooses
articles that appear good, but which, in a short time, become unstable.
Oak is the most satisfactory wood for the dining-room. Have the table of
good width, as a narrow one never looks well. The chairs should be
strong, broad-seated, and with high backs.
Having the chairs and table, you can wait for the other things, although
a sideboard table is a desirable thing, if one can afford it. If you
cannot have exactly what you want, be patient. Sideboards, sideboard
tables, and china closets of glass all come in such simple yet tasteful
designs that one may be sure to like them all one’s life. It will pay to
wait for such a piece of furniture. Have a hard-wood floor, if you can;
otherwise have the floor stained. Just enough of the floor may be
stained to make a deep border, and a simple rug be placed in the centre
of the room. Shades, without any draperies, answer very well for this
room.
Comfort in the Sitting-room.
In the sitting-room, where the family gathers for the evening, and where
some members of the household spend a good part of each day, put all the
comfort you can. Let it be one of the largest and brightest rooms in the
house. There should be a bookcase, a firm table of good size, several
comfortable chairs, a couch with plenty of pillows, a good lamp, with a
shade that will not try the eyes, some pictures, a few plants and shades
and draperies that will soften, but not exclude, the light. If possible,
have an open fireplace. Let this be a room that shall always be
remembered as one of the pleasantest spots in the world. When possible,
have a hard-wood or a stained floor, with a rug in the centre.
Selecting Carpets and Rugs.
In buying carpets remember that the best are always the cheapest. The
more limited one’s means are, the more essential it is that only a good
article shall be purchased. The best quality of body Brussels will
outwear two or more of the cheaper tapestry carpets. A finely woven
smooth ingrain carpet may cost half a dollar more per yard than one of
common texture, but it will be cheaper in the end. Nothing is more
unsatisfactory than one of the loosely woven straw mattings. A fine
matting, costing say from sixty to seventy cents a yard, will last a
dozen years or more, with constant wear, too. It is so fine that but
little dust sifts through, and the strands do not pull apart, as in
coarser grades. Rugs for the centre of the room can be made from a body
Brussels, with a border to match. They should be tacked down. Japanese
cotton rugs, pretty and durable, cost from three to six dollars. They
are good for bedrooms, bath-rooms, and sitting-rooms. Buy handsome rugs
whenever you can afford to. They are a good investment; for, unlike
carpets, they do not wear out, and you can hand them down in the family
the same as silver or diamonds. A beautiful Oriental rug is a joy
forever. In selecting one be particular to see that the colors are rich,
and have some brightness. In general, when choosing carpets, have the
groundwork rather light, and the colors somewhat neutral. Such a carpet
will always look clean, and you will not feel the need of shutting out
the sunlight through fear of the carpet’s fading.
Choosing a Dinner and Tea Set.
To the young housekeeper of limited means the choice of her table china
is quite an important matter. One can get sets for seven and eight
dollars, but I should not advise buying anything cheaper than a
fifteen-dollar set. If a decorated set be wanted, take one having soft
tints, because people soon get weary of seeing pronounced colors or
patterns.
Very pretty English sets of one hundred and fifty pieces, decorated in
blue, may be had for fifteen dollars. Minton sets of one hundred and
thirty-six pieces, basket-pattern border, and decorated in a fine shade
of blue, are offered as low as twenty-five dollars.
American china sets in colored decorations are sold at about the same
price as the English. Plain white French china sets of one hundred and
thirty pieces cost about thirty-five dollars. The quality and prices
rise rapidly until sets costing hundreds of dollars are reached.
In making a choice from the great variety displayed there are several
things to consider. For instance, what price can you afford to pay? Is
the style one that will be lasting, and are the goods durable? It often
happens that the decoration of a cheap set is much daintier than that of
some of the more expensive kinds.
The English and American wares are thick, and do not chip or break
easily; but when they do chip, the broken part soon becomes dark. The
glaze on these wares cracks readily when exposed to a high temperature.
In a dinner set one does not notice particularly that the ware is thick;
but thickness in the cups and saucers is disagreeably noticeable,
especially in the English wares. Then, too, unless one get a “stock
pattern,” it will often be difficult and expensive to replace a broken
piece. The dealers intend to carry a pattern five years; after that one
cannot feel sure of replacing a broken piece without much delay and
expense. Plain white French china can always be replaced; the glaze does
not crack when exposed to a high temperature; if chipped, the broken
part does not become discolored; the ware is in good shapes; the cups
and saucers are delicate and pretty, so that a full set of the china is
desirable, which, to my mind, is not the case with the English or
American wares.
In buying the French china it is wise to get plates with rolled edges.
It seems to me, all things considered, that the French china is the most
satisfactory, unless there is to be rather rough handling, when I would
advise the purchase of the English or American productions. In that case
I would further advise that only a dinner set be bought, and that
something daintier be taken for the tea and breakfast table.
Odd cups and saucers are quite proper, and give variety and brightness
to the table. Odd dessert and salad plates, also, are to be preferred to
the regulation sets. The dessert plates and cups and saucers that may be
picked up here and there in one’s travels are constant reminders of
pleasant experiences.
Dainty Things for the Table.
Glass has largely taken the place of silver on some of the most elegant
tables, many housekeepers collecting and prizing cut-glass as they would
jewels; but the woman of moderate means and good taste will find it
possible to set her table with plain, clear glass of dainty and elegant
shapes which will add brilliancy to the entire table service. Water
bottles, or carafes, as they are commonly called, are much used, and are
a great convenience. Individual salt-cellars are again used instead of
the salt-shakers which were so popular for many years. These
salt-cellars come in glass, dainty china, and silver. A small silver
salt-spoon is placed by each one. The china and silver are by all odds
the most effective on the table. Pepper bottles of odd designs are
placed by the salt. Castors are not in favor.
Bread-and-butter plates may be used at all meals, but are particularly
suited for breakfast, luncheon, and tea. They are placed at the left of
the regular plate. When the butter and bread are passed, you put them on
this plate, dispensing with the small butter plate. These little plates
are a great help in keeping the table-cloth clean. They come in several
sizes and tasteful patterns.
Fashions in Cutlery.
Table cutlery, as the designation was formerly understood, included all
the knives and forks, nut-picks, etc. To-day, among well-to-do people,
all the forks, except that which belongs to the carving set, are either
sterling-silver or silver-plated. It is astonishing how the table
appliances have multiplied in this luxurious age. For the fish course
there are sterling-silver knives and forks of special shapes, and a
broad silver knife and fork for serving the fish. Oyster forks of
another shape are considered indispensable when raw oysters are served.
Knives and forks of medium size are used for entrées, the forks being
silver and the knives having silver, silver-plated, or steel blades. For
the meat course the forks are silver and the blades of the knives steel.
The dessert knives and forks are silver-plated; the butter knives that
are placed by the little bread-and-butter plates are silver. So it will
be seen that the cutlery of to-day does not mean for fine tables what it
did formerly. Common knives and forks are made with flat tangs, to which
pieces of wood or bone are joined for the handle. In fine knives the
tang is made round, and is pressed into a round groove made in the
handle. Sometimes this is fastened with a rivet, sometimes with a
spring, and again with some cement.
The handles of the finest knives are weighted, unless made of a heavy
material like silver. This is important, as it causes the knife to lie
flat upon the table. Handles are made of sterling silver,
mother-of-pearl, ivory, grained celluloid, plain celluloid, etc.
Buckhorn and imitations of buckhorn are used a great deal for carving
sets. Ivory has been used the most for the best class of knives and
forks, but in furnace-heated houses the ivory is apt to split. Even the
greatest care does not insure against it, and dealers find that this
often happens while the goods are kept in their stores. As a substitute
for ivory, celluloid, grained celluloid, and ivorine are coming into
use. These substances neither crack, stain, nor turn yellow, as does the
ivory; which, of course, is a great consideration. Mother-of-pearl
handles cost about twice as much as ivory. With proper care one can keep
them in good condition through a lifetime. Sterling-silver handles are
very handsome and satisfactory. Knives and forks with metal handles,
which are plated with the rest of the knife or fork, are the most
commonly used, because they are so easily cared for and are not liable
to get out of order. They are, however, not found upon elegant tables.
WHAT IS NEEDED IN THE KITCHEN.
The kitchen is so important a part of the home that the furnishing
should be such as to make the work there both easy and successful. The
following list may aid the young housekeeper when making her purchases.
The woman with a limited purse may find that she will have to strike out
many things from the list, while the woman with a large house and money
in plenty will probably extend it.
The Range.
Upon no one article of household furniture do the comfort and well-being
of the family depend so much as upon the kitchen range or stove. A poor
range will spoil not only food, but also good temper and happiness;
whereas the right sort of range, well treated, will be a source of the
greatest comfort and economy. No matter what else you feel you must
economize in, do not let it be in buying the kitchen range. Some ranges
have reached such a degree of perfection that it is hard to see where
they can be improved. The plainer the range the easier it will be to
keep it clean, and of course the cost will be less than if it be trimmed
very much. Before making a choice, examine every part thoroughly. Always
try to get one that has a large oven in proportion to the size of the
range. There should be plenty of dampers that can be used to hasten the
fire or to check it, so that it will keep twelve hours, if necessary.
Ranges are made that will do this. Learn all the characteristics of your
range, and treat it well; then it will be an invaluable friend to you.
In the kitchen, as in every other part of the house, it is economy to
furnish with good articles. Poor cooking utensils are never cheap. In
buying iron utensils, be sure to get those that are thoroughly finished.
The steel goods come higher than the cast-iron, but they are so smooth
that they are four times as valuable in the kitchen as the rougher
makes.
The granite or agate ware lightens the labors in the kitchen
wonderfully. It is, however, very expensive, and is not so well made as
formerly. When buying this ware, examine it closely to see that there is
no defect in the enamel. A careful housekeeper who does her own work
will find this ware a great comfort, it is so light, smooth, and clean;
and with good treatment it will last well.
Mixing-bowls come in yellow and white ware. The white is stone china,
and is more durable than the yellow; and although it costs more than the
latter, it is cheaper in the end. A steamer of medium size is one of the
most useful utensils. If it be light and simple, it will be used
frequently for making puddings and for warming over food, etc. The
cheapest kind is made of tin, and in two parts, the lower part being a
deep saucepan, into which the water is put, and the upper part a round
pan with a perforated bottom. Be particular to see that the cover and
all other parts fit well.
Here is a list of articles with which all kitchens should be supplied:—
List of Articles most in Use.
Basins, of granite ware,—one three-pint, one two-quart, one
one-gallon.
Bowls: yellow,—two two-quart, one three-quart, one one-gallon,
two six-quart; white,—six, each holding about a pint; two
smooth ones, each holding about a quart.
Bread board.
Bread pans, two, for small loaves.
Broilers,—one for fish, one for other uses.
Broom.
Bucket, or tin box, for sugar.
Cake pans, three,—one deep, two shallow.
Carving knife and fork.
Case knives and forks, six each.
Chairs, three,—one to be low and comfortable.
Chopping knife and bowl.
Coffee-pot.
Colander.
Cups and saucers, half a dozen.
Dipper, long-handled.
Dish-cloths, two,—one being of wire.
Dishpans, two.
Dish rack.
Double boilers, two,—one holding one quart, the other two.
Dredgers for salt, pepper, and flour.
Dripping-pans, two,—large and small.
Duster.
Dustpan.
Egg-beater.
Flour scoop.
Flour sieve.
Frying-basket.
Frying-pans,—one, small, with short handle; four with long
handles, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 5.
Glass jars for rice, etc.
Graters,—one for nutmegs; one coarse, for general use.
Griddle.
Lemon squeezer, glass.
Measuring cups, two.
Meat board.
Meat rack, small.
Moulding board.
Muffin pans, two,—each holding eight or twelve muffins.
Pitchers, four, for milk, etc.
Plates, one dozen.
Platters, two stone-china, for meat.
Pudding mould, melon, three-pint.
Quart measure.
Range.
Rolling-pin.
Roll-pans, French, holding six or eight rolls.
Scotch bowl, No. 4.
Skewers, set of steel.
Soap-shaker.
Spice boxes or jars.
Spoons,—six teaspoons, two table spoons, two wooden spoons,
two large iron spoons.
Steamer.
Stewpans,—two one-quart, two two-quart, two three-quart, one
six-quart.
Stone pots, several small ones, with covers, for various kinds
of meal.
Stove-brush.
Strainers, two, small,—one for general use, the other for
gravy; also one of fine wire.
Tables, two; if possible, have one covered with zinc or enamel
cloth.
Teakettle.
Teapot.
Tin boxes for bread and cake.
Tin plates, four, deep.
Tin sheet.
Towels,—three kinds for dishes, and others for the hands.
Vegetable masher.
FURNISHING THE LINEN CLOSET.
In olden times the bride came to her new home with a generous supply of
linen, the greater part of which was spun and woven by her own hands; in
many cases, indeed, the flax was raised and prepared for the
spinning-wheel by her. In some parts of Europe this custom still exists.
The bride of to-day takes great pains and pride in providing her
household linen, many months being given to dainty sewing and
embroidery. Each article has stitched into it many bright hopes and day
dreams. Nothing else in the furnishing of the home has blended with it
so many tender, loving thoughts, and to the woman of sentiment it is
more sacred than almost any other household possession. Once acquired,
this love for fine household linen will cling to a woman all her life.
Indeed, what material thing can she bring to her new home that will give
more pleasure than a generous supply for her linen closet?
Imported Linens.
Irish, French, Scotch and English table linens cover many grades, from
the coarsest to the finest weaving and the most elaborate patterns. All
the new designs are large, but in some of the choicest damasks it is
possible to get small patterns, if they be preferred. The damask sold by
the yard rarely reaches a higher price than two dollars and a half. If
one wish for especially pleasing designs and extremely fine quality, it
will be necessary to buy the set,—table-cloth and one dozen napkins. The
usual width of the best table damask is two yards and a half, but it may
be three yards in width. The cloths come from two and a half to four
yards in length. In these handsome cloths the border is deep, and the
centre frequently perfectly plain.
Table-cloths and Napkins.
The range in quality and price of table linen is greater than that of
almost any other fabric. It is a long step from the materials that are
so coarse, so loosely woven that they might be used for sieves, to the
double damask, so fine that even under a magnifying glass it is almost
impossible to discern the threads. One can buy three or four yards of
the coarse fabric for about a dollar, and it is possible to be asked one
hundred times as much for a dozen napkins and a table-cloth, three or
four yards long, of the finer quality. But the average housekeeper does
not go to these extremes. It does, however, often happen that a woman
with a limited purse, and a thousand calls upon it, makes the mistake of
buying table linen of too inferior a grade. It is not economy to
purchase a mixture of cotton and linen. Better a coarse all-linen table
cloth than a fine one with part cotton, which may look attractive in the
store, but cannot be laundered well, whereas the pure linen will improve
with age and wear. In purchasing table linen the questions that the
housekeeper should ask herself are: Will it be subject to hard wear, and
be laundered by inexperienced hands? Can I afford to replenish it
frequently? Shall it be fine and beautiful, or shall it be durable, with
as much beauty as possible under the circumstances?
The finest goods are of Irish and French manufacture; but the German,
while coarse, wear wonderfully well, and some of them have very handsome
designs. Nothing in the way of linen lasts longer than the half-bleached
damask, and if one live in the country, this may be bleached to a snowy
whiteness in a few months. In purchasing these German goods it is wise
to get a cloth that costs at least one dollar and a half or two dollars
per yard. A cloth of this kind will outwear several of the cheaper
grades that are mixed with cotton, and if properly laundered it will
always look well. Of course, one can get in these goods a fair piece of
table linen at seventy-five cents or a dollar per yard, but the better
quality will be found to be the cheaper in the end. Dinner, luncheon,
and tea sets may be had, the cloth costing no more than if bought by the
yard, with the advantage of having a border all around it.
A piece of heavy felt or double-faced Canton flannel will be required
under the table-cloth. It will cost about eighty cents a yard. It is a
good plan to get one that will answer when the table is enlarged for
guests. It can be folded double when the table is small.
Size and Quality of Napkins.
Fashion has decreed that a napkin shall not be put on the table a second
time until it has been washed. Few housekeepers, however, have the means
to provide themselves with such a supply of napkins, not to speak of the
laundress to care for them; so the napkin ring is still a necessity in
the average household. It is important, however, that the supply be
large enough to admit of their being changed two or three times a week.
For general use a dinner napkin is to be preferred, unless a separate
set of table-cloths and napkins be desired for breakfast. In that case
the napkins should be smaller than for dinner. All napkins are finished
with a plain hem, or are hemstitched.
Fringe is rarely used, except on fancy doilies. The plain square napkin
comes in all sizes, from twenty inches to the size of the dinner
napkins, which measure twenty-seven inches; and the cost is anywhere
from one dollar and a half to fifty dollars a dozen. At five or six
dollars a dozen one can get napkins that are good enough for ordinary
use. The cheaper and smaller ones are unsatisfactory. Whenever possible,
the napkin should match the cloth. One cloth will outwear two sets of
napkins; therefore it is well to get two dozen napkins to each cloth.
One cannot err in laying in a generous stock of plain ones, but the
style of the small fancy napkins is constantly changing, and one should
not buy too many of them at a time.
A Word about Doilies.
Small square or round doilies are used a great deal under finger bowls,
Roman punch, and sherbet glasses. These dainty bits of napery can be
purchased in all the stores where embroidery and materials for
needlework are sold; also in the linen stores. These doilies are either
hemstitched or fringed. The embroidery is usually in washable silks,
fine flowers or Dresden patterns being the favorites. Doilies also come
in Irish point, Mexican work, and various kinds of lace. Larger doilies
for bread, cake, cheese, etc., are embroidered in white or colored
silks, with appropriate mottoes. Ladies who wish to do this kind of work
for themselves, or their friends, can send to a stamping and embroidery
store for a sample doily, and the materials for a dozen or more. One
should aim to get as much variety as possible in color and design in the
dozen. A very fine linen is the material generally used.
At the Oriental stores there can be found a small doily, of a crêpe-like
material, thickly embroidered with silk, or silver and gold thread. They
come with and without a fringe, the fringed ones costing more than twice
as much as those without. I prefer those without the fringe for table
use. These doilies can be washed, but it must be with great care. If the
housekeeper will be careful to wash and iron her doilies herself, they
will always look fresh and dainty. Make a strong suds with hot water and
white castile soap; wash the doilies in this, and rinse them in several
warm waters. Squeeze them very dry, and spread them on a clean towel,
and cover another towel over them. Roll up tight and iron immediately.
Tea, Carving, and Tray Cloths.
For the small tables that are set for five o’clock teas and card
parties, etc., there are many pretty and inexpensive cloths. Plain
linen, with a plain or double row of hemstitching, makes a satisfactory
cloth. The cost is about one dollar for a cloth measuring a yard square;
plain damask, with hemstitching, costs from one dollar and a half to two
dollars a square yard, and one dollar more for a cloth measuring two
square yards. Some long damask cloths, with open-work borders and a
fringe, cost four or five dollars. Small hemstitched cloths of linen and
damask come for carving cloths, tray cloths, and centre pieces. They
cost all the way from twenty-five cents upward. These are useful in
protecting the table, and they may be made decorative by embroidery.
Sheets and Pillow Cases.
Sheets should always be of generous length and width; never less than
two yards and three quarters long, with the breadth, of course,
depending upon the width of the bed. While linen sheets are desirable,
they are not within the means of all housekeepers of even fair incomes.
Cotton cloth makes a most satisfactory all-the-year-round sheet, and a
good quality can be purchased at from twenty-five cents to seventy-five
cents per yard, the cloth being from two yards to two and a half wide.
Indeed, one can buy good sheets already made, two yards and a half wide,
for one dollar and a quarter or one dollar and a half apiece. It is
always more economical to buy the cloth and make them at home, for two
hems do not mean much work. Unbleached sheeting may be made up, and
bleached on the grass. Buy unbleached cotton for servants’ sheets and
pillow cases, but do not make them too small. If the bed linen be made
of generous proportions it will protect the bedding, and be more
comfortable for the sleepers. Linen sheets three yards long can be
bought for from five to fourteen dollars per pair. Pillow cases to match
sell from two to three dollars and a half per pair. The finest are
hemstitched.
Bed Spreads and Blankets.
For many years the honeycomb and Marseilles spreads have been almost
universally used. They are still sold in large quantities, and will
always be popular, for they need only to be hemmed in order to be made
ready for use. They do not rumple readily, they keep clean a long time,
and are, indeed, a most serviceable article. The Marseilles quilts cost
from two to fifteen dollars. Some come in colors; but let no housekeeper
be tempted by their beauty, for she will find it a difficult matter to
make them harmonize with the other furnishings of her rooms. Dimity is
being used again. It costs from two dollars and a half to four dollars
and a half a spread. If one wish to make a bolster scarf to go with the
dimity, it will be necessary to purchase a small spread and cut it in
two. These spreads, being dainty and easily washed, are in great favor.
Materials for spreads come in all sorts of fabrics. Gobelin cloth and
what is called basket cloth, both soft, pretty goods, are found two
yards wide, and cost about one dollar and a half a yard. These materials
are made into spreads and bolster scarfs; or, instead of the scarfs, a
round bolster may be covered with the material. These spreads and scarfs
are often embroidered in washable silks.
Next to bed linen and towels in plenty, one of the essentials for the
health and comfort of the household is the stock of blankets. Cotton
batting comforters are cheap and warm, but extremely debilitating to the
sleeper; and since they cannot be washed, they are uncleanly, as
compared with the woollen coverings. Use plenty of blankets instead, and
have them washed frequently. For people of limited means, blankets that
cost from five to six dollars a pair are serviceable. People are buying
more blankets that are made of part wool and part cotton than of the
all-wool patterns. This is because they can be washed frequently without
shrinking. Select a smooth, soft blanket with white cotton binding. The
simpler the border the longer it will please you. If possible, have a
pair of summer blankets for each bed. These cost from three to ten
dollars a pair. They can be washed as easily as a sheet, and are a
source of the greatest comfort in hot weather. As they will last the
greater part of a lifetime, get good ones. When blankets are not in use
they should be folded smoothly, pinned in sheets, and placed on shelves
in the linen closet.
Bath and Bedroom Towels.
In nothing relating to the supplies of her house does the average
housekeeper make so many errors as in the matter of towels. It has not
been wholly her fault in the past, but it certainly will be in the time
to come, if bright borders and deep fringes decorate the towels with
which she furnishes her chambers and bath-rooms. As in the past, so it
is now: there is nothing so satisfactory for general use as the
huckaback towels. They are excellent for absorbing water, and the slight
friction is both pleasant and healthful. They are now hemstitched, and
cost from twenty-five cents to a dollar and a half apiece, according to
size and quality. The goods can be bought by the yard if one prefer to
make her own towels. There are huckaback towels of fancy weaving, which,
hemstitched, cost from fifty cents to on dollar and a quarter apiece.
Some of these are fringed, at thirty-seven and a half cents apiece.
Damask towels, which are really more for show than use, cost from
twenty-five cents to two dollars and a half. For the bath-room there are
really so many good things that it is a difficult matter to choose.
There always should be soft coarse towels that will absorb water
quickly, and at the same time cause a slight friction. The towels also
should be of generous size. The huckaback is always good for drying off,
but there should be a good friction towel after this. Among the good
bath towels are crash towels, at twenty-five cents apiece. Oxford
towels, something like huckaback, but very large—26 × 50 inches—are one
dollar apiece. Imperial bath towels, of a peculiar style of weaving,
absorbing water like a sponge, cost a dollar apiece. Turkish towels make
an excellent friction towel, and are within the means of all. They can
be bought for even less than twenty-five cents; but I would not advise
anything cheaper than twenty-five or fifty cents, as a towel of this
kind should be large. An article which to me seems ideal as a friction
towel is the kind made of linen tape, which costs one dollar.
For Kitchen and Pantry.
There should be a generous supply of kitchen and pantry towels. Nothing
is more satisfactory for glassware than the plaid linen towels. These
should be kept for silver, glass, and fine china. Goods of this same
character come in stripes, and cost from twelve and a half to
thirty-seven and a half cents per yard. Fine Russian crash, when
softened by a little wear, makes the best kitchen dish towel. It grows
finer and whiter with each week’s use, whereas the very coarse fabric
really never softens. Every kitchen should be supplied with half a dozen
stove towels. Get twilled brown cotton crash; cut it into
yard-and-a-half lengths and hem it. Keep but two of these towels in the
kitchen, and have one washed each day. They are to use in handling the
pots and pans about the stove and oven. There should be a generous
allowance of crash towels in the kitchen, as every utensil should be
carefully wiped with one that is clean and dry.
The hand towels in the kitchen should be soft and smooth. Frequent
wiping on the rough Russian crash will soon make the hands red and
rough, as this hard fabric scratches and does not wipe dry. A twilled
crash of cotton and linen, which may be bought from twelve and a half to
fifteen cents a yard, makes satisfactory hand towels. There are many
varieties.
------------------------------------------------------------------------