_Lib. IV. Pandecter_ [1]
CHAP. I. BOILED DINNERS.
CHAP. II. DISHES OF FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUITS, AND SO FORTH.
CHAP. III. FINELY MINCED DISHES, OR _ISICIA_.
CHAP. IV. PORRIDGE, GRUEL.
CHAP. V. APPETIZING DISHES.
I
[125] BOILED DINNER
_SALACATTABIA_ [2]
PEPPER, FRESH MINT, CELERY, DRY PENNYROYAL, CHEESE [3], PIGNOLIA NUTS,
HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF EGG, FRESH WATER, SOAKED BREAD AND THE
LIQUID PRESSED OUT, COW'S CHEESE AND CUCUMBERS ARE ARRANGED IN A DISH,
ALTERNATELY, WITH THE NUTS; [also add] FINELY CHOPPED CAPERS [4],
CHICKEN LIVERS [5]; COVER COMPLETELY WITH [a lukewarm, congealing]
BROTH, PLACE ON ICE [and when congealed unmould and] SERVE UP [6].
[1] Read: _Pandectes_--embracing the whole science.
[2] Read: _Salacaccabia_--from _salsa_ and
_caccabus_--salt meat boiled in the pot. Sch. _Sala
cottabia_; G.-V. _cattabia_.
[3] Sch. _casiam_ instead of _caseum_.
[4] Sch. _Copadiis porcinis_--small bits of pork; List.
_cepas aridas puto_--"shallots, I believe"; Lan.
_capparis_; Vat., G.-V. _id._
[5] Dann. Chicken meat.
[6] This dish if pork were added (cf. Sch. in note 4
above) would resemble our modern "headcheese"; the
presence of cheese in this formula and in our word
"headcheese" is perhaps not accidental; the cheese has
been eliminated in the course of time from dishes of
this sort while the name has remained with us. "Cheese"
also appears in the German equivalent for
custard--_Eierkäse_.
[126] APICIAN JELLY
_SALACATTABIA APICIANA_
PUT IN THE MORTAR CELERY SEED, DRY PENNYROYAL, DRY MINT, GINGER, FRESH
CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL AND WINE; CRUSH IT
TOGETHER [in order to make a dressing of it]. [Now] PLACE 3 PIECES OF
PICENTIAN BREAD IN A MOULD, INTERLINED WITH PIECES OF [cooked]
CHICKEN, [cooked] SWEETBREADS OF CALF OR LAMB, CHEESE [1], PIGNOLIA
NUTS, CUCUMBERS [pickles] FINELY CHOPPED DRY ONIONS [shallots]
COVERING THE WHOLE WITH [jellified] BROTH. BURY THE MOULD IN SNOW UP
TO THE RIM; [unmould] SPRINKLE [with the above dressing] AND SERVE
[2].
[1] List. _caseum Vestinum_--a certain cheese from the
Adriatic coast.
[2] The nature of the first passage of this formula
indicates a dressing for a cold dish. The dish was
probably unmoulded when firm, and the jelly covered with
this dressing, though the original does not state this
procedure. In that case it would resemble a highly
complicated chicken salad, such as we make
today--_mayonnaise de volaille en aspic_, for instance.
We recall the artistic molds for puddings and other
dishes which the ancients had which were nicely suited
for dishes such as the above.
The Picentian bread--made of spelt--was a celebrated
product of the bakeries of Picentia, a town of lower
Italy, near the Tuscan sea, according to Pliny.
Cf. {Rx} No. 141.
[127] OTHER SALACACCABIA
_ALITER_
HOLLOW OUT AN ALEXANDRINE LOAF OF BREAD, SOAK THE CRUMBS WITH POSCA [a
mixture of water, wine, vinegar or lemon juice] AND MAKE A PASTE OF
IT. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, HONEY [1] MINT, GARLIC, FRESH CORIANDER,
SALTED COW'S CHEESE, WATER AND OIL. WINE [2] POURED OVER BEFORE
SERVING [3].
[1] Wanting in Tor.
[2] G.-V. _insuper nivem_--chilled on snow (like the
preceding formula). Tac. _insuper vinum_; Sch. _id._
[3] A panada as is found in every old cookery book.
Today it remains as a dressing for roast fowl, etc.
Quoting from "A Collection of Receipts in Cookery,
Physick and Surgery," London, 1724:
"Panada for a Sick or Weak Stomach. Put the crumbs of a
Penny White-Loaf grated into a Quart of cold Water, set
both on the Fire together with a blade of Mace: When
'tis boil'd smooth, take it off the fire and put in a
bit of Lemon-peel, the juice of a Lemon, a glass of Sack
[Spanish Wine] and Sugar to your Taste. This is very
Nourishing and never offends the Stomach. Some season
with butter and Sugar, adding Currants which on some
occasions are proper; but the first is the most grateful
and innocent."
Mrs. Glasse, a quarter century later, in her famous book
[The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, London, 1747,
1st ed.] omits the wine, but Mrs. Mason, at about the
same time, insists on having it with panada.
The imaginary or real relation between the sciences of
cookery and medicine is illustrated here.
II
DISHES OF FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUITS AND SO FORTH
_PATINÆ PISCIUM, HOLERUM & POMORUM_
[128] EVERYDAY DISH
_PATINA QUOTIDIANA_ [1]
MAKE A PASTE OF STEWED BRAINS [calf's, pig's, etc.] SEASON WITH
PEPPER, CUMIN, LASER, BROTH, THICKENED WINE, MILK AND EGGS [2] POACH
IT OVER A WEAK FIRE OR IN A HOT WATER [BATH].
[1] Tac. _quottidiana_; List. _cottidiana_.
[2] List. _ovis_--with eggs, which is correct. Tor.
_holus_; Lan. _olus_--herbs, cabbage.
Cf. {Rx} No. 142.
[129] ANOTHER DISH, WHICH CAN BE TURNED OVER [A Nut Custard]
_ALITER PATINA VERSATILIS_
THE DISH, CALLED TURN-OVER, IS THUS MADE [1] CRUSH VERY FINE WALNUTS
AND HAZELNUTS [2] TOAST THEM AND CRUSH WITH HONEY, MIX IN PEPPER,
BROTH, MILK AND EGGS AND A LITTLE OIL [3].
[1] Tor.
[2] List. _torres eas_--toast them (wanting in Tor.)
which is the thing to do. Cf. No. 143, practically a
repetition of this. Cf. 301.
[3] This laconic formula indicates a custard poached,
like in the preceding, in a mould, which, when cooled
off, is unmoulded in the usual way. This _patina
versatilis_ is in fact the modern _crême renversée_,
with nuts.
It is characteristic of Apicius for incompleteness and
want of precise directions, without which the experiment
in the hands of an inexperienced operator would result
in failure.
[130] ANOTHER
_ALITER PATINA_
ANOTHER DISH IS MADE OF THE [1] STRUNKS OF LETTUCE CRUSHED WITH
PEPPER, BROTH, THICKENED WINE, [add] WATER AND OIL, AND COOK THIS;
BIND WITH EGGS, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [2].
[1] Tor.
[2] Very much like a modern soup, purée of lettuce.
[131] VEGETABLE AND BRAIN PUDDING
_PATINA FRISILIS_ [1]
TAKE VEGETABLES, CLEAN AND WASH, SHRED [2] AND COOK THEM [3] COOL THEM
OFF AND DRAIN THEM. TAKE 4 [calf's] BRAINS, REMOVE [the skin and]
STRINGS AND COOK THEM [4] IN THE MORTAR PUT 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER,
MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND CRUSH FINE; THEN ADD THE BRAINS, RUB AGAIN AND
MEANWHILE ADD THE VEGETABLES, RUBBING ALL THE WHILE, AND MAKE A FINE
PASTE OF IT. THEREUPON BREAK AND ADD 8 EGGS. NOW ADD A GLASSFUL [5] OF
BROTH, A GLASSFUL OF WINE, A GLASSFUL OF RAISIN WINE, TASTE THIS
PREPARATION. OIL THE BAKING DISH THOROUGHLY [put the mixture in the
dish] AND PLACE IT IN THE HOT PLATE, (THAT IS ABOVE THE HOT ASHES) [6]
AND WHEN IT IS DONE [unmould it] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [7].
[1] List. _frictilis_; Vat. Ms. _fusilis_; G.-V. _id._;
Lan. _frisilis_.
_Patina frisilis_ remains unexplained. None of the
various readings can be satisfactorily rendered. If the
vegetables had remained whole the dish might be compared
to a _chartreuse_, those delightful creations by the
Carthusian monks who compelled by the strictest rules of
vegetarianism evolved a number of fine vegetable dishes.
On the other hand, the poached mixture of eggs and
brains is akin to our _farces_ and _quenelles_; but in
modern cookery we have nothing just like this _patina
frisilis_.
[2] Wanting in List.
[3] and [4] Wanting in Tor.
[5] _Cyathum._
[6] Sentence in () ex Tor.
[7] This and some of the following recipes are
remarkable for their preciseness and completeness.
[132] ANOTHER COLD ASPARAGUS [and Figpecker] DISH
_ALITER PATINA DE ASPARAGIS FRIGIDA_
COLD ASPARAGUS PIE IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [1] TAKE WELL CLEANED
[cooked] ASPARAGUS, CRUSH IT IN THE MORTAR, DILUTE WITH WATER AND
PRESENTLY STRAIN IT THROUGH THE COLANDER. NOW TRIM, PREPARE [i.e. cook
or roast] FIGPECKERS [2] [and hold them in readiness]. 3 [3] SCRUPLES
OF PEPPER ARE CRUSHED IN THE MORTAR, ADD BROTH, A GLASS OF WINE, PUT
THIS IN A SAUCEPAN WITH 3 OUNCES OF OIL, HEAT THOROUGHLY. MEANWHILE
OIL YOUR PIE MOULD, AND WITH 6 EGGS, FLAVORED WITH {OE}NOGARUM, AND
THE ASPARAGUS PREPARATION AS DESCRIBED ABOVE; THICKEN THE MIXTURE ON
THE HOT ASHES. THEREUPON ARRANGE THE FIGPECKERS IN THE MOULD, COVER
THEM WITH THIS PURÉE, BAKE THE DISH. [When cold, unmould it] SPRINKLE
WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Tor.
[2] Lan. and Tac. _ficedulas curtas tres_; Tor. _curtas_
f.--three figpeckers cut fine. G.-V. _F. curatas. Teres
in ..._ (etc.)--Prepared _F._
[3] List. six; G.-V. _id._
[133] ANOTHER ASPARAGUS CUSTARD
_ALIA PATINA DE ASPARAGIS_
ASPARAGUS PIE IS MADE LIKE THIS [1] PUT IN THE MORTAR ASPARAGUS TIPS
[2] CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SAVORY AND ONIONS; CRUSH,
DILUTE WITH WINE, BROTH AND OIL. PUT THIS IN A WELL-GREASED PAN, AND,
IF YOU LIKE, ADD WHILE ON THE FIRE SOME BEATEN EGGS TO IT TO THICKEN
IT, COOK [without boiling the eggs] AND SPRINKLE WITH VERY FINE
PEPPER.
[1] Tor.
[2] Reference to wine wanting in Tor. We add that the
asparagus should be cooked before crushing.
[134] A DISH OF FIELD VEGETABLES
_PATINA EX RUSTICIS_ [1]
BY FOLLOWING THE ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS YOU MAY MAKE [2] A PIE OF FIELD
VEGETABLES, OR OF THYME [3] OR OF GREEN PEPPERS [4] OR OF CUCUMBERS OR
OF SMALL TENDER SPROUTS [5] SAME AS ABOVE, OR, IF YOU LIKE, MAKE ONE
UNDERLAID WITH BONELESS PIECES OF FISH OR OF CHICKEN [combined with
any of the above vegetables] [6].
[1] Tor. _Patina ex oleribus agrestibus_.
[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.
[3] Sch., G.-V. _tamnis_--wild wine; List. _cymis
cuminis_; Lan., Tac. _tinis_; Vat. Ms. _tannis_. Thyme
is hardly likely to be the chief ingredient of such a
dish; the chances are it was used for flavoring and that
the above enumerated vegetables were combined in one
dish.
[4] List., G.-V., Goll.--mustard; Dann. green mustard.
Tor. _sive pipere viridi_--green peppers, which we
accept as correct, gastronomically at least.
[5] Goll., Dann. cabbage, the originals have
_coliculis_--small tender sprouts on the order of
Brussels sprouts or broccoli, all belonging to the
cabbage family.
[6] _Pulpa_--boneless pieces of meat, also fruit purée;
_pulpamentum_--dainty bits of meat.
[135] ELDERBERRY CUSTARD OR PIE
_PATINA DE SAMBUCO_ [1]
A DISH OF ELDERBERRIES, EITHER HOT OR COLD, IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2]
TAKE ELDERBERRIES [3] WASH THEM; COOK IN WATER, SKIM AND STRAIN.
PREPARE A DISH IN WHICH TO COOK THE CUSTARD [4] CRUSH 6 SCRUPLES OF
PEPPER WITH A LITTLE BROTH; ADD THIS TO THE ELDERBERRY PULP WITH
ANOTHER GLASS OF BROTH, A GLASS OF WINE, A GLASS OF RAISIN WINE AND AS
MUCH AS 4 OUNCES OF OIL. PUT THE DISH IN THE HOT BATH AND STIR THE
CONTENTS. AS SOON AS IT IS GETTING WARM, QUICKLY BREAK 6 EGGS AND
WHIPPING THEM, INCORPORATE THEM, IN ORDER TO THICKEN THE FLUID. WHEN
THICK ENOUGH SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE UP.
[1] G.-V. _Sabuco_.
[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.
[3] Hum. _semen de sambuco_--E. seed.
[4] List. Place the berries in a dish; to their juice
add pepper, (etc.).
[136] ROSE PIE, ROSE CUSTARD OR PUDDING
_PATINA DE ROSIS_
TAKE ROSES FRESH FROM THE FLOWER BED, STRIP OFF THE LEAVES, REMOVE THE
WHITE [from the petals and] PUT THEM IN THE MORTAR; POUR OVER SOME
BROTH [and] RUB FINE. ADD A GLASS OF BROTH AND STRAIN THE JUICE
THROUGH THE COLANDER. [This done] TAKE 4 [cooked calf's] BRAINS, SKIN
THEM AND REMOVE THE NERVES; CRUSH 8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER MOISTENED WITH
THE JUICE AND RUB [with the brains]; THEREUPON BREAK 8 EGGS, ADD 1 [1]
GLASS OF WINE, 1 GLASS OF RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. MEANWHILE
GREASE A PAN, PLACE IT ON THE HOT ASHES [or in the hot bath] IN WHICH
POUR THE ABOVE DESCRIBED MATERIAL; WHEN THE MIXTURE IS COOKED IN THE
_BAIN MARIS_ [2] SPRINKLE IT WITH PULVERIZED PEPPER AND SERVE [3].
[1] List., G.-V. 1-1/2 glass.
[2] Hot water bath.
[3] Tor. continues {Rx} No. 135 without interruption or
caption, and describes the above recipe. He reads: _De
thoris accipies rosas_, but List. insists that _de
thoris_ be read _de rosis_; Lan., Tac. _de toris_; V.
_de thoris_ may be read "fresh from the flower bed."
Cf. {Rx} Nos. 167 and 171 in which case the "rose" may
stand for rosy apple, or "Roman Beauty" apple. "Rose
apple" also is a small pimento, size of a plum.
[137] PUMPKIN PIE
_PATINA DE CUCURBITIS_ [1]
AND PUMPKIN PIE IS MADE THUS [2] STEWED AND MASHED PUMPKIN IS PLACED
IN THE PAN [or pie dish] SEASONED WITH A LITTLE CUMIN ESSENCE. ADD A
LITTLE OIL; HEAT [bake] AND SERVE [3].
[1] Dann. Cucumber Dish.
[2] Tor. Wanting in other texts.
[3] Modern English recipes for stewed pumpkin resemble
this Apician precept, but America has made a really
palatable dish from pumpkin by the addition of eggs,
cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger--spices which the insipid
pumpkin needs. The ancient original may have omitted the
eggs because Apicius probably expected his formula to be
carried out in accordance with the preceding formulæ.
Perhaps this is proven by the fact that Tor. continues
the Rose Pie recipe with _et cucurbita patina sic fiet_.
[138] SPRATS OR SMELTS AU VIN BLANC
_PATINA DE APUA_ [1]
CLEAN THE SMELTS [or other small fish, filets of sole, etc. of white
meat] MARINATE [i.e. impregnate with] IN OIL, PLACE IN A SHALLOW PAN,
ADD OIL, BROTH [2] AND WINE. BUNCH [3] [fresh] RUE AND MARJORAM AND
COOK WITH THE FISH. WHEN DONE REMOVE THE HERBS, SEASON THE FISH WITH
PEPPER AND SERVE [4].
[1] Ex List. and G.-V. wanting in Tor.
[2] _Liquamen_, which in this case corresponds to _court
bouillon_, a broth prepared from the trimmings of the
fish, herbs, and wine, well-seasoned and reduced.
[3] Our very own _bouquet garni_, a bunch of various
aromatic herbs, inserted during coction and retired
before serving.
[4] Excellent formula for fish in white wine, resembling
our ways of making this fine dish.
This again illustrates the laconic style of the ancient
author. He omitted to say that the fish, when cooked,
was placed on the service platter and that the juices
remaining in the sauce pan were tied with one or two egg
yolks, diluted with cream, or wine, or _court bouillon_,
strained and poured over the fish at the moment of
serving. This is perhaps the best method of preparing
fish with white meat of a fine texture. Pink or darker
fish do not lend themselves to this method of
preparation.
[139] SMELT PIE, OR, SPRAT CUSTARD
_PATINA DE ABUA SIVE APUA_ [1]
BONELESS PIECES OF ANCHOVIES OR [other small] FISH, EITHER ROAST
[fried] BOILED, CHOP VERY FINE. FILL A CASSEROLE GENEROUSLY WITH THE
SAME [season with] CRUSHED PEPPER AND A LITTLE RUE, ADD SUFFICIENT
BROTH AND SOME OIL, AND MIX IN, ALSO ADD ENOUGH RAW EGGS SO THAT THE
WHOLE FORMS ONE SOLID MASS. NOW CAREFULLY ADD SOME SEA-NETTLES BUT
TAKE PAIN THAT THEY ARE NOT MIXED WITH THE EGGS. NOW PUT THE DISH INTO
THE STEAM SO THAT IT MAY CONGEAL [but avoid boiling] [2]. WHEN DONE
SPRINKLE WITH GROUND PEPPER AND CARRY INTO THE DINING ROOM. NOBODY
WILL BE ABLE TO TELL WHAT HE IS ENJOYING [3].
[1] Tac., Tor. _sic_. List., G.-V. _p. de apua sine
apua_--a dish of anchovies (or smelts) without
anchovies. Tor. formula bears the title _patina de
apua_, and his article opens with the following
sentence: _patin de abua sive apua sic facies_. He is
therefore quite emphatic that the dish is to be made
with the _abua_ or _apua_ (an anchovy) and not without
_apua_, as List. has it. Lan. calls the dish: P. _de
apabadiade_, not identified.
[2] Tor. _impones ad uaporem ut cum ouis meare
possint_--warning, get along with the eggs, i.e. beware
of boiling them for they will curdle, and the experiment
is hopelessly lost. List. however, reads _meare possint_
thus: _bullire p._--boil (!) It is quite plain that Tor.
has the correct formula.
[3] _et ex esu nemo agnoscet quid manducet._ Dann.
renders this sentence thus: "Nobody can value this dish
unless he has partaken of it himself." He is too
lenient. We would rather translate it literally as we
did above, or say broadly, "And nobody will be any the
wiser." List. dwells at length upon this sentence; his
erudite commentary upon the _cena dubia_, the doubtful
meal, will be found under the heading of _cena_ in our
vocabulary. List. pp. 126-7. List. undoubtedly made the
mistake of reading _sine_ for _sive_. He therefore
omitted the _apua_ from his formula. The above boastful
sentence may have induced him to do so.
The above is a fish forcemeat, now seldom used as an
integral dish, but still popular as a dressing for fish
or as quenelles. The modern fish forcemeat is usually
made of raw fish, cream and eggs, with the necessary
seasoning. The material is poached or cooked much in the
same manner as prescribed by the ancient recipe.
[140] A RICH ENTRÉE OF FISH, POULTRY AND SAUSAGE IN CREAM
_PATINA EX LACTE_
SOAK [pignolia] NUTS, DRY THEM, AND ALSO HAVE FRESH SEA-URCHINS [1]
READY. TAKE A DEEP DISH [casserole] IN WHICH ARRANGE THE FOLLOWING
THINGS [in layers]: MEDIUM-SIZED MALLOWS AND BEETS, MATURE LEEKS,
CELERY, STEWED TENDER GREEN CABBAGE, AND OTHER BOILED GREEN VEGETABLES
[2], A DISJOINTED [3] CHICKEN STEWED IN ITS OWN GRAVY, COOKED [calf's
or pig's] BRAINS, LUCANIAN SAUSAGE, HARD BOILED EGGS CUT INTO HALVES,
BIG TARENTINIAN SAUSAGE [4] SLICED AND BROILED IN THE ASHES, CHICKEN
GIBLETS OR PIECES OF CHICKEN MEAT. BITS OF FRIED FISH, SEA NETTLES,
PIECES OF [stewed] OYSTERS AND FRESH CHEESE ARE ALTERNATELY PUT
TOGETHER; SPRINKLE IN BETWEEN THE NUTS AND WHOLE PEPPER, AND THE JUICE
AS IS COOKED FROM PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED AND SILPHIUM. THIS
ESSENCE, WHEN DONE, MIX WITH MILK TO WHICH RAW EGGS HAVE BEEN ADDED
[pour this over the pieces of food in the dish] SO THAT THE WHOLE IS
THOROUGHLY COMBINED, STIFFEN IT [in the hot water bath] AND WHEN DONE
[garnish with] FRESH MUSSELS [sea-urchins, poached and chopped fine]
SPRINKLE PEPPER OVER AND SERVE.
[1] Sea-urchins, wanting in Tor.
[2] Sentence wanting in G.-V.
[3] _Pullum raptum_, in most texts; G.-V. _p.
carptum_--plucked. Of course! Should _raptum_ be
translated literally? A most atrocious way of killing
fowl, to be sure, but anyone familiar with the habits of
the ancients, particularly with those of the less
educated element, should not wonder at this most bestial
fashion, which was supposed to improve the flavor of the
meat, a fashion which, as a matter of fact still
survives in the Orient, particularly in China.
[4] Vat. Ms. _Tarentino farsos_; Tor. cooks the sausage
in the ashes--_coctos in cinere_; List. _in cinere
legendum jecinora_--chicken giblets. Lister's
explanation of the Tarentinian sausage is found in the
vocabulary, _v. Longano_.
[141] APICIAN DISH
_PATINA APICIANA_ [1]
THE APICIAN DISH IS MADE THUS: TAKE SMALL PIECES OF COOKED SOW'S BELLY
[with the paps on it] PIECES OF FISH, PIECES OF CHICKEN, THE BREASTS
OF FIGPECKERS OR OF THRUSHES [slightly] COOKED, [and] WHICHEVER IS
BEST. MINCE ALL THIS VERY CAREFULLY, PARTICULARLY THE FIGPECKERS [the
meat of which is very tender]. DISSOLVE IN OIL STRICTLY FRESH EGGS;
CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE, POUR OVER SOME BROTH AND RAISIN WINE, PUT IT
IN A SAUCEPAN TO HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. AFTER YOU HAVE CUT ALL IN
REGULAR PIECES, LET IT COME TO THE BOILING POINT. WHEN DONE, RETIRE
[from the fire] WITH ITS JUICE OF WHICH YOU PUT SOME IN ANOTHER DEEP
PAN WITH WHOLE PEPPER AND PIGNOLIA NUTS. SPREAD [the ragout] OUT IN
SINGLE LAYERS WITH THIN PANCAKES IN BETWEEN; PUT IN AS MANY PANCAKES
AND LAYERS OF MEAT AS IS REQUIRED TO FILL THE DISH; PUT A FINAL COVER
OF PANCAKE ON TOP AND SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AFTER THOSE EGGS HAVE BEEN
ADDED [which serve] TO TIE THE DISH. NOW PUT THIS [mould or dish] IN A
BOILER [steamer, hot water bath, allow to congeal] AND DISH IT OUT [by
unmoulding it]. AN EXPENSIVE SILVER PLATTER WOULD ENHANCE THE
APPEARANCE OF THIS DISH MATERIALLY.
[1] Cf. {Rx} No. 126.
[142] AN EVERY-DAY DISH
_PATINA QUOTIDIANA_ [1]
PIECES OF COOKED SOW'S UDDER, PIECES OF COOKED FISH, CHICKEN MEAT AND
SIMILAR BITS, MINCE UNIFORMLY, SEASON WELL AND CAREFULLY [2]. TAKE A
METAL DISH [for a mould]. BREAK EGGS [in another bowl] AND BEAT THEM.
IN A MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY [3], WHICH CRUSH; MOISTEN
[this] WITH BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL; EMPTY IT INTO
THE BOWL [with the beaten eggs, mix] AND HEAT IT [in the hot water
bath]. THEREUPON WHEN [this is] THICKENED MIX IT WITH THE PIECES OF
MEAT. NOW PREPARE [alternately] LAYERS OF STEW AND PANCAKES,
INTERSPERSED WITH OIL [in the metal mould reserved for this purpose]
UNTIL FULL, COVER WITH ONE REAL GOOD PANCAKE [4], CUT INTO IT A VENT
HOLE FOR CHIMNEY ON THE SURFACE [bake in hot water bath and when done]
TURN OUT UPSIDE DOWN INTO ANOTHER DISH. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND
SERVE.
[1] List. _cottidiana_; G.-V. _cotidiana_. Everyday
Dish, in contrast to the foregoing Apician dish which is
more sumptuous on account of the figpeckers or thrushes.
In the originals these two formulæ are rolled into one.
Cf. {Rx} No. 128.
[2] G.-V. _Hæc omnia concides_; Tor. _condies_; List.
_condies lege concides_ which we dispute.
_Condies_--season, flavor--is more correct in this
place; _concides_--mince--is a repetition of what has
been said already.
[3] Origany wanting in G.-V.
[4] List. _superficie versas in discum insuper in
superficium pones_; Sch. _a superficie versas indusium
super focum pones_; G.-V. _in discum_; Tor. _unum uerò
laganum fistula percuties à superficie uersas in discum
in superficiem præterea pones_--which we have translated
literally above, as we believe Tor. to be correct in
this important matter of having a chimney on top of such
a pie.
[143] NUT CUSTARD TURN-OVER [1]
_PATINA VERSATILIS VICE DULCIS_
PIGNOLIA NUTS, CHOPPED OR BROKEN NUTS [other varieties] ARE CLEANED
AND ROASTED AND CRUSHED WITH HONEY. MIX IN [beat well] PEPPER, BROTH,
MILK, EGGS, A LITTLE HONEY [2] AND OIL. [Thicken slowly on fire
without boiling, fill in moulds, taking care that the nuts do not sink
to the bottom, bake in hot water bath, when cold unmould].
[1] Practically the only recipe in Apicius fairly
resembling a modern "dessert." This is practically a
repetition of {Rx} No. 129, which see.
[2] Tor. _modico melle_; List. _m. mero_--pure wine and
also pure honey, i.e. thick honey for sweetening. Wine
would be out of place here. This is an excellent example
of nut custard, if the "pepper" and the "broth"
(_liquamen_), of the original, in other words spices and
brine, or salt, be used very sparingly. For "pepper"
nutmeg or allspice may be substituted, as is used today
in such preparations. The oil seems superfluous, but it
is taking the place of our butter. This very incomplete
formula is characteristic because of the absence of
weights and measures and other vital information as to
the manipulation of the materials. None but an
experienced practitioner could make use of this formula
in its original state.
Goll. adds toasted raisins, for which there is no
authority.
The text now proceeds without interruption to the next
formula.
[144] TYROTARICA [1]
_PATELLA THIROTARICA_ [2]
TAKE ANY KIND OF SALT FISH [3] COOK [fry or broil it] IN OIL, TAKE THE
BONES OUT, SHRED IT [and add] PIECES OF COOKED BRAINS, PIECES OF
[other, fresh (?)] FISH, MINCED CHICKEN LIVERS [4] AND [cover with]
HOT SOFT [i.e. liquefied] CHEESE. HEAT ALL THIS IN A DISH; [meanwhile]
GRIND PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, SEEDS OF RUE WITH WINE, HONEY WINE AND
OIL; COOK ALL ON A SLOW FIRE; BIND [this sauce] WITH RAW EGGS; ARRANGE
[the fish, etc.]. PROPERLY [incorporate with the sauce] SPRINKLE WITH
CRUSHED CUMIN AND SERVE [5].
[1] G.-V., List., Vat. Ms. _Thyrotarnica_; cf. notes to
{Rx} Nos. 427, 428.
[2] Tor.
[3] Tor. Wanting in other texts.
[4] List., G.-V. here add hard boiled eggs, which is
permissible, gastronomically.
[5] Modern fish _au gratin_ is made in a similar way.
Instead of this wine sauce a spiced cream sauce and
grated cheese are mixed with the bits of cooked fish,
which is then baked in the dish.
Brains, chicken, etc., too, are served _au gratin_, but
a combination of the three in one dish is no longer
practiced. However, the Italian method of baking fish,
etc., _au gratin à l'Italienne_ contains even more herbs
and wine reduction than the above formula.
[145] SALT FISH BALLS IN WINE SAUCE [1]
_PATELLA ARIDA_ [2]
DRY PIECES OF SALT TURSIO [3] ARE BONED, CLEANED [soaked in water,
cooked] SHREDDED FINE AND SEASONED WITH GROUND PEPPER, LOVAGE,
ORIGANY, PARSLEY, CORIANDER, CUMIN, RUE SEEDS AND DRY MINT. MAKE FISH
BALLS OUT OF THIS MATERIAL AND POACH THE SAME IN WINE, BROTH AND OIL;
AND WHEN COOKED, ARRANGE THEM IN A DISH. THEN MAKE A SAUCE [utilizing
the broth, the _court bouillon_ in which the balls were cooked] SEASON
WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, ONIONS AND WINE AND VINEGAR, ALSO ADD
BROTH AND OIL AS NEEDED, BIND WITH ROUX [4] [pour over the balls]
SPRINKLE WITH THYME AND GROUND PEPPER [5].
[1] Reminding us of the Norwegian _fiske boller_ in wine
sauce, a popular commercial article found canned in
delicatessen stores.
[2] List. _patella sicca_--dry, perhaps because made of
dried fish.
[3] List. _isicia de Tursione_; G.-V. _Thursione_.
Probably a common sturgeon, or porpoise, or dolphin.
List. describes it as "a kind of salt fish from the
Black Sea; a malicious fish with a mouth similar to a
rabbit"; Dann. thinks it is a sturgeon, but in Goll. it
appears as tunny. The ancients called the sturgeon
_acipenser_; but this name was gradually changed into
_styrio_, _stirio_ and _sturio_, which is similar to
_tursio_ (cf. _styrio_ in the vocabulary). The fish in
question therefore may have been sturgeon for which the
Black Sea is famous.
[4] List., G.-V. _ovis obligabis_--tie with
eggs--certainly preferable to the Tor. version.
[5] Tor. thyme.
The above is an excellent way of making fish balls, it
being taken for granted, of course, that the salt fish
be thoroughly soaked and cooked in milk before shaping
into balls. The many spices should be used very
moderately, some to be omitted entirely. We read between
the lines of the old formula that the _Tursio_ had a
long journey from Pontus to Rome; fish however dry
acquires a notorious flavor upon such journeys which
must be offset by herbs and spices.
It is quite possible that the ancients made a
_réduction_ of the herbs and spices mentioned in this
formula; in fact, the presence of vinegar leads us to
believe this, in which case this formula would be
nothing but a very modern sauce. The herbs and spices in
a _réduction_ are crushed and boiled down in vinegar and
wine, and strained off, they leave their finest flavor
in the sauce.
[146] VEGETABLE DINNER
_PATELLA EX OLISATRO_ [1]
[Any kind of vegetables or herbs] BLANCHED OFF IN WATER WITH [a
little] SODA; SQUEEZE [out the water] ARRANGE IN A SAUCEPAN. GRIND
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, SATURY, ONION WITH WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR AND
OIL; ADD [this] TO THE VEGETABLES, STEW [all until nearly done] AND
TIE WITH ROUX. SPRINKLE WITH THYME, FINELY GROUND PEPPER AND SERVE.
ANY KIND OF VEGETABLE [2] MAY BE PREPARED IN THE ABOVE MANNER, IF YOU
WISH.
[1] Wanting in Tac. and Tor. G.-V. _patellam ex
holisatro_.
[2] It is worth noting that Tor. and Tac. omit this
recipe entirely and that Tor. concludes the preceding
formula with the last sentence of the above formula,
except for the difference in one word. Tor. _et de
quacunque libra_ [List. _et al._ _herba_] _si volueris
facies ut demonstratum est suprà_. This might mean that
it is optional (in the preceding formula) to shape the
fish into one pound loaves instead of the small fish
balls, which is often done in the case of forcemeats, as
in veal, beef, ham loaves, or fish pie.
We are inclined to accept the reading of Torinus, for
the above way of preparing "any kind of vegetables or
herbs" is somewhat farfetched. Furthermore, the
vegetable dish would more properly belong in Book III.
Just another example of where readings by various
editors are different because of the interpretations of
one word. In this case one group reads _libra_ whereas
the other reads _herba_.
[147] A DISH OF SARDINES
_PATELLA DE APUA_ [1]
SARDINE LOAF (OR OMELETTE) IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] CLEAN THE
SARDINES [of skin and bones]; BREAK [and beat] EGGS AND MIX WITH [half
of the] FISH [3]; ADD TO THIS SOME STOCK, WINE AND OIL, AND FINISH
[the composition] BY HEATING IT. WHEN DONE TO A POINT, ADD [the
remaining part of the] SARDINES TO IT, LET IT STAND A WHILE [over a
slow fire to congeal] CAREFULLY TURN OVER [dish it up] MASK WITH A
WARM [4] WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _Patina de apua fricta_--same as _aphya_,
fried fresh small fish of the kind of anchovies,
sardines, sprats.
In experimenting with this formula we would advise to
use salt and oil judiciously if any at all. We have no
knowledge of the ancient _apua fricta_ other than our
making of modern sardines which is to fry them in oil as
quickly as possible after the fish has left the water,
for its meat is very delicate. For an omelette, our
modern sardines, including kippered smelts, sprotten,
and similar smoked and processed fish, contain
sufficient salt and fat to season the eggs of an
omelette.
[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Tor. _cum aqua_; List., G.-V. _cum apua_. Perhaps a
typographical error in Tor. A little water is used to
dilute the eggs of an omelette, but Apicius already
prescribes sufficient liquids (stock or brine, wine) for
that purpose.
[4] Tor. _et in calore {oe}nogarum perfundes_; List.,
G.-V. _ut coloret_--to keep the omelette in the pan long
enough to give it "color." We prefer the Torinus version
because an omelette should have no or very little color
from the fire (the eggs thus browned are indigestible)
and because hot _{oe}nogarum_ (wine-fish sauce, not in
List.) is accompanying this dish, to give additional
savour and a finishing touch.
[148] FINE RAGOUT OF BRAINS AND BACON
_PATINA EX LARIDIS _[1]_ ET CEREBELLIS_
THE DISH OF BACON AND BRAINS IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] STRAIN [or
chop fine] HARD BOILED EGGS [3] WITH PARBOILED BRAINS [calf's or
pig's] THE SKIN AND NERVES OF WHICH HAVE BEEN REMOVED; ALSO COOK
CHICKEN GIBLETS, ALL IN PROPORTION TO THE FISH [4] PUT THIS AFORESAID
MIXTURE IN A SAUCEPAN, PLACE THE COOKED BACON IN THE CENTER, GRIND
PEPPER AND LOVAGE AND TO SWEETEN ADD A DASH OF MEAD, HEAT, WHEN HOT
STIR BRISKLY WITH A RUE WHIP AND BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] G.-V. _lagitis_; Tor. _laridis_ and _largitis_; Vat.
Ms. _lagatis_; List. _pro lagitis ... legendum
Lacertis_. The _lacertus_, according to List., is a much
esteemed salt fish; not identified. List. _et al._ seem
to be mistaken in their reading of _lacertis_ for
_laridis_. This work stands for salt pork, from
_laridum_ and _lardum_ (French, _lard_; the English
_lard_ is applied to the rendered fat of pork in
general). Cf. notes to {Rx} No. 41.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] _oua dura_; Sch. _o. dua_--two eggs.
[4] This formula would be intelligible and even
gastronomically correct were it not for this word
"fish." However, we cannot accept Lister's reading
_lacertis_. We prefer the reading, _laridis_, bacon. The
French have another term for this--_petits salés_. Both
this and the Torinus term are in the plural. They are
simply small strips of bacon to which Torinus again
refers in the above formula, _salsum, coctum in media
pones_--put the bacon, when done, in the center (of the
dish). Regarding _salsum_ also see note to {Rx} No. 41.
The above dish resembles _ragoût fin en coquille_, a
popular Continental dish, although its principal
ingredients are sweetbreads instead of brains.
[149] BROILED MULLET
_PATINA EX PISCIBUS MULLIS_ [1]
A DISH OF MULLET CONSISTS OF [2] SCALED SALT MULLET PLACED IN A CLEAN
PAN WITH ENOUGH OIL [3] AS IS NECESSARY FOR COOKING; WHEN DONE ADD [a
dash of honey-] WINE OR RAISIN WINE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] List., G.-V. _mullorum loco salsi_--salt mullet.
[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.
[3] List. _liquamen_--broth, brine, which would be worse
than carrying owls to Athens. As a matter of fact, the
mullet if it be what List. says, _loco salsi_--salted on
the spot, i.e. as caught, near the sea shore, requires
soaking to extract the salt.
[150] A DISH OF ANY KIND OF SALT FISH
_PATINA EX PISCIBUS QUIBUSLIBET_ [1]
ANOTHER FISH DISH IS THUS MADE [2] FRY ANY KIND OF CURED [3] FISH,
CAREFULLY TREATED [soaked and cleaned] PLACE IN A PAN, COVER WITH
SUFFICIENT OIL, LAY [strips of] COOKED SALT [4] [pork or
bacon--_petits salés_] OVER THE CENTER, KEEP IT HOT, WHEN REAL HOT,
ADD A DASH OF HONEY WINE TO THE GRAVY AND STIR IT UP [5].
[1] Ex Tor.; G.-V. _P. piscium loco salsi_.
[2] Tor.; sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Tor. _duratos_--_hard_--no sense here, probably a
misprint of the d. List. _curatos_--carefully treated,
"cured," processed.
[4] _Salsum coctum_, cf. notes to {Rx} No. 148; Goll.,
Dann.--sprinkle [the fish] with salt.... Like Lister's
error in the preceding formula it would be a great
blunder to add salt to a cured fish already saturated
with salt to the utmost. Cf. also note 2 to {Rx} Nos.
41, 148.
[5] Virtually a repetition of {Rx} No. 149, except for
the addition of the pork.
[151] ANOTHER FISH DISH, WITH ONIONS
_ALIA PISCIUM PATINA_
ANOTHER FISH DISH MAKE AS FOLLOWS [1] CLEAN ANY KIND OF FISH AND PLACE
IT PROPERLY IN A SAUCEPAN WITH SHREDDED DRY ASCALONIAN ONIONS
[shallots] OR WITH ANY OTHER KIND OF ONIONS, THE FISH ON TOP. ADD
STOCK AND OIL AND COOK. WHEN DONE, PUT BROILED BACON IN THE CENTER,
GIVE IT A DASH OF VINEGAR, SPRINKLE WITH [finely chopped] SAVORY AND
GARNISH WITH [the] ONIONS.
[1] Tor., sentence wanting in other texts.
[152] A LUCRETIAN DISH
_PATINA LUCRETIANA_ [1]
CLEAN YOUNG ONIONS, REJECTING THE GREEN TOPS, AND PLACE [2] THEM IN A
SAUCEPAN WITH A LITTLE BROTH, SOME OIL AND WATER, AND, TO BE COOKED
[with the onions] PLACE SALT PORK [3] IN THE MIDST [of the scallions].
WHEN NEARLY DONE, ADD A SPOON OF HONEY [4] A LITTLE VINEGAR AND
REDUCED MUST, TASTE IT, IF INSIPID ADD MORE BRINE [broth] IF TOO
SALTY, ADD MORE HONEY, AND SPRINKLE WITH SAVORY [5].
[1] Dann. Named for Lucretius Epicuræus, a contemporary
of Cicero. List. _ab authore cui in usu fuit sic
appellata_.
[2] G.-V. _concides_. Not necessary.
[3] _salsum crudum_--salt pork, i.e. not smoked or cured
bacon. Dann. raw salt; Goll. salt. Impossible, of
course! Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 41, 147, 149.
[4] To glaze the pork, no doubt; reminding us of our own
use of sugar to glaze ham or bacon, and of the molasses
added to pork (and beans).
[5] G.-V. _coronam bubulam_. In experimenting with this
formula omit salt completely. Instead of honey we have
also added maple syrup once. To make this a perfect
luncheon dish a starch is wanting; we have therefore
added sliced raw potatoes and cooked with the rest, to
make it a balanced meal, by way of improving upon
Lucretius. Since the ancients had no potatoes we have,
on a different occasion, created another version by
added sliced dasheens (_colocasia_, cf. {Rx} Nos. 74,
216, 244, 322). It is surprising that the ancients who
used the _colocasium_ extensively did not combine it
with the above dish.
[153] STEWED LACERTUS FISH
_PATINA DE LACERTIS_ [1]
CLEAN AND WASH [soak] THE FISH [2] [cook and flake it] BREAK AND BEAT
EGGS, MIX THEM WITH THE FISH, ADD BROTH, WINE AND OIL. PLACE THIS ON
THE FIRE, WHEN COOKED [scrambled] ADD SIMPLE FISH WINE SAUCE [3] TO
IT, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4].
[1] Ex List. wanting in Tor. G.-V. _P. de lagitis_; cf.
note to {Rx} No. 148.
[2] Remembering that List. reads _lagitis_ for
_lacertis_, this formula appears to be an antique
"Scrambled Eggs and Bacon." Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 42,
148-150.
[3] _Oenogarum_, cf. {Rx} No. 147, the Sardine Omelette.
[4] To cook the eggs as described above would be
disastrous. The fish, if such was used, was probably
first poached in the broth, wine and oil, and when done,
removed from the pan. The _fond_, or remaining juice or
gravy, was subsequently tied with the egg yolks, and
this sauce was strained over the fish dressed on the
service platter, the _{oe}nogarum_ sparingly sprinkled
over the finished dish. This would closely resemble our
modern _au vin blanc_ fish dishes; the _{oe}nogarum_
taking the place of our meat glacé.
Another interpretation of this vexatious formula is that
if fish was used, the cooked fish was incorporated with
the raw beaten eggs which were then scrambled in the
pan. In that event this formula resembles closely the
sardine omelette.
[154] A FISH STEW
_PATINA ZOMORE_ [1]
THE ZOMORE FISH DISH IS MADE AS FOLLOWS [2] TAKE RAW GANONAS [3] AND
OTHER [fish] WHICHEVER YOU LIKE, PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING
OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, A BUNCH [4] OF LEEKS AND [green] CORIANDER;
WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND A BUNCH OF ORIGANY WHICH
CRUSH BY ITSELF AND DILUTE WITH THE JUICE [5] OF THE FISH. NOW
DISSOLVE [break and beat egg yolks for a _liaison_] PREPARE AND TASTE
THE DISH, BINDING [the sauce with the yolks] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND
SERVE.
[1] List. _Zomoteganite_--"a dish of fish boiled in
their own liquor"; G.-V. _zomoteganon_; Lan.
_zomoreganonas_; Vat. Ms. _zomonam Ganas_.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] _ganonas crudas_--an unidentified fish.
[4] "Bouquet garni."
[5] _ius de suo sibi_--old Plautian latinity. Cf. H. C.
Coote, cit. Apiciana; the proof of the antiquity and the
genuineness of Apicius.
[155] SOLE IN WHITE WINE
_PATINA EX SOLEIS_ [1]
A DISH OF SOLE IS THUS MADE [2] BEAT THE SOLE [3] PREPARE [4] AND
PLACE THEM IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH AND WINE, AND
POACH THEM THUS; NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY AND ADD OF THE FISH
JUICE; THEN BIND THE SAUCE WITH RAW EGGS [yolks] TO MAKE A GOOD CREAMY
SAUCE OF IT; STRAIN THIS OVER THE SOLE, HEAT ALL ON A SLOW FIRE [to
fill it with live heat] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [5].
[1] G.-V. _P. solearum_.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Beat, to make tender, to be able to remove the skin.
[4] Tor. _curatos_--trim, skin, remove entrails, wash.
[5] One of the best of Apician accomplishments. Exactly
like our modern _sole au vin blanc_, one of the most
aristocratic of dishes. Cf. {Rx} No. 487, Excerpta, XIX.
[155a] FISH LIQUOR
_PATINA EX PISCIBUS_
A LIQUOR [in which to cook fish] IS MADE BY TAKING [1] ONE OUNCE OF
PEPPER, ONE PINT OF REDUCED WINE, ONE PINT OF SPICED WINE AND TWO
OUNCES OF OIL.
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[156] A DISH OF LITTLE FISH
_PATINA DE PISCICULIS_ [1]
TAKE RAISINS, PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, WINE, BROTH AND OIL,
PLACE THIS IN A PAN; AFTER THIS HAS COOKED ADD TO IT THE COOKED SMALL
FISH, BIND WITH ROUX AND SERVE.
[1] Smelts, anchovies, whitebait.
[157] A DISH OF TOOTH FISH, DORY OR SEA MULLET AND OYSTERS
_PATINA DE PISCIBUS DENTICE, AURATA ET MUGILE_ [1]
TAKE THE FISH, PREPARE [clean, trim, wash] AND HALF BROIL OR FRY THEM;
THEREUPON SHRED THEM [in good-sized] PIECES: NEXT PREPARE OYSTERS; PUT
IN A MORTAR 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND CRUSH. ADD A
SMALL GLASS OF BROTH, ONE OF WINE TO IT; PUT IN A SAUCE PAN 3 OUNCES
OF OIL AND THE [shelled] OYSTERS AND LET THEM POACH WITH WINE SAUCE.
WHEN THEY ARE DONE, OIL A DISH ON WHICH PLACE THE ABOVE MENTIONED FISH
PIECES AND STEWED OYSTERS, HEAT AGAIN, AND WHEN HOT, BREAK 40 [2] EGGS
[whip them] AND POUR THEM OVER THE OYSTERS, SO THAT THEY CONGEAL.
SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [3].
[1] _dentex_--"tooth-fish"; _aurata_--"gilt"--dory, red
snapper; _mugilis_--Sea Mullet, according to some.
[2] G.-V. _ova XI_--11 eggs. Tac. _ova Xl_, which may be
read XL--forty.
[3] This dish may be allowed to congeal slowly; if done
quickly it may become a dish of scrambled eggs with fish
and oysters.
[158] SEA BASS, OR BARRACUDA
_PATINA DE LUPO_ [1]
GRIND PEPPER, CUMIN, PARSLEY, RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE
AND DROPS OF OIL [2].
[1] G.-V. _p. de pisce lupo_--wolf, because of its
voracity; a sea fish, sea pike, or sea bass; perhaps
akin to our barracuda, wolfish both in appearance and
character. Sch. _Perca labrax_ Lin.
[2] The cleaned fish is cut into convenient portions or
fillets, placed in an oiled pan, the ingredients spread
over; it is either poached in the oven or cooked under
the open fire.
Schuch here inserts his {Rx} Nos. 153 to 166 which more
properly belong among the Excerpta of Vinidarius and
which are found at the end Book X by Apicius.
[159] A DISH OF SORB-APPLE, HOT OR COLD
_PATINA DE SORBIS CALIDA ET FRIGIDA_
TAKE MEDLARS, CLEAN THEM; CRUSH THEM IN THE MORTAR AND STRAIN THROUGH
COLANDER. 4 COOKED [calf's or pork] BRAINS, SKINNED AND FREED FROM
STRINGY PARTS, PUT IN THE MORTAR WITH 8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, DILUTE
WITH STOCK AND CRUSH, ADDING THE MEDLAR PULP AND COMBINE ALL; NOW
BREAK 8 EGGS AND ADD A SMALL GLASS OF BROTH. OIL A CLEAN PAN AND PLACE
IT IN THE HOT BATH OR IN THE HOT ASHES; AFTER YOU HAVE FILLED IT WITH
THE PREPARATION, MAKE SURE THAT THE PAN GETS ENOUGH HEAT FROM BELOW;
LET IT CONGEAL, AND WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE FINE PEPPER AND
SERVE.
Sch. {Rx} No. 166.
[160] A DISH OF PEACHES [1]
_PATINA DE PERSICIS_
CLEAN HARD-SKINNED PEACHES AND SLICE, STEW THEM; ARRANGE IN A DISH,
SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE OIL AND SERVE WITH CUMIN-FLAVORED WINE [2].
[1] Tor. is not sure whether this is a Persian fish or
peaches--_persica_.
[2] Dann. Pepper, for which there is no authority.
Sch. {Rx} No. 167.
[161] A DISH OF PEARS
_PATINA DE PIRIS_
A DISH OF PEARS IS MADE THIS WAY: [1] STEW THE PEARS, CLEAN OUT THE
CENTER [remove core and seeds] CRUSH THEM WITH PEPPER, CUMIN, HONEY,
RAISIN WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL; MIX WITH EGGS, MAKE A PIE
[custard] OF THIS, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
Sch. {Rx} No. 168.
[162] A DISH OF SEA-NETTLES
_PATINA DE URTICA_ [1]
A DISH OF SEA-NETTLES, EITHER HOT OR COLD, IS MADE THUS: [2] TAKE
SEA-NETTLES, WASH AND DRAIN THEM ON THE COLANDER, DRY ON THE TABLE AND
CHOP FINE. CRUSH 10 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD 2
SMALL GLASSES OF BROTH AND 6 OUNCES OF OIL. HEAT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN
AND WHEN COOKED TAKE IT OUT AND ALLOW TO COOL OFF. NEXT OIL A CLEAN
PAN, BREAK 8 EGGS AND BEAT THEM; COMBINE THESE WITH THE ABOVE
PREPARATIONS, PLACE THE PAN ON HOT ASHES TO GIVE IT HEAT FROM BELOW,
WHEN DONE [congealed] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _p. urticarum calida et frigida_.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[163] A DISH OF QUINCES
_PATINA DE CYDONIIS_ [1]
A DISH OF QUINCES IS MADE AS FOLLOWS: [2] QUINCES ARE COOKED WITH
LEEKS, HONEY AND BROTH, USING HOT OIL, OR THEY ARE STEWED IN HONEY
[3].
[1] G.-V. _p. de Cydoneis_.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] This latter method would appeal to our modern notion
of preparing fruits of this sort; we use sugar syrup to
cook them in and flavor with various spices, adding
perhaps a little wine or brandy.
III
OF FINELY CHOPPED, MINCED MEATS
_DE MINUT ALIBUS_ [1]
[164] A MINCE OF SEA FOOD
_MINUTAL MARINUM_
PLACE THE FISH IN SAUCE PAN, ADD BROTH OIL AND WINE [and poach it].
ALSO FINELY CHOP LEEK HEADS [the white part only of leeks] AND [fresh]
CORIANDER. [When cool, mince the fish fine] FORM IT INTO SMALL CAKES
[2] ADDING CAPERS [3] AND SEA-NETTLES WELL CLEANED. THESE FISH CAKES
COOK IN A LIQUOR OF PEPPER, LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, CRUSHED, DILUTED WITH
BROTH AND THE ABOVE FISH LIQUOR WHICH SKIM WELL, BIND [with roux or
eggs] STIR [strain] OVER THE CAKES, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _minutal de piscibus vel Isiciis_.
[2] Tac. G.-V. _isiciola ... minuta_--resembling our
modern _quenelles de poisson_--tiny fish dumplings.
[3] Tac. _cum caparis_; Tor. _c. capparibus_; Vat. Ms.
_concarpis_; List. G.-V. _concerpis_.
[165] TARENTINE MINUTAL
_MINUTAL TARENTINUM_ [1]
FINELY CHOP THE WHITE PART OF LEEKS AND PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL
[fry lightly] AND BROTH; NEXT ADD SMALL SAUSAGE TO BE COOKED LIKEWISE.
TO HAVE A GOOD TARENTINE DISH, THEY MUST BE TENDER. THE MAKING OF
THESE SAUSAGE WILL BE FOUND AMONG THE ISICIA [Nos. 60-66] [2]. ALSO
MAKE A SAUCE IN THE FOLLOWING MANNER: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND
ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD OF THE ABOVE [sausage] GRAVY, WINE,
RAISIN WINE; PUT IN A SAUCE PAN TO BE HEATED, WHEN BOILING, SKIM
CAREFULLY, BIND, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _Terentinum_, for which there is no reason.
Tarentum, town of lower Italy, now Taranto, celebrated
for its wine and luxurious living.
[2] Such references to other parts of the book are very
infrequent.
[166] APICIAN MINUTAL
_MINUTAL APICIANUM_
THE APICIAN MINUTAL IS MADE AS FOLLOWS: [1] OIL, BROTH WINE, LEEK
HEADS, MINT, SMALL FISH, SMALL TIDBITS [2] COCK'S FRIES OR CAPON'S
KIDNEYS [3] AND PORK SWEETBREADS; ALL OF THESE ARE COOKED TOGETHER [4]
NOW CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, OR SEEDS, MOISTENED WITH
BROTH; ADD A LITTLE HONEY, AND OF THE OWN LIQUOR [5] OF THE ABOVE
MORSELS, WINE AND HONEY TO TASTE; BRING THIS TO A BOILING POINT SKIM,
BIND, STIR WELL [strain, pour over the morsels] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER
AND SERVE [6].
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[2] _isitia_--_quenelles_, dumplings of some kind,
mostly fine forcemeats.
[3] _testiculi caponum_; the capon has no _testiculi_,
these organs having been removed by an operation when
the cock is young. This operation is said to have been
first performed by a Roman surgeon with the intention of
beating the _Lex Fannia_, or Fannian law, sponsored by a
fanatic named Fannius. It prohibited among other
restrictions the serving of any fowl at any time or
repast except a hen, and this hen was not to be
fattened. Note the cunning of the law: The useful hen
and her unlaid eggs could be sacrificed while the
unproductive rooster was allowed to thrive to no
purpose, immune from the butcher's block. This set the
shrewd surgeon to thinking; he transformed a rooster
into a capon by his surgical trick. The emasculated bird
grew fat without his owner committing any infraction of
the Roman law against fattening chickens. Of course the
capon, being neither hen nor rooster, was perfectly safe
to eat, for he was within the law. Thus he became a huge
success as an ancient "bootleg" chicken.
[4] These integral parts must be prepared and poached
separately and merely heated together before the final
service.
[5] Again the Plautian colloquialism _ius de suo sibi_.
[6] This dish is worthy of Apicius. It is akin to our
_Ragoût Financière_, and could pass for _Vol-au-vent à
la Financière_ if it were served in a large fluffy crust
of puff paste.
[167] MINUTAL À LA MATIUS [1]
_MINUTAL MATIANUM_
PUT IN A SAUCE PAN OIL, BROTH FINELY CHOPPED LEEKS, CORIANDER, SMALL
TID-BITS, COOKED PORK SHOULDER, CUT INTO LONG STRIPS INCLUDING THE
SKIN, HAVE EVERYTHING EQUALLY HALF DONE. ADD MATIAN APPLES [2]
CLEANED, THE CORE REMOVED, SLICED LENGTHWISE AND COOK THEM TOGETHER:
MEANWHILE CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, GREEN CORIANDER, OR SEEDS, MINT, LASER
ROOT, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, HONEY AND BROTH AND A LITTLE REDUCED
MUST, ADD TO THIS THE BROTH OF THE ABOVE MORSELS, VINEGAR TO TASTE,
BOIL, SKIM, BIND [strain over the morsels] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND
SERVE.
[1] Named for Matius, ancient author, or because of the
Matian apples used in this dish, also named for the same
man. Plinius, Nat. Hist. lib. XV, Cap. 14-15, Columella,
De re Rustica, lib. XII, Cap. XLIIII.
This is not the first instance where fruits or
vegetables were named for famous men. Beets, a certain
kind of them were named for Varro, writer on
agriculture. Matius, according to Varro, wrote a book on
waiters, cooks, cellar men and food service in general,
of which there is no trace today. It was already lost
during Varro's days.
[2] Cf. note 1, above. This illustrates the age-old
connection of pork and apples.
[168] SWEET MINUTAL
_MINUTAL DULCE_ [1]
IN A SAUCE PAN PUT TOGETHER OIL, BROTH, COCTURA [2] FINELY CUT LEEK
HEADS AND GREEN CORIANDER, COOKED PORK SHOULDER, SMALL TID-BITS. WHILE
THIS IS BEING COOKED, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER OR [its] SEEDS,
GREEN RUE, LASER ROOT, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND THE
GRAVY OF THE ABOVE MORSELS; ADD VINEGAR TO TASTE: WHEN THIS [sauce] IS
COOKED, HOLLOW OUT CITRON SQUASH [3] CUT IN DICE, BOIL AND PLACE THEM
TOGETHER WITH THE REST IN THE DISH, SKIM, BIND [strain] THE SAUCE
[pour it over the morsels] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] G.-V. _m. ex citriis_.
[2] At this late point Apicius commences to use the term
_coctura_ which does not designate any particular
ingredient but rather stands for a certain process of
cookery, depending upon the ingredients used in the
dish. We would here interpret it as the frying of the
leeks in oil, etc. In another instance _coctura_ may
mean our modern _réduction_.
[3] The fruit to be used here has not been
satisfactorily identified. The texts have _citrium_ and
_citrum_--a sweet squash or cucumber--perhaps even a
melon, but not the citron, the _mala citrea_ as read by
List. This specimen is hard to identify because of the
many varieties in the cucumber, squash and the citrus
families. _Citrus_, as a matter of fact, is but a
corruption of _cedrus_, the cedar tree.
We are not sure whether this fruit is to be stuffed with
the ragout and then baked, as is often the custom to do
with such shells; the texts prescribes distinctly to
hollow out the fruit.
The title, implying a "sweet dish" is obviously wrong.
It may be remarked here that Apicius makes no mention of
that marvelous citrus fruit, the lemon, nor of the
orange, both of which are indispensable to modern
cookery.
[169] MINUTAL OF FRUIT
_MINUTAL EX PRÆCOQUIS_
IN A SAUCE PAN PUT OIL, BROTH AND WINE, FINELY CUT SHALLOTS, DICED
COOKED PORK SHOULDER. WHEN THIS IS COOKED, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, DRY
MINT, DILL, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE [and] A LITTLE
VINEGAR, SOME OF THE GRAVY OF THE ABOVE MORSELS, ADD FRUITS THE SEEDS
OF WHICH HAVE BEEN TAKEN OUT, LET BOIL, WHEN THOROUGHLY COOKED, SKIM,
BIND, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [1].
[1] This, rather than {Rx} No. 168, deserves the title,
Sweet Minutal, for it is practically the same, with the
addition of the fruit.
[170] MINUTAL OF HARE'S LIVERS
_MINUTAL LEPORINUM_
THE WAY TO MAKE A MINUTAL OF HARE'S GIBLETS MAY BE FOUND AMONG THE
HARE RECIPES [1].
[170a] IN A SAUCE PAN PUT OIL, BROTH AND WINE, FINELY CUT SHALLOTS,
DICED COOKED PORK SHOULDER. WHEN THIS IS COOKED, CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN,
DRY MINT, DILL, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE [and] A LITTLE
VINEGAR, SOME OF THE GRAVY OF THE ABOVE MORSELS, ADD SEEDLESS FRUITS,
LET BOIL, WHEN THOROUGHLY COOKED, SKIM, BIND, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND
SERVE.
[1] {Rx} No. 386, Book VIII is one of these recipes.
This is one of the few instances where the ancient
original makes any reference to any other part of the
Apicius book.* After this bare reference, the original
proceeds to repeat the text of the preceding formula
verbatim.
* Cf. {Rx} No. 165.
Brandt suggests a new title for [170a] ANOTHER SWEET
MINUTAL.
The G.-V. version differs but little from {Rx} No. 169.
[171] RED APPLE MINUTAL
_MINUTAL EX ROSIS_ [1]
MAKE THIS THE SAME WAY AS DESCRIBED IN THE FOREGOING, ONLY ADD MORE
RAISIN WINE.
[1] List. Roses; Tor. _Rosatium_; this term, medieval
Latin, does not exist in the ancient language.
Sch. _mala rosea_--rosy or red apple, most likely to be
the correct interpretation. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 136 and 167.
The above title has led to the belief that the ancients
made pies, etc., of roses, an idea that was much
ridiculed in England after the publication of Lister's
work in 1705.
We concur with Schuch's interpretation that rosy apples
were used, remembering, however, that the fruit of the
rose tree, the hip, dog-briar, eglantine is also made
into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is
therefore entirely possible that this recipe calls for
the fruit of the rose tree.
IV
GRUELS
_TISANAM VEL SUCUM_
[172] BARLEY BROTH, PAP, PORRIDGE, GRUEL
_TISANA SIVE CREMORE_ [1]
CRUSH BARLEY, SOAKED THE DAY BEFORE, WELL WASHED, PLACE ON THE FIRE
TO BE COOKED [in a double boiler] WHEN HOT ADD ENOUGH OIL, A BUNCH OF
DILL, DRY ONION, SATURY AND COLOCASIUM [2] TO BE COOKED TOGETHER
BECAUSE FOR THE BETTER JUICE, ADD GREEN CORIANDER AND A LITTLE SALT;
BRING IT TO A BOILING POINT. WHEN DONE TAKE OUT THE BUNCH [of dill]
AND TRANSFER THE BARLEY INTO ANOTHER KETTLE TO AVOID STICKING TO THE
BOTTOM AND BURNING, MAKE IT LIQUID [by addition of water, broth, milk]
STRAIN INTO A POT, COVERING THE TOPS OF THE COLOCASIA. NEXT CRUSH
PEPPER, LOVAGE, A LITTLE DRY FLEA-BANE, CUMIN AND SYLPHIUM [3] STIR IT
WELL AND ADD VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND BROTH; PUT IT BACK INTO THE
POT, THE REMAINING COLOCASIA FINISH ON A GENTLE FIRE [4].
[1] Tor. _ptisana siue Cremore_.
[2] G.-V. _Col{oe}fium_; Tor. _col{oe}sium_ and
_colesium_ (the different readings perhaps on account of
the similarity of the "long" s with the f). Tor. spells
this word differently every time he is confronted with
it. Tac., Lan. _coledium_--unidentified. List.
_colocasium_, which see in notes to {Rx} Nos. 74, 200,
216, 244, and 322, also Sch. p. 95.
[3] List. _sil frictum_; Tor. _silphium f._
[4] Tor. continuing without interruption. This formula
is reported in {Rx} No. 200.
[173] ANOTHER TISANA
_TISANA TARICHA_ [1]
THE CEREAL [2] IS SOAKED; CHICKPEAS, LENTILS AND PEAS ARE CRUSHED AND
BOILED WITH IT; WHEN WELL COOKED, ADD PLENTY OF OIL. NOW CUT GREEN
HERBS, LEEKS, CORIANDER, DILL, FENNEL, BEETS, MALLOWS, CABBAGE
STRUNKS, ALL SOFT AND GREEN AND FINELY CUT, AND PUT IN A POT. THE
CABBAGE COOK [separately. Also] CRUSH FENNEL SEED, ORIGANY, SYLPHIUM
AND LOVAGE, AND WHEN CRUSHED, ADD BROTH TO TASTE, POUR THIS OVER THE
PORRIDGE, STIR IT TOGETHER AND USE SOME FINELY CHOPPED CABBAGE STEMS
TO SPRINKLE ON TOP [2].
[1] Variants: _barrica_, _farrica_; List. _legendum,
puto, Taricam; id. est Salsam_. Cf. {Rx} 144, 149,
426-8. Lan., Tor., G.-V. _barricam_, not identified.
Sch. _farrica_--corn spelt; probably not far from the
mark. We would venture to suggest that our "farina" is
the thing here used, or any ordinary corn meal.
[2] This formula is repeated in {Rx} No. 201.
V
HORS D'{OE}UVRES, APPETIZERS, RELISHES
_GUSTUM_
[174] "MOVEABLE" APPETIZERS
_GUSTUM VERSATILE_
THE MOVEABLE [1] APPETIZERS ARE THUS MADE: [2] SMALL WHITE BEETS,
MATURE LEEKS, CELERY ROOTS [3] STEWED COCKLES [4] GINGER [5] CHICKEN
GIBLETS, SMALL FOWL [6] SMALL MORSELS COOKED IN THEIR OWN LIQUOR [7].
OIL A PAN, LINE IT WITH MALLOW LEAVES AND A COMPOSITION OF DIFFERENT
VEGETABLES, AND, IF YOU HAVE ROOM ENOUGH, BULBS, DAMASCUS PLUMS,
SNAILS, TID-BITS [8] SHORT LUCANIAN SAUSAGE SLICED; ADD BROTH, OIL,
WINE, VINEGAR PUT ON THE FIRE TO HEAT AND SO COOK THEM. MEANWHILE
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GINGER, A LITTLE TARRAGON, MOISTEN IT AND LET IT
COOK. BREAK SEVERAL EGGS IN A DISH, USE THE REMAINING LIQUOR IN THE
MORTAR TO MIX IT WITH THE SAUCE IN THE DISH AND TO BIND IT. WHEN THIS
IS DONE, MAKE A WINE SAUCE FOR IT AS FOLLOWS: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE,
MOISTENED WITH BROTH, RAISIN WINE TO TASTE; IN A SMALL SAUCE PAN PUT A
LITTLE OIL [with the other ingredients] HEAT, AND BIND WITH ROUX WHEN
HOT. NOW [unmould] UPSET THE DISH ON A PLATTER, REMOVE THE MALLOW
LEAVES, POUR OVER THE WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [9].
[1] Moveable, either because it is one show piece that
is carried from one guest to another, or, as here
indicated, a dish that is to be unmoulded or turned out
of its mould or pan before service.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Celery roots, i.e. the thick bulbs. G.-V. _apios,
bulbos_--celery, onions; note the comma after _apios_.
[4] Periwinkles, also snails.
[5] Tac., Lan. _gingibera_; Tor. _zinziber_; Vat. Ms.
_gibera_; G.-V. _Gigeria_; Hum. _id._--giblets. Wanting
in List.
[6] List. _avicellas_; Vat. Ms. _aucellare_ and
_scellas_; Tac., Lan. _id._; Tor. _pullorum
axillas_--chicken wings (?); G.-V. _ascellas_.
[7] _ex iure._
[8] _isitia_--quenelles of forcemeat, etc.
[9] An extremely complicated composition of varied
morsels, definite instructions lacking, however. It is
not clear whether the dish was served hot (in which case
the dish would not stand up long) or whether served
cold, jellyfied. Moreover, the title _gustum_--_hors
d'{oe}uvres_--is not consistent either with similar
creations by Apicius or with our own notions of such
dishes. This title may merely suggest that such a dish
was to be served at the beginning of a repast. This
recipe presents an instance of the difficulty to render
the text and its variants in a manner acceptable to our
modern palates.
We are of the opinion that the above recipe is a
contraction of two or more formulæ, each of which,
separately, might make acceptable hot appetizers.
[175] VEGETABLE RELISH [1]
_GUSTUM DE OLERIBUS_ [2]
FOR THIS VEGETABLE DISH BOIL BULBS [3] [in] BROTH, OIL, AND WINE; WHEN
DONE [add] LIVER OF SUCKLING PIG [4] CHICKEN LIVERS AND FEET AND SMALL
BIRDS [5] CUT IN HALVES, ALL TO BE COOKED WITH THE BULBS. WHEN DONE,
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE TO
SWEETEN IT. ADD OF THE OWN LIQUOR OF THE MORSELS, RETIRE THE ONIONS,
WHEN DONE [group the morsels together in the service dish] BIND [the
sauce] WITH ROUX IN THE LAST MOMENT [strain over the morsels] AND
SERVE.
[1] An entremet of fowl and livers.
[2] a misnomer, as vegetables play the least part in
this dish.
[3] Onions, etc.
[4] _jecinora porcelli_; Sch. _iscinera porcellum_.
[5] Tor. _axillas_ and _scellas_; see note 6 to {Rx}
174.
[176] STUFFED PUMPKIN FRITTERS
_GUSTUM DE CUCURBITIS FARSILIBUS_
A DISH OF STUFFED PUMPKIN [1] IS MADE THUS: [2] PEEL AND CUT THE
PUMPKIN LENGTHWISE INTO OBLONG PIECES WHICH HOLLOW OUT AND PUT IN A
COOL PLACE. THE DRESSING FOR THE SAME MAKE IN THIS WAY: CRUSH PEPPER,
LOVAGE AND ORIGANY, MOISTENED WITH BROTH; MINCE COOKED BRAINS AND BEAT
RAW EGGS AND MIX ALL TOGETHER TO FORM A PASTE; ADD BROTH AS TASTE
REQUIRES. STUFF THE ABOVE PREPARED PIECES OF PUMPKIN THAT HAVE NOT
BEEN FULLY COOKED WITH THE DRESSING; FIT TWO PIECES TOGETHER AND CLOSE
THEM TIGHT [holding them by means of strings or skewers]. [Now poach
them and] TAKE THE COOKED ONES OUT AND FRY THEM [3]. [The proper] WINE
SAUCE [for this dish] MAKE THUS: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE MOISTENED WITH
WINE, RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, A LITTLE OIL, PLACE IN PAN TO BE COOKED;
WHEN DONE BIND WITH ROUX. COVER THE FRIED PUMPKIN WITH THIS SAUCE,
SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4].
[1] Dann. cucumbers, for which there is no authority.
Cucumbers lend themselves equally well for a dish of
this kind; they are often stuffed with a forcemeat of
finely minced meats, mushrooms, eggs, breadcrumbs, or
simply with raw sausage meat, cooked as above, and
served as a garnish with _entrées_.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] Presumably in deep fat or oil, a procedure which
would require previous breading in bread crumbs or
enveloping in frying batter.
[4] Whether you like pumpkin and brains or not--Apicius
in this dish reveals himself as the consummate master of
his art that he really is--a cook for cooks; Moreover,
the lucidity of his diction in this instance is equally
remarkable. It stands out in striking contrast to his
many other formulæ which are so obscured. Many of them
perhaps were precepts of likewise striking originality
as this one just cited.
[177] COMPÔTE OF EARLY FRUIT
_GUSTUM DE PRÆCOQUIS_
CLEAN HARD-SKINNED EARLY FRUITS [1] REMOVE THE SEEDS AND KEEP THEM
COLD IN A PAN. CRUSH PEPPER [2] DRY MINT, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, ADDING
HONEY, RAISIN WINE, WINE AND VINEGAR; POUR THIS OVER THE FRUIT IN THE
PAN, ADDING A LITTLE OIL. STEW SLOWLY ON A WEAK FIRE, THICKEN [the
juice] WITH ROUX [rice flour or other starch diluted with water]
SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE [3].
[1] Lister praises the early green fruit and the use
thereof, and, as a physician, recommends imitation of
the above as follows: _In aliis plurimis locis hujus
fructus mentio fit; ususque mirabilis fuit; & certe
propter salubritatem, nostram imitationem meretur._
[2] We do not like the "pepper" in this connection and
we venture to suggest that in this case the term
probably stands for some other kind of aromatic seed
less pungent than the grain known to us as "pepper" and
one more acceptable to the fine flavor of fruit, namely
pimiento, allspice for instance, or clove, or nutmeg, or
a mixture of these. "Pepper" formerly was a generic term
for all of these spices but was gradually confined to
the grain pepper of black and white varieties.
[3] We concur with Lister's idea of the use of early
fruits. The use of early and unripe fruit for this and
similar purposes is excellent. The above formula is a
good example of our own "spiced" peaches, pears, etc.,
usually taken as a relish. Of course, we use sugar
instead of honey for sweetening, and brandy instead of
wine; but the underlying principles are alike.
This is a good illustration of and speaks well for the
economy and the ingenuity of the ancients.
END OF BOOK IV
_EXPLICIT APICII PANDECTER, LIBER QUARTUS_ [Tac.]
{Illustration: ROUND TABLE
Claw-footed bronze legs on triangular base, consisting of three molded
cylindrical supports, connected by cross-bars. Near the top the legs
take on a greyhound design, with a three-armed brace connecting them.
The round top is of marble. Pompeii. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 78613; Field
M., 24281.}
APICIUS