_Lib. VI. Aëropetes_ [1]
CHAP. I. OSTRICH.
CHAP. II. CRANE OR DUCK, PARTRIDGE, DOVES, WOOD PIGEON, SQUAB
AND DIVERS BIRDS.
CHAP. III. THRUSH [2].
CHAP. IV. FIGPECKER [2].
CHAP. V. PEACOCK [2].
CHAP. VI. PHEASANT [2].
CHAP. VII. GOOSE.
CHAP. VIII. CHICKEN.
[1] Tac., Tor. _Trophetes_; probably an error in their
rendering. List. _Aëroptes_, Greek for Fowl.
[2] The titles of these chapters and the classification
is not adhered in the text of Book VI. The chapters are
actually inscribed as follows:
Chap. I, Ostrich; II, Crane or Duck, Partridge, Turtle
Dove, Wood Pigeon, Squab and divers birds; III,
Partridge, Heathcock (Woodcock), Turtle Dove; IV, Wood
Pigeon, Squab [Domestic Fattened Fowl, Flamingo]; V,
Sauce for divers birds; VI, Flamingo; VII, In Order That
Birds May Not Be Spoiled; VIII, Goose; IX, Chicken.
I
OSTRICH
_IN STRUTHIONE_
[210] BOILED OSTRICH
_IN STRUTHIONE ELIXO_
[A stock in which to cook ostrich] PEPPER, MINT, CUMIN, LEEKS [1],
CELERY SEED, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL.
BOIL THIS IN THE STOCK KETTLE [with the ostrich, remove the bird when
done, strain the liquid] THICKEN WITH ROUX. [To this sauce] ADD THE
OSTRICH MEAT CUT IN CONVENIENT PIECES, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER. IF YOU
WISH IT MORE SEASONED OR TASTY, ADD GARLIC [during coction].
[1] G.-V. _Cuminum_; Tor. _C., porrum_, which is more
likely.
[211] ANOTHER OSTRICH STEW
_ALITER [in] STRUTHIONE ELIXO_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, ALSO SATURY, HONEY, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND
OIL.
II
CRANE, DUCK, PARTRIDGE, DOVE, WOOD PIGEON, SQUAB, AND DIVERS BIRDS
_IN GRUE VEL ANATE PERDICE TURTURE PALUMBO COLUMBO ET DIVERSIS AVIBUS_
[212] CRANE OR DUCK
_GRUEM VEL ANATEM_
WASH [the fowl] AND DRESS IT NICELY [1] PUT IN A STEW POT, ADD WATER,
SALT AND DILL, PARBOIL [2] SO AS TO HAVE THEM HALF DONE, UNTIL THE
MEAT IS HARD, REMOVE THEM, PUT THEM IN A SAUCE PAN [to be finished by
braising] WITH OIL, BROTH, A BUNCH OF ORIGANY AND CORIANDER; WHEN
NEARLY DONE, ADD A LITTLE REDUCED MUST, TO GIVE IT COLOR. MEANWHILE
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, RUE [moistened
with] REDUCED WINE AND SOME HONEY, ADD SOME OF THE FOWL BROTH [3] TO
IT AND VINEGAR TO TASTE; EMPTY [the sauce] INTO A SAUCE PAN, HEAT,
BIND WITH ROUX, AND [strain] THE SAUCE OVER THE FOWL IN AN ENTRÉE
DISH.
[1] _Lavas et ornas_, i.e., singe, empty carcass of
intestines, truss or bind it to keep its shape during
coction, and, usually, lard it with either strips or
slices of fat pork and stuff the carcass with greens,
celery leaves, etc.
[2] _Dimidia coctura decoques._ Apicius here pursues the
right course for the removable of any disagreeable taste
often adhering to aquatic fowl, feeding on fish or food
found in the water, by parboiling the meat. Cf. {Rx} No.
214.
[3] Again, as so often: _ius de suo sibi_; here the
liquor of the braising pan, for stock in which the fowl
is parboiled cannot be used for reasons set forth in
Note 2.
[213] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING CRANE, DUCK OR CHICKEN
_ALITER IN GRUE [VEL] IN ANATE VEL IN PULLO_
PEPPER, SHALLOTS, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, PRUNES OR DAMASCUS PLUMS
STONES REMOVED, FRESH MUST, VINEGAR [1] BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL.
BOIL THE CRANE; WHILE COOKING IT TAKE CARE THAT ITS HEAD IS NOT
TOUCHED BY THE WATER BUT THAT IT REMAINS WITHOUT. WHEN THE CRANE IS
DONE, WRAP IT IN A HOT TOWEL, AND PULL THE HEAD OFF SO THAT THE SINEWS
FOLLOW IN A MANNER THAT THE MEAT AND THE BONES REMAIN; FOR ONE CANNOT
ENJOY THE HARD SINEWS [2].
[1] Dann. mead.
[2] Remarkable ingenuity! Try this on your turkey legs.
Danneil is of the opinion that the head and its feathers
were to be saved for decorative purposes, in style
during the middle ages when game bird patties were
decorated with the fowl's plumage, a custom which
survived to Danneil's time (ca. 1900). But this is not
likely to be the case here, for it would be a simple
matter to skin the bird before cooking it in order to
save the plumage for the taxidermist.
[214] CRANE OR DUCK WITH TURNIPS
_GRUEM VEL ANATEM EX RAPIS_ [1]
TAKE OUT [remove entrails, [2]] CLEAN WASH AND DRESS [the bird] AND
PARBOIL [2] IT IN WATER WITH SALT AND DILL. NEXT PREPARE TURNIPS AND
COOK THEM IN WATER WHICH IS TO BE SQUEEZED OUT [3]. TAKE THEM OUT OF
THE POT AND WASH THEM AGAIN [4]. AND PUT INTO A SAUCE PAN THE DUCK
WITH OIL, BROTH, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER; THE TURNIPS CUT INTO
SMALL PIECES; THESE PUT ON TOP OF THE [duck] IN ORDER TO FINISH
COOKING. WHEN HALF DONE, TO GIVE IT COLOR, ADD REDUCED MUST. THE SAUCE
IS PREPARED SEPARATELY: PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT MOISTENED
WITH VINEGAR AND DILUTED WITH ITS OWN BROTH [of the fowl]; BRING THIS
TO A BOILING POINT, THICKEN WITH ROUX. [In a deep dish arrange the
duck] ON TOP OF THE TURNIPS [strain the sauce over it] SPRINKLE WITH
PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Duck and Turnips, a dish much esteemed on the
Continent today. Only few prepare it correctly as does
Old Apicius; hence it is not popular with the multitude.
[2] Tac., Tor. _excipies_; Hum. _legendum: ex rapis_.
[3] G.-V. _ut exbromari possint_; Tor. _expromi_; Hum.
_expromari_; all of which does not mean anything. To
cook the turnips so that they can be squeezed out
(_exprimo_, from _ex_ and _premo_) is the proper thing
to do from a culinary standpoint.
[4] The turnips are cooked half, the water removed, and
finished with the duck, as prescribed by Apicius. It is
really admirable to see how he handles these food
materials in order to remove any disagreeable flavor,
which may be the case both with the turnips (the small
white variety) and the duck. Such careful treatment is
little known nowadays even in the best kitchens. Cf.
Note 2 to {Rx} No. 212.
[215] ANOTHER [SAUCE FOR] CRANE OR DUCK
_ALITER IN GRUEM VEL ANATEM ELIXAM_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DRY CORIANDER, MINT, ORIGANY, PINE NUTS, DATES,
BROTH, OIL, HONEY, MUSTARD AND WINE [1].
[1] Supposedly the ingredients for a sauce in which the
parboiled fowl is braised and served.
[216] ROAST CRANE OR DUCK
_ALITER GRUEM VEL ANATEM ASSAM_
POUR OVER [the roast bird] THIS GRAVY: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY
WITH BROTH, HONEY, A LITTLE VINEGAR AND OIL; BOIL IT WELL, THICKEN
WITH ROUX [strain] IN THIS SAUCE PLACE SMALL PIECES OF PARBOILED
PUMPKIN OR COLOCASIUM [1] SO THAT THEY ARE FINISHED IN THE SAUCE; ALSO
COOK WITH IT CHICKEN FEET AND GIBLETS (all of which) SERVE IN A
CHAFING DISH, SPRINKLE WITH FINE PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Cf. {Rx} Nos. 74, 216, 244, 322.
[217] BOILED CRANE OR DUCK IN ANOTHER MANNER
_ALITER IN GRUE VEL ANATE ELIXA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ROCKET, OR CORIANDER, MINT, DATES, HONEY,
VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND MUSTARD. LIKEWISE USED FOR FOWL ROAST
[braised] IN THE POT.
III
WAYS TO PREPARE PARTRIDGE, HEATH-COCK OR WOODCOCK, AND BOILED TURTLE-DOVE
_IN PERDICE ET ATTAGENA ET IN TURTURE ELIXIS_
[218] PARTRIDGE
_IN PERDICE_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, MYRTLE BERRIES, ALSO RAISINS, HONEY
[1] WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND OIL. USE IT COLD [2] THE PARTRIDGE IS
SCALDED WITH ITS FEATHERS, AND WHILE WET THE FEATHERS ARE TAKEN OFF;
[the hair singed] IT IS THEN COOKED IN ITS OWN JUICE [braised] AND
WHEN DONE WILL NOT BE HARD IF CARE IS TAKEN [to baste it]. SHOULD IT
REMAIN HARD [if it is old] YOU MUST CONTINUE TO COOK IT UNTIL IT IS
TENDER.
[1] Honey wanting in Tor.
[2] G.-V. _Aliter_. This is one formula.
[219] [SAUCE] FOR PARTRIDGE, HEATH-COCK AND TURTLE-DOVE
_IN PERDICE ET ATTAGENA ET IN TURTURE_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, MINT, RUE SEED, BROTH, PURE WINE, AND OIL, HEATED.
IV
WOOD PIGEONS, SQUABS, FATTENED FOWL, FLAMINGO
_IN PALUMBIS COLUMBIS AVIBUS IN ALTILE ET IN FENICOPTERO_
[220] FOR ROASTS: PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, CARRAWAY,
SHALLOTS, MINT, YOLKS OF EGG, DATES, HONEY,
VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL AND WINE.
[221] ANOTHER [sauce] FOR BOILED [birds]
_ALITER IN ELIXIS_
TO THE BOILED FOWL ADD [1] PEPPER, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, PARSLEY,
CONDIMENTS, MORTARIA [2] DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, OIL AND MUSTARD.
[1] Tor. wanting in other texts.
[2] _Mortaria_: herbs, spices, things pounded in the
"mortar." Cf. {Rx} No. 38.
[222] ANOTHER [sauce]
_ALITER_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, CELERY SEED, RUE, PINE NUTS, DATES, HONEY,
VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD AND A LITTLE OIL.
[223] ANOTHER [sauce]
_ALITER_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER, WINE [1] MOISTENED WITH BROTH. ADD WINE AND
BROTH TO TASTE. MASK THE WOOD PIGEON OR SQUAB WITH IT. SPRINKLE WITH
PEPPER [2] AND SERVE.
[1] Tac., Tor. _laserum, vinum_; G.-V. _l. vivum_.
[2] Wanting in Tor.
V
[224] SAUCE FOR DIFFERENT BIRDS
_IUS IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS_
PEPPER, DRY CUMIN, CRUSHED. LOVAGE, MINT, SEEDLESS RAISINS OR DAMASCUS
PLUMS, LITTLE HONEY, MYRTLE WINE TO TASTE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND OIL.
HEAT AND WHIP IT WELL WITH CELERY AND SATURY [1].
[1] For centuries sauce whips were made of dry and green
twigs, the bark of which was carefully peeled off.
[225] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR FOWL
_ALITER IUS IN AVIBUS_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, FENNEL BLOSSOMS [1] MOISTENED WITH
WINE; ADD ROASTED NUTS FROM PONTUS [2] OR ALMONDS, A LITTLE HONEY,
WINE, VINEGAR, AND BROTH TO TASTE. PUT OIL IN A POT, AND HEAT AND STIR
THE SAUCE, ADDING GREEN CELERY SEED, CAT-MINT; CARVE THE FOWL AND
COVER WITH THE SAUCE [3].
[1] Dann. _Cnecus_.
[2] Turkish hazelnuts.
[3] Tor. continuing without interruption.
[226] WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWL
_IUS CANDIDUM IN AVEM ELIXAM_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, TOASTED NUTS FROM PONTUS, OR
ALMONDS, ALSO SHELLED PINE NUTS, HONEY [1] A LITTLE BROTH, VINEGAR AND
OIL.
[1] Tor. _vel_; List. _mel_.
[227] GREEN SAUCE FOR FOWL
_IUS VIRIDE IN AVIBUS_
PEPPER, CARRAWAY, INDIAN SPIKENARD, CUMIN, BAY LEAVES, ALL KINDS OF
GREEN HERBS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, LITTLE BROTH, AND OIL.
[228] WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED GOOSE
_IUS CANDIDUM IN ANSERE ELIXO_
PEPPER, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, THYME, ONION, LASER ROOT,
TOASTED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL [1]
[1] A "sweet-sour" white sauce with herbs and spices is
often served with goose in northern Germany.
[229] TREATMENT OF STRONG SMELLING BIRDS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION
_AD AVES HIRCOSAS _[1]_ OMNI GENERE_
FOR BIRDS OF ALL KINDS THAT HAVE A GOATISH [1] SMELL [2] PEPPER,
LOVAGE, THYME, DRY MINT, SAGE, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH,
OIL, REDUCED MUST, MUSTARD. THE BIRDS WILL BE MORE LUSCIOUS AND
NUTRITIOUS, AND THE FAT PRESERVED, IF YOU ENVELOP THEM IN A DOUGH OF
FLOUR AND OIL AND BAKE THEM IN THE OVEN [3].
[1] Probably game birds in an advanced stage of "_haut
goût_" (as the Germans use the antiquated French term),
or "_mortification_" as the French cook says. Possibly
also such birds as crows, black birds, buzzards, etc.,
and fish-feeding fowl. Moreover, it must be borne in
mind that the refrigeration facilities of the ancients
were not too good and that fresh goods spoiled quickly.
Hence, perhaps, excessive seasoning, at least, as
compared to our modern methods.
List. _aves piscivoras_; Hum. thinks the birds to be
downright spoiled: _olidas, rancidas, & grave olentes_.
[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] For birds with a goatish smell Apicius should have
repeated his excellent formula in {Rx} No. 212, the
method of parboiling the birds before final coction, if,
indeed, one cannot dispense with such birds altogether.
The above recipe does not in the least indicate how to
treat smelly birds. Wrapping them in dough would vastly
increase the ill-savour.
As for game birds, we agree with most connoisseurs that
they should have just a suspicion of "_haut goût_"--a
condition of advanced mellowness after the _rigor
mortis_ has disappeared.
[230] ANOTHER TREATMENT OF ODOR
_ALIUD CONTRA UIROSUM ODOREM_ [1]
[IF THE BIRDS SMELL, [1]] STUFF THE INSIDE WITH CRUSHED FRESH OLIVES,
SEW UP [the aperture] AND THUS COOK, THEN RETIRE THE COOKED OLIVES.
[1] Tor.; other texts _aliter avem_, i.e. that the olive
treatment is not necessarily confined to ill smelling
birds alone.
VI
[231] FOR FLAMINGO [and Parrot]
_IN PH{OE}NICOPTERO_
SCALD [1] THE FLAMINGO, WASH AND DRESS IT, PUT IT IN A POT, ADD WATER,
SALT, DILL, AND A LITTLE VINEGAR, TO BE PARBOILED. FINISH COOKING WITH
A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER, AND ADD SOME REDUCED MUST TO GIVE IT
COLOR. IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER, LASER ROOT, MINT,
RUE, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD DATES, AND THE FOND OF THE BRAISED
BIRD, THICKEN, [strain] COVER THE BIRD WITH THE SAUCE AND SERVE.
PARROT IS PREPARED IN THE SAME MANNER.
[1] Prior to removing the feathers; also singe the fine
feathers and hair.
[232] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
ROAST THE BIRD. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, SESAM [1] PARSLEY,
MINT, SHALLOTS, DATES, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST
TO TASTE.
[1] Tor. _sesamum, defrutum_; G.-V. _s. frictum_.
VII
[233] TO PREVENT BIRDS FROM SPOILING
_AVES OMNES NE LIQUESCANT_
SCALDED WITH THE FEATHERS BIRDS WILL NOT ALWAYS BE JUICY; IT IS BETTER
TO FIRST EMPTY THEM THROUGH THE NECK AND STEAM THEM SUSPENDED OVER A
KETTLE WITH WATER [1].
[1] Dry picking is of course the best method. Apicius is
trying to overcome the evils of scalding fowl with the
feathers. This formula is mutilated; the various texts
differ considerably.
VIII
[FOR GOOSE]
[_IN ANSERE_]
[234] BOILED GOOSE WITH COLD APICIAN SAUCE
_ANSEREM ELIXUM EX IURE APICIANO FRIGIDO_
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER SEED [1] MINT, RUE, MOISTEN WITH BROTH
AND A MODERATE AMOUNT OF OIL. TAKE THE COOKED GOOSE OUT OF THE POT AND
WHILE HOT WIPE IT CLEAN WITH A TOWEL, POUR THE SAUCE OVER IT AND
SERVE.
[1] G.-V.; Tor. (fresh) coriander, more suited for a
cold sauce.
IX
[FOR CHICKEN]
[_IN PULLO_]
[235] RAW SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKEN
_IN PULLO ELIXO IUS CRUDUM_
PUT IN THE MORTAR DILL SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH
VINEGAR, FIG WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED MUST, AND
SERVE [1] [Known as] DILL CHICKEN [2].
[1] This and the preceding cold dressings are more or
less variations of our modern cold dressings that are
used for cold dishes of all kinds, especially salads.
[2] Tor. heads the following formula _præparatio pulli
anethi_--chicken in dill sauce, which is the correct
description of the above formula. Tac., G.-V. also
commence the next with _pullum anethatum_, which is not
correct, as the following recipe contains no dill.
[236] ANOTHER CHICKEN
_ALITER PULLUS_ [1]
A LITTLE HONEY IS MIXED WITH BROTH; THE COOKED [parboiled] CHICKEN IS
CLEANED [skin taken off, sinews, etc., removed] THE CARCASS DRIED WITH
A TOWEL, QUARTERED, THE PIECES IMMERSED IN BROTH [2] SO THAT THE
SAVOUR PENETRATES THOROUGHLY. FRY THE PIECES [in the pan] POUR OVER
THEIR OWN GRAVY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE.
[1] Hum., List. cf. Note 2 to {Rx} No. 235.
[2] Marinated; but the nature of this marinade is not
quite clear; a spicy marinade of wine and herbs and
spices would be appropriate for certain game birds, but
chicken ordinarily requires no marinade except some oil
before frying. It is possible that Apicius left the
cooked chicken in the broth to prevent it from drying
out, which is good.
[237] CHICKEN PARTHIAN STYLE
_PULLUM PARTHICUM_ [1]
DRESS THE CHICKEN CAREFULLY [2] AND QUARTER IT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE
AND A LITTLE CARRAWAY [3] MOISTENED WITH BROTH, AND ADD WINE TO TASTE.
[After frying] PLACE THE CHICKEN IN AN EARTHEN DISH [4] POUR THE
SEASONING OVER IT, ADD LASER AND WINE [5] LET IT ASSIMILATE WITH THE
SEASONING AND BRAISE THE CHICKEN TO A POINT. WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH
PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Lister is of the opinion that the _pullus Parthicus_
is a kind of chicken that came originally from Asia,
Parthia being a country of Asia, the present Persia or
northern India, a chicken of small size with feathers on
its feet, i.e., a bantam.
[2] Pluck, singe, empty, wash, trim. The texts: _a
navi_. Hum. _hoc est, à parte posteriore ventris, qui ut
navis cavus & figuræ ejus non dissimile est_. Dann.
takes this literally, but _navo_ (_navus_) here simply
means "to perform diligently."
[3] Tor. _casei modicum_; List. _carei_--more likely
than cheese.
[4] _Cumana_--an earthenware casserole, excellent for
that purpose.
[5] G.-V. _laser [et] vivum_.
[238] CHICKEN SOUR
_PULLUM OXYZOMUM_
A GOOD-SIZED GLASS OF OIL, A SMALLER GLASS OF BROTH, AND THE SMALLEST
MEASURE OF VINEGAR, 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, PARSLEY AND A BUNCH OF
LEEKS.
G.-V. _[laseris] satis modice_.
These directions are very vague. If the raw chicken is
quartered, fried in the oil, and then braised in the
broth with a dash of vinegar, the bunch of leeks and
parsley, seasoned with pepper and a little salt, we have
a dish gastronomically correct. The leeks may be served
as a garnish, the gravy, properly reduced and strained
over the chicken which like in the previous formula is
served in a casserole.
[239] GUINEA HEN
_PULLUM NUMIDICUM_
PREPARE [1] THE CHICKEN [as usual; par-] BOIL IT; CLEAN IT [2]
SEASONED WITH LASER AND PEPPER, AND FRY [in the pan; next] CRUSH
PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, RUE, FIG DATES AND NUTS,
MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, HONEY, BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE [3] WHEN BOILING
THICKEN WITH ROUX [strain] POUR OVER THE CHICKEN, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER
AND SERVE.
[1] _Curas._
[2] Remove skin, tissues, bones, etc., cut in pieces
and marinate in the pickle.
[3] Immerse the chicken pieces in this sauce and braise
them to a point.
[240] CHICKEN WITH LASER
_PULLUM LASERATUM_
DRESS THE CHICKEN CAREFULLY [1] CLEAN, GARNISH [2] AND PLACE IN AN
EARTHEN CASSEROLE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER MOISTENED WITH WINE [3]
ADD BROTH AND WINE TO TASTE, AND PUT THIS ON THE FIRE; WHEN DONE SERVE
WITH PEPPER SPRINKLED OVER.
[1] _a navi._ cf. Note 2 to {Rx} No. 237.
[2] G.-V. _lavabis_, _ornabis_, with vegetables, etc.
[3] G.-V. _laser vivum_.
[241] ROAST CHICKEN
_PULLUM PAROPTUM_
A LITTLE LASER, 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, A GLASS OF OIL, A GLASS OF
BROTH, AND A LITTLE PARSLEY.
[1] _Paropsis_, _parapsis_, from the Greek, a platter,
dish.
A most incomplete formula. It does not state whether the
ingredients are to be added to the sauce or the
dressing. We have an idea that the chicken is pickled in
this solution before roasting and that the pickle is
used in making the gravy.
[242] BOILED CHICKEN IN ITS OWN BROTH
_PULLUM ELIXUM EX IURE SUO_
CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, A LITTLE THYME, FENNEL SEED, MINT, RUE, LASER
ROOT, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIG DATES [1] WORK WELL AND MAKE IT
SAVORY WITH HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE: THE BOILED CHICKEN
PROPERLY CLEANED AND DRIED [with the towel] IS MASKED WITH THIS SAUCE
[2].
[1] Goll. cloves--_cariophyllus_; the originals have
_caryotam_ and _careotam_.
[2] Apparently another cold sauce of the vinaigrette
type similar to {Rx} No. 235.
[243] CHICKEN AND PUMPKIN
_PULLUM ELIXUM CUM CUCURBITIS ELIXIS_
TO THE ABOVE DESCRIBED DRESSING ADD MUSTARD, POUR OVER [1] AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _Perfundes_; Tor. _piper fundes_.
The pumpkin, not mentioned here, is likewise served cold
boiled, seasoned with the same dressing. It is perhaps
used for stuffing the chicken and cooked simultaneously
with the same.
[244] CHICKEN AND DASHEENS [1]
_PULLUM ELIXUM CUM COLOCASIIS ELIXIS_
THE ABOVE SAUCE IS ALSO USED FOR THIS DISH. STUFF THE CHICKEN WITH
[peeled] DASHEENS AND [stoned] GREEN OLIVES, THOUGH NOT TOO MUCH SO
THAT THE DRESSING MAY HAVE ROOM FOR EXPANSION, TO PREVENT BURSTING
WHILE THE CHICKEN IS BEING COOKED IN THE POT. HOLD IT DOWN WITH A
SMALL BASKET, LIFT IT UP FREQUENTLY [2] AND HANDLE CAREFULLY SO THAT
THE CHICKEN DOES NOT BURST [3].
[1] Dasheens are the equivalent of the ancient
colocasium; at least they are very close relatives. Cf.
Notes to {Rx} Nos. 74, 216, 244, 322.
[2] For inspection. G.-V. _levas_; Tor. _lavabis_, for
which there is no reason.
[3] Dann. and Goll., not knowing the colocasium or
dasheen have entirely erroneous versions of this
formula. The dasheen is well adapted for the stuffing of
fowl. Ordinarily the dasheen is boiled or steamed,
mashed, seasoned and then stuffed inside of a raw
chicken which is then roasted. Being very starchy, the
dasheen readily absorbs the fats and juices of the
roast, making a delicious dressing, akin in taste to a
combined potato and chestnut purée.
As the above chicken is cooked in _bouillon_ or water,
the dasheen may be used in a raw state for filling. We
have tried this method. Instead of confining the chicken
in a basket, we have tied it in a napkin and boiled
slowly until done. Serve cold, with the above dressing.
[245] CHICKEN À LA VARUS [1]
_PULLUS VARDANUS_
COOK THE CHICKEN IN THIS STOCK: BROTH, OIL, WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEKS,
CORIANDER, SATURY; WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, NUTS WITH 2 GLASSES OF
WATER [2] AND THE JUICE OF THE CHICKEN. RETIRE THE BUNCHES OF GREENS,
ADD MILK TO TASTE. THE THINGS CRUSHED IN THE MORTAR ADD TO THE CHICKEN
AND COOK IT TOGETHER: THICKEN THE SAUCE WITH BEATEN WHITES OF EGG [3]
AND POUR THE SAUCE OVER THE CHICKEN. THIS IS CALLED "WHITE SAUCE."
[1] G.-V. _Vardanus_; Tor. _Vardamus_; Hum. _Vardanus
legendum, puto, Varianus, portentuosæ luxuriæ
Imperator_. Hum. thinks the dish is dedicated to emperor
Varianus (?) The word may also be the adjective of
Varus, Quintilius V., commander of colonial armies and
glutton, under Augustus. Varus committed suicide after
his defeat in the Teutoburg Forest by the Germans.
[2] G.-V. broth, own stock--_ius de suo sibi_.
[3] Strain, avoid ebullition after the eggs have been
added. Most unusual _liaison_; usually the yolks are
used for this purpose. The whites are consistent with
the name of the sauce.
[246] CHICKEN À LA FRONTO [1]
_PULLUM FRONTONIANUM_
A HALF-COOKED CHICKEN MARINADED IN A PICKLE OF BROTH, MIXED WITH OIL,
TO WHICH IS ADDED A BUNCH OF DILL, LEEKS, SATURY AND GREEN CORIANDER.
FINISH IT IN THIS BROTH. WHEN DONE, TAKE THE CHICKEN OUT [2] DRESS IT
NICELY ON A DISH, POUR OVER THE [sauce, colored with] REDUCED MUST,
SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Named for a Roman by the name of Fronto. There is a
sucking pig à la Fronto, too. Cf. {Rx} No. 374. M.
Cornelius Fronto was orator and author during the reign
of Emperor Hadrian. According to Dann. a certain
Frontone under Emperor Severus.
[2] List., G.-V. _levabis_; Tor. _lavabis_, for which
there is little or no occasion. He may mean to clean,
i.e. remove skin, tissues, sinews, small bones, etc.
[247] CREAMED CHICKEN WITH PASTE [1]
_PULLUS TRACTOGALATUS_ [2]
COOK THE CHICKEN [as follows, in] BROTH, OIL, WITH WINE ADDED, TO
WHICH ADD A BUNCH OF CORIANDER AND [green] ONIONS. WHEN DONE TAKE IT
OUT [3] [strain and save] THE BROTH, AND PUT IT IN A NEW SAUCE PAN,
ADD MILK AND A LITTLE SALT, HONEY AND A PINT [4] OF WATER, THAT IS, A
THIRD PART: PLACE IT BACK ON A SLOW FIRE TO SIMMER. FINALLY BREAK [the
paste, [1]] PUT IT LITTLE BY LITTLE INTO [the boiling broth] STIRRING
WELL SO IT WILL NOT BURN. PUT THE CHICKEN IN, EITHER WHOLE OR IN
PIECES [5] DISH IT OUT IN A DEEP DISH. THIS COVER WITH THE FOLLOWING
SAUCE [6] PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTENED WITH HONEY AND A LITTLE
REDUCED MUST. ADD SOME OF THE [chicken] BROTH, HEAT IN A SMALL SAUCE
PAN AND WHEN IT BOILS THICKEN WITH ROUX [7] AND SERVE.
[1] Spätzle, noodles, macaroni; this dish is the ancient
"Chicken Tetrazzini." Dann. Chicken pie or patty.
[2] _tractum_ and _gala_, prepared with paste and milk.
Cf. _tractomelitus_, from _tractum_ and _meli_, paste
and honey.
[3] Cf. Note 2 to {Rx} Nos. 244 and 246.
[4] List. _minimum_; Tor. _heminam_; Sch. _eminam_. See
Measures. The noodle paste should be cooked separately
in the water.
[5] List. _vel carptum_, which is correct. Tor. _vel
careotam_, out of place here.
[6] This sauce seems to be superfluous. Very likely it
is a separate formula for a sauce of some kind.
[7] Seems superfluous, too. The noodle paste in the
chicken gravy makes it sufficiently thick.
[248] STUFFED CHICKEN [OR PIG]
_PULLUS FARSILIS_ [1]
EMPTY THE CHICKEN THROUGH THE APERTURE OF THE NECK SO THAT NONE OF THE
ENTRAILS REMAIN. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GINGER, CUT MEAT [2] COOKED
SPELT, BESIDES CRUSH BRAINS COOKED IN THE [chicken] BROTH, BREAK EGGS
AND MIX ALL TOGETHER IN ORDER TO MAKE A SOLID DRESSING; ADD BROTH TO
TASTE AND A LITTLE OIL, WHOLE PEPPER, PLENTY OF NUTS. WITH THIS
DRESSING STUFF EITHER A CHICKEN OR A SUCKLING PIG, LEAVING ENOUGH ROOM
FOR EXPANSION [3].
[1] Tor. _fusilis_.
[2] Preferably raw pork or veal.
[3] A most sumptuous dressing; it compares favorably
with our popular stale bread pap usually called "chicken
dressing."
[249] STUFFED CAPON LIKEWISE
_SIMILITER IN CAPO FACIES_ [1]
THE CAPON IS STUFFED IN A SIMILAR WAY BUT IS COOKED WITH ALL THE BONES
REMOVED [2].
[1] Sch. _in capso_. May be interpreted thus: Cooked in
an envelope of caul or linen, in which case it would
correspond to our modern galantine of chicken.
[2] Tor. _ossibus eiectis_; Hum. _omnibus e._; i.e. all
the entrails, etc., which is not correct. The bones must
be removed from the capon in this case.
[250] CHICKEN AND CREAM SAUCE [1]
_PULLUS LEUCOZOMUS_ [2]
TAKE A CHICKEN AND PREPARE IT AS ABOVE. EMPTY IT THROUGH THE APERTURE
OF THE NECK SO THAT NONE OF THE ENTRAILS REMAIN. TAKE [a little] WATER
[3] AND PLENTY OF SPANISH OIL, STIR, COOK TOGETHER UNTIL ALL MOISTURE
IS EVAPORATED [4] WHEN THIS IS DONE TAKE THE CHICKEN OUT, SO THAT THE
GREATEST POSSIBLE AMOUNT OF OIL REMAINS BEHIND [5] SPRINKLE WITH
PEPPER AND SERVE [6].
[1] The ancient version of Chicken à la Maryland, Wiener
Backhähndl, etc.
[2] Tor. _Leocozymus_; from the Greek _leucozomos_,
prepared with white sauce. The formula for the cream
sauce is lacking here. Cf. {Rx} No. 245.
[3] The use of water to clarify the oil which is to
serve as a deep frying fat is an ingenious idea, little
practised today. It surely saves the fat or oil,
prevents premature burning or blackening by frequent
use, and gives a better tasting _friture_. The above
recipe is a mere fragment, but even this reveals the
extraordinary knowledge of culinary principles of
Apicius who reveals himself to us as a master of
well-understood principles of good cookery that are so
often ignored today. Cf. Note 5 to {Rx} No. 497.
[4] The recipe fails to state that the chicken must be
breaded, or that the pieces of chicken be turned in
flour, etc., and fried in the oil.
[5] Another vital rule of deep fat frying not stated, or
rather stated in the language of the kitchen, namely
that the chicken must be crisp, dry, that is, not
saturated with oil, which of course every good fry cook
knows.
[6] With the cream sauce, prepared separately, spread on
the platter, with the fried chicken inside, or the sauce
in a separate dish, we have here a very close
resemblance to a very popular modern dish.
(Schuch and Danneil insert here Excerpta XXIX, XXX and
XXXI.)
END OF BOOK VI
[explicit] _TROPHETES APICII. LIBER SEXTUS_ [Tac.]
{Illustration: FRYING PAN, ROUND
Provided with a lip to pour out fluids, a convenience which many
modern pans lack. The broad flat handle is of one piece with the pan
and has a hole for suspension. On some ancient pans these handles were
hinged so as to fold over the cavity of the pan, to save room in
storing it away, particularly in a soldier's knapsack. Ntl. Mus.,
Naples, 76571; Field M. 24024.}
{Illustration: FRONTISPICE, SECOND LISTER EDITION
purporting to represent the interior of an ancient kitchen. J.
G{oe}ree, the artist and engraver, has invented it. The general
tidiness differs from contemporary Dutch kitchens and the clothing of
the cooks reminds one of Henry VIII, who issued at Eltham in 1526 this
order: "... provide and sufficiently furnish the kitchens of such
scolyons as shall not goe naked or in garments of such vilenesse as
they doe ... nor lie in the nights and dayes in the kitchens ... by
the fire-side...."--MS. No. 642, Harleian Library.}
APICIUS