_Lib. V. Osprion_ [1]
CHAP. I. PULSE, MEAL MUSH, PORRIDGE, ETC.
CHAP. II. LENTILS.
CHAP. III. PEAS.
CHAP. IV. BEANS OR PEAS IN THE POD.
CHAP. V. BARLEY BROTH.
CHAP. VI. GREEN BEANS, BAIÆAN BEANS.
CHAP. VII. FENUGREEK.
CHAP. VIII. GREEN STRING BEANS AND CHICK-PEAS.
I
MEAL MUSH, MUSH, PULSE, PAP, PORRIDGE, POLENTA
_DE PULTIBUS_ [2]
[178] JULIAN MEAL MUSH
_PULTES JULIANÆ_ [3]
JULIAN PULSES ARE COOKED THUS: SOAK WELL-CLEANED SPELT, PUT IT ON THE
FIRE; WHEN COOKED, ADD OIL. IF IT THREATENS TO BECOME THICK, CAREFULLY
THIN IT DOWN. TAKE TWO COOKED BRAINS AND HALF A POUND OF MEAT GROUND
AS FOR FORCEMEAT, CRUSH THIS WITH THE BRAINS AND PUT IN A POT. CRUSH
PEPPER, LOVAGE AND FENNEL SEED, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, A LITTLE WINE
AND PUT IT ON TOP OF THE BRAIN AND MEAT. WHEN THIS FORCEMEAT IS HEATED
SUFFICIENTLY, MIX IT WITH THE SPELT [finish boiling] TRANSFER INTO
SERVICE DISH, THINNED. THIS MUST HAVE THE CONSISTENCY OF A HEAVY JUICE
[4].
[1] List. _Osprios_; G.-V. _Ospreon_--cookery of
leguminous plants.
[2] _Puls_--formerly a simple porridge of various kinds
of cereals or legumes, eaten by the Romans before bread
came into use. _Puls_ remained in use after the
introduction of bread only as a food of the poor. It was
also used at sacrifices. The _pultes_ and _pulticulæ_
given by Apicius are illustrations of the ever-present
desire to improve--to glorify, as it were, a thing which
once was or still is of vital importance in the daily
life of humans. The _nouveaux-riches_ of the ancient and
the modern world cannot find it easy to separate
themselves from their traditions nor are they wont to
put up with their plainness, hence the fancy trimmings.
The development of the American pie is a curious analogy
in this respect. We see in this the intricate working of
human culture, its eternal strife for perfection. And
perfection is synonymous with decay. The fare of the
Carthusian monks, professed, stern vegetarians,
underwent the same tortuous evolution.
[3] Named for Didius Julianus, the emperor who was a
vegetarian. Of course, his majesty could not live on a
plain porridge, hence the Apician artistry. The _pultes_
were popular with the many professed vegetarians though
the obliging cooks mixed finely ground meat in this and
other porridges.
Our various cream soups and legume purées--those most
salubrious creations of modern cookery are no doubt
lineal descendants from the Apician _pultes_. They are
so scarce comparatively because they require all the
ingenuity and resourcefulness of a gifted cook to be
perfect.
[4] Dann. remarks that this formula is wanting in List.
Both Lister's first and second editions have it.
[179] GRUEL AND WINE
_PULTES {OE}NOCOCTI_
PORRIDGE AND WINE IS THUS MADE: [1] FLAVOR THE PULSE WELL WITH WINE
[2] AND IMMERSE IN THE JUICE DAINTY MORSELS [3].
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[2] Tor. _Oenogari_; G.-V. _Oenococti_.
[3] Tor. _cupedias_; _copadia_.
[180] SIMILAR
_SIMILAM_ [1]
OR FLAVOR COOKED SPELT WITH THE LIQUOR OF DAINTY PIECES OF PORK, OR
CAPON [2] COOKED IN WINE [3].
[1] Tac. _inulam_; Tor. _mulam_--misreading.
[2] Tor.; List. _apponis_.
[3] For practical reasons we have separated the text of
{Rx} Nos. 179 and 180 which appears as one in the texts.
[181] MILK TOAST
_PULTES TRACTOGALATÆ_ [1]
PUT A PINT OF MILK AND SOME WATER ON THE FIRE IN A NEW [clean] POT;
BREAK ROUND BREAD INTO IT [2] DRY, STIR WELL TO PREVENT BURNING; ADD
WATER AS NECESSARY [3].
[1] Tor. _pulticula tractogala_.
[2] List. _tres orbiculos tractæ_; Tor. _teres
sorbiculos tractæ_.
_Tractum_ is a piece of pastry, a round bread or roll in
this case, stale, best suited for this purpose.
[3] The text continues without interruption.
[182] HONEY PAP
_SIMILITER_
HONEY AND MEAD ARE TREATED SIMILARLY, MIXED WITH MILK, WITH THE
ADDITION OF SALT AND A LITTLE OIL.
[178-183] PULSE
_PULTES_ [1]
[1] Tor. _Alia pulticula_.
This is a verbatim repetition of {Rx} No. 178.
II
LENTILS
_LENTICULA_ [1]
[183] LENTILS AND COW-PARSNIPS
_LENTICULA EX SPONDYLIS SIVE FONDYLIS_ [2]
PUT THE LENTILS IN A CLEAN SAUCE PAN [and cook with salt]. IN THE
MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, MINT, RUE, AND FLEA-BANE,
MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, ADD HONEY AND BROTH AND REDUCED MUST, VINEGAR
TO TASTE AND PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN. THE COOKED COW-PARSNIPS CRUSH,
HEAT [mix with the lentils] WHEN THOROUGHLY COOKED, TIE, ADD GREEN
[fresh olive] OIL AND SERVE IN AN APPROPRIATE DISH [3].
[1] Tor. _De Lenticula et Castaneis_.
[2] List. again: _ex spongiolis sive fungulis_. See
notes to {Rx} Nos. 115-120 and 431.
[3] _Boletar_--a "mushroom" dish. G.-V. _in boletari_;
Tac. _insuper oleum uiridem mittis_; Tor.
_inuolutari_--unidentified.
[184] LENTILS [1] AND CHESTNUTS
_LENTICULAM DE CASTANEIS_ [2]
TAKE A NEW SAUCE PAN, PLACE THEREIN THE CHESTNUTS CAREFULLY CLEANED
[3] ADD WATER AND A LITTLE SODA AND PLACE ON THE FIRE TO BE COOKED.
THIS DONE, CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, MINT,
RUE, LASER ROOT AND FLEA-BANE MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, HONEY AND BROTH;
ADD VINEGAR TO TASTE AND POUR THIS OVER THE COOKED CHESTNUTS, ADD OIL
AND ALLOW TO BOIL. WHEN DONE CRUSH IT IN THE MORTAR [4]. TASTE TO SEE
IF SOMETHING IS MISSING AND IF SO, PUT IT IN, AND AT LAST ADD GREEN
[fresh virgin] OIL.
[1] Lentils are omitted in this formula; therefore see
the following formula.
[2] Thus G.-V.; Tor. Chestnuts.
[3] i.e. peeled and skinned. To do this easily, boil the
chestnuts with the skin, whereupon the outer brown shell
and the inner membrane are easily removed.
[4] To make a purée of the chestnuts which strain
through the colander.
[184a] ANOTHER WAY [1]
_ALITER LENTICULAM_
COOK THE LENTILS, SKIM THEM [strain] ADD LEEKS, GREEN CORIANDER; CRUSH
CORIANDER SEED, FLEA-BANE, LASER ROOT, MINT SEED AND RUE SEED
MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR; ADD HONEY, BROTH, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST TO
TASTE, THEN OIL, STIRRING [the purée] UNTIL IT IS DONE, BIND WITH
ROUX, ADD GREEN OIL, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] It is evident that {Rx} No. 184 and the above are
really one formula, the former dealing with the cooking
of the maroons, the latter describing the lentils.
Presumably the two purées are to be mixed, or to be
served as integral parts of one dish.
III
[185] PEAS
_DE PISIS_
COOK THE PEAS, WHEN SKIMMED, LAY LEEKS, CORIANDER AND CUMIN ON TOP.
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DILL AND GREEN BASILICA, WINE AND BROTH
TO TASTE, MAKE IT BOIL; WHEN DONE STIR WELL, PUT IN WHAT PERCHANCE
SHOULD BE MISSING AND SERVE [1].
[1] This reminds us of _Petits Pois à la Française_,
namely green peas (often very young ones with the pods)
cooked in broth, or _bouillon_, with shredded bacon,
lettuce, parsley, onions (or leeks, as above) fresh
mint, pepper, salt and other fresh herbs such as
chervil. Which is a very delectable way of preparing the
tender pea. Some of its refreshing green color is
sacrificed by this process, but this loss is amply
offset by the savour of the dish.
[186] PEAS [supreme style]
_PISA FARSILIS_ [1]
COOK THE PEAS WITH OIL AND A PIECE OF SOW'S BELLY [2] PUT IN A SAUCE
PAN BROTH, LEEK HEADS [the lower white part] GREEN CORIANDER AND PUT
ON THE FIRE TO BE COOKED. OF TID-BITS [3] CUT LITTLE DICE. SIMILARLY
COOK THRUSHES OR OTHER SMALL [game] BIRDS, OR TAKE SLICED CHICKEN AND
DICED BRAIN, PROPERLY COOKED. FURTHER COOK, IN THE AVAILABLE LIQUOR OR
BROTH, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE AND BACON; COOK LEEKS IN WATER; CRUSH A PINT
OF TOASTED PIGNOLIA NUTS; ALSO CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND
GINGER, DILUTE WITH THE BROTH OF PORK, TIE [4] TAKE A SQUARE BAKING
DISH SUITABLE FOR TURNING OVER WHICH OIL WELL AND LINE WITH CAUL [5]
SPRINKLE [on the bottom] A LAYER OF CRUSHED NUTS UPON WHICH PUT SOME
PEAS, FULLY COVERING THE BOTTOM OF THE SQUASH DISH; ON TOP OF THIS
ARRANGE SLICES OF THE BACON [6] LEEKS AND SLICED LUCANIAN SAUSAGE;
AGAIN COVER WITH A LAYER OF PEAS AND ALTERNATE ALL THE REST OF THE
AVAILABLE EDIBLES IN THE MANNER DESCRIBED UNTIL THE DISH IS FILLED,
CONCLUDING AT LAST WITH A LAYER OF PEAS, UTILIZING EVERYTHING. BAKE
THIS DISH IN THE OVEN, OR PUT IT INTO A SLOW FIRE [covering it with
live coal] SO THAT IT MAY BE BAKED THOROUGHLY. [Next make a sauce of
the following] PUT YOLKS OF HARD BOILED EGGS IN THE MORTAR WITH WHITE
PEPPER, NUTS, HONEY, WHITE WINE AND A LITTLE BROTH; MIX AND PUT IT
INTO A SAUCE PAN TO BE COOKED; WHEN [the sauce is] DONE, TURN OUT THE
PEAS INTO A LARGE [silver dish] AND MASK THEM WITH THIS SAUCE WHICH IS
CALLED WHITE SAUCE [7].
[1] List. _Pisa farsilis_; Tor. _p. farsilia_; Tac.,
G.-V. _pisam farsilem_--same as _fartilis_, from
_farcio_--fattened, stuffed, or crammed, or as full as
it can hold, metaphorically perhaps "supreme style,"
"most sumptuous," etc.
[2] This meat being fat enough, the oil seems
superfluous.
[3] _isicia_, formerly called Greek _hysitia_--any fine
forcemeats, cut into or cooked in tiny dumplings.
[4] _Liaison_ wanting in Tor.
[5] Tor. makes no mention of the square dish and its
caul lining. Caul is the abdominal membrane.
[6] _petasonis pulpas_; Dann. ham, which is not quite
correct. The _petaso_ is the shoulder part of pork,
either cured or fresh, generally fresh. The cooked pork
shoulder here is cut into small pieces. Nothing is said
about the utilization of the sow's belly mentioned at
the opening of the formula. We assume that the _petaso_
can take its place in the dish.
[7] There is nothing just like this dish in the history
of gastronomy, considering both the comparatively cheap
materials and the refinement of the gastronomic idea
which it embodies. The _chartreuses_ of Carême are the
nearest thing to it. Lister waxes enthusiastic about it.
[187] INDIAN PEAS
_PISAM INDICAM_ [1]
COOK PEAS; WHEN SKIMMED, PUT IN THE SAUCE PAN FINELY CHOPPED LEEKS AND
CORIANDER TO BE COOKED [with the peas]. TAKE SMALL CUTTLE FISH, MOST
DESIRABLE BECAUSE OF THE BLACK LIQUOR AND COOK THEM ALSO. ADD OIL,
BROTH AND WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEK AND [green] CORIANDER AND MAKE IT
BOIL. WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, A LITTLE WILD CUMIN
[2] MOISTEN WITH THE JUICE [of the peas] ADD WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO
TASTE; MINCE THE FISH VERY FINE, INCORPORATE IT WITH THE PEAS, AND
SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3].
[1] Tor. _pisum Indicum_.
[2] Tor., Tac. _casei modicum_; other texts, _carei_.
[3] The texts continues without interruption to the next
formula.
[188] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER_
COOK THE PEAS, WORK WELL [to make a purée] PLACE IN THE COLD, STIRRING
UNTIL THEY HAVE COOLED OFF. FINELY CHOP ONIONS AND THE WHITES OF HARD
BOILED EGGS, SEASON WITH SALT AND A LITTLE VINEGAR; THE YOLKS PRESS
THROUGH A COLANDER INTO AN ENTRÉE DISH, SEASON WITH FRESH OIL AND
SERVE [1].
[1] The texts fail to state that the whites, yolks,
onions, vinegar and oil must eventually be combined into
a dressing very similar to our own modern _vinaigrette_;
for decorative and other gastronomic reasons the
separate treatment of the whites and the yolks is both
ingenious and excellent, and is very often practised in
good kitchens today.
[189] PEAS OR BEANS À LA VITELLIUS
_PISAM VITELLIANAM SIVE FABAM_ [1]
PEAS OR BEANS WITH YOLKS ARE MADE THUS: [2] COOK THE PEAS, SMOOTHEN
[3] THEM; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GINGER, AND ON THE CONDIMENTS PUT HARD
BOILED YOLKS, 3 OUNCES OF HONEY, ALSO BROTH, WINE AND VINEGAR; [mix
and] PLACE ALL IN A SAUCE PAN; THE FINELY CHOPPED CONDIMENTS WITH OIL
ADDED, PUT ON THE STOVE TO BE COOKED; WITH THIS FLAVOR THE PEAS WHICH
MUST BE SMOOTH; AND IF THEY BE TOO HARSH [in taste] ADD HONEY AND
SERVE [4].
[1] List. _Pisa Vitelliana_--named for Vitellius, ninth
Roman emperor, notorious glutton, according to Hum. who
says that V. invented this dish: _ab auctore Vitellio
Imperatore luxui deditissimo_. But Tor. differs; his
_pisum uitellinum_ stands for peas with
yolks--_vitellum_--yolk, (also calf) dim. _vitellinum_;
Tac. _v----am_. Cf. {Rx} No. 193.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] _lias_--to make a purée by crushing and straining.
Tor. _lævigabis_, from _levigo_--meaning the same.
[4] If Vitellius never invented any other dish than this
one, his gluttony was overrated. As a gastronomer he may
be safely relegated to the vast multitude of ill-advised
people whose craving for carbohydrates (which is perhaps
pathological) causes them to accumulate a surplus of
fat. This was fatal to Vitellius and his faithful court
baker who is said to have stuck to his master to the
last. The poor emperor's _embonpoint_ proved cumbersome
when he fled the infuriated mob. Had he been leaner he
might have effected a "getaway." He was dragged through
the streets and murdered, Dec. 21 or 22, A.D. 69.
[190] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER PISAM SIVE FABAM_
WHEN [the peas or beans are] SKIMMED MIX BROTH, HONEY, MUST, CUMIN,
RUE, CELERY SEED, OIL AND WINE, STIR [1]. SERVE WITH CRUSHED PEPPER
AND SAUSAGE [2].
[1] G.-V. _tudiclabis_; Tor. _misceas_.
[2] _cum isiciis_--bits of forcemeat.
[191] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER PISAM SIVE FABAM_
WHEN [the peas or beans are] SKIMMED FLAVOR THEM WITH CRUSHED PERSIAN
[1] LASER, BROTH AND MUST; POUR A LITTLE OIL OVER AND SERVE.
[1] Parthian, from _Parthia_, a country of Asia.
[192] A TEMPTING DISH OF PEAS
_PISAM ADULTERAM _[1]_ VERSATILEM_
THIS ADROIT, TEMPTING DISH OF PEAS IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER: [2]
COOK PEAS; BRAINS OR SMALL BIRDS, OR BONED THRUSHES, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE,
CHICKEN LIVERS AND GIBLETS--ALL OF WHICH ARE PUT IN A SAUCE PAN;
BROTH, OIL AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS, GREEN CORIANDER FINELY CHOPPED, COOK
WITH THE BRAINS; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND BROTH [3].
[1] Sch., Dann. crafty, i.e. not genuine. _Adulteram_
cannot here be used in its most accepted sense, because
the peas are genuine, and no attempt is made to
adulterate or "fake" this dish in any way, shape or
form. Never before have we applied the term "seductive"
to any dish, but this is just what _adultera_ means.
"Tempting" of course is quite common.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] This formula is incomplete or mutilated, the last
sentence breaks off in the middle--very likely a
description of the sauce or condiments belonging to the
peas.
Each and every component of this (really tempting) dish
must be cooked separately; they are then composed in a
dish, nicely arranged, with the peas in the center,
surrounded by the several morsels, with an appropriate
gravy made from the natural liquor or juices of the
component parts poured over the dish.
[193] PEAS À LA VITELLIUS
_PISAM SIVE FABAM VITELLIANAM_ [1]
PEAS OR BEANS IN THE STYLE OF VITELLIUS PREPARE THUS: [2] [The peas or
beans] ARE COOKED, WHEN CAREFULLY SKIMMED, ADD LEEKS, CORIANDER AND
MALLOW FLOWERS [3]: WHEN DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, AND
FENNEL SEED MOISTENED WITH BROTH [and put it] INTO A SAUCE PAN WITH
WINE [4], ADDING OIL, HEAT THOROUGHLY AND WHEN BOILING STIR WELL; PUT
GREEN OIL ON TOP AND SERVE.
[1] Named for the inventor, Emperor Vitellius; cf. notes
to {Rx} No. 189. Tor. _Vitellianum_.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Wanting in Dann.
[4] Tor.
IV
[194] BEANS IN THE POD
_CONCHICLA_ [1]
COOK THE BEANS [2]; MEANWHILE CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN
CORIANDER, MOISTENED WITH BROTH AND WINE, AND ADD [more] BROTH TO
TASTE, PUT INTO THE SAUCE PAN [with the beans] ADDING OIL; HEAT ON A
SLOW FIRE AND SERVE.
[1] Tor. _Concicla_--_conchis_--_conchicula_--young,
immature beans, string or wax, boiled in the shell or
pod.
[2] _conchiclam cum faba_--young string beans and (dry,
white or kidney) beans, cooked separately of course and
mixed when done, ready for service.
[195] PEAS IN THE POD APICIAN STYLE
_CONCHICLAM APICIANAM_
FOR PEAS IN THE POD [1] APICIAN STYLE TAKE: [2] A CLEAN EARTHEN POT IN
WHICH TO COOK THE PEAS; TO THE PEAS ADD FINELY CUT LUCANIAN SAUSAGE,
LITTLE PORK CAKES [3], PIECES OF MEAT [4] AND PORK SHOULDER [5]. CRUSH
PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, DILL, DRY ONIONS [6] GREEN CORIANDER
MOISTENED WITH BROTH, WINE, AND ADD [more] BROTH TO TASTE; UNITE THIS
WITH THE PEAS IN THE EARTHEN POT TO WHICH ADD OIL IN SUFFICIENT
QUANTITY TO BE ABSORBED BY THE PEAS; FINISH ON A SLOW FIRE TO GIVE IT
LIVE HEAT AND SERVE.
[1] Peas in the pod are likewise called _conchicla_;
hence perhaps any legumes cooked in the shells.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] _isiciola porcina._
[4] _pulpas_--in this case no specific meat.
[5] _petaso_; Dann. pieces of ham
[6] _cepam siccam_--ordinary dry onions, not shallots.
[196] SIMPLE DISH OF PEAS IN THE POD
_CONCHICLA DE PISA SIMPLICI_ [1]
COOK THE PEAS [in the pods] WHEN SKIMMED ADD A BUNCH [2] OF LEEKS AND
GREEN CORIANDER. WHILE BEING COOKED CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, AND
[the above] BUNCH [of herbs] [3] MOISTEN WITH ITS OWN JUICE, WINE [4]
ENOUGH TO SUIT YOUR TASTE, THEN ADD OIL AND FINISH ON A SLOW FIRE [5].
[1] Thus G.-V.; Tor. _Concicla Pisorum_.
[2] Sch. _feniculum_ instead of _fasciculum_.
[3] G.-V. _de suo sibi fricabis_; Tor. _seorsim f._
[4] G.-V. wine wanting in Tor.
[5] Brandt, referring to {Rx} No. 154, suggests that the
things crushed in a mortar be placed on top of the peas.
[197] PEAS IN THE POD À LA COMMODUS [1]
_CONCHICLA COMMODIANA_
MAKE PEAS COMMODIAN STYLE THUS: [2] COOK THE PEAS, WHEN SKIMMED, CRUSH
PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, SHALLOTS MOISTENED WITH BROTH; ADD WINE AND
BROTH TO TASTE: STIR IN A SAUCE PAN [with the peas] TO COMBINE; FOR
EACH SEXTARIUS OF PEAS BEAT 4 EGGS, AND COMBINE THEM WITH THE PEAS,
PLACE ON THE FIRE TO THICKEN [avoiding ebullition] AND SERVE.
[1] Hum. Named for Commodus, the emperor; List. for
Commodus Antonius, son of the philosopher Marcus.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[198] ANOTHER STYLE
_ALITER CONCHICLAM SIC FACIES_ [1]
CUT [raw] CHICKEN INTO SMALL PIECES, ADD BROTH, OIL AND WINE, AND STEW
IT. CHOP ONIONS AND CORIANDER FINE AND ADD BRAINS [calf's or pork,
parboiled] THE SKIN AND NERVES REMOVED, TO THE CHICKEN. WHEN THIS IS
COOKED TAKE [the chicken] OUT AND BONE IT. THE PEAS COOK SEPARATELY,
WITHOUT SEASONING, ONLY USING CHOPPED ONIONS AND CORIANDER AND THE
BROTH OF THE CHICKEN; STRAIN [part of] THE PEAS AND ARRANGE THEM
ALTERNATELY [in a dish with the pieces of chicken, brains and the
unstrained peas] THEN CRUSH PEPPER AND CUMIN, MOISTENED WITH CHICKEN
BROTH. IN THE MORTAR BEAT 2 EGGS WITH BROTH TO TASTE, POUR THIS OVER
THE CHICKEN AND PEAS, FINISH ON A SLOW FIRE [1], DISH OUT ON A HEAP OF
PEAS, GARNISH WITH PINE NUTS AND SERVE.
[1] By congealing in a mould, which is unmoulded on a
heap of peas. Danneil directs to stuff the whole chicken
with the pea preparation, brains, etc., and to poach it
in a square pan.
[199] STUFFED CHICKEN OR SUCKLING PIG
_CONCHICLATUS PULLUS VEL PORCELLUS_ [1]
BONE [either] CHICKEN [or suckling pig] FROM THE CHICKEN REMOVE THE
BREAST BONE AND THE [upper joint bones of the] LEGS; HOLD IT TOGETHER
BY MEANS OF WOODEN SKEWERS, AND MEANWHILE [2] PREPARE [the following
dressing in this manner]: ALTERNATE [inside of the chicken or pig]
PEAS WITH THE PODS [washed and cooked], BRAINS, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, ETC.
NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND GINGER, MOISTENED WITH BROTH,
RAISIN WINE AND WINE TO TASTE, MAKE IT BOIL, WHEN DONE, USE IT
MODERATELY FOR SEASONING AND ALTERNATELY WITH THE OTHER DRESSING; WRAP
[the chicken, or pig] IN CAUL, PLACE IT IN A BAKING DISH AND PUT IT IN
THE OVEN TO BE COOKED SLOWLY, AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V., Tor. _Concicla farsilis_.
[2] Tor. here splits the formula, using the above title.
V
GRUELS
_TISANAM ET ALICAM_ [1]
[200] BARLEY BROTH
_ALICAM VEL SUCCUM TISANÆ SIC FACIES_ [2]
CRUSH WELL WASHED BARLEY, SOAKED THE DAY BEFORE, PLACE ON THE FIRE TO
BE COOKED. WHEN HOT ADD PLENTY OIL, A SMALL BUNCH OF DILL, DRY ONION,
SATURY AND COLOCASIUM, TO BE COOKED TOGETHER BECAUSE THIS GIVES A
BETTER JUICE; ADD GREEN CORIANDER AND A LITTLE SALT; BRING IT TO A
BOILING POINT. WHEN WELL HEATED TAKE OUT THE BUNCH [dill] AND TRANSFER
THE BARLEY INTO ANOTHER VESSEL TO AVOID BURNING ON THE BOTTOM OF THE
POT; THIN IT OUT [with water, broth, milk] AND STRAIN INTO A POT,
COVERING THE TIPS OF THE COLOCASIA [2]. NEXT CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, A
LITTLE DRY FLEA-BANE, CUMIN AND SYLPHIUM, STIR WELL, ADD VINEGAR,
REDUCED MUST AND BROTH; PUT IT BACK IN THE POT; THE REMAINING
COLOCASIA FINISH ON A GENTLE FIRE.
[1] A repetition of Book IV, Chap. IV, _Tisanam vel
sucum_, our {Rx} No. 172
[2] Tor. still has difficulties with the vegetable
called by Lister _colocasium_. He reads here _colonium_
and _colosium_. G.-V. _col{oe}fium_. Cf. Note 1 to {Rx}
No. 172 and Note to Nos. 74, 216, 244 and 322.
[201] ANOTHER GRUEL
_ALITER TISANAM_ [1]
SOAK CHICK-PEAS, LENTILS AND PEAS, CRUSH BARLEY AND COOK WITH THE
LEGUMES, WHEN WELL COOKED ADD PLENTY OF OIL. NOW CUT GREENS, LEEKS,
CORIANDER, DILL, FENNEL, BEETS, MALLOWS, CABBAGE STRUNKS, ALL SOFT AND
GREEN AND VERY FINELY CUT, AND PUT IN A POT. THE CABBAGE COOK
[separately; also] CRUSH FENNEL SEED, PLENTY OF IT, ORIGANY, SILPHIUM,
AND LOVAGE, AND WHEN GROUND, ADD BROTH TO TASTE, POUR THIS OVER THE
PORRIDGE, STIR, AND USE SOME FINELY CHOPPED CABBAGE STEMS TO SPRINKLE
ON TOP.
[1] A repetition of {Rx} No. 173.
VI
GREEN BEANS
_FABACIÆ VIRIDES ET BAIANÆ_ [1]
[202] GREEN BEANS
_FABACIÆ VIRIDES_
GREEN BEANS ARE COOKED IN BROTH, WITH OIL, GREEN CORIANDER, CUMIN AND
CHOPPED LEEKS, AND SERVED.
[1] Beans grown in Baiæ, also called _bajanas_ or
_bacanas_; beans without skin or pods.
[203] BEANS SAUTÉ
_ALITER: FABACIÆ FRICTÆ_
FRIED BEANS ARE SERVED IN BROTH.
[204] MUSTARD BEANS
_ALITER: FABACIÆ EX SINAPI_
[The beans previously cooked are seasoned with] CRUSHED MUSTARD SEED,
HONEY, NUTS, RUE, CUMIN, AND SERVED WITH VINEGAR.
[205] BAIÆAN BEANS
_BAIANAS_ [1]
COOKED BEANS FROM BAIÆ ARE CUT FINE [and finished with] RUE, GREEN
CELERY, LEEKS, VINEGAR [2] A LITTLE MUST OR RAISIN WINE AND SERVED
[3].
[1] Named for Baiæ, a town of Campania, noted for its
warm baths; a favorite resort of the Romans.
[2] Wanting in Tor.
[3] These apparently outlandish ways of cooking beans
compel us to draw a modern parallel in a cookery book,
specializing in Jewish dishes. To prove that Apicius is
not dead "by a long shot," we shall quote from Wolf,
Rebekka: Kochbuch für Israelitische Frauen, Frankfurt,
1896, 11th edition. As a matter of fact, Rebekka Wolf is
outdoing Apicius in strangeness--a case of _Apicium in
ipso Apicio_, as Lister sarcastically remarks of
Torinus.
Rebekka Wolf: {Rx} No. 211--wash and boil the young
beans in fat _bouillon_ (Apicius: _oleum et liquamen_)
adding a handful of chopped pepperwort (A.: _piper,
ligusticum_) and later chopped parsley (A.:
_petroselinum_) some sugar (A.: _mel pavo_--little
honey) and pepper. Beans later in the season are cooked
with potatoes. The young beans are tied with flour
dissolved in water, or with roux.
_Id. ibid._, {Rx} No. 212, Beans Sweet-Sour. Boil in
water, fat, salt, add vinegar, sugar or syrup, "English
aromatics" and spices, lemon peel, and a little pepper;
bind with roux.
_Id. ibid._, {Rx} No. 213, Cut Pickled Beans
(_Schneidebohnen_) prepare as {Rx} No. 212, but if you
would have them more delicious, take instead of the roux
grated chocolate, sugar, cinnamon, lemon peel and lemon
juice, and some claret. If not sour enough, add vinegar,
but right here you must add more fat; you may lay on top
of this dish a bouquet of sliced apples.
_Id. ibid._, {Rx} No. 214, Beans and Pears. Take cut and
pickled beans and prepare as above. To this add peeled
fresh pears, cut into quarters; then sugar, lemon peel
cut thin, cinnamon, "English" mixed spices, and at last
the roux, thinned with broth. This dish must be sweet
and very fat.
As for exotic combinations, Apicius surely survives
here, is even surpassed by this Jewish cookery book
where, no doubt, very ancient traditions have been
stored away.
VII
[206] THE HERB FENUGREEK
_F{OE}NUM GRÆCUM_ [1]
FENUGREEK [is prepared] IN BROTH, OIL AND WINE.
[1] Tor. or _fenum_; G.-V. _Fænum_.
VIII
[207] GREEN STRING BEANS AND CHICK-PEAS
_PHASEOLI _[1]_ VIRIDES ET CICER_
ARE SERVED WITH SALT, CUMIN, OIL, AND A LITTLE PURE WINE.
[1] Tor. _Faseolus_, the bean with a long, sabre-like
pod; a phasel, kidney bean, when ripened.
[208] ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER FASEOLUS ET CICER_
[Beans or chick-peas] ARE COOKED IN A WINE SAUCE AND SEASONED WITH
PEPPER [1].
[1] Dann. and Goll.: "roasted" beans.
[209] BOILED, SUMPTUOUSLY
_ET ELIXATI, SUMPTO_ [1]
AND COOK THE BEANS, IN A RICH MANNER, REMOVE THE SEEDS AND SERVE [as a
Salad [2]], WITH HARD EGGS, GREEN FENNEL, PEPPER, BROTH, A LITTLE
REDUCED WINE AND A LITTLE SALT, OR SERVE THEM IN SIMPLER WAYS, AS YOU
MAY SEE FIT.
[1] The original continues with the preceding formula.
[2] For a salad we would add finely chopped onion,
pepper, and some lemon juice.
The purpose of removing the seeds is obscure. G.-V.
reads _semine cum ovis_; Tac. _semie_; Hum. _s. cum
lobis_. The passage may mean to sprinkle (sow) with hard
boiled (and finely chopped) eggs, which is often done on
a salad and other dishes.
END OF BOOK V
_EXPLICIT APICII OSPRION LIBER QUINTUS_ [Tac.]
{Illustration: ADJUSTABLE TABLE
Polychrome marble in bronze frame. Four elaborately designed bronze
legs, braced and hinged, so that the table may be raised or lowered.
The legs end in claw feet resting on a molded base. Above they are
encircled with leaves, from which emerge young satyrs, each holding a
rabbit under the left arm. The legs below the acanthus leaves are
ornamented with elaborate floral patterns, inlaid, with other inlaid
patterns on the connecting braces and around the frame of the marble
top. Bronze and marble tables that could be folded and taken down
after banquets were used by the Babylonians centuries before this
table was designed in Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 72994; Field M.
24290.}
APICIUS